---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


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Contents:
  Re: Force Carbonation & Keg Cooling (John Schnupp)
  Higher gravity problems. (John_Fraser/User/NWExternal)
  RE:  How Did You Start All-Grain? ("Brian Morgan")
  New Thread- purchases we wish we hadn't made.................. ("David Craft")
  Re: How Did You Start All-Grain? (gsferg)
  Re: How Did You Start All-Grain? (Jeff Renner)
  Brewing water, etc (CMEBREW)
  Re: Benefits of an AHA Membership ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Sister Star IPA ("Chris Dodge")
  Re: Who is this guy? (Pat Babcock)
  re: How Did You Start All-Grain? (Rama Roberts)
  Re: Paulaner Hefe-Weizen Clone Recipe? (Jeff Renner)
  1st AG set-up ("chris eidson")
  How did I start all grain brewing? ("Ayotte, Roger C")
  New Home brew and Beer lovers club in South Carolina (Wil)
  Re:what's the cause ("Angie and Reif Hammond")
  AFCHBC Call for Judges (Dion Hollenbeck)
  SW Regional 1st Round Call for Judges (Dion Hollenbeck)
  Phil's 8" sparge arm ("Gene")
  Re: How Did You Start All-Grain? (Pat Babcock)


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Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2002 22:53:57 -0800 (PST)
From: John Schnupp <johnschnupp at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Force Carbonation & Keg Cooling

Dan says he likes the valve idea in the out line of a keg,
>In our last episode, "D. Butler-Ehle" <ulfin at portup.com> described 
>his stopcock arrangement on his corny gas in line. 
>
>I like it. If applied to the beer out line, he could play with his 
>stopcock (sorry) to restrict the out flow -- therefore allowing the 
>corny to stay at higher carbonation pressure while serving. Voila, 
>no more depressurizing the keg.

I'm not sure it is quite that simple.  I could be all wet but what
you really need is a device to regulate the pressure, not a flow
restrictor.

Once the tap is closed, the pressure in the line will equalize across
the partially open valve.  Now you've got keg pressure on each side of
the valve.  When you pull open the tap the pressure in the serving side
of the line will drop.  The lower pressure will cause the CO2 to come
out of solution very quickly.  Have you ever tried to tap a beer very
slowly by only opening the tap very slightly?

The best way, IMO, is to use the proper length/diameter of serving line
so that the pour rate is correct for your given carbonation level.  It
can be a really hassle to get a tap system properly balanced.  Here's how
I've done it.

Start by determining your desired carbonation level.  I have found that
I like something on the order of 2.5-2.7 volumes CO2 for most of the
beer I brew.  I realize that might be high for some styles but low for
others.
Next, determine the temperature of your fridge.  I like my beer cold but
not ice cold.  My fridge is probably running about 36-38F.  I recently
moved and bought a brand new used fridge and have not checked the temp.
I used to run my old one at 36F.
Now, check the CO2 charts.  Given my temp and carbo range the pressure
would be 10-13psi.  Basically, this means that the pressure in the keg
(the pressure of the CO2 on the beer) should be in this range so that
the proper carbo level is maintained.
Then, select the correct length of line so that the keg pressure is
dropped to nearly zero at the tap.  There are those who say that you
MUST use ONLY beer line.  I call BS on that.  Any food grade line will
work, *however* the pressure drop will likely not be the same.  In fact,
use the quoted pressure drops as guidelines only.  Manufacturing 
differences batch/batch and manufacturer/manufacturer will surely
result in different specs. 

Once everything is assembled and a properly carbonated keg is connected,
test the pour rate.  It is too slow?  If you started with lots of extra
line it probably will be.  In that case remove some of the line, but not
too much.  If the pour rate is too fast you will need to add line.  The
problem with adding line is that each splice creates turbulent flow and
this is exactly the excuse the CO2 is looking for to exit the beer.  

Compared to the information out about all the brewing related topics,
there seems to be very little about how to properly set up a tap system.
  




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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 06:49:04 -0500
From: John_Fraser/User/NWExternal at Nationwide.com
Subject: Higher gravity problems.

