HOMEBREW Digest #3793 Wed 21 November 2001

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  Re: Triticale (Brad McMahon)
  Chest freezer used for temperature control??? ("robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com")
  re: Teaching Pub ("robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com")
  Re: carboys (Mike Uchima)
  RE: triticale (bjackson)
  RE: Teaching Pub ("Tim R")
  Phil's Pub and Flaked Barley ("Abby, Davey, Ellen and Alan")
  Fw: Gruit ("Gerard Goossens")
  re: Carboy anxiety . . . (John Schnupp)
  Clarity Ale malt ("Chuck Dougherty")
  RE: Phil's wee-wee (Brian Lundeen)
  carboy carry and chocolate ("Joseph Marsh")
  Re: Chocolate flavor (Matthew Comstock)
  RE: Carboys & Carboy handles ("Pete Calinski")
  Re: Stupid brewer tricks-Burnt IPA (Rick)
  chocolate porter (Marc Sedam)
  Giving your mash kettle a BJ (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Yeast Starters (Demonick)
  Triticale ("Schrempp, Michael")
  RE: Chocolate flavor ("Zierdt")
  Beer-related mouse pointers and themes ("Sweeney, David")
  Mashing Equipment Wanted ("Ray Daniels")
  Secondary fermentation/Conditioning (Rolf Karlsson)
  Classic American Pilsner ("Erik Nelson")
  Cleaning Beer Lines ("df ds")
  Off Flavors ("Bates, Floyd G")
  Re: Nitrogenation, Guinness head (Svlnroozls)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:39:53 +1030 From: Brad McMahon <brad at sa.apana.org.au> Subject: Re: Triticale >From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> > >The trouble with triticale (and I guess tribbles) is that it may be hard to >find. Here in Florida, it is grown and used as animal feed. So you might try >looking in your local feed store (for the tritciale, that is; though maybe >tribbles too?) Where I am, triticale is available in the supermarket in the organic/hippy section. I'm pretty sure I've seen flaked triticale there too. I've thought about using it in a beer, but I haven't taken the plunge as yet. Cheers, Brad McMahon Aldgate, South Australia [10104 mi, 268 deg] Rennarian Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 21:25:12 -0800 From: "robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com" <robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com> Subject: Chest freezer used for temperature control??? Hello all, Wanted to pass something by everyone. One of my problems in the past was that I really had no way of controlling my fermentation/lagering temps. Frankly, I only made one lager, and EVERY judge that ever tasted it said that I needed to control my temps better! The other day I was blowing some time at Costco, and noticed a smallish chest freezer and "the wheels started turning!!" Has anyone on the digest used one of these for controling fermentation/lagering temps? The biggest disadantage I can see would be that you have to bend over to put the carboy/keg in, or get it out. That could be bad on your back if you bent the wrong way. A minor concern I had was whether the floor could support the weight of the larger volumes (such as a keg!). The advantage is that fact that this is a really small cube, as opposed to a full-sized fridge! What do people think? Robert Marshall robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com NNY Brewing Company (NO, not Northern New York, No Name Yet") Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 21:30:22 -0800 From: "robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com" <robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com> Subject: re: Teaching Pub Dan, Maybe I missed some stuff since I just resubscribed a week ago, so if I did go light please! What is your current use permit written for? Is it strictly Retail, or do you also have a permit that allows the sale of alcohol? Here are the issues that I see: 1 - To serve alcohol you have to have an on-site license. This is going to be different than a simple Retail permit in most states. 2 - If you want to manufacture the brew on-premises then you will have to have a different license. Some states have a combo license to cover both of those, and some do NOT allow you to combine them, and you must be either or, but not both. (again, I don't know what state you're in). 