HOMEBREW Digest #3655 Sat 09 June 2001

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  Re: Alf and Betty (was Dave Line) (David Lamotte)
  Dave Line and Brewing Books Generally ("Abby, Ellen and Alan")
  Re: Casking Real Ale (Jay\) Reeves" <jay666 at bellsouth.net>
  re:babel ("Nathaniel P. Lansing")
  Homebrewed Cask Ale ("Ray Daniels")
  Re: Dave Line (Jeff Renner)
  bran instead of rice hulls (Weaver Joseph Todd Capt 39 MDG/SGOAM)
  Plastic discrimination... ("Pannicke, Glen A.")
  [Fwd: Casking Real Ale] (Mike Bardallis)
  Odd Kegging Problem (Stephen Johnson)
  Glass Carboys (Nathan Kanous)
  carboy screw caps? ("Stephen")
  Books other than Line's (Frank Tutzauer)
  Confessions of a glass snob (Frank Tutzauer)
  Too much Oak (Nathan Matta)
  AHA Conference Update (Steve Casselman)
  Re: Supplies in Japan (Christopher Jon Poel)
  Austin Tx (Rex h)
  learning to brew in the 80's/ (EdgeAle)
  Practical Brewer pdf - Chapter 11 (Pat Babcock)
  RE: Learning to brew in the 80's (Pat Babcock)
  oxygenation ("marc_hawley")

* * 2001 AHA NHC - 2001: A Beer Odyssey, Los Angeles, CA * June 20th-23rd See http://www.beerodyssey.com for more * information. Wear an HBD ID Badge to wear to the gig! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we canoot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 15:50:38 +1000 From: David Lamotte <lamotted at ozemail.com.au> Subject: Re: Alf and Betty (was Dave Line) Ant Hayes agrees with Dr. Pivo as they both ... "use Alf and Betty to remember their preferences for temperature and mash thickness." I can't remember where I read it, but I refer to the amylese family as Axe and Bite. The Alpha 'axe' chops up the long starch chains, whereas the Beta 'Bites' maltose molecules off the ends. Same ending, but different story and characters. David Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 07:54:52 -0300 From: "Abby, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca> Subject: Dave Line and Brewing Books Generally Glad to see some postings about books as I think I have spent as much on books about brewing as I have on ingredients this year - and I brew 5 gallons about every three weeks. I want to add my recommendation for Dave Line's "Big Book..." as a must read. One reason I think it is important is to place where we are today in context. I hunt out older popular books such as his other book "Brewing Beers Like Those You Buy", C.J.J. Berry's "Home Brewed Beers and Stouts" and Tayleur's "The Penguin Book of Home Brewing and Wine-Making." I see Berry and Tayleur as first generation 1960's texts reflecting the world after the 1963 end of UK homebrewing taxation, while Line reflects the 1970's and the question "what can now be done with this right to brew and this malt I have." I see the AHA style Books and Papazian's books as a third wave in the 1980's to mid-90'of focusing of sometimes overwhelming specificity of output which says "I can make anything with a bit of yeast and malt and...everything else in the cupboard." I look at newer texts such as the Szamatulski's "Clonebrews" and Noonan's "Seven Barrel Brewery..." which, for example, list specific yeast strains and degrees "L" of crystal malt as the current wave of popular writing at its best - very much aimed at the specific ingredients available and alternatives. I am disappointed when I buy a new book such as the otherwise excellent "Brew Your Own British Real Ale" only to find that the authors do not recommend specific strains of yeast. [My only fear with book collecting is that I will get really itchy for a copy of the 18th century "London and Country Brewer" which is listed on the internet at a couple of thousand bucks.] These sorts of books do not necessarily at any stage of the hobby's development fully reflect the technical or scientific side of the making of beer expressed here in large part but they do show the other side - how ordinary folk have tried to expand their capability and enjoyment of brewing. [Perhaps you also learn how bad an author's back page photo can look as well! Terry Foster really should have been getting a few more yours snooze in before the photo shoot for "Pale Ale."] I know before I brew I find myself for a couple of days laying around the living room with a stack of my books from all eras looking for ideas to bring together