HOMEBREW Digest #3690 Mon 23 July 2001

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  But I thought Al Gore invented RIMS... (WayneM38)
  re: krauzening, secondaries, etc. ("Dr. Pivo")
  Diacetyl rest ("Richard Sieben")
  Removing Chlorine (mkboyer)
  water filters ("Joseph Marsh")
  Re: Water Filtration System ("RJ")
  Re: Cider ("Brian M Dotlich")
  Micronised wheat (David Edge)
  stuck fermentation? ("Steve Doig")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 01:26:06 EDT From: WayneM38 at aol.com Subject: But I thought Al Gore invented RIMS... << Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2001 10:37:51 -0400 From: "Alan Meeker" <ameeker at mail.jhmi.edu> Subject: RIMS inventor controversy David Sweeney recently posted the following: "In the spirit of Jethro Gump, I have obtained a direct line of communication with the inventor of the RIMS, Rodney Morris." Rodney Morris?? But I though Al Gore invented RIMS. >> I thought it was Ralph!!! /netahtml/srchnum.htm&r=1&f=G&l=50&s1='4,754,698'.WKU.&OS=PN/4,754,698&RS=PN/4 ,754,698 patent # 4,754,698 Wayne Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 15:04:23 +0200 From: "Dr. Pivo" <dp at pivo.w.se> Subject: re: krauzening, secondaries, etc. There is a bit of discussion about exactly "when" traditional "krauzening" takes place. As Mr. Hanghofer points out, it is added to an as completely fermented out primary as possible, to make up both the sugars for lagering AND both the ammount and metabolic state of the yeast that are going to undertake it. Nobody is going to tie up a lagering tank a second time. Where the confusion probably arises, is that many homebrewers (including myself) will krauzen a beer from the secondary, when there is no activity left ("finished" or in some sense "finished lagering", if you will). What one must remember, is that secondary fermentation with a blow off is basically a homebrewer's toy. It alleviates the need for measuring things, or being exactly certain where your finishing gravity will be. It was particularly useful in the birth of homebrewing when people were only bottleing beer, rather than putting them in units with safety valves, and probably saved a fair number of dark closets from being shrapnel decorated. If you are kegging beers, it is an entirely unnecessary step, and one can simply do as traditional lagering, and go straight from primary to keg (lagering tank). Commerical breweries should know exactly where the beer is intended to finish, and should document at what state the beer is in when they do things to it..... lazy buggers like myself may rack directly to kegs (if I'm prepared for that, at the right stage), and may just as well rack them to a secondary. The latter method means I don't have to worry about racking "too early" and getting a ton of yeast sludge that might autolyse, or "too late" and not having enough residual sugars....... In short, I can rack when I'm ready, rather than when the beer is. So while with "traditional krauzening", the brewery would never have access to a flat, finished beer.... for a home brewer, I've found (and I'm sure others as well) "krauzening" an excellent alternative to either: 1) artificially carbonating, or 2) priming, something that comes out of a secondary. I would like to point out that there is in fact one situation where "krauzening" has truly been done to beer that ihas "finished lagering", and that is when kegging from the lagering tanks. In these old hand pounded bungs, a keg could well be sitting on its side for 45 minutes completely open to air, before someone came by with their rubber mallet. and smacked the wooden bung into place. So "krauzening" was used here simply as "oxidation protection". In this situation "3 percemt" is the ammount I've seen used. I have previously posted that "spurmentin" with this, has shown me that "krauzening up" has shown me to be an excellent protection against "transport damage". I might also add that I suggested that his 12P beer would probably be about 9P at high krauzen. This comes from me having racked off krauzen enough times from beer started at 1048, and measuring it as I dumped it to the awaiting keg, and getting readings of 1036, 1037, 1036, etc. that I don't bother measuring anymore, but simply trust my judgement in knowing when it looks "like it usually does". Dr. Pivo Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 08:38:49 -0500 From: "Richard Sieben" <sier1 at email.msn.com> Subject: Diacetyl rest Ant Hayes is chasing the same problem I was before, I brought it to the Siebel folks when I was there and here is what they have told me to do to fix the beer I had and on a go forward basis....and it works. For the beer with diacetyl in it already, (in a keg) add a quart of unfermented wort with yeast pitched in it so it is active before pitching. The fresh yeast will eat up the diacetyl, a simple beer repair but it is still not as good as preventing excessive diacetyl in the first place. To do that... The primary fermentation is is carried out at 60F for ales and 50F for lagers, (this also assumes a proper yeast pitching rate which also goes a long way to make the difference between a beer that tastes like homebrew and one that tastes pro brewed.) When the gravity is 1/2 of the original gravity (so if you start at 1044 rack at 1022) rack to secondary and raise the temperature to 65F for 3 days. Then start chilling the beer down at 5 F degrees per day to get to your aging temp, which is 33 degrees for a lager. This process does a couple of things for you. 1) keeps the pH of the beer as low as you can keep it which results in a crisper tasting beer. and 2) creates the diacetyl while there is still yeast present to eat it up. I was taught of and have observed, a pH bounce up after the krausen falls. By racking before the krausen falls totally, you are removing the oldest yeast that will soon begin to autolyze and it raises the pH surprisingly fast once that happens. By racking at 1/2 the