3 - You want to allow people to brew their own beer on premises. With this you are a cooking facility. The downfall is that you CANNOT resell anything that any of the homebrewers made. 4 - This one is really far out, and probably just a fantasy. You are a school, and you charge people "tuition" to enter the premises. The beers are the "books" and you have educational materials that go with it. If you're crazy enough to try this option, let me know, and I'll consider being your first student (if you're in CA)!! There was an interesting operation in Charlottesville, VA, called Monticello Brewing. He was a BOP, but also used the small equipment to brew his own beers for the small pub that was there. Alas, they closed Oct. 2000. I had thought they were going to reopen in some capacity, but I haven't been back there since I don't work the job that used to have me traveling to VA every other month. Robert Marshall robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com NNY Brewing Company (NO, not Northern New York, No Name Yet") Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 19 Nov 2001 23:47:32 -0600 From: Mike Uchima <uchima at pobox.com> Subject: Re: carboys > The card that comes with the orange handles says not to trust > the handle to carry the carboy--it can snap the neck off without > much warning! That said, I use kegs now. Very break resistant. Has anyone ever actually had the neck snap off when using one of the orange handles? Just wondering. I have been using glass carboys for 6+ years. Haven't busted one yet (knock on wood). But after seeing Steve's post, I think I will make sure I am wearing shoes whenever I'm moving them around... - -- == Mike Uchima == uchima at pobox.com == http://www.pobox.com/~uchima == Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 17:43:57 +1100 From: bjackson at ozemail.com.au Subject: RE: triticale For folks looking for info on triticale a good reference is http://planta.waite.adelaide.edu.au/people/kc/ which seems to have links to all things triticale. Bill J Adelaide, South Australia This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 06:12:45 -0500 From: "Tim R" <par8head at earthlink.net> Subject: RE: Teaching Pub Dan - Very cool idea. I can't think of a better way to blend homebrewing and a "brewpub." LDBW. . . Timmy par8head at earthlink.net AIM: par8head5 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 07:23:53 -0400 From: "Abby, Davey, Ellen and Alan" <elal at pei.sympatico.ca> Subject: Phil's Pub and Flaked Barley Phil - I know of a neighbourhood you might put your new pub! I can help with the local aclimatization. Another poster wanted to know what can be done to assist in making an Irish Stout Kit more authentic. I would do a mini mash (just wrap a pot up in 10 towels after you have the grain and water in) of flaked or rolled barley. I find this always improves the head in both volume and minuteness of bubbles. Strain the liqour you obtain from 90 minutes or so at 65C at add that to your boil volume. Alan in PEI Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 13:13:55 +0100 From: "Gerard Goossens" <Gerard-g at hotpop.com> Subject: Fw: Gruit Hello fellow brewers, I have a recepie for a beer that is spiced with "gruit". Please help!! What is this. I heard that it was mainly Gagel or something like this. Best regards, Gerard Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 06:23:02 -0800 (PST) From: John Schnupp <johnschnupp at yahoo.com> Subject: re: Carboy anxiety . . . Dave Galloway purposes: >I have found that dairy crates of the metal variety make for a hardy "cage" >for carboys. I'm mostly a lurker on the list I am but am getting up on the soapbox on this one. Milk crates are not any safer. I know. Broken glass is stitches waiting to happen. Any unbroken glass + gravity + hard surface almost always = broken glass. I had a 5 gallon carboy full of maple sap. It was in a plastic milk crate. I was moving it from my car into the house. I tripped on the sidewalk. Not sure if I missed the step or the loop of one boot lace caught the eye-hook on the other boot, but down I went. As I was falling, I managed to redirect the path of the carboy to the left. I was VERY lucky I did not get cut. I still use glass carboys, but no matter what there is always a certain hazard with glass that is not present with plastic. ===== John Schnupp, N3CNL ??? Hombrewery [560.2, 68.6] Rennerian Georgia, VT 95 XLH 1200, Horse with no Name Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:23:39 -0600 From: "Chuck Dougherty" <jdougherty at wlj.com> Subject: Clarity Ale malt I was just perusing the new Williams Brewing catalog, and noticed that they are now selling a pale ale malt from Crisp called Clarity Ale. The catalog claims that this malt has virtually no polyphenols, thereby reducing or eliminating chill haze in the finished beer. I would be curious to hear about anyone's experiences using this malt. Does it perform as advertised? Is there a down side to using this malt? Chuck Dougherty Little Rock, AR [694.8, 224.6] Rennerian (apparent) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:36:36 -0600 From: Brian Lundeen <blundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: Phil's wee-wee Part-time HBD poster and full-time Australian David Lamotte gives us his take on the complex being that is Phil Yates: > I can > imagine that there > are days when you don't even bother to dress, preferring to > just shuffle > about your rambling mansion wearing nothing but your old, threadbare > dressingown. A schooner in one hand and the butt end of a fag in the > other. Depending on whose definition of fag is meant here, the image in my mind is either mildly humourous or extremely disturbing. Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing at [314,829] aka Winnipeg PS Note to Roger: We ALL have way too much free time. We're brewers, aren't we? PPS Aren't PS notes really an anachronism in this age of word processors? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 09:57:00 -0500 From: "Joseph Marsh" <josephmarsh62 at hotmail.com> Subject: carboy carry and chocolate For lugging around carboys I use 10 gallon rubbermaid buckets. I got them originally for fermentors but after a couple of spoiled batches I gave up that idea. Now after gaining some experience I'm sure I could use them with success but why bother? The buckets support my 6&1/2 gallon carboys from the bottom, they have sturdy handles and I can use them as swamp coolers if I need to. Also it's easy to wrap some newspaper around them to keep out light. Another thing, the buckets give good protection from bumps and from scratches on the bottom. I can probably think of more advantages if I try. The one absolute is to make sure what ever you use has sturdy handles. Think of all the laundry baskets you've seen and you'll get the idea. Chocolate stout. I tried using an excellent bakers chocolate in the secondary but I got an infection that turned the stout a little bit sour. If I were to try again I'd add the chocolate at the very end of the boil to kill the the bad bugs. I -think- you would lose a little chocolate aroma but in homebrew scale use an extra ounce and don't worry. The beer was salvageable with a little wine conditioner and in fact was quite good. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 07:26:03 -0800 (PST) From: Matthew Comstock <mccomstock at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Chocolate flavor Jeff Pursley asks about getting a chocolate flavor in stouts (for his wife) I've done the same experiment. My suggestion is: do not use unsweetened bakers chocolate. I have two cases of chocolate raspberry stout sitting in my basement. Well, minus the one bottle I tried. The sharp tang of both chocolate and raspberry was too much for me. But the worst thing is the waxy orangy layer of chocolate clumps at the top of each and every bottle. Not appealing. I think the chocolate flavor in the stouts I've tried comes from the right combination of specialty grains. Maybe others can help more there. Good luck! Matt Comstock in Cincinnati Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:34:08 -0500 From: "Pete Calinski" <pcalinski at iname.com> Subject: RE: Carboys & Carboy handles I have found that 5 gallon carboys fit nicely in an old bottling bucket. I don't fully trust the bucket handle so I keep a hand under the bottom when I carry it. For 6 or 6.5 gallon carboys, I use a plastic crate available for < $3.00. A few pieces of twine looped over the neck keep the two together. Hope this helps. Pete Calinski East Amherst NY Near Buffalo NY *********************************************************** *My goal: * Go through life and never drink the same beer twice. * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a beer.) *********************************************************** Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 07:41:47 -0800 (PST) From: Rick <ale_brewer at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Stupid brewer tricks-Burnt IPA Al in MI wrote: >Greetings all, Last week I brewed up 10 gallons of IPA >(extract w/grain) in a half barrel kettle. All went >well, except for the scorched extract at the bottom of >the