HOMEBREW Digest #3448 Tue 10 October 2000
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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Any brewers in Fairbanks AK??? ("N.A. Campiglia III")
re: flow-driven stirring for immersion chiller (John_E_Schnupp)
re: Nasty, wet spent grains and freezing weather... (John_E_Schnupp)
First all-grain+First yeast culture ("dr smith")
more mash hopping (Marc Sedam)
Re: harshness in beer (Jeff Renner)
Sanitizing Rubber Stoppers (ksc58)
Mail order shops and Counter pressure fillers (Dan Listermann)
grain composting (Jim Liddil)
ginger and cider (Jessica Umphress)
Counter Pressure Bottle Filler Reccomendation (Dryw Blanchard)
Correction--Homebrewed Towels ("Richard B. Dulany Jr.")
"dry minting" ("S. SNYDER")
Glycol substitute ("Houseman, David L")
Spent Grain Disposal (Richard Foote)
Water analysis confusion (Tim Burkhart)
Dubbel ("Russ Hobaugh")
SAAZ Octoberfest ("Lenhart, Jacob")
all grain virgin (Beaverplt)
Temperature Meters (Rod Prather)
A site I found, but lost ("Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard")
Cyser....kind of. (Christopher Sprague)
Chicago Area Brew Clubs ("Mike Pensinger")
Spent Grains in Winter (Todd Goodman)
composting spent grains (Darrel Harris)
Is my juniper safe? ("Jon Sandlin")
Fw: Brewpubs in San Diego & Santa Barbara, CA? ("jwhite")
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Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 23:50:51 -0500
From: "N.A. Campiglia III" <spitdrvr at camalott.com>
Subject: Any brewers in Fairbanks AK???
I'm moving to Fairbanks in Jan 01, any brewers on here from there??
Nick
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 00:03:41 -0700
From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com
Subject: re: flow-driven stirring for immersion chiller
From: Roy Roberts <psilosome at yahoo.com>
>I've thought about inserting a Y-fitting into the
>input of the chiller to drive a propeller type
>stirring paddle with an inline valve to allow control
<snip>
>Comments or suggestions? Has anyone built anything
>like this?
Roy,
This has been discussed before on the list. I don't
recall ever hearing that anyone actually built one.
I made a stirrer that uses a DC motor. I mounted the
motor to the lid of the pot. I attached a small fan
blade to the motor. To do that I had to use some
tubing and threaded rod (I used brass). I use a variable
DC supply to vary the voltage/speed of the fan.
Direction is changed by swapping the +/- wires to the
motor. You don't need to run it very fast, just enough
to see the wort barely moving around.
Cheap ascii art follows
John Schnupp, N3CNL
Dirty Laundry Homebrewery
Georgia, VT
95 XLH 1200
| motor mounted |
|to brew pot lid|
|______ ______|
| |
| | < motor shaft
| |
|| ||
|| ||
||o|| < drill hole thru tubing/shaft use screw
|| || to attach the two pieces.
| |
| | < brass tubing
| |
||\||
||\||
||o|| < hole, same as above. If you drill several
||\|| holes in tubing you can adjust "height" of
||\|| the fan blade stirrer
|\|
|\| < brass threaded rod
|\|
|\|
_____|||||______// < plastic fan blade, attach to threaded
// ||||| rod by drilling in center of blade and
using a two nuts. Sandwich the blade
between the nuts and tighten
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 00:03:49 -0700
From: John_E_Schnupp at amat.com
Subject: re: Nasty, wet spent grains and freezing weather...
From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org>
>Do I put them in a couple of garbage bags and
>hope for the best with the Sanitation Engineering Brigade? Do I spread
>them on the street as a traction aid?
I like the traction aid idea. For myself, I just toss my spent grains
into the woods. The squirrels, birds, mice and various other varmint
probably enjoy the treat. Not often they find free food in the
winter.
