HOMEBREW Digest #3672 Fri 29 June 2001

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  quality dry lager yeast ("Colin Marshall")
  Subject: conversion (wayne.aldrich)
  context and tragedy ("Stephen Alexander")
  saflager dry yeast ("Dr. Pivo")
  Yeast ("Steve")
  RE: Growing Hops Beetles and Pruning ("J. Doug Brown")
  Re: Conversions ("Peter Fantasia")
  RE: LONG soak in B-brite (Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger)
  Half-Wit Rye (leavitdg)
  Re:  Tygon tubing source? ("Dennis Collins")
  Re: Barley Crusher Malt Mill (Len Safhay)
  protecting hops ("Joseph Marsh")
  Rice in CAP/ CACA ("Doug Hurst")
  Hops growing in South ("Steven Parfitt")
  no need to shake my hand, no (Chris Hatton)
  Michigan State Fair Homebrew Competition Announcement ("Jim Suchy")
  Re:growing hops and trimming vines (Dave Wills)
  Re: Calories in beer (Chad Clancy)
  Heating without Scorching (was: Re: Jeff's CAP/Cream Ale recipes) ("Anders Lundquist")
  Re: Montreal ("B.R. Rolya")
  Re: pruning hops ("Kurt Schweter")
  Ulm (homebre973)
  Ringwood Yeast (Wyeast 1187) ("Thomas D. Hamann")
  Calories in a 12oz ("Jeffry D Luck")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:28:21 +1000 From: "Colin Marshall" <byoah at argay.com.au> Subject: quality dry lager yeast Stephen Ross was talking about Saflager. Here in the land of milk and honey (Oz), we get DCL Saflager S-23, S-189 and W34/70. The latter is the best, in my opinion. They work briskly and attenuate very well. We buy in bulk and re-package for retail sale. As long as they are refrigerated straight away, they have a shelf life of 2 years. Normally, they only sit in the fridge for 2 months. Also available are Safale S-04, T-58, S-33 and K-97. For details go to www.dclyeast.co.uk/ No affiliation blah blah blah, except that I sell and recommend their products. Colin Marshall BrewYourOwnAtHome Canberra. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 03:53:52 -0400 From: wayne.aldrich at dtra.mil Subject: Subject: conversion Darrell was asking about the mash and sparge water acidification / starch conversion relationship. The pH value of the mash is essential for enzyme reactions to occur. Lowering the pH value of the mash to 5.5 ~ 5.6 results in: 1. Higher attenuation limit 2. More extensive protein breakdowns resulting in the production of more high and low molecular weight protein degradation products. 3. Reduction of the mash viscosity 4. More rapid lautering 5. Reduction of increased color changes during the wort boil. These advantages occur in the mash only. The activity of phosphates is increased as a result of lowering the pH in the mash. The release of these phosphate ions has a buffering effect on the wort. Therefore, the wort must also be acidified. The advantages of BOTH mash and wort acidification are: 1. A shorter (optimized) mash process. 2. More rapid lautering due to lower mash viscosity. 3. A better brewhouse beer yield. 4. A mild increase in mash zinc yield. 5. A faster (cleaner) fermentation/maturation. 6. Better foam stability. 7. A softer beer mouthfeel. The pH of the mash should be 5.4 ~ 5.6. The pH of the wort should be 5.1 ~ 5.2. There are several ways to lower mash/wort pH levels. The easiest method is the addition of lactic acid to the mash and sparge water. Caution a little lactic acid goes a long way! Depending on the concentration of the lactic acid used as little as a teaspoonful may be enough for the mash used for a 5-gallon batch of beer. Another teaspoon in the sparge water should give you a final pre-boiled wort pH of around 5.5. To ensure your finished wort has an optimal pH of 5.1 ~ 5.2 the addition of an additional teaspoon of lactic acid added during the last 30 minutes of the boil may be required. There are no simple solutions. Everyone has different pH levels in their water at the beginning of the brewing process. You need to determine the pH level at the beginning of every brewing process. Subtle changes in pH will occur with different barley sources due to the presence of lactic acid bacteria on the husk of the barleycorn. Bottom line, you need to test your pH level at different stages of every beer brewing session. Paper test strips can be used but a calibrated pH meter will produce much more accurate results. Having said all of this keep in mind you can brew very good beer without ever knowing anything about your water/mash/wort pH levels. But if you are trying to produce consistently good quality beer pH is important. Wayne C. Aldrich The best audience is intelligent, well educated, and a little drunk. - Alben W. Barkely (1877-1956) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 05:10:05 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: context and tragedy Del writes ... 1/ > If I said I sent my son to the garage for the Visegrips(r) and he >"came up with" a Channelocks(r) did I say he invented them? 2/ >Anyway you do it all the time; frinstance I said yeast evolved in a [...] 