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FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
Re: Alf and Betty (was Dave Line) (David Lamotte)
Dave Line and Brewing Books Generally ("Abby, Ellen and Alan")
Re: Casking Real Ale (Jay\) Reeves" <jay666 at bellsouth.net>
re:babel ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
Homebrewed Cask Ale ("Ray Daniels")
Re: Dave Line (Jeff Renner)
bran instead of rice hulls (Weaver Joseph Todd Capt 39 MDG/SGOAM)
Plastic discrimination... ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
[Fwd: Casking Real Ale] (Mike Bardallis)
Odd Kegging Problem (Stephen Johnson)
Glass Carboys (Nathan Kanous)
carboy screw caps? ("Stephen")
Books other than Line's (Frank Tutzauer)
Confessions of a glass snob (Frank Tutzauer)
Too much Oak (Nathan Matta)
AHA Conference Update (Steve Casselman)
Re: Supplies in Japan (Christopher Jon Poel)
Austin Tx (Rex h)
learning to brew in the 80's/ (EdgeAle)
Practical Brewer pdf - Chapter 11 (Pat Babcock)
RE: Learning to brew in the 80's (Pat Babcock)
oxygenation ("marc_hawley")
*
* 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA
* June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more
* information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig!
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*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 15:50:38 +1000
From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Alf and Betty (was Dave Line)
Ant Hayes agrees with Dr. Pivo as they both ...
"use Alf and Betty to remember their preferences for temperature and
mash thickness."
I can't remember where I read it, but I refer to the amylese family as
Axe and Bite.
The Alpha 'axe' chops up the long starch chains, whereas the Beta
'Bites' maltose molecules off the ends.
Same ending, but different story and characters.
David
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 07:54:52 -0300
From: "Abby, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Dave Line and Brewing Books Generally
Glad to see some postings about books as I think I have spent as much on
books about brewing as I have on ingredients this year - and I brew 5
gallons about every three weeks.
I want to add my recommendation for Dave Line's "Big Book..." as a must
read. One reason I think it is important is to place where we are
today in context. I hunt out older popular books such as his other
book "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy", C.J.J. Berry's "Home Brewed
Beers and Stouts" and Tayleur's "The Penguin Book of Home Brewing and
Wine-Making." I see Berry and Tayleur as first generation 1960's texts
reflecting the world after the 1963 end of UK homebrewing taxation,
while Line reflects the 1970's and the question "what can now be done
with this right to brew and this malt I have." I see the AHA style
Books and Papazian's books as a third wave in the 1980's to mid-90'of
focusing of sometimes overwhelming specificity of output which says "I
can make anything with a bit of yeast and malt and...everything else in
the cupboard." I look at newer texts such as the Szamatulski's
"Clonebrews" and Noonan's "Seven Barrel Brewery..." which, for example,
list specific yeast strains and degrees "L" of crystal malt as the
current wave of popular writing at its best - very much aimed at the
specific ingredients available and alternatives. I am disappointed when
I buy a new book such as the otherwise excellent "Brew Your Own British
Real Ale" only to find that the authors do not recommend specific
strains of yeast. [My only fear with book collecting is that I will
get really itchy for a copy of the 18th century "London and Country
Brewer" which is listed on the internet at a couple of thousand bucks.]
These sorts of books do not necessarily at any stage of the hobby's
development fully reflect the technical or scientific side of the making
of beer expressed here in large part but they do show the other side -
how ordinary folk have tried to expand their capability and enjoyment of
brewing. [Perhaps you also learn how bad an author's back page photo
can look as well! Terry Foster really should have been getting a few
more yours snooze in before the photo shoot for "Pale Ale."] I know
before I brew I find myself for a couple of days laying around the
living room with a stack of my books from all eras looking for ideas to
bring together for the next "sup."
