HOMEBREW Digest #3184 Thu 02 December 1999

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		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  SHMS (ThomasM923)
   ("Bridges, Scott")
  Oxidized yeast starters ("Alan Meeker")
  More RIMS ideas . . . ("Houseman, David L")
  BJCP Styles Palm Tool, New Recipe App (John Varady)
  what to do with kegs? ("Devon Williams")
  First Wort Hopping and Hot Break removal ("Houseman, David L")
  RE: Oxidation of beer due to starters (Demonick)
  Steam Injection into RIMS (Terry Stinger)
  info correction ("Micah Millspaw")
  Budvar malt, St Pats (Mike Rose)
  RIMS comments (Jeremy Bergsman)
  Corn Meal, Kit Wine ("Jack Schmidling")
  FWH Bitterness Calulations (Eric R Lande)
  Coils in a Can ("Philip J Wilcox")
  Steam injection 212F or 250F? (Mike Rose)
  New Zymurgy Editor (Paul Gatza)
  Grain Mills (JDPils)
  carbonater.. (Regan Pallandi)
  Lubricant ("Dan Kiplinger")
  re: More RIMS ideas (The Holders)
  Re. German Pilsner ("Sean Richens")
  2000 National Bay Area Brew Off Announcement ("Bryan L. Gros")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 01:36:31 EST From: ThomasM923 at aol.com Subject: SHMS In HOMEBREW Digest #3183 Ronald La Borde wrote: "Would not the penultimate system be one with a mash stirrer, heating coil in the mash, with heated liquor circulating inside it?" Perhaps yes. It has already been built by David J. Ludwig, who calls it the Soft Heat Mash System. Check it out... http://www.us.hsanet.net/user/dludwig/webdoc3.htm Here's another one... http://home.ptdprolog.net/~jimala/brewery/ I've always been impressed with David's system and am slowly building one myself. Thomas Murray Maplewood, NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 08:09:44 -0500 From: "Bridges, Scott" <ScottBridges at sc.slr.com> Subject: Jack writes: >I have since cleaned it up and given it a coat of spar varnish but I sold my >boat because I got tired of these annual rituals. > >js Jack, You might want to consider fiberglass (for the boat, not the mailbox...). It's a great new invention which eliminates those nasty annual varnishing routines. Nothing quite like sipping a homebrew watching the sun set on <insert your favorite body of water here>. Scott Frequently aboard the "Deja Voodoo", but not today, I'm at work. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 08:09:14 -0500 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at welchlink.welch.jhu.edu> Subject: Oxidized yeast starters A few comments on George DePiro's response to my response to his post on yeast starters (lets see how many nested levels we can eventually delve into!) >Alan Meeker raises the question of the danger of beer oxidation when adding >oxygenated wort to a fermented starter that is 10% of the total volume of >the batch. This used to concern me, too. In my experience I have found >that the beer made in such a way does not taste oxidized (even though the >starter will often have noticeable diacetyl)... I will have to defer to your experience here George. Since I don't add the spent starter wort to my own batches I don't really know that it negatively impacts the flavor. Still, it seems hard to believe that adding a grossly oxidized starter which comprises up to 10% of the total batch volume doesn't have /some/ negative effects on the final beer! I'm not too concerned about diacetyl as this should be processed by the yeast during the conditioning phase. >In further defense of this practice, it has been shown in journals and by >some HBDers (AJ deLange, I think) that oxygen is very quickly consumed by >healthy yeast. Given that the yeast in a recently fermented starter is >about as vibrant as they get, they should consume the O2 in short order. I >pitch my ale worts at a cool 58-60F (~15C), which might also help in >reducing the oxidation of the starter. Hmmmmm perhaps we're getting our signals crossed a bit? What I'm worried about is that the starter is /already/ oxidized at the time of pitching, not that it will become oxidized during the early phase of the fermentation when there is some oxygen present in the virgin wort. As you point out, the wort oxygen will typically be used up by the yeast in the first 30 minutes or so during the lag phase just after pitching. (if the pitch size is adequate). Maybe we are preparing our starters differently? I grow my starter to saturation with continuous air exposure throughout so it is guaranteed to already be well oxidized by the time it is ready for pitching. At pitch it is probably as oxidized as it is ever going to get! >Since many homebrewers have good control over the environment that their >beer is stored in (cold and dark)... Yes but this will only help to stave off further oxidation from occurring. I'm worried about introducing pre-oxidized wort into my beer at the very beginning. >Letting the yeast settle out, as Alan suggests (and I used to do at home) >has several disadvantages: >1. It takes a long time, during which yeast viability may decrease. Settling can be encouraged by chilling the starter. Still, it definitely does take