---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com


Contents:
  Filling Kegs ("Jack Schmidling")
  Edelweiss Hefetrub and Dunkelweizen ("Fred L. Johnson")
  Home Brewing in Utah? ("Mr. Joy Hansen")
  Proper ball valve size? ("Jay White")
  Dunkelweizen (Eric Schoville)
  Pilsner malt Barleywine? ("Les Stoddard")
  Lagering ("Steven Jones")
  keg help (rnrduyck)
  Homebrewing in France (mark)
  Kegging and a new snout for the pig ("Brew")
  re: keg momily & new web info ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Salvator (Jim Bentson)
  MCAB Stuff (Louis Bonham)
  Schwarzbier (Jim Welsh)


* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!

* The HBD now hosts eight digests related to this and a few other hobbies.
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----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 23:04:42 -0500
From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net>
Subject: Filling Kegs

One of the out-of-control processes of my brewing cycle has always been filling
the kegs.  I use a pump to move the beer from the fermenter to the keg and foam
has always been a problem.  Frequently, I had to stop filling and wait a  hour
for the foam to subside before finishing.  I tried a speed control on the pump,
mucked around with different hose and fitting sizes but nothing worked  right.

It has been my procedure to allow air to escape through the release valve while
filling kegs.  It seemed so obviously necessary that I never questioned the need
to do it.

One day while filling, I noticed the pump starting to labor and discovered that
I had forgotten to open the release valve.  As soon as I released the pressure,
the output line turned from perfectly clear to the usual foamy look.  I opened
the keg and noted not a bit of foam on the surface.  I closed the valve again
and as soon as the pressure got to a certain level, the line cleared up again.

For the next batch, I put an air gage on a spare pin-lock connector and
determined that  between 8 and 10 lbs, there was no foam.  I have now
replaced the gage with a 10 psi relief valve for completely hands-off,
foam free keg filling.

It works like counterpressure filling but requires no CO2 or complicated
balancing act.

The relief valve is a simple little gadget  that only cost about $4 and is
available in 5 psi steps from 5 to 50 psi.  Seems like it could be useful
 for natural conditioning in the keg.  Just hook it to a pin or ball lock
connector and it will carbonate at whatever pressure you select.

Would also be a simple solution to the boinking problem on minikegs.

McMaster Carr carries them as catalog # 4772K2... $3.95

js

PHOTO OF THE WEEK  http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm
HOME  http://user.mc.net/arf




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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 06:13:17 -0400
From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Edelweiss Hefetrub and Dunkelweizen

Since the Digest is still gearing up again and the number of topics is 
relatively low at this point, I thought I'd repost a question that
never got an answer earlier this year:

Does anyone know if the yeast in the bottles of Edelweiss Hefetrub or
Dunkelweizen yeast is used for the primary fermentation of these
beers.  I had these in Vienna recently and really loved them.  I only
recently discovered that these won silver and gold, respectively, in
their categories in the 1996 World Beer Cup International competition.
Since I brought a couple of bottles home from my Vienna trip, I
thought it was worth a try at culturing the yeast, but only if the
yeast in the bottle was actually used in the primary.

Comments?
- --
Fred L. Johnson
Apex, North Carolina
USA


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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 07:15:24 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy Hansen" <joytbrew at patriot.net>
Subject: Home Brewing in Utah?

Brian Morgan,

The last time I had a decent thought, home brewing in Utah was illegal.
Sort of like radar detectors in Virginia.  Why would you look for a home
brewing store in a State that has the highest per capita consumption of
booze in the nation?

It seems that some group in Utah doesn't want to share the wealth from
selling booze!

                                               Joy"T"Brew

P.S. Watch the covenants on any property that you buy.



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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 13:19:34 -0400
From: "Jay White" <jwhite at snip.net>
Subject: Proper ball valve size?

This is my first submission to the board!  Its really great to get feedback
and answers from some extremely knowledgeable people so here it
goes.


I'm busy trying to organize the proper components to set-up a 2-tier brewery
using converted Sanke kegs (HLT & BV) and a Polarware (MLT).  My question is
if the Polarware kettle (MLT) has a 3/8" ball valve should my keg also be
modified to have a 3/8" valve or could I use a 1/2"
valve?  Is there any restriction or benefit of either, especially since both
are going to be located on the upper level tier and my pump will
have to move liquids between the two vessels?

I want to use the HLT for re-circulation of hot water located in the MLT
(ala reverse HERMs using a copper coil {3/8" or 1/2"?}) for stepped
infusions and as the sparge water source.  I don't want to place too much
strain on the pump being able to control the flow with the ball valves.
Also, what about tubing diameter, I've got reinforced 1/2"?

