HOMEBREW Digest #3141 Mon 11 October 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  Filling Kegs ("Jack Schmidling")
  Edelweiss Hefetrub and Dunkelweizen ("Fred L. Johnson")
  Home Brewing in Utah? ("Mr. Joy Hansen")
  Proper ball valve size? ("Jay White")
  Dunkelweizen (Eric Schoville)
  Pilsner malt Barleywine? ("Les Stoddard")
  Lagering ("Steven Jones")
  keg help (rnrduyck)
  Homebrewing in France (mark)
  Kegging and a new snout for the pig ("Brew")
  re: keg momily & new web info ("C.D. Pritchard")
  Salvator (Jim Bentson)
  MCAB Stuff (Louis Bonham)
  Schwarzbier (Jim Welsh)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 23:04:42 -0500 From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> Subject: Filling Kegs One of the out-of-control processes of my brewing cycle has always been filling the kegs. I use a pump to move the beer from the fermenter to the keg and foam has always been a problem. Frequently, I had to stop filling and wait a hour for the foam to subside before finishing. I tried a speed control on the pump, mucked around with different hose and fitting sizes but nothing worked right. It has been my procedure to allow air to escape through the release valve while filling kegs. It seemed so obviously necessary that I never questioned the need to do it. One day while filling, I noticed the pump starting to labor and discovered that I had forgotten to open the release valve. As soon as I released the pressure, the output line turned from perfectly clear to the usual foamy look. I opened the keg and noted not a bit of foam on the surface. I closed the valve again and as soon as the pressure got to a certain level, the line cleared up again. For the next batch, I put an air gage on a spare pin-lock connector and determined that between 8 and 10 lbs, there was no foam. I have now replaced the gage with a 10 psi relief valve for completely hands-off, foam free keg filling. It works like counterpressure filling but requires no CO2 or complicated balancing act. The relief valve is a simple little gadget that only cost about $4 and is available in 5 psi steps from 5 to 50 psi. Seems like it could be useful for natural conditioning in the keg. Just hook it to a pin or ball lock connector and it will carbonate at whatever pressure you select. Would also be a simple solution to the boinking problem on minikegs. McMaster Carr carries them as catalog # 4772K2... $3.95 js PHOTO OF THE WEEK http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm HOME http://user.mc.net/arf Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 06:13:17 -0400 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <FLJohnson at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Edelweiss Hefetrub and Dunkelweizen Since the Digest is still gearing up again and the number of topics is relatively low at this point, I thought I'd repost a question that never got an answer earlier this year: Does anyone know if the yeast in the bottles of Edelweiss Hefetrub or Dunkelweizen yeast is used for the primary fermentation of these beers. I had these in Vienna recently and really loved them. I only recently discovered that these won silver and gold, respectively, in their categories in the 1996 World Beer Cup International competition. Since I brought a couple of bottles home from my Vienna trip, I thought it was worth a try at culturing the yeast, but only if the yeast in the bottle was actually used in the primary. Comments? - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 07:15:24 -0400 From: "Mr. Joy Hansen" <joytbrew at patriot.net> Subject: Home Brewing in Utah? Brian Morgan, The last time I had a decent thought, home brewing in Utah was illegal. Sort of like radar detectors in Virginia. Why would you look for a home brewing store in a State that has the highest per capita consumption of booze in the nation? It seems that some group in Utah doesn't want to share the wealth from selling booze! Joy"T"Brew P.S. Watch the covenants on any property that you buy. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 13:19:34 -0400 From: "Jay White" <jwhite at snip.net> Subject: Proper ball valve size? This is my first submission to the board! Its really great to get feedback and answers from some extremely knowledgeable people so here it goes. I'm busy trying to organize the proper components to set-up a 2-tier brewery using converted Sanke kegs (HLT & BV) and a Polarware (MLT). My question is if the Polarware kettle (MLT) has a 3/8" ball valve should my keg also be modified to have a 3/8" valve or could I use a 1/2" valve? Is there any restriction or benefit of either, especially since both are going to be located on the upper level tier and my pump will have to move liquids between the two vessels? I want to use the HLT for re-circulation of hot water located in the MLT (ala reverse HERMs using a copper coil {3/8" or 1/2"?}) for stepped infusions and as the sparge water source. I don't want to place too much strain on the pump being able to control the flow with the ball valves. Also, what about tubing diameter, I've got reinforced 1/2"? Any comments or suggestions would greatly be appreciated. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 09 Oct 1999 12:35:43 -0500 From: Eric Schoville <eschovil at us.oracle.com> Subject: Dunkelweizen For a dunkelweizen, I am have used 50% Wheat/50% Dark Munich malt with a double decoction mash. Color turns out like a Fransiskaner Dunkelweizen, not like an Erdinger Dunkelweizen, which I am more fond of. I know for a fact that Erdinger uses dark wheat malt for their dunkelweizen, and I am pretty sure some colored malt as well. The braeumeister was not willing to share his grain bill with me... :( Eric Schoville Flower Mound, TX http://home1.gte.net/rschovil/beer Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 16:52:10 -0400 From: "Les Stoddard" <wailstail at email.msn.com> Subject: Pilsner malt Barleywine? I have been a reader for a long time and enjoy HBD immensely. Now for my question, I have a substantial amount of Pilsner Malt left from a bulk buy, I would like to use it up in a somewhat unusual way. Has anyone ever made a Barleywine from Pilsner malt? Are their any caveats I should be aware of? Private E-mail is ok Les Stoddard Long Island, New York begin 666 Les Stoddard.vcf M0D5'24XZ5D-!4D0-"E9%4E-)3TXZ,BXQ#0I..E-T;V1D87)D.TQE<PT*1DXZ M3&5S(%-T;V1D87)D#0I/4D<Z0VQE86X at 4F]O;2!%;F=I;F5E<FEN9SM%;F=I M;F5E<FEN9PT*5$E43$4Z4')O:F5C="!-86YA9V5R#0I.3U1%.T5.0T]$24Y' M/5%53U1%1"U04DE.5$%"3$4Z0VQE86X at 4F]O;2!%;F=I;F5E<FEN9R!I<R!A M;B!I;F1U<W1R>2!L96%D97( at :6X at =&AE(&UA;G5F86-T=7)E(&]F(&-L96%N M(')O;ST-"FUS+B at /3!$/3!!5V4 at 8G5I;&0 at =&\ at >6]U<B!S<&5C:69I8V%T M:6]N<R!O<B!C86X at 97)E8W0 at 82!S;V9T=V%L;"!R;V]M(&%T('D]#0IO=7( at M;&]C871I;VXN/3!$/3!!0U)0(&-A;B!A;'-O('-U<'!L>2!Y;W4 at =VET:"!, M86UI;F%R(&%I<B!F;&]W(&AO;V1S+"!C86)I/0T*;F5T<R!A;F0 at 86ER('-H M;W=E<G, at 9F]R('EO=7( at 97AS:7-T:6YG(')O;VTN#0I414P[5T]22SM63TE# M13HH-3$V*34X."TW,# P(&5X="XR.# at -"E1%3#M004=%4CM63TE#13HH-3$V M*3,S-"TP.30P#0I!1%([5T]22SM%3D-/1$E.1SU154]4140M4%))3E1!0DQ% M.CL[,3 at P,"!/8V5A;B!!=F4],$0],$$[4F]N:V]N:V]M83M.97< at 66]R:SLQ M,3<W.3M54T$-"DQ!0D5,.U=/4DL[14Y#3T1)3D<]455/5$5$+5!224Y404), M13HQ.# P($]C96%N($%V93TP1#TP03TP1#TP05)O;FMO;FMO;6$L($YE=R!9 M;W)K(#$Q-S<Y/3!$/3!!55-!#0I!1%([2$]-13H[.S,V,B!#;VQL:6YG=&]N M($1R:79E.U)O;FMO;FMO;6$[3F5W(%EO<FL[,3$W-SD[56YI=&5D(%-T871E M<R!O9B!!;65R:6-A#0I,04)%3#M(3TU%.T5.0T]$24Y'/5%53U1%1"U04DE. M5$%"3$4Z,S8R($-O;&QI;F=T;VX at 1')I=F4],$0],$%2;VYK;VYK;VUA+"!. M97< at 66]R:R Q,3<W.3TP1#TP055N:71E9"!3=&%T97, at ;V8 at 03T-"FUE<FEC M80T*14U!24P[4%)%1CM)3E1%4DY%5#IW86EL<W1A:6Q ;7-N+F-O;0T*4D56 >.C$Y.3DQ,# Y5#(P-3(Q,%H-"D5.1#I60T%21 T* ` end Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 10:38:00 -0400 From: "Steven Jones" <stjones1 at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Lagering Hi, all. I've tried to search the archives on this, but the search process is still down. In 3+ years of reading the digest, I don't recall seeing this mentioned. I was wondering how folks prevent air from sucking back thru the airlock when cooling