kettle. Apparently the extract sank to the bottom >rather quickly before dissolving and scorched. I >transferred to secondary yesterday and tasted it. >Tasted really good except for the "burnt toast" kind >of flavor. Is there anything I might do to eliminate >this flavor? This brings up a point that has always puzzled me about extract brewing. Why to all texts seem to instruct that the water must be boiling or near it before extract can be added? Granted the warmer the water, the easier the extract mixes, but does it need to be boiling? The best thing I ever did when extract brewing was change how I added the extract to the water. I'd fill my 5gal brewpot half full and heat the water to about 120 degrees. Then I'd mix the extract in the warm water. If I was using specialty grains the procedure was identical but the temperature was in the 150's. Then when I was sure the extract was completely mixed in, I added the rest of the water and heated to boil. Is there a significant advantage to adding extract at such higher temps when you consider the potential of scorching? Rick Seibt Mentor, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:43:13 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: chocolate porter Hi Jeff, Rogue actually uses chocolate in the recipe. Find your favorite porter recipe and add a can of cocoa powder to the boil. Skim off all of the gunk from the boil (it's the cocoa butter) and you should be OK. I also skimmed off the krauesen from the ferment too. You do this so that the head on the final beer isn't wrecked by the cocoa butter. Good luck. Anything to bring another person into the beer brewing fold. -Marc - -- Marc Sedam Associate Director Office of Technology Development The University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill 308 Bynum Hall; CB# 4105 Chapel Hill, NC 27599-4105 919.966.3929 (phone) 919.962.0646 (fax) OTD site : http://www.research.unc.edu/otd Monthly Seminar Info: http://www.research.unc.edu/otd/seminar/ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:45:19 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net> Subject: Giving your mash kettle a BJ Brewers A friend of mine, Bill Holmes, brewed with me a couple of weeks ago and we had a hop flower (I guess) blocking the outlet hose when we were recirculating the chilled wort. I was going to do the old trick and blow on it, but he suggested an obvious alternative that somehow hadn't occurred to me - use the CO2 tank. I turned the pressure way down to barely a hiss, butted the two hoses together, and Hey Presto! - no block. Much easier, more sanitary, no burnt lips, and much more power available if necessary. This should have an additional advantage in the case of a stuck mash - no oxygen to oxidize hot mash. Even an old dog can learn new tricks. Every day, hopefully. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:08:48 -0800 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: Re: Yeast Starters Domenick <demonick at zgi.com> said, >The only statistic I have is that my lag times are never more than 4 >hours, often just 2 hours. Glen <glen_pannicke at merck.com> responded, >This is a great lag time (where is the lag?!?). I haven't been able to >get down that low unless the yeast are in a very active state or if I >pitched onto the yeast cake of a previous batch (barleywines excepted). I >think the lag time (at best) was somewhere around 6-8 hours when I chilled >the starters. Then again, I only know it's fermenting when the lock >starts bubbling. Let me explain the short lag times (time from pitching to airlock burp). I make fairly big aerated starters (1700 ml), and get a lot of yeast (http://www.primetab.com/yeaststarter.html). When the starter is fermented out it is chilled in the fridge for one to a few days. On brew day while wort is filling the carboy, the starter is removed from the fridge, decanted, and wort diverted from the carboy into the flask, say about 500 ml. The yeast is resuspended in the fresh wort by swirling and set aside to "wake up". It takes me at least 1, and more generally 2 hours to finish the transfer, aerate, and cleanup. By the time I am ready to pitch, the starter has a nice layer of foam and is obviously active. This is pitched. It is a lot of yeast, wide-awake and actively fermenting. After pitching it doesn't take much time to burp the airlock. In effect, I am cheating. Up to 2 hours of lag time actually occurs in the starter flask. Domenick Venezia Venezia & Company, LLC Maker of PrimeTab (206) 782-1152 phone (206) 782-6766 fax Seattle, WA demonick at zgi dot com http://www.primetab.