HOMEBREW Digest #3761 Mon 15 October 2001

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  Re: Using a Camp Chef Indoors (Thanks for the suggestions) ("Gary Smith")
  Stuck pumpkin gunk ("Abby, Davey, Ellen and Alan")
  Conditioning/aging questions (misaacs)
  BJCP Approves Commercial Competitions ("Houseman, David L")
  HBD Red Cross Match Fund Final Status (Pat Babcock)
  [0,0] Rennerian (Jeff Renner)
  re:Beta Testers Required (Walt Lewis)
  discolored immersion chiller ("Tom Williams")
  Amazing Beer Math ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Covering exposed wires on heater elements (Kevin McDonough)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 01:24:14 -0500 From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at interlync.com> Subject: Re: Using a Camp Chef Indoors (Thanks for the suggestions) Hi all, It's a tough decision as to what to do re: winter brewing. I've appreciated the off & on line replies to my original question about using my camp chef indoors during the winter. Some people seem to have had good luck with brewing indoors during the nasty time of year. Some of the responses were cautioning me against using gas indoors and some of the responses recommended I have great ventilation & with common sense precautions & observance, things would likely go well. There are 3 windows with vents in this basement and an exhaust fan for the rabbit's room. Since there are windows I can open for ventilation (& install a fan against to blow out) and there's a concern for CO build-up. I'm thinking a hybrid electric/propane setup might be the best way to go. This would allow me to use electricity and a far smaller amount of gas on the boilkettle which would still do the required job of rolling boil. As I mentioned in my first post, I do have a rims setup. This one generates 1,600 watts with 110V into a huge ultra-low- watt-density element which is in a special order stainless chamber from Moving Brews (What a great resource). The element is 22" long but is folded & U shaped. If one were to straighten the element into one single rod it would be over 80" long so even if there were no thermostat it wouldn't caramelize the sugars given there's a large magnetic pump in line. I have a peristaltic pump as well & high temp Noprene hose for my connections. I can disconnect at nearly every junction via quick disconnects so what I'm thinking is to re-route my output from the boil kettle back to the boil kettle via the rims chamber and rest the sparge arm on the bottom. I can turn the temp in the chamber up to full which should bring it to near boiling and then use the propane to tip it over to full boil. It will probably take a bit longer to brew but I think this will be a good answer. I will do this near a vent in the basement and hook up a large muffin fan to exhaust the moisture and air. I'll bring the CO monitor down to be positive all is well and I'll purchase two propane tanks to last the winter & bring them downstairs so there won't be any expansion problems by them warming up too fast were I to bring them in from the freezing outdoors. I'm almost thinking it would be a good idea cost wise (Heat source expense) to convert the whole thing to electricity but I really like brewing outside & the actual cost of the two extra elements, fixtures & heliarcing to the boil kettle will add up pretty fast. Not to mention the cost of an electrician to come over and rewire the circuit. I'll give a try to the hybrid idea when I bring the rims beast in from the garage to the basement. I'll check first to see how hot I can get the water using rims alone & I'll go from there (understanding that sugar water will take more energy to heat than straight water). Cheers, Gary Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 08:51:08 -0300 From: "Abby, Davey, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca> Subject: Stuck pumpkin gunk I make a Ringwood Honey Pumpkin Porter on an extract base and have a suggestion. It might not be the pumpkin so much as the puree. I grow my own pumpkins, roast them and scoop the roasty mash into freezer bags for later use. I do not puree the gunk so it is very fiberous. When I brew, I use a pound or two and when I am rinsing the grain/pumpkin mini-mash into the boil it flows fine. Best of all for the porter the roasting brings out some caramelly flavours that really make it work nicely with the good ol' tang o' the Ringwood yeast. Probably also a fraction of the price of canned stuff even if you buy the pumpkin. Alan McLeod Brewin' in PEI, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 08:15:44 -0400 From: misaacs <misaacs at bigfoot.com> Subject: Conditioning/aging questions Hello all, I brewed a belgian ale a month ago and the ferment just finished. Similar Belgian recipes I have