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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  AHA BOA ("Pat Babcock")
  Re: EZ Masher ("The Holders")
  Re: When to start All-Grain (Jeff Renner)
  My First Homebrew is Great! ("Jodie")
  dual pot boiling (Marc Sedam)
  False Bottoms /  B*b Kl**n ("Joel Plutchak")
  RE: Grain Mill Review Article in Zymurgy ("Neitzke, Arnold")
  MCAB ("Bill Smith")
  Philadelphia Area - War Of The Worts 7 (John Varady)
  re: splitting 5 gallon batch (LJ Vitt)
  re: Splitting a 5 gallon batch (Aaron Robert Lyon)
  Dough in (Danny Breidenbach)
  Reggale and Dredhop Homebrew Competition ("John J. Allison")
  EZ masher Vs. stainless steel washing machine hose ("Bret Morrow")
  If you own a pig: read this. If not <page down> (leavitdg)
  AHA Board and Ballot Information ("Paul Gatza")
  New AHA Board Chair ("Paul Gatza")
  Re: Shiner Bock Recipe (?) ("Larry Bristol")
  New Temperture Controler Chip (Al Klein)
  AHA BOA ("Pat Babcock")


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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 20:19:14 -0500
From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: AHA BOA

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager....

On behalf of the AHA Board of Advisors, I would like to offer the following
statement:

"We would like to make AHA members aware that Steve Casselman has resigned
his membership in the AHA Board of Advisors and a new chairman has been
appointed.  The AHA Board of Advisors supports Rob Moline in his role as a
Board of Advisors member and also his performance in the capacity of Board
Secretary.
As a board, we apologize that the personal conflict between these gentlemen
became public before we were able to address it in a more constructive way.
It is Board policy that conversations held via e-mail between board members
shall remain private. This policy was put in place to ensure full candor
between board members without concern for outside influences.  It is further
policy that statements regarding Board actions should be made officially and
by consensus through a Board spokesperson.  This is not incongruent with the
operating procedures of other similar organizations.
Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter."


--
-
See ya!

Pat Babcock in SE Michigan         pbabcock at hbd.org
Home Brew Digest Janitor           janitor@hbd.org
HBD Web Site                       http://hbd.org
The Home Brew Page                 http://hbd.org/pbabcock

"The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged
                                  from my yeast lab Saturday


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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 05:54:05 -0800
From: "The Holders" <zymie at charter.net>
Subject: Re: EZ Masher

Rick asks about the EZ masher in a boil kettle.

Although I have not used the EZ Masher, I do offer up an alternative with
well over 4 times the surface area: The Bazooka Screen.

See for yourself at http://www.zymico.com/bazooka/compare.jpg

The key to not clogging a screen with pellet hops is to slowly open the
valve. This will avoid hop compaction.

Wayne Holder AKA Zymie
Long Beach CA
http://www.zymico.com



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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 08:53:12 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: When to start All-Grain

"Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> writes from Bellville, TX

>Now, the only aspects of the brewing
>process that I do not control are the farming of the grains and hops,
>and malting.

So, Larry, when will you be taking up farming and malting?

Some years ago some guys in Cincinnati were determined to "make beer 
from dirt" - grow their own grain and hops, malt the grain, and (I 
think), capture brewing (or at least brewable) yeast from the air. 
Any of you Cincinnatians know what became of that project?

I have been growing hops for 6-8 years or so, and back in the 80's 
grew wheat for a few years with a farmer friend, and malted it a few 
times.  I decided I didn't want that much control, especially since I 
wasn't in control very well of the malting.

Jeff
- -- 
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at mediaone.net
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943


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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 09:09:38 -0500
From: "Jodie" <jodie at ga.prestige.net>
Subject: My First Homebrew is Great!

Success!

My first brew, a honey wheat extract with grains kit from The Home Brewery
had been in the Tap-a-Draft for two weeks last weekend, so I poured a little
in a glass and discovered it was quite drinkable. I put the CO2 cartridges
in place, iced it in a cooler, and headed off to a Super Bowl party later
that afternoon. No one drank anything else. They were amazed that this was
not only homebrew, but my first attempt as well. It was deemed not a
magnificent beer, but clean, light, and easy to drink. One neighbor we met
for the first time that night asked more than once for the opportunity to
sample subsequent batches. (Of which I have two going.) Too bad I dumped
most of the batch rather than bottle it, thinking I'd goofed up enough that
it wouldn't be any good!

Thanks to everyone on this list for all the great info and support. I was
already seriously hooked before tasting my first beer. Now there's simply no
hope for me!

Jodie Davis
north of Atlanta





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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 09:25:56 -0500
From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu>
Subject: dual pot boiling

I did the exact same thing when I first started brewing.
The solution I found easiest was to fill the first pot with
the first 1.5gal of wort, switch to the second pot for the
full 3 gallons, then return the hose to the first pot and
collect the final 1.5gal.

The benefits are two-fold:  (1)  gravities in the two pots
will be roughly the same; and (2) you can start trying to
boil the second pot while the first one is still collecting
wort.

I used to brew 5 gallon batches on an ELECTRIC stove and use
full volume boils.  Never boiled that great, although I made
some delicious beers with it.  It's amazing how good
homebrew can still be when made under very sub-optimal
conditions.  I love all of my equipment and I can make 10
gallon batches in just over 4 hours, but I know I could
still brew all-grain for about $30 of equipment.

Cheers!

- --

Marc Sedam
Chapel Hill, NC



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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 15:03:55 +0000
From: "Joel Plutchak" <plutