HOMEBREW Digest #3562 Wed 21 February 2001

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  Millenium Bitterness ("A. J.")
  disposal of cleaning agents ("Phillipa")
  Schwartzbier dark malt ("Paul Smith")
  RE: The underattenuation blues ("J. Doug Brown")
  Re: polution concerns.... (b r)
  RE: Pollution Concerns ("Max Brandenberger")
  Thermometer Calibration (Richard Foote)
  Re: Dark malts in Schwarzbier (jal)
  chillzilla ("Joseph Marsh")
  Correction Re: Old Speckled Hen (Jeff Renner)
  cooler/warmer.... (Jeremy Lakey)
  re: Pollution Concerns ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  Guinness et al ("Bridges, Scott")
  Darkening a Dunkle/Schwarz ("Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies")
  Re: The underattenuation blues ("Daniel C Stedman")
  Stuck Sparge (cmmundt)
  BJCP exam schedule ("Dave Sapsis")
  BOSS Competition (david.persenaire)
  Aussie beer recipes (TOLLEY Matthew)
  Re: Pollution Concern (Travis Dahl KE4VYZ)
  Diacetyl - what is it? (Craig MacFarlane)
  fermented pepsi (acez)
  Recipe - Old Speckled Hen (Len Dmochowski)
  re: APA help ("Bob")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 05:57:40 +0000 From: "A. J." <ajdel at mindspring.com> Subject: Millenium Bitterness Someone asked a week or so ago about the bitterness of Old Dominion's Millenium. I wanted some photos of the measurement process, found a bottle of the 1997 and so measured that. The result: 58 BU. The photos are at http://members3.clubphoto.com/aj258779/Demo_Album/. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:45:32 +1100 From: "Phillipa" <backcrk at tpg.com.au> Subject: disposal of cleaning agents G'day all, In a recent digest Benjamin Edwards discusses the disposal of our cleaning and sanitising chemicals and rightly points out the environmental concerns. He suggests that they should not be dumped down the stormwater, on the lawn or down the drain. This does rather limit the disposal options. The precedence has been set by anyone with a kid who soaks laundry in bleach, napisan and other caustic cleaners that goes straight down the sewer. Dishwashers also use highly caustic cleaners and that goes down the sewer. Benjamin Edwards has highlighted a problem but now we need to find a solution which is not limited to homebrewing but the whole household. I throw my bleach solution and bottle wash solution on a different patch of ground each time I brew. We have had very little rain for the last three months and the plants are grateful for any moisture at all. I remember reading that bleach does break down over time and exposure to sunlight. If your grass is dying, store your used bleach solution prior to disposal in an open bucket in the sun for a few days before throwing on the lawn. If anyone has any further suggestions on appropriate disposal techniques? Cheers Phillipa Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 06:22:42 -0600 From: "Paul Smith" <pksmith_morin1 at msn.com> Subject: Schwartzbier dark malt Dave - I'd suggest the Carafa line of malts from Weyermann. These are roasted malts that are dehusked prior to kilning. They provide as deep a color as you want, a wonderful roast/coffee character, with none of the associated acrid taste as, say, black patent. There are three grades - Carafa III is the darkest, and comes in 600 L (typically). Because it is a "smooth" malt, I think you can really push the flap with its use and not have to worry about phenolics or harshness, as with other color malts - I have a friend who used over 10% in his schwartzbier, and it was great! Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:35:36 -0500 From: "J. Doug Brown" <dougbrown at citynet.net> Subject: RE: The underattenuation blues paul Shick writes: > The mash tun thermometer seems > accurate, reading the same as the hot liquor tank and the > kettle, both of which were calibrated with boiling water > or wort. Paul, I'm assuming that by this statement you are implying that you may have calibrated your thermometers with boiling wort... Wort boiling happens at a significantly higher temperature than boiling water. Hopefully you measured SG of wort then looked up the boiling point of a sugar solution of the same SG for calibrating with wort, or easier just calibrated with boiling water at 212F at sea level. Just my 32, err 34 cents :-) Doug Brown J. Doug Brown - Fairmont, WV Software Engineer at ProLogic, Inc. mailto:dougbrown at citynet.net mailto:dbrown at prologic-inc.com http://members.citynet.net/kbrown/Doug http://www.prologic-inc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 04:50:06 -0800 (PST) From: b r <d94017 at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: polution concerns.... When properly used for brewing sanitation, these chemicals will pose no ill effects to the environment. I hate to say this, but this is more of the usual liberal scare tactics. You know we probably shouldn't drink beer either, the gas we expel will deteriorate the ozone layer! The only way to reverse the ill effects of "chemicals" on the environment is to reduce the population on this overpopulated planet. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:46:33 -0600 From: "Max Brandenberger" <maxb at austin.rr.com> Subject: RE: Pollution Concerns For those of you who are concerned about polluting the environment with substances such as chlorine in our disinfecting agents, let me make the following suggestions: 1.) Go out to your front yard, dig up your sewage line, and cap it. You don't want the chlorine in your TAP WATER to cause undue harm to the environment. 2.) While you have the hole in the front yard, reroute your water line to the nearest stream, pond, or river so you can supply your house with fresh, un-chlorinated water. 3.) Call your HMO or insurance provider and ask them how many intravenous antibiotic treatments you are allowed to have per year for infections such as cholera and typhoid fever. 4.) Oh, and I almost forgot, call the EPA every time you brew beer and ask them to declare your garage a superfund site so they can come out and remove the gallon or so of water that is laced with the toxic disinfecting agents. Max Brandenberger Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 08:56:13 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: Thermometer Calibration My Fellow Brewers, I recently installed (as you may have read) a bi-metallic dial thermometer in my mash/lauter tun (aka, converted Sanke). I have used it to brew once thus far and have concerns as to its accuracy. It has an adjustment screw in the back. My glass lab thermomoter reads some degrees different than it. What's the proper method for calibrating? In adjusting it, I also want to make sure my lab thermometer is accurate. TIA, Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 07:52:20 -0600 (CST) From: jal at novia.net Subject: Re: Dark malts in Schwarzbier Dave in Voctoria, BC, asks about Schwartzbier: >While we're on the topic of what malts to use to darken >a dunkelweizen... what's the consensus on Schwarzbier? >BJCP discusses "supplemented by a small amount of >roasted malts for the dark color and subtle roast flavors". >So how much and what variety do people tend to use. I >used about 100g (4/5ths chocolate, 1/5 patent) in a 23L >batch with a little (25g) of Special-B. The main grist was >about 50% Munich. >The flavour of the wort, post-boil, was about what I expected, >but the colour was definately a little light. Not very black. >More like dunkel in colour (translucent brown). I have never brewed a Schwartzbier, and I've tasted precious few, but I'll give you my understanding of the style. The traditional grain bill is mostly Munich malt, darkened further with German Karafe malt, a mild sort of roasted malt with little or no sharp flavor. I've used this malt, and you should be able to use 200 grams (or more) in your 23- litre batch to get the color you want with a pleasant dryness. If your local shop doesn't carry Karafe, you should be able to get it mail order. I know Steinbart's in Portland has carried it in the past. The Speical B, while an intersting addition, is not to style for a Schwartzbier. Hope this helps. Jim Larsen Omaha Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:59:52 -0500 From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com> Subject: chillzilla Scott says chillzilla is not a good product. That is incorrect. I bought one and it cools my wert as fast as I can get it thru there with a trickle of water. I haven't had a single stoppage except one time a hop bag got stuck over the pickup tube after I'd knocked off my strainer. My only connection with Great Fermentations is my friendship with them and the many hours of beer talk I and many others enjoy there. Thankyou Anita for all your help and advice, Joe Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:13:13 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <nerenner at umich.edu> Subject: Correction Re: Old Speckled Hen Brewers Several HBDers questioned my citation of Protz's Real Ale Almanac entry for Moreland's Old Speckled Ale. The problem was that I screwed up in my transcription. (Hey - I figure it's better to have screwed up than never to have ... well, you know. Wink, wink, nudge, nudge). I apparently copied from entries for several other of their beers. Anyway, Bruce Garner's citation was correct, as was H. Dowda's citation from Protz's "Brew Your Own ...". I should have known that 1.035 was too low for this ale, which is a strong ale (by British standards). Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, c/o nerenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 09:27:40 -0600 From: Jeremy Lakey <Jeremy at imc2.com> Subject: cooler/warmer.... http://www.coleman.com/coleman/ColemanCom/prod_Detail.asp?Product_id=5615-80 7&CategoryID=8570&SourcePage=PRODBRANDLIST.ASP&SubmittingPage=Prod_subcatego ry.asp not associated with coleman, blah blah blah, but i'm thinking about playing around with one of these bad boys for either mashing or cooling... Looks very nice Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:37:11 -0500 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: re: Pollution Concerns Benjy wrote of pollution concerns: >I urge those of you who dump your sanitizing agent (whether it be >iodophor, bleach, etc.) onto your lawn, the driveway, or some other place >outdoors (even a storm sewer) to please consider your actions. The >chemicals are toxic and damage the environment, as well as pollute >groundwater. Moreover, dumping chemicals in such a way is in violation of >the federal Clean Water Act. The Clean Water Act, along with the Federal Water Pollution Control Act gives the EPA the authority to set effluent standards on an industry basis as well sets water quality standards for contaminants in surface waters. It is pointed at the industries who produce, transport, store, treat or dispose of toxic wastes. It is not meant to be applied to */normal/* household effluence. I think a few ounces of bleach or other commonly used sanitizer meets that criteria. However, if someone is dumping formaldehyde or trichoroethane, I think there is cause for concern by the state DEP. For more info on the CWA try: http://www.epa.gov/region5/defs/html/cwa.ht http://www4.law.cornell.edu/uscode/unframed/33/ch26.html > As brewers we should be mindful of our environment and the delicate >balance of the ecosystem. Not just being a brewer, but I would think that being someone who has to live in this world would be enough to make you a little more considerate of what you dump into it. I don't worry so much about where I live now since we have public sewer. My 1/2 oz per gallon of bleachwater or 12.5 ppm iodophor are effective enough sanitizers which will not overburgen the treatement facility in such limited quantities. However, I may be moving into an area which uses septic and a well. I don't want to mess up my septic system with sanitizers and I also don't want to dump them in my back yard to leach into the well (if it's a shallow one). I also don't want to dump sanitizers or detergents in the storm drains (read: rural road drainage ditch) because it may eventually work it's way into my favorite trout streams. Hey, it's rare to find crystal clear water in NJ ;-) So what do I do? As for the environmental groups... go hug a tree! ;-) Carpe cerevisiae! Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "Designs which work well on paper rarely do so in actual practice" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:58:30 -0500 From: "Bridges, Scott" <ScottBridges at sc.slr.com> Subject: Guinness et al Jeff Renner writes: >But I will. Don't limit yourself to Guinness. It's a great beer, >but I preferred the slightly more chocolatey, perhaps less sharp >flavor of Murphy's. It is not as universally available as Guinness, >but in the south and west (it's brewed in cork), you should be able >to find it, and typically for 20p less a pint. When I could find it, >it was my choice, but when only Guinness was available, I wasn't at >all unhappy. The third national Irish stout, Beamish, also brewed in >Cork, didn't suit my palate. I found it thin and unbalanced. But as >A.J. wrote, "de gustibus non disputandem est." Jeff, I couldn't agree with you more. I have also compared the 3 traditional Irish stouts. I've had all three in Ireland, but not all at the same time. A while back I had an Irish coworker/friend who brought back samples of all three one time after a visit home, and we did an unofficial taste test. Please no comments about the lack of scientific approach. I freely admit to not being a scientist. However, my taste buds clearly prefer Murphys. As you stated, I'm never unhappy to be drinking Guinness, but I'll take Murphys every time if I have a choice. Beamish runs a distant third in my book as well. My friend from Dublin's response to my findings.... "you're entitled to your opinion." I am pleased to find another person with the same opinion of the 3 stouts. It's usually considered sacrilege to say that Guinness is not the best stout in the world. I consider myself to be in good company. Scott Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 10:05:23 -0600 From: "Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies" <orders at paddockwood.com> Subject: Darkening a Dunkle/Schwarz Dave asks about Darkening Dunkles & Schwarzbiers: Consider the Carafa de-husked colour malts - perfect for Schwarzbiers and black lagers. For the Dunkle, consider Chocolate and Caramel Wheat malts. Weyermann makes some. I just brewed up a nice Stout Porter using no roasted barley, just Carafa III: I used 900gms in a 50L batch. It darkened it opaque, without imparting any astringent roasted bite. Very mellow and smooth. You could use far less in a Schwarzbier, and would be able to darken it without affecting flavour, about 100gms in 23L should give an opaque black. Hope this was useful, Stephen Ross Paddock Wood Brewing Supplies, Saskatoon, SK orders at paddockwood.com www.paddockwood.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 12:31:51 -0600 From: "Daniel C Stedman" <"daniel_c_stedman" at uhc.com> Subject: Re: The underattenuation blues Hmmm... That is a tough one. I have a couple of ideas, though. First, I have seen problems in my own fermentations when CO2 builds up. More in cider than in beer (which can get VERY supersaturated), but if you are filtering out all of the break material and hops then you may have the same problem. I also think that waiting until the fermentation has stopped before shaking the CO2 out is a mistake - the yeasties are probably in pretty poor shape by then. Just give your fermenter a good rousing in the morning and evening for the first few days of fermentation and you should be OK. While you don't want to oxidize the heck out of it, oxidation shouldn't be much of a problem if you have the CO2 pouring out of the wort. Second, try calibrating your thermos at ~150 F by buying a glass lab thermo, which are very accurate & cheap, and heating up some water in the kitchen to 150 (as measured by your glass thermo). Then when you brew be sure to double check that your mash temp is what it is supposed to be with the glass thermo. Third, your conical fermenter might be a problem. Why don't you send it to me for evaluation & try fermenting in a couple of buckets for a while. I'll inspect it and return it to you sometime in November. Dan in Minnetonka Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:55:39 -0500 From: cmmundt at AircraftBraking.com Subject: Stuck Sparge I have a question about stuck sparges. I have been doing single infusion mashes and a step infusion mash with some success. I was feeling confident enough in my all-grain brewing (having a whopping 5 all-grain attempts) to try a decoction mash to make a dunkles bock. I have been extracting about 65-66% of the fermentable sugars from the grains. I know that a decoction mash will give a higher extraction efficiency, but I did not know how much higher. I calculated my grain bill (if this beer turns out, I will post the recipe) based on 70% efficiency and proceeded with the mash. I did a triple decoction mash with very little difficulty, it took a while but effort on my part was less than I expected. I was very careful not to introduce any hot side aeration or cold side aeration. I started the sparging and after about 7-8 minutes I had a clear run off, this is much faster than I typically get a clear run off. But, after extracting about 1.5 gallons the sparge was stuck. I unstuck it, but throughout the sparging it kept getting stuck. My initial guess as to why it was happening, in hindsight of course, was my flow rate. I think I was sparging too fast (I am not sure of actual flow rates). This was the rate I typically sparge at, but with the grains much more gelatinized and generally softer, I think it compacted the bed too much. I was wondering if anybody out there has any other ideas. Next time, I will be sure to contain my anxiousness towards getting the wort and sparge at least 1/2 the speed. One other side note about the process. I collected the sparge and measure OG before the boil and I had an OG = 1.070 for 7.5 gallons giving me an efficiency of extraction rate at over 90%. Seeing the noticeable increase in gravity over my original plan I changed my hopping schedule to make a dobble bock instead of the dunkel. Next time, I will use much less grain. Chad Mundt cmmundt at aircraftbraking.com in Wadsworth, OH (just W of Akron and about 200 miles ESE of Rennarian [0,0]) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 2001 11:15:08 -0800 From: "Dave Sapsis" <dsapsis at earthlink.net> Subject: BJCP exam schedule Good folks, Time for the periodic post alerting any potential examinees of the current BJCP exam schedule. The first half of 2001 has a number of exams spread out (including Central Canada!) so please contact the listed sponsor if you are interested. As always, this