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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Re: Cult Classic Beers ("Bissell, Todd S")
  RE: While we're talking about Thomas Hardy Ale ("Bissell, Todd S")
  Cutting Holes in the Fridge (Kevin Elsken)
  Canadabrew ("Daniel  Beaton")
  Re: propane exhaust (Marc Tiar)
  RE: Scales (Bill Tobler)
  Weighing Grain ("David Houseman")
  Re: scales ("RJ")
  Re: Question re: Triticale Flakes ("RJ")
  bottling beer thats already carbonated ("ben yep ben")
  Turkey Fryers - HSN (mrwes)
  Weighing in on weighing grain... (Pat Babcock)
  Stout Aging Temp ("Steve Huddle")
  Bottle Cappers ("Dick and Cecilia Kuzara")
  Thomas Hardys aging and Lambic in Chicago (LJ Vitt)
  CULT CLASSICS (NLKANOUS)
  Hop-back clogging ("Craig Olson")
  Wort aeration (Marc Tiar)
  Thanks everyone for the Wheat recipe (Robert Marshall)
  Re:  Local Club Contests ("Houseman, David L")
  Re: turkey fryer and propane exhaust (Craig MacFarlane)
  Re: turkey fryer (Craig MacFarlane)
  "Buck" (Dwight Elliott)
  Re: Homebrew Digest Request (December 02, 1901) (Svlnroozls)
  Need help finding recipe in old Zymurgy special issue (Scott & Cherie Stihler)
  Fermentap (Brian Dube)


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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:36:01 -0800
From: "Bissell, Todd S" <bis9170 at home.com>
Subject: Re: Cult Classic Beers


Surprisingly, many of my favorite "cult beers" (interesting choice of
words there, Ray...!) have already been showing up in Brew Your Own
Replicator recipes, Fat Tire most notably. That having been said,
here's a few other craft/import "closet/cult" favorites of mine, that
I'd like to see a clone recipe for someday:

1) Medalla (Puerto Rico)
2) Stone Double Bastard (American Strong Ale version of Stone's
Arrogant Bastard)
3) Alesmith X Pale Ale
4) Uniboue's La Fin Du Monde, Raftman, Trois Pistoles, etc
5) Duchesse De Bourgogne (Flemish Brown Ale)

Cheers!

Todd Bissell
Imperial Beach, CA



Return to table of contents


Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 20:48:06 -0800
From: "Bissell, Todd S" <bis9170 at home.com>
Subject: RE: While we're talking about Thomas Hardy Ale

I used to think the same thing: "Just how much better will a beer get,
if the mantra of `fresher is better' is usually the case...?". That
is, until I was lucky enough to get a taste of a 10-year old Orval....
pure magic! Since that time, I've been slowly stashing away virtually
anything with live yeast and a fair amount of alcohol (Belgians,
Imperial Stouts, Old Ales, and Barleywines, mostly).

In regards to your `95 or `97 Thomas Hardy that you have had laid
down, I suspect that it's about as good as it's going to get,
relatively speaking. Many Old Ales and Barleywines of that ilk tend to
get a noticeable sherry-like tang to them past 5 years, which you may
or may not enjoy. Same goes for the Old Knucklehead. Personally, I
enjoy the "tang", especially in die-hard ales like Thomas Hardy and
J.W. Lees Harvest Ale.

So, find a good occasion to celebrate something, get some friends
together, break out the brandy snifters (or wine glasses), and pop
open the Thomas Hardy or Old Knucklehead, and judge for yourself
whether you have had it laying around too long, not enough, or "ahhhh,
just right..." :)


Cheers!

Todd Bissell
Imperial Beach, CA



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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 23:53:24 -0500
From: Kevin Elsken <k.elsken at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Cutting Holes in the Fridge

There was a recent thread concerning drilling holes in the fridge, and
the usual (valid) concerns about hitting wires or sealed system
(refrigerant) tubes.  Since I have been involved in the refrigerator
manufacturing business for almost 20 years (am I getting old...), I
thought I might offer a couple of suggestions...

I don't know why you would want to drill through the back of the fridge,
but don't. There are usually a ton of things in the way.

The sides are often free of wires and tubes, but not always.  Luckily,
the inside liner of most modern refrigerators are made of fairly thin
plastic.  Turn off the fridge, pick a spot where you might want a hole,
and take a box cutter and carefully score a small circle or square on
the plastic liner.  Then continue to go over the score lines until you
have cut completely through the plastic.  If you go slowly you will not
penetrate far through the plastic, and the odds are slim that you would
actually cut a wire.  If you can cut through a metal refrigerant tube
with a box cutter you are a stronger man than I....

