HOMEBREW Digest #3763 Wed 17 October 2001

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  re: When to stop sparging/undermodified malts ("Stephen Alexander")
  Pumpkin ("Abby, Davey, Ellen and Alan")
  Re: When to stop sparging ("RJ")
  hops suppliers ("Scott Basil")
  Post Question ("Berggren, Stefan")
  re: discolored immersion chiller (Matthew Kettler)
  Re: When to stop sparging (Jeff Renner)
  Not traveling with CO2 (Phil Wilcox)
  travel kegging (joseph540)
  homebrew at the legislature (joseph540)
  remembering hop additions ("Frank Tutzauer")
  Re: When to stop sparging ("Pete Calinski")
  Re: When to stop sparging (DHinrichs)
  Re: when to stop sparging ("Kurt Schweter")
  Yeast Starters and Stuck Fermentation (jeff storm)
  Re:  Propane Indoors (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Storing Beer in 5gal kegs ("Berggren, Stefan")
  Kegging and Re-using Milk Jugs (Stephen Johnson)
  Re: When to stop sparging (Ed Jones)
  Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day ("Gary Glass")
  exposed wires ("marc_hawley")
  Re:Covering exposed wires on heater elements ("Dave & Joan King")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 05:56:34 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at att.net> Subject: re: When to stop sparging/undermodified malts Danny Breidenbach > So what is the practical method to know when you've hit 1.010 Forget the calculator - sparge till the hot runnings drop under 1.002SG, then it's time to stop. . Taste the runnings around this level and you'll start to get a picture of how the wort flavor shifts from very sweet to sweet & tea-like. It's no crime to stop the sparge earlier and it does impact flavor positively. === Kevin Crouch writes a lot that I agree with about undermodified malts, but the underpinnings of his post are very weak. German malts are generally not undermodified. Look up the SNR% or Kolbach for Durst, Weissheimer and DWC (well continental) and Weyermann pils malts and you see figures from 40 to 45 !! Well modified - and perhaps overmodified. The munich malts that I can get data sheets on are more variable w/ generally higher protein levels, but by extract or Kolbach measures these are often well modified too. Weisshiemer gives a range of 40 to 48 (!!)Kolbach for it's vienna and munich malts - shockingly high. Also German malts are not generally kilned at a 50% acrospire length, but to 2/3rd to 3/4 length. See Kunze for details. The other confusion introduced is the suggestion the malting creates proteins which are progressively more haze inducing. During malting the proportions of various protein fractions shifts as the storage prots are degraded to make new prots for the new cells. There is no significant change in the total amount of protein(+peptides + amino acids) in the barley/malt except for the culm loss. The amount of soluble protein increases (as the hordein fraction decreases) - perhaps that is what Kevin meant. Raw grain is, as we all know, haze positive. As the malting process proceeds to the well modified stage the haze potential of the malt generally decreases since the average size of the soluble proteins decreases by degradation processes. For truly undermodified malts a 50C rest is needed to finish the protein degradation that the maltster did not complete so to a void haze. If you perform this 45C-50C rest on a well modified malt (like Durst or Weissheimer pils) you'll quickly degrade the proteins so much that you'll lose haze and head and body. Kunze and Narziss both mention the careful avoidance of this 45-50C range and Kunze suggests that the 50c rest for traditional double decoction be changed to avoid this rest. Budvar malt and custom maltings performed for specific breweries may well be undermodified, but you've never seen any on your average HB shop bins, and the typical German brewery doesn't use them either. Yes, the jury is still out on decoction's flavor contribution, but it's not difficult to present yourself with some pretty solid evidence. Give it an honest try with a blind tasting and I think you'll see that decocting well modified malts makes at most a small contribution. If you don't trust amateur opinions then look to the literature for Narziss' and Kunze's and Lewis' comments. - -- -- Re boiling decoctions and tannins. Malt contains no tannins, just tannoids, and the malt itself contains only simpler polyphenolic tannoids. Once these tannoids hit the mash they are acted upon by phenol-oxidase and polymerase enzymes (and oxygen) that creates the larger polyphenolics