I have had several brews fail to ferment out to the required FG.  All are
ales
and have been pitched with a variety of yeast (California Ale, Notingham
Ale
and Edinburgh Ale).  I have been trying different yeasts but every ale I do
that
has a S.G. over about 1.060 does not ferment out to anything below 1.030!

I traditionally use extracts with specialty grains, steeping the grains for
30 minutes
at 150F, add extracts, boil for one hour, chill and pitch about a 700ml
yeast
starter mix.  I aerate the cooled wort using an aquarium pump, with HEPA
filter
and a stainless steel stone with 2 micron pores.

I have used two kinds of extract, Alexanders Light and John Bull Light.

I have had stuck IPAs and Scottish Ales.  It is getting really frustrating
and I want
to understand the problem before I begin all grain brewing, for which I
have 80% of
my new gear together.

John M. Fraser




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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 07:35:37 -0500
From: "Brian Morgan" <brian-morgan at cinci.rr.com>
Subject: RE:  How Did You Start All-Grain?

Dan Wenger asks:
"So what I'm asking the collective, is to wax historical on *your* first
all-grain system. What was your first setup? Did it work? What is your
advice for a super cheap, relatively simple, but somewhat effective AG
system?"

I started out using my 20 qt brew pot as my mash tun.  Instead of
insulation, I just put it in my oven on low and watched the temp

For a lauter tun, I bought a Phil's Phalse Bottom that fit my bottling
bucket, and rigged up a connection from the elbow to the inside of the
bucket spigot.  I just gently ladled the sparge water over the top.

My biggest problem was my brew pot wasn't really big enough for a 5 gallon
boil - so I actually did a split boil.

This was all in an apartment in Utah with a small burner electric stove!

Try it - it's not nearly as scary as it sounds.  Check out "You Wanna Mash?"
on Dan Listermann's store site -
http://www.listermann.com/Store/WannaMash.asp  - it does a good job of
making it easy.

  Brian Morgan
  Cincinnati, OH



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:24:38 -0500
From: "David Craft" <David-Craft at craftinsurance.com>
Subject: New Thread- purchases we wish we hadn't made..................

Greetings,

I participate in several other lists and usually threads (topic for
discussion) are purposely started on interesting topics when other posts
drop off.

I would like to propose this thread,  "What are some of your equipment
purchase mistakes that you wish you could take back?"

We all have them, though in hind site many of them were things we have
outgrown and don't use or need any more. They may not have been mistakes at
the time, though could we have bypassed them and saved some money.

This results of this topic might be good to post on sites frequented by new
brewers,  "Mistakes in purchases you don't have to make" or something like
that. This might also be a good topic for an article in Zymurgy.........

Mine is 5 gallon carboys.  I hardly ever use them and scramble to get the
most out of my 6 and 7 gallon carboys. I would not buy one again and wish I
had bought larger ones to begin with. I was never sure where the stated
capacity was measured from, the top of the neck, the bottom of the neck,
where any of the lines indicative of anything (not)......................A
five gallon carboy is really only good for a secondary of just 5 gallons, no
more!

That is my 2 cents, any others?

Regards,

David B. Craft
Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club
Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery
Greensboro, NC

Apparent Rennarian
478.4,152........I Think!





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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:43:58 -0500
From: gsferg at clary.gwi.net
Subject: Re: How Did You Start All-Grain?

>
> So what I'm asking the collective, is to wax historical on *your* first 
> all-grain system. What was your first setup? Did it work? What is your 
> advice for a super cheap, relatively simple, but somewhat effective AG 
> system?

My first setup consisted of a pair of 5 gallon Gott-style coolers, one fitted 
with a perforated plastic false-bottom (made from an old bucket) for 
mashing/lautering, the other being the hot liquor tank. They cost about $18 a 
piece and I fitted them with new spigots. I also made a classic copper-tubing 
immersion chiller. I'm still using this gear. My first batch was a 1/2 batch 
of Bass Ale and it turned out great. For a while I made 5-6 gallon batches 
doing split-boils in dual 3.5 gallon pots. I've since upgraded to a 34 quart 
aluminum pot and propane-fired burner.

The biggest eye-opener for me was the time it takes to brew all-grain. You can 
cook up a kit beer in an hour and a half from start to finish but an all-grain 
beer is going to take a good 5-6 hours whether it's 2 gallons or 10.