I would encourage anyone interested in moving from a beginner to a
intermediate brewer especially to hit the second hand shops and the
discount bins and read everything you can find. You will find
interesting and odd personalities like Ken Shales, Dave Line and Charles
Papazian. You will also find that, just as the HBD reminds us that we
are now a very diverse and well populated bunch, that in the past we
have been equally eccentric and confident in our desire to get a swell
pint of brew out of those lovely little yeast cells.
Alan McLeod in PEI
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 06:34:03 -0500
From: "James \(Jay\) Reeves" <jay666 at bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Casking Real Ale
Dan Temple asked about doing a cask conditioned ale in HBD #3654
I'd recommend that you let it ferment completely out then prime it. Unless
you know exactly where the final gravity will land, letting it finish it's
ferment in the cask will not give you dependable carbonation results. In
the UK, most brewers rack their beer to the cask with 0.0005 to 0.002 above
it's final SG to prime the cask, but that requires you know exactly where
it's gonna land before hand.
A typical cask conditioned beer should have 0.75 to 1.0 volume of CO2 when
served. I like to prime mine to around 1.25 to 1.5 and let it come down
over the course of a few days after a soft spile has been drove into the
shive. I use approximately 48 grams of corn sugar to prime a pin and 78
grams to prime a firkin, which is what it sounds like you are using. But
those amounts are also dependant on how much CO2 is still in solution when
you prime it, which is dependant on the temperature the ferment has been
carried out at and its current temperature. There was an article at the
Brewery web site about how much priming sugar to use to achieve a certain
carbonation level taking the temperature into consideration - you may want
to go find that.
After I prime mine, I let it sit for a minimum of two weeks between 55F-60F.
Then I serve it at about 55-57F. The milder ales I put on in 2-3 weeks, the
stronger and/or darker ones I may let sit for 4 weeks or longer. The way
publicans in England tell a cask is ready is to spile it and sample it over
the course of a few days. When the condition, flavor, & appearance are
right, it goes on.
As far as head space, I don't leave much and I have pretty good success -
about an inch below the shive opening.
Also you didn't mention how you were going to dry hop, but using plugs is
the easiest, which is what I believe the UK brewers use to dry hop.
Have fun & welcome to the world of casking!
-Jay Reeves
Huntsville, AL
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 08:39:56 -0400
From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com>
Subject: re:babel
Steve says:
>>have no lust for oxygen and even as a strategic advantage can
accomplish most of their life cycle without any O2 !! <<
After previously saying in 3618:
>>Yeast with decent glycogen levels (that's when an iodine test is useful)
>will use air saturation level of O2 (0.27mMol/L), ferment almost all of
>their acid soluble glycogen and lose 20% of dry mass and increase total
>sterol levels from 0.1% to 1% and UFAs similarly increased in the first 2
>hours after pitching - the lag period. Contrary to HB lore, the lag
period
>is very important. It's about converting glycogen stores + O2 to sterols
>and UFAs.
>There may be clever ways to make the yeast happy, not aerate the wort, and
>not add to the flavor difficulties, but I don't have any such method.
> -Steve
This seems to imply a serious need for oxygen. At least in our context
of brewing beer. Yeast like the oxygen to utilize for more rapid
reproduction. Given that the essence of all creatures is to feed and
multiply for continuance of the species; that yeast can survive without
oxygen no way means they aren't more prolific in its' presence.
>>But unlike most yeasts our brewing S.cerevisiae ferment sugars
>>never found in fruit,<<
Again quite specious. So that man has chosen a few hundred yeasts
for their favorable fermentation characteristics from 10's of thousands
yeasts
doesn't change that these are in fact wild yeast, we just brewing with the
tasty ones. There are too many natural sources of polysaccharides to begin
listing; barley is an obvious place to start.
>>No and stop making up things I supposedly said<<
after you saying in #3614:
SA>>Well you've seen some inputs but one confused poster writes:
GF >I came up with this test in the late 1980s when I was writing the
> first edition of [...]
SA>>Yeah - and Al Gore invented the internet.
