HOMEBREW Digest #2871 Mon 09 November 1998

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Response to discussion about OLD MALT (Fred M. Scheer) (Fred Scheer)
  Response to an earlier posting: INFECTIONS THROUGH DRY HOPPING (Fred Scheer)
  Response to questions at: Homebrew Digest #2869 (November 06, 1998) (Fred Scheer)
  re:Flaked barley/flaked wheat (ThomasM923)
  Preservative qualities of hops? (Tidmarsh Major)
  Malting - rootlet (culm) seperation (Dan Listermann)
  Re: Cold Fermenting (Jeff Renner)
  pronounciation of wort (Stephen Cavan)
  Fermenting too long? ("Jim McZLusky")
  racking off cold trub? (Sharon/Dan Ritter)
  Re: Fluid flow dynamics in a lauter tun ("Brian Dixon")
  Bells Expedition Stout (Mike Walker)
  Clerer Wort / Yeast Culturing (keith  christiann)
  Heating mode (fridge)
  Mash in space? ("Ludwig's")
  Ommegang Abbey Ale (Brad Johnson)
  RE: to RIMS or not to (MaltHound)
  Richmond Brewpubs ("Lewis, Tim                 HSD")
  Lagering without a fridge (ThomasM923)
  Cultivating Yeast From The Bottle (Jack and Toni Haefner)
  I now pronounce thee... (pbabcock)
  The Jethro Gump Report ("Rob Moline")
  new Wyeast ready-to-pitch packs (Charles Epp)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 20:22:27 -0700 From: Fred Scheer <maltster at marsweb.com> Subject: Response to discussion about OLD MALT (Fred M. Scheer) All malts that are made from sound brewers barley can be stored for long periods of time without detrimental effect to flavor provided the moisture level in the stored malt is kept low ( 4 - 4.5%). Moisture levels that exceed 13.5% make conditions ripe for infestation and mold growth. The same applies for specialty malts. I have never heard of staling of properly stored malt, even for malt that has been properly stored for up to one year. One thing does come to mind when the term "staling" of malt is used, is that malt made from very high protein barley reduces the "mellowness" of the malt produced and this could be interpreted through taste testing as a "staling" flavor. Fred M. Scheer MALT MONTANA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 21:53:58 -0700 From: Fred Scheer <maltster at marsweb.com> Subject: Response to an earlier posting: INFECTIONS THROUGH DRY HOPPING In an study made by jean-Xavier Guinard et al (The Microbiology of Dry Hopping, MBAA Technical Quarterly, Vol. 27, pp.83 - 89, 1990),they concluded that the microflora of different hops used in their study comprised yeast's and bacteria. The yeast's found where described as strains of Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Candida and Cryptococcus neoformans. The bacteria found was described as Enterobacteriacea along with some non-enteric gram-negative rods and some gram-positive, catalase positive rods. They concluded (after they found all the above mentioned yeast's and bacteria) that the results suggest that the practice of dry-hopping is microbiologically safe, especially after three days of fermentation. If some of you would like to have a copy of the study, please call the MBAA office ( [414] 774 - 8558 ) or e-Mail ( channer at mbaa.com); ask for Ms. Hanner and give her the above T.Q. number. Fred M. Scheer MALT MONTANA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 22:08:22 -0700 From: Fred Scheer <maltster at marsweb.com> Subject: Response to questions at: Homebrew Digest #2869 (November 06, 1998) Eric Fouch asked: Subject: Re: Woodruff .....has anybody heard of using woodruff in beer or mead? Alan, Woodruff is mixed with Berliner Weisse. The Woodruff is mixd into the Weiss bier before serving to the customer. As much as I know, the ratio is 2/3 Weiss Bier and 1/3 Woodruff. It is very refreshing when sitting in the summer in the Berliner Alee's and enjoing the sun. Date: Thu, 05 Nov 1998 06:12:50 -0500 (EST) From: LEAVITDG at SPLAVA.CC.PLATTSBURGH.EDU WROTE: Subject: flaked barley/ or flaked wheat (head retention): question Darrell, the best results with head formation and head retention I made by using, as example, 3% in PILSENER, 5% in DUNCKEL [DARK] Beers, and 10% in BOCK BEERS. Fred M. Scheer MALT MONTANA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 01:43:44 EST From: ThomasM923 at aol.com Subject: re:Flaked barley/flaked wheat Darrell- I recommend flaked barley. I've never really liked the taste of wheat very much, but I used to use it in small quantities (~.5 lb.) for head retention. If you want to get a really creamy, long-lasting head, try using about .75 lb. to 1 lb. of flaked barley. It does contribute a very subtle dry(?) flavor but it is not as noticable as wheat. I have had good results with it, however I do think that there is an increased chance for chill haze (wheat can throw a haze also) in a non-lagered beer. The beers that I've used it in were lagered for at least 1 month which took care of the haze. Thomas Murray