HOMEBREW Digest #3390 Sat 29 July 2000

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org
		Many thanks to the Observer & Eccentric Newspapers of 
		Livonia, Michigan for sponsoring the Homebrew Digest.
				URL: http://www.oeonline.com

  re white film  on top of beer- my $0.02 (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)
  South Asutralians ("Darren Darren")
  Sooky La La And His Magic Mini Keg ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  full wort boils ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Re: High priced Brewing Text recommendations (Jim Adwell)
  Alpha and Beta Amylase (Dave Burley)
  re:no sparge haze ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  re: brazing stainless/copper ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  re: Imperial Stout (Charley Burns)
  low gravity problems and carbonation delays ("S. SNYDER")
  imperial stout and yeast ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Acetaldehyde and Budweiser ("Dittmar, Robert D")
  Sorbate usage? ("Paul Kensler")
  Confessions of Two Bitter Men (Nathan Kanous)
  Dracos and his Disciples (Epic8383)
  Re: Mash Times and Temps ("John Palmer")
  Rail City Ale (Jeff McNally)
  I Love Beer ("Peter Garofalo")

* JULY IS AMERICAN BEER MONTH! Take the American Beer * Pledge of Allegiance! Support your local brewery... * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITORS on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 11:35:59 +1000 (EST) From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at Aus.Sun.COM> Subject: re white film on top of beer- my $0.02 morning/afternoon 2 days- 2 beer related posts. a wonder in itself. I cant remember the postie who wondered what that white stuff on top of his beer is? My questions is is kinda flacky? As a very young grasshopper, when racking beer i used to splash it around and add hop teas (without the water cooling). A couple of days later a white film used to form accross the top. I spoke to a freind of mine doing his PHD in chemisty, and his thoughts were along the oxidation vein. To test this idea he suggested adding vitamin c to see if this inhibited the oxidation. Well the vitamin c definatley worked, and i stopped being so rough with my beer (it was rough love and that is never pretty). I saw in the last Zymurgy this same question, and meant to write, but forgot as usual. Paul you may like to add this in if you like. A couple of other chemist types have also supported this hypothisis, and my readings always stress the importance of not adding further oxygen after yeast is added to beer. hope this helps and thanks to all the responses re my HK post. As well, look at all these lovely paragraphs! Scotty Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:49:25 EST From: "Darren Darren" <bookakurra at hotmail.com> Subject: South Asutralians Thought I'd say a quick hello as I'm heading over to Adelaide next week for a conference. Not that I'll have much time for leisure as it will be pretty busy. It would be great to have time to catch up with a few of you, but that might have to wait until next time. I guess what I'm interested in is, are there any pub breweries etc in Adelaide. Also what beers over there are worth checking out. I mean I'm familiar with all the Coopers range of course, but are there any other local brews of note that I haven't found out about over here in Victoria. Cheers Darren ________________________________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 20:27:46 +1000 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Sooky La La And His Magic Mini Keg With all this talk of drunks and DUI and prohibition, crikey joves!!, a bloke might just have to run for cover. Today, whilst Jill was out shopping, I tried on her new dress. What with the fish net stockings Eric sent me, I looked smashing if I may say so myself. Thought I might stroll on down to the Burradoo Hilton tonight and introduce myself as Sooky La La. I reckon the name has a ring to it. And to keep everyone in here happy, I'll walk back home with a helmet on! But what about the magic mini keg? I'm on to something new here, I thought someone might be interested. Dan Listermann and I have in the past championed the promotion of the 5 litre mini keg here in the HBD. I know Dan was working on his own dispenser. I have the German made one. I must admit it is hard to get around to using the little mini kegs when you are busy using cornies. But last weekend I had a need. An urgent message came through with a short notice request for some of the Baron's famous brew to be supplied at a four year old's birthday party. Not for the four year olds of course!! But for the dads. We're not that sinful in Oz, Pat. Here is what I did: I no longer use the pissy little sparklets but have screwed onto the dispenser a carbonating cap where the sparklet fitting once attached (thank the lord the thread is the same). Now I can supply CO2 from my big bottle via regulator to the mini keg for dispensing the beer. Nothing here that hasn't been done before. Of course I can convert straight back to sparklets if the need arises. But what I have never tried before is gassing up flat beer in the mini keg using the above