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 08:25:41 -0800 From: "Schrempp, Michael" <michael.schrempp at intel.com> Subject: Triticale Out here on the west coast, grocery stores carry a lot of strange grins from a company called "Bob's Red Mill". Never seen triticale at the store but they are also on-line and have it there. They have rolled, whole berries and milled. Cost is about $1.50 for a pound or $15 for a 25lb sack. We eat a lot of oatmeal at home and buy from these guys by the 25lb sack. They've got just about every kind of grain imaginable. www.bobsredmill.net <http://www.bobsredmill.net> No affiliation, just a satisfied customer. On that burnt beer, maybe call it a failed rauchbier experiment. On that pissing inna glass, if the input and output glasses get mixed up, some of those 15 liters might be being counted 2, 3 or even 4 times. It's a tough way to make a little beer go farther. Mike Schrempp (1968.3, 269.9) Rennerian (Apparent) - --Maybe if Jeff got a GPS which automatically downloaded his present whereabouts to his web site, we could dispense with the "apparent" and report Rennerian True. Of course then we'd need to add a time stamp... Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 10:40:54 -0600 From: "Zierdt" <zierdt at mindspring.com> Subject: RE: Chocolate flavor Jeff Pursley asked about chocolate flavor in beer. I have made a delicious chocolate porter using Ghiardelli's unsweetened cocoa powder. I use 0.5 cup for a five gallon batch added with about 10 min left in the boil. This gives a great chocolate flavor that is not too overpowering. I have not had any problems with head retention from the oils in the chocolate. I suggest you take your favorite stout recipie and simply add chocolate. If you brew a 10 gallon batch, you can pull about 2 qts of wort with 15 min left in the boil and add the chocolate to the wort on the stove. Chill in an ice bath in the sink and add to one of the fermentors with the rest of the wort from the regular batch. This will give you 5 gals of regular stout and 5 gal of chocolate. I just did this with a porter so I could add holiday spices to for my wife and it turned out great. If you can keep your wife supplied with beer she likes, it is much easier to obtain the necessary beer bullets to spend time and money on brewing. My wife's favorite beer is a Vanilla Creme Ale and I almost always have some on tap to satify her! John Zierdt McKinney, Texas (30 min N of Dallas) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 11:47:24 -0600 From: "Sweeney, David" <David at studentlife.tamu.edu> Subject: Beer-related mouse pointers and themes I vaguely remember reading a few digests back of someone who had written a beer-related set of mouse pointers, or window themes, as it were. I've searched the archives and didn't turn anything up. Can anyone repeat the citation? David Sweeney Texas Aggie Brew Club (TABC) Millican, Texas david at studentlife.tamu.edu [1067.2 mi, 219.8 deg] (Apparent) Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 14:21:19 -0600 From: "Ray Daniels" <raydan at ameritech.net> Subject: Mashing Equipment Wanted I know many readers of HBD are involved in the production and sale of homebrewing equipment, so I thought I would pass along this call for information on available equipment options for mashing. Mashing Equipment Wanted!!!!! The March-April issue of Zymurgy will include an article showing equipment that homebrewers can use for conducting a mash. This will include false bottoms and other separation devices as well full mash/lauter vessels. Items should be suitable for homebrew scale: specifically 5 to 15 gallons of finished wort. Depending on space, we may also include auxiliary mashing devices like stirring paddles. We want to include merchandise from all producers, but we can not include items unless they are sent in by the deadline which is December 7. Please e-mail your information to Ray Daniels at ray at aob.org. For each device or product we would like to receive the following: The product or device name Manufacturer or US distributor Sales contact phone number, e-mail, web site Short product description (No more than 150 words.) Retail price of item Photo: Ideally this will be a jpg file with a resolution of 300 dpi or higher. As an alternative, hard copy slides or photographs can be provided. Hard