HOMEBREW Digest #3518 Mon 01 January 2001

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  Gusses as to composition of a brew? ("Dave Howell")
  Cloning Samichlaus (Drew Beechum)
  Re. Pete's Flow questions/Brewing in Space/ Cu Chiller cleaning/ (John Palmer)
  Re Aussie Insults ("Grant Stott")
  Reply to "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> (Furrybeer)
  Replies (craftbrewer)
  Mixing Fruit, Pommes And North Queenslanders ("Phil & Jill Yates")
  oxidized beer (Warandle1)
  Lambic pitching schedules (Keith Busby)
  Samiclaus (Dan Listermann)
  Re: Samiclaus (mchahn)
  Castaway brewing ("Sean Richens")
  Bruschetta ale, bock (Tom Smit)
  RE: electric HLT ("Stephen Alexander")
  Hops and horses... (Some Guy)
  TPOS, Guinness tang & Stout recipe ("Glen Pannicke")
  Phil's Bottle filler (JDPils)
  BrewSource .2 (DRC5522)
  Wort Aeration ("Greenly, Jeff")
  Time to brew a stout, revised... ("Greenly, Jeff")
  Ancient history beer tastes (Jim Wilson)
  Thanks to HBD, Pat, Karl ("Al Beers")
  microwave RIMS? ("Rick Wood")

* * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * * Happy New Year 2001 from all of us at HBD.ORG! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 21:55:33 -0700 From: "Dave Howell" <djhowell at qwest.net> Subject: Gusses as to composition of a brew? All: Wow, I posted three times in one day! I've gotten the sickness, too... SWMBO bought some lager for me the other day, since she shipped so much of mine around the world (OK, just the US), to friends and relatives that I had none left but an ale style *I* don't like, but others do (brown Christmas ale). It's (the lager) called Dundee's Classic Lager, and it's from somewhere in New York. It tastes initially of something caramelized/burnt, like toasted barley/wheat, then fades into a classic adjunct profile (corn), then lingers with a nice bitterness. Moderately refreshing, lively, medium-dry, about 28 IBU? But, I cannot identify any of it for sure. Can anyone make a guess as to it's composition (malt grist bill, hops type, yeast?). I'd love to brew some (later, I've used up a whole mess of beer bullets lately). Thanks a gazillion, Dave Howell Somewhere amidst the Arizona cactus and mesquite, it's winter, and the desert dweller's fancy turns to thoughts of golf... Costello: You know I'm a catcher too. Abbott: So they tell me. Costello: I get behind the plate to do some fancy catching, Tomorrow's pitching on my team and a heavy hitter gets up. Now the heavy hitter bunts the ball. When he bunts the ball, me, being a good catcher, I'm gonna throw the guy out at first. So I pick up the ball and throw it to who? Abbott: Now that's the first thing you've said right. Costello: I don't even know what I'm talking about! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 22:17:27 -0800 (PST) From: Drew Beechum <Drew.Beechum at disney.com> Subject: Cloning Samichlaus Okay.. so our club, the Maltose Falcons, and specifically our president (Kevin) got bored and decided to try and fil the void (now refilled professionally) so here's the version that we brewed a few weeks ago (~ Dec. 6) (This is straight from the Maltose Falcons website at http://www.maltosefalcons.com/) without further ado : Falconsclaws (for 5 gallons) Pilsner Malt German 25.75 lbs Crystal 65L German 3.0 lbs Vienna Malt American 1.50 lbs Amber Dry Extract Royal 1.0 lb Dark Candy Sugar Belgian 1.0 lb Mash - 1.2 qt/lb First rest - 124F Second rest - 154F Mash out - NO SPARGE Styrian Goldings Whole 4% AA 1.75oz 60 min Hallertauer Mittelfruh Whole 3.8% AA 1.5oz 15 min Hallertau Hersbrucker Whole 2.3% AA 0.50oz 2 min Yeast : 2 Qts. Wyeast #2206 - Bavarian Lager : Once that dies (and it will) we hit with Dry Sherry Yeast to finish. This is a No Sparge Beer Collect ~6.5 G and boil for 90 minutes We did this and got a beer that was an 1.139 OG and made a second runnings beer that was ~1.040 (10 G). The last version was uncorked at the brew and this years version will be ready in December 2001. Cheers - -- Drew > Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 10:07:37 -0500 > From: Alan Monaghan <AlanM at Gardnerweb.com> > Subject: Samichlaus Recipe > > Having just found out that this wonderful beer is being made again, I don't > have to be quite as careful with how I share and enjoy it. > My problem comes in that I really, really like this beer but I have > absolutely no idea how to start on the road to replicating the beer itself. > In looking thru the archives and out on the net, there is very little to > start with. > I was hoping that someone out there may have had some luck with one of their > recipes or even better, some type of discussion on a starting point with the > malt bill and the hopping. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Dec 2000 22:56:20 -0800 From: John Palmer <jjpalmer at gte.net> Subject: Re. Pete's Flow questions/Brewing in Space/ Cu Chiller cleaning/ (need to repeat the questions) RE: Homebrew Digest #3489 (November 28, 2000) >You make some conclusions based on your experiments with the corn and piped >manifolds as well as false bottoms. #4 conclsuion for false bottoms has to >do with too high a lautering rate and bed compaction with a false bottom. >Do you also see this to the same degree with a proper manifold design. >Since the bed is probably not compacting to the same degree in the volume >surrounding the manifold compared to the bed volume surrounding the false >bottom? Anecdotally, I recall very few stuck sparges with manifolds, but it seems to be an almost common problem with false bottoms. No certified data though. While I myself have experienced an occasional poor extraction, I have never had a stuck sparge with my manifolds. My best guess on why this is, is that false bottoms - under high flow rates - can uniformly compact the grainbed, leaving no path for flow. Manifolds do not draw as uniformly, so if and when compaction occurs, another flow path becomes available elsewhere. >Which would have a more negative impact on extraction or stuck drainage - >false bottom or manifold? Hmmm, if I understand the question right, I would say that the propensities are: #1 Stuck sparge due to too fast a flow rate thru a false bottom (ie. compaction). #2 Lower extraction from a manifold system low area coverage (ie. inadequate design). #3 Lower extraction from a false bottom due to compaction. #4 Stuck sparge with manifold due to compaction. >I would think that the higher drainage surface area of the false bottom >would allow better extraction but perhaps its infact worse since a larger >part of the grain bed may be compacted? Don't know but perhaps your dye >experiments could identify this at high rates. Flow rate is an important parameter. The recommended rate is no more than 1 quart a minute. (I forget how we the HBD derived that number but I am thinking that it may come in part from this posting of Darryl Richman's (which I still have saved on my Mac). Posting 4: Extracted from file: 1506 Date: Wed, 17 Aug 94 10:31:47 PDT From: Darryl Richman <darrylri at microsoft.com> Subject: RE: Lautering gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix) writes: > I do not believe optimal run off times scale well with respect to brew > volumes. A striking case in point is provided by the recent article One of the interesting things I learned while researching "Bock", and which I included in the book, is that the folks at Weihenstephan have a general recommendation for lautering decoction mashes at a pretty slow rate, which is based on the surface area of the lauter tun (assuming a uniform depth and a uniform drainage). By specifying the rate per square area, they are really describing a particular flow rate of fluid through the bed. The rate recommended was approximately 1 gallon / (6 minute * square foot) to start, speeding up to 1/4 as the wort thins out. (I'm quoting from memory, always a dangerous thing.) These figures are quoted from volume 2 of Narziss' "Die Technologie der Bierbereitung". Also, Narziss indicates a shallower bed for decoction mashes than Hough et al in "Malting and Brewing Science" do for infusion mashes. > "Lautering: Back to the Basics" which appeared in MBAA Tech. Qr. > (Vol.30, No.3, 1993). The authors are senior brewers at Millers, and > they describe their lautering procedures in detail. There is much here > of conceptual interest, their intriguing mash up/vorlauf procedure being > a case in point. However, their flow rates, which range from 700-750 bbls./hr. > for the first wort to 900-1000 bbls./hr. during sparging, are of zero relevance > for us. Their batch size is 1100 bbls., and they collect 1200 bbls. of sweet > wort to get this. Counting up the times quoted their total time is near 120-130 > mins. It would be interesting to know how their flow rates compare to those suggested by Narziss. One might expect a mixed mash system such as Miller/AB/Coors employ to behave more like a straight infusion than a decoction, since most (90% or so) of the barley malt husks do not undergo boiling. --Darryl Richman >Have you ever thought about generating a residence