Once you have cut through the plastic, you can use a screwdriver to peel
away the section you cut out.  You will then see the polyurethane foam
insulation.  You can use a screwdriver or other fairly dull implement to
dig out the insulation, until you reach the metal (outside) liner.  If
you encounter wires you may be able to push them aside.  If you find a
refrigerant tube, well, try another spot.  Once you have cleared out the
insulation it should be a trivial matter to drill out the metal liner.

Like I said, most modern fridges have plastic liners.  Side by side
refrigerators manufactured by General Electric (and sold under other
names such as Kenmore, Hotpoint, etc.) may have a metal liner.  If that
is the case, there is usually an area along the front edge that is made
of plastic.  This area is a thermal break to prevent conduction of heat
into the interior of the fridge.  You can try the above procedure in
this area, but the plastic might be a bit thicker, and the odds of
finding a wire a bit greater.

If you have an old Whirlpool fridge, it might have a porcelain on steel
liner (they quit making those in 1989).  Again, they will have a plastic
thermal break all along the inside edge of the fridge.  These snap in,
and the intrepid brewer may figure be able to snap them out, and then
dig a hole in the insulation as I described above.  Otherwise, the box
cutter trick might work.

These suggestions apply to most large refrigerators (12 to 30 cubic foot
volume) manufactured in the last 10 years or so.  As many before have
pointed out, chest freezers usually have coils wrapped around the inside
and outside liners and drilling on these is a crap shoot.  They also
typically have metal interior liners.  I am not so familiar with the
small 'dorm style' fridges, but if they have a plastic liner I would
think my idea would work.

Good luck.

Kevin Elsken
Little Boy Brewery
Recently relocated to North Strabane, PA





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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 00:55:05 -0400
From: "Daniel Beaton" <daniel.angela at ns.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Canadabrew

Any of you Canucks out there interested in joining an egroup dedicated to
brewing in Canada please feel free to sign up to ours. We are Canadabrew and
we have a good mix of advanced brewers and beginers. We do have the ablity
to help people find supplies and help in Canada.

Daniel.

When Life gives you lemons, throw em right back and wrap em around a brick




- ---
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Version: 6.0.298 / Virus Database: 161 - Release Date: 11/13/01



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Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 21:14:25 -0800
From: Marc Tiar <marc at tiar.reno.nv.us>
Subject: Re: propane exhaust


>Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:53:28 -0800 (PST)
>From: Rama Roberts <rama at retro.eng.sun.com>
>Subject: turkey fryer and propane exhaust
>
>
>Also, is anyone using propane burners indoors, say in a garage- or are they
>always outdoors? I would like to hear thoughts on fire risk and ventilation
>with a hood or fan of some sort.

I don't know how wise it is, but I've used my propane rig in the garage 
with door closed a few times with no apparent ill effects.  A buddy also 
used it indoors, in the kitchen, just fine.  Had to open the door when it 
got too warm, but that's about it.  Perhaps some more scientific knowledge 
out there....

Marc Tiar
Reno NV
[1874.4, 276.4] Apparent Rennerian





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Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 01:08:41 -0600
From: Bill Tobler <WCTobler at brazoria.net>
Subject: RE: Scales

Patrick, I bought an Escalli on e-bay a while back, and it works great.  Max
weight is about 6 lbs, and in no time I can weigh out a brew.  I brew 10 gal
batches, which require 18-32 pounds of grain, depending on the recipe.  It's
also delicate enough for hops, and you can change the  units from grams to
oz to lbs and oz easy.  It works on a 9 volt battery, and I haven't had any
problems with it for a year now.  Cheers.  And I mean that too!! :>)

Bill Tobler 
Lake Jackson, TX
(1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian



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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 07:01:20 -0500
From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net>
Subject: Weighing Grain

I have an old, used baby scale, used to weigh babies.  You know the ones that
are curved on the top to prevent fall out?  This is accurate up to about 24
lbs.  It holds about 5 lbs of grain without it spilling off the ends.  For
small quantities of grain or hops, I have an inexpensive kitchen/postal scale.
And for measuring additives to my water in grams or fractions of grams I
picked up a very old, but accurate, apothecary scale at a flea market.