arrangement. Usually a secondary fermentation in the keg achieves this, as per standard bottling procedures. But I had only flat beer available and the demand for it was now!! So I ran nearly five litres of flat beer into the mini, purged the head space (as best I could with CO2) , whacked the dispenser on and pumped it up to two atmospheres - don't think I'd like to push my luck much past this with these little babies - and shook the keg for a few minutes. The result was spectacular! Now don't jump to conclusions and guess that the keg exploded. It didn't. But the resulting carbonation of the beer was excellent. Somehow these little fellows pour the creamiest head I have ever seen with CO2 alone. I thought it had something to do with using secondary fermentation to carbonate the beer, but this little experiment proved otherwise. So it must be the dispenser. This is great news if you like to make a few Guinness style stouts, or any style of beer where nitrogen is used for dispensing, but don't want to bother mucking about with nitrogen. I am curious to know if Dan's dispenser achieves a similar creamy head. Anyway, this little set up proved a big hit. I didn't want to tell you I actually took a lot more beer to the party than this five litre keg. I didn't want to tell you as operator, I of course had to drink one for one with everyone who wanted a glass (and believe me, it was very popular!) I didn't want to tell you I endured a ride home rolling around in the back of the ute (along with the kegs) with an angry Jill at the wheel. I know I have stated I only have four beers a night and one cigarette, and this is true. But there are occasions when the devil gets the better of me, and this was one such occasion. I know I had a great party. I hope the kids did too! Cheers Sooky La La Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 06:58:50 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: full wort boils I'd like to thank Steve Michalak for answering questions here on the HBD, and also thank John Sullivan for making the interchange possible. I have a couple of questions about one of Steve's answers - >2. What are the best lessons from A/B brewing methods that would usefully >scale down to the homebrewer level? (ok, that you CAN reveal :^) A. I like to focus on kettle boiling and yeast handling. I've occasionally been invited to assist some home brewer in their craft and what I've occasionally seen is a rather poor kettle boil. Usually the heating equipment just cannot deliver sufficient BTUs to produce and maintain a proper rolling boil. They therefore do not coagulate as much trub as they should or evaporate the dimethyl sulfide (DMS) well. See related answer below. One "trick" that can be employed here is to use high gravity brewing. If you concentrate your wort through mashing and straining, you'll need less heat for the smaller volume. After the wort boiling, sterile water can be added to return the gravity to that desired before starting fermentation. Firstly, you say that you have seen poor kettle boil in some homebrew situations - I would agree that it is difficult to maintain a good rolling boil on a kitchen stove when doing a large volume boil. Do you feel that the Cajun Cooker type propane burners used by many of us are also insufficient - or are they adequate? One of the main reasons I (and many of us) switched to brewing outside with these burners is to be able to be able to do a full boil of all the wort while maintaining a good rolling boil. As to doing a high gravity boil and then diluting with sterile water; that is the technique used by many homebrewers doing extract or partial-mash brewing on the stove. Another of the other reasons often suggested for switching to a full wort boil technique is that you get better hop utilization. Can you comment on this issue? thanks again, Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, Fl Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 07:59:50 -0400 From: Jim Adwell <jimala at apical.com> Subject: Re: High priced Brewing Text recommendations John Palmer writes: >George asked for opinions on Malting and Brewing Science, Volumes 1 >and 2, plus Handbook of Brewing by Hardwick. >I have not read Hardwick, but I have read M&BS. M&BS are good, but it >is a lot of money for how applicable they are to homebrewing. >In my opinion, if you want a book that summarizes M&BS and is >reasonably priced, get Brewing by Lewis and Young, Aspen Publishers, >1995. It's about $40. It covers the nitty gritty details without >laboring over industrial scale practices like M&BS does. In case anyone wants to know, the "Lewis" of Lewis and Young is Dr. Michael J. Lewis, PhD, Professor Emeritus of Brewing Science at the University of California at Davis. He has a website at: http://www.brewingatdavis.com/page1.htm with articles, essays, links, and so forth about brewing ( and other things). He also has brief reviews of various brewing books. Give it a visit; well worth the time. Cheers, Jim Jim's Brewery Pages: http://home.ptd.net/~jimala/brewery/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 08:03:40 -0400 From: Dave Burley <Dave_Burley at compuserve.com> Subject: Alpha and Beta Amylase