schedule is maintained at the web site: http://www.mv.com/ipusers/slack/bjcp/examsch.html 2/24 Downers Grove, IL Steve McKenna (630) 305-0554 Email: mckennst at earthlink.net 3/3 Cheyenne, WY Paul Dey (307) 635-9481 alldey at uswest.net March?? Urbandale, Iowa Jackie Rager (913) 894-9131 E-Mail : jrager at swbell.net 3/10 San Francisco, CA Russ Wigglesworth 707-769-0425 RussWig at aol.com 3/23 Irving, TX Al Kinchen 972-241-4986 Email: alkinchen at aol.com 4/13 Juneau, AK Marcy Larson 907-780-5866 Email: info at alaskanbeer.com 4/21 Beavercreek, OH Gordon Strong 937-429-2953 strongg at earthlink.net 4/22 New Orleans, LA Warren Chigoy, Jr. (504) 443-4244 Email: wacjr at ix.netcom.com 4/19 De Pere, WI Michael Conard Evening Phone: (920) 388-2728 Email: mconard at itol.com 5/4 Raleigh, NC Larry Matthews 919-362-9407 Email: lmatt at ipass.net 5/6 Calgary, Alberta Brian Read 403-245-9159 Email: at readbd at home.com. 5/12 Cincinnati, OH Jeff Seeley Evening Phone: (513) 231-6062 Email: infuser at earthlink.net 5/20 Orlando, FL Ron Bach (407) 696-2738 Email: bachian at juno.com 6/2 Madison, WI Colin P. Crowley 608-271-6095 E-mail: crowley at cae.wisc.edu 6/3 Malvern, PA Peter Schaut Evening Phone: (610) 889-0905 Email: BrewIPA at aol.com Cheers, David Sapsis BJCP Western Exam Director Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 13:30:48 -0600 From: david.persenaire at abnamro.com Subject: BOSS Competition Brewers Of South Suburbia (BOSS) Chicago Cup Challenge Homebrew Contest deadline is 3/30/2001. This is a leg in the Midwest Homebrewer of the Year competition. For details: www.megsinet.net/~bethke/boss/ Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 10:10:46 +1100 From: TOLLEY Matthew <matthew.tolley at atsic.gov.au> Subject: Aussie beer recipes >If anyone knows of any recipies (preferably using kits/extract) for beers >like: James Boag Premium, Carlton Crown Lager, Victoria Bitter, Cascade >Premium, Coopers Sparkling Ale etc. It would be much appreciated. Hi Aussie Brewer Have a look at these sites: http://www.countrybrewer.com.au/webcontent40.asp http://www.homebrew.com.au/recipes.htm http://www.brewcraft.com.au/recipe_lookalikes_list.html Cheers ...Matt... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 18:15:57 -0500 From: Travis Dahl KE4VYZ <dahlt at umich.edu> Subject: Re: Pollution Concern Well, I live with an environmental engineer, so I felt obligated to query her on all of this. What follows is a loose summary. The federal Clean Water Act does not specifically address Bleach, Iodophor, etc. In fact it was aimed at large industrial users of very nasty things. (Sidenote: Don't live next to a dry cleaner's) In the dilute concentrations we use them, these sanitizers are not a problem for a waste water treatment plant. If you have a septic system, they may cause a problem, however. The problems caused by laundry detergents involve the surfactants present in most of these products. Specific municipalities may have regulations regarding the dumping of grey water on private property, but, again, the dilute concentrations shouldn't have too adverse an effect on your lawn. (I wouldn't recommend pouring it on the compost, might kill the little critters doing the composting...) Finally, _please_ don't dump it down the storm sewer! The water from the storm drains is often routed directly to the local river, without passing through the water treatment plant. On a related note: I would imagine (and have heard supporting stories) that other wastes from the brewing process make excellent compost/fertilizers! I'm thinking of using this as one more excuse to brew beer...:) -Travis Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 23:59:02 +0000 From: Craig MacFarlane <craigm at chemconnect.com> Subject: Diacetyl - what is it? Okay, with all the talk of diacetyl, I'll ask... What is it? How is it identified in the finished product? From the answers I'll decide if I want it in my beer or not. Thanks! Craig Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 20:29:58 -0500 From: acez at mindspring.com Subject: fermented pepsi Hey guys, I was drinking a pepsi and walking out of my biology lecture (where we were talking about anaerobic organisms) and it hit me...try fermenting some pepsi! So I went home and used some extra wine yeast from the mead I have going right now and put about a quarter of the pack in a 2 litter bottle about a quarter full and put it in the cupboard. My friends and I watched over the next few days as it bubbled and churned (like normal beer) and now it is somewhat clear (you can see through the yellow haze) and it has a lot of dark foam on top. You can see the yeast settled on the bottom. We opened it up and it smells kind of citrus-like. It