time distribution based >on color/adsorbance of the liquor threough the bed for different lautering >rates to determine how much back mixing is going on to effect the simplistic >modelling of the bed as plug flow? Ummm, no, but it's a good idea. The best I have done is to take pictures of the test bed at intervals to show where color was and was not. Unfortunately those pictures were snapshots that were not labeled and I no longer can tell which is which. I need to redo most of the early experiments anyway for an article I am working on, so I can capture that idea better. // Pete Calinski and Paul Claassen gave a good rundown of the problems with brewing in space and being in the aerospace industry in general. I spent 7 fairly enjoyable years on the Space Station project and there were several of us homebrewers that would chat about the difficulties to be faced in making Atomic Oxygen Ale, RAD Lager, and ImpeachThatCongressman Wheat beer. Well done. Did you know that the ISS when completed will have a large degree of curvature due to differences in thermal expansion from the sunside to the backside? We in Materials and Processes were supposed to help Passive Thermal fix that problem. I think we got it half fixed. We'll see. // Keith: Use vinegar to get it relatively shiny, and rinse it well before use. You don't need to age it at all. Bright copper will turn to dull copper with use. Dark copper will come off in the wort, so that's why you should clean it, but don't get it mirror bright because that will put copper in the wort too. Go for dull. Dave: Whatever possessed you to put hot caustic and hot phosphoric thru a copper chiller? Egad, no wonder it choked. Those solutions are way too aggressive for copper, I wouldn't be surprised if you put holes in it. For cleaning organics from copper, use PBW (but not as a long soak). For cleaning heavy oxides, use vinegar. For sanitizing, use iodophor. Starsan is rather aggressive to copper due to its phosphoric content. // Cheers! John Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 07:58:01 +1100 From: "Grant Stott" <gstott at primus.com.au> Subject: Re Aussie Insults Tony Barnsley said >"! I am NO >POMME!! I'm welsh through and through (And yes I know that creates a whole >load of other problems!! :> ) This statement has to be viewed with suspicion as both first and last names are pronounceable. He then goes on to say >"Is it true that most of the Australian transportees were >sent over because >they were bad brewers? Or is that a scurrilous rumour? This is absolutely true. The ones that refused to learn from their mistakes became brewers at CUB. XXXX. Toohey's etc. Those who were repentant for their past sins & were willing to learn became the best all-grain homebrewers in the world. Grant & Yvonne Stott Geelong Vic Australia Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 03:33:51 EST From: Furrybeer at aol.com Subject: Reply to "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> From: Scott Vernon, Melbourne, Australia <Furrybeer at aol.com.au> Subject:Reply to "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> (Time to brew a stout...) Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 Jeff, Greetings from Melbourne, (Downunder) Australia.... You have asked for some advice with respect to 'Rusty Nail Oatmeal Stout' recipe. Looks good. What is the volume (in Litres)? Recheck your IBU calculations, 25 appears to be a little low (especially if the 2 oz Northern Brewer at 8.5 (60") are hop pellets). Secondly, you will need to mash the Oatmeal with cracked malt that has high diastatic activity (greater than 110 degrees Linter). Refer to Charlie Papazan's "The Home Brewers Companion" page 44; MALT TABLE for malt selection. Mashing is required to convert the starches into fermentable sugars. Also if you want fermentable extract from the roasted barley and the black patent malt you should mash these grains as well. Without mashing you will obtain the colour and the flavour from these grains but not a contribution to the OG. For each pound of cracked malt grain used reduce the amount of Munton's Amber DME by 8 ounces. Happy brewing!! Cheers, Scott Vernon, Melbourne, Australia. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:16:12 +1100 From: craftbrewer at telstra.easymail.com.au Subject: Replies G'day All Well it was written >>From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Jeff Renner kindly offered : > For those of you in Oz and other > warmer climes who are lacking the snow necessary for a >traditional northern hemisphere mood, I have large quantities >available at only $1.00/lb. FOB Ann Arbor plus shipping and >handling, insulated packing and dry ice extra. Now while this would be very appropriate as after a recent hot spell my tap water is running at 30 Deg C, I am afraid that I can buy ice for only $0.50/lb at my local service (ie gas) station.