3/ > You had said a mash-out was of little consequence, and the Tuborg >trials showed this, >then admitted the trials were_not_ a test of mash-out, >and that a test of mash-out would be hard to do because of the variables. 4/ >Then there was something about how acid washing isn't even effective >at sanitizing a yeast culture, All these were discussed, some long ago. More fundamental - this is all 100% OFF-TOPIC wrt the H:W discussion where it began. I'd suggest we take it off-line, but I have no interest in re-hashing ancient debates unless you've something new to say. === [...] > Then you said there is no relation between pH and conductivity. Close - I really said ... S[...] S> A pretty long shot guess for someone who thinks S>pH is related to conductivity.<< D> It does, that is the only thing the electrolytic junction in a D>pH probe can measure. pH meters measure VOLTAGE at (ideally) no current flow. That's what electrometers do. The probe creates a potential (voltage) as AJ has described, but your extrapolation that the current is measured or even continues after the potential equilibrates is wrong. Your contention that pH *is* conductivity - is just plain undeniably wrong - that's why I answered you offline (a year+ ago!). ===== > Then you said testing for H:W would be nearly impossible because > of difficulty controlling all the variables, but now you are conducting > an experiment that is going to do all that? [...] No I said PROVING (not testing) the generalization would be extremely difficult. I've tested it a couple times and found no discernible effect. My current test can't prove the proposition either. Have you no idea what would be involved in proving such a generalized statement ? >Ahh, now I seeing the humor, heh heh [...] >Ha Ha Ha. Well I guess that gave you chance to air that list of grudges you've been harboring for years and gave the rest of us a view of your knowledge, reason and psyche. I don't care about the insults, the lack of coherent argument, the pointless repetition or obvious errors. 'Gunny sacking' all this hatred for years and dumping it for no apparent reason - that bothers me. My suggestion, Del, is that you find some interest more constructive than focusing obsessively on what I write and keeping lists of grievances for years. I won't be responding to your posts anymore - that may help. That chip on your shoulders obviously prevents you from hearing what I am saying so there is no future in a discussion. Sincerely wish you well Del, and I've enjoyed parts of our off-line discussions. You do know quite a lot about brewing, but I haven't time for off-topic ancient topic rehashes and arguing basics to the recalcitrant. -Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 12:16:04 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: saflager dry yeast The ever helpful Stephen Ross writes: > Saflager S-23 is a great yeast, somewhat like Wyeast 2247, > performs well at 12C and retains its lager characteristics at the warmer end > as well, making it an alternative for the cooler 2112 temps 13C-17C. > > We're also looking at S-189, currently available only in 500gm units. > I will attest to "189" as a "true" lager yeast. "True" enough that commercial lager breweries use it (hence the large package size). "True" enough that a local brewery switched from Huerliman's (liquid) to it, and I didn't notice (and they say I have a "golden tongue"(?))! I've used it quite a while and find it does everything that a liquid lager yeast does, except it is a little rougher to get started..... once it's rocking it is as lagery as they get. One local brewer has been using the same batch for over a year. He always brews in "pairs". He starts his saved yeast... brews and pitches it. When it comes to high krauzen be brews again and racks over some krauzen directly to the new brew. Don't know if it is his "krauzen racking" that has kept his strain "misscreant free", but I recently tasted his "summer pils" and it was lovely and free of off flavours.... he believes it is his krauzen harvesting that has kept it "unmutated", and certainly krauzen skimming was a traditional harvesting manner (could this be a limiting factor in saving "gook" from the bottom, or racking off a slowed CKT?). When brewing the "Pivo/Yates pilsner" (or was it "Yates/Pivo?), Wes kindly supplied us with what I believe was S-23, which Phil pitched in half of the wort. His preculture had a distinct banana ester aroma, which I would of attributed to "warm culturing" and would of thought would have dissapeared during the 10C primary, but in fact was apparent all the way through to the final beer. That's just a "one-off" evaluation, and doesn't say much, but I've got literally thousands of litres brewed with S-189, and outside of the fact that you nearly have to beat it to death to get it to squeeze out any diacetyl, I'm completely satisfied that it behaves as it should. Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 06:24:09 -0400 From: "Steve" <stjones1 at chartertn.net> Subject: Yeast Greetings, all. Here is a question for the yeast gurus out there. Whenever I buy a smak-pak or vial of yeast, I pour the last drop into a prepared slant and allow it to grow. Then when I want to use it again, I just drag out a sample and grow it up thru several steps. I've got several strains of yeast on slant, some of which are a few years old. I've got a friend who grows bugs for a living, and he has offered to plate out and re-slant my yeasts. The problem is that one of my slants is not labeled. I'm pretty sure that it is a Bavarian Lager, but I wouldn't want to rely on my aging memory and have it turn out to be 1056 or something. Is there any way to identify the yeast by sight (thru a scope, of course). Is there a discernable difference in appearance between different strains? How about between Lager & Ale yeast? If he could determine that it is a lager yeast by comparing its appearance to the Bohemian Pilsner yeast, then I could be certain that it is the Bavarian Lager since that is the only other lager yeast I have used. Thanks, Steve Jones State of Franklin Homebrewers Johnson City, TN http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:21:42 -0400 From: "J. Doug Brown" <dougbrown at citynet.net> Subject: RE: Growing Hops Beetles and Pruning I too am growing hops and this should be my first year where I am able to harvest any, so this advise comes from previous reading and my retention of it. I have 2 books that I could recommend on growning hops. I believe their titles are: "Growing Hops" and the "Homebrewers Garden". My hops bines are now on their second year. For japanese beetle problems you may use a beetle trap placed away from the hops bines. However these can sometimes attract more beetles to the area, although they do trap and kill thousands. I have heard of spraying the plants with a mild dishwashing liquid and water mixture to deter some insect attact, but cant remember if it was for beetles, or aphids. I guess the bugs don't like the taste of soap any more than young kids. I think there is even a good organic solution which was to place a sacraficial (I think)egg plant near to attract the beetles to it instead of the hops. Not sure of the type of plant. Any takers? Hops pruning to 2-3 good growing bines at the base is recommended to encourage vertical growth, keep the base airy, allow easier removal of the lower 2-3 feet of leaves once the vine is tall. Mone of my hops plants only sent up 1 strong bine and it has now grown above my 2 story tall roof that the twine support ran up to. The removal of the lower leaves it helps discourage folliage feeders. I would recommend allowing the side shoots from the bine itself above the 2-3 defoliation line. Hope this info is helpful Doug - -- J. Doug Brown - Fairmont, WV Software Engineer at ProLogic, Inc. mailto:dougbrown at citynet.net mailto:dbrown at prologic-inc.com http://members.citynet.net/kbrown/Doug http://www.prologic-inc.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:42:20 -0400 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Conversions Gary asked about a formula to convert liquid and dry extract to grain. An old issue of Zymurgy had this in it and I've used it successfully. 1lb. dry extract = 1.33 lbs grain 1lb liquid extract = 1.2 lbs of grain This is assuming decent conversion etc..and all the other variables involved in mashing but it should get you in the ballpark. Another method is to go online to the recipator or beertools and use their calculator to see if your gravity, srm, etc.. come out right when you plug the amounts in. http://hbd.org/recipator/ Hope this helps. Pete aka madman on Skotrats PS: Haven't been there for a while, can't stay up late. How are things? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:50:57 -0400 From: Rob Hanson and Kate Keplinger <katerob at erols.com> Subject: RE: LONG soak in B-brite Bob Poirier (the Pear Tree? the Pear Farmer? Cool name!) Asked about soaking bottles in B-Brite for a long time. I recently had the same thing happen to one of my carboys in a similar concentration solution of B-Brite, soaked 24 hours or so. You know, gross white film on the inside of the glass, etc. Paul Kensler suggested half a gallon of white vinegar (cheap!) to five gallons water and a 30 minute to 1 hour soak. It did the trick. It was one of those forehead slapping moments because I realized that the reason I have a gallon of white vinegar around is as a substitute for a descaling agent in my coffee machine... Talk about not putting two and two together. Now I don't pretend to understand acids, bases(?), etc., but I think that's the principle that's at work. (I'm sure there are people on the digest that will explain *exactly* how it works) Anyway, I didn't have to think about it too hard, because it worked the first time. Hope this helps. - --Rob Hanson the Closet Brewery 'post tenebras lux' Washington, DC - ----------------------- "Sometimes when I reflect back on all the beer I drink I feel ashamed. Then I look into the glass and think about the workers in the brewery and all of their hopes and dreams. If I didn't drink this beer, they might be out of work and their dreams would be shattered. Then I say to myself, "It is better that I drink this beer and let their dreams come true than be selfish and worry about my liver." - --Unattributed Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 07:22:22 -0400 (EDT) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: Half-Wit Rye It was real hot up here in Northern NY state yesterday afternoon...too hot to cut the lawn, but NOT to hot to brew! I've got several vials of Whitlabs that are dated "best before 3-11-01" so I decided to use up a couple of them with an experimental batch. The two that I chose to combine...due to their preferred temperatures and style were WLP300/ Hefe and WLP400/ Wit. Hence the name, Hefe-Wit, which I changed to Half-Wit. Here is the recipe: 8lb Canadian 6 row (I was told by Thomas Fawcett that this had sufficient glucanase to cut the glucans in): 4 lb Rye (perhaps too much...but we shall see) I also added 1 lb wheat and for the heck of it, 1 lb Brown Rice Flakes I received a long-distance phone call..wasn't watching the temp well... .so I missed the 104F rest for the beta glucanase...and had to settle for the first rest at 128F for 30 min. I then boosted to 148F for 30, then 158 for 30, then mashout at 169F. First runnings were 1.090 boil gravity was 1.052 (~7 gallons of sparge water, and collected about 7 gallons of wort) boil was for 90 minutes after first 30 I added 1 oz Ultra (from M.Sedam)`3.4%, then another oz after 30 more... put some Corriander (crushed) in the boil. OG was 1.056 pitched the hefe, and wit vials... We shall see what results! ...Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 08:36:21 -0400 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Re: Tygon tubing source? Gary Smith inquired about an "inexpensive" source for Tygon tubing: Gary, I've got bad news, there ain't any. Try US Plastics (www.usplastic.com). I've ordered several things from there and they seem to be pretty reasonable, unfortunately, Tygon is a registered trademark of Norton Company and they are very proud of it. There is some Tygon tubing at US Plastics that specifically says it is for peristaltic pumps, the 3/4" OD x 1/2" ID runs about $3.58/ft and the 5/8" OD x 3/8" ID is about $2.90. On another note, US Plastics has some great quick disconnects made from FDA approved Delrin. They come as large as 3/8" ID and are just over $2.00 a pair. I used them throughout my brewery and they work really well. If anyone wants further details, e-mail me. BTW, not affiliated with US Plastics (yada). Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 09:45:17 -0400 From: Len Safhay <cloozoe at optonline.net> Subject: Re: Barley Crusher Malt Mill Another unsolicited testimonial to the Barley Crusher. I've been totally satisfied with mine. Price was right; construction quality is excellent; communication and shipping prompt. Easy to use and I'm getting great efficiencies. NAYY. Len Safhay "Be Yourself" is the worst advice you can give to some people. Mark Twain Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 09:58:58 -0500 From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com> Subject: protecting hops Ok somebody beat me to the joke. I'm not sure what rose beetles are but if they're japanese beetles you can buy traps for them so you don't have to spray what goes into your beer. I don't grow hops but I do have a garden. I try to keep it as organic as I can. One thing I've found is that bugs WILL find a way to eat. I've got a hugh population of japanese beetles that have in the past cleaned out my potatos and beans. However since I hit a lazy spell a couple years ago and let the weeds get ahead of me they leave my plants alone. For the most part they're eating lambs quarters and a grass I don't know the name of. Long and short, leave some weeds for the bad guys to eat. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:00:59 -0500 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Rice in CAP/ CACA Jeff Renner writes: "Rice gives (IMO) a more neutral flavor than corn. Medium or short grain rice is apparently better than long grain. Grind it (a roller mill is problematic - a Corona works great) to get pieces about 1 mm in size." What about using instant (5 minute) rice? How is this rice processed? It seems to me that it is not as hard and could be more easily be run through a roller mill. Would it need to be cooked as long or at all? Someone out there must have used it before. Personally I like flaked corn the best. No need to cook, tastes better. Doug Hurst Chicago, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:07:13 -0400 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: Hops growing in South Steven <stevensl at mindspring.net> and Tom <karnowsk at esper.com> ask about growing hops in the south, >Does anyone have any experience growing hops in the deep south >(central/northern Alabama/Georgia). I've got parents into gardening >and a >nice plot of space. >I'm trying to grow hops, in East Tennessee of all places. >While I don't expect any real yield, not now nor ever, the >things are growing pretty well. ...snip... >Should I train these up the same cord, or should I prune them out as well? >As a very novice gardener, can anyone tell me why you >need to prune them at all? I think Hops is related to Kudzu.. Water them well and you will be fine. >From Tomato growing, I have learned that these shoots are "Suckers" and should be pinched off. On the other hand, my Cascades are 6" from the roof of the second level. I'm not sure if I should nip it when it tops the roof and force it to put enerby in the shoots or not. So, I'm going to train one vine and trim the other to see how they compare. Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 12:06:20 -0400 From: Chris Hatton <Chatton at aca.com> Subject: no need to shake my hand, no (I'm in the "spank it hard" category) Did I even need to point this one out? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 12:48:21 +0500 From: "Jim Suchy" <grayling at provide.net> Subject: Michigan State Fair Homebrew Competition Announcement Hello Brewers - The Michigan State Fair Homebrew Competition is again upon us. Any Michigan made, non-commercial, home produced beer is eligible for entry. Mead and cider may not be entered. Enter as many beers as you like, but you are limited to one entry per BJCP style subcategory (e.g., BJCP Style 4A, Ordinary Bitter). Each entry must consist of two bottles of at least ten ounces, which have no labels or identifying marks. The entry fee is $12.00 for up to three entries and $3.00 for each additional entry. Entries are due between July 16th and July 30th. First round judging will be held on August 5th. Best of Show judging will be held on August 25th at the State Fair. This is a BJCP and AHA sanctioned competition. Forms and more information can be found on our website:http://hbd.org/michigan Any questions can be directed to Jim Suchy, Competition Director mistatefair at hotmail.com Jason Henning, Judge Director jason at thehennings.com Pat Babcock, Assistant Judge Director and Webmaster pbabcock at hbd.org Wendy Suchy, Registrar wrmaciak at hotmail.com Cheers! Jim http://www.provide.net Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 10:08:13 -0700 From: Dave Wills <dave at freshops.com> Subject: Re:growing hops and trimming vines If it is the hops first year, let all of the vines grow. Once the hop gets established it will send up more and more vines as the underground rhizomes grow out from the crown. Commercial growers will generally run 2 strings to each hop and train 3 vines up each string. All other vines are removed so the hop can put all of its energy into those 6 vines. Pruning off spreading rhizomes in the early Spring to keep the hill about one foot square will help prevent excessive vines. Commercial growers also cut off any vines that have come up prior to early April. This is done to prevent early flowering and force all the flowers to ripen at the same time for harvest in Late August to mid-September. - -- Dave Wills Freshops purveyor of fine hops Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 11:06:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Chad Clancy <chadclancy at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Calories in beer Peter Ensminger wrote: > >In HBD 3670 ( > >http://www.hbd.org/hbd/archive/3670.html#3670-2 ), John > >Thompson asked about calories in beer. You need > look no > >further than the HBD itself! See my web page: > >http://hbd.org/ensmingr/ . > > > >Cheerio! > >Peter A. Ensminger > >Syracuse, NY > >Life Under the Sun: http://www.yale.edu/yup/lifesun Using the formulae listed on Peter Ensminger's website, I solved for the caloric content of 12 ounces of beer based solely on the OG and FG. In using these formula, the OG and FG should be in the form 1.