for the next "sup." I would encourage anyone interested in moving from a beginner to a intermediate brewer especially to hit the second hand shops and the discount bins and read everything you can find. You will find interesting and odd personalities like Ken Shales, Dave Line and Charles Papazian. You will also find that, just as the HBD reminds us that we are now a very diverse and well populated bunch, that in the past we have been equally eccentric and confident in our desire to get a swell pint of brew out of those lovely little yeast cells. Alan McLeod in PEI Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 06:34:03 -0500 From: "James \(Jay\) Reeves" <jay666 at bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: Casking Real Ale Dan Temple asked about doing a cask conditioned ale in HBD #3654 I'd recommend that you let it ferment completely out then prime it. Unless you know exactly where the final gravity will land, letting it finish it's ferment in the cask will not give you dependable carbonation results. In the UK, most brewers rack their beer to the cask with 0.0005 to 0.002 above it's final SG to prime the cask, but that requires you know exactly where it's gonna land before hand. A typical cask conditioned beer should have 0.75 to 1.0 volume of CO2 when served. I like to prime mine to around 1.25 to 1.5 and let it come down over the course of a few days after a soft spile has been drove into the shive. I use approximately 48 grams of corn sugar to prime a pin and 78 grams to prime a firkin, which is what it sounds like you are using. But those amounts are also dependant on how much CO2 is still in solution when you prime it, which is dependant on the temperature the ferment has been carried out at and its current temperature. There was an article at the Brewery web site about how much priming sugar to use to achieve a certain carbonation level taking the temperature into consideration - you may want to go find that. After I prime mine, I let it sit for a minimum of two weeks between 55F-60F. Then I serve it at about 55-57F. The milder ales I put on in 2-3 weeks, the stronger and/or darker ones I may let sit for 4 weeks or longer. The way publicans in England tell a cask is ready is to spile it and sample it over the course of a few days. When the condition, flavor, & appearance are right, it goes on. As far as head space, I don't leave much and I have pretty good success - about an inch below the shive opening. Also you didn't mention how you were going to dry hop, but using plugs is the easiest, which is what I believe the UK brewers use to dry hop. Have fun & welcome to the world of casking! -Jay Reeves Huntsville, AL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 08:39:56 -0400 From: "Nathaniel P. Lansing" <delbrew at compuserve.com> Subject: re:babel Steve says: >>have no lust for oxygen and even as a strategic advantage can accomplish most of their life cycle without any O2 !! << After previously saying in 3618: >>Yeast with decent glycogen levels (that's when an iodine test is useful) >will use air saturation level of O2 (0.27mMol/L), ferment almost all of >their acid soluble glycogen and lose 20% of dry mass and increase total >sterol levels from 0.1% to 1% and UFAs similarly increased in the first 2 >hours after pitching - the lag period. Contrary to HB lore, the lag period >is very important. It's about converting glycogen stores + O2 to sterols >and UFAs. >There may be clever ways to make the yeast happy, not aerate the wort, and >not add to the flavor difficulties, but I don't have any such method. > -Steve This seems to imply a serious need for oxygen. At least in our context of brewing beer. Yeast like the oxygen to utilize for more rapid reproduction. Given that the essence of all creatures is to feed and multiply for continuance of the species; that yeast can survive without oxygen no way means they aren't more prolific in its' presence. >>But unlike most yeasts our brewing S.cerevisiae ferment sugars >>never found in fruit,<< Again quite specious. So that man has chosen a few hundred yeasts for their favorable fermentation characteristics from 10's of thousands yeasts doesn't change that these are in fact wild yeast, we just brewing with the tasty ones. There are too many natural sources of polysaccharides to begin