HOMEBREW Digest #3789 Fri 16 November 2001

[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]

		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********

  hops and DIPs (ensmingr)
  Yeast Starters (Mike Lemons)
  Propane Burners II ("Timmy R")
  Re: Speaking of the stoves ("Doug Hurst")
  yeast/alcohol tolerance ("Sedam, Marc")
  Cider sweetening ("Jamie Smith")
  re: husk or no husk, that's the question ("Mark Tumarkin")
  false bottom material ("fermentos")
  Gas Piping ("Vernon, Mark")
  RE: Gas Piping ("Van Zante, Bill")
  AHA Homebrewer of the Year Trophy ("Gary Glass")
  English Lesson ("Bret Mayden")
  Raspberry Wit #2 (Steven S)

* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 00:49:49 -0500 From: ensmingr at twcny.rr.com Subject: hops and DIPs Greetings, Just saw an article to be published in Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. USA.. Not sure, but I assume that DIPs are what we call 'alpha acids'. Anyone (e.g. Steve Alexander) know? BTW, I hypothesized a 'defensive' function for hop alpha acids more than 5 years ago. See: Ensminger PA (1996) Light and Beer. Zymurgy, 19(3): 38-43. Cheerio! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY homebrewer: http://hbd.org/ensmingr/ author: http://www.yale.edu/yup/lifesun Attractive and defensive functions of the ultraviolet pigments of a flower (Hypericum calycinum) Matthew Gronquist, Alexander Bezzerides, Athula Attygalle*, Jerrold Meinwald*, Maria Eisner, and Thomas Eisner, The flower of Hypericum calycinum, which appears uniformly yellow to humans, bears a UV pattern, presumably visible to insects. Two categories of pigments, flavonoids and dearomatized isoprenylated phloroglucinols (DIPs), are responsible for the UV demarcations of this flower. Flavonoids had been shown previously to function as floral UV pigments, but DIPs had not been demonstrated to serve in that capacity. We found the DIPs to be present in high concentration in the anthers and ovarian wall of the flower, suggesting that the compounds also serve in defense. Indeed, feeding tests done with one of the DIPs (hypercalin A) showed the compound to be deterrent and toxic to a caterpillar (Utetheisa ornatrix). The possibility that floral UV pigments fulfill both a visual and a defensive function had not previously been contemplated. DIPs may also serve for protection of female reproductive structures in other plants, for example in hops (Humulus lupulus). The DIPs of hops are put to human use as bitter flavoring agents and preservatives in beer. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 01:18:17 -0800 From: Mike Lemons <ndcent at hotmail.com> Subject: Yeast Starters I like to reserve a flask of boiled wort for when I may need to make a yeast starter. I put a rubber stopper in it and keep it in the fridge. I put plastic wrap over the top because it is microbe city in there and I am worried about stuff settling in the crevasse between the stopper and the neck. I've heard of someone who puts away five gallons in a keg just to make starters with. It would take me a few years to use that up. If I haven't planned ahead, I have to boil up a new starter. I use an erlenmeyer flask with dried malt extract and distilled water at a ratio of 50 grams per liter. I boil it for twenty minutes. (I've heard that it is important to use distilled water, but heck if I know why) I have a big problem with boil overs. I went to a bead store (yeah, we have those in California) and bought some clear glass beads to boil with. This helped a lot. Now it takes ten minutes to boil over instead of five. I've got some antifoam from Hoptech. I'll try it next time. I would feel better about it if I knew what was in it. After boiling, I chill the flask in an ice water bath. This is a good time to use a foam stopper because a solid rubber stopper will get sucked into the flask so that it becomes very difficult to remove. (If you sanitize a foam stopper with Iodophor, it will stay that color until the end of time) The starter is chilled until it reaches the temperature of the culture that it will be inoculated with. Then I oxygenate and add the yeast. I use a one-hole stopper with an airlock in it. This is not an ideal method. A foam stopper would continue to provide oxygen throughout the growth cycle. But then, how would I know when the starter was at high kraeusen and it was time to pitch? The airlock provides a clear indication of yeast activity, so I am reluctant to give it up. If you really want to get high tech, you can ferment on a magnetic stirrer. This will produce a much greater cell count in the same volume of starter. But a 5 x 7" hot plate/stirrer is $329 from Cynmar. Kind of expensive. This idea of putting the starter in the fridge overnight before pitching sounds like a bad idea to me. You are exposing the yeast to some pretty rapid temperature changes. If getting those last stragglers to flocculate is the only justification for doing this, it doesn't seem worth the stress it causes. I've been thinking about the practice of building up a small colony of yeast cells in stages to produce a starter large enough for brewing. There are a lot of things that we do to make beer simply because that is the way things have always been done. I'm starting to wonder if this is one of those things. I assume that the purpose of the stage method is to ensure a pure colony at the end of the process that is free of contamination from bacteria and other undesirable microbes. From what I understand, if you introduce bacteria at the same time as the yeast and get into some kind of race condition, the yeast are going to lose. The bacteria reproduce faster. Even a small advantage, multiplied over several generations, will cause the bacteria to overtake the yeast. The self protection from the yeast themselves occurs near the end of the ferment when the yeast have dropped the pH, built up the alcohol, etc. This would be a benefit if we were doing open fermentations where there was a constant inflow of other organisms. But we take steps to seal up or at least cover our fermentation vessels, so that there is no contamination in the later stages of fermentation. It seems to me that the range of "likely contamination events" that we are protecting against by building up a starter in stages is quite small. The drawback of using stages is that each new stage provides new opportunities for contamination. Maybe a different method such as adding lysozyme to the starter would provide a greater degree of protection in a single stage. Mike Lemons Carlsbad, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:37:38 -0500 From: "Timmy R" <par8head at earthlink.net> Subject: Propane Burners II Thanks for the responses. I'm off on a trip today (to Germany with any luck) and then going to Costco as soon as I get back. It sure seems like the SS burner & 8 gallon pot may be the way to go.. Prosit! Timmy Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 08:25:45 -0600 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Re: Speaking of the stoves Jeff Renner said: >Speaking of the stove, that's the other problem. A big kettle like >that works well because it covers two burners, but I really >discolored the tops of three stoves. I have a 30 qrt. brew kettle that sits across two burners on my gas stove. I have also found that it discolors the enamel area between the burners. I started to scrub it off with a scouring pad when I realized I was scratching the enamel. The solution was to get a can of spray on oven cleaner. I follow the directions on the can and it works like a charm, for the most part. A few spots have developed which I can't get off. Have others had this problem? What are your solutions? Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [215, 264.5] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 10:27:14 -0500 From: "Sedam, Marc" <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: yeast/alcohol tolerance I'm a little late to the game here, but whenever this question comes up I feel compelled to ask people to search the archives for "Clayton Cone." Dr. Cone indulged the HBD with its questions on yeast a year or so ago and we covered this and other topics. Basically, ANY yeast (ale or lager) is able to ferment high gravity worts if you do the following three things: (1) a high pitching rate (2-3x the "normal" size)-- I usually ferment out an entire beer first, then drop the wort on the entire yeast sediment from the first batch; (2) there are suitable yeast nutrients in the wort-- I've used 2t of Wyeast nutrient dissolved in a cup of hot water and dumped into the cold wort in my big beers; and (3) the wort is acceptably aerated/oxygenated-- Dr. Cone suggested adding the O2 at 12-14 hours after pitching. I usually aerate at pitching, and again 12 hours later. Makes me feel better. I fermented a wort with an OG of 1.120 last year with the White Labs Zurich lager yeast. Performed all of the above steps and had an ungodly powerful fermentation within two hours, and reached a terminal gravity of 1.021. It can be done. I'm sure the 1007 will perform admirably. Cheers! Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 14:24:29 -0400 From: "Jamie Smith" <jxsmith at vac-acc.gc.ca> Subject: Cider sweetening I just made my first batch of hard cider using canned pure apple juice, corn sugar and yeast. Started with a high gravity (1.060) , ended with a new-to-me record low gravity (<0.090). As it turns out, it is potent and dry. No, that's not it. It's a genuine porch-crawler and is down right sour. Is there any way to sweeten it up? Can I salvage it just by adding sugar or will it just keep fermenting? Jamie on PEI PS - thought I'd make up some labels calling it Dickens.? ;) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 13:27:21 -0500 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: husk or no husk, that's the question Hans asked about which brewing grains have husks: Barley = Yes Wheat = No Rice = Yes Maize = No Rye = No Oat = Yes Sorghum = No Quinoa = No, but covered by a bitter layer of resinous saponin Buckwheat = No Triticale = No Millet = No Spelt = Yes I got this info from a member of our brew clu; Dr. Bob "It doesn't have enough Hops" Bates. Dr. Bob is a member of the UF faculty, in the Ag dept. doing fermentation science. He's specializes in wine (which is a bitch here in FL) but has brewed using many of the above grains. He is most enthusiastic about triticale, saying that he's convinced it can make as good a beer as you can make with barley. Hope this helps, Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 11:39:18 -0800 From: "fermentos" <fermentos at home.com> Subject: false bottom material Greetings - I have a large scale cooler mash tun and I am looking for the plastic perforated false bottom material. I need a large sheet about 2' x 4'. I have search with out any luck. Any sources would be appreciated. Fermentos at Home.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 15:22:25 -0600 From: "Vernon, Mark" <mark.vernon at pioneer.com> Subject: Gas Piping I am looking at upgrading my rims from one propane burner to 3. Around here for natural gas piping they use black pipe - not very easy to work with for a DIY'er. My question is can I hard pipe my brew stand with copper pipe - a much easier product for me to work with. Mark Vernon, MCSE, MCT Sr. Network Engineer Global Infrastructure Pioneer, A DuPont Company EMail:Mark.Vernon at Pioneer.com Office:(515)270-4188 Cell: (515) 360-1729 I have simply tried to do what seemed best each day, as each day came. -- Abraham Lincoln Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 15:37:00 -0600 From: "Van Zante, Bill" <bill.vanzante at pioneer.com> Subject: RE: Gas Piping Mark, Copper and natural gas is a bad idea to use for long term situations like building a house or plumbing a dryer. Natural gas attacks the copper and over time cause leaks. It's the sulfur agents they use to make natural gas stink that causes the corrosion. For your application you could probably get by with copper provided you plumb in the appropriate shutoffs at the source and "drain" the system when finished. That can be done by closing the feed valve and leaving the valve to your burners open. I've used high-pressure tubing for my burners and have had no problems. Bill - -----Original Message----- From: Vernon, Mark Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2001 3:22 PM To: HBD (E-mail) Cc: 'founders at iowabrewersunion.org' Subject: Gas Piping I am looking at upgrading my rims from one propane burner to 3. Around here for natural gas piping they use black pipe - not very easy to work with for a DIY'er. My question is can I hard pipe my brew stand with copper pipe - a much easier product for me to work with. Mark Vernon, MCSE, MCT Sr. Network Engineer Global Infrastructure Pioneer, A DuPont Company EMail:Mark.Vernon at Pioneer.com Office:(515)270-4188 Cell: (515) 360-1729 I have simply tried to do what seemed best each day, as each day came. -- Abraham Lincoln Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 15:29:58 -0700 From: "Gary Glass" <gary at aob.org> Subject: AHA Homebrewer of the Year Trophy Hi Everyone, I have the unfortunate duty of reporting that the American Homebrewers Association Homebrewer of the Year trophy was stolen after the National Homebrewers Conference in LA--the package that the trophy was in was taken from the Four Points Sheraton LAX before it could be shipped back to Boulder. The trophy, a beautiful brass sculpture of an old mash tun mounted on wood, donated to the AHA many years ago by Muntons. A Muntons engineer handcrafted the trophy in his spare time, and so it is one of a kind that cannot be replaced. It is truly a shame that the 2001 AHA Homebrewer of the Year Steve Jones, who won best of show out of nearly 2700 entries, will not have the opportunity to keep the trophy for a year as is traditional for the award. The AHA is not interested in prosecuting anyone for the theft, but we would very much like to have the trophy returned, no questions asked. Any information that might lead to the return of the trophy would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Gary Glass, Project Coordinator Association of Brewers 888-U-CAN-BREW (303) 447-0816 x 121 gary at aob.org www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 16 Nov 2001 02:18:33 +0000 From: "Bret Mayden" <brmayden at hotmail.com> Subject: English Lesson Some definitions: "BAR. An altar at which the weary, dispirited and a-thirst were wont to worship. It consisted of a long, flat expanse of mahogany supported by a base at the foot of which was a brass rail. The officiating priest stood behind the bar and poured forth libations for the supplicants on the other side. The ritual comprised putting one foot on the rail, lifting the oblation on high, and then drinking with impressive ceremony. It is now faced by high stools on which debutantes and other females sit while having their afternoon 'tea.' COCKTAIL. Any one of hundreds of pernicious concoctions that have made America stomach-conscious. A fine disguise for the raw taste of synthetic liquor, and the steam that turns the wheels of nearly every party. The reason why young girls tell all, and speakeasy proprietors buy Rolls-Royces. FERMENTATION. An act of God, helped by a little yeast, that prohibitionists, members of the W.C.T.U., and other gloom-creators, would like to restrain the Divinity from using." >From The Homemade Beer Book,Vrest Orton, 1973, Charles E. Tuttle Co., Rutland, Vermont First published privately in 1932 (height of Prohibition) members of "The Company of Amateur Brewers," a private homebrew club. Bret A. Mayden Oklahoma City OK brmayden at hotmail.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 15 Nov 2001 21:29:23 -0500 (EST) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Raspberry Wit #2 My second attempt at a raspberry wit(wheat) has finally come to the stage that its quite drinkable. I brewed this batch on 1 Oct 2001 so 6 weeks and its quite tasty. The carbonation is not bad, its bottle conditioned and could stand a few more weeks in the bottle. Head retention is low though. There is a great raspberry/saaz aroma. The bittering of the hops balances nicely, i think, against the tart raspberrys. What it needs is a bit more sweetness. Oatmeal is critical for a wheat I believe. It gives a nice bit of body that my wheat beers without oatmeal definatly miss. It could maybe use a bit more crystal and maybe a bit more maltyness My recipe in case anyone is interested. 5# Munich Malt 2# American 2-row 5# Torrified Wheat 1# Belgian Aromatic 1# Oatmeal 1/2# Crystal Malt (20-40L) 3oz Saaz (3%AA) White Labs Belgian Wit Yeast 5# Frozen Raspberrys I did a simple single step mash, batch sparge. I First Wort Hopped with 1 1/2 oz Saaz. Dry hopped the other 1 1/2oz, ie: placed in primary in a hop bag. I use hop sacks for my pellets so adjust accordingly. Initial Gravity was 1.068 (seems high). I racked from my primary to a carboy with 5# of raspberrys on the bottom at 1.040 after about a week. Fermentation continued and finished after a week at 1.008. I racked to a 3rd carboy to clear and then bottled. Primed bottles with primetabs. My finished product is wheat cloudy which i'm somewhat convinced comes from torrified wheat. It might also be my technique. Its damn good so I'm not going to gripe too much. Steven St.Laurent ::: stevensl at mindspring.net ::: 403forbidden.net [580.2, 181.4] Rennerian ::: Lilburn (atlanta) GA Return to table of contents
[Prev HBD] [Index] [Next HBD] [Back]
HTML-ized on 11/16/01, by HBD2HTML v1.2 by KFL
webmaster at hbd.org, KFL, 10/9/96