time... Also, while viability decreases will depend on a whole host of factors (yeast strain, wort composition, health of the culture, temp, time, etc..) they should not be very large for typical starter regimens and certainly won't be any worse than repitching yeast from a previous fermentation which is commonly practiced. >2. You are throwing away the least flocculent yeast when you decant off the >fermented starter. If you do this at each step up you may end up with a >yeast culture that floccs too early (I can't remember the reference for >this; I think it's mentioned in an old HBD or my BT article on yeast). This is true to some extent and also depends on how long you give the yeast to settle - how far towards completion you let the process go. If you select and enrich for only those yeast that flocculate fast then it could lead to problems later in the actual fermentation. The yeast could flocc prematurely leaving too few yeast in suspension to complete the fermentation or to effect good conditioning later. On the other hand, if you let the starter clear well you will be pouring off yeast that are very poorly flocculent. Getting rid of these guys could help in ending up with a clearer beer in the >3. You are throwing away yeast by decanting off the liquid from the starter >(this seems cruel to the yeast and is wasteful). Again, if you give the yeast plenty of time to settle you will be losing a minuscule amount of the total yeast. All in all, it seems to me that the major drawback to the settling technique is indeed TIME. But, I should point out that you don't have to pour off the spent starter at each step during starter production. To avoid introducing the oxidized starter wort into the beer you only have to settle out the yeast in the final step. Of course, this still take advance planning so that everything is ready on brew day and I can tell you from experience that there is nothing more frustrating than being ready to pitch and your starter yeast is only half-way settled out! >Alan's suggestion of using a centrifuge to separate the yeast from the beer >is a good one, if you have a centrifuge! I give thanks to the powers that be every morning that I work in a lab! There was some discussion a bit back about schemes for using a household washing machine's spin cycle as a homemade centrifuge - what was the consensus on this? Has anyone actually tried it?? Happy Brewing! -Alan Meeker Baltimore, MD "Extraordinary claims require extraordinary proof." -Carl Sagan Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 08:54:33 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: More RIMS ideas . . . Louis idea of using a CFC as the heat exchanger is a good one. And Heart's (or other high efficiency chillers) would be very good. But I wonder why bother with OIL as the heating medium. Even my Listerman homemade CFC will get wort to within a few degrees of the chilling water temp, and in fact I've done what Louis recommends but used my hot liquor tank as the resevoir and pumped hot water through the CFC and reached within 5 degrees of the HLT temp in the wort coming out back to the mash tun. Water works fine and most of us already have a HLT and capabilty to heat water. Five gallons of water in a HLT has a big thermal mass. Many already have a CFC. The only thing new that is needed is a second pump so one can pump the water and the wort at the same time. A good idea made simpler.... Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:00:38 -0500 (EST) From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net> Subject: BJCP Styles Palm Tool, New Recipe App Hello folks, I had to learn Palm platform programming recently (Satellite Forms), so as a trail application I took the BJCP style guide and put it up in a database application for the Palm OS. The application can be found and downloaded on my web page under the BJCP heading. The program consists of 11 screens (List, Stats, Aroma, Appearance, Flavor, Mouth feel, Overall, Ingredients, Examples, History and Comments). The List screen is a pick list format of the style subcategories (to quickly traverse the styles), and the Stats screen shows the numerical statistics of the style. The layout is in a hyper-text kind-of format and allows you to jump from any screen to another and to change records from any screen. It is freeware, but if you feel compelled to pay something for it, donate to either the BJCP or the HBD (not that I don't need more drinking money). I am also in the process of writing a complete recipe calculator for the Palm OS. At this point, I have everything but the recipe calculator portion working - (Calculators: Mash Temp, Kettle Volume Boil-Off, I.B.U., Force Carbonation, Bottle Priming; Database Tables: Grains/Fermentables, Hops, Miscellaneous Ingredients, Yeast Strains, BJCP Styles). As with HBRCP, you can use any unit you can imagine (and define your own - want to brew in Hogsheads? Not a problem!), and you can define your own Hop Utilization by boil length separately for Pellets, Whole, and Plug hops. Even though the recipe portion is non-existent, the other