studied suggested aging the beer. I need some advice on my next step. A little about the recipe, fermented a little warmer and longer than I anticipated: St. Somewhere Abbey Strong Belgian Ale, Dubbel Batch (GAL): 10.00 Actual OG: 1.060 Actual FG: 1.009 Pitched: WYeast 1388 Belgian Strong Ale Primary: 6 days at 68 degrees F Secondary: 21 days at 65 degrees F I would finish any other ale by tossing the kegs in the fridge and crash cooling for 2 days, transfer to clean serving kegs and force carbonate, serving two days later. Would this beer benifit from aging a bit? If so, for how long, at cellar or serving temps, before or after carbonation? Thanks in advance, Mike in CT - -- misaacs at bigfoot.com Son of a Son of a Aler Nothing scares me like, "Vampires, Mummies and the Holy Klosh" Jolly Mon Brewery Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 10:11:43 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: BJCP Approves Commercial Competitions For those BJCP Judges who may not receive JudgeNet: From: Bill Slack Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2001 14:41:33 -0400 Subject: BJCP judges at commercial competitions The Board of Directors has approved the awarding of experience points to BJCP judges who judge in commercially sponsored beer competitions provided that the competition is registered with the BJCP in the usual manner, that the contest is fair (blind tasting) and that the category definitions and evaluation procedures are reasonably consistent with the BJCP rules. This way we can allow the commercial organizers some leeway in organizing their events while still rewarding BJCP judges for exercising their basic judging skills. We feel that this increased contact between the BJCP and the commercial brewing community will be beneficial to both. If you know of a commercial beer competition that could use some BJCP expertise in their event please refer them to our website http://www.bjcp.org for info/instructions on registering their competition with us. Cheers. Bill Slack President and Representative for the Northeast Region Board of Directors Beer Judge Certification Program, Inc. David Houseman Chester Springs, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 14:24:40 -0400 (EDT) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: HBD Red Cross Match Fund Final Status Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Wow! Took a trip out to the PO Box before submitting our donation to the Red Cross and, lo and behold: another $220.00! That makes for a total of $1320.00 donated through the Ford Motor Company Employee Matching Gift Program (I donated $100.00 through it 9/13 as well as the $1220.00 we're sending in today). That's $2640.00 added to the Red Cross Disaster Relief Fund through our fund raising effort. Kim summed it up best: "The HBD is amazing. Whenever there's a need, they come through." She is, of course, also referring to the many, many times you've come quickly to the need of the HBD itself, and how quickly, each time we've been stricken, funds spent to rebuild our systems were replaced, then doubled and tripled (trippel'ed?). You folks _ARE_ amazing. Thank you. I'm proud - truly proud - to serve as your janitor. PS: The donors named on the HBD Red Cross Donation Ledger are entitled to dedicate a memorial plaque on the HBD memorial page (http://hbd.org/memorial.html). Please email me with your dedication text and, if applicable, URL. Thanks again. You are all the greatest. -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 13 Oct 2001 15:24:45 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: [0,0] Rennerian It's slow these days, so I will take the liberty of being silly and off topic. On Friday, Brian Levetzow (Delta) <levetzowbt at home.com> wrote: >Rennerian coord = [428.204618,118.63256183] >WGS84 Ellipsoidal distance / true bearing >~ >For this calculation, the Center of the Homebrewing Universe >[0,0] was fixed at the intersection of Huron River Dr. and Zeeb Rd. >(is that close, Jeff?) Then today, he wrote: >On my last post (first with Rennerian coords, Henning method), I thought >I got smart, and used an estimated [0,0] origin somewhere in Jeff's >neighborhood. Well duh... there's this thing called the HBD arvhive, >and I found his [0,0] GPS coords in #3515. > >This threw my calcs off by 1.56 miles and 11' 4.2" in bearing. I knew I >felt lost for a day or so.... now I know why! ( B^) and this time he included the even more useable information: >Laurel, MD Glad to see you've tightened up your Rennerian coordinates. Your original guess of Huron River Drive and Zeeb is 2.07 miles north (bearing 342^) of me. Still, a pretty good guess from 426.644102 miles away. Did you use some web site for your calculations? In HBD 3515 last December, which you referred to, I wrote: >0,0 