John Schnupp, N3CNL
Dirty Laundry Homebrewery
Georgia, VT
95 XLH 1200
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 11:53:23 GMT
From: "dr smith" <drsmithhm at hotmail.com>
Subject: First all-grain+First yeast culture
Hi everyone - I just completed my first all-grain batch, and I
started my yeast bank at the same time. This is just a note
about how things went, what I did, and observations - if you
are looking for earth-stopping questions, page down.
I formulated the following recipe to clean up some older partial
mash ingredients had laying around:
6lbs Weissheimer Munich Malt
1lb Vienna Malt(german? or uk? - don't have specifics
right here in front of me)
1lb Munton's 2 row
4oz Munton's roasted barley
4oz Munton's chocolate malt
1oz Centennial(60 min.)
0.5oz Fuggle(aroma)
0.5oz EKG(aroma)
Wyeast Irish Ale yeast.
Notes:
I had planned an 80% efficiency(OG 1.045) and got 1.042. Infusion
mash temp was planned to be 152 and got 154 in reality. Except for
the cold and the (small amount) of rain that fell during the boil,
everything went smoothly. I did end up doing a 5/6 cover during
the boil after the big foam up, but that was mostly to keep rain
from falling into the wort. The cover didn't appear to affect
evaporation much - started with 6 gallons and ended up with 5.
For anyone out there contemplating going all-grain, I have some
advice. First, get a 38qt pot, minimum. While I was doing partial
mashes, I could start out at about 4.5 gallons(2 qts to contain
the initial foam!), but would always end up topping-up in the
fermentor. It made gravity calculations "interesting" if
you know what I mean. Now, I can do the full boil and I have just
enough space for the foam up. Also, doing some partial mashes
before jumping all the way to all-grain in one shot helps to get
the numbers in line.
For everyone contemplating the automatic mill that seems to be in
all the shops right now, I used it for the first time this
weekend and I have some comments. First, if you don't have
impulses to suddenly ram your hand, fingers first, into the mill -
remove the finger guard. I couldn't get the grain to flow past
the guard very well with it in place. Removing it was the best
thing I did. Secondly, the middle setting on the mill passes
a lot of uncrushed grain and the finest setting on the mill
seems to give the 'perfect crush' if you're milling in single-
passes. I milled twice - once on the middle setting and once
on the next finer setting. Without the finger guard, it did
a pretty decent job and I would definately purchase again if
I ever needed to.
Finally, I did culture the yeast onto some slants for future
batches. Thanks to everyone again who helped with my
questions. My pressure canner is now my favorite toy since
previously, my best attempts at making plates produced all kinds
of funky mold. Now that my techinique is down, I can finally
start plating up some bottle-conditioned beers.
--drsmith
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Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 08:24:23 -0400
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu>
Subject: more mash hopping
I've been getting some good feedback on mash hopping both
here and in other threads over the past few weeks. I've
come up with a few corollaries...
1) Water chemistry might have an effect. I'm guessing it's
related to the pH of the mash. I have very soft water and
my mashes all settle in right around 5.4. People with
similar water seem to really enjoy mash hopping.
2) A few of my MH'd beers were a bit on the sweet side.
I'm going to try bumping up the bittering charge by 1.2X to
get more bittering.
3) Leaf hops don't seem to work nearly as well. My theory
is that very little of the oils escape from the leaf into
the mash at the lower temps. Pellets work very well and the
most fervent supporters seem to use pellets more frequently.
4) Noble hops and their progeny (Ultra, Mt. Hood, Liberty,
Crystal) seem to work best for MHing. I haven't tried many
of the British hops, but the American hops don't appear to
do well.
Looking for feedback. Tell me what you've experienced.
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:20:28 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu>
Subject: Re: harshness in beer
Peter Gunczy asks about harshness in beer
I think the problem is probably linked to oversparging, especially
with high pH water. This is the most likely cause, and I wouldn't
look to the metal parts of your setup.
The amount of sparge water used is not as important, I think, as the
gravity and pH of the runoff. You should keep it below 6.0 and above
1.010 or so. No need to treat the sparge water with minerals, just
the mash water, as it is so soft that it is probably not very
alkaline even though the pH is high. Treating with lactic acid is
not a bad idea, but don't overdo it. Perhaps phosphoric acid would
suit you better.
To hit your target gravity with less sparging you'll probably need
more malt. Malt is cheap, especially when compared to beer that you
don't like.
Jeff
- --
-=-=-=-=-
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:10:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: ksc58 <kcada at cas.org>
Subject: Sanitizing Rubber Stoppers
I'm planning on using a glass container that has a 4 inch mouth
for a primary fermenter using a 1 inch blow-off. I've got a
No. 16 rubber stopper (yeah, they actually make such a thing!) but
I need to know if there's a good way to sanitize this rubber stopper
surface since this will result in about a dozen square inches of it
being in contact with the fermenting wort head. The stopper itself
is very smooth and I don't mind if it becomes discolored in the
process, but I do want it to last for numerous batches.
Iodophor and boiling come to mind, but I'm wide open for suggestions.
Regards,
Ken Cada
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 11:01:24 -0400
From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com>
Subject: Mail order shops and Counter pressure fillers
As long as everyone is plugging mail order shops, I would like to put in a
word about our shop "Listermann Brewery Supply." We have recently gone
mail order and can be found at ( guess what ?) www.listermann.com . Be
there or be square.
Warren White (warrenw63 at hotmail.com) asks about commercially produced
counterpressure fillers Down Under. Give E.S.B. Home Brewing Supplies in
Peakhurst a call at 61 2 9584 3372. They have access to the CounterPhil
produced by Listermann Mfg. Its unique three-way valve with check valve
design cut the steps required to fill bottles in half compared to
conventional designs. I don't recall Mel Robson ordering one, but he can
get one on his next order.
Dan Listermann
Check out our new E-tail stie at www.listermann.com!
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 08:32:26 -0700 (MST)
From: Jim Liddil <jliddil at VMS.ARIZONA.EDU>
Subject: grain composting
> Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 11:14:40 -0400 (EDT)
> From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org>
> Subject: Nasty, wet spent grains and freezing weather...
>
> Having been a warm weather brewer all these years, my new brewing setup
> has thrown me into a bit of a quandary: What do I do with the spent grains
> now that the lawn is frozen? If I try to compost them, they're going to
I don't have quite as big a freezing problem. But I do have a boggy
region around my compost pile. I went to the local town woodchip pile and
surrounded the pile with chips. And when I need to dump stuff I put on my
rubber boots and slog my way to it. And once "spring" comes it is a good
idea to turn the pile to get it aerated and this will help reduce the
odor. Also you can use leaves to act as layers. We ahd lots of rain here
this summer and by keeping the pile turned on a regular basis I got great
compost and little odor.
Jim Liddil
North Haven, CT
Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 10:43:06 -0500
From: Jessica Umphress <umphress at fieldmuseum.org>
Subject: ginger and cider
Greetings from a newbie!
With the first snowfall of the year pelting us folks here in Chicago on
Saturday, it seemed the best thing to do on Sunday was hunker down, get the
apartment smelling nice and malty, and brew some beer. The recipe of
choice is supposed to be a nice gingery ale (we used 3.75 oz of fresh,
peeled, grated ginger in the boil). However, by the time we'd cooled it
and wracked it to the primary the ginger flavors had disapeared. I have
two questions for the crowd here (and their inestimable wisdom): what
happened to my ginger and how can I get it back?
Maybe I should mention that this was my first purely non-kit brew. The
recipe called for a boiling hops with an alpha of 14% (we used a nice
variety called Columbus recommended by the folks out at the Brewers Coop).
Did a hops that strong overtake the ginger? Or was it that we included it
in the whole boil? Charlie's "Complete Joy of HB" suggested adding it only
in the last 10 minutes of the boil (oh the bliss of hindsight). What went
wrong and how can I add/recover the lost flavor?