Dave Houseman
SE PA



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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 07:59:11 -0500
From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net>
Subject: Re: scales

"Patrick Finerty Jr." <pjf at finerty.net> wrote:

"I'm curious what people use to weigh the grain for brewing. I have
been using a bathroom scale but it's really not that accurate. There
seem to be a couple of options on ebay for heavier-duty postal scales
that are brand new and will measure either 13# or 40# max. These are
priced around $40 to $80 (USD) depending on the max weight they can
take."

Patrick,

My preference has been a old 4# postage (side-beam) scale for grain and 1 to
100 gram (top-load) scale for hops.

Ciao,

RJ
43:30:3.298N x 71:39:9.911W
Lakes Region of NH




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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 08:07:19 -0500
From: "RJ" <wortsup at metrocast.net>
Subject: Re: Question re: Triticale Flakes

 ..Darrell: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu wrote:

"I just purchased some "organic triticale flakes" and want to experiment a
bit with them.  They look like flaked barley/ flaked wheat in appearance.

I am assuming that, as a cross between rye and wheat, they must have some
of the head retention qualities of wheat...and some of the "bite" that
rye seems to have.

I am furthermore assuming that a pound or two is about the max to add to
a grain bill...lower for lighter brews, and more for brown ales or
stouts....does that make sense ?"

Darrell,

Not knowing your batch sizes, it would make more sense to put it into a
percentage vs. pounds perspective.  That said:

I would experiement with a tried and true recipe and replace oz for oz,
first time out.   And, yes I'd agree that less would be better in a lighter
brew.

Ciao,

RJ
43:30:3.298N x 71:39:9.911W
Lakes Region of NH





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Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 01:05:24 +1100
From: "ben yep ben" <dundalinger at hotmail.com>
Subject: bottling beer thats already carbonated

Beer in bottles gets crystal clear with the sediment stuck pretty hard to 
the bottome of the bottle right???? Is this because the Carbon in the carbon 
dioxide bonds to the colloidal sized particles and causes them to 
floculate?.. If this is the case would it be possible to put your entire 
brew in a carboy, prime it, and then seal it properly so that the 
carbonation occured, and then bottle the crystal clear beer while it is 
already fizzy?.



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Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 15:01:01 +0000
From: mrwes at att.net
Subject: Turkey Fryers - HSN

My wife just happened to purchase a set of Ultrex 
cookware from HSN, BTW pretty nice stuff for the price. 
Anyhow, I was at their web site

http://www.hsn.com/content/sf/dept/cat/prod/default.asp?
sz=5&sf=QC&dept=QC026&o=nv-
QC026&fil=0&days=30&pfid=434659&sku=434659

and notice they too offer a turkey fryer -- stainless 
steel at that. Would make a great HLT or boil kettle for 
5 gallon batches. Thought a few might be interested.


Bill

Fryer, Ultrex 30-Quart Stainless Steel Turkey
Item Number: 434-659   
Fryer, Ultrex 30-Quart Stainless Steel Turkey       
Retail Value:  $190.00     
HSN Price:  $134.50     
S & H:  $7.95     
Sale:  $129.85     
You Save:  $60.15    
Off Retail Value       

Available on Flex Payments:    
1 payment of $129.854 payments of $32.46    
What is Flex Pay?      

Take the hassle out of frying your turkey with our 
Ultrex 30-Quart Stainless Steel Turkey Fryer. This 
incredible cookware (measures approx. 31 H x 14-1/2 in 
diameter) features:
Wide body design.
Cooking stand with 3 legs and bottom ring.
Auto igniter.
Long-stem thermometer.
Hose with regulator control valve.
Drain.
Cooking pot and lid.
Basket hook.
For outdoor use only.
Gas cylinder not included.
UL listed.

 
 


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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 12:27:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Weighing in on weighing grain...

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...

Pat Finerty (a fine name, if I do say so myself!) asks what we
use to weigh our grains....

I have an antique (~1930) kitchen scale and a Tanita electronic
1-lb scale that I used to use, but the antique is highly
variable, and weighing grain a pound at a time is a real grind
(no pun intended). Out in Edison NJ one year, I observed one of
my compatriots using a force gauge to measure seat efforts for
about the millionth time in my career, when it dawned on me: one
of thse relatively inexpensive devices hung from a rope, with
another loop to connect its rod to the grain bucket, and I can
measure to 100 lbs with precision to .1 pound! So, I use the
force gauge to measure base grains and most adjuncts, the Tanita
to measure hops and ounce-quantity adjucts, and I gaze upon the
antique kitchen scale, admiring it's decorative design and
remembering the grandmother from whose estate it came.