features are very useful. For example, I was in the brew store and was planning a recipe. Using my Palm III, I quickly recalculated my IBU's based on the AAU's of the hops the store had. I pulled up my yeast database and read the descriptions of the various Boh-Pils yeasts available from the different manufacturers to help decide which to buy. You get the picture. After I get the Palm end finished, I plan on revamping HBRCP so it can communicate with the Palm device and pass data back and forth. The benefits of this is obvious for the brewer on the move. One of the greatest features will be the ability to beam recipes between palm devices. This will make recipe swapping a breeze at the upcoming MCAB. Now on to the point of this drivel! I would like to have a few HBD readers with Palm devices to beta test. If you are palm crazy, then great. If you are an HBRCP user, then even better. If you would like to help me out with this task and earn yourself a copy of the finished software, let me know. I'd like to have 5 beta-testers for now. I should have something ready for testing by the weekend. One last note: This is a database application and as such has a lot of data in it. You will need to have about 270K free on your palm device to install the application which is aptly named - BeerInHand(tm). Thanks all folks, John John Varady The HomeBrew Recipe Calculating Program Boneyard Brewing Custom Neon Beer Signs For Home Brewers Glenside, PA Get More Information At: rust1d at usa.net http://www.netaxs.com/~vectorsys/varady Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 09:34:08 EST From: "Devon Williams" <dawg_01 at hotmail.com> Subject: what to do with kegs? Hi all, My name is Devon Williams, and I am new to the HBD. I had a keg shipping question. My brother will be getting married in August in Michigan, and we would like to brew a couple batches of homebrew for the festivities. The problem (at least I think it's a problem) is that we live in the Atlanta, GA area, and we will be flying to Michigan for the wedding. I have heard that it is not legal to check kegs as luggage due to the chance of an "explosion". I know UPS and FedEx have policies against shipping alcohol (although, I understand they will ship guns via ground...go figure). Does anyone have any advice on how (short of driving it myself) I can get these corny kegs shipped when the time comes? I have heard some buslines will ship packages in the luggage compartment... Thanks. Devon Williams Beer Belly Brothers Brewing Watkinsville, GA ______________________________________________________ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:38:29 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: First Wort Hopping and Hot Break removal Eric, You don't remove either the hops or the hot break and certainly don't try to separate them. You remove the wort from both by draining or siphoning. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 07:31:55 -0800 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: RE: Oxidation of beer due to starters From: "gdepiro" <gdepiro at mindspring.com> > ... big snip ... > In further defense of this practice, it has been shown in journals > and by some HBDers (AJ deLange, I think) that oxygen is very > quickly consumed by healthy yeast. Given that the yeast in a > recently fermented starter is about as vibrant as they get, they > should consume the O2 in short order. I pitch my ale worts at a > cool 58-60F (~15C), which might also help in reducing the > oxidation of the starter. > ... big snip ... I think that the original poster was not to worried about unreacted O2. As George points out above free O2 is consumed VERY rapidly, on the order of minutes. I think that the worry concerned the addition of already oxidized wort components. These would not be reduced (in the electrochemical sense) by the fermentation, but would just be diluted by the additional volume. > Letting the yeast settle out, as Alan suggests (and I used to do at > home) has several disadvantages: > 1. It takes a long time, during which yeast viability may decrease. > 2. You are throwing away the least flocculent yeast when you > decant off the fermented starter. If you do this at each step up > you may end up with a yeast culture that floccs too early (I can't > remember the reference for this; I think it's mentioned in an old > HBD or my BT article on yeast). > 3. You are throwing away yeast by decanting off the liquid from > the starter (this seems cruel to the yeast and is wasteful). All three of these disadvantages, and I agree that they are disadvantages, can be addressed by using the refrigerator (GASP!) to drop the yeast. It's fast and everything drops. I don't even consider it cruel :-) George, good luck in your commercial brewing. If I'm ever in Albany I will certainly sample your brews. Domenick Venezia Venezia & Company, LLC Maker of PrimeTab (206) 782-1152 phone (206) 782-6766 fax orders demonick at zgi dot com FREE SAMPLES! Enough for three 5 gallon batches. Fax, phone, or email, name, shipping address (no P.O.B.) and phone number. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:11:41 -0500 From: Terry Stinger <stinger_terry at Lilly.com> Subject: Steam Injection into RIMS I have been reading the RIMS and Steam Injection discussions with great interest. I have a one tier three vessel RIMS system. I am have tried nearly every method of heat exchange possible. 1. Electric element 2. Hot liqour tank coil exchanger 3. Counter-flow exchanger (this worked the best) 4. Steam injection (directly into the tun) 5. And finally direct heat under tun. My system has three burners and two pumps to allow me to only have one tier. The Counter-flow exchanger worked the best. The down side was the exchange water (from the HLT) had to be upto temp prior to any boosts. I have fiddled with injecting steam into my return line (from the pump to the mash tun) but I had trouble with wort being either pumped or sucked into the pressure cooker. Are you steam users out there letting the pressure cooker build upto 15psi? What happens when you blead off the steam into the wort line? Does the back pressure from the RIMS line maintain the cookers pressure or will the cooker eventually loose the necessary "push" to effectively drive the steam into the wort line? What does your setup look like and what procedure do you use? Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 07:23:19 -0600 From: "Micah Millspaw" <MMillspa at SILGANMFG.COM> Subject: info correction Louis writes; >My idea also borrows a few ideas from Micah Milspaw's RIMS >system (Micah uses a quasi-HERMS system, with the coil in a >sealed container of oil, and the electric heating element is >used to heat the oil and keep it at a constant temp (about >175F if I recall correctly).) The heat transfer medium is glycol and is kept at 240F. Tranfer rate is quite high and is simply and matter of flow rate and time. Micah Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 08:53:01 -0800 From: Mike Rose <Mike_Rose at prodigy.net> Subject: Budvar malt, St Pats Lynne (St. Pats) writes, > Budweiser Budvar Undermodified Malt is now available thru St. Pat's. > snip............ > 2) Most significantly, this is the only UNDERMODIFIED malt available for > at least the past decade. As such, this malt requires a multiple > temperature mash. > snip............ > Kolbach 37.9 Lynne, Can you give us any ideas on times and temps that Budvar uses? Thanks, mike rose Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:13:41 -0800 From: Jeremy Bergsman <jeremybb at leland.Stanford.EDU> Subject: RIMS comments All this discussion has me a bit puzzled. I have pretty much the standard RIMS. After scorching my test batch I just boosted the flow rate and I don't have heat transfer problems. HERMS etc. sound great, but mostly because they seem easier/cheaper to implement than the standard RIMS. The reason I'm puzzled is that most of the discussion doesn't address what I see as the real problem which is the overall time of the temperature boost. Lets say that whatever heater you choose can cause the output to reach a couple degrees higher than your target temperature (mine almost can) in one flow-through. If you had perfectly laminar flow through the bed you could ramp up the batch with one flow through. This is already several minutes for me, which would be fine. However you don't get laminar flow through the bed. After you have pumped 1 volume through your heater you have already been pulling stuff through that was heated once. Now you have to turn down the heat input or else you will be overheating this second volume. I estimate that it takes me about 2 volumes to mix/exchange the contents of my mash tun, which takes me 15-20 minutes. Since one of my RIMS goals was reproducibility, I don't like this. It seems that with RIMS and HERMS the real design issue is how can you pump the volume of your mash tun in 5 minutes? (Note: most of this is a non issue for 5 gallon systems. I'm talking now about 10+ gallon systems.) Dion Hollenbeck reported running his RIMS as 3 gpm, but I don't think this is easily obtainable. Any data or advice that people can offer would be interesting to me. I'm interested in the steam idea since I could add it on to my existing system but inject into the middle of the mash tun during boosts to speed things up a bit. Since the steam into the mash idea (but not the steam inline with the recirculation system) lets you in theory heat the entire mash at the same time it has a theoretically unlimited heating rate. - -- Jeremy Bergsman jeremybb at stanford.