copy photos should be mailed to Dave Harford, March/April Equipment Feature, PO Box 1679, Boulder, CO 80306-1679. When mailing hard copy artwork, be sure to mention that in the e-mailed information. As always, we reserve the right to edit copy and crop images to suit our editorial needs. Any mention of competing products will be eliminated. Ray Daniels Editor, Zymurgy & The New Brewer Director, Brewers Publications ray at aob.org 773-665-1300 Call Customer Service at 888-822-6273 to subscribe or order individual magazines. For more information, see www.beertown.org Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 16:13:25 -0500 From: Rolf Karlsson <bz4n8v at naeng.gm.com> Subject: Secondary fermentation/Conditioning OK, I'm pretty new to this game, so I did a lot of reading before starting. One thing that I'm still not quite clear on is how long secondary fermentation should last. I've seen different advice ranging from "don't bother with a secondary, just leave it in primary for a week or two then bottle" to "transfer to a secondary after 3-5 days, leave it there for a week, then age 3-4 weeks in the bottle" all the way to "transfer to secondary after a few days and leave it there for several weeks to condition, then bottle and wait a week or two for carbonation." What I've been able to glean so far is that sitting on the trub too long is bad, and aging is good. I can't figure out the difference between aging before and after carbonating, i.e. in secondary vs. in the bottle. What says the collective? Thanks, Rolf Karlsson [44.2mi, 9.3] Apparent Rennerian - -- "If the thundercloud passes rain, so let it rain." -Bono, "MLK" Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 15:02:13 -0600 From: "Erik Nelson" <heimbrauer at astound.net> Subject: Classic American Pilsner I am planning on sometime making a CAP, but I am having trouble deciding if it is better to use the flaked maize or use corn meal instead of the maize. I know using the corn meal and doing the american double mash is traditional, but using flaked maize is definitely easier. I would like some opinions on the subject from brewers who have done both. Any suggestions would be nice, since this will be my first CAP You can email me directly at heimbrauer at astound.net Thanks Erik Nelson Sauk Rapids, MN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 22:00:13 +0000 From: "df ds" <lyle25 at hotmail.com> Subject: Cleaning Beer Lines Hi All, I have recently setup a keg system at home (mmmmmm....draught beer!) and am wondering how often the lines need to be cleaned. For example, if I leave beer in the lines after a drinking session for a couple of days will it be off next time I pull a glass or will it be ok? If they do need to be cleaned between sessions, what is the best way of doing it (I have the Ball-lock type connectors). Cheers Lyle. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 18:37:52 -0600 From: "Bates, Floyd G" <BatesFG at bp.com> Subject: Off Flavors I am confused about where an off flavor is coming from. Hopefully someone in the brewing community can provide some guidance. My goal was to brew something similar to Widmer's Hefeweizen without the caramel malt. This beer has great head retention, clarity, color and mouthfeel. There is a slight aroma of bananas, although quite subdued for a weizen. Due to the length of the secondary fermentation, it is actually too clear for this style. Sanitation was of the utmost an at l-retentive nature and the beer was kept under a CO2 blanket during all transfers. Fermentation was aggressive and finished within 5 days. 2 days after being kegged - Somewhat flat-chalky taste, otherwise the wheat taste and hop bitterness seems to be completely missing. Since my boil was so concentrated, could it be that the hops never underwent isomerization? Or is 25 IBU not appropriate for this style? Other than this nagging defect, the beer has very little flavor, which is quite disappointing. I brewed the Miller Lite of weizens! 7 days after being kegged - Added hop tea. My wife's roses can't stand anymore fertilizer this year. Now I recognize the flavor and aroma as being similar to Irish moss, somewhat fishy. This leads me to believe that somewhere in the process I added oxygen to the wort. I did top off this batch with almost two gallons of sparge water at a temp of 165 degrees. Since this water is not oxygenated, could it have introduced enough oxygen to skunk this beer? Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks in advance. Here is the recipe and procedures followed for a NW (Oregon-style) American Hefeweizen: Water Treatment: 4 ml lactic acid (pH initial = 8.36 - pH final = 6.86 Water Composition: (Major 7 components, ppm) Ca - 46.70 Mg - 12.70 Cl - 4.30 Na - 3.40 pH - 8.36 Alkalinity as CaCO3 -125 Hardness as CaCO3 - 128 (You will notice that the Ca and Mg concentrations do not agree with the hardness. I tested the alkalinity and hardness using "M" alkalinity and low level hardness tests. The other numbers, excluding pH, are from the only water report I could find from 1996.) Grist Composition; 2-Row - 42% Wheat - 42% Flaked barley - 16% Mash Program: (30, 30, 10, 20) Dough in cold at 64 degrees F with 2 gallons Raise temp to 101 with infusion of 1 gallon, pH = 5.84 Raised temp to 122 with direct heat, pH = 5.77 Raised temp to 154 with direct hear, pH = 5.59 Conversion complete in 20 minutes Mashed out at 168, pH = 5.41 Mash thickness = 1.25 qts/lb Sparge/lauter: * 90 minutes until SG = 1.014 and pH = 5.77 * Good clarity during recirc Boil: 90 minutes with three hop additions * Great hot and cold breaks Hops Schedule: 60 minutes - 1.40 oz. Hallertau 30 minutes - 0.70 oz. Hallertau 10 minutes - 0.70 oz. Hallertau Yeast: 1st generation WLP320 - 500 ml starter Oxygen: 5 minutes Notes: Added 4 ml lactic acid to drop pH from 6.07 to 5.59 (noticed that my meter was FUBAR since it keeps drifting and losing calibration) Reacidified sparge water to 5.82 before sparging Added 1 ml of lactic acid to the wort at the beginning of the boil, pH = 5.15 Final boil volume was short by 1.75 gallons Final: OG: 1.051, pH = 5.31 FG: 1.014 (fermented in primary 4 days, 10 days in seconday) Initial Vol: 5.6 gallons corrected to 68 degrees F Fermentation temp: 63 degrees F (wanted to avoid the banana shake and cloves) Made a 0.50 gallon Cascade hop tea by boiling 1.00 oz of Cascade for 8 minutes and steeping 0.25 oz for 5 minutes after the boil. Added to keg. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 20 Nov 2001 21:28:31 EST From: Svlnroozls at aol.com Subject: Re: Nitrogenation, Guinness head In a message dated 11/19/01 8:14:44 PM, our colleague Bob Schaffer-Neitz writes: << As far as getting a "Guiness" head on your stout, I'm afraid you're SOL without some serious equipment. That gorgeous, creamy head is made by: 1) carbonating with 75% nitrogen & 25% CO2; 2) dispensing from the keg at 25psi (an outrageously high pressure); and 3) using a special tap that not only is designed to stand up to that kind of pressure but pushes the beer through a series of convolutions on its trip through the tap, whipping the beer into that beautiful, long-lasting froth. I, personally have never brewed a stout for precisely that reason. I'm afraid of putting the time, effort, and money into brewing something that will only make me sigh for what isn't there everytime I look at it. But, I do know that others brew marvelous stouts even without the $300 worth of equipment needed to pour it in an "authentic" fashion. Good luck and let me know how it turns out. Bob Schaffer-Neitz >> As one who works closely with beer and the maintenance and upkeep of beer service equipment for a brewpub (nice perks, pay sucks), I feel I must make some clarifications here. We serve several nitrogenated beers, including Guinness. 25 psi is a good serving pressure for one such beer, but I have seen Guinness served as high as 30. The combination of the high pressure and being forced through a small disk with tiny holes in it in the tap is what causes the exceedingly fine foam and creamy head. Guinness is served this way because nitrogen hasn't the sharp bite that CO2 has and so it serves to temper and smooth out the roasty bitterness of the beer. I know a few homebrewers who proudly own nitrogenation equipment. It's actually a small step to take if one already uses kegs for homebrew. In addition to the CO2 equipment, one only needs to get the slow-pour tap and and the nitrogen (or beer gas--75/25) bottle. I'm not sure how much the bottle will cost but a tap can be had for $70 or so, and gas doesn't cost too much. Anyway, perfectly good stout can be made without nitrogenation. For non-nitro stout, I like to carbonate somewhat softer than usual, and use a moderate amount of dark grains for a more graceful roasty bite. Happy brewing. C.T. Davis So. Cal. [somesuch, which-what] Rennerian Return to table of contents
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