Brewsters: Brad Miller asks for additional information on thinking about alpha and beta amylase and how they relate to mashing temperatures and times. Brad, from your question, I assume you don't understand that by-in-large the beta breaks down the products of the alpha amylase's action on starch. These are sequential actions. Beta, therefore, produces glucose from the shorter chain carbohydrates produced by the alpha acting on the starch. With minor exception, beta cannot attack starch and alpha cannot produce glucose. What may also confuse you is that the temperatures often quoted are quoted like they are exact numbers when, in fact, alpha and beta amylase are active over a pretty wide range of temperatures which overlap. It is true that beta is more active than alpha at lower temperatures and beta is rendered inactive by denaturization at lower temperatures than alpha amylase. Both enzymes are more active in breaking down carbohydrates at higher temperatures, just that as you move up in temperature the disappearance of these enzymes is higher also,so there is an optimum rate of disappearance of higher carbohydrates and formation of their lower molecular products. It is these optima which are most often discussed in brewing texts. Basically, the higher mash temperatures produce more dextrins because the alpha is still around and highly active while there is less beta because it denatures faster. Ergo higher mash temperatures produce more dextrins as a percentage of the starch input. Traditional German brewing technology uses a hold at 148-149F as a "glucose" hold before going through a range of higher temperatures, ending typically around 158-162F to finish off any starch with the remaining alpha amylase. So having more than one mash temperature is not unheard of, especially in the decoction methodology. It is also common to use temperature programmed infusions. People often do not recognize that beta amylase is actually active below 149F, but the barley starch is not gelatinized and is therfore is not readily available to the enzyme. So the lower temperature of the mash range is set by the gelatinization ( ~solubilization) temperature of the starch. Rice and corn and many other cereal adjuncts have a much higher gelatinization temperature and therefore are boiled in a cereal cooker or steam flaked before bringing them to the mashing vessel. So, yes, in answer to your question, holding at various mash temperatures will produce a different set of dextrin/glucose ratios than say infusion methods or other different time, mash temperature combinations. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:38:03 -0400 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: re:no sparge haze Steve had mentioned, >>enough tannins to create haze but not enough to precipitate it in the no-sparge. << When I first read that I was thinking it said "enough _protein_ to create haze, not enough tannins to precipitate" Did you say that right? Tannin haze I never heard of. Also I was thinking that on the next no sparge batch that instead of adding tannin to get the flocculation, and nullify the benefit of no sparge technique; how about upping the dose of Spanish Moss to about 1 1/2 gram to do the job the missing tannins would have done, without the risk of astringency. N.P. Lansing Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 09:38:13 -0400 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: re: brazing stainless/copper Forrest responded >>I commonly silver-braze the two metals with good success using All-State No.155 food-grade alloy rod and their No. 110 flux. This is what I used to attach fittings to my half-barrels on my RIMS.<< Thanks, I think Grainger's carries All-State and they are 2 blocks from me. Easy enough to find. When I asked the welder again why not? he say cuz the heat runs away from the stainless. But it sounds like if I use enough heat on the stainless and let it conduct to the copper I'll get it done. Thanks to everyone that responded. It looks like I'm got it handled with all yun's help. N.P. (Del) Lansing Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 07:05:53 -0700 From: Charley Burns <cburns99 at pacbell.net> Subject: re: Imperial Stout Per Russ's recipe request, here is my wife's favorite beer: King of the Valley Imperial Stout Starting Gravity : 1.102 Ending Gravity : 1.025 Alcohol content : 9.9% Recipe Makes : 5.5 gallons Total Grain : 28.50 lbs. Color (srm) :466.5 Efficiency : 60% IBUs : 87.1 Malts/Sugars: 1.25 lb. Chocolate 2.50 lb. Crystal 60L (darker can be substituted) 21.50 lb. Pale Ale 2.75 lb. Roast (Stout) Barley 0.50 lb. Wheat Whole Hops: 2.50 oz. Centennial 10.0% 60 min 2.50 oz. Kent-Goldings 5.9% 10 min Grain/Water Ratio: 1.0 quarts/pound Strike Water: 7.13 gallons of water at 174F Single infusion Mash Temperature: 158F Sparge with 7.5-8 gallons Wyeast 1968 2 quart starter (leave it sweet) 65-70F Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 11:08:48 -0400 From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com> Subject: low gravity problems and carbonation delays Greetings drunks and non drunks (tongue in cheek): I just finished brewing an extract recipe of Theakston's Old Peculiar which should