actually tastes pretty good (we just took a sip). At least, from what we tasted, we could see mixing it with some regular pepsi and having a pretty novel drink. I have never heard of anyone doing this and my logic was simply this - lots of sugar in pepsi...so lets get it fermented. There was obviously a lot that occured. I would be interested to understand it in a better light if some of you could enlighten me. Is there alcohol? How much by volume do you think? I had previously been drinking out of the bottle for a few days before adding the yeast, could that have allowed for some off flavors, or the smell? I await your guys' response, maybe I'll make a couple gallons next time. Later, Casey Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 21:41:29 -0500 From: Len Dmochowski <lenski at fuse.net> Subject: Recipe - Old Speckled Hen I formulated this recipe about four years ago and according to my notes this brew was very similar to Old Speckled Hen. My original intention of this recipe was to make a basic Pale Ale and used my Wyeast 1084 starter by accident...thus my Stout I made later the same day received my Wyeast 1028 starter. Luckily, both brews were tasty. Anyway, this recipe assumes 75% efficiency and the use of pellet hops. Here ya go: Grain/Adjunct Bill: 7.25 lbs Muntons Pale Ale Malt 0.75 lbs 60L Muntons Crystal Malt 0.25 lbs Torrified Wheat 0.50 lbs Invert Sugar Single Infusion Mash - 151F for 2 hours at 1.35 qts/lb Hop Bill: Challenger: 6 HBU - 75 minute boil EKG: 3 HBU - 15 minute boil Challenger: 3 HBU - 15 minute boil EKG: 5 HBU - 1 minute boil Yeast: Wyeast 1084 Irish Ale - Primary and Secondary Fermentation at 65F Hope this helps. Len Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Feb 2001 23:43:15 -0800 From: "Bob" <bsmntbrewr at home.com> Subject: re: APA help Brewers, Mr. Larson responded to Mr. Renner's response to Mr. Bratcher's (that's me) query regarding the history of APA: <snip> While I have no references at my disposal, I can correct a couple of data points here from personal experience: New Albion started business in Sonoma, CA, in the late 70s. I used to come home to Sonoma County from college ca '78, driving through the city of Sonoma to pick a case of New Albion. I don't know when New Albion shut its doors, but it wasn't too long after that. </snip> To which I can now add: New Albion Brewery in Sonoma opened in 1976. New Albion closed in 1983. When New Albion closed, brewers Michael Lovett and Don Barkley moved to Hopland and took up shop with the newly opened Mendocino Brewing Company and helped to found the new brewing company with their expertise, New Albion's unique yeast strains, and some of the equipment from New Albion Brewing as well. Mr. Larson continued: <snip> Mendocino Brewing's founders are the same people who did New Albion. I don't have the names of the individuals involved, but I believe they are still using the same yeast. </snip> To which I can also now add: >From MBC's web page - http://mendobrew.com/ The three original partners of Mendocino Brewing Company (Michael Laybourn, Norman Franks and John Scahill) had been homebrewers and beer lovers as a result of their exposure to traditional ales and beers in Europe, and they believed that Americans were ready for more flavorful brews. The three formed a Limited Partnership in 1983, and the Mendocino Brewing Company was born. Mr. Larson continued to continue: <snip> As to whether New Albion Ale was an APA, I cannot say. (I couldn't have told a cascade from a cluster from an EKG in those days, and wouldn't have known a sack of Klages if it hit me over the head.) Sierra Nevada is certainly the archetype. </snip> If New Albion Ale was an APA I have no answer as yet. I have contacted MBC with several questions and they responded: "Many thanks for your mail. I am forwarding it to Don who is still with us as our Master Brewer. Perhaps he will be able to help you." I found an article from 1997 on Celebrator.com about Don recreating the New Albion Ale for its 20th anniversary. Although it is not in production it apparently is not lost. Hopefully, Don will share some information with us on the brew. From what little I have found, SNPA is indeed the archetype. I have similarly contacted Steve Dressler for any insights into it's birth. Last year Steve provided our club with some pointers on reproducing SNPA. This info can be found at http://hbd.org/starcity/descriptions.html#f you may have to page down once or twice. Many thanks to Jim and Jeff for responding. I'll post a follow up if I receive any responses from Don and Steve. Brew On! Bob Bratcher Roanoke, VA Star City Brewers Guild http://hbd.org/starcity Return to table of contents
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