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 08:24:09 -0600 From: "Jack Schmidling" <arf at mc.net> Subject: Corn Meal, Kit Wine Can't speak for old fashioned vs new corn meal but one thing has occured to me that would be fun. We all know how great sweet corn is during the short Fall season when it is available but all we ever see as we roam the prairies of America is/are "miles and miles of bloody" feed corn. Therefore, one can assume that all the corn meal we find in the supermarket and elsewhere was actually destined for pigs or worse yet, Bud and heaven forbid... a cherished homebrew. I grow sweet corn every year and what we can't eat fresh or stuff into the freezer, I dry for corn meal. If you ever tasted corn bread or polenta made from sweet corn, you would understand why I am reluctant to squander 5 lbs of this treasure on a batch of beer. First of all, I have never ended up with more than a pound or two but the marvelous flavor of this stuff makes me want to try it some time. It has occured to me that anyone (including me) could haggle for a bushel or two at a farm stand, dry it out and try it. All sweet corn is not equal so you have to be sure to get good stuff. I know what I grow and the reason I grow it is because no one sells the kind I really like. (Burpee's Golden Bantam X) The only problem is milling it. I have always stated that the only thing you can't do in a fixed MM is whole corn but that is what the Corona was designed for. Just turn your "I Love my MM" Tshirt inside out when using it. .................. From: "Karp's Homebrew Shop" <alant at homebrewshop.com> >(It seems the only way to convince Jack that the newer juice kits make pretty good wine is to send a bottle of good stuff to him.) Just to pick I nit, I forgot what I originally said but the major debate was a response to the claim that $20 wine could be made from a kit. I have no argument with "pretty good wine" and the problem is, some inexpensive jug wines fit that catagory and that makes doing it a labor of love. I am not against that either but it was the point. >The discussion left out an important new development in the home wine market. You can now get non-concentrated wine juice to make wine from..... Well, I did mention in one posting you may have missed, that I am suddenly on someone's mailing list and have been offered this stuff several times, but I suspect the $100+ per 5 gallon batch would be a turn-off to most folks. I would use it in a minute if I could walk down the road and pick it up but I think I would be concerned about it's condition by the time it got here and what, if anything, is put into it to keep it in good condition. > Since Jack is such a giving guy himself, I plan on sending him a bottle of the Merlot I just bottled..... That's a very clever way to reduce the shipping costs. Great idea and thank you. >Either way, it's a brilliant plan on Jack's part to get winemakers from all over to send him a bottle of good wine. I applaud him and wish I had thought of that challenge first! The good news is that I expanded my wine cellar to accommodate the in-rush of expected home made wines. They will be treated with the respect they deserve and will be tasted after resting for 30 days. A complete and unbiased report will be published right here. js PHOTO OF THE WEEK http://user.mc.net/arf/weekly.htm HOME: Beer, Cheese, Astronomy, Videos http://user.mc.net/arf Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 16:41:16 -0500 From: Eric R Lande <landeservices at juno.com> Subject: FWH Bitterness Calulations In HBD #3179 Jim Layton says that he calculates the "bitterness of first-wort hops the same as I would for hop additions during the boil. For example, 1.0 ounce of first-wort hops followed by a 90 minute boil equals 1.0 ounce of hops added at start of a 90 minute boil." This makes perfect sense to me! Now I'm not a chemist or a biologist or someone who has even heard of FWHing before this discussion, but I am a homebrewer of some 4 years and I know that if you put hops into boiling wort for an hour or more you will get bitterness. Unless someone can say without a doubt that the alpha acid will somehow magically disappear because it was steeped in cooler wort before the boil, when I try this FWHing I will calculate the bitterness as if I put the hops in at the start of the boil. Jim's suggestion for getting an empirical answer to the question is to get "a group of home brewers together and do an experiment. Something along the lines of the Palexperiment should provide enough data points to lend some statistical support to the results." Sounds like he is putting out the "Bat Signal" for John Varady's expertise. In my mind though, the experiment would be to try to disprove the sound theory stated above. Good work Jim. Eric Lande Doylestown, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 17:11:57 -0500 From: "Philip J Wilcox" <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Coils in a Can For those HERMS folks and what not. don't forget about Finned tubing. Straight copper tubing is about 40% effecient in heat transfer. Finned tubing is 80%. If you scrounge hard enough you can find the stuff. The only company that I know of for the stuff is EnerTrans 4445 W. Main, Canfield OH, 44406. Its very cool stuff. Ask me for pictures if you are curious. I use mine (3/16 tube, 1/4 fin) as an immersion chiller, but I have a new one in the works that uses 3/8 tube with a 3/8 fin. Very exciting fun stuff!!!! Phil Wilcox Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 14:52:55 -0800 From: Mike Rose <Mike_Rose at prodigy.net> Subject: Steam injection 212F or 250F? Regarding the recent thread on steam