HOMEBREW Digest #3825 Sat 29 December 2001

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  post (JohnT6020)
  keg lube ("Gregor Zellmann")
  Filters (Len Safhay)
  Re: Filters (DHinrichs)
  co2 grading ("steve lane")
  Re: counter flow cleaning and RIMs (Rob Dewhirst)
  Re: CO2 sources (Bill Tobler)
  Re: Extract choices (blutick)
  RE: counter flow cleaning and RIMs ("Angie and Reif Hammond")
  Grapefruit Beer ("Steven Parfitt")
  Something new (Marc Tiar)
  counter flow cleaning and RIMs ("Fred Kingston")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 01:05:41 EST From: JohnT6020 at aol.com Subject: post Doug Hurst asks about a water filter for Chicago [Lake Michigan] water. There is little fault to be found with Lake Michigan water except the chlorine/fluorine and a low level of PCB's. The charcoal filter should take care of this and any silt that may have been picked up in the local distribution system. Some locally sold bottled waters are nothing more than Lake Michigan water that has been filtered. There has probably been more beer produced from Lake Michigan water than from any other single source. Happy brewing in 2002. JET = John Thompson Flossmoor IL Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 10:39:27 +0100 From: "Gregor Zellmann" <gregor at blinx.de> Subject: keg lube Fellow Brewers, a few weeks ago I switched from bottling my beers to kegging them. I have four kegs and one does not hold the pressure well. Although I replaced all the rubber washers and the O-ring, there seems to be pressure leaking which results in flat beer or a empty CO2 bottle. I have read about keg lube (which I would like to try) in HBD and r.c.b. but this product seems not to be available in Europe. What is keg lube? Is it a sort of gel? What does it consist of? Are there more widely known commercial replacements in Europe that do the same job? Would Vaseline or K-Jelly work? I guess not. But I don't know. Please enlighten me! Thanks Gregor Zellmann [4247.6, 43.4] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 07:32:48 -0500 From: Len Safhay <cloozoe at optonline.net> Subject: Filters Re: Filters Doug, the filter you have in mind should be just the ticket. I use the same one (10" carbon block element) for the same reasons. It removes chlorine and vegetal contaminants from my otherwise very good tap water. Have had excellent results with it. To my knowlege, it does not remove disolved minerals. Fix, in "An Analysis of Brewing Techniques" says "Activated carbon...is the best filtaration system to remove chlorine, organics and residual particulates like sand and dust". In his comments on reverse osmosis systems, he specifically mentions that they remove some water minerals. Since he does not mention this effect with carbon filters, I infer that it doesn't exist or is negligible. Len Safhay Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 08:01:10 -0600 From: DHinrichs at Quannon.com Subject: Re: Filters Doug, carbon filters are a good tool to clean up your water for brewing. There are two basic types whole house and undersink. These two types are basically the same just the fittings to your plumbing are different, I like the whole house as I find it a little easier to maintain. The filters come in a variety of types sediment (woven thread like), carbon (taste and odor, chlorine) and others that help cleanup common chemicals from the water. You can install multiple housing to add additional filter types if needed. Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2001 09:12:27 -0600 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Filters Old Gambrinus was kind to me this year, so I am ready to order a number of brew gadgets with which to expand my brewery. One item I am considering purchasing is a water filter. I am tired of making the trip to the grocery store every brew day to pick up 8 gallons of spring water with an unknown mineral profile. The filter I'm considering is a 10" carbon block filter that the retailer claims removes all chlorine and organic flavor while filtering down to .5 micron. My question is: will this filter remove any important minerals from the water? I have a chemical analysis of Chicago city water and wouldn't want it to be drastically changed by the filter. I don't expect it to sterilize/sanitize the water only make it taste better Dave, in Minnetonka, MN Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 08:33:51 -0600 From: "steve lane" <tbirdusa at hotmail.com> Subject: co2 grading >From: "Audie Kennedy" <audie_24293 at yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: CO2 sources > However, CO2 is CO2, unless you are dealing with the >little cylinders that go into pellet guns. These may contain oil for the >BB >gun's mechanism, which would be BAD for beer. The CO2 welders use is no >different from the CO2 used in beverages. >Audie Kennedy >Wise, Va. I may be wrong on this but isn't it the cylinder that is deemed food grade and with o2 it is the cylinder that is deemed medical grade? I believe that this just means that the cylinder is clean and has never had another use, such as welding gas or a gas that may have impurities. Not that welding gas is impure, but the cylinder may be. Keep in mind, these cylinders have numerous uses for holding numerous blends of gas and may have had other gases in them before we got ahold of them, if used. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 07:17:23 -0600 From: Rob Dewhirst <rob at hairydogbrewery.com> Subject: Re: counter flow cleaning and RIMs > > >I have been sanitizing the CFC by mixing up a corny full of iodaphor and >hooking up the keg to the inlet and, under pressure, running the iodaphor >through the chiller and into the awaiting carboys. I have a splitter on the >exhaust side of the chiller and then top off the carboys. I works OK but >its a pain to hook up the hoses and the CO2. >Is anyone flushing the boiling wort through the CFC and returning it to the >boiler with a pump? While the mash is going, I boil plain water and run it through my hearts cfc. I then sacrifice the first few cups of wort at the end of the boil by running it through the cfc with no cooling water. Then I turn on water and start cooling. >When I am done with the process, I flush the CFC with cold water and let it >air dry. I've never had a problem with sanitation that can be attributed to >the CFC, but, I would like to automate this part of the process if possible. I'd like to hear other suggestions here as well. >My other questions is, "is there a need to stir the grains in the mash tun >on a RIMs?" I had 38 lbs. in the tun on Sat and all was going well. I >thought I may get a little better extraction if I give the grain bed a big >stir and let it reset. Of course, I knocked the false bottom off of its >pipe and rendered my pump full of grain. 3 buckets of grain and sweet >liquor later, I was back in business. What a mess !! I fold the grain bed a few times during the mash with a large spoon, but never within 20 mins of mashout. If your RIMS is recirculating correctly and you doughed in with no air pockets at the beginning, I don't see a reason to stir. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 09:29:52 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <WCTobler at brazoria.net> Subject: Re: CO2 sources Gordon, I have been using my Fire and Safety Shop for years with no problems. I don't think CO2 is a very friendly environment for bugs. Keeping your tank Hydro date current is just a fact of life if you want to own a tank. For a slightly higher cost and probably a monthly charge, you could rent them from your local gas supplier. I have never heard of "Food Grade" CO2, but I wouldn't put it past the FDA to require that stamp if the CO2 is consumed. I also use industrial O2 to aerate my wort, with no problems. It all comes from the same place, medical grade O2 requires certain testing whereas industrial does not. Cheers Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, Tx. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 09:58:08 -0600 From: blutick at juno.com Subject: Re: Extract choices Bob Schaffer-Neitz asked a few questions regarding his New Year brew session. It looks like a high-gravity Old Ale. >1) The recipe calls for 8 lbs of Mountmellick light extract <snip>...does anyone have >any likely candidates for substitutes? I'd use 8 lbs of whatever bulk liquid light extract your local HBS offers. If they don't offer bulk extract, use packaged. I've had good results with Alexander's, Northwest, and Muntons. >2) The recipe also calls for 7.5 lbs light DME. Would the extra >fermentability of a Laaglander extract be beneficial to this beer or would I >simply be robbing it of residual sugars and mouthfeel for a little extra >alcohol? Any other suggestions for DME? Sorry Bob, but you've got it backwards. Laaglander DME is _less_ fermentable than, say, Muntons DME. If you use 7.5 lbs of Laaglander, you'll be wondering why your FG is too high. I suggest using something other than Laaglander or "Dutch" DME in this brew. Laaglander is great stuff, but not in every recipe. >3) Since I'll be mashing some specialty grains (.5 lb crystal, .5 lb Breiss >special roast, 1 lb carapils) along with my extract, should I pay any >attention to the water chemistry or will it not be noticeable with all that >extract? Technically, you aren't mashing here as these grains have no enzymes to convert starch into sugar. In that respect your water chemistry is of little concern, but do take care that the chlorine has been removed from all of your brewing water. The starch will add some haze to the finished beer and theoretically offers nutrients for undesirable microbes later on. If a bit of haze doesn't bother you, I'd say go ahead and steep these grains according to the recipe. I've made a few brews with a starch haze, no problems with infections. Jim Layton Howe, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 12:42:52 -0500 From: "Angie and Reif Hammond" <arhammond at mediaone.net> Subject: RE: counter flow cleaning and RIMs When I start the mash, I also throw a few gallons of water into my boil kettle and bring it to a boil. I then let it run out of the ball valve on the kettle drain with the valve both half and full open to sanitize the valve (it is cleaned with a test tube brush at the end of each brew session). When drained, I cover the ball valve with foil to keep it clean. This way I don't run the risk of