For me, the biggest challenge to all-grain brewing has been sparging- 
obtaining a good extraction ratio. More than a few times I've ended up dumping 
a pound or so of dry malt extract into my boiler to bring the wort "up to 
spec". Sometimes sparging goes like a charm and I hit my target OG. Other 
times I come up 10 points shy and wonder why :)

In any case, it's all been worth it. I make great beer and I have fun doing it.

George-

- -- 
George S. Fergusson <gsferg at clary.gwi.net>
Oracle DBA, Programmer, Humorist
Whitefield, Maine US [729.7, 79.6] Apparent Renerian
- --------------
I am a man, I can change, if I have to, I guess.





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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 08:54:19 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: How Did You Start All-Grain?

Dan Wenger <dkw at execpc.com> of Hartland, Wisconsin asks us to describe our:

>first all-grain system. What was your first setup? Did it work? What is your
>advice for a super cheap, relatively simple, but somewhat effective 
>AG  system?

In 1979 I tried a grain bag per Dave Miller's suggestion, but was 
disappointed, so I made a zapap per Charlie Papazian's directions. 
That's the bucket in a bucket, with a gazillion holes drilled in the 
bottom of the inner bucket.  I improved this over the years by adding 
foam insulation to the lid (construction foam sheet) and using a 
styrofoam shipping container from a 7-gallon carboy to insulate the 
bucket (it fits fight in).  I still wrapped the whole thing in a 
blanket.  I also caulked between the top of the outer bucket and the 
wall of the inner bucket to keep air from being pulled in during 
runoff.

For boiling I used an eight gallon black enamel steel canning kettle 
straddling two stove burners (well, electric elements).  (Even with 
heavy duty foil under the burners and across the stove top, I managed 
to discolor the stoves in three houses.  That costs beer bullets even 
though I'm the family cook.

I usually used the zapap only for lautering, not for mashing.  I'd 
mash in the boiling kettle in the preheated oven to hold temperature, 
transfering it to the stove top to boost temperatures, then 
transferring the mash to the zapap for lautering.  This risked HSA 
(hot side aeration), which actually caused a problem a couple of 
times, both with dunkle lagers.  I think the Munich malt components 
are more susceptible to oxidation.  I'd probably do more mashing in 
the zapap if I had it to do over, but a preheated oven oven really 
holds a rock solid mash temperature.

I used this for probably 15 years until I got a three vessel propane 
fired RIMS, which I love.  But I made lots of great beer in that 
system, including some decoction lagers.  Recirculation is harder 
than with a pump.

All grain is great fun and allows so much more flexibility in styles. 
However, with fresh extract, you can make great beer too.  Freshness 
can be a problem, though.

Jeff
- -- 
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943


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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:03:05 EST
From: CMEBREW at aol.com
Subject: Brewing water, etc

I wonder if the group would help me advise my readers on my webpage:  
(www.cmebrew.com)  as to the best way to remove chlorine from their water to 
brew the best tasting cup of coffee. I'm making a page of helpful tips so any 
other suggestions would be appreciated.  Charlie

Also this  morning, I mashed a light ale in a 10 gal gott cooler, but the 
manifold caused a stuck sparge (1st time ever)
I was at the bottom of a 50 lb sack of American 2 row so the only thing I can 
figure, since the grain was crushed by the supplier, there was a lot more 
"flour" involved. 
Anyway I ladled the lot into my kettled, changed manifolds, and ladled back. 
I figure this is a batch I will have to drink early, or HSA will develope. 
Any comments?


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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:21:27 -0500
From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Benefits of an AHA Membership

Glen writes a good post on both the good & bad of the AHA, and ends it with
the following:

"When I reinstate my membership it will not be for any reason, but to support
and advance the homebrewing community"

Couldn't have said it better myself, hope you do re-instate your membership,
Glen. And by the way, as one of those HBD participants that you mention as AHA
BOA members, I absolutely agree that the HBD is by far the most valuable
source of homebrewing info to me.

thanks to all of you for your fantastic posts over the years,

Mark Tumarkin
Gainesville, FL





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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:25:16 -0500
From: "Chris Dodge" <chrisdodge at hotmail.com>
Subject: Sister Star IPA

I am getting ready to brew an IPA and wanted to know if anyone has 
brewed Dave Brockington's Sister Star of the Sun IPA.  With the 3oz of
Chinook and 2 oz of Golding during the boil, this beer calculates out to
be undrinkable.

