HOMEBREW Digest #285 Tue 24 October 1989
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Some (hopefully) simple questions (Mike Kahn)
Oatmeal Stout (Jennifer_Glass)
Re: [grolsch bottles & explosions] (Dr. T. Andrews)
The ``Golden Beer'' State: Part 1: Northern California (David L. Kensiski )
Trub Management (Martin A. Lodahl)
Death, Brewing, and Taxes ("I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?")
Hot and Cold Breaks ("I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?")
Hot and Cold Breaks ("I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?")
Achtung: Braumeistern! (Doug Roberts at Los Alamos National Laboratory)
Stainless Steel Pots (bryan)
orange (Alan Duester)
Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmr at hplabs.hp.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 08:48:27 PDT
From: Mike Kahn <mike at stat.washington.edu>
Subject: Some (hopefully) simple questions
Although we have been brewing for a few years now, my friends and I
have what are probably rather basic questons. I haven't seen any
discussion of them lately, and what better place to find the answers.
One, what is the difference between a bitter and a pale ale? Is it in
the "hop structure", or is it the type of adjunct (crystal malt vs.
pale malt), or is it some combination of these?
Two, what is malt extract? For example, is light, unhopped malt extract
simply concentrated light, dry malt? If not, what is different? If so,
is there some approximate conversion? (Say, 3.3# of extract is approx.
???# of dry malt.)
Three, what exactly is Irish Moss and what is its purpose?
Four, we are preparing to make a(some) seasonal ale(s) and wonder if
anyone has suggestions for adding "seasonal" spices (e.g. cinammon,
cardamon, nutmeg.) For anyone who had Grant's Spiced Ale of a couple of
years ago, that is the prototype. We aren't looking for anything terribly
"spiced", instead we want a hint of "seasonality".
Thanks a lot for any and all discussion.
MK
mike at brothers.stat.washington.edu
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 20 Oct 89 11:28:00 EDT
From: Jennifer_Glass at ub.cc.umich.edu
Subject: Oatmeal Stout
Thanks for putting us on the mailing list. I have a specific question.
My fellow brewers and I would like to make an oatmeal stout, but we
haven't been able to find a recipe, or suggestions for adding oatmeal
the wort (how much, when to add during the boil, etc..) Any
suggestions would be welcomed. Thanks, Jennifer
Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 22 Oct 89 7:39:58 EDT
From: Dr. T. Andrews <ki4pv!tanner at uunet.UU.NET>
Subject: Re: [grolsch bottles & explosions]
) ... Grolsch bottles. The rubber gaskets allow excess pressure
) to leak out.
It has been my experience that the rubber gaskets (esp. the
replacements, which are thicker than the originals) will in
fact do a good job of holding the pressure. When too much
pressure is held, the bottles explode. I've cleaned up after
several.
--
...!bikini.cis.ufl.edu!ki4pv!tanner ...!bpa!cdin-1!ki4pv!tanner
or... {allegra attctc gatech!uflorida uunet!cdin-1}!ki4pv!tanner
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 14:12:29 PDT
From: david%cygnus. at Sun.COM (David L. Kensiski )