have had a gravity in the 1.060 to 1.070 range if I recall correctly. After the brewing I chilled the wort to below 80F, added water to a little over the 5 gallon mark, and pitched the yeast (XL Wyeast 1089 I believe). Then I remembered I forgot to check the gravity. It was about 1.020 to 1.030. Why the hell would it be so low? The boil was a perfect rolling boil for 60 minutes. First I steeped the grain bill for 20 minutes at 150F, then boiled that with 6.5 lbs. of extract, 4 oz. of syrup, 1/2 lb. of brown sugar, etc... I added the hops all at the right time for the right amount of time. I brewed it last night, should I recheck the gravity today? I've been brewing for 3 years now and in the last 2 batches (including an ale and a Petrus Tripel) the gravities have been lower than expected. The taste is great but the gravity is not on. - -- I also am having a problem with carbonation again. It always seems I need at least 3 weeks for adequate carbonation. At 70F it shouldn't take that long should it. The homebrew store recipe says 1.5 weeks. It's been 2 and the ale is still no even close. Do I need to add more yeast at bottling, I will if it will speed up the process. Thanks for the help. Brew on soldier. Scott Snyder ssnyder at lbghq.com "The eye seldom sees what the mind does not anticipate." Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 12:02:45 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: imperial stout and yeast Russ asks about imperial stout. I have a decent allgrain recipe (5 gallon batch) although I don't remember the hops (I used 85 IBU using Tinseth formula though) 16 lbs english 2 row 1.5 lb 60L crystal 1.5 lb chocolate 1.5 lb roasted barley 1.5 lbs flaked oats 1.5 lbs flaked barley 0.5 lb special B might be some black patent although I don'tt have my recipe on hand Used Wyeast 1056 slurry from previous beer OG 1.078 FG 1.020 in 2 weeks, secondary for 2 weeks FG 1.02, dry hopping for 4 weeks at 65F. OG was low due to a mash temp miscalculation (desired was 1.085). also mashed at 1 qt./lb ratio for 120 minutes. I batch sparge too so that is another reason. The key to big beers is lots of yeast. Use multiple packets (like 4 to 6) of dry yeast or the slurry from a previous batch (this is the way I go). I have never used champagne yeasts in barley wines or imp. stouts either. Yeasts for me that I have used and take big worts to below 1.025 are 1028 and 1056. I'm sure others work but I like these two for their characteristics. The beer was tasting excellent when I racked to keg for the dry hoping a few weeks ago. Nice and roasted with slightly alcoholic taste. very smooth too. Dry hops are 2 oz willamette and 2 oz centenial. not too burnt. not too estery. 3 more weeks left on the dry hops then taste and continue to age for atleast 1 month before starting to drink it more regularly unless I am happy with it at that time. hard to wait ya know although these kegs tend to last for 6 or 8 months of tasting every few days a wine glass full. Pete Czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 11:12:35 -0500 From: "Dittmar, Robert D" <Robert.D.Dittmar at stls.frb.org> Subject: Acetaldehyde and Budweiser This topic has been brought up obliquely before, but Steve Michalak's recent postings have made me wonder once again. I remember during the MCAB here in St. Louis, some attendees visited the A-B brewery here and were told that acetaldehyde levels in Budweiser were below the taste threshold. Steve Michalak's recent post in response to a yeast handling question mentions it again. My question then is - does anyone know what exactly it is that gives Budweiser that somewhat sour, fruity flavor? Even in my beer-guzzling college days, I could distinguish Bud from other light lagers by that unique flavor note. Upon learning more from my home-brewing, I just ascribed the taste to acetaldehyde, but the people in the know seem to have dismissed this as the source of the taste. Any one have any ideas on this? As an aside, I've wondered if Pete's Extra Special Pub Lager is made with the A-B yeast, as it seems to me to share that slightly sour, fruity taste. Rob Dittmar St. Louis, MO Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 12:30:08 -0400 From: "Paul Kensler" <paul.kensler at attglobal.net> Subject: Sorbate usage? I have a question and need some help regarding the use of potassium sorbate for preventing fermentation. I have a product labeled "sorbistat K", the label said usage is 1 tsp. / 5 gallons. It is a white substance, sort of rod-shaped pieces which float when put in liquid and dissolve rather readily. The problem is that I recently used it to prevent fermentation on a mead and a cider after they were sweetened, and it didn't work. In both the mead and the cider, fermentation was complete and they were clear when I added the additional sugars and the sorbistat K. The mead was intended to be still (now its quite bubbly) and the cider, which was force-carbonated, is insanely overcarbonated. How do you use it? Boil it? Never boil it? Does 1 tsp. / 5 gallons sound right? Does this stuff "go bad"? Any other tips on using it, or on preventing fermentation when I want to sweeten a mead or cider? Thanks, Paul Kensler