When the real quote was
>...late 1980s when I was writing the first edition
>of PBS. The procedure was presented at the AHA National
> Conference held in Estes Park, Co. (which BTW was the best
> homebrewing conference I have ever attended!). The references
> you cited were from this and a later meeting.
NPL
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 07:55:26 -0500
From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan at ameritech.net>
Subject: Homebrewed Cask Ale
Dan Temple asks for tips on making cask ale at home. Here are a few.
For starters, remember that the 9-gallon cask called a firkin is measured in
British units. Thus you'll need to make 10.8 U.S. gallons of beer to fill
one. A more practical alternative, if you can find one, is the 4.5 Imperial
gallon "pin" which you can fill will just 5.4 (US) gallons of homebrew.
Second, remember that air is generally admitted to the cask when you begin
serving the beer. Thus it goes both flat and bad after a few days. CO2
blanket pressure can be used to slow these effects, but some consider this
practice an unspeakable heresy. The other alternative is to have a big
party.
Third, while many British commercial brewers cask their beers with a bit of
residual fermentability rather than priming, they have the benefit of long
experience in getting it just right. US brewers (both home and commercial)
generally prefer to let things ferment out and then prime with sugar at
filling just as you would for bottle conditioning.
The goal with priming is to add 0.001 to 0.002 SG of fermentable sugar.
Using corn sugar, this would equal 0.25 to 0.5 pound (4 - 8 ounces by
weight) of corn sugar for 10.8 gallons.
You do not need to leave a headspace in the cask -- commercial brewers
certainly don't. In any case, the pressure developed will be the same.
Furthermore, if properly handled the cask will be vented with a soft spile
before serving to allow for a gentle release of the excess gas.
Finally, we'll have an article on making real ale at home -- although using
corny kegs rather than casks -- in the Sept/October issue Zymurgy.
Cheers!
Ray Daniels
Editor-in-Chief, Zymurgy & The New Brewer
Real Ale Festival Organizer
E-mail: ray at aob.org
Don't Miss:
National Homebrewers Conference, Los Angeles - June 21-23
Celebrate American Beer Month in July (See www.americanbeermonth.com)
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 09:03:12 -0400
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Dave Line
Ant Hayes of Gauteng; South Africa, repeated Doc P's praises of Dave
Line (to which I will add mine), and wrote:
>I'd be interested to know if anyone who learned to brew in the 80's/
>early 90's read anything else (CJJ Berry perhaps)?
I learned to brew in the early to mid 70's, when there was very
little information at all. I do indeed have Berry's "Home brewed
Beers and Stouts" on my shelf, but I didn't find it until the late
70's, when I first tried mashing. It was around 1980 that I got Dave
Line's book. What a revelation! Intelligently written, easy to
understand, accurate information. Like Ant, I still think of Alf and
Betty to remember which enzyme is which.
I seem to have lost another book that was typical of what I could
find before the late 70s (and I bought anything I could get my hands
on). This gem of misinformation told the author's secret of
successful beer that no other author had ever discovered. He had
discovered this secret when visiting a brewery, and he was willing to
share it. It was that when you mixed the malt extract and water, you
then had to let it "rest" at 153 deg. F for an hour for the enzymes
to work before proceeding with the boil. Really! Fortunately, I had
figured out enough brewing science to know that this was nonsense,
but this was typical of what we had to work with in the dark ages.
Drink a toast tonight to Dave Line, patriarch of modern homebrewing!
I hope he's brewing and drinking with the angels.
Jeff
- --
***Please note new address*** (old one will still work)
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net
"One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 15:06:47 +0200
From: Weaver Joseph Todd Capt 39 MDG/SGOAM <Joseph.Weaver at incirlik.af.mil>
Subject: bran instead of rice hulls
Collective,
Can't get rice hulls here in Turkey very easily. They quit growing rice in
this area to reduce mosquito breeding habitat for malaria control. Anyway,
what about using wheat bran instead of rice hulls to aid filtration and
prevent stuck sparges?