Dave Brockinton's Sister Star of the Sun recipe.

Specifics:
  a.. O.G.: 1.060-65
  b.. F.G.: 1.012
Ingredients for Five Gallons:
  a.. 13# Hugh Baird English Pale malted barley
  b.. 1/4# Hugh Baird 135L crystal malt
  c.. 1/4# Great Western malted wheat
  d.. 3 oz Chinook hops (60 minutes)
  e.. 2 oz East Kent Golding hops (15 minutes)
  f.. 2 oz imported Fuggle hops (while chilling)
  g.. 1 tsp. Irish Moss ( at 30 minute mark)
  h.. Wyeast 1028 (London Ale), pint starter.

Has anyone brewed a batch and have any comments on how it turned out?

Thanks
Chris



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 10:07:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Re: Who is this guy?

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager...

"Within the carefully nuanced flavors, the solid malt presence
is ascendant"

Snark! This guy is killing me! 

- -- 
 -
God bless America!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan         pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor           janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site                       http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page                 http://hbd.org/pbabcock
[18, 92.1] Rennerian
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
                                  from my yeast lab Saturday




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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 09:11:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Rama Roberts <rama at retro.eng.sun.com>
Subject: re: How Did You Start All-Grain?

Dan Wenger wrote: 
So what I'm asking the collective, is to wax historical on *your* first 
all-grain system. What was your first setup? Did it work? What is your 
advice for a super cheap, relatively simple, but somewhat effective AG 
system?

Mash on the stove in your brew pot. Get a big (7 gallon or so) bottling bucket 
and a false bottom. Dump your mash into the bucket and batch sparge:
http://www.paddockwood.com/guide_batch_sparging.html
http://www.bayareamashers.org/BatchSparging.htm

Cheap, simple, fairly effective. Its how I started all grain and I have no 
reason to change (yet). 

Rama Roberts
San Francisco bay area



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 13:20:51 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Paulaner Hefe-Weizen Clone Recipe?

Jodie Barthlow <jodie at ga.prestige.net> is looking for a Paulaner 
Hefe-Weizen Clone Recipe:

>Can anyone direct me to a recipe to replicate this brew? As I mentioned,
>we're just beginning and don't have a mash set up (yet, but I see that
>coming! ;) ) so a malt/partial grain recipe would suit us at this stage.

Paulaner's is one of the great weizen beers.  It's not a difficult 
style to make  well with extract.  The secret here is fresh 
wheat/barley malt extract and a good weizenbier yeast.

Canned extract can be suspect - some fresher  packaged bulk extract 
is available.  Check your local HB shop or Northern Brewer 
http://www.northernbrewer.com/specialtybeers.html or William's 
Brewing http://www.williamsbrewing.com/ (a little light in gravity at 
1.039) or http://www.stpats.com/ .  Look for hefe-weizen kits.

I think there is a new dry yeast, but I'm not sure about its 
availability or quality.  But weizenbier yeast is the key to that 
clovey, spicy flavor you are after.  Wyeast and Whitelab both make 
good ones.

Good luck.

Jeff
- -- 
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943


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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:57:35 
From: "chris eidson" <eidsonc at hotmail.com>
Subject: 1st AG set-up

Two Ag batches brewed, with the second one still fermenting.  10 gallon Gott 
cooler with Phil's Phalse Bottom and a home-made immersion chiller.  Not 
glamorous to a gadget-head and not remarkably inexpensive, but easy and 
proven effective.

Chris Eidson
Birmingham, AL



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 13:28:03 -0600
From: "Ayotte, Roger C" <rcayot at solutia.com>
Subject: How did I start all grain brewing?

D/A Wenger asks:
So what I'm asking the collective, is to wax historical on *your* first 
all-grain system. What was your first setup? Did it work? What is your 
advice for a super cheap, relatively simple, but somewhat effective AG 
system?