<<<<< Now Dear Jeff is offering us ice at $1.00US dollar/lb PLUS packaging and we can buy it at (with exchange rates) at 25 centsUS/lb. Now mate you MAY THINK your the centre of the brewing universe, but its obvious you couldn't even sell baby oil to a pros.. ...opps cant go there thats right. But Jeff, I have wonderful bottled HOT North Queensland climate here I am willing to trade. Tell you what you send the snow over and I return the packaging full of that wonderful air. >>>>Date: Thu, 28 Dec 2000 08:05:12 -0600 From: "steve lane" <tbirdusa at hotmail.com> Subject: filters Are there any good working designs out there for a home made filter plate or other device for filtering beer? Anybody tried to build one?<<<< Yes I have done just that built one myself. based the design of a very small pool filter, with sand and DME. Works like a charm. Will give you a web page soon where you lot can see it. Any good ideas on what to do with a corny that has a 24 inch split up its' side? How is this material for welding?<<<< Also done this. Corny kegs can be rewelded easily. Take it to any good welder with a tig/mig set up. Good welders will tap it up so inert gas fills the inside, that way you get a smooth weld. But I leave the worst for last I just cant seem to shut up that pesty cockroach From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> At the height of it Graham Sanders came out of the closet and declared himself to be Australian (though the rest of us have never accepted this). And just when the fire seemed to be dying down Graham sprayed it with high octane fuel and it was all on again. Oh it was a horrible mess. Never mind<<< Thats it you bast+rd. I'm taking you to court. Now you have had minor victories with your croat builder, but mate, you now face the wrath of a Nth Qlder. Yes you should tremble at the thought of being sued by me. You will be summoned to appear before me to explain your actions, although I fear your content free mind will have nothing to say. And to correct the facts, I'm a Nth Qlder, you so called Aussies are a pale imatation of what a true blue should be. But you have let slipped on one thing. >>Just after New Year Doc Pivo will be back at Burradoo Estate for a combined brew day. I am going to let him run the show and we will be creating one of his much loved Czech pilsners. ......Of course Wes Smith will be here and hopefully Dave Lamotte will make it down from Newcastle.<<< Chaps he has let it slip. He doesn't brew at all. It seems our dear Phil has other brew for him, then claims the rights to those beers. So Phil, does this actually explain your Peach wheat, or the Rice lager. And why Pomps put strawberries in their beers. Come to think of it, explains content free as well Shout Graham Sanders Oh Wouldn't want to be arround that lot when Phil, Wes, Dr P and David get together. I have enough hot air up here to content with. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 22:22:54 +1100 From: "Phil & Jill Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Mixing Fruit, Pommes And North Queenslanders Tony Barnsley has taken me to task for calling him a pomme blighter. How could I have possibly guessed he is in fact Welsh? After he poured a truck load of used strawberries into his wheat beer instead of the recommended raspberries, I might well have assumed he was in fact Irish. Now before I am accused of being a trouble maker, let me point out I have an Irish/English/Scottish background and am married to a girl whose cousin is Aboriginal. So I can say anything I like! But no where in my dubious ancestry is any mention of North Queensland. Nothing could be worse than finding out you are in any way related to Graham Sanders. And how dare he claim himself to be Australian! After all his demands for entry fees and passports and giving us southerners (not to mention you poor Americans) such a terrible trashing, how dare he! Now he has decided to take his wrath out on my peach wheat beer. In short he gave it the big thumbs down. He stopped just short of telling me I should have used mangoes instead. Graham was polite enough to suggest he wouldn't tell the HBD what he thought of it, but I knew he would only use this against me. So I have beaten him to the punch. There is just no telling with these temperamental parochial Queenslanders. Next I'm going to send him a Tooheys New cleverly disguised in a PET bottle and see what he thinks of that. Or maybe Tony could send him a strawberry wheat to really confuse him! Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 10:04:30 EST From: Warandle1 at aol.com Subject: oxidized beer Hi all, I pulled a stupid brewer's trick yesterday. I racked my amber ale (5 gal) into my corny keg. I sealed it and added CO2 to carbonate it artificially. After shaking it with the initial forced gas for 20 seconds or so I realized I had forgotten to purge the regular air out of it. So the head space contained some oxygen. I did purge after this and continued to carbonate. It is a really tasty beer. I added 0.5 tsp or so of ascorbic acid to the beer. Do you think this beer will go bad soon? How long would it take for the oxidation of the beer to occur? Two days, two weeks? Should I drink half tonight and half tomorrow? Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 09:30:19 -0600 From: Keith Busby <kbusby at facstaff.wisc.edu> Subject: Lambic pitching schedules As soon as weather permits (probably April . . .; cf. Nathan's recent posting) I intend to undertake my first lambic and kriek/framboise. There seem to be enormous variations on pitching schedules. Any advice? Pitch a neutral ale yeast with Pediococcus and add Brettannomyces to secondary? Add Wyeast Lambic blend to tertiary? Dregs from commercial examples? And when to add fruit? Rack on top of in secondary? Best wishes to all for the real millennium. Keith Busby Professor of French University of Wisconsin-Madison Department of French and Italian 618 Van Hise Hall Madison, WI 53706 (608) 262-3941 (608) 265-3892 (fax) Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 11:30:41 -0500 From: Dan Listermann <72723.1707 at compuserve.com> Subject: Samiclaus : Alan Monaghan <AlanM at Gardnerweb.com> asks about Samiclaus. If he had attended the Bloatarian Holiday Party on the 15th, he could have witnessed my attempt. Your buddy was in Cleveland at his in-laws, where were you? We had a good time. I based mine on the Clone Brews book. Five gallons, Target gravity 1.130 22.5 lbs Briess 2-row pale 1 lb Durst 60L 0.5 lbs Durst Vienna 1 lb corn sugar 1 oz Northern Brewer for bittering only Wyeast Munich Lager - one gallon starter The problem is that it sparged out about 13 gallons so I boiled over a two day peroid. The beer is still fermenting at about 50 F. I transfered to a secondary, perhaps a bit early after 1.5 weeks. It is as dark as a porter and very smokey with an alcoholic aroma. The smoke flavor does not belong there and the color is too deep. Next year I will probably double the size of the mash and do a parti-gyle for the 5 gallons. Maybe target a dark lager with the rest. Alan, you missed a great party. You will need a written excuse next year or I will cut off your brewing supplies and see If I don't! Dan Listermann Check out our new E-tail sight at www.listermann.com. Input into the anti telemarketing forum. It is my new hobby! Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 12:34:28 -0500 From: mchahn at earthlink.net Subject: Re: Samiclaus >My problem comes in that I really, really like this beer but I have >absolutely no idea how to start on the road to replicating the beer There is a recipe in CLONEBREWS by Tess and Mark Szamatulski. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 16:46:41 -0600 From: "Sean Richens" <srichens at sprint.ca> Subject: Castaway brewing Have you seen the TV program "Castaway 2000" yet? It's the British version of "Survivor" and it's unbelieviably British the way Survivor was unbelievably American. The premise is that it's not a competition. They have to work together to live off the available resources on an island off the coast of Scotland. It's cold, wet, dark and windy and of course they take it all with unflappable good cheer, and naturally alcohol. The episode I saw included a review of their brewing efforts (they seem to have been allowed some wine and beer kits). Most of them had no prior experience but "must-have-alcohol" prevailed and they went at it. Nearly all would have been undrinkable in civilized circumstances but they held their noses and drank - lots. One experienced brewess was scooping up bushels of dulse and kelp and boiled it down to extract sugar to make seaweed wine. I imagine that it was very, very clear. The only conclusion that I could draw is that the British success at empire-building resulted from their never having drank the local water, preferring beer, gin, port, or the local hooch and thereby avoiding dysentery. Sean Richens srichens.spamsucks at sprint.