HOMEBREW Digest #3803 Mon 03 December 2001


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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Re: Cult Classic Beers ("Bissell, Todd S")
  RE: While we're talking about Thomas Hardy Ale ("Bissell, Todd S")
  Cutting Holes in the Fridge (Kevin Elsken)
  Canadabrew ("Daniel  Beaton")
  Re: propane exhaust (Marc Tiar)
  RE: Scales (Bill Tobler)
  Weighing Grain ("David Houseman")
  Re: scales ("RJ")
  Re: Question re: Triticale Flakes ("RJ")
  bottling beer thats already carbonated ("ben yep ben")
  Turkey Fryers - HSN (mrwes)
  Weighing in on weighing grain... (Pat Babcock)
  Stout Aging Temp ("Steve Huddle")
  Bottle Cappers ("Dick and Cecilia Kuzara")
  Thomas Hardys aging and Lambic in Chicago (LJ Vitt)
  CULT CLASSICS (NLKANOUS)
  Hop-back clogging ("Craig Olson")
  Wort aeration (Marc Tiar)
  Thanks everyone for the Wheat recipe (Robert Marshall)
  Re:  Local Club Contests ("Houseman, David L")
  Re: turkey fryer and propane exhaust (Craig MacFarlane)
  Re: turkey fryer (Craig MacFarlane)
  "Buck" (Dwight Elliott)
  Re: Homebrew Digest Request (December 02, 1901) (Svlnroozls)
  Need help finding recipe in old Zymurgy special issue (Scott & Cherie Stihler)
  Fermentap (Brian Dube)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:36:01 -0800 From: "Bissell, Todd S" <bis9170 at home.com> Subject: Re: Cult Classic Beers Surprisingly, many of my favorite "cult beers" (interesting choice of words there, Ray...!) have already been showing up in Brew Your Own Replicator recipes, Fat Tire most notably. That having been said, here's a few other craft/import "closet/cult" favorites of mine, that I'd like to see a clone recipe for someday: 1) Medalla (Puerto Rico) 2) Stone Double Bastard (American Strong Ale version of Stone's Arrogant Bastard) 3) Alesmith X Pale Ale 4) Uniboue's La Fin Du Monde, Raftman, Trois Pistoles, etc 5) Duchesse De Bourgogne (Flemish Brown Ale) Cheers! Todd Bissell Imperial Beach, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:48:06 -0800 From: "Bissell, Todd S" <bis9170 at home.com> Subject: RE: While we're talking about Thomas Hardy Ale I used to think the same thing: "Just how much better will a beer get, if the mantra of `fresher is better' is usually the case...?". That is, until I was lucky enough to get a taste of a 10-year old Orval.... pure magic! Since that time, I've been slowly stashing away virtually anything with live yeast and a fair amount of alcohol (Belgians, Imperial Stouts, Old Ales, and Barleywines, mostly). In regards to your `95 or `97 Thomas Hardy that you have had laid down, I suspect that it's about as good as it's going to get, relatively speaking. Many Old Ales and Barleywines of that ilk tend to get a noticeable sherry-like tang to them past 5 years, which you may or may not enjoy. Same goes for the Old Knucklehead. Personally, I enjoy the "tang", especially in die-hard ales like Thomas Hardy and J.W. Lees Harvest Ale. So, find a good occasion to celebrate something, get some friends together, break out the brandy snifters (or wine glasses), and pop open the Thomas Hardy or Old Knucklehead, and judge for yourself whether you have had it laying around too long, not enough, or "ahhhh, just right..." :) Cheers! Todd Bissell Imperial Beach, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 23:53:24 -0500 From: Kevin Elsken <k.elsken at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Cutting Holes in the Fridge There was a recent thread concerning drilling holes in the fridge, and the usual (valid) concerns about hitting wires or sealed system (refrigerant) tubes. Since I have been involved in the refrigerator manufacturing business for almost 20 years (am I getting old...), I thought I might offer a couple of suggestions... I don't know why you would want to drill through the back of the fridge, but don't. There are usually a ton of things in the way. The sides are often free of wires and tubes, but not always. Luckily, the inside liner of most modern refrigerators are made of fairly thin plastic. Turn off the fridge, pick a spot where you might want a hole, and take a box cutter and carefully score a small circle or square on the plastic liner. Then continue to go over the score lines until you have cut completely through the plastic. If you go slowly you will not penetrate far through the plastic, and the odds are slim that you would actually cut a wire. If you can cut through a metal refrigerant tube with a box cutter you are a stronger man than I.... Once you have cut through the plastic, you can