Any comments or suggestions would greatly be appreciated.



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Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 12:35:43 -0500
From: Eric Schoville <eschovil at us.oracle.com>
Subject: Dunkelweizen

For a dunkelweizen, I am have used 50% Wheat/50% Dark Munich
malt with a double decoction mash.  Color turns out like a
Fransiskaner Dunkelweizen, not like an Erdinger
Dunkelweizen, which I am more fond of.  I know for a fact
that Erdinger uses dark wheat malt for their dunkelweizen,
and I am pretty sure some colored malt as well.  The
braeumeister was not willing to share his grain bill with
me...  :(

Eric Schoville
Flower Mound, TX
http://home1.gte.net/rschovil/beer


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Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 16:52:10 -0400
From: "Les Stoddard" <wailstail at email.msn.com>
Subject: Pilsner malt Barleywine?

I have been a reader for a long time and enjoy HBD immensely.  Now for my
question, I have a substantial amount of Pilsner Malt left from a bulk buy,
I would like to use it up in a somewhat unusual way.  Has anyone ever made a
Barleywine from Pilsner malt?  Are their any caveats I should be aware of?
Private E-mail is ok
Les Stoddard
Long Island, New York


begin 666 Les Stoddard.vcf
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>.C$Y.3DQ,# Y5#(P-3(Q,%H-"D5.1#I60T%21 T*
`
end




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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 10:38:00 -0400
From: "Steven Jones" <stjones1 at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Lagering

Hi, all.

I've tried to search the archives on this, but the
search process is still down.

In 3+ years of reading the digest, I don't recall seeing
this mentioned. I was wondering how folks prevent air
from sucking back thru the airlock when cooling lagers
after the diacetyl rest. It seems to me that as the brew
cools down, there wouldn't be enough fermentation
activity to keep a positive pressure in the carboy.

I have made 2 lagers previously, and both times I had to
continually release the partial vacuum created in the
carboy as it chilled. I let the primary go for 7 days at
around 50F, then rack to secondary and warm to around
60-65F for a few days, then put it back in the cooler
and begin chilling at about 3 degrees per day. Once it
gets down to around 50-55 again, I notice a negative
pressure and some of the liquid in the airlock gets
pulled into the beer. I use an ethanol/water mix, so it
shouldn't be a problem like it would be if I used
iodophor or bleach, but I still wonder if there is a
better way.

Thanks

Steve
State of Franklin Homebrewers
http://home.att.net/~stjones1/index.htm




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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 13:02:47 -0400
From: rnrduyck <rnrduyck at mnsi.net>
Subject: keg help

While rummaging around a scrap yard looking for 1/2 barrel kegs for a
three tier system (which I found!) I came across a smaller keg. It looks
exactly like the larger kegs (same valve on top)only its 30 liters or
7.5 gallons U.S.Remembering that my dad once had a commercial keg
set-up, I went over there and he gave me the tap parts. They consist of
the part which fits onto the valve (which fits the small keg I found)
and a tap.I've got fridge space to use this keg. Now if anyone out there
can tell me how to use this I would greatly appreciate it! From reading
different posts, do I need a CO2 tank and regulator? Any info on how to
keg beer and how to clean this type of keg would be a great help. Thanks
in advance. Rick


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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 19:38:27 +0200
From: mark <shrike.cars at accesinternet.com>
Subject: Homebrewing in France

Fellow Brewer's

Hello again. Long time since I posted. I was wondering if anyone could tell me
if there are any homebrew clubs in France? I am having a terrible time finding
any, even on the net....

Thanks!
Prost!
Mark
mark at awfulquiet.com
- -------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.professionalbrewer.com
The Craft Brewing Industries Business to Business Directory



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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 13:42:15 -0700
From: "Brew" <brew at steinfillers.com>
Subject: Kegging and a new snout for the pig

Rick Wood writes about kegging:
"I then got a party pig.  I really liked it as well but didn't like the
pouch
and didn't like priming"
I agree, there are many things I like about the pig - pouch and priming not
included in that list however.

Thus, I have developed a stainless steel plate for the party pig that
replaces their front spigot assembly.   It has a plastic spigot and a ball
lock gas fitting tapped into the stainless plate.  The plate also has an
o-ring impregnated into the plate that eliminates their floppy washer.

Should be listed in Zymurgy - New products listings next issue.

Disclaimer: I am not associated with the makers of the pig, and they do not
stand behind a pig that has been modified with this plate.  They are
concerned about safety, not to mention they like to sell pouches.  However,
I do not consider this anymore of a risk than using a co2 tank/regulator to
pressurize a 2 Lt. soda bottle with a Carbonator.