Maplewood, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 08:41:10 -0600 From: Tidmarsh Major <tidmarsh at mindspring.com> Subject: Preservative qualities of hops? Greetings, all. I was at my local homebrew shop yesterday picking up some hop pellets for making yeast starters, and discussed with the proprietor whether high-alpha or low-alpha hops were more preservative for a fixed weight, or whether alpha acids levels had any relation to preservative qualities at all. Considering that old hops, which have no aroma, flavor, or bittering left, are used as a preservative in Lambics, we came to the tentative conclusion that alpha acids don't relate to preservative ability. However, a recent recipe posted here for malt agar plates recommended hop oils to achieve a certain IBU level, implying a relationship between alpha acids and preservative qualities. The question remains, then, what provides the preservative qualities of the hop, and what exactly are those preservative qualities? I've seen references all over the place that say hops _are_ preservative, but none the say _why_ or _how_. What say ye? Cheers, Tidmarsh Major Birmingham, Alabama Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 10:24:51 -0500 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Malting - rootlet (culm) seperation I have found a very good way to do this, but it may take a bit of domestic diplomacy or stelth. Make a bag out of a material that is very durable. I use a pant leg from a pair of jeans that my wife out grew ( potential social mistake here ). Turn it inside out and wire one end shut. Turn it right side out. Put about 5 lbs of malt in it and tie it shut more than once. I use stelth. I wait until "She Who Must Be Obeyed" is absent from the house and chuck the bag into the domestic dryer for about a half hour. After that I just sive the broken culms away on my screen box. Dan dan at listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 10:25:28 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Cold Fermenting "Kelly C. Heflin" <kheflin at lucent.com> is worried about a slow lager ferment in a temperature controlled fridge. The fact that it has a thick kraeusen is a good sign. Cold lager ferments never go at the rate of a warm ale ferment. You almost certainly underpitched by ideal standards (1+ fl. oz. thick sedimented yeast solids/gallon), but since you made a starter, you're probably OK. A 10-14 day ferment is rather typical for me at 48F even with a decanted one gallon starter/8 gallon wort, although with sufficient yeast (repitched is about the only way to get this much), I get 7-8 days, at which point it's almost stopped bubbling and I start to lower the temperature 2F/day to 32 F for lagering. Of course, if you need a diacetyl rest for your yeast, you would do this just at the end of the ferment while there is still a little bubbling. 43F in the fridge is nothing to worry about as long as the beer is not that cold, and even then, it will probably work. Is your fridge outside or in an unheated garage? If so, you may have a problem that could be addressed with a small light bulb or heating element on a temperature controller, but be sure to turn off the compressor. Otherwise, I suspect you're OK. Keep the faith. Lagers are worth the wait. Jeff -=-=-=-=- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 09:39:07 -0600 (CST) From: Stephen Cavan <cavanst at duke.usask.ca> Subject: pronounciation of wort As a new brewer I immediately started pronouncing words such as "wort" as Papazian suggested. But pronouncing "wort" as "wert" drew some stares from people in the English Deptarment at the Univeristy. Of course they dont' know brewing terms, do they? After being challenged about the Papazian pronounciation, I checked the OED (Oxford English Dictionary) and what did I find? The pronounciation is wort with a long "o" sound. One could sneek in a long "e" sound, a "weert" maybe, which would be closer to the Old English form, but that seems a long way to go just to avoid telling people you have to go now to sparge your wort. I like to say this phrase when ever possible in public. Cheers, Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 11:12:50 -0800 From: "Jim McZLusky" <crash at pgh.net> Subject: Fermenting too long? I brewed a doppelbock back on 10/18...pitched a Wyeast American Lager at around 55-60 Deg. with an OG of 1.060....it has been fermenting in the fridge at around 40 degrees ever since. I checked last night and I'm STILL getting some bubbling in the airlock every 10 seconds or so. The only thing I did that I AM concerned about is I transferred to secondary after the first week because I had such a huge amount of hop pellet residue in it and was worried it might produce some off-taste being in the fermenter so long. Anyways,is this length of time for fementing normal or should I be concerned?TIA Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:48:22 -0700 From: Sharon/Dan Ritter <ritter at bitterroot.net> Subject: racking off cold trub? For the lager brewing experts I have this question: To rack or not to rack wort off of the cold break trub layer before primary fermentation? In my many trials and tribulations of lager brewing I have employed variety of techniques: 1. Force cool wort, rack into primary fermenter, oxygenate, pitch yeast 2. Force cool wort, rack into settling tank, oxygenate, pitch yeast, allow contents to settle 6-8 hours, rack off trub layer into primary fermenter 3. Force cool wort, rack into settling tank, allow contents to settle 6-8 hours, rack off trub layer into primary fermenter, oxygenate, pitch yeast My best Bohemian-style pilsener was made using technique #2 but it considerably lengthened the lag phase. I've also had success with technique #3 but the cooled wort sits in my fridge for an extra 6-8 hours without the bacteria fighting yeast doing its thing. I've read a myriad of opinions on this subject (most notedly from Dave Miller in BT and his HB book), but it seems each technique has its drawbacks. The practical part of me says to just cool the wort and pitch the yeast but I've brewed some lagers with this technique that have resulted in some noticeable but hard to define off flavors (not as "clean" tasting). What do you all think? Dan Ritter <ritter at bitterroot.net> Ritter's MAMMOTH Brewery - Hamilton, Montana Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:40:06 -0800 From: "Brian Dixon" <mutex at proaxis.com> Subject: Re: Fluid flow dynamics in a lauter tun This thread has been great ... why don't you guys (or John) get together and write an article for BrewingTechniques. It's easy. Just contact Deb Jolda at editor at brewtech.com. Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:44:28 -0800 (PST) From: Mike Walker <doplbock at yahoo.com> Subject: Bells Expedition Stout All, I am looking for info on reproducing the wonderful Imperial Stout brewed by Bells called Expedition Stout. Their web site gives a target OG of 1.105 and 10 percent ABV, but not much else to go on. Thus far a search of the web has been fruitless. Anybody have more detail about the grain bill and hopping of this beer? Thanks, Mike Walker Mesa, AZ (a hell of a long way from Jeff Renner) _________________________________________________________ DO YOU YAHOO!? Get your free at yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 14:57:23 -0800 (PST) From: keith christiann <kchris1 at lausd.k12.ca.us> Subject: Clerer Wort / Yeast Culturing Brewers With a new born keeping me up at night I seem to have more time to think... Instead of worrying about work, school, being a daddy... I have been thinking of brewing. Some of my questions are below. George D. and others have stressed the importance of clear runn off from the mash. What is a "clear run off"? With my Easy Masher, after about 1 or 2 cups, it is free of chunks of grain but is cloudy. Should I continue to recirculate it until you can see clearly throu it? Also thinking of how to get a clearer wort in the fermentor... After the boil, should I pull my emersion chiller out, stir to get the trub in the center, or let trub naturally settle and continue to drain through my Easy Masher? A few questions about yeast. I bought some 10ml tubes of wort for making starters off slants. I have one tube that has been enoculated for probably a year and the other tube that has not been enoculated. Both tubes are clear, except one has yeast sediment on the bottom. If they are brilliantly clear, are they still good as long as I get a good start from them? I also have an old pack of 2112 which I found in the back of my frig with a date of May 24, 1995! If it swells, will it produce a good beer, just take a bit longer to wake up? It is time to reculture my slants. Is it good practice to go from one slant to another, or should I take a loop full from a 10ml starter to streak the slant? Thanks Keith Chatsworth CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 21:08:42 -0500 From: fridge at kalamazoo.net Subject: Heating mode Greetings folks, In HBD#2870, Brad Plummer asked about temperature controllers and their use for heating and/or cooling. The Ranco controller I use has a single pole, double throw relay as its output, so power is sent through the normally open contact when the controller calls for cooling, and through the normally closed contact when the temperature reaches setpoint. The mode can be switched from heating to cooling via the controller touchpad. One only needs to unplug the freezer from the controller, plug in a heat source, and switch the controller into heating mode. Ranco also makes a two stage version of the ETC controller that looks like it could be wired to heat or cool as needed without changing modes or plugging/unplugging anything. The Johnson A19 controllers