Todd in Turkey
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 10:22:52 -0400
From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com>
Subject: Plastic discrimination...
Scott Morgan wrote:
>Well this is some anti-glass discussion. You must remember that
>carboys are not native to Oz and many other countries.
See, that is one of the benefits of living in America. We have just about
everything at our disposal - maybe with the exception of genital sucking
frogs and Mr. Sanders. But you guys can keep them ;-)
>Seems this comes up about once a year and I seriously question the
>logic of some, and thier cleaning and brewing practices.
Yes, the debate always comes around and it always has the same arguements.
In order to participate, you must exclusively join a glass, plastic or
stainless camp. Crossing the lines is unacceptable. Phooey! I use all
three because they all have equivalent pros and cons when applied to brewing
across the board. However, if you look at the pros of each, you'll discover
that their pros outweigh the cons when applied to particular styles of
brewing.
I'm not going to list them all. I'm sure you know them. But for the most
part lagers fare best in glass and stainless because of air ingress during
lagering. Ales are best in plastic so you can skim or add fruit, if
desired. Barleywines, old ales and lambics start out in plastic and wind up
in glass for aging. I'll stop there.
As for cleaning, you couldn't convince me of one over the other either.
Take the limited access of the carboy and compare that to the limited visual
inspection of a corny. Then compare those to the scratched up carboy that
has retained some funky fruit odors. Again, no clear victor. Only thorough
mechanical cleaning followed by proper sanitation with chemical agents can
one ensure good cleaning practices - regardless of material.
>Rolling your fermenter around, I dont think so.
Possible in anything, but a bucket ;-)
Carpe cerevisiae!
Glen A. Pannicke
glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net
75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD
"I have made this letter longer than usual,
because I lack the time to make it short." - Blaise Pascal
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:51:07 -0400
From: Mike Bardallis <dbgrowler at provide.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Casking Real Ale]
It is best to let the ale ferment out completely before racking to the cask;
conditioning level is easier to predict and manage, and you'll have less lees in
the cask. 1/2 cup (dry, US) sugar for priming should do you.
And you should definitely leave a bit of ullage (headspace.) CO2 pressure is not
an issue, as it just dissolves in the beer if it has nowhere else to go. The
issue is that gas is compressible and liquid (for all practical purposes) is
not. Without a cushion of gas, thermal expansion could cause the beer to push
the shive out and cause a tragic loss of beer. I shudder to think....
Mike Bardallis
Allen Park, MI, where a firkin of bitter will pour
Saturday to commemorate batch #200....
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:00:03 -0500
From: Stephen Johnson <Stephen.Johnson at vanderbilt.edu>
Subject: Odd Kegging Problem
A post recently from:
"Jamie Smith" <jxsmith at vac-acc.gc.ca> on PEI asks about a friend:
Subject: Odd problem with kegged beer
in which the last beer out of the keg is actually water. He also adds that:
"His fridge temp is like mine, just at or below freezing. I don't have this
problem. Any ideas?"
My guess is that there is some freezing going on inside the keg, and that
when all of the beer is consumed, the ice collects at the bottom and melts
and is then the last liquid out of the keg. It could be that his
temperature contoller on the fridge where the beer is stored is off enough
that the temp. inside is enough below 0C to freeze some of the beer,
creating an ice beer, in effect.
Just a guess, but I might recommend raising the temp in the fridge about
4C. I have never had that problem, because I don't like to drink my beer
that cold to begin with.
Steve Johnson
Nashville, TN
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:06:29 -0500
From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu>
Subject: Glass Carboys
Ah, Scott blesses us with wisdom regarding the use of plastic vs. glass and
comments that "You must remember that carboys are not native to Oz and
many other countries". In fact, I don't think many carboys are native to
the US. Every one I have says "made in Mexico" on the bottom. Go NAFTA!
nathan in madison, wi
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:19:49 -0400
From: "Stephen" <stephennyc at about.com>
Subject: carboy screw caps?