use a screwdriver to peel away the section you cut out. You will then see the polyurethane foam insulation. You can use a screwdriver or other fairly dull implement to dig out the insulation, until you reach the metal (outside) liner. If you encounter wires you may be able to push them aside. If you find a refrigerant tube, well, try another spot. Once you have cleared out the insulation it should be a trivial matter to drill out the metal liner. Like I said, most modern fridges have plastic liners. Side by side refrigerators manufactured by General Electric (and sold under other names such as Kenmore, Hotpoint, etc.) may have a metal liner. If that is the case, there is usually an area along the front edge that is made of plastic. This area is a thermal break to prevent conduction of heat into the interior of the fridge. You can try the above procedure in this area, but the plastic might be a bit thicker, and the odds of finding a wire a bit greater. If you have an old Whirlpool fridge, it might have a porcelain on steel liner (they quit making those in 1989). Again, they will have a plastic thermal break all along the inside edge of the fridge. These snap in, and the intrepid brewer may figure be able to snap them out, and then dig a hole in the insulation as I described above. Otherwise, the box cutter trick might work. These suggestions apply to most large refrigerators (12 to 30 cubic foot volume) manufactured in the last 10 years or so. As many before have pointed out, chest freezers usually have coils wrapped around the inside and outside liners and drilling on these is a crap shoot. They also typically have metal interior liners. I am not so familiar with the small 'dorm style' fridges, but if they have a plastic liner I would think my idea would work. Good luck. Kevin Elsken Little Boy Brewery Recently relocated to North Strabane, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 00:55:05 -0400 From: "Daniel Beaton" <daniel.angela at ns.sympatico.ca> Subject: Canadabrew Any of you Canucks out there interested in joining an egroup dedicated to brewing in Canada please feel free to sign up to ours. We are Canadabrew and we have a good mix of advanced brewers and beginers. We do have the ablity to help people find supplies and help in Canada. Daniel. When Life gives you lemons, throw em right back and wrap em around a brick - --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.298 / Virus Database: 161 - Release Date: 11/13/01 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 21:14:25 -0800 From: Marc Tiar <marc at tiar.reno.nv.us> Subject: Re: propane exhaust >Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:53:28 -0800 (PST) >From: Rama Roberts <rama at retro.eng.sun.com> >Subject: turkey fryer and propane exhaust > > >Also, is anyone using propane burners indoors, say in a garage- or are they >always outdoors? I would like to hear thoughts on fire risk and ventilation >with a hood or fan of some sort. I don't know how wise it is, but I've used my propane rig in the garage with door closed a few times with no apparent ill effects. A buddy also used it indoors, in the kitchen, just fine. Had to open the door when it got too warm, but that's about it. Perhaps some more scientific knowledge out there.... Marc Tiar Reno NV [1874.4, 276.4] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 01:08:41 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <WCTobler at brazoria.net> Subject: RE: Scales Patrick, I bought an Escalli on e-bay a while back, and it works great. Max weight is about 6 lbs, and in no time I can weigh out a brew. I brew 10 gal batches, which require 18-32 pounds of grain, depending on the recipe. It's also delicate enough for hops, and you can change the units from grams to oz to lbs and oz easy. It works on a 9 volt battery, and I haven't had any problems with it for a year now. Cheers. And I mean that too!! :>) Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 07:01:20 -0500 From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net> Subject: Weighing Grain I have an old, used baby scale, used to weigh babies. You know the ones that are curved on the top to prevent fall out? This is accurate up to about 24 lbs. It holds about 5 lbs of grain without it spilling off the ends. For small quantities of grain or hops, I have an inexpensive kitchen/postal scale. And for measuring additives to my water in grams or fractions of grams I picked up a very old, but accurate, apothecary scale at a flea market. Dave Houseman SE PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 