In all other respects the brew is marvelous. Thanks to reading the digest
I gathered my courage and took the plunge to grain brewing and I already
know that I won't be looking back. The batch we concocted yesterday smells
and tastes heavenly (even without the ginger). I can't wait until it
ferments and clears and I already know that it won't last long in the bottle.
Also, per the request of my roommate (whom I feel I should indulge since
she indulges me and my equipment in the kitchen, the bathroom, the closet,
etc.) I'm investigating brewing a batch of cider. I've been doing my
reading and research but I've come across some conflicting ideas about
brewing time/techniques and rates of fermentation. Also if it's a good
idea to use pasturized vs unpasturized cider. I'm hesitant to brew
something that may be in my fermentor for 18 months (too eager to continue
brewing with grains and not enough room for another set-up). From the
posts lately I know that others are gearing up to do the same thing so it's
fresh in all our minds. Any favorite recipes/instructions/philosophy on
the matter would be welcome. Private emails are AOK.
Happy brewing to all! And for those in the Chicago/Tristate area, don't
forget the Chicago Breweries Tour coming up on Oct. 29! The Chicago Beer
History folks have put together a great tour of brewery sites that sounds
like lots of fun (and it includes yummy perks like free coffee and rolls
beforehand and free beer and sandwiches afterwards). Go to their website
and check out the details (and I'm not affiliated in any way, just really
excited about it!)
http://www.chicagobeerhistory.com/ChicagoBeerTours.htm
Cheers!
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Jessica Umphress
Assistant Developer, Exhibits
The Field Museum of Natural History
T: 312. 665. 7332
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 08:46:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: Dryw Blanchard <dryw9680 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Counter Pressure Bottle Filler Reccomendation
I would like to buy a counter pressure bottle filler
so that I can start entering some competitions. I
have searched the internet and been on many mail order
catalog sites. I have never used a counter pressure
bottle filler, and I don't know which model to buy. I
would like to know what the collective group of
fillers recommends.
Dryw Blanchard
Chicken Sh*t Homebrew
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Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 09:58:53 -0600
From: "Richard B. Dulany Jr." <RDulany at co.el-paso.tx.us>
Subject: Correction--Homebrewed Towels
The CORRECT link to Midwest Suppy is:
www.midwestsupplies.com
Note that "supplies" is PLURAL. The (incorrect) link I provided is for a
towel suppy place. Sorry everyone.
Richard "just a sloppy proofreader" Dulany
El Paso, TX
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 12:58:19 -0400
From: "S. SNYDER" <SSNYDER at LBGHQ.com>
Subject: "dry minting"
Greetings all,
Thanks for all the info on the Alaskan Brewing Company recipes. I'll be
trying them soon (as soon as my basement gets to lagering temps) and I'll
let you all know how it turns out.
I recently brewed and racked a "Mocha Java Stout" a recipe I got from the
Cat's Meow:
7 pounds, Glenbrew Irish Stout Kit
1/4 pound ( 1 cup ), Flaked Barley
1/8 pound ( 1/2 cup ), Black Patent Malt
1/2 ounce, Fuggles hop pellets (bittering - 60 min)
1/2 ounce, Fuggles hop pellets (flavoring - 10 min)
4 ounces, Ghirardelli unsweetened chocolate
2 cups, Brewed Coffee (Monte Sano blend)
1 package, WYeast #1084 Irish Stout Yeast
3/4 cup, Corn sugar
My differences were:
8 lbs Mountmilleck Irish Stout kit
bittersweet chocolate
8 cups Starbucks coffee
OG: 1056
Racking Gravity: 1024 (after 5 days)
FYI: My 1084 XL pack didn't rise by the time I had to pitch it, but it still
fermented out in about 5 days.