listing; barley is an obvious place to start. >>No and stop making up things I supposedly said<< after you saying in #3614: SA>>Well you've seen some inputs but one confused poster writes: GF >I came up with this test in the late 1980s when I was writing the > first edition of [...] SA>>Yeah - and Al Gore invented the internet. When the real quote was >...late 1980s when I was writing the first edition >of PBS. The procedure was presented at the AHA National > Conference held in Estes Park, Co. (which BTW was the best > homebrewing conference I have ever attended!). The references > you cited were from this and a later meeting. NPL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 07:55:26 -0500 From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan at ameritech.net> Subject: Homebrewed Cask Ale Dan Temple asks for tips on making cask ale at home. Here are a few. For starters, remember that the 9-gallon cask called a firkin is measured in British units. Thus you'll need to make 10.8 U.S. gallons of beer to fill one. A more practical alternative, if you can find one, is the 4.5 Imperial gallon "pin" which you can fill will just 5.4 (US) gallons of homebrew. Second, remember that air is generally admitted to the cask when you begin serving the beer. Thus it goes both flat and bad after a few days. CO2 blanket pressure can be used to slow these effects, but some consider this practice an unspeakable heresy. The other alternative is to have a big party. Third, while many British commercial brewers cask their beers with a bit of residual fermentability rather than priming, they have the benefit of long experience in getting it just right. US brewers (both home and commercial) generally prefer to let things ferment out and then prime with sugar at filling just as you would for bottle conditioning. The goal with priming is to add 0.001 to 0.002 SG of fermentable sugar. Using corn sugar, this would equal 0.25 to 0.5 pound (4 - 8 ounces by weight) of corn sugar for 10.8 gallons. You do not need to leave a headspace in the cask -- commercial brewers certainly don't. In any case, the pressure developed will be the same. Furthermore, if properly handled the cask will be vented with a soft spile before serving to allow for a gentle release of the excess gas. Finally, we'll have an article on making real ale at home -- although using corny kegs rather than casks -- in the Sept/October issue Zymurgy. Cheers! Ray Daniels Editor-in-Chief, Zymurgy & The New Brewer Real Ale Festival Organizer E-mail: ray at aob.org Don't Miss: National Homebrewers Conference, Los Angeles - June 21-23 Celebrate American Beer Month in July (See www.americanbeermonth.com) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 09:03:12 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: Dave Line Ant Hayes of Gauteng; South Africa, repeated Doc P's praises of Dave Line (to which I will add mine), and wrote: >I'd be interested to know if anyone who learned to brew in the 80's/ >early 90's read anything else (CJJ Berry perhaps)? I learned to brew in the early to mid 70's, when there was very little information at all. I do indeed have Berry's "Home brewed Beers and Stouts" on my shelf, but I didn't find it until the late 70's, when I first tried mashing. It was around 1980 that I got Dave Line's book. What a revelation! Intelligently written, easy to understand, accurate information. Like Ant, I still think of Alf and Betty to remember which enzyme is which. I seem to have lost another book that was typical of what I could find before the late 70s (and I bought anything I could get my hands on). This gem of misinformation told the author's secret of successful beer that no other author had ever discovered. He had discovered this secret when visiting a brewery, and he was willing to share it. It was that when you mixed the malt extract and water, you then had to let it "rest" at 153 deg. F for an hour for the enzymes to work before proceeding with the boil. Really! Fortunately, I had figured out enough brewing science to know that this was nonsense, but this was typical of what we had to work with in the dark ages. Drink a toast tonight to Dave Line, patriarch of modern homebrewing! I hope he's brewing and drinking with the angels. Jeff - -- ***Please note new address*** (old one will still work) Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 15:06:47 +0200 From: Weaver Joseph Todd Capt 39 MDG/SGOAM <Joseph.Weaver at incirlik.af.mil> Subject: bran instead of rice hulls Collective, Can't get rice hulls here in Turkey very easily. They quit growing rice in this area to reduce mosquito breeding habitat for malaria control. Anyway, what about using wheat bran instead of rice hulls to aid filtration and prevent stuck sparges? Todd in Turkey Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 10:22:52 -0400 From: "Pannicke, Glen A." <glen_pannicke at merck.com> Subject: Plastic discrimination... Scott Morgan wrote: >Well this is some anti-glass discussion. You must remember that >carboys are not native to Oz and many other countries. See, that is one of the benefits of living in America. We have just about everything at our disposal - maybe with the exception of genital sucking frogs and Mr. Sanders. But you guys can keep them ;-) >Seems this comes up about once a year and I seriously question the >logic of some, and thier cleaning and brewing practices. Yes, the debate always comes around and it always has the same arguements. In order to participate, you must exclusively join a glass, plastic or stainless camp. Crossing the lines is unacceptable. Phooey! I use all three because they all have equivalent pros and cons when applied to brewing across the board. However, if you look at the pros of each, you'll discover that their pros outweigh the cons when applied to particular styles of brewing. I'm not going to list them all. I'm sure you know them. But for the most part lagers fare best in glass and stainless because of air ingress during lagering. Ales are best in plastic so you can skim or add fruit, if desired. Barleywines, old ales and lambics start out in plastic and wind up in glass for aging. I'll stop there. As for cleaning, you couldn't convince me of one over the other either. Take the limited access of the carboy and compare that to the limited visual inspection of a corny. Then compare those to the scratched up carboy that has retained some funky fruit odors. Again, no clear victor. Only thorough mechanical cleaning followed by proper sanitation with chemical agents can one ensure good cleaning practices - regardless of material. >Rolling your fermenter around, I dont think so. Possible in anything, but a bucket ;-) Carpe cerevisiae! Glen A. Pannicke glen at pannicke.net http://www.pannicke.net 75CE 0DED 59E1 55AB 830F 214D 17D7 192D 8384 00DD "I have made this letter longer than usual, because I lack the time to make it short." - Blaise Pascal Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:51:07 -0400 From: Mike Bardallis <dbgrowler at provide.net> Subject: [Fwd: Casking Real Ale] It is best to let the ale ferment out completely before racking to the cask; conditioning level is easier to predict and manage, and you'll have less lees in the cask. 1/2 cup (dry, US) sugar for priming should do you. And you should definitely leave a bit of ullage (headspace.) CO2 pressure is not an issue, as it just dissolves in the beer if it has nowhere else to go. The issue is that gas is compressible and liquid (for all practical purposes) is not. Without a cushion of gas, thermal expansion could cause the beer to push the shive out and cause a tragic loss of beer. I shudder to think.... Mike Bardallis Allen Park, MI, where a firkin of bitter will pour Saturday to commemorate batch #200.... Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:00:03 -0500 From: Stephen Johnson <Stephen.Johnson at vanderbilt.edu> Subject: Odd Kegging Problem A post recently from: "Jamie Smith" <jxsmith at vac-acc.gc.ca> on PEI asks about a friend: Subject: Odd problem with kegged beer in which the last beer out of the keg is actually water. He also adds that: "His fridge temp is like mine, just at or below freezing. I don't have this problem. Any ideas?" My guess is that there is some freezing going on inside the keg, and that when all of the beer is consumed, the ice collects at the bottom and melts and is then the last liquid out of the keg. It could be that his temperature contoller on the fridge where the beer is stored is off enough that the temp. inside is enough below 0C to freeze some of the beer, creating an ice beer, in effect. Just a guess, but I might recommend