Subject: The ``Golden Beer'' State: Part 1: Northern California
The ``Golden Beer'' State
A Guide To California's Beer Hot Spots
Northern California
Anderson
H Beverage Company
PO Box 839
(916) 347-5475
Arcata
B Humboldt
856 10th Street, 95521
(707) 826-BREW
S Arcata Co-Op
811 I Street
Boonville
B Anderson Valley
14081 Highway 128, 95415
(707) 895-BEER
Calistoga
B Calistoga Inn
1250 Lincoln Avenue, 94515
(707) 942-4101
P,R Lord Darby Arms
1923 Lake Street
Chico
M Saxton
(916) 893-3520
B Sherwood
319 Main Street, 95928
opening '89
M Sierra Nevada
(916) 893-3520
brewpub open late '89
S Mangrove Bottle Shop
1348 Mangrove (?)
H Home Brew Shop
331 Main Street
Davis
B Back Alley
139 G Street
(916) 756-1075
S Valley Wine Company
416 G Street
P,R Pistachios
305 First Street
Eureka
B Lost Coast
617 4th Street
opening late '89
Fairfield
M Anheuser-Busch
(707) 429-2000
Fair Oaks
R Blue Iris Cafe
10118 Fair Oaks Blvd
Fort Bragg
B North Coast
444 North Main Street, 95437
(707) 964-2739
Hopland
B Mendocino
13351 Highway 101, 95449
(707) 744-1015
H MCC
707 Highway 175
Lakeport
R,S Main Street Liquors
150 Main Street
Napa
B Willett's
902 Main Street, 94559
(707) 258-BEER
Nevada City
M Nevada City
(916) 265-2446
R Northridge Inn
19773 Nevada Street
Sacramento
B Hogshead
114 J Street, 95814
(916) 443-BREW
B Rubicon
2004 Capitol Avenue, 95814
(916) 448-7032
S Corti Brothers
5770 Freeport Blvd, #66
P Fox & Goose
1001 R Street
R Mountain Mikes Pizza
2033 Arden Way
H R&R Home Fermentation Supplies
8385 Jackson Road
Santa Rosa
B Kelmers
458 B Street, 94501
(707) 544-4677
P Wild Hare Pub
3082 Marlow
opening '89
P Ma Stokels
(address unreadable)
P English Rose
2074 Armory Drive
H Great Fermentations of Santa Rosa
840 Piner Road, #14
Sonoma
S Wine Exchange of Sonoma
452 First Street, East
Truckee
B Pizza Junction
11401 Donner Pass Road, 96734
(916) 587-7411
Woodland
B Dead Cat Alley
666 Dead Cat Alley, 95695
(916) 661-1521
Legend
M Microbrewery or Brewery
B Brewpub or Brewstaurant
C Contract Brewery
P Pub
R Restaurant or Deli
S Retail Sotre
H Homebrew Shop
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 15:25:33 PDT
From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!mal at hplabs.HP.COM>
Subject: Trub Management
The recent discussion of sediment in the primary fermentor was of
great interest to me, as I've struggled quite a bit over the process
between the end of the boil and the beginning of fermentation. Over
a succession of batches, I've finally developed a technique that
results in the fermentor being filled with cool, clear wort, leaving
the hot & cold breaks behind. To wit:
1. Force-cool the wort in the boiler. My present boiler
isn't big enough for all-grain brewing, and since
my partial-mash process produces 3.5 to 4 gallons
of concentrated wort, I dilute & chill simultaneously,
with ice. I invariably get a fabulous cold break.
2. Transfer the cool wort to my (sanitized) lauter tun.
As I was struggling through an attempt to siphon
from the boiler to the fermentor one day, my
eight-year-old asked, "why don't you just use
your lauter tun?" My jaw dropped. Since the
wort is already cool, oxidation is not a problem.
After allowing a few moments for the hops to settle,
I open the tap and let the wort drain BACK INTO
THE BOILER, until the stream runs clear and
sediment-free. I then turn off the tap, move
the lauter tun's output hose from the boiler
to the carboy, turn the tap back on (a "set mash"
caused by interrupting the flow is really not a
problem with hops), and pour the cloudy wort
back through the newly-established hops filter.
About the only part of this process I really expect to change when I
go to all-grain is to use an immersion chiller instead of ice.
That lauter tun is the single most useful piece of equipment I've
yet acquired. In addition to sparging (both grain & hops), I also
use it for racking (I have but one single carboy I use for primary &
secondary, so I rack into the tun, wash the carboy, then open
the tap and drain it back to the carboy) and bottling. I wouldn't
dream of going back to the colander. I made mine following Miller's
suggestions in CHoHB, fitting a drum tap to the base of a 7-gallon
plastic wastebasket, and fashioning a false bottom from the bottom
1.5" of a plastic soap pail, with .25" holes drilled on .5" centers.
For use, I line it with a jelly-maker's mesh straining bag.
If anyone has a better idea, I'd love to hear it!
- Martin
= Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff =
= pacbell!pbmoss!mal -or- mal at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM 916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) =
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 18:17 CDT
From: "I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?"
Subject: Death, Brewing, and Taxes
Brewers all:
You've all heard, I'm sure, that the U.S. Government allows one to brew
100 gallons per year for a single-person household, or 200 gallons per year for
a double-person household. (This adds up to roughly 1066 bottles of beer
and twice that for a two person household).
I think the law also says something about the beer being for personal
consumption only (in other words, don't sell it. I think you're allowed
to give it away).
Something I recently heard, and wondered if anyone knew for certain, was
that you are supposed to file an tax form and pay a nominal fee for each
batch. Anyone know for sure? What are the specifics?
- Ted
---
"It is more difficult to kill a fly with a sledgehammer than to do it with
a rolled knighthood scroll." -- ]ke Eldberg
Patrick T. Garvin ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP
in the Society: Padraig Cosfhota o Ulad / Barony of Namron, Ansteorra
Disclaimer: Fragile. Contents inflammable. Do not use near open flame.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 18:44 CDT
From: "I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?"
Subject: Hot and Cold Breaks
Could someone post an explanation of what hot and cold breaks are?
I've made four batches of beer now, and know what to do. Now I'd like to
know a bit of the why so that the how will be better too.
To summarise:
My first batch was an Irish Stout. I used a stout kit, added three pounds
of corn sugar, and used 1 oz of Williamette hops to finish. I soaked
the bottles in too strong a chlorine solution, which resulted in random
beer bottles. Some of the stout was too bitter, some too sweet, and some
just right. Each of the bottles too a different amount of time to age.