which have a stronger coarsely bitter flavor and are capable of causing haze. Yes - decoction extracts more of these tannoids, but also causes break (protein+tannoid complexes) to form in the decoction kettle reducing the tannoid levels. Lager beers are also subjected to long boils and extended lagering periods - both of which reduce tannoid levels further. Simple monophenolic compounds have a positive flavor impact to a certain level and then detract. Decoction's flavor activity is probably partly due to the extraction of these simple phenolics which more effectively remain in the beer. The decoction darkening is from phenolic oxidation, caramelization and other browning reactions. The amount of maillard compounds (most responsible for malt flavor) formed in this way is small compared to the amounts formed in kilns. The reason is that the temps are suboptimally low, the pH suboptimally low, the reactants more dilute and the time too short for much maillard formation. If you want maillard compounds, caramel or wort oxidation - there are simpler ways than decoction to get it. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 07:22:11 -0300 From: "Abby, Davey, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca> Subject: Pumpkin Marc wrote: "I was planning to make a pumpkin porter (no spices...please!), but wanted to know if the amount of pumpkin I'm using is better for a 5 gallon or 10 gallon batch. I'm going to throw it in the mash of my all-grain recipe. Thoughts are appreciated." I'd say that's a ten gallon lump o' pump'. I have made five gallon batches of a one pound pumpkin porter and a two but I would think a further doubling would be over the top. But maybe you want to go there? Alan McLeod PEI, Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:40:40 -0400 From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net> Subject: Re: When to stop sparging Danny in West Lafayette, Indiana<dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> wrote: "So what is the practical method to know when you've hit 1.010 ... since the outflow is warm to hot, and flowing, etc. all while you're trying to float a hydrometer and do the calculations, whatever they are, etc. When I don't even know that I'll have a free hand!! Do I relax and ask my wife to measure the gravity of a sample? And how does one correct for the temp of the outflow?" Danny, Take your sample and measure the gravity, then take the temperature and use the chart below (based on a hydrometer calibrated to 60F): 60F = 1.010 70F = 1.011 80F = 1.012 85F = 1.013* 90F = 1.014 95F = 1.015 100 = 1.016 105 = 1.017 110 = 1.018 115 = 1.019 120 = 1.020 123 = 1.021* 125 = 1.022 130 = 1.023 135 = 1.024 138 = 1.025* 140 = 1.026 143 = 1.027* 146 = 1.028* 149 = 1.029* Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 15 Oct 2001 13:21:52 -0500 From: "Scott Basil" <sbasil at glasgow-ky.com> Subject: hops suppliers I remember a few weeks ago that somebody was looking for a supplier of live hops plants and shoots. I had forgotten a grower in california who specializes in plants with shamanistic and medicinal uses. His address is www.greenstranger.com and you have to look everything up by it's scientific name (humulus lupulus). I have only made a few purchases from this guy, but he will guarantee his plants and he will do his best to answer your growing questions. His catalog includes early and late blooming cluster, fuggles, hallertauer, hersbrucker, perle, saaz, tettnanger, brewers gold, nugget, cascade, bullion, chinook, galeena, golden, liberty, mount hood, and willamette. It also gives a brief description on most varieties on how that particular hybrid or mutant came into being. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 08:38:32 -0500 From: "Berggren, Stefan" <stefan_berggren at trekbike.com> Subject: Post Question HBD, I have started a batch of Cyser that has been sitting for two weeks now and I plan on transferring to a secondary. What is the time limit that I should let the Cyser sit in the secondary. It was made with 4 gallons of fresh Cider and 4 lbs of honey and I used a Whitelabs Cider yeast that was amazing ( I would recommend to anyone, due to the activity and speed of firing). The primary ferment was amazing and vigorous, like a snow storm. I also plan on bottling and would like suggestions on what level of sugar/malt to prime 4 gallons with. Any help or comments on Cysers would be great..... Stefan Berggren stefan_berggren at trekbike.