raising the temp in the fridge about 4C. I have never had that problem, because I don't like to drink my beer that cold to begin with. Steve Johnson Nashville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:06:29 -0500 From: Nathan Kanous <nlkanous at pharmacy.wisc.edu> Subject: Glass Carboys Ah, Scott blesses us with wisdom regarding the use of plastic vs. glass and comments that "You must remember that carboys are not native to Oz and many other countries". In fact, I don't think many carboys are native to the US. Every one I have says "made in Mexico" on the bottom. Go NAFTA! nathan in madison, wi Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:19:49 -0400 From: "Stephen" <stephennyc at about.com> Subject: carboy screw caps? Stephen Klump wrote: > Use the screw cap to seal the wort + yeast > and turn the carbouy onto its side and roll > back and forth to mix the yeast in well for > primary fermentation (try THAT with a plastic > bucket! ;-)) Where do I get one of these screw tops? - Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:36:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu> Subject: Books other than Line's Ant Hayes has a question about decade-old homebrew books: >I'd be interested to know if anyone who learned to brew in the 80's/ >early 90's read anything [other than David Line]... I began brewing in 1991, and Papazian and Miller were pretty much the only show in town, although Byron Burch had a skinny little paperback that was ok (with good pictures). Now, of course, there's all kinds of good resources. I didn't get David Line's book until a couple of years later, but his recipes and techniques were quite different than was common in the American homebrewing scene, so it didn't influence me too much. Frankly, as is true for many of you, the most valuable information I got was from the HomeBrew Digest, although that was some 3000 odd Digests ago. The HBD has changed quite a bit in these 10 years--for example, there were way more recipes back then, and I'd never even *heard* of an Australian(!)--but then, as now, there were lots of folks willing to talk things through with a novice homebrewer. --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 12:39:35 -0400 (EDT) From: Frank Tutzauer <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu> Subject: Confessions of a glass snob After Scotty's defense of plastic, I must confess: I was once a glass snob. When I began homebrewing, I listened to all those who said that plastic would produce off-tastes, would scratch and harbor bacteria, and so forth. Also, some fellow in the HBD convinced me to use the blow-off method of fermenting by arguing that you should taste the blow off some time. It's foul and disgusting. Then, he said, not knowing what it was, would you ever intentionally add something so disgusting to your beer? I found that argument very persuasive, and elected to go with a 5-gallon glass carboy with a blow off tube as my primary fermenter. Fast forward eight years, when I began brewing regularly with a coupla friends. Sometimes we'd brew at my house, sometimes at theirs. The first few times I used my trusty glass carboy, but a full glass carboy jouncing around in the bed of my pick up truck over Buffalo's pot-holed streets led to too much worrying and not enough relaxing, so I began using a 7-gallon plastic bucket. This is *far* superior for transportation purposes. Although I never had any real problem cleaning my carboys, I found that cleaning the bucket was easier. Also, not having to muck about with the damned blowoff hose was much to my liking (with no apparent effect on the beer). So now, I pretty much use plastic buckets for primaries, although if they're full, I'll walk on the dark side for a brew or two. Fortunately, the bucket and carboy have pretty much the same H:W ratio, so I'm all set there. (That was a *joke* folks!) --frank Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 13:34:29 -0400 From: Nathan Matta <whatsa at MIT.EDU> Subject: Too much Oak Well, I've gone and done it. I thought I'd try a mild recipe from a recent BYO, which involved boiling with and fermenting on a small quantity of oak chips. So, the mild is great, but there's a sharp bite right up front that I think detracts from it. Clearly, this is the oak chips. OK, I know what I've done