- -- 
 -
God bless America!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan         pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor           janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site                       http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page                 http://hbd.org/pbabcock
[18, 92.1] Rennerian
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
                                  from my yeast lab Saturday




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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 11:44:11 -0800
From: "Steve Huddle" <huddle007 at home.com>
Subject: Stout Aging Temp

I've had Sierra Neveda Stout clone bottled and sitting at room temp for =
6 days now carbonating. I'm going to move the cases to a cooler spot to =
age for a while. What would be an "ideal" temperature. My basement is on =
64 degrees but my garage is 50 degrees.





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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 11:26:24 -0700
From: "Dick and Cecilia Kuzara" <rkuzara at wyoming.com>
Subject: Bottle Cappers

One subject that has not been beat to death on this form (as has been done
with grain mills) is bottle cappers.  I have been using a "butterfly" style
capper and I might like to suggest a bench capper to my wife/kids for
Christmas (for me) if I knew of the preferred style.  What is everyone's
opinion on the best brand of capper?  Thanks.





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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 10:43:18 -0800 (PST)
From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com>
Subject: Thomas Hardys aging and Lambic in Chicago



>From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu>
>Subject: While we're talking about Thomas Hardy Ale
 
>I've got a bottle of Thomas Hardy Ale that was bottled in 1995 or 97 ...
>I'd have to go dig up the bottle to find out which.  Seems I remember it
>being in vogue back then to cellar the stuff for a while.  I keep
>forgetting about it.
 
>I'm curious as to whether it makes any sense to keep letting it get old
>or if I might as well drink it.  Thoughts?
 
I have several different years of Thomas Hardy's in the basement 1995-1999.
Some time this year, I shared my last bottle of 1993 with several judges after
a flight of
beers at a competition.  That was in very good shape.
 
No rush to try to drink yours before it goes bad, unless you can't store it at
stable temps.
- -----------------------------
>From: "Sebastian Padilla" <sebastianpadilla at hotmail.com>
>Subject: Lambic in Chicago
 
>I was hoping to get some help from you all on tracking down some authentic 
>Lambic in the Chicago area.  I am going to be spending my holidays there and 
>was hoping that some of you might know of a Liquor store in the downtown 
>Chicago area that carries such a thing.  
 
There is a liquor store called Sams, that had Cantillon in the past.
I presume they still carry it and there is likely other brands available.  
I'm afraid I can't give directions.  My friend gets stuff from 
there for me when he gets to Chicago.  
There is a web page: http://www.sams-wine.com/
 



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Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 13:45:03 -0500
From: NLKANOUS at netscape.net
Subject: CULT CLASSICS

Hey folks,
How about Bell's Eccentric Ale?  It doesn't
get much more cult than than.  This year you
even have to dress "eccentric" to get in and 
buy your snifter and six-pack.  It's only
available at the brewery once a year.
Eccentric day is 12/7/01 this year.
Somebody pick up some for me and let's get
Ray Daniels to write about this beer in
Zymurgy.
nathan in madison, wi
- -- 






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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 12:17:47 -0800
From: "Craig Olson" <craigo at nas.com>
Subject: Hop-back clogging

Hey there beer-meisters!

Finally got my 10 gallon system more or less up & running and brewed my
first batch yesterday.  All went well until the wort was cooled & I began
transferring into the carboys.  Major clogging of the hop back (1/2" copper
tubing with slots cut in the bottom, connected to the discharge valve.)  I
finally had to sterilize my whole arm, if such a thing can be done, and
reach down in there to clear the problem and had to do so through-out the
process.  NOT pretty!

Possible solutions include:  cutting lots more slots in the hop-back;
putting hops in bags next time; getting a stainless steel false bottom set
just above the outlet.  any other suggestions?  Thanks in advance for your
beeriodic table of expertise!

Craig Olson

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Craig Olson - Progressive folk-rock music & tribal spirit grooves
http://www.CraigOlson.com  ~~  http://www.mp3.com/craigolson
"The same stream of life that runs through my veins runs through
the world and dances in rhythmic measure." - R. Tagore
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



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Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 12:24:46 -0800
From: Marc Tiar <marc at tiar.reno.nv.us>
Subject: Wort aeration

With all this talk of pumps and filters and stones, I had a idea.  I'm much 
too lazy a brewer to bother with any of that.  I rely on the action of 
pouring the wort into the cornie keg to introduce enough oxygen for the 
yeast.  Hasn't failed yet.  Sure, we spill a little, but no big deal.