I had some other symptoms similar to what has been described in this
digest before WRT too much chlorine. Basically, it inhibited the yeast.
Still, it wasn't too bad. Some of the bottles did ok.
My second batch was a ginger-honey beer, and that received really rave
reviews. It was an all-extract brew. I only have twelve bottles of it left.
I've been told that it will be really good in another couple of months, so
I've hidden them and will try them around Christmas.
(I used one pound of honey.) I forgot to take hydrometer readings on
this one (actually, I didn't have the time and didn't want to go to the
bother of risking contamination.) so I don't know it's percentage of
alcohol. I'd say about 6-9% by volume (Oklahoma only sells 3.2% by
volume in the grocery store). I drank a pint and a half of it at one
sitting and was somewhat buzzed and confused, so I tend to think it's
closer to 9% than 6%. I used the rest of the Williamette hops for
finishing. (1 1/2 oz or so). This was the batch where my
friend who was going to get grated ginger forgot to do so, and left
for out of town, so I rushed to my house (naturally, I had started the
batch before I checked for ginger) and got ground ginger and thunked in an
undetermined amount. When I bottled, the beer looked reddish brown
(rather like river water around here 8)).
The third batch is a spruce beer. Also an all-extract brew, I added some
spruce extract, added 3 pounds of dry dark malt extract, and used 2 oz.
Hallertauer hops in the boil. Added a tsp of Irish moss in the last 15
minutes. This batch really blew off lots of >gunk!<
(I suspect because I had lost my hops bag, so there were hop fragments,
but I really don't know) in the primary fermentation. Had a really
difficult time cleaning out the blowout hose (almost time to retire it).
I bottled it recently.
The fourth batch is an experiment based on the rave reviews and some
suggestions that I've received (namely, add a bit more fermentables).
It consists of a four pound can of Edme Traditional Ale kit, John Bull
Hopped Dark Extract, 2 oz. ginger, 1 1/2 pound honey, peels of four orange
peels (in the boil, due to a mixup in communications. This is one I had
my friend do because of time constraints), about 2 pounds corn sugar, and
2 oz. Hallertauer hops in the boil. I had meant to add the orange peels
for orange flavor, but on second thought, I think their bitter quality will
help offset the sweetness of the other ingredients. I also used a tsp of
Irish moss. Unfortunately, I had proofed the yeast with water that was
too hot, so I was greeted with no activity the next morning. I went to
my house, got a spare Edme yeast packet, microwaved a half cup of
water/sugar solution, cooled it down to 90 degrees, added the yeast and
then added that through the neck of the carboy. This morning, I notice
that fermentation has started, albeit a bit slowly (perhaps its the cool
weather).
- Ted
---
"It is more difficult to kill a fly with a sledgehammer than to do it with
a rolled knighthood scroll." -- ]ke Eldberg
Patrick T. Garvin ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP
in the Society: Padraig Cosfhota o Ulad / Barony of Namron, Ansteorra
Disclaimer: Fragile. Contents inflammable. Do not use near open flame.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 18:44 CDT
From: "I have a memory like a...what's that thing you strain spaghetti with?"
Subject: Hot and Cold Breaks
Could someone post an explanation of what hot and cold breaks are?
I've made four batches of beer now, and know what to do. Now I'd like to
know a bit of the why so that the how will be better too.
To summarise:
My first batch was an Irish Stout. I used a stout kit, added three pounds
of corn sugar, and used 1 oz of Williamette hops to finish. I soaked
the bottles in too strong a chlorine solution, which resulted in random
beer bottles. Some of the stout was too bitter, some too sweet, and some
just right. Each of the bottles too a different amount of time to age.
I had some other symptoms similar to what has been described in this
digest before WRT too much chlorine. Basically, it inhibited the yeast.
Still, it wasn't too bad. Some of the bottles did ok.
My second batch was a ginger-honey beer, and that received really rave
reviews. It was an all-extract brew. I only have twelve bottles of it left.
I've been told that it will be really good in another couple of months, so
I've hidden them and will try them around Christmas.
(I used one pound of honey.) I forgot to take hydrometer readings on
this one (actually, I didn't have the time and didn't want to go to the
bother of risking contamination.) so I don't know it's percentage of
alcohol. I'd say about 6-9% by volume (Oklahoma only sells 3.2% by
volume in the grocery store). I drank a pint and a half of it at one
sitting and was somewhat buzzed and confused, so I tend to think it's
closer to 9% than 6%. I used the rest of the Williamette hops for
finishing. (1 1/2 oz or so). This was the batch where my
friend who was going to get grated ginger forgot to do so, and left
for out of town, so I rushed to my house (naturally, I had started the
batch before I checked for ginger) and got ground ginger and thunked in an
undetermined amount. When I bottled, the beer looked reddish brown
(rather like river water around here 8)).