Rennerian is: > >N 42^17'46.9" >W 83^49'34.5" > >This is subject to minor revisions as our two story house with snow >on the roof makes it difficult to get a strong signal inside at the >computer desk, and it's too cold and snowy to go out. Well, it isn't cold or snowy here now, so here are my refined coordinates: 0,0 Rennerian is now: N 42^17'47.0" W 83^49'34.2" Now you'll have to revise your Rennerian coordinates again! The good result from all this silliness is that in today's HBD, 7 out of 10 posters gave their locations (although Drew Avis didn't tell us where Merrickville is [eastern Ontario?]), and an 8th, Curt Speaker, tells us he's at Penn State University, so we can figure he's somewhere near Unhappy Valley, PA (go Blue!). Now if only we can get Janitor Babcock to get with the program. (For those not in the know, he's in Canton, Michigan.) So here you are, Patrick, your coordinates are: [18.1, 092] Rennerian. Just "Canton, MI" works for me. Too bad you weren't at [0,0] Rennerian last night for the AABG meeting. You missed being interviewed by the reporter from the local newspaper (she stayed for the whole meeting and sampled just about every beer - tough job!). (There - I mentioned beer to make it an on-topic post). Jeff Official HBD Geography Enforcer - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 07:52:06 -0400 From: Walt Lewis <wlewis at alliedlogistics.com> Subject: re:Beta Testers Required I've been using StrangeBrew for about a year now and find it to be ther perfect blend of thorough and simple. I'd Love to pitch in Drew, count me in. Walt Lewis walt_lnospam at hotmail.com REmove nospam to reply Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 10:22:30 -0400 From: "Tom Williams" <williams2353 at hotmail.com> Subject: discolored immersion chiller Tidmarsh Major has trouble with his immersion chiller: "Recently I've noticed some black discoloration on my copper immersion chiller. The discoloration is uneven and spotty <snip> I noticed verdegris forming on parts of the coils after soaking in PBW. <snip> I soak the kettle & chiller in a hot PBW solution (1/2 c. to 9 gal) for up to an hour before draining and cleaning." Perhaps one of the HBD metallurgists could comment on the process forming these deposits on Tidmarsh's copper chiller. I don't know what PBW is (iodine? bleach?), but it sounds like the source of the corrosion deposits. My contribution to the discussion is this: Why do you do this to your immersion chiller? One of the benefits of an immersion chiller over a counterflow chiller is that this type of sanitizing is not necessary. I suggest that you simply rinse the chiller thoroughly after brewing, removing any solid particles stuck to it, and then on the next brew day, boil it in the wort kettle for a few minutes prior to starting the cooling water flow. I suspect that boiling is more effective than the chemical sanitizers anyway. Tom Williams Dunwoody, Georgia Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 17:12:50 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Amazing Beer Math BEER MATHEMATICS (Don't cheat, work it through) This is pretty neat how it works out. This is amazing beer math!!!!!!! DON'T CHEAT BY SCROLLING DOWN FIRST! It only takes about a minute....... Work this out as you read. Be sure you don't read the bottom until you've worked it out! This is not one of those waste of time things, it's fun (& it's about beer). 1. First of all, pick the number of times a week that you would like to have a beer (try for more than once but less than 10, girls can substitute their favorite drink) 2. Multiply this number by 2 (Just to be bold) 3. Add 5. (for Friday Night) 4. Multiply it by 50. I'll wait while you get the calculator................ 5. If you have already had your birthday this year add 1751.... If you haven't, add 1750 .......... 6. Now subtract the four digit year that you were born. (if you remember) You should have a three digit number Now here's the kicker!!!!!!!!!!! Are you Ready??????????????? The first digit of this was your original number! (i.e., how many times you want to have a beer each week). The next two numbers are your age. IMPRESSIVE ISN'T IT? THIS IS THE ONLY YEAR (2001) IT WILL EVER WORK, SO SPREAD IT AROUND AND AMAZE YOUR FRIENDS Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2001 18:16:17 -0400 From: Kevin McDonough <kmcdonou at nmu.edu> Subject: Covering exposed wires on heater elements I have just installed two hot water heater elements in my HLT and boiling kettle. I am trying to find an effective way of covering the exposed element wires. I could always cover them with electrical tape, but I would like better water resistance when I clean the kegs. Any suggestions? Return to table of contents
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