I had a thought that might help both situations.  If I started using a 
funnel to pour into the keg it would reduce spillage.  And, the part I was 
really wondering about - what if I drilled a series of little holes in the 
narrowest part of the funnel?  Would that help aerate the wort as it passed 
through?

Any thoughts appreciated, but lashings on my usual lazy procedures could be 
kept to a minimum.  Thanks.

Marc Tiar
Reno NV
[1874.4, 276.4] Apparent Rennerian



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Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 13:28:51 -0800
From: Robert Marshall <robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com>
Subject: Thanks everyone for the Wheat recipe

Just a quick note to thank everyone for the overwhelming response to my request 
for the old American Dark Wheat recipe!!

This reminded me of why I liked HBD in the first place...people helping people.

Later,



Robert Marshall
robertjm at hockeyhockeyhockey.com
NNY Brewing Company
(NO, not Northern New York, No Name Yet")



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Date: Sat, 1 Dec 2001 16:16:14 -0600 
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: Re:  Local Club Contests

Tom Byrnes asks about Local Club Contests.

There is NO restriction on entering competitions from any of the
competitions that I've entered, organized or judged.  One limitation,
depending on the software used to manage the competition, is to limit to one
entry per category or sub-category per person since it becomes difficult to
track back to which Tradition Bock John Doe got which score for.  Otherwise
why limit things at all?  No limit otherwise to the number of wins in any
category or subcateory.  Sometimes someone may receive a 1st and 2nd or 3rd
in the same competition.  These are with different beers however.  

For Delaware Valley Homebrewer of the Year, over 4 competitions, we assign 5
points for each 1st, 3 points for each 2nd and 1 point for each third and 5
points for each BOS (or something like this; I may have the exact point
values wrong).  Limit is that one person can only receive the highest score
given in any subcategory.  We do that to encourage multiple brewings of
multiple styles so that we're rewarding the overall better brewer and not
someone who hit's it lucky with one batch and wins 1st place in each of 4
competitions with the same beer.  

Dave Houseman



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Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:22:08 -0800
From: Craig MacFarlane <craigm at chemconnect.com>
Subject: Re: turkey fryer and propane exhaust 


Oops, make that the Superb, not Superior burner.

http://www.empirecomfort.com/OutdoorProducts/opsub5.asp

Craig


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Date: Sat, 01 Dec 2001 17:31:30 -0800
From: Craig MacFarlane <craigm at chemconnect.com>
Subject: Re: turkey fryer

>Date: Fri, 30 Nov 2001 09:53:28 -0800 (PST)
>From: Rama Roberts <rama at retro.eng.sun.com>
>Subject: turkey fryer and propane exhaust
>
>Orchard Supply in California is selling a 42 quart pot and burner for $99
now.
>It looks like its stainless steel in the ad, but I have my doubts.

For $99 it's not likely stainless.

>Also, is anyone using propane burners indoors, say in a garage- or are they 
>always outdoors? I would like to hear thoughts on fire risk and ventilation 
>with a hood or fan of some sort.

I have a 35,000 btu superior products propane burner.
I really like it.  I think unless you are going to be brewing
batches larger than 5 to 6 gallons, you don't really need
anything larger.   I'm always boiling about 15 minutes after
finishing my sparge.  I figure 100,000 is a waste of propane
unless I'm going to do 10 gallon batches.

I brew in my garage with both the big front door and the
back walkthrough door open. 

Craig






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Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 08:55:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Dwight Elliott <buymystock at yahoo.com>
Subject: "Buck" 

Dear HBD members, 
Good morning. I am trying to find the procedure
(including possible ingredients)for making
the "buck" brew that is so commonly made in
 jails. It sounds very simple but I need to
put the proper amounts of each ingredient 
into the container and I have no idea how 
much.
I have LQQKed for hours on the internet for
 directions and it seems to be a great secret
that no one wants to talk about. I know they
 use white bread and sugar and some type of
fruit or juice but how much of each?
Thanks. 
Dwight Elliott




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Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:02:13 EST
From: Svlnroozls at aol.com
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest Request (December 02, 1901)

In a message dated 11/30/01 8:12:27 PM, Danny Breidenbach 
<dbreiden at math.purdue.edu> writes:

<< I've got a bottle of Thomas Hardy Ale that was bottled in 1995 or 97 ...
I'd have to go dig up the bottle to find out which.  Seems I remember it
being in vogue back then to cellar the stuff for a while.  I keep
forgetting about it.