Lansing, MI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 11:46:02 -0500 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Confessions of Two Bitter Men Hi All, I seem to have loaned my copy of Zymurgy with this article to someone who's managed to never return it. Has anybody got the recipes from this? Could you zap me some electronic version? TIA. nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 13:13:44 EDT From: Epic8383 at aol.com Subject: Dracos and his Disciples I'd like to see some of those 'scientific' analyses that go into determining DWI/DUI thresholds. I'm afraid Pat is right; legislation concerning hot-button issues has much more of a political motivation rather than scientific fact. Take a look at guns, the Dems are pushing for all kinds of Draconian laws when they don't enforce the existing ones, and all the evidence shows that more restictions lead to more crime! England banned just about everything, yet London police are dealing with a spike in violent crime. This is just one example, I could fill this post with others.We now return to your regularly scheduled hbd ;{). As far as the COPS reference, do you want to be arrested constantly for things that are wholly legal only to have to hire a lawyer to get it sorted out? Suppose you were in the middle of brewing and a bunch of cops pulled up, dumped your batch, confiscated your equipment and hauled you away. A minor inconvenience? I think not. You probably wouldn't get everything back, and what you did would be damaged. This is certainly the result of opinion, not law or fact. Unfortunatly, beer doesn't get the same respect as wine or liquor, and it is public opinion that drives it. If you want to stick your head in the sand and tell yourself public opinion doesn't matter or foolishly believe that your government loves you and only passes laws that are well thought out and based on fact, then don't be surprised "when they come for you, bad boys bad boys..." Gus Rappold Inwood, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 13:05:50 -0700 From: "John Palmer" <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Re: Mash Times and Temps Brad asked how additional time at Beta Amylases optimum temperature affected the mash sugar profile (in a nutshell). I am going to repeat most of his text for clarity. These were the specific questions: 1. What if you mash at 148 for 45 min then at 155 for 45min, would it make a difference if you did a 148 for 120min and a 155 for 45? Would the Beta A take care of everything and leave nothing for the Alpha A? No. Beta amylase will stop working about 3 glucoses away from a amylopectin branch joint, leaving behind a beta amylase limit dextrin. A lot of them. 2.I thought (and I've been wrong once or twice) that the Beta A broke things down further than the Alpha A does, so are there so many starches to be broken down and depending on the times at what temps would give a fermentable/dextrin ratio? It's not a matter of breaking things down further, but how it breaks it down. There are two types of starch molecules: straight chains and branched chains. Here is how I explain it in chapter 14. (I hope y'all aren't sick of these citations, but it's easier to paste than re-type) >Starch Conversion / Saccharification Rest Finally we come to the main event: making sugar from the starch reserves. In this regime the diastatic enzymes start acting on the starches, breaking them up into sugars (hence the term saccharification). The amylases are enzymes that work by hydrolyzing the straight chain bonds between the individual glucose molecules that make up the starch chain. A single straight chain starch is called an amylose. A branched starch chain (which can be considered as being built from amylose chains) is called an amylopectin. These starches are polar molecules and have different ends. (Think of a line of batteries.) An amylopectin differs from an amylose (besides being branched) by having a different type of molecular bond at the branch point, which is not affected by the diastatic enzymes. (Or, theoretically, feebly at best.) Let's go back to our yardwork allegory. You have two tools to make sugars with: a pair of clippers (alpha amylase) and a hedge trimmer (beta amylase). While beta is pre-existing, alpha is created via protein modification in the aleurone layer during malting. In other words, the clippers are in the garage, but the hedge trimmer is out in the grass somewhere. Neither amylase will become soluble and useable until the mash reaches protein rest temperatures, and in the case of moderately-modified malts, alpha amylase may have a bit of genesis to complete. Beta amylase works by hydrolyzing the straight chain bonds, but it can only work on twig ends of the chain, not the root end. It can only remove one (maltose) sugar unit at a time, so on amylose, it works sequentially. (A maltose unit is composed of two glucose units, by the way.) On an amylopectin, there are many ends available, and it can remove a lot of maltose very efficaciously (like a hedge trimmer). However, probably due to its size/structure, beta cannot get close to the branch joints. It will stop working about 3 glucoses away from a branch joint, leaving behind a beta