Well Dan, I started a very long time ago, back in the 70's we had very
little information and I was brewing mostly extract beers.  I liked them
fine but my brewing buddy wanted lighter and lighter beers.  The extract
we had available was not fresh and the lighter stuff was not really all
that light.  So we tried mashing and the first few times it was really
difficult to say how our 'partial mashes went because we never really
lautered the grain, just mashed in the kettle with a grain bag or
something.  then, I read The Complete Joy of Homebrewing by Charlie
Papazian.  He described the 'Zap-Pap' lauter tun, which I made out of
two buckets (from COSTCO laundry detergent buckets) and we partial
mashed another batch.  Well when we saw how light in color, and how
wonderful teh extract from this mashing of grain was, well we knew we
would never ever want to use malt extract again.  I used that Zap-Pap
for a couple of yeasrs until ANOTHER pioneer and entrepeneur Phil
Listerman makrketed a Phalse Bottom, I bought one for a bucket system,
then converted a Gott cooler, the rest, my friend is history!  

Roger Ayotte


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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 21:52:05 GMT
From: Wil at thebeermanstore.com
Subject: New Home brew and Beer lovers club in South Carolina

I am pleased to announce the formation of a new home brew and beers
lovers club in the Holy City of Charleston South Carolina.

On Saturday Jan 19th the first meeting of the Charleston Recreational
Amateur Brewers Society or "C.R.A.B.S" will be held in Mt. Pleasant SC


C.R.A.B.S will meet at the Beer Man starting at 3 P.M. to discuss the
club and where we would like to see it go in the future. We will also
sample some fine beers from local home brewers and a beer friendly
local distributor has promised participation. (read beer)

The C.R.A.B.S will continue to meet every third Saturday at the Beer
Man and  welcome new and old brewers and all beer lovers.
Please attend.
See web site for more info.
http://catalog.com/happydog/Libations/index.html
Wil Kolb
The Beer Man
Plaza at East Cooper
607 B Johnnie Dodds Blvd
Mt. Pleasant SC 29464
843-971-0805
Fax 843-971-3084

Wil at thebeermanstore.com
www.maltydog.com
www.thebeermanstore.com

God bless America!



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 18:05:29 -0500
From: "Angie and Reif Hammond" <arhammond at mediaone.net>
Subject: Re:what's the cause

Phil commented on the bland Heine clone ....

>Andy woods asked about his dark Heine clone...

>>It has been conditioning for 3 weeks, and like I said,
>>is very bland, similiar to a stale soda.


>Sounds like a perfect clone to me!!!!! ;<)

>phil Wilcox

Phil - supposedly it's the same as in the US, but you should try
Heineken in Amsterdam - it has hops and malt!!!!  Not bland - a decent
beer.  Only reason I tried it there was because someone else ordered a
pitcher.  I ordered the next one.

Reif Hammond
Durham, NH






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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:03:00 -0800
From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com>
Subject: AFCHBC Call for Judges

First Call For Judges!!

8th Annual America's Finest City Homebrew Competition

Main Judging:           Saturday, March 2, 2002
Supplementary Judging:  Friday, March 1, 2002

Please join us in evaulating some of the finest beer in America.
Details to follow later.  Please reserve space on your calendar for this
fine event.

For More Information Contact:

Judge Coordinator - Mark Alfaro (brdrbru at home.com)
Organizer - Randy Barnes (rbarnes at sdccd.cc.ca.us)


- --
Dion Hollenbeck  Email:  hollen at woodsprite.com
Home Page:       http://www.woodsprite.com
Brewing Page:    http://hbd.org/hollen



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 17:10:51 -0800
From: Dion Hollenbeck <hollen at woodsprite.com>
Subject: SW Regional 1st Round Call for Judges

First Call For Judges!!

American Homebrewers' Association
National Homebrew Compeititon
1st Round - Southwest Regional

Main Judging:           Friday evening, April 19, 2002
                                 Saturday, April 20, 2002
Supplementary Judging:  Friday evening, April 26, 2002
                                 Saturday, April 27, 2002

All judging in San Diego,CA.

Please join us in evaulating some of the finest beer in America.
Details to follow later.  Please reserve space on your calendar for this
fine event.