### (i.e, 1.070) Calories (in 12 oz.) = -71*(10513920*FG^3-34238464*FG^2+FG*(2320455*OG^2- 7556536*OG+40323125)-11356250*OG)/312500 I compared the results posted by Jeff Renner (whose source was Marc de Jonge and an EBC formula) and found that the tabularized numbers differed anywhere from 13 to 29 percent from the above formula. The number's in the table provided by Jeff were consistently lower. Hmmmm... maybe that's where the extra inch around my waist came from. Chad Clancy Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 20:55:37 +0200 From: "Anders Lundquist" <alun at nada.kth.se> Subject: Heating without Scorching (was: Re: Jeff's CAP/Cream Ale recipes) The centerpiece of the homebrewing universe wrote: > I have found that > a wire trivet between the electric element of my stove and the pot > helps a great deal. And many others have made similar comments in the past. Could someone please explain the theory behind this? Or even just some handwaving arguments. It seems to me that all the trivet would achieve would be to reduce the heat conduction efficiency between the electric element and the pot, and I fail to see the advantage of that. Well yes, it would reduce the scorching, but so would reducing the power in the first place. OK, so I haven't actually tried it, so I guess I'm just showing my librarian tendencies, but I kind of like to have some indication that something makes sense before trying. (Not that I have scorching problems, so the question is somewhat academic anyway.) Anders (E 18:1:20 N 59:21:44 regular, whatever that is Rennerian) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 15:18:14 -0700 From: "B.R. Rolya" <br at triagemusic.com> Subject: Re: Montreal Ken wrote: >I'm going to Montreal in July to see my beloved Red Sox and would like >to drink some good beer while I'm there. Any recommendations for >breweries or brewpubs. Do Molson or Labatts do anything special? My 2 favorite brewpubs in Montreal are Dieu du Ciel (29 Laurier west, a block from St. Laurent) and l'Amere a Boire (2049 St. Denis, near Sherbrooke). The brewer at Dieu du Ciel, Jean-Francois, creates some interesting beers and is very friendly with homebrewers. L'Amere a Boire has a very good Czech-style lager, among other things. Cheval Blanc (809 Ontario est, near St. Denis) usually has something unique on tap and is located in a great old bar with lots of formica and chrome. While I generally don't enjoy fruit in my beer (unless it's a lambic), their fruit beers are tart and tasty. Unibroue's beers are always worth checking out and they've got some styles that don't make it into the US. Their brewery is located just outside of Montreal, in Chambly, and is open for tours. They also have a restaurant featuring "cuisine a la biere". Le Futenbulle (273 Bernard west, near Parc) is a decent beer bar with local Quebec beers as well as imports, including some Belgians that don't make it into the US (or at least not into New York). Don't know what they serve at the ball park, but Boreale, St. Ambroise/McAuslan, and Belle Gueule are 3 decent alternatives to Molson and Labatt's. If you're looking to bring beers home, the cheese store (sorry I don't know its name but it's on the lower level, near all the plants) at the Atwater market has the best selection of local beers (plus some amazing raw-milk cheese). - BR Rolya Malted Barley Appreciation Society NYC http://hbd.org/mbas/ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 17:53:43 -0400 From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter at smgfoodlb.com> Subject: Re: pruning hops here in So. cal, the hops in my yard are up to the 15 - 18 foot range thinning out the plants result in much healthier plants and larger quantities of hops I trim back all side shoots below the 8 foot level as they normally do not produce any large quantities of hops also you will loose the bottom leaves don't worry - the plant just wants to make hops ! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 20:24:14 -0400 From: homebre973 at mindspring.com Subject: Ulm I will be going to Ulm Germany soon. Can anyone recommend beers to drink, sites to see, or beer houses to visit? Thanks Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 23:21:44 +0930 From: "Thomas D. Hamann" <tdhamann at senet.com.au> Subject: Ringwood Yeast (Wyeast 1187) Does anyone know the origin of this yeast and where it gets it's name from? In the Wyeast cattledog it says that it's of European origin, does it have anything to do with the Ringwood Brewery in Hampshire? Do their beers exhibit the characteristics that Wyeast claims this yeast is capable of? thanks folks, Thomas. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Jun 2001 16:30:13 -0600 From: "Jeffry D Luck" <Jeffry.D.Luck at aexp.com> Subject: Calories in a 12oz Will the real calorie count please stand up? We had three posts yesterday about calorie counts for a 12oz bottle. All different. Using the example given on the hbd web site, a change of gravity from 1.070 to 1.015 gives 230 calories. The table Jeff Renner provided shows 199 calories, and the local club's web calculator gives 257 calories. Any takers? -JL Salt Lake City, UT Having a wonderful wine. Wish you were beer. Oh, yea, the sites given were: http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew/tools/ac.htm http://hbd.org/ensmingr/ Return to table of contents
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