amylase limit dextrin. Alpha amylase also works by hydrolyzing the straight chain bonds, but it can attack them randomly, much as you can with a pair of clippers. Alpha amylase is instrumental in breaking up large amylopectins into smaller amylopectins and amyloses, creating more ends for beta amylase to work on. Alpha is able to get within one glucose unit of a amylopectin branch and it leaves behind an alpha amylase limit dextrin. The temperature most often quoted for mashing is about 153F. This is a compromise between the two temperatures that the two enzymes favor. Alpha works best at 154-162F, while beta is denatured (the molecule falls apart) at that temperature, working best between 131-150F. 3. In turn wouldn't that mean that there would be a maximum amount of time you could mash and the rest after that would be a waste of time? Yes. Depending on which temperatures your mash has seen, there is going to a be a surviving ratio of Beta to Alpha enzymes as you near the end of your mash time. Once you have achieved full saccharification (or 99%) the enzymes are now working the ratios of glucose, maltose, maltotriose and limit dextrins, which changes the fermentability of your wort. If you kept on mashing, depending on what surviving enzymes you have, the sugar profile and other mash factors, you could conceivably produce a wort consisting entirely of glucose and alpha limit dextrins- which would not make a good beer. This is why the Mash-out step was invented- to halt enzyme activity for a consistent wort batch-to-batch. Hope this helps! John Palmer jjpalmer at realbeer.com Palmer House Brewery and Smithy http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/ How To Brew - the book http://www.howtobrew.com (sitemap located at http://www.realbeer.com/jjpalmer/SitemapA.html ) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 16:59:14 -0400 (EDT) From: mcnallyg at gam83.npt.nuwc.navy.mil (Jeff McNally) Subject: Rail City Ale Hi All, I was recently on vacation in VT and tried a brew named Rail City Ale. I really enjoyed this brew and was wondering if anyone knows any specifics about it (like OG, IBUs, hops, yeast strain, etc.). It is brewed by the Franklin County Brewery in St. Albans, VT. Hoppy brewing, Jeff ========================================================================== Geoffrey A. McNally Phone: (401) 832-1390 Mechanical Engineer Fax: (401) 832-7250 Naval Undersea Warfare Center email: Systems Development Branch mcnallyg at gam83.npt.nuwc.navy.mil Code 8321; Bldg. 1246/2 WWW: Newport, RI 02841-1708 http://www.nuwc.navy.mil/ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Jul 2000 19:22:14 -0400 From: "Peter Garofalo" <pgarofa1 at twcny.rr.com> Subject: I Love Beer Pat has obviously struck a nerve with his sensitivity to offhand references to "drunks," especially in the same context as homebrewers. I couldn't agree more (no sucking up here, nosirree!), and have a few thoughts to add. No wonder Pat and I hit it off so well at MCAB II! I was concerned about the direction of my local homebrew club (of which I was an officer) a few years back. Seems the "bigger is better" school of overindulging was taking ahold of a good percentage of the members. As an officer who could potentially be held legally liable if one of the aforementioned meatheads crashed headlong into a carload of innocents (I know, maybe not, but I didn't feel comfortable with the perceived risk), I exercised my right to vote with my feet. I have not been a member of the local club for about three years now, instead devoting my efforts to the BJCP. I do not like the feeling of being drunk; for one thing, I consider myself to be a role model for my five children. I also want them to understand that beer is a wonderful beverage, with a whole range of flavors (but then, so's ice cream...). In short, I love beer. I love it too much to abuse it, which I consider drunkenness to be. I can't count the number of times that I've had to explain to someone (a co-worker, business associate, someone at a party) that I brew beer. A lot of beer. And I give most of it away! In my humble opinion, beer is worth nothing unless you share it. It is the most social of beverages, and has led me to many friendships. Oh, I also like to brew for others. I've brewed for five or six weddings (including my own), several graduation parties, and a couple of birthdays. There is no bigger thrill (at least, not while clothed) than a novice beer drinker looking at me with wide eyes and saying, "You made this!?" It beats any ribbon I've ever won, hands down. Finally, an anecdote: a co-worker who is an occasional homebrewer and excellent golfer told me he has no time to brew lately. After giving it some thought, I replied that golf and brewing took about the same time, but when I'm finished brewing I have ten gallons of beer. Besides, I'm much better at brewing than golf! Of course, he felt somewhat the opposite, being a near-scratch golfer and novice brewer. I don't have to brew very well to beat my golf game... Cheers, Peter Garofalo Syracuse, NY Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 07/29/00, by HBD2HTML version 1.2 by K.F.L.
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96