injection mashes or steam injected RIMS, ( NOT steam jacketed mash tuns ) is the steam at 212F or 250F? If its 250F, how does one maintain the pressure needed? The RIMS chamber and obviously the mush tun are both vented. Thanks, mike rose Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 15:42:28 -0700 From: Paul Gatza <paulg at aob.org> Subject: New Zymurgy Editor Hi everybody. AHA has a new Zymurgy editor and associate editor. The homebrewing community has matured in knowledge and experience greatly in the last few years and one of the goals of this transition is to address the needs of more technical brewers. If anyone has any input on what they would like to see in Zymurgy in content or format, please e-mail me. Thanks. Here is an HBD-compliant version of the press release: RAY DANIELS ASSUMES HELM OF THE NEW BREWER AND ZYMURGY Amahl Turczyn Named Associate Editor Boulder, CO, December 1, 1999. Ray Daniels has accepted the position of editor-in-chief of The New Brewer and Zymurgy magazines. Daniels will be responsible for selecting content for and overseeing production of both publications. Amahl Turczyn will join Daniels as the associate editor of both publications. Daniels and Turczyn will take up their responsibilities starting with the March-April issue of The New Brewer and the May-June issue of Zymurgy. Daniels is an experienced writer and brewer at both the professional brewing and the homebrewing level. In addition to being named Beer Writer of the Year in 1998 by the North American Guild of Beer Writers, he has also published six books on beer and brewing; written over 55 articles for professional brewing, homebrewing, and beer appreciation magazines; and published multiple articles on beer-related web sites. The North American Guild of Beer Writers has awarded Daniels seven Quill and Tankard awards for his work. Mr. Daniels brewing experience is impressive as well. He has developed recipes for three breweries and worked as a brewer for the Chicago Brewing Co. in 1995. He has also brewed nearly 200 batches of beer at home and has been rewarded with more than 70 awards from regional and national homebrewing competitions. Daniels earned the Midwest Homebrewer of the Year title in both 1991 and 1994. This honor is given to the brewer who wins awards at several competitions in a range of beer styles. Daniels has also served as a judge at the Great American Beer Festival, the World Beer Championships, and the American Homebrewers Association (AHA) National Homebrew Competition. As a top graduate of the Siebel Institute Diploma Course in Brewing and the holder of a bachelor of science degree in biochemistry from Texas A and M University, Daniels is well equipped to delve into the technical and production aspects of professional brewing and homebrewing. Further, his MBA from the Graduate Business School at Harvard University gives him keen insight into the business side of the craft-brewing industry. Daniels brings a focused vision to both magazines. "The New Brewer has to deliver information that can be used profitably by the people who own and operate craft breweries," he says. "The industry is evolving as quickly as it grows and we have to keep up with both the growth and the evolution so that our readers can make both better beer and better business decisions." "On the other hand, Zymurgy fills a unique niche amongst beer publications because its audience is made up of people who are both brewers and consumers of beer," Daniels continues. "I believe Zymurgy should address the broad range of brewing and beer appreciation interests pursued by homebrewers. That means everything from brewing chemistry to brewing history as well as beer tasting and beer touring. In short, I want Zymurgy to be the one magazine for beer enthusiasts who love to brew." "Both of these publications have helped to shape the beer world in North America for many years," Daniels adds. "Clearly one of the biggest reasons that I am taking this job at this time is because I believe in the team of people that is working in Boulder right now." Turczyn is also an experienced beer writer and brewer. He has contributed articles to Zymurgy for over two years and has worked as the head brewer at the Wolf Tongue Brewery in Nederland, CO since June of 1998. He worked as the project coordinator of the AHA from May of 1997 to June of 1998, when he served as the technical editor of Zymurgy and organized the AHA National Homebrew Competition and the AHA Sanctioned Competition Program. Turczyn also compiled the book A Year of Beer: 260 Seasonal Homebrew Recipes. Founded in 1978, the Association of Brewers is a not-for-profit educational organization dedicated to the promotion of quality beers and brewing throughout the world. The Association is comprised of four divisions: the Institute for Brewing Studies, the American Homebrewers Association, Brewers Publications, and Brewing Matters. The Association is based in Boulder, Colorado, U.S.A. - -- Paul Gatza Director American Homebrewers Association (303) 447-0816 x 122 736 Pearl Street (303) 447-2825 -- FAX PO Box 