The third batch is a spruce beer. Also an all-extract brew, I added some
spruce extract, added 3 pounds of dry dark malt extract, and used 2 oz.
Hallertauer hops in the boil. Added a tsp of Irish moss in the last 15
minutes. This batch really blew off lots of >gunk!<
(I suspect because I had lost my hops bag, so there were hop fragments,
but I really don't know) in the primary fermentation. Had a really
difficult time cleaning out the blowout hose (almost time to retire it).
I bottled it recently.
The fourth batch is an experiment based on the rave reviews and some
suggestions that I've received (namely, add a bit more fermentables).
It consists of a four pound can of Edme Traditional Ale kit, John Bull
Hopped Dark Extract, 2 oz. ginger, 1 1/2 pound honey, peels of four orange
peels (in the boil, due to a mixup in communications. This is one I had
my friend do because of time constraints), about 2 pounds corn sugar, and
2 oz. Hallertauer hops in the boil. I had meant to add the orange peels
for orange flavor, but on second thought, I think their bitter quality will
help offset the sweetness of the other ingredients. I also used a tsp of
Irish moss. Unfortunately, I had proofed the yeast with water that was
too hot, so I was greeted with no activity the next morning. I went to
my house, got a spare Edme yeast packet, microwaved a half cup of
water/sugar solution, cooled it down to 90 degrees, added the yeast and
then added that through the neck of the carboy. This morning, I notice
that fermentation has started, albeit a bit slowly (perhaps its the cool
weather).
- Ted
---
"It is more difficult to kill a fly with a sledgehammer than to do it with
a rolled knighthood scroll." -- ]ke Eldberg
Patrick T. Garvin ptgarvin at aardvark.ucs.uoknor.edu / ptgarvin at uokmax.UUCP
in the Society: Padraig Cosfhota o Ulad / Barony of Namron, Ansteorra
Disclaimer: Fragile. Contents inflammable. Do not use near open flame.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 23 Oct 89 22:18:59 MDT
From: roberts%studguppy at LANL.GOV (Doug Roberts at Los Alamos National Laboratory)
Subject: Achtung: Braumeistern!
Ich habe mir versprochen: Dass Ich von jetzt an nur das Reinheitsgebot
folge.
(Very Loosly Translated: I'm going to make the switch to brewing all grain
beers -- mashing, sparging, etc...)
Today I ordered ~30# of Klages malted barley, some Munich, some
roasted unmalted barley, and a sparger. I used the last of my extract
syrup on the *slavian beer this weekend, and then succumbed to a
long-suppressed desire to be a masher :-}.
The stuff will arrive in a couple of days from Great Fermentations of
Santa Rosa, at which time I intend to step-mash my way to ale Nirvana
(can't tell I've been sampling my wares, can you?)
BTW: has anyone tasted Anchor Steam's Christmas Ale yet? I had a
bottle this weekend, and it is wonderful. I think their magic
ingredient is roasted unmalted barley. It may just be necessary to try
a Christmas ale as the first all-grain recipe.
--Doug
================================================================
Douglas Roberts |
Los Alamos National Laboratory |When choosing between two evils,
Box 1663, MS F-602 |I always like to try the one
Los Alamos, New Mexico 87545 |I've never tried before.
(505)667-4569 |
dzzr at lanl.gov |
================================================================
Return to table of contents
Date: 18 Oct 89 12:59:29 PDT (Wed)
From: bryan at tekgen.bv.tek.com
Subject: Stainless Steel Pots
Full-Name:
Someone posted an inexpensive mail order source for stainless steel
posts a while back. I seem to have lost it now that I'm ready to buy
one. Would someone with back issues please help me out?
Thanks, Bryan Olson
bryan at tekgen.BV.TEK.COM
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 89 21:57:41 EDT
From: capnal at aqua.whoi.edu (Alan Duester)
Subject: orange
Full-Name:
Regarding orange for the honey lager, from Glenn Colon-Bonet and Mike
Bergman: If you're not too much of a purist, you might try looking for
"orange oil" at a health or natural food store, candy making supplies
store, or specialty spice shop. While I haven't tried brewing with it, I
use it in my orange chocolate cheesecake recipie. I would imagine that
the distillation process used to make the oil would result in a much
less contaminated product than messing with grated orange peel and the
natural yeasts.
========================================================================
Al Duester, Ocean Engineer, MS S201 # SPAN: 6308::capnal
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution # INTERNET: capnal at aqua.whoi.edu
Woods Hole, MA 02543 # GEnie: A.DUESTER
(508) 548-1400 x2474
(508) 457-2000 auto-receptionist for touch tone phones
========================================================================
Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #285, 10/24/89
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