wrong, does anyone have any suggestions on ways to improve this beer? I've considered serving it ice-cold like lemonade (but I haven't tried it yet), or adding a flavored sweetener at serving time. Perhaps it will age out? Thanks for any advice! Nathan ======================================== Nathan Matta Fuzzy Beer Home Brewery Randolph, MA, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 11:15:57 -0700 From: Steve Casselman <sc at vcc.com> Subject: AHA Conference Update Here is an update on the AHA conference. June 20-23 Thursday: Club Night has turned into a mini HomeBrewers Fest in a big way. The hotel has allowed us to bring our Beer Bars. For anyone who has not been to the Southern California Homebrewers Festival (SCHF) this is something to see. Each club has a Beer Bar with anywhere from 10-30 taps on them. At the SCHF about 30 clubs and 1200 people show up. Friday: The Friday Night Beer Festival is going to be Great. We will have around 30 Real Ales, all on Hand Pumps, and 30 draft beers. Brewin Beagle will let us use the beer engines that Pizza Port shipped in for their Real Ale Fest (which was great with over 1000 attendees and just great beers). Saturday: The Saturday Grand Banquet is shaping up. Here is the Menu created by Carlos Solis Mussels Steamed with Rogue Dead Guy Ale With Julienne Leaks, Carrots and Saffron Infusion Veal Medallions Crustacean With Old Crustacean Cream Sauce Garlic & Sour Cream Mashed Potatoes Agave Mead Glazed Carrots Stout Chocolate Mousse Cake With Rogue Stout Chocolate and Raspberry Sauce Below is the List of Speakers.. Cheers! Steve Casselman, AHA Local Committee Chairman PS. There was a question about prices at the hotel. By corporate contract with Travlocity there is a small block of rooms at a little lower price than what we negotiated. They (Travlocity) bought 1000's of room nights across the US so they get a little better price. If you have signed up through such a service let me know as we should still get credit for your stay. American HomeBrewers Conference June 21-23 Building a Better Yeast Starter, Dr. Maribeth Raines-Casselman, Brewer's Resource, CEO BeerDiva's Unlimited Beer Evaluation, Tom Nickel, Stuft Pizza and Brewery Improving Extract Beers, Charlie Papazian Fermentation Characteristics, David Logsdon, Wyeast Beer History, Clive LaPensee Beer and Food: Pairing/Cooking with Beer Phil Baxter, VP & General Manager, 4 Point Sheraton; Carlos Solis, Chef, Master Beer Sommelier Modeling Lauter Flow in the Grainbed, John Palmer Beyond Beer, Randy Mosher, The Brewer's Companion, AHA Board No Sparge Brewing, Louis Bonham, AHA Board Mead Making, Byron Burch, Author Maximizing Yeast Performance, Dr. Chris White, Whitelabs Yeast Cold Steeping, Mary Anne Gruber, Breiss Malting Hop Characteristics, John Oliver, Brewer BJ's Brea Beer Dispensing and Nitrogen Switching, Jim Schuster & Greg Coneard, Draught Beer Guild Guerrilla Lab Techniques, Louis Bonham, AHA Board Brewing Real Ales, Tomme Arthur, Head Brewer, Pizza Port Style Series - Cream Ale, Tom Nickel, Stuft Pizza and Brewery Style Series - Big Beers, Tomme Arthur, Head Brewer, Pizza Port Style Series - Smoked Beers, Ray Daniels, AOB Board of Directors& Geoff Larson, Alaskan Brewing Co. Style Series - Flemish Red Ale & Oud Bruin, Alex Puchner, Head Brewer BJ's Style Series - Stouts, John Maier, Rogue Brewing Co. Style Series - Specialty Beers, Mark Jilg, Craftsman Brewing Style Series - IPA Hans Johnson, P.H. Woods Style Series - Czech Pils Lynne O'Connor, St. Pat's Homebrew Shop AHA Members Non- Members Full Conference $220 $260 Guest Package (food And hospitality) $150 $180 Club Night Only $30 $36 Keynote Luncheon Only $40 $46 L.A. Beer Odyssey (with Food and all beer) $30 $36 Rogue Ales Grand Banquet $65 $75 Saturday Conference and Banquet $115 $137 AHA Membership $33 $33 For information see http://www.beerodyssey.com Tickets for the L.A. Beer Odyssey Real Ale Festival includes Food and gives you a pass for unlimited samples Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 19:20:21 +0900 From: Christopher Jon Poel <cjpoel at zb3.so-net.ne.jp> Subject: Re: Supplies in Japan Kurt Kiewel wrote: >I brewed in Japan for a while and never heard of any homebrew shops. None yet, although some large department stores have "homebrew" sections. >I'm told that there are