OG, there is still ample yeast in suspension to eat diacetyl and the pH is as low as it's going to go. I have noticed that you can come out of primary without a hint of diacetyl, yet after aging in the secondary....it's there. The reason for this is simple, during primary, the yeast eats the diacetyl as fast as it is made. What also exists in the beer is the diacetyl precursor compounds that will spontaneously form diacetyl. We do a diacetyl rest to CAUSE the diacetyl to form quickly (heat speads the process) before the yeast settles out of suspension. If you do a diacetyl rest without enough yeast in suspension, you will just get a lot of diacetyl in your final beer. Which is ok if you like your beer buttered I guess. Rich Sieben Island Lake, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 08:48:27 -0500 From: mkboyer at ev1.net Subject: Removing Chlorine > Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2001 01:08:48 -0400 > From: "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> > Subject: Water Filtration System > > Dear Friends, > > After a lot of tinkering and 'sperimenting, I have ascertained that > I have a problem with the local water supply. It seems they pump a LOT of > chlorine into the (rather hard) water. Stands and boils don't seem to be > cutting it with regards to removal of this vile taint. Can anyone recommend > a commercially available filtration system that can help with this? > > Jeff Any active carbon filter will remove chlorine. You can pick one up at the hardware store, and most of the homebrew supply shops and online suppliers sell them. Kevin Boyer Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 09:30:36 -0500 From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com> Subject: water filters A friend of mine uses a standard whole house filter and a few fitting attached to a water hose. Mine is an inline ice maker water filter with a few fittings attached to a water hose. (I got the filters cheap) Both setups work mine cost around $15 his cost a bit more but uses replaceable filters.Mine has auto shut off quick connects. This aint rocket science. You can definitly go cheap is this. Good brewing, Joe PS. If boiling doesn't get rid of the clorine taste you've likely got chloroamines instead. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 10:55:10 -0400 From: "RJ" <wortsbrewing at cyberportal.net> Subject: Re: Water Filtration System "Greenly, Jeff" <greenlyj at rcbhsc.wvu.edu> wrote: Dear Friends, "...I have ascertained that I have a problem with the local water supply. It seems they pump a LOT of chlorine into the (rather hard) water. Stands and boils don't seem to be cutting it with regards to removal of this vile taint. Can anyone recommend a commercially available filtration system that can help with this?" Your best bet for chlorine removal in a carbon filter... A whole house type (less than $60) should solve the issue... Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 12:42:47 -0400 From: "Brian M Dotlich" <BMDotlich at cs.com> Subject: Re: Cider Bob Pelletier <rp at ihrsa.org> wrote: "Looking for resources on cider making. Preferably web sites." http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/andrew_lea/ This is a good website. I've had a few conversations with this guy and he knows his stuff. He has written articles for magazines on cider which are on the website. Also the "Art Of Cidermaking" book by Paul Currently (from Brewers Publications) is excellent This fall will be my third cider season and I've found that book to be the best recourse. Brian Dotlich Dayton OH Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 18:09:20 +0100 From: David Edge <badger at sett.u-net.com> Subject: Micronised wheat I'm trying to find out what what micronised wheat is. According to Brewlab (University of Sunderland, UK) it is finely milled wheat, while Ian Hornsey (in 'Brewing') says that it is similar to torrified wheat, but heated using infra-red. Can anyone throw any light? Thanks in anticipation. - -- David Edge Signalbox Brewery, Burton-on-Trent, UK Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2001 18:52:47 -0700 From: "Steve Doig" <steve.doig at asu.edu> Subject: stuck fermentation? Newbie panic happening here. I'm brewing my second batch ever, an IPA. (My first, a brown ale, was great, so I'm psyched.) For five days, it's been fermenting nicely, about 50 burps/min from the airlock. It started to slow down a bit yesterday, down to 20/min. Big head of kreusen, thick layer of sediment. So I decided to rack it to the second fermenter this morning; the recipe called for going to the secondary about this time, so I did. Ten hours later, there's no evidence of fermentation -- not a burp from the airlock. OG was 1.062 at 78 degrees; the specific gravity when I racked this morning was 1.015 at 70 degrees. So, my questions: - -- Is everything okay, and I should leave it in the secondary for another week as the recipe says? - -- Is everything okay, and I'm ready to bottle despite the recipe's advice to go another week? - -- Or am I a victim of "stuck fermentation", which I've seen referred to on this list occasionally? - -- And, if so, what do I do to jump-start it again? Also, I now see a few furry white patches floating on the surface of the wort. They don't look like the smooth yellowish blobs of yeast from the primary. I was careful about sanitizing everything, but is that some sort of wild crud growing? Thanks for your advice, Steve Doig - -- ************************************************************* Stephen K. Doig, Professor, Cronkite School of Journalism, Arizona State University, Box 871305, Tempe, AZ 85287-1305 V:480-965-0798 Fax:480-965-7041 mailto:steve.doig at asu.edu http://www.asu.edu/cronkite/faculty/doig/index.html "Reporting Census 2000" http://cronkite.pp.asu.edu/census ************************************************************* Return to table of contents
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