Upon racking to the secondary I tasted the brew and it was quite good. With
the chocolate taste I thought adding mint might be worthwhile. I would like
to tinker with maybe half of the five gallons. I was thinking of bottling
half then adding some mint leaves to the 2.5 gallons still in the secondary
for a week or two, a sort of "dry hopping" or "dry minting" if you will. Has
anyone ever tried something like this? Will it work? I don't want to ruin
the beer but I wanted to compare "minted" versus "unminted".
Another concern about "dry minting" would be sanitation since the mint
leaves are coming from my garden. TIA,
Scott
ssnyder at lbghq.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 14:36:11 -0400
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: Glycol substitute
With pure glycol being expensive why could not one just use automotive
antifreeze in a ratio with water that assures that it won't freeze at
freezer temperatures? Ten gallons of this isn't cheap either but probably
cheaper and easier to obtain than glycol for the average homebrewer?
Dave Houseman
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 14:59:12 -0400
From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com>
Subject: Spent Grain Disposal
Pat asked: What do I do with the spent grains now that the lawn is frozen?
If I try to compost them, they're going to smell really, really bad when
they thaw in the spring.
When I was brewing up in the Great White North (Vermont), my roomate and I
used to just dump 'em out on top of the snow. The warm pile would sorta
settle down and the next snow would cover them and you would not see them
again until spring. Did not seem to be a problem back then. Course, we
just rented and maybe did not care as much.
What I do with mine now in GA, is gather up my fall leaves and place them
in my compost enclosure. I really cram in all I can. After each brew, I
dig down in the leaves, dump the spent grain and cover with leaves.
Remember it's best to save some for spent grain bread BEFORE dumping in
your compost pile.
In the north, you may want to start at the bottom and work your way up to
avoid having to dig through frozen clods. Alternatively, stockpile the
leaves to the side (probably better) and build your pile in layers as you
go--leaves, grain, leaves, grain and so on. A hoop of 1" x 4" wire will
contain your leaf stockpile and compost for that matter.
The key to avoiding a smelly awaking come spring is enough
bulky/carbonacious material to counterbalance the wet/nitrogenous material.
Heck, farmers down here in the "Poultry Capital of the World" even compost
dead chickens, alternating layers of chickens (hopefully dead at the time
or darn close to it--"Bring out your dead!" [clang] "Bring out your dead!"
[clang]) and straw/hay in bins made out of wood shipping pallets for sides.
"Works great, less filling."
Hope this helps,
Rick Foote
Whistle Pig Brewing and Home Composting
Murrayville, GA
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 14:10:05 -0500
From: Tim Burkhart <tburkhart at dridesign.com>
Subject: Water analysis confusion
After reading various texts and searching the HBD archives I'm now confused
on some water analysis issues. I am simply trying to make sure that my water
is fine for brewing pales, browns and porters without mineral additions. I
am also reviewing my process with acidifying mash and sparge water with
lactic acid... ie. I think I have been over doing it... producing a distinct
sourness and twang that wasn't there until I started acidifying both mash
and sparge water.
Johnson County Water District 1 (My brewing water source / filtered through
PUR charcol filter)
- -----------------------------------------
Calcium Hardness (Ca)= 94.00
Magnesium Hardness (Mg)= 36.00
Sodium (Na)= 47.60
Sulfate (SO4)= 150.00
Chloride (Cl)= 37.10
Carbonate (CO3)= 38.00
Total Hardness= 137
Alkalinity= 53
PH= 9.4
Total dissolved solids= 356
- -----------------------------------------
- Is "Calcium hardness" different from the "Calcium" content I'm looking for
in my water analysis?
- If it is different, how do I figure the actual calcium content?
- With my PH at 9.4 (but taking Ca and CO3 in mind) do I need to acidify the
mash water down to 7?
- Do I need to mess with Gypsum or any other mineral addition?
- Should I take the "anal" out of analysis, relax and brew with the water as
is... while still acidifying the sparge water?