For More Information Contact:

Judge Coordinator - Dion Hollenbeck (hollen at woodsprite.com)
Organizer - Antoinette Hodges (ahodges at cts.com)


- --
Dion Hollenbeck  Email:  hollen at woodsprite.com
Home Page:       http://www.woodsprite.com
Brewing Page:    http://hbd.org/hollen



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 19:58:16 -0600
From: "Gene" <gcollins at geotec.net>
Subject: Phil's 8" sparge arm

I have a three level brew tree and I am using a 8" Phil's sparge arm. My
problem is that my sparge arm stops turning when I'm trying to sparge. I
don't know if it defective or if I just don't have enough gravity drop from
my HLT to force it to turn. I have tried to use both a short, direct piece
of tubing and one with a loop to provide a siphon fall but neither have been
successful. Are there any mathematic geniuses that can calculate how much
"head pressure" in the HLT that I need to overcome the force of friction at
the rotating joint of the sparge arm? I assume that water weighs approx. 8
lbs. a gallon, either hot or cold, and I live at about 400 feet above sea
level. Maybe Mr. Listerman can get involved in this one. I can sure use the
help.

Gene Collins
Broken Arrow, OK



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Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2002 22:15:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: Re: How Did You Start All-Grain?

Greetings, Beerlings! Take to your lager...

Ah! To be young again...

I started my AG career with a few common household items: two
big pots, a sieve, a saucepot and an oven. Malted barley was not
a common thing in those days - I really do not recall where the
malt I used came from. I do recall that I put it in the blender
and just about powdered it. This "grist" was mixed with water -
pure Dearborn Heights, MI chlorinated, un-boiled tap water -
until it was the consistency of a hearty soup, the pot with this
mixture in it was put in the oven and the temp was set to 150'F.
It was left in the oven until a spoonful of the goop tasted more
sugar than flour, and then it was strained through the sieve
into the other pot. I had absolutely no concept of recirculation
then, so the resulting murky liquid remained murky.

Here's the kicker: the volume in the second pot was topped up
until the liquid tasted somewhat less sweet, but sill had about
a third of the pot volume to go before the lip, and a packet of
Fleischmann's bread yeast was scattered on top. A thin dishtowel
was stretched over the top and secured with a chain of rubber
bands, and the whole thing was left for two weeks. The
resulting, um, "beer" was poured from the pot, through a funnel
into waiting Grolsch-style flip top bottles which had been
prepared by rinsing and sprinkling a few grains of sugar in.
This mess was stored in the basement under the stairs for
another two weeks, alongside the wines I made at the same time,
happily filling balloons with CO2. I think I ended up with six
or seven bottles of it.

The result was kind of like beer. It was palatable, lightly
carbonated and sweetish, as I recall (the wine was better, made
from Welches purple grape juice, sugar and bread yeast. It was
very much like a lambrusco - but we're dealing with the memory
of a mere sip almost thirty years ago, so I recommend not trying
to replicate this method :^). The whole project, including a
loaf of leavened and a loaf of unleavened bread, took an
honorable mention in the seventh grade science fair project I
had developed my experiment for.

>From there, an obsession was born. I attempted to ferment sweet
corn, I fermented macerated apples. I fermented orange juice. I
tried to ferment just about anything I though would ferment. I
even fermented cooked carrots! By ninth grade, I was devising
stills (never built one, though), and figuring out ways to
improve the wines I had focused on by then. And then I got a
driver's license, and didn't even think about fermentation
science again until college. A brief, whirlwind romance with a
few kit beers, fermenting in a big earthenware crock (which fell
victim to the pressures created when ones bumper attempts to
press it through the back wall of the garage). By now I had
discovered I had an allergy to the wines. That, and producing an
awesome batch of antifreeze terminated any attraction winemaking
had for me. I also dropped brewing again until about '88 when I
was reintroduced to it by some coworkers. Played with it for
about a year, then dropped it AGAIN until '94. It's stuck with
me pretty hard ever since, with brief dry spells induced by
work-related travel, laziness, disrepair in the brewery, etc.

So the next time your kid complains about having to participate
in science fairs, you can point to this story and say "See? He's
happier than a pig whistling past the butcher shop, and all
because of a science fair project!" Then again, if you want
normal kids, maybe not...

- -- 
 -
God bless America!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan         pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor           janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site                       http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page                 http://hbd.org/pbabcock
[18, 92.1] Rennerian
"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
                                  from my yeast lab Saturday





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