07:59:11 -0500 From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net> Subject: Re: scales "Patrick Finerty Jr." <pjf at finerty.net> wrote: "I'm curious what people use to weigh the grain for brewing. I have been using a bathroom scale but it's really not that accurate. There seem to be a couple of options on ebay for heavier-duty postal scales that are brand new and will measure either 13# or 40# max. These are priced around $40 to $80 (USD) depending on the max weight they can take." Patrick, My preference has been a old 4# postage (side-beam) scale for grain and 1 to 100 gram (top-load) scale for hops. Ciao, RJ 43:30:3.298N x 71:39:9.911W Lakes Region of NH Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 08:07:19 -0500 From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net> Subject: Re: Question re: Triticale Flakes ..Darrell: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu wrote: "I just purchased some "organic triticale flakes" and want to experiment a bit with them. They look like flaked barley/ flaked wheat in appearance. I am assuming that, as a cross between rye and wheat, they must have some of the head retention qualities of wheat...and some of the "bite" that rye seems to have. I am furthermore assuming that a pound or two is about the max to add to a grain bill...lower for lighter brews, and more for brown ales or stouts....does that make sense ?" Darrell, Not knowing your batch sizes, it would make more sense to put it into a percentage vs. pounds perspective. That said: I would experiement with a tried and true recipe and replace oz for oz, first time out. And, yes I'd agree that less would be better in a lighter brew. Ciao, RJ 43:30:3.298N x 71:39:9.911W Lakes Region of NH Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 01:05:24 +1100 From: "ben yep ben" <dundalinger at hotmail.com> Subject: bottling beer thats already carbonated Beer in bottles gets crystal clear with the sediment stuck pretty hard to the bottome of the bottle right???? Is this because the Carbon in the carbon dioxide bonds to the colloidal sized particles and causes them to floculate?.. If this is the case would it be possible to put your entire brew in a carboy, prime it, and then seal it properly so that the carbonation occured, and then bottle the crystal clear beer while it is already fizzy?. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 15:01:01 +0000 From: mrwes at att.net Subject: Turkey Fryers - HSN My wife just happened to purchase a set of Ultrex cookware from HSN, BTW pretty nice stuff for the price. Anyhow, I was at their web site http://www.hsn.com/content/sf/dept/cat/prod/default.asp? sz=5&sf=QC&dept=QC026&o=nv- QC026&fil=0&days=30&pfid=434659&sku=434659 and notice they too offer a turkey fryer -- stainless steel at that. Would make a great HLT or boil kettle for 5 gallon batches. Thought a few might be interested. Bill Fryer, Ultrex 30-Quart Stainless Steel Turkey Item Number: 434-659 Fryer, Ultrex 30-Quart Stainless Steel Turkey Retail Value: $190.00 HSN Price: $134.50 S & H: $7.95 Sale: $129.85 You Save: $60.15 Off Retail Value Available on Flex Payments: 1 payment of $129.854 payments of $32.46 What is Flex Pay? Take the hassle out of frying your turkey with our Ultrex 30-Quart Stainless Steel Turkey Fryer. This incredible cookware (measures approx. 31 H x 14-1/2 in diameter) features: Wide body design. Cooking stand with 3 legs and bottom ring. Auto igniter. Long-stem thermometer. Hose with regulator control valve. Drain. Cooking pot and lid. Basket hook. For outdoor use only. Gas cylinder not included. UL listed. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 12:27:54 -0500 (EST) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: Weighing in on weighing grain... Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager... Pat Finerty (a fine name, if I do say so myself!) asks what we use to weigh our grains.... I have an antique (~1930) kitchen scale and a Tanita electronic 1-lb scale that I used to use, but the antique is highly variable, and weighing grain a pound at a time is a real grind (no pun intended). Out in Edison NJ one year, I observed one of my compatriots using a force gauge to measure seat efforts for about the millionth time in my career, when it dawned on me: one of thse relatively inexpensive devices hung from a rope, with another loop to connect its rod to the grain bucket, and I can measure to 100 lbs with precision to .1 pound! So, I use the force gauge to measure base grains and most adjuncts, the Tanita to measure hops and ounce-quantity adjucts, and I gaze upon the antique kitchen scale, admiring it's decorative design and remembering the grandmother from whose estate it came. - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock [18, 92.1] Rennerian "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 11:44:11 -0800 From: "Steve Huddle" <huddle007 at home.com> Subject: Stout Aging Temp I've had Sierra Neveda Stout clone bottled and sitting at room temp for = 6 days now carbonating. I'm going to move the cases to a cooler spot to = age for a while. What would be an "ideal" temperature. My basement is on = 64 degrees but my garage is 50 degrees. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 11:26:24 -0700 From: "Dick and Cecilia Kuzara" <rkuzara at wyoming.com> Subject: Bottle Cappers One subject that has not been beat to death on this form (as has been done with grain mills) is bottle cappers. I have been using a "butterfly" style capper and I might like to suggest a bench capper to my wife/kids for Christmas (for me) if I knew of the preferred style. What is everyone's opinion on the best brand of capper? Thanks. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 10:43:18 -0800 (PST) From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> Subject: Thomas Hardys aging and Lambic in Chicago >From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> >Subject: While we're talking about Thomas Hardy Ale >I've got a bottle of Thomas Hardy Ale that was bottled in 1995 or 97 ... >I'd have to go dig up the bottle to find out which. Seems I remember it >being in vogue back then to cellar the stuff for a while. I keep >forgetting about it. >I'm curious as to whether it makes any sense to keep letting it get old >or if I might as well drink it. Thoughts? I have several different years of Thomas Hardy's in the basement 1995-1999. Some time this year, I shared my last bottle of 1993 with several judges after a flight of beers at a competition. That was in very good shape. No rush to try to drink yours before it goes bad, unless you can't store it at stable temps. - ----------------------------- >From: "Sebastian Padilla" <sebastianpadilla at hotmail.com> >Subject: Lambic in Chicago >I was hoping to get some help from you all on tracking down some authentic >Lambic in the Chicago area. I am going to be spending my holidays there and >was hoping that some of you might know of a Liquor store in the downtown >Chicago area that carries such a thing. There is a liquor store called Sams, that had Cantillon in the past. I presume they still carry it and there is likely other brands available. I'm afraid I can't give directions. My friend gets stuff from there for me when he gets to Chicago. There is a web page: http://www.sams-wine.com/ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 13:45:03 -0500 From: NLKANOUS at netscape.net Subject: CULT CLASSICS Hey folks, How about Bell's Eccentric Ale? It doesn't get much more cult than than. This year you even have to dress "eccentric" to get in and buy your snifter and six-pack. It's only available at the brewery once a year. Eccentric day is 12/7/01 this year. Somebody pick up some for me and let's get Ray Daniels to write about this beer in Zymurgy. nathan in madison, wi - -- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 12:17:47 -0800 From: "Craig Olson" <craigo at nas.com> Subject: Hop-back clogging Hey there beer-meisters! Finally got my 10 gallon system more or less up & running and brewed my first batch yesterday. All went well until the wort was cooled & I began transferring into the carboys. Major clogging of the hop back (1/2" copper tubing with slots cut in the bottom, connected to the discharge valve.) I finally had to sterilize my whole arm, if such a thing can be done, and reach down in there to clear the problem and had to do so through-out the process. NOT pretty! Possible solutions include: cutting lots more slots in the hop-back; putting hops in bags next time; getting a stainless steel false bottom set just above the outlet. any other suggestions? Thanks in advance for your beeriodic table of expertise! Craig Olson ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Craig Olson - Progressive folk-rock music & tribal spirit grooves http://www.CraigOlson.com ~~ http://www.mp3.com/craigolson "The same stream of life that runs through my veins runs through the world and dances in rhythmic measure." - R. Tagore ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 12:24:46 -0800 From: Marc Tiar <marc at tiar.reno.nv.us> Subject: Wort aeration With all this talk of pumps and filters