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 10:27:33 +0930 From: Tom Smit <lunica at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Bruschetta ale, bock Hi all, Just made a bruschetta: grist two 1/2" thick slices firm bread, usually wheat but I chose to go with rye this time adjuncts plenty thinly sliced just-picked tomatoes (tigarellas and tommy Toes) gruit bill 1/2 clove garlick, lots fresh basil yeast this was actually cleverly included inside the grist. Care should be taken as bread yeasts can cause excessive fusel alcohols. I didn't notice any of these today, though. After mashing on what is quaintly known as a breadboard it went into a kettle called a grill, on removing from the kettle I noticed a hot break of toasted looking crumbs left behind. I had wanted to do First gruiting With Intensive Treatment (F/WIT) but settled for rubbing the rather thick wort with the half clove garlick soon after the grist came out the kettle. I piled on the adjucts and the other gruit herbs. Thinking there might be a lipid shortage I added some fine olive oil. The whole mass was macerated on its way to the primary where it now sits. Primary and secondary (racking isn't necessary, amazingly enough) should take a day or so. The slurry that is left will be used to kickstart a batch of brown ale. This is the last in a series of tomato related posts. To those in the Podes (or should that be antiantipodes?) I hope this took your minds off the snow and cold you are suffering. I pitched a bock yesterday with a good size, active starter, put the fermenter inside my brewfridge (set to warmest setting, about 40F. Checked this morning, no activity in airlock. How long should it take to start fermenting? Or is 40F or so too cold? TIA Tom Smit Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 20:44:05 -0500 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: RE: electric HLT LaBorde, Ronald says.... >With my 4500 watt element running on 240 volts, it will take about 15-20 >minutes to bring 10 gallons of room temp water to a boil. Ron, I sincerely dislike contradicting one who smote the contentless Philistines of Oz, and I don't have a table under my nose, but 4500W will NOT boil 10 gallons in 20 minutes or even 40. 10gal is 37800+grams of water and the excursion (20C to 100C) costs almost 80 calories per gram of water. So you are into 3+ million calories to do the job. 1 watt-hour is about 860 cals (nice number to remember), so you need almost 3.5 kw-hours to heat the water, but a 4500W unit in 20 minutes can only supply 1.5kw-hr. To so heat 10 gals with a 4500W requires about 46 minutes *assuming* you have one of those 100% insulated no heat capacity pots that astronaut brewers use. Closer to an hour with a conventional apparatus I think. -Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 23:17:49 -0500 (EST) From: Some Guy <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Hops and horses... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... My wife's horse's vet said mixing spent grains into his feed (the horse's) is good for his digestion. He was unsure of hops. Anyone out there know if a horse and hops will get along, gastro-intestinally and all that? The reason I ask is that I occasionally mash-hop. I haven't been giving Kim the results of that because I was unsure of the hops. And Happy New Year to y'all! - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 23:22:04 -0500 From: "Glen Pannicke" <glen at pannicke.net> Subject: TPOS, Guinness tang & Stout recipe As far as TPOS is concerned, Graham, I prefer your "taking the piss out of someone" over another's "boring the piss out of someone" any day. Grain-drain & Ho-hum. It's not that difficult. If you put a hole in the bucket, whatever is in it falls out. More like common sense than partial differential equations. Glad I've got a PGDN key! Hey! I think I've got this Aussie TPOS thing down pretty good now ;-) Now for something totally brewing-related... YOU WANT THE GUINNESS TANG?!?!?! WELL, I GOT THE GUINNESS TANG!!! Add 2 ml of 88% lactic acid per gallon. The correct amount will probably depend upon your formulation, but 2 ml/gallon did it for the one listed below. I'd suggest starting at 1 ml/gal and working your way up in 0.5 ml/gallon increments from there. Here's a Dry Irish Stout recipe that I'm very pleased with. I'm a fan of Guinness Stout Draft but would like it with a little more character. This recipe is very close to what you get from the tap, but with a bit more roast flavor and hops. If you want Guinness, then cut back the roasted barley and the hops by about 1/3. You could also can the black malt to get that snow white head. Black Cat Dry Irish Stout Recipe Specifics - ---------------- Batch Size (GAL): 8.00 Anticipated OG: 1.050 Anticipated SRM: 34.9 Anticipated IBU: 54.8 System Efficiency: 75 Wort Boil Time: 90 Minutes Grain/Extract/Sugar % Amount Name SRM - ------------------------------------------ 67.8 10.00 lbs. Pale Malt(2-row) 3 20.3 3.00 lbs. Flaked Barley 2 3.4 0.50 lbs. Crystal 60L 60 6.8 1.00 lbs. Roasted Barley 575 1.7 0.25 lbs. Black Malt 600 Hops Amount Name Form Alpha IBU Boil Time - ----------------------------------------------------------- 1.00 oz. Goldings - E.K. Plug 5.00 14.7 FWH 1.00 oz. Northern Brewer Plug 8.00 22.8 60 min. 1.00 oz. Perle Pellet 5.60 17.2 60 min. Yeast - White Labs WLP004 Irish Ale Yeast Mash Schedule - ------------- Mash Type: Single Step Qts Water Per LBS Grain: 0.10 Total Qts: 1.50 Saccharification Rest Temp : 155 Time: 60 Mash-out Rest Temp : 165 Time: 15 Sparge Temp : 170 Time: 60 Additional Notes: Added 1/2 tsp gypsum. Added 2 ml of 88% lactic acid per gallon at racking ================================================== Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net Check http://pgpkeys.mit.edu/ for PGP public key 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD ================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 30 Dec 2000 23:55:30 EST From: JDPils at aol.com Subject: Phil's Bottle filler Greetings Beerlings, Has anyone using Phil's nickel plated bottle had problems with it sucking air into the line? The first one I had worked fine as I recall, but I unfortunately left it too long in bleach. The new seems to suck air into it because the syphon hose does not fit snug enough. Although its the same fit as before. IMHO the bottle filler needs about three times more length for the sypon hose to fit over. Any suggestions/comments will be appreciated. Cheers Jim Dunlap Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 00:45:17 EST From: DRC5522 at aol.com Subject: BrewSource .2 First time poster, long time lurker here... I recently found out about BrewSource in Oct. and was pleasantly surprised to find out that they're from my town, Lancaster, PA (actually they're in East Petersburg, right next door). I have no affiliation to the company other than being a satisfied customer. I can't speak about service outside the area, but I can tell you this: twice now Bucky from BrewSource has delivered product to my door, including last Friday when I was pretty doggone sick and was facing a Saturday brew day. Yes, I owe them several "thank you" homebrews. I figure if they're willing to go out of their way to personally deliver locally, they'll do a good job nationally as well. My .2 -Dave Cook Lancaster, PA now back to the shadows... Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 01:40:23 -0500 From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> Subject: Wort Aeration Hello from West Virginia, Does anyone know where I can obtain plastic or stainless steel aeration stones? I have an aquarium pump, an in-line air filter scavenged from the hospital where I work, but the only stones I could find at the pet stores and Wal-Mart were either pumice or coated paper tubes. I tried my last batch with a pumice stone, but it crumbled after one use. On another tack, could I just run the air line sans aerating stone right into the wort? Would this be effective at all for aerating, and how long would it need to be in there? Jeff Novice Brewer, and proud of it! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 02:47:02 -0500 From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> Subject: Time to brew a stout, revised... Hello, all! Thank you all for your suggestions! I spent a couple hours reading, highlighting and putting the wealth of info given to me in my brewing logbook. Based on the suggestions and comments I received, I decided that I'm not quite ready to try a partial mash. I'm trying a couple of new things with this batch already, and I don't want to get ahead of my learning curve. So, reluctantly, I've dropped the oatmeal and am shooting for a more Irish/dry style. A number of people suggested that I should not rack to a secondary fermenter. If I understand the concept correctly, racking to a secondary fermenter