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:15:30 -0400 From: Matthew Kettler <mkettler at home.com> Subject: re: discolored immersion chiller >Tom Williams said: >Perhaps one of the HBD metallurgists could comment on the process forming these >deposits on Tidmarsh's copper chiller. I don't know what PBW is >(iodine? bleach?), but it sounds like the source of the corrosion deposits. Well, I'm no metallurgist, but I tend to agree. I use PBW myself for cleaning my kettle and fermenters out. PBW is a mixture of various percarbonate compounds (according to the warnings on the label) and other things. Copper is a somewhat reactive metal and tends to want to corrode. Among various things, Copper tends to turn to cupric oxide (which is black) in the presence of oxygen. Sulfur compounds will turn it blue-green. I can only guess that one or more of the compounds in PBW yields oxygen ions into the solution to try to react with proteins, and that this is causing cupric oxide to form on the chiller. Though I use PWB on my kettle, my chiller receives a different treatment. I clean my chiller by boiling it in a solution of water and vinegar and then rinse off, similar to what Todd Bissel recommended. However since I heat mine I can get away with a much lower concentration, about 2 cups of vinegar in 4 gallons of water. Copper dissolves easily in the presence of acids, and the weakly acidic vinegar solution takes a very thin layer of copper off the surface, leaving fresh, bright copper behind. As soon as it turns clean, it's time to take it out (This process would take a long time (months perhaps) to dissolve off any noticeable percentage of the copper pipe, but why leave it in longer than needed). Cheers and good luck. Matthew Kettler Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:45:05 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Re: When to stop sparging Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> in West Lafayette, Indiana asks: >So what is the practical method to know when you've hit 1.010 ... since >the outflow is warm to hot, and flowing, etc. all while you're trying to >float a hydrometer and do the calculations, whatever they are, etc. >When I don't even know that I'll have a free hand!! Here's what I did before I got my refractometer, which makes it even easier. I know from experience and color and taste of the runoff when I might be getting kind of close. At this point I would stop lautering for a moment and draw a sample and chill it. I used a disposable aluminum pie pan and put the sample in that, then floated the pan in a bowl of water with some ice in it. Swirling the wort in the pie pan helps speed cooling. In the winter, a nearby snowbank served. I could chill and measure a sample in less than five minutes. You could also use a temperature correction chart (HB books have them, and they are available at many sites online), but I never trusted them. They should work, though. Now, since I need only a drop for measurement, I take a spoonful from the runoff and chill it by holding the spoon back on an ice cube. Chills it in a few seconds. Then I transfer a drop to the refractometer. I think it's important to chill this way rather take a single drop and rely on the heat sink capacity of the refractometer. That might allow enough evaporation to occur to throw off the measurement. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 10:48:51 -0400 From: Phil Wilcox <pjwilcox at cmsenergy.com> Subject: Not traveling with CO2 Denis, Your natural carbonation method just won't work. There is not enough CO2 potential in the priming to push out an entire keg. It would indeed go flat. There are a couple of ways to get around this problem. Method 1. Buy a smaller tank. 5lb is common, but 3lb and 1lb do exist. Method 2. Fill an additional tank with CO2 and crank up the psi to about 60 lbs Build a jumper with co2 fittings for Gas on both ends. Use the CO2 keg to "Top off" the beer keg when needed. Don't leave them connected for more than a second or two unless you like foamy beer. You only want enough pressure to dispense beer with. Method 3. There is a commercial widget that has a CO2 cartridge like for bb guns, bike tire pumps and 5-litre mini kegs connected to a gas fitting. I'm sure it would take several to empty a full keg. Method 4. Buy a party pig. These are great you can counterpressure fill them, and use the CO2 tank pressure to burst the inner bag, and be ready to serve in 20 min time. 2.5 gal is a good weekend of drinking. I have 2. Multi flavors. and they fit on the top shelf of most fridges. Method 5: Counter-fill 3 liter plastic bottles. so long as they