Stephen Klump wrote:
> Use the screw cap to seal the wort + yeast
> and turn the carbouy onto its side and roll
> back and forth to mix the yeast in well for
> primary fermentation (try THAT with a plastic
> bucket! ;-))
Where do I get one of these screw tops?
- Steve
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:36:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu>
Subject: Books other than Line's
Ant Hayes has a question about decade-old homebrew books:
>I'd be interested to know if anyone who learned to brew in the 80's/
>early 90's read anything [other than David Line]...
I began brewing in 1991, and Papazian and Miller were pretty much the only
show in town, although Byron Burch had a skinny little paperback that was
ok (with good pictures). Now, of course, there's all kinds of good
resources.
I didn't get David Line's book until a couple of years later, but his
recipes and techniques were quite different than was common in the American
homebrewing scene, so it didn't influence me too much.
Frankly, as is true for many of you, the most valuable information I got
was from the HomeBrew Digest, although that was some 3000 odd Digests ago.
The HBD has changed quite a bit in these 10 years--for example, there were
way more recipes back then, and I'd never even *heard* of an
Australian(!)--but then, as now, there were lots of folks willing to talk
things through with a novice homebrewer.
--frank
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:39:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu>
Subject: Confessions of a glass snob
After Scotty's defense of plastic, I must confess: I was once a glass
snob.
When I began homebrewing, I listened to all those who said that plastic
would produce off-tastes, would scratch and harbor bacteria, and so forth.
Also, some fellow in the HBD convinced me to use the blow-off method of
fermenting by arguing that you should taste the blow off some time. It's
foul and disgusting. Then, he said, not knowing what it was, would you
ever intentionally add something so disgusting to your beer? I found that
argument very persuasive, and elected to go with a 5-gallon glass carboy
with a blow off tube as my primary fermenter.
Fast forward eight years, when I began brewing regularly with a coupla
friends. Sometimes we'd brew at my house, sometimes at theirs. The first
few times I used my trusty glass carboy, but a full glass carboy jouncing
around in the bed of my pick up truck over Buffalo's pot-holed streets led
to too much worrying and not enough relaxing, so I began using a 7-gallon
plastic bucket. This is *far* superior for transportation purposes.
Although I never had any real problem cleaning my carboys, I found that
cleaning the bucket was easier. Also, not having to muck about with the
damned blowoff hose was much to my liking (with no apparent effect on the
beer).
So now, I pretty much use plastic buckets for primaries, although if
they're full, I'll walk on the dark side for a brew or two.
Fortunately, the bucket and carboy have pretty much the same H:W ratio, so
I'm all set there. (That was a *joke* folks!)
--frank
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 13:34:29 -0400
From: Nathan Matta <whatsa at MIT.EDU>
Subject: Too much Oak
Well, I've gone and done it. I thought I'd try a mild recipe from a
recent
BYO, which involved boiling with and fermenting on a small quantity of oak
chips. So, the mild is great, but there's a sharp bite right up front that
I think detracts from it. Clearly, this is the oak chips. OK, I know
what I've done wrong, does anyone have any suggestions on ways to improve
this beer? I've considered serving it ice-cold like lemonade (but I haven't
tried it yet), or adding a flavored sweetener at serving time. Perhaps it
will age out? Thanks for any advice!
Nathan
========================================
Nathan Matta
Fuzzy Beer Home Brewery
Randolph, MA, USA
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:15:57 -0700
From: Steve Casselman <sc at vcc.com>
Subject: AHA Conference Update
Here is an update on the AHA conference. June 20-23
Thursday:
Club Night has turned into a mini HomeBrewers Fest in a big way. The hotel
has allowed us to bring our Beer Bars. For anyone who has not been to the
Southern California Homebrewers Festival (SCHF) this is something to see.
Each club has a Beer Bar with anywhere from 10-30 taps on them. At the SCHF
about 30 clubs and 1200 people show up.