I'm curious as to whether it makes any sense to keep letting it get old
or if I might as well drink it.  Thoughts?

I also have a pretty old bottle of Old Knucklehead Barleywine from
Bridgeport Brewing.  Same question, when does it become silly to keep
aging it?

 - --Danny in West Lafayette, IN >>

I have to say I'm quite sure it would make for some delectable drinking 
straight away or ten years from now.  By way of example, I recently had 
opportunity to taste two different years of J.W. Lee's Harvest Ale side by 
side.  The first was relatively new being just a year or two old and it was 
every bit the formidable, big, malty beverage that one would expect.  The 
second one was from 1988 and was considerably more subtle and smooth than its 
younger brother.  I don't know exactly how long it would take for a beer like 
this to attain it's velvety-smooth maturity, but at 4-6 years is probably 
well on its way.  A Thomas Hardy's of that vintage can be considered 
"well-aged."  I think you could drink it anytime and not be sorry.  Of 
course, if you did, you'd have to go out and get more...
Which raises an interesting question:  What, in your opinions, are essential 
beers for any beer library?  What beers should we all have in our cellars for 
long-term storage?  What do we all reccommend?  (This sort of ties in with 
Mr. Daniels' question about cult-faves.)

I have a few, of course:
Hair of the Dog magnums--Golden Rose, Adam, Fred
Samichlaus '96
Rodenbach Grand Cru (This is one I keep having to buy more of!)
Sierra Nevada Celebrator couple of years old
Fantome Noel
Du Pont Bon Voeux
A few others I forget.

I am curious what's in people's cellars.

C.T. Davis
Los Anguleez, CA


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Date: Sun, 2 Dec 2001 15:29:36 -0900
From: Scott & Cherie Stihler <stihlerunits at mosquitonet.com>
Subject: Need help finding recipe in old Zymurgy special issue

Robert Marshall wrote:
>
>Today I was at the Black Diamond
>Brewing, in Walnut Creek, Calif. Was
>talking to a guy for a bit, and they were
>trying to find a copy of a old recipe that
>explained how to homebrew their
>fantastic Dark Wheat (currently on tap).
>
>The head brewer mentioned it could be
>found in the Winner's Circle book, and
>also in the Zymurgy Yeast Special Issue
>(not the 1999, but the earlier one).

Here's the recipe from the "Yeast & Beer Special Issue", Zymurgy, v. 12,
no. 4, 1989, p. 77.

American Dark Wheat:
5 lbs malted wheat
4 lbs Klages pale malt
3/4 lb Munich malt (light)
1/2 lb Crystal malt (40 L)
2 oz of Chocolate malt
2 oz of Roasted barley
1 oz of Tettnanger hops (60 minutes)
1/2 oz. of Hallertaue hops (30 minutes)
1/3 oz of Hallertauer hops (finish)
1/3 oz. of Tettnanger hops (finish)
2 tsp. gypsum
1/2 tsp. Irish moss
Cultered Sierra Nevada pale ale yeast
3/4 cup dextrose to prime

Original specific gravity: 1.048
Terminal specific gravity: 1.013
Aged when judged (since bottling): 3 1/2 months
Aproximate temperature of fermentation: 50-55 F
Secondary fermenation: 2 weeks
Type of fermenter: glass

Brewer's specifics:
Crack all grains. Dissolve gypsum in 7 1/2 gallons of soft water. Siphon 2
1/2 gallons to pot
and heat to 175 . Transfer to ice chest and add malts. Stabilize a 151 F
and mash for 1 1/2 hours.
Heat the remaining water to 175 F and sparge. Collect wort and bring to
full boil. Add 1 oz of Tettnanger -
boil for 30 minutes. Add 1/2 oz of Hallertauer hops and Irish moss - boil
for 30 minutes. Add finishing
hops and let steep (covered) for 15 minutes. Strain to primary and force
cool to 80 F. Aerate wort and
pitch yeast starter. Ferment; skim as required. Rack to carboy.

Cheers,

Scott Stihler
Fairbanks, Alaska
[2873.8, 324.9] Apparent Rennerian




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Date: Sun, 02 Dec 2001 19:23:49 -0600
From: Brian Dube <bdube at gotgoat.com>
Subject: Fermentap

Hello,

I am thinking about buying a Fermentap in the near future. Can anyone 
recommend using one of these or recommend against it? Any thoughts are 
appreciated.

Thanks,
Brian


- --
Brian Dube
Kirksville, Missouri, USA



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