get used in a relatively quick fashion. These work great. Method 6: Tell you kids that you'll supply them with beer, if they buy their own regulator. After 4 years of method 2&4, my parents finally bought themselves one... Cheers! phil wilcox poison frog home brewer Jackson Michigan Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Oct 2001 07:56:01 -0700 From: joseph540 at elvis.com Subject: travel kegging Denis B. writes about kegging for travel. My own feeling is that this is what mini-kegs were made for. The kegs are cheap enough, especially if you don't need more than one or two. You may be able to find a tap system cheap from someone who is moving into corny kegging. Barring that, I would suggest simply siphoning some fermented beer into washed and sanitized plastic soda bottles (20 oz.ers are great, or go up to 2 liters), and priming with Primetabs. These are very easy to carry and no big deal to recycle afterwards. And they won't break on you! Joe, in Minneapolis - ------------------------------------------------- Get your free at Elvis e-mail account at Elvis.com! http://www.elvis.com Return to table of contents
Date: 16 Oct 2001 08:20:48 -0700 From: joseph540 at elvis.com Subject: homebrew at the legislature Dear all, I recently got a personal email message sent to me by a guy who felt he had been a bit short with me on a brewing-related web site. He hadn't actually, or if he had, I didn't take offense. But he explained that his patience and nerves had been frayed by his attempt to get his state legislature in Mississippi to legalize homebrewing. Seems that he had found a friend in the legislature willing to take this issue up, but he quickly ran into a brick wall of almost prohibition-era sentiment. He cited some really outrageous examples from the debate over this. I tried to get my friend to post an update about all of this here, but I think he's been too dispirited or too busy to do so. So I'll take it upon myself to post this for him. Not to kick up a political debate, but this seems like an issue worth bringing to a group interested in homebrewing (and presumably therefore the freedom to brew legally). I know that we had some discussion a while back about the laws in Utah, but what about people in other states? From what I can tell on the beertown.org web site, Alabama, Iowa, Kentucky and some other states may be in the same boat. I know AHA says that they can help, but they are restricted to helping coalesce grass-roots support. Anyone else in MS who would be willing to help rally some support? What have people in other states found successful or not suceessful in regard to lobbying the legislature? Best wishes, Joe (now looking out over the banks of the mighty Mississippi River, but many miles up from that homebrew-deprived state). - ------------------------------------------------- Get your free at Elvis e-mail account at Elvis.com! http://www.elvis.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:03:58 -0400 From: "Frank Tutzauer" <comfrank at acsu.buffalo.edu> Subject: remembering hop additions Todd in Imperial Beach shares his tip for remembering when to add hops, etc.: >I have an old wood cutting board that slides in and out from underneath my >apartment's countertop.....[Cover it with aluminum foil and write the >times for hop additions, etc. Details and cheesy ASCII art deleted]... > >What's the point? This is how I keep track of what I need to do... >It works for me, YMMV. I'd love to hear of other "home-grown" >quick-and-easy tips like this.... This reminds me of what I used to do when I was learning to cook Chinese. You must understand that in a typical Chinese dish, there are often very many ingredients that go into the wok at different times. And as it's usually very fast, you sometimes see recipes with ridiculous instructions like: "Add the ginger and stir-fry for 12 seconds. Add the bamboo shoots and stir-fry for an additional 45 seconds." etc. etc. As the timing was too quick for me to refer to the cook book, and as I was learning and couldn't separate ridiculous instructions from those that were more legitimate, I coped by premeasuring out the ingredients into small bowls or cups, lining them up on the counter in the order they went into the wok, and then using post-it notes next to the various ingredients with the times noted on them. Fire up the wok, grab the first ingredient, cook for indicated time, and proceed down the line. There's no reason this wouldn't work for homebrewing. Premeasure out your hops, Irish Moss, etc. Line each one up on the counter