Don Van Valkenburg
Stein Fillers Brewing Supply
brew at steinfillers.com
www.steinfillers.com



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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 16:59:21
From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net>
Subject: re: keg momily & new web info

Mike posted: 

>If your fridge is deep enough, I guess you could lay the keg on its side 
>hoping your lid seal didn't leak, the dispensation pressure, after all, 
>being subject to human error because the CO2 is not hooked up.  

I've used cornies (with oversized lid o-rings- Williams Brewing sells 'em)
on their side at 0 psig without leakage.

>Once the beer level has fallen below the dip tube, however, you'd 
>have to stand it up.  

Some kegs are designed so that the liquid out dip tube's lower end is not
at the center of the bottom- instead, it's junction with the side of the
keg.  Ulage is less than 12 oz. so you won't need to stand it up but once.
 
 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
Just posted two things to the web:

1.  John Schnupp's Tap Cap that turns a 3L pop bottle into a keg:
        hbd.org/cdp/kegferm.htm   or   chattanooga.net/~cdp/tapcap.htm

2.  My design for using cornies (severely hacked upon!) as fermenters.  
    Uses a heat exchanger in the keg powered by ice or a fridge:
        hbd.org/cdp/tapcap.htm   or   chattanooga.net/~cdp/kegferm.htm

Any comments are welcomed.




c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net 
http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/



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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 18:57:11 -0400
From: Jim Bentson <jbentson at longisland.com>
Subject: Salvator

In HBD 3138 Joe Gibbens asked about Paulener Salvator.:

Joe it is a "Double Bock" and you can read about the style in Darryl
Richman's " Bock - Vol 9" of the Classic Beer Series. If you want a recipe,
here is one from Wheeler and Protz - "Brew Classic European Beers at Home"
(I haven't tried this one but I generally like the results of their recipes)

For 5 U.S. gals.
 7.6 lbs Light Munich Malt
4.65 lbs Dark Munich Malt
1.07 lbs Caramunich Malt

1.4 oz Hallertau at start of 90 min boil (30 IBU Bitterness)

Two step or double decoction mash. Their suggested steps are 30 min at 122
deg F and 60 min at 151 deg F. You may want to reduce the 122 deg step to
15 min.  and up the 151 deg step to 75 min based on past discussions here.

OG 1072
FG 1016

Hope this helps

Jim Bentson
Centerport NY





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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 20:16:09 -0500
From: Louis Bonham <lkbonham at hypercon.com>
Subject: MCAB Stuff

Hi folks:

Now that the HBD server is back up (applause for Pat and
Karl!), the MCAB website is also back up and hopefully will
be brought current shortly.  (The HBD server crash also took
out my lkbonham at hbd.org alias for a while . . . if you've
tried to reach me in the last month without success, please
try again.)  If you've qualified for MCAB II, remember that
you've got a little more than five months until the
competition in St. Louis, so fine-tune those recipes and get
brewing.

We also hope to have a MCAB mailing list up and running
shortly, which will make it easier to blast MCAB
announcements and information to interested folks.  Watch
this space for details.

It's also time for the MCAB Steering Committee to decide
what competitions will serve as Qualifying Events ("QE's")
for MCAB III, as well as what the Qualifying Styles ("QS's")
will be.  If you have any suggestions in this regard, please
drop me a line and I'll include them in the Steering
Committee discussions.  We hope to have the decisions make
on the MCAB III QS's and at least the early-2000 QE's by the
first week of November.

Additionally, we also need to decide which club will host
MCAB III, which will be held sometime in early 2001.  If
your club has a demonstrated track record of running quality
competitions and would be interested in hosting MCAB III,
please drop me a note.  We would like to make this decision
by the end of the year.

Finally, if there are folks that the brewing community
believes should be on the MCAB Steering Committee as
additional "at large" members, lemme know and I'll add such
names to the Steering Committee discussions.  FYI, the "at
large" folks currently on the committee are:

George Fix
Byron Burch
Fred Eckhardt
Scott Birdwell
Scott Bickham
Dave Houseman
Jim Liddil
Chuck Cox

Prospective additional at-large members should have amateur
brewing credentials comparable to these folks.

Louis K. Bonham
lkbonham at hbd.org



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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 23:06:43 -0500
From: Jim Welsh <jwelsh at execpc.com>
Subject: Schwarzbier

I am planning to brew a Schwarzbier and am looking for some recipe
ideas. I am a big fan of Sprecher Brewery's (Milwaukee) Schwarzbier and
would love to come close to replicating it. Any ideas would be
appreciated. Thanks.
Jim



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