lagers after the diacetyl rest. It seems to me that as the brew cools down, there wouldn't be enough fermentation activity to keep a positive pressure in the carboy. I have made 2 lagers previously, and both times I had to continually release the partial vacuum created in the carboy as it chilled. I let the primary go for 7 days at around 50F, then rack to secondary and warm to around 60-65F for a few days, then put it back in the cooler and begin chilling at about 3 degrees per day. Once it gets down to around 50-55 again, I notice a negative pressure and some of the liquid in the airlock gets pulled into the beer. I use an ethanol/water mix, so it shouldn't be a problem like it would be if I used iodophor or bleach, but I still wonder if there is a better way. Thanks Steve State of Franklin Homebrewers http://home.att.net/~stjones1/index.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 13:02:47 -0400 From: rnrduyck <rnrduyck at mnsi.net> Subject: keg help While rummaging around a scrap yard looking for 1/2 barrel kegs for a three tier system (which I found!) I came across a smaller keg. It looks exactly like the larger kegs (same valve on top)only its 30 liters or 7.5 gallons U.S.Remembering that my dad once had a commercial keg set-up, I went over there and he gave me the tap parts. They consist of the part which fits onto the valve (which fits the small keg I found) and a tap.I've got fridge space to use this keg. Now if anyone out there can tell me how to use this I would greatly appreciate it! From reading different posts, do I need a CO2 tank and regulator? Any info on how to keg beer and how to clean this type of keg would be a great help. Thanks in advance. Rick Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 19:38:27 +0200 From: mark <shrike.cars at accesinternet.com> Subject: Homebrewing in France Fellow Brewer's Hello again. Long time since I posted. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there are any homebrew clubs in France? I am having a terrible time finding any, even on the net.... Thanks! Prost! Mark mark at awfulquiet.com - ------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.professionalbrewer.com The Craft Brewing Industries Business to Business Directory Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 13:42:15 -0700 From: "Brew" <brew at steinfillers.com> Subject: Kegging and a new snout for the pig Rick Wood writes about kegging: "I then got a party pig. I really liked it as well but didn't like the pouch and didn't like priming" I agree, there are many things I like about the pig - pouch and priming not included in that list however. Thus, I have developed a stainless steel plate for the party pig that replaces their front spigot assembly. It has a plastic spigot and a ball lock gas fitting tapped into the stainless plate. The plate also has an o-ring impregnated into the plate that eliminates their floppy washer. Should be listed in Zymurgy - New products listings next issue. Disclaimer: I am not associated with the makers of the pig, and they do not stand behind a pig that has been modified with this plate. They are concerned about safety, not to mention they like to sell pouches. However, I do not consider this anymore of a risk than using a co2 tank/regulator to pressurize a 2 Lt. soda bottle with a Carbonator. Don Van Valkenburg Stein Fillers Brewing Supply brew at steinfillers.com www.steinfillers.com Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 16:59:21 From: "C.D. Pritchard" <cdp at chattanooga.net> Subject: re: keg momily & new web info Mike posted: >If your fridge is deep enough, I guess you could lay the keg on its side >hoping your lid seal didn't leak, the dispensation pressure, after all, >being subject to human error because the CO2 is not hooked up. I've used cornies (with oversized lid o-rings- Williams Brewing sells 'em) on their side at 0 psig without leakage. >Once the beer level has fallen below the dip tube, however, you'd >have to stand it up. Some kegs are designed so that the liquid out dip tube's lower end is not at the center of the bottom- instead, it's junction with the side of the keg. Ulage is less than 12 oz. so you won't need to stand it up but once. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Just posted two things to the web: 1. John Schnupp's Tap Cap that turns a 3L pop bottle into a keg: hbd.org/cdp/kegferm.htm or chattanooga.net/~cdp/tapcap.htm 2. My design for using cornies (severely hacked upon!) as fermenters. Uses a heat exchanger in the keg powered by ice or a fridge: hbd.org/cdp/tapcap.htm or chattanooga.net/~cdp/kegferm.htm Any comments are welcomed. c.d. pritchard cdp at chattanooga.net http://chattanooga.net/~cdp/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 18:57:11 -0400 From: Jim Bentson <jbentson at longisland.com> Subject: Salvator In HBD 3138 Joe Gibbens asked about Paulener Salvator.: Joe it is a "Double Bock" and you can read about the style in Darryl Richman's " Bock - Vol 9" of the Classic Beer Series. If you want a recipe, here is one from Wheeler and Protz - "Brew Classic European Beers at Home" (I haven't tried this one but I generally like the results of their recipes) For 5 U.S. gals. 7.6 lbs Light Munich Malt 4.65 lbs Dark Munich Malt 1.07 lbs Caramunich Malt 1.4 oz Hallertau at start of 90 min boil (30 IBU Bitterness) Two step or double decoction mash. Their suggested steps are 30 min at 122 deg F and 60 min at 151 deg F. You may want to reduce the 122 deg step to 15 min. and up the 151 deg step to 75 min based on past discussions here. OG 1072 FG 1016 Hope this helps Jim Bentson Centerport NY Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 20:16:09 -0500 From: Louis Bonham <lkbonham at hypercon.com> Subject: MCAB Stuff Hi folks: Now that the HBD server is back up (applause for Pat and Karl!), the MCAB website is also back up and hopefully will be brought current shortly. (The HBD server crash also took out my lkbonham at hbd.org alias for a while . . . if you've tried to reach me in the last month without success, please try again.) If you've qualified for MCAB II, remember that you've got a little more than five months until the competition in St. Louis, so fine-tune those recipes and get brewing. We also hope to have a MCAB mailing list up and running shortly, which will make it easier to blast MCAB announcements and information to interested folks. Watch this space for details. It's also time for the MCAB Steering Committee to decide what competitions will serve as Qualifying Events ("QE's") for MCAB III, as well as what the Qualifying Styles ("QS's") will be. If you have any suggestions in this regard, please drop me a line and I'll include them in the Steering Committee discussions. We hope to have the decisions make on the MCAB III QS's and at least the early-2000 QE's by the first week of November. Additionally, we also need to decide which club will host MCAB III, which will be held sometime in early 2001. If your club has a demonstrated track record of running quality competitions and would be interested in hosting MCAB III, please drop me a note. We would like to make this decision by the end of the year. Finally, if there are folks that the brewing community believes should be on the MCAB Steering Committee as additional "at large" members, lemme know and I'll add such names to the Steering Committee discussions. FYI, the "at large" folks currently on the committee are: George Fix Byron Burch Fred Eckhardt Scott Birdwell Scott Bickham Dave Houseman Jim Liddil Chuck Cox Prospective additional at-large members should have amateur brewing credentials comparable to these folks. Louis K. Bonham lkbonham at hbd.org Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 23:06:43 -0500 From: Jim Welsh <jwelsh at execpc.com> Subject: Schwarzbier I am planning to brew a Schwarzbier and am looking for some recipe ideas. I am a big fan of Sprecher Brewery's (Milwaukee) Schwarzbier and would love to come close to replicating it. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks. Jim Return to table of contents
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