can also be wired fo either heat or cool. One only needs to remove the wire attached to the "close on rise" terminal and attach it to the "open on rise" terminal and plug a heating device into the controller. I have heard from folks who have used light bulbs and various other heat sources in fridges and freezers. I tried using a small light bulb, but it didn't last very long and I had to shield the carboys from the light. I finally wired up an old carafe heater element from a junk coffee maker with an incandescent lamp dimmer. I can plug it into my temperature controller when I need heat and the dimmer allows me to adjust its heat output. It's messy, but I've had good luck with placing carboys in a tub of water and setting up a small aquarium heater to warm the water in the tub. It's cheap and effective. One last thing... If a fridge or freezer is used in a situation where the ambient temperature is more than a few degrees cooler than the cabinet temperature, do not attempt to run the compressor until the compressor is warmed above the cabinet temperature for at least 12 hours. The reason for this is that the refrigerant will tend to accumulate in the coolest part of the system. If the compressor is cooler than the cabinet, refrigerant may collect in the compressor crankcase. Refrigerant is an excellent solvent and will dilute the oil. When the compressor is started, the pressure in the crankcase quickly drops, and the refrigerant will flash into vapor as it is drawn into the compression chamber/s. There are two problems with this. The refrigerant will carry the oil with it, leaving the compressor without lubrication, or even worse, the compressor will try to compress a liquid slug of oil/refrigerant, which will quickly destroy it. Compressor crankcase heaters are available for situations where a compressor must be located in a cold location. Hope this helps! - ---------------------------------------------- Forrest Duddles - FridgeGuy in Kalamazoo fridge at kalamazoo.net The FridgeGuy is now online! Check out http://www.hbd.org/fridgeguy Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 23:09:04 -0500 From: "Ludwig's" <dludwig at us.hsanet.net> Subject: Mash in space? Scott Murman says: > Lauter Dynamics 101. Good stuff. One experiment is worth a thousand > theories. I agree that the experiments are great, but I just have to disagree with the thousand theories stuff. I think that probably a fair amount of homebrewers had already intuitively figured this out, and that is by theorizing. But no doubt it's really interesting to see it in experiment. > Also, in any model of this process the driving force is gravity, and > only gravity. Unless you typically mix your grain bed, there isn't an > energy potential except for gravity, hence there is only one possible > direction for the potential gradient - down. Tell that to John Glenn. Scott, you and I have conversed on this several times and I think that we probably are not really in disagreement but you keep trying to pin this all on gravity and seem to be in denial that there can be a pressure gradient in the mash in any direction except down. One way I've thought of this problem (not that it's a problem) is to imagine the mash during sparge as being modeled as a bunch of tubes. Assuming you have a central exit point in the center/bottom of the mashtun, the total head loss due to friction in the tubes will be higher in the tubes further from the center/bottom point. So take a horizontal slice through the mash tun at some arbitrary point and measure the static pressure (Ps) of the fluid and you'll find that the Ps is highest at the outer area of the mash and lowest in the center above the central collection point. So if you instantaneously remove the tubes, the liquid will flow towards the center of the mash because there is a static pressure gradient from the outer areas to the center. This is not a perfect model, of course, but is useful in visualizing what's going on in the mash during sparge. Dave Ludwig Flat Iron Brewery SO MD Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 08:18:38 -0600 From: Brad Johnson <bjohnson at berkshire.net> Subject: Ommegang Abbey Ale I've just had my first bottle of Ommegang's Abbey Ale and found it remarkable. It has caused me to want to finally brew a Belgian style ale. Any ideas for recipe formulation, for anyone familiar with this beer? I am considering culturing from a bottle. I found a post on the forum (?AK) that indicated they repitch their yeast, which should mean this approach would be fruitful. According to their website, they use "high temp open fermentation". Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 08:53:00 EST From: MaltHound at aol.com Subject: RE: to RIMS or not to In HBD 2969 "Thomas Kramer" <tkramer at monad.net> asks questions about RIMS use. A RIMS system is a mashing system and is not related whatsoever to use of a false bottom in the brew kettle used for removing spemt hops post boil. To directly answer your question about removing hops, try adding some plumbing on the interior of your brew kettle (half barrel keg) to take suction from about 1/2 inch above the concave bottom of the keg. Then by fitting a metal mesh filter over the end, such as the oft specified "Chore Boy" copper scrubby thingies (they also come in stainless BTW) , you will get satisfactory hop and trub removed without plugging up the exit port. I would advise you to use whole hops vs. pellets as these make a much better trub filter in the kettle. As to your other question: "I guess my question is what did you gain by using RIMS, if it's just efficiency, it seems to me it would just as easy to use more grain." Efficiency is only one of the (less important) gains of recirculation mashing, but I would say it is not so much increased *yield* (I prefer this term to efficiency) as it is "predictability" of yield. The more important attributes of recirculated mashing (RIMS, HERMS, etc.) are: Relatively uniform heat distribution within the mash. Crystal Clear wort delivered to the kettle with no additional vorlaufing time. The additional features gained by using the more traditional RIMS system (R. Morris, et al) that has the heating element that is electronically controlled are: Accuracy of attaining and holding mash temperatures Ability to increment mash temps (step mashing) without dilution of mash enzymes Repeatability of mash schedules and most importantly... Wicked easy and fun to use!! Some RIMS detractors claim that it is detrimental in a couple of ways. They claim: Pumping wort continuously throughout the mash may cause HSA. Overheating of the wort in the heating chamber may cause denaturing of enzymes I have found neither of these claims to be an issue. My wort return manifold is submerged in wort and is a modified "H" style which has 8 outlet pipes. Dividing the total flow by 8 has the effect that the wort velocity at the outlets is pretty minr and not a lot of sloshing of the wort takes place. I take care to keep the wort flow fairly high during any time that the heater is on therby minimizing the actual temperature rise of the volume of wort that is in the heater chamber and ensuring that the enzymes in that wort are not damaged. Since converting from infusion mashing to RIMS I have not experienced either HSA related staling or any failure of conversion that might be indicative of these two issues. One shortcoming that is a real issue in these systems is that it takes some amount of time to increment temperatures between steps. This is dependant on the heating capacity of the system and the mass of the grist being mashed. On my particular system I can heat a 5 gallon sized mash (~10 lbs grain and 15 qts of water) pretty rapidly. I have observed increments of 2-3 deg F per minute. This equates to 10 minutes to get from a 132 deg protein rest to a 152 deg sachrification temp. Not bad at all. However, doubling the batch size to 10 gallons also halves the temperature ramp rate and doubles the time for the same step to about 20 minutes. I would say that this is the practical limitation of my system. Obviously, single temperature mashes are no problem and the time to ramp up to mashout temps is of no consequence. Also, though a 20 minute ramp time may be less than optimal, it is extememly predictable and repeatable and can be compensated for to some extent in recipe formulation. Also, I do reside (and RIMS mash) in Southern New Hampshire but I am east of you in Londonderry (near Manchester). You are welcome to drop me a line if you'll be in the neighborhood sometime and take a gander at my set-up. Cheers, Fred W ills Fearless Freddies Half Barrel Brewer Londonderry, New Hampshire Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 09:36:53 -0500 From: "Lewis, Tim HSD" <LEWISTI at hsd.utc.com> Subject: Richmond Brewpubs To Nathan Kanous who asked: >>>Going to be in Richmond VA on Nov 16th. Any good brewpubs to check out?<<< I have never been there but there is an excellent site I have used often recently call www.pubcrawler.com which has a template to type it your city of interest and up comes a listing (with reader reviews!) of all microbreweries, brewpubs, and beer bars in the area. A quick check shows that there are several in Richmond to keep you busy. I just used this page for a trip to Phoenix and it really made it worthwhile. Good luck! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 14:20:57 EST From: ThomasM923 at aol.com Subject: Lagering without a fridge John, I have lagered in a styrofoam box for a couple of years and have had good results with this method. I built it out of 2" thick styrofoam and covered it with the type of insulation that goes on the outside of new houses. It is about a half inch thick and covered on both sides with foil. I keep some liter bottles of water in the freezer and replace the ones in the lager box every day. Once I reach lagering temp, I only have to replace two or three per day, with a grand total of four to five in the box. I am able to easily maintain a temp at around 38-40 degrees F with a ambient temp of around 59-65 degrees F. The only drawback is getting yourself into the routine of running down into your basement every morning to replace the bottles of ice. Thomas Murray Maplewood, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:26:26 +0100 From: Jack and Toni Haefner <haefnerj at email.grafenwoehr.army.mil> Subject: Cultivating Yeast From The Bottle 082015-Nov-98 In response to George De Piro's message (Harvesting yeast from bottled beers, #2869), I have a small bit of advice which homebrewers may find helpful. Although it is very possible if you are close to the brewing source, you may encounter problems in beers imported into the US. I am not positive, but I've heard many are pasteurized to satisfy customs regulations. That being said, I did effectively cultivate a culture from a Maisel's Weisse here in Germany with OK results the first time (the brewery in Bayreuth refused to give me a yeast sample, so I thought I'd get it from a bottle). My second time using the same bottle cultured yeast was unspectacular. The moral is to be sure of the brewing process before you cultivate-I later read that Maisel's (among many) brews their weizen with a obergaerige (top fermenting) yeast, but then adds a untergaerige (bottom fermenting) yeast for the lagering stage. What I probably cultivated was a combination of both which didn't work well in either of the extremes. I'm no expert in Chimay for fear the Reinheitsgebot police cart me away, but heed the warning before you experiment CPT Jack & Toni Haefner 535th En Co (CSE) CMR 415, Box 4042 APO AE 09114 Grafenwoehr, Germany Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 15:51:25 -0500 (EST) From: pbabcock <pbabcock at mail.oeonline.com> Subject: I now pronounce thee... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your linguist... Someone asked for some pronunciations... Trub - trube Wort - wert, woart or wart but usually wert Vorlauf - vorloff Sparge - sparj Spargate - spar-get Diacetyl - die-ass-it-il, die-ass-eat-il, die-uh-set-ul usually the first, rarely the last Decoction - dee-cok-shun Hmmmm. Can't think of anything else at the moment. See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at oeonline.com Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://oeonline.com/~pbabcock/brew.html "Just a cyber-shadow of his former brewing self..." Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 15:47:02 -0600 From: "Rob Moline" <brewer at ames.net> Subject: The Jethro Gump Report The Jethro Gump Report If the following info is redundant, having been previously posted by others, I apologize. The Practical Brewer..... While the new edition of the PB has not yet been published, (it is due out in the beginning of the new year, all going smoothly) brewers wishing to acquire a secondhand copy of the 1st edition can find one at www.bibliofind.com. This is a great resource for difficult to find and/or rare books. I found a paperback copy of the unauthorized Busch family "Under The Influence,......." for just a few dollars, and a copy of the 1946 edition of PB, signed by a brewing instructor to one of his students in the fifties, for 15 bucks, and 5 $ for shipping. Looking at bibliofind today, I see that there are about 7 or 8 copies of the first edition, and a few of those are from the 1946 1st printing. Prices range from 27.50 and up, but some haggling might be employed here. But for the real deal, www.mbaa.com/publication.html allows the downloading of the book, chapter by chapter. SF BP's.....In Frisco for the BP convention and would appreciate local recommendations for 'must-see' brewpubs....Thanks Cheers! Jethro Gump "The More I Know About beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About Beer!" Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 16:33:41 -0600 From: Charles Epp <chuckepp at ukans.edu> Subject: new Wyeast ready-to-pitch packs Hi all. I'm curious about peoples' experiences with the new Wyeast super-packs, which are supposedly ready to pitch (after an initial 12-hour incubation period) without using a starter. I used one yesterday (Wyeast 1318), and signs of active fermentation in the carboy were evident after about 18 hours. That's still a pretty long lag by my book, and I'll hesitate to use these things again without a starter unless my experience is fairly unique. Have any of you tried pitching directly from the pack to the carboy with these things, and, if so, how long have your lags been? --Chuck in Lawrence, KS Return to table of contents
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