and stones, I had a idea. I'm much too lazy a brewer to bother with any of that. I rely on the action of pouring the wort into the cornie keg to introduce enough oxygen for the yeast. Hasn't failed yet. Sure, we spill a little, but no big deal. I had a thought that might help both situations. If I started using a funnel to pour into the keg it would reduce spillage. And, the part I was really wondering about - what if I drilled a series of little holes in the narrowest part of the funnel? Would that help aerate the wort as it passed through? Any thoughts appreciated, but lashings on my usual lazy procedures could be kept to a minimum. Thanks. Marc Tiar Reno NV [1874.4, 276.4] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 13:28:51 -0800 From: Robert Marshall <robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com> Subject: Thanks everyone for the Wheat recipe Just a quick note to thank everyone for the overwhelming response to my request for the old American Dark Wheat recipe!! This reminded me of why I liked HBD in the first place...people helping people. Later, Robert Marshall robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com NNY Brewing Company (NO, not Northern New York, No Name Yet") Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:16:14 -0600 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: Re: Local Club Contests Tom Byrnes asks about Local Club Contests. There is NO restriction on entering competitions from any of the competitions that I've entered, organized or judged. One limitation, depending on the software used to manage the competition, is to limit to one entry per category or sub-category per person since it becomes difficult to track back to which Tradition Bock John Doe got which score for. Otherwise why limit things at all? No limit otherwise to the number of wins in any category or subcateory. Sometimes someone may receive a 1st and 2nd or 3rd in the same competition. These are with different beers however. For Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year, over 4 competitions, we assign 5 points for each 1st, 3 points for each 2nd and 1 point for each third and 5 points for each BOS (or something like this; I may have the exact point values wrong). Limit is that one person can only receive the highest score given in any subcategory. We do that to encourage multiple brewings of multiple styles so that we're rewarding the overall better brewer and not someone who hit's it lucky with one batch and wins 1st place in each of 4 competitions with the same beer. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:22:08 -0800 From: Craig MacFarlane <craigm at chemconnect.com> Subject: Re: turkey fryer and propane exhaust Oops, make that the Superb, not Superior burner. http://www.empirecomfort.com/OutdoorProducts/opsub5.asp Craig Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:31:30 -0800 From: Craig MacFarlane <craigm at chemconnect.com> Subject: Re: turkey fryer >Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:53:28 -0800 (PST) >From: Rama Roberts <rama at retro.eng.sun.com> >Subject: turkey fryer and propane exhaust > >Orchard Supply in California is selling a 42 quart pot and burner for $99 now. >It looks like its stainless steel in the ad, but I have my doubts. For $99 it's not likely stainless. >Also, is anyone using propane burners indoors, say in a garage- or are they >always outdoors? I would like to hear thoughts on fire risk and ventilation >with a hood or fan of some sort. I have a 35,000 btu superior products propane burner. I really like it. I think unless you are going to be brewing batches larger than 5 to 6 gallons, you don't really need anything larger. I'm always boiling about 15 minutes after finishing my sparge. I figure 100,000 is a waste of propane unless I'm going to do 10 gallon batches. I brew in my garage with both the big front door and the back walkthrough door open. Craig Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 08:55:50 -0800 (PST) From: Dwight Elliott <buymystock at yahoo.com> Subject: "Buck" Dear HBD members, Good morning. I am trying to find the procedure (including possible ingredients)for making the "buck" brew that is so commonly made in jails. It sounds very simple but I need to put the proper amounts of each ingredient into the container and I have no idea how much. I have LQQKed for hours on the internet for directions and it seems to be a great secret that no one wants to talk about. I know they use white bread and sugar and some type of fruit or juice but how much of each? Thanks. Dwight