takes the wort off of the trub, which helps prevent off-flavors, and also helps in clarifying the wort. Now, clarifying doesn't seem to be much of an issue with a stout, but I do wonder whether I should only do the primary. Are those "off-flavors" something that I might not want in a lighter beer, but do want in a stout? On another note, thanks to all who cleared up the IBU thing for me. I believe my problem had to do with utilization; I wasn't figuring that correctly. You'll note that this is still a rather hoppy stout, at least according to what I've read. I cut the bittering in half, but left the rest of the schedule the same. I also cut the black patent malt out. As one brewer put it, "If you like sucking down charcoal, go ahead and keep it in..." I can't argue with that. I was including it primarily for color, which is obviously unnecessary. Thanks again for all your suggestions, and, for your perusal, here is the revised recipe: Rusty Nail Stout 5 Gallon Extract Recipe 3 Gallon Boil OG: 1.056 TG: 1.017 ABV: 4.5% IBU: 33 SRM: 40 Water: Filtered, no additives (my water is moderately carbonate) Extracts: 3.3 lbs. John Bull Dark Malt Extract 3 lbs. Munton's Amber DME Steeping Grains: 10 oz. Roasted barley 8 oz. 120L Crystal Malt 8 oz. Chocolate Malt Hops: 1 oz Northern Brewer at 8.5 (60") 1 oz East Kent Goldings at 5.0 (30") 1 oz East Kent Goldings at 5.0 (10") Yeast: Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale (Pitched from step-up starter- Thanks, Chuck!) Adjuncts: 1/2 stick Brewer's Licorice 8 oz. Malto-Dextrin Powder Fermentation: Primary-ferment at 65 F 3-5 days Secondary-ferment at 65 F 8-12 days Bottle with 3/4 cup corn sugar Thanks for your bandwidth, folks! Jeff Novice Brewer and proud of it! Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 08:42:59 -0800 From: Jim Wilson <jim.wilson at home.net> Subject: Ancient history beer tastes In the mid to late 50's, growing up in Tucson, I'd occasionally taste my Dad's and his friend's beer. My Dad liked Coors, which I remember as being tasteless (some things never change!) and his friends liked other brands. Lucky Lager and Schlitz are ones I remember but there may have been others. The Lucky Lager/Schlitz group had a taste I can't find today. It may have been a sweetness, I don't know. Certainly, my tastes have changed and maybe this is a profile I can't duplicate or even perceive now. I read about CAP and CACA and think maybe these beers would be similar but I know Rolling Rock (with its DMS) is nothing like the flavor I remember. Would any HBD readers have any thoughts on what these flavors might have been and what home brews might duplicate them? To all HBD'ers, thanks for your participation - this is a wonderful resource - and have the Happiest of New Years! o \o __o /\ / `\ <> `\ `> `\ > (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) (*)/ (*) I ride my bicycle to ride my bicycle. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 14:21:20 -0500 From: "Al Beers" <albeers at hotmail.com> Subject: Thanks to HBD, Pat, Karl Re: >It was 4 years ago I think that I thought of taking over the HBD from >the strangling date raping hands of the AOB. Instead I suckered Pat >Babcock into running it. >So let us give our thanks to Pat (and Karl who has also been scarce >lately) for running the HBD and taking the time to even host it from >home. Just want to thank Pat and Karl for providing us all with a great forum on homebrewing. The collective has answered many questions for me, and made me a better brewer. Thanks to y'all. Have a happy, hoppy New Year! Don't take life too seriously...you won't get out alive. Al albeers at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 1 Jan 2001 14:23:16 +1000 From: "Rick Wood" <thewoods at netpci.com> Subject: microwave RIMS? Hello All, I am interested to know if anyone has considered the use of a Microwave Oven for a RIMS implementation? It seems that is might be quite simple to use a microwave oven for temperature maintenance at least in a RIMS system, probably ever temperature boosts. Seems like a plastic coil could be placed in the oven with the prewort being pumped thru, and a temperature reading system/controler at the outflow or in the mash being used to control the output of the microwave system. Even a manual system could be done with temperature changes done manually. Any ideas or thoughts?, Regards, Rick Wood Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 01/01/01, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96
Convert This Page to Pilot DOC Format