aerating the hot wort. Perhaps you could sanitize a counter flow the same way, just don't run cooling water through it at the same time. I don't waste this boiling hot water, it's great for killing the weeds growing between the bricks on my patio (at least in summer time)! I don't use this water for sparging since it has picked up stuff from the kettle and has a brownish tint. I believe the stuff comes off of the false bottom I use to screen out whole hops. Reif Hammond Durham, NH Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 17:40:53 -0500 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: Grapefruit Beer No, not making beer with Grapefruit, getting grapefruit flavor as a result of hops. I have had this happen twice. First beer was an IPA with Galena for bittering, Cascades for flavor, and Cascades and Sterling for aroma. After two months, there was no Grapefruit flavor. The Grapefruit flavor didn't show up till I dry hopped it with an ounce of Whitebread Goldings. It was evident within a couple of days. The second occurance was a pale ale with Nugget for Bittering, Cascades for Flavor, and Cascades and Saaz for aroma. Again, the grapefruit flavor didn't show up until I dry hopped the batch. This time with a half ounce of Centinneal. In both cases, the Grapefruit was not evident until I dry hopped. Then it showed up overnite. I've heard of Cascades throwing a Grapefruit flavor, but never heard of it showing up after dry hopping with another hop. Comments? Steven Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 18:52:24 -0800 From: Marc Tiar <marc at tiar.reno.nv.us> Subject: Something new Went to my local homebrew supply today and found something new and so intriguing I couldn't pass it up. Essential Spirits has out Sierra Nevada Bierschnaps. It's SNPA distilled to 80 proof crystal clear liquor. Haven't tasted yet, but smells like...well, like good vodka with hops and malt. $25 for a 375ml bottle here. Apparently they also produce their own version from their own beer, but this one is done with SN as a partner. See http://www.essentialspirits.com/products.asp?proid=sierra for more info. (no affiliation etc.) Marc Tiar Reno NV [1874.4, 276.4] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2001 23:01:32 -0500 From: "Fred Kingston" <fred at kingstonco.com> Subject: counter flow cleaning and RIMs "steve lane" <tbirdusa at hotmail.com> asks: "Is anyone flushing the boiling wort through the CFC and returning it to the boiler with a pump?" Well.... Yes, that too... I have a 3 tiered system. 1st. tier is a 3gal. grant with a pump mounted on the bottom. The pump then connects to my CFC. 2nd. tier is my mash tun and boiler. They both drop by gravity into the grant. 3rd. tier is the hot liquor tank. The HLT drops by gravity into the mash tun. The CFC has an 8' hose that I can redirect to any of the above vessels. Here's the process. Fill boiler with 1-2 gals. water. Drop boiling water into grant. Pump boiling water through CFC and direct hose back into boiler. 10 or 15 minutes of recirc'ing boiling water through the CFC and hoses and I ain't gotta worry about too much stuff growin' anywhere... Make sure your pump is rated for 250 degrees or more... Calculate and fill boiler with all my water needs for sparging and mashing. Pump needed mash water into mash tun and add grain to mash tun. Mash tun has it's own burner for step mashing, if that's the plan, and/or single step... While mash is taking place, I begin to bring remaining sparge water in boiler up to about 210 degrees... there's a bit of heat loss when it gets dropped into grant and pumped up to HLT... If I hit my marks, I'm generally at about 180 degrees in the HLT when I get ready to sparge. Sparge begins by dropping HLT water into mash tun and simultaneously dropping wort from tun into grant. Adjusting ball valves on both maintains a matching even flow into tun and grant. Periodically switching on pump, pumps wort from grant up the boiler. At about the 1/2 way mark, I start the burner on the boiler. After boiling, I generally recirc the finished hot wort through the pump and CFC and back into the boiler for a few minutes with the counter flow cooling water running... Then I redirect into my fermentor... at 1 or 2 degrees differential to the ground water... I then pop the fermentor into my $50 temp controlled refrigerator... Cleaning is simple... fill the boiler with water, turn on the burner, and start pumpin' hot water around the vessels... the mash tun is the vessel that comes down to dump the spent grains on the compost heap. The entire system is 3 15 gal. kegs, and a 3 gal. keg for the grant. 1 March pump rated for 250 degrees. 1 Heart's CFC... 2 burners, a multi-ring wok burner for nice soft heat on the tun, and one of those jet engine burners on the boiler... and a few feet of high grade plastic hose... This whole thing sits on a 5' long 2X4 frame, with aluminum roof flashing around the burners... One end has wheel barrow handles, and the other has casters.... when everything's empty, just pickup the one end, engage the caster... and wheel the baby back into the garage. Hope this helps.... Fred Kingston Return to table of contents
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