Elliott Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:02:13 EST From: Svlnroozls at aol.com Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest Request (December 02, 1901) In a message dated 11/30/01 8:12:27 PM, Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> writes: << I've got a bottle of Thomas Hardy Ale that was bottled in 1995 or 97 ... I'd have to go dig up the bottle to find out which. Seems I remember it being in vogue back then to cellar the stuff for a while. I keep forgetting about it. I'm curious as to whether it makes any sense to keep letting it get old or if I might as well drink it. Thoughts? I also have a pretty old bottle of Old Knucklehead Barleywine from Bridgeport Brewing. Same question, when does it become silly to keep aging it? - --Danny in West Lafayette, IN >> I have to say I'm quite sure it would make for some delectable drinking straight away or ten years from now. By way of example, I recently had opportunity to taste two different years of J.W. Lee's Harvest Ale side by side. The first was relatively new being just a year or two old and it was every bit the formidable, big, malty beverage that one would expect. The second one was from 1988 and was considerably more subtle and smooth than its younger brother. I don't know exactly how long it would take for a beer like this to attain it's velvety-smooth maturity, but at 4-6 years is probably well on its way. A Thomas Hardy's of that vintage can be considered "well-aged." I think you could drink it anytime and not be sorry. Of course, if you did, you'd have to go out and get more... Which raises an interesting question: What, in your opinions, are essential beers for any beer library? What beers should we all have in our cellars for long-term storage? What do we all reccommend? (This sort of ties in with Mr. Daniels' question about cult-faves.) I have a few, of course: Hair of the Dog magnums--Golden Rose, Adam, Fred Samichlaus '96 Rodenbach Grand Cru (This is one I keep having to buy more of!) Sierra Nevada Celebrator couple of years old Fantome Noel Du Pont Bon Voeux A few others I forget. I am curious what's in people's cellars. C.T. Davis Los Anguleez, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:29:36 -0900 From: Scott & Cherie Stihler <stihlerunits at mosquitonet.com> Subject: Need help finding recipe in old Zymurgy special issue Robert Marshall wrote: > >Today I was at the Black Diamond >Brewing, in Walnut Creek, Calif. Was >talking to a guy for a bit, and they were >trying to find a copy of a old recipe that >explained how to homebrew their >fantastic Dark Wheat (currently on tap). > >The head brewer mentioned it could be >found in the Winner's Circle book, and >also in the Zymurgy Yeast Special Issue >(not the 1999, but the earlier one). Here's the recipe from the "Yeast & Beer Special Issue", Zymurgy, v. 12, no. 4, 1989, p. 77. American Dark Wheat: 5 lbs malted wheat 4 lbs Klages pale malt 3/4 lb Munich malt (light) 1/2 lb Crystal malt (40 L) 2 oz of Chocolate malt 2 oz of Roasted barley 1 oz of Tettnanger hops (60 minutes) 1/2 oz. of Hallertaue hops (30 minutes) 1/3 oz of Hallertauer hops (finish) 1/3 oz. of Tettnanger hops (finish) 2 tsp. gypsum 1/2 tsp. Irish moss Cultered Sierra Nevada pale ale yeast 3/4 cup dextrose to prime Original specific gravity: 1.048 Terminal specific gravity: 1.013 Aged when judged (since bottling): 3 1/2 months Aproximate temperature of fermentation: 50-55 F Secondary fermenation: 2 weeks Type of fermenter: glass Brewer's specifics: Crack all grains. Dissolve gypsum in 7 1/2 gallons of soft water. Siphon 2 1/2 gallons to pot and heat to 175 . Transfer to ice chest and add malts. Stabilize a 151 F and mash for 1 1/2 hours. Heat the remaining water to 175 F and sparge. Collect wort and bring to full boil. Add 1 oz of Tettnanger - boil for 30 minutes. Add 1/2 oz of Hallertauer hops and Irish moss - boil for 30 minutes. Add finishing hops and let steep (covered) for 15 minutes. Strain to primary and force cool to 80 F. Aerate wort and pitch yeast starter. Ferment; skim as required. Rack to carboy. Cheers, Scott Stihler Fairbanks, Alaska [2873.8, 324.9] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 19:23:49 -0600 From: Brian Dube <bdube at gotgoat.com> Subject: Fermentap Hello, I am thinking about buying a Fermentap in the near future. Can anyone recommend using one of these or recommend against it? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks, Brian - -- Brian Dube Kirksville, Missouri, USA Return to table of contents
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