next to a post-it note with the time the addition goes in. Of course, homebrewers usually count down, not up, so your post-it notes read "Bittering hops, 60 min.", "Chiller, 15 minutes", "Irish Moss 10 minutes", etc. As you add an ingredient, toss the post-it note. You're done when you hit "Aroma hops, knockout"! --frank in Buffalo Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 12:24:17 -0400 From: "Pete Calinski" <pcalinski at iname.com> Subject: Re: When to stop sparging Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> asked, "When to stop sparging" Well, I stop at SG=1.000. If the wort was at 170F, then you could go down to SG=0.985 but I assume that even if the wort coming out of the lauter tun is up to 170F, by the time you get it into the sample tube and get a reading, it could be considerably cooler. Stopping at SG=1.000 would mean even if the sample cooled to around 118F, the SG at 60F would be above 1.010. Seems to work and is easy to remember. Hope this helps. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:47:08 -0500 From: DHinrichs at Quannon.com Subject: Re: When to stop sparging Since I mostly brew in the winter I keep a small aluminum sauce pan chilled in snow. I take a sample from the sparge, swirl it around in the cold aluminum pan it cools almost instantly to take a reading. The biggest problem I then have is the temp can also drop too low. I also taste this cooled sample. I also just use the finger test. Insert finger into sparge flow and taste, it will change from sweet wort to more astringent as the SG drops. >So what is the practical method to know when you've hit 1.010 ... since >the outflow is warm to hot, and flowing, etc. all while you're trying to >float a hydrometer and do the calculations, whatever they are, etc. >When I don't even know that I'll have a free hand!! > >Do I relax and ask my wife to measure the gravity of a sample? And how >does one correct for the temp of the outflow? >Thanks, >- --Danny in West Lafayette, Indiana Dave Hinrichs in mineetonka mn Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 13:51:05 -0400 From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter at smgfoodlb.com> Subject: Re: when to stop sparging does any body else just simply taste their run off -- when the flavor goes from sweet - to neutral it's time to stop before it starts to taste grainy my 2 cents Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 11:00:57 -0700 (PDT) From: jeff storm <stormyjeff at rocketmail.com> Subject: Yeast Starters and Stuck Fermentation I brewed a Brown Ale back on Sept 30th. The O.G. was 1.050. This was an all grain brew and I pitched WLP001-CA Ale yeast. The yeast has been used before and I believe it may be tired. My friend suggested I make a starter to get the gravity to drop more. As of yesterday the gravity was still at 1.026 after 14 days. I made a starter with some fresh WLP001 yeast-liquid. How long should the starter take? It has been bubbling in my fermentation freezer which is set at 71 degrees F. I see some of the yeast on the bottom. I was thinking that the yeast would multiply in the starter giving me more yeast. Any suggestions on the starter or the brown ale that is sitting at 1.026? I have 2 plastic fermenters with 5 1/2 gallons in each. Jeff Storm San Jose CA Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:48:51 -0400 (EDT) From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com> Subject: Re: Propane Indoors I am very puzzled here. While some people may do stupid things with propane indoors, and nearly kill themselves, there are a huge amount of homes out there that do not have natural gas, but heat and cook with propane. Yes, propane is dangerous, but only if you screw up. Otherwise the whole county I live in would not have any heat, or houses would be blowing up regularly. The burners in my brewery are propane fired, piped in at 15 psi from outside. When I am done brewing the valve on the inside of the brewery is turned off, and the valve supplying that pipe from the outside of the building is also turned off. The handles are removed and stored out of reach in the brewery. There is nothing unsafe about propane handled correctly. All connections should be tight and tested with soap solution. Or in the case of the piping in my walls, tested with air pressure at 30 psi for weeks without loss. Just my $0.02 for what it is worth. dion - -- Dion Hollenbeck Email: hollen at woodsprite.com Home Page: http://www.woodsprite.com Brewing Page: http://hbd.org/hollen Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 