1679 paulg at aob.org -- E-MAIL Boulder, CO 80306-1679 info at aob.org -- AOB INFO Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 18:32:51 EST From: JDPils at aol.com Subject: Grain Mills In a message dated 12/1/99 3:30:40 PM Pacific Standard Time, JDPils writes: << Dear Fellow Homebrewers, I am thinking of buying a grain mill and would like some feedback from the brewing collective. I am considering the JSP Malt Mill, the Rollmaster(made in Co by EMGI) from morebeer.com, the Automatic Mill from St Pats, and do not know much about the Valley Mill or where to buy one. Any user experience or advice would be helpful. I am also concerned that most of these mills use plain Cold rolled steel and the potential for corrosion. Thanks in advance, Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 10:34:56 +1100 From: Regan Pallandi <regan at esb.net.au> Subject: carbonater.. From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at ccisd.k12.mi.us> Subject: "The Carbonator" I've been waiting for the maker of "the Carbonator" to come out with a pin-lock version, but it probably won't happen. Then I realized that the gas line doesn't have to be hooked up long, just long enough to force 30# or so into the soda bottle. I could hold the gas line quick disconnect in place with my hand, then disconnect. Does anyone know if the ball-lock fittings are the same diameter as pin-lock? Would my idea work? TIA. the easiest way to make use of a carbonater if you have pin-lock fittings, is to get a T-piece, some line clips and a ball-lock disconnect, and have it running off your present gas line. That way, you can gas up PET bottles (the ball-lock and pin-lock are not the same diameter) and you can use the carbonater as a valve to purge carboys, kegs etc. For about $20 you can have the use of both types of fittings. cheers, Regan Eastern Suburbs Brewmaker 149 Clovelly Rd. Randwick, 2031 N.S.W. Australia ph/fax (02) 9399 8241 mailto:regan at esb.net.au Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 19:08:40 -0500 From: "Dan Kiplinger" <knurdami at iname.com> Subject: Lubricant I have some syringes that I use to meter out various things and they all worked like champs when they were new. Now the rubber plungers are sticky and sluggish to move. I noticed that they were lubricated with something when they were brand new (and sterile). Does anyone know what that lubricant might be? If it is so unreactive that it can be used against any known medicine that would be used in these syringes, I NEED some! Dan -- who caught the left hand glove of Jerome Bettis at the shameful loss to the Cincinnati "Bungles" this Sunday in Pittsburgh Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 17:01:20 -0800 From: The Holders <zymie at sprynet.com> Subject: re: More RIMS ideas Louis Bonham talks about a RHEMS using a counterflow heat exchanger. You might be interested in taking a look at the "perfesser" built by Bill Freeman, AKA ELder Rat. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 22:34:56 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: Re. German Pilsner Greg: I think the special 'German malt biscuit flavour' is what most of us at hbd are trying to get. I have to assume that it's in the decoction. I've had a couple of lagers taste like a Warsteiner or St.Pauli for about a week before they went dryer, so it has to be in the residual sugars. If you get it, share the secret with us. I'm going to try first wort hopping this season, can't hurt. But I think, like the Scotch ale brewers, that it's best for home brewers to fake it by boiling the heck out of a small portion - in the case of German beer, mash instead of wort as you would do for Scotch. Humorous anecdote - when I was about 14 I was visiting family in Newcastle. Out for lunch, I heard my uncle order "A Scotch". Being North American I thought, "for lunch? as an aperitif???" I was equally relieved and disappointed when he was brought a pint of beer. Of course, they call whisky, "whisky". Sean Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 21:49:07 -0800 From: "Bryan L. Gros" <gros at bigfoot.com> Subject: 2000 National Bay Area Brew Off Announcement You are invited to participate in the fourteenth annual National Bay Area Brew-Off (BABO). This year's homebrew competition is presented by The Draught Board and will be held at Black Diamond Brewing Company in Walnut Creek, CA. Here's the details: Entries must be received at Black Diamond Brewing Co. (2330 North Main Street, Walnut Creek, CA 94596) between the January 10 and January 22, 2000. Judging is February 5, 2000. Entry consists of 2 bottles and $6 fee. A limited set of the BJCP styles are grouped into eight categories for judging. Contact: Bryan Gros at gros at bigfoot.com or 510-336-3377. Web site: http://www.valhallabrewing.com/dboard/babo2000.htm Judges and stewards are also needed, and you can register on the web page, or contact me. Bryan Gros gros at bigfoot.com Oakland, CA Draught Board Homebrew Club http://www.dnai.com/~thor/dboard/ Return to table of contents
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