brew-pubs in Japan now. Perhaps if there's one in >your area they'd be willing to part with some grains and yeast in exchange >for a few English lessons. I am often able to get grains from microbreweries in exchange for "volunteering" at some event, which usually involves more drinking than working. >Homebrewing in Japan is the only way to go because all four kinds of beer >they have there are way too expensive not to mention they don't taste like >anything. Totally agreed. A six pack will set you back more than $10 -- can you imagine paying $10 for a six of Bud or Coors or Miller? >Most Japanese think it's illegal to brew at home. This is simply not true >so... relax, don't worry yyy.. Actually homebrewing is still against the law, unless alcohol content is less than 1%. But, the law is rarely, if ever, enforced. Kind of like the ridiculously low speed limits in Japan -- no one follows them and the police are only bastards if you really overdo it. The upshot is, if you want to homebrew in Japan, be prepared to do a lot of Internet ordering . . . and waiting for the sea mail to arrive. Plan ahead and have extra equipment and you're fine. Chris - -- Chris Poel Kanda-cho 6-29-403 Numazu-shi, Shizuoka-ken 410-0042 Japan Tel/Fax: (+81) 0559-26-6917 (Outside Japan, don't dial "0") E-mail: cjpoel at zb3.so-net.ne.jp Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 06:56:50 -0500 From: Rex h <Speleopsycho at earthlink.net> Subject: Austin Tx When I go to austin, I always stop in at "Lovejoys." Great selection cool atmosphere great!! prices They have brewed on premise and good assortment of better commercial beers They are just off of 6th street. Web= http://home.austin.rr.com/chipsworld/two.html Enjoy. Rex Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 08 Jun 2001 20:05:50 -0400 From: EdgeAle at cs.com Subject: learning to brew in the 80's/ Ant Hayes asks.. >>I'd be interested to know if anyone who learned to brew in the 80's/ early 90's read anything else (CJJ Berry perhaps)?<< You are showing a cultural/geographic bias (How refreshing for it not to be an American for a change). Papazian's book was well established by 1989 here in the US. I began brewing in 1989 and it was the book that came with my initial equipment. It served me well for years. As for Dave Line's book. I am just now reading it and fine it good (if dated and definately British oriented when supplies/suplikers are discussed). I have a friend who began brewing in 1961. He loves Dave Line's book and says discovering it was a turning point in his brewing. It greatly improved everything about his methods and results. I find it a nice addition to my brewing library so far. I doubt I'll reference it much, but that may change as I continue reading it. Dana Edgell EdgeAle at cs.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 19:20:11 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Practical Brewer pdf - Chapter 11 Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Remember back in May of 1998 when the MBAA gratiously published The Practical Brewer as a pdf on their web site? Did you donload it? Did Chapter 11 open for you? If so, please contact me. Mine won't open :-( - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 20:33:36 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: RE: Learning to brew in the 80's Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... The first book I ever used was "Home Wine and Beer Making" by Gladys Mann, ca 1975. Not a real good one, in retrospect, but it was new when I started. The NEXT book I bought was Papazian's "The New Complete Joy of Home Brewing", and I bought that in '94... Recently (like, in '95 or so...) a friend gave me a copy of "Brewing Without Failure" by HR Ravery which predates the Mann book by 15 years. Haven't taken the time to review it, and am in no real hurry to do so. Yup. Info is much better and more readily available today, that's for sure! - -- - See ya! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2001 20:33:28 -0500 From: "marc_hawley" <marc_hawley at email.msn.com> Subject: oxygenation Anybody ever try putting hydrogen peroxide into the fresh wort when pitching the yeast? This would release oxygen directly to the wort. Just an idea. Return to table of contents
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