TIA,
Tim Burkhart
Kansas City
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 15:15:11 -0400
From: "Russ Hobaugh" <Russ_Hobaugh at erm.com>
Subject: Dubbel
I am looking for some pointers on my first all grain Dubbel. After
doing my homework, I have come up with the following recipe. Those
of you who enjoy brewing and drinking Belgian beers let me know if
I am close or how to correct this.
9.5# DWC Pilsener malt
1# DWC Biscuit
1# DWC Aromatic
8 oz. Caramunich
8 oz. DWC Special B
Mash at 148 for 1 hour, 159 for 30 minutes, 165 for mashout.
Add 1# candy suger at start of boil, 1oz styrian goldings and half oz of Saaz
for 60 minutes. 1/4 oz of Saaz at 15 minutes and 2 minutes.
Some questions: are there enough hops for a balanced beer?
What type of secondary? I have read that 2 weeks is fine, up to 6 or 8, and
at temps. from 68 down to 40. What does the collective recomend?
Off list is fine for any corrective actions I might need to take. TIA
Russ Hobaugh
Goob' Dog Brewery, Birdsboro PA
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Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 15:56:35 -0400
From: "Lenhart, Jacob" <jlenhart at harris.com>
Subject: SAAZ Octoberfest
SAAZ, the Home Brewing Club of Brevard County, Florida, is hosting its annual
Octoberfest Celebration Saturday, Oct. 28. Home made bratwurst, German potato
salad, and lots of good beer will be served. Cost for non-club members is $5.
SAAZ Octoberfest
October 28, 2000
1PM - 9PM
Rotary Park -- US 1 and Suntree Blvd.
For more information contact
Bob Bennett: (321)724-1312
Ron Snell (321)724-0564 or The81union at aol.com
Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 12:57:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Beaverplt <beaverplt at yahoo.com>
Subject: all grain virgin
I recently posted a problem that I had with my first
grain batch (an oatmeal stout) dealing with low
initial SG. I received several helpful e-mails that I
want to thank everyone for. I recently transfered the
batch into a secondary fermenter and took another
reading. My second reading after 10 days in the
primary was the same as my initial reading. I've never
had that happen before so I'm assuming that my initial
reading was wrong (or perhaps homebrew impaired). Of
course, I drank what I drew off for the reading. It
seemed to have the flavor it should at this point. Now
I can't wait to bottle it.
Now a problem. I received a private email from a very
helpful person in Florida offering to run my recipe
through his software. I brought the recipe in to send
off and found that I had deleted rather than saved the
message. My memory has more holes in it than my
lauter-tun, so if I could ask that you email me again
I'd appreciate it.
Beaver
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Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 16:26:31 -0300
From: Rod Prather <rodpr at iquest.net>
Subject: Temperature Meters
Found a cool temperature meter with a K type thermocouple. The price is
what is cool, $29.00. ($25.00 for 10 or more but who needs 10) More
interesting is that the thermocouple is not permanently attached. It is
connected to the unit with a standard two prong thermocouple connector
so it would be easy to replace.
It's from a company called Circuit Specialists. You can look at it at
http://store.yahoo.com/webtronics/m-902c.html
No affiliation yada yada yada.
- --
Rod Prather, PooterDuude
Indianapolis, Indiana
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Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 18:14:07 -0400
From: "Shane A. Saylor, Eccentric Bard" <taliesin2 at earthlink.net>
Subject: A site I found, but lost
I had found a site that lists all the legalities of home brewing of each
state.
I think I found it through http://.www.beertown.org/ But I have been unable
to find it again. Any help appreciated.
- --
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cure it, and every person a mission. This is the Indian theory of
existence. --Mourning Dove, 1888-1936
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Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 20:14:07 -0400
From: Chris at umit.maine.edu (Christopher Sprague)
Subject: Cyser....kind of.
Ok, I'm all excited about my latest homebrewing expirament. I've been
meaning to make a good fall cider, and after a bit of research, one
thing led to another and I ended up doing something either crazy or
ingenius.