Friday:
The Friday Night Beer Festival is going to be Great. We will have around 30
Real Ales, all on Hand Pumps, and 30 draft beers. Brewin Beagle will let us
use the beer engines that Pizza Port shipped in for their Real Ale Fest
(which was great with over 1000 attendees and just great beers).
Saturday:
The Saturday Grand Banquet is shaping up. Here is the Menu created by
Carlos Solis
Mussels Steamed with Rogue Dead Guy Ale
With Julienne Leaks, Carrots and Saffron Infusion
Veal Medallions Crustacean
With Old Crustacean Cream Sauce
Garlic & Sour Cream Mashed Potatoes
Agave Mead Glazed Carrots
Stout Chocolate Mousse Cake
With Rogue Stout Chocolate and Raspberry Sauce
Below is the List of Speakers..
Cheers!
Steve Casselman, AHA Local Committee Chairman
PS. There was a question about prices at the hotel. By corporate contract
with Travlocity there is a small block of rooms at a little lower price than
what we negotiated. They (Travlocity) bought 1000's of room nights across
the US so they get a little better price. If you have signed up through such
a service let me know as we should still get credit for your stay.
American HomeBrewers Conference
June 21-23
Building a Better Yeast Starter, Dr. Maribeth Raines-Casselman,
Brewer's Resource, CEO BeerDiva's Unlimited
Beer Evaluation, Tom Nickel, Stuft Pizza and Brewery
Improving Extract Beers, Charlie Papazian
Fermentation Characteristics, David Logsdon, Wyeast
Beer History, Clive LaPensee
Beer and Food: Pairing/Cooking with Beer
Phil Baxter, VP & General Manager, 4 Point Sheraton;
Carlos Solis, Chef, Master Beer Sommelier
Modeling Lauter Flow in the Grainbed, John Palmer
Beyond Beer, Randy Mosher, The Brewer's Companion, AHA Board
No Sparge Brewing, Louis Bonham, AHA Board
Mead Making, Byron Burch, Author
Maximizing Yeast Performance, Dr. Chris White, Whitelabs Yeast
Cold Steeping, Mary Anne Gruber, Breiss Malting
Hop Characteristics, John Oliver, Brewer BJ's Brea
Beer Dispensing and Nitrogen Switching, Jim Schuster &
Greg Coneard, Draught Beer Guild
Guerrilla Lab Techniques, Louis Bonham, AHA Board
Brewing Real Ales, Tomme Arthur, Head Brewer, Pizza Port
Style Series - Cream Ale, Tom Nickel, Stuft Pizza and Brewery
Style Series - Big Beers, Tomme Arthur, Head Brewer, Pizza Port
Style Series - Smoked Beers, Ray Daniels, AOB Board of Directors&
Geoff Larson, Alaskan Brewing Co.
Style Series - Flemish Red Ale & Oud Bruin, Alex Puchner, Head Brewer BJ's
Style Series - Stouts, John Maier, Rogue Brewing Co.
Style Series - Specialty Beers, Mark Jilg, Craftsman Brewing
Style Series - IPA Hans Johnson, P.H. Woods
Style Series - Czech Pils Lynne O'Connor, St. Pat's Homebrew Shop
AHA Members Non-
Members
Full Conference $220
$260
Guest Package
(food And hospitality) $150
$180
Club Night Only $30
$36
Keynote Luncheon Only $40
$46
L.A. Beer Odyssey
(with Food and all beer) $30
$36
Rogue Ales Grand Banquet $65 $75
Saturday Conference and
Banquet $115
$137
AHA Membership $33
$33
For information see http://www.beerodyssey.com
Tickets for the L.A. Beer Odyssey Real Ale Festival includes Food and gives
you a pass for unlimited samples
Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 19:20:21 +0900
From: Christopher Jon Poel <cjpoel at zb3.so-net.ne.jp>
Subject: Re: Supplies in Japan
Kurt Kiewel wrote:
>I brewed in Japan for a while and never heard of any homebrew shops.