14:20:24 -0500 From: "Berggren, Stefan" <stefan_berggren at trekbike.com> Subject: Storing Beer in 5gal kegs Hello Fellow beer lovers, I was able to purchase some 5 gallon stainless steel cornelious kegs at a great price and now I need some guidance. I have used "syrup kegs" for awhile, but I purchased these in order to store beer and age the finished beer. What are some recommendations for storing the beer? Should I cask condition or purge the oxygen and keep a head of CO2 like a beer bottle? These kegs will be kept at 60-65deg until they are sacrificed to the fridge to be tapped. So if any one has any insight as how to store the beer until I am ready to tap from the kegs, please let me know. Stefan Berggren Trek Bicycle Corporation Engineering Test Lab/Standards Development 801 West Madison Waterloo, WI 53594 1.800.313.8735 ext 2203 920.478.9640 FAX stefan_berggren at trekbike.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:14:25 -0500 From: Stephen Johnson <Stephen.Johnson at vanderbilt.edu> Subject: Kegging and Re-using Milk Jugs "D Perry" <daperry75 at home.com>, from some undisclosed location (Dave, just a quick and friendly reminder to folks posting on the HBD: it is helpful for posters to put where they are geographically fixed, often in Rennerian coordinates, to allow others who reply the courtesy of having some additional bits of information that might help in answering your question) asks a couple of short questions. I'll take a shot at giving some answers: 1) Do you have to fill a five gallon keg right up, ie is half full ok? I do this pretty regularly, since I often bottle some to enter into competitions or force carbonate some in 2 L PET bottles to take to meetings. The potential issue is that in not filling the keg nearer to the top, you may be leaving the beer exposed to more oxygen when you close it up. Several things can be done to alleviate this potential problem. If you have access to a large supply of CO2, you can first fill your cornie keg with sanitizer, (I use 5-Star's Star San...no affiliation, just a very satisfied customer), seal the lid, then force all of the sanitizer out of the keg by hooking up your CO2 tank and dispensing all of it out of the keg as if you were serving your beer. Some people with multiple kegs do this by hooking up a special transfer line to a second cornie's "OUT" post and run the sanitizer into the second keg via the receiving keg's dip-tube. Then, when you open the oval keg lid, your keg is now full of CO2 gas, ready for an oxygen-free transfer to occur from your fermentation vessel. Another, less efficient method is to run a hose from your CO2 tank down into the bottom of your cleaned, sanitized, and empty keg and allow some CO2 into the keg (not sure how long, but I would guess 30-60 seconds at the most...someone correct me if I'm wrong), which will force some of the air out of the keg as it is displaced with CO2. The reason this is not as efficient is that CO2 and air will actually mix rather than keep separate layers as you run some gas into the keg. But, it will still make for less oxygen in your keg overall. A third method is to just carefully transfer your ready-to-keg beer into the keg, close the lid, then run some CO2 into your keg's "OUT" fitting and allow the gas to bubble through your beer, alternately purging the system with the gas relief vent valve in the center of your keg's lid. Like method #2, I do this for 30 to 60 seconds. Of course, any of these methods may require you to switch out the "IN" line and "OUT" line plastic barbed fittings to allow the correct match between the line and the post on your cornie keg. But I have several extra sets that I use just for such purposes, along with some nifty quick release hose fittings for gas that make such transfers an easy process. And 2) can you use 4 litre plastic milk jugs for starting yeast in? I would vote against this. Milk and yeast don't do well together. Plastic milk jugs can be hard to clean, (lots of crevasses that are hard to get to, especially around the neck and handle) and even more hard to tell for certain that they have been cleaned and sanitized to provide a non-lactobacillus environment. Way back in my early days of brewing, I had to do my brewing and bottling in my kitchen. I was also making homemade yogurt at the time. Can you say CONTAMINATION? There were about 3 batches of beer that I did that ended up with a lacto contamination as a result of some cross-culturing. I would suggest sticking with water containers or better yet, some 1/2 gallon or 1 gallon glass cider jugs, or depending on where you live (which I would know if you had put your location in your signature line; I'm guessing Canada, possibly Quebec, judging by the spelling of "litre"), you could stop by your local brewpub and buy a full growler of beer, drink the beer, and use the growler as a starter container for your next batch. Hope this helps! Steve Johnson, President Music City Brewers Nashville, TN (western Davidson Co.) unknown Rennerian coordinates, but maybe he'll calculate it for me one day... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:55:34 -0400 (EDT) From: Ed Jones <ejones at sdl.psych.wright.edu> Subject: Re: When to stop sparging Danny in West Lafayette, Indiana writes: > So what is the practical method to know when you've hit 1.010 ... since > the outflow is warm to hot, and flowing, etc. all while you're trying to > float a hydrometer and do the calculations, whatever they are, etc. > When I don't even know that I'll have a free hand!! > > Do I relax and ask my wife to measure the gravity of a sample? And how > does one correct for the temp of the outflow? Doing this with a hydrometer is a PITA. I put a tee and an additional ball valve for sampling off my mash/lauter tun to get a small sample that I can use on my brand-spanking-new temperature-correcting refractometer. I got tired of taking samples large enough for a hydro reading several times during a brew session and trying to cool them fast enough to get a decent reading before the sparge was over. www.morebeer.com has a cheap ATC refractometer for sale right now for $99. It's made in China, but appears to work just fine. - -- Ed Jones Columbus Ohio "When I was sufficiently recovered to be permitted to take nourishment, I felt the most extraordinary desire for a glass of Guinness...I am confident that it contributed more than anything else to my recovery." - written by a wounded officer after Battle of Waterloo, 1815 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 15:31:33 -0600 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day Brewers it's time to spread the love! November 3 is the American Homebrewers Association's 3rd Annual Teach A Friend To Homebrew Day. Just think of all those poor souls who have never experienced the joy of homebrewing...well the weekend of November 3 is the time to do something about it! Grab friends, family, the neighbors, random pets, whoever and teach them to brew. Take 'em to the local homebrew supply shop and introduce them to the owner and get your ingredients. Then brew up a tasty batch of homebrew while of course sharing some of your own homebrew. By bring new brewers into the fold, we ensure the vitality of the hobby--er, way of life--of homebrewing. When we welcome new brewers into the hobby, the entire beer community improves. The local homebrew shop gets more business and can provide fresher ingredients and better equipment selection. The local homebrew club has more potential members. And the brewing community receives more experienced, knowledgeable beer enthusiasts who can spread the word and point others toward better beer. For details and to register your site see www.beertown.org/AHA/teachbrew/teachday.htm. Cheers! Gary Glass--Boulder, CO [no idea where that is in Rennerian coordinates] Project Coordinator Association of Brewers 888-U-CAN-BREW Voice: (303) 447-0816 x 121 Fax: (303) 447-2825 Email: gary at aob.org Web: http://www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 17:14:29 -0500 From: "marc_hawley" <marc_hawley at msn.com> Subject: exposed wires "I have just installed two hot water heater elements in my HLT and boiling kettle. I am trying to find an effective way of covering the exposed element wires. I could always cover them with electrical tape, but I would like better water resistance when I clean the kegs. Any suggestions?" I use some stuff called "Liquid Electrical Tape". You just paint it on with the little brush attached to the inside of the cap. It dries to a flexible plastic-like coating. Maybe not up to "code" but better than nothing. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:56:03 -0400 From: "Dave & Joan King" <dking3 at stny.rr.com> Subject: Re:Covering exposed wires on heater elements Kevin, While insulating those wires is a good idea, a ground fault interupt circuit is good too, since you've got all that conductive liquid around. I didn't worry much about insulation, but the GFI was definite in my RIMS. Dave King (BIER) Return to table of contents
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