Here's the deal: Today was my scheduled day to rack my 7 week old Mead
to secondary (6.5 gallon). Before I did it, a few things struck me;
1) Many cider recipes call for the addition of honey.
2) Many cider recipes call for champagne yeast, which I used in my mead.
3) A few cider recipes suggested putting your cider onto yeast cake
from another finished batch of something.
I put them 2 and 2 together and got a great idea. Without thinking it
through, I just went ahead and racked my mead - all but the last half
gallon or so, and poured my cider mixture (5 gal. cider, 1.5lb brown
sugar, yeast nutrient) on top of the leftover mead and yeast cake and
attached blowoff hose. I got foam-over within 2 hours.
I just want to know...has anyone else tried this?
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Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 20:59:47 -0400
From: "Mike Pensinger" <beermkr at bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Chicago Area Brew Clubs
I will be spending all of Decmber trhough March in Great Lakes IL (North of
Chicago) and was wondering if there were any clubs in that area that I could
attend meetings with and/or get in on a couple group brewing sessions. I
will not be abale to bring my equipment but can certianly provide the
ingredients. I am an aall-grain brewer but do some extract batches here and
there.
Private email is welcome.
Mike Pensinger
beermkr at verizon.net
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Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 10:54:52 -0400
From: Todd Goodman <tsg at bonedaddy.net>
Subject: Spent Grains in Winter
In HBD #3447 Pat wrote:
>
> Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
>
> Having been a warm weather brewer all these years, my new brewing setup
> has thrown me into a bit of a quandary: What do I do with the spent grains
> now that the lawn is frozen? If I try to compost them, they're going to
> smell really, really bad when they thaw in the spring - besides, the
> compost area of my yard is pretty dangerous in the winter - either so
> boggy you can't pull your feet out of the mud, or so icy you'll overshoot
> your target by a mile or so. Do I put them in a couple of garbage bags and
> hope for the best with the Sanitation Engineering Brigade? Do I spread
> them on the street as a traction aid?
>
> There's lots of us in the Frozen Region. What are some of the methods
> you've used to deal with this problem?
I've always just dumped them in my compost pile. They've never ended up
smelling by the time spring comes around (but the pile is around 30 feet
from the house). I think the deer might even be eating some before they
freeze solid.
I'm not sure if you were going to leave the bags in the house but I
wouldn't. Even after one week, spent grain and hops in a semi-closed
container (small trash can) grow an amazing population of mold.
Todd
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Date: Mon, 09 Oct 2000 20:06:45 -0600
From: Darrel Harris <deharris at home.com>
Subject: composting spent grains
As queried by Pat B.....
I've built a composting structure out of 4 discarded wooden pallets. All
my lawn clippings, leaves, spent grains, hops, kitchen waste go in all
year round. In the springtime, I am rewarded with a lovely black humus
that my growing beds thrive on all summer.
Darrel Harris
Southern Alberta
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Date: Mon, 9 Oct 2000 21:01:12 -0700
From: "Jon Sandlin" <sandlin at bendcable.com>
Subject: Is my juniper safe?
I am planning on using some of the local juniper twigs around my house for
lautering my next batch of beer. I am curious, is the western juniper found
here in the Bend, OR area safe to use in beer? Hopefully somebody in the
collective can give me some insight. Thanks in advance for your help.
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Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 01:01:15 -0700
From: "jwhite" <jwhite139 at home.com>
Subject: Fw: Brewpubs in San Diego & Santa Barbara, CA?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: jwhite
To: post@hbd.org
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 10:36 PM
Subject: Brewpubs in San Diego & Santa Barbara, CA?
I've got some business on the west coast this upcoming week and all the
travel from the east to west coast makes me thirty! Anyone have
recommendations for few good brewpubs, excellent restaurants, etc. to visit!
Due to time limitations I probably won't be able to drive lots of miles
outside of the downtown locations I'm staying in, but send me your
suggestions!
Thanks
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