None yet, although some large department stores have "homebrew" sections.
>I'm told that there are brew-pubs in Japan now. Perhaps if there's one in
>your area they'd be willing to part with some grains and yeast in exchange
>for a few English lessons.
I am often able to get grains from microbreweries in exchange for
"volunteering" at some event, which usually involves more drinking
than working.
>Homebrewing in Japan is the only way to go because all four kinds of beer
>they have there are way too expensive not to mention they don't taste like
>anything.
Totally agreed. A six pack will set you back more than $10 -- can you
imagine paying $10 for a six of Bud or Coors or Miller?
>Most Japanese think it's illegal to brew at home. This is simply not true
>so... relax, don't worry yyy..
Actually homebrewing is still against the law, unless alcohol content
is less than 1%. But, the law is rarely, if ever, enforced. Kind of
like the ridiculously low speed limits in Japan -- no one follows
them and the police are only bastards if you really overdo it.
The upshot is, if you want to homebrew in Japan, be prepared to do a
lot of Internet ordering . . . and waiting for the sea mail to
arrive. Plan ahead and have extra equipment and you're fine.
Chris
- --
Chris Poel
Kanda-cho 6-29-403
Numazu-shi, Shizuoka-ken 410-0042 Japan
Tel/Fax: (+81) 0559-26-6917 (Outside Japan, don't dial "0")
E-mail: cjpoel at zb3.so-net.ne.jp
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Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 06:56:50 -0500
From: Rex h <Speleopsycho at earthlink.net>
Subject: Austin Tx
When I go to austin, I always stop in at
"Lovejoys." Great selection cool atmosphere great!! prices
They have brewed on premise and good assortment of better
commercial beers
They are just off of 6th street.
Web= http://home.austin.rr.com/chipsworld/two.html
Enjoy.
Rex
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Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 20:05:50 -0400
From: EdgeAle at cs.com
Subject: learning to brew in the 80's/
Ant Hayes asks..
>>I'd be interested to know if anyone who learned to brew in the 80's/
early 90's read anything else (CJJ Berry perhaps)?<<
You are showing a cultural/geographic bias (How refreshing for it not
to be an American for a change).
Papazian's book was well established by 1989 here in the US. I began
brewing in 1989 and it was the book that came with my initial equipment.
It served me well for years. As for Dave Line's book. I am just now reading
it and fine it good (if dated and definately British oriented when
supplies/suplikers are discussed). I have a friend who began brewing in
1961. He loves Dave Line's book and says discovering it was a turning point
in his brewing. It greatly improved everything about his methods and
results.
I find it a nice addition to my brewing library so far. I doubt I'll
reference it much, but that may change as I continue reading it.
Dana Edgell
EdgeAle at cs.com
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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 19:20:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Practical Brewer pdf - Chapter 11
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
Remember back in May of 1998 when the MBAA gratiously published The
Practical Brewer as a pdf on their web site? Did you donload it? Did
Chapter 11 open for you? If so, please contact me. Mine won't open :-(
- --
-
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
from my yeast lab Saturday
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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 20:33:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: RE: Learning to brew in the 80's
Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...
The first book I ever used was "Home Wine and Beer Making" by Gladys Mann,
ca 1975. Not a real good one, in retrospect, but it was new when I
started. The NEXT book I bought was Papazian's "The New Complete Joy of
Home Brewing", and I bought that in '94...
Recently (like, in '95 or so...) a friend gave me a copy of "Brewing
Without Failure" by HR Ravery which predates the Mann book by 15 years.
Haven't taken the time to review it, and am in no real hurry to do so.
Yup. Info is much better and more readily available today, that's for
sure!
- --
-
See ya!
Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
from my yeast lab Saturday
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Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 20:33:28 -0500
From: "marc_hawley" <marc_hawley at email.msn.com>
Subject: oxygenation
Anybody ever try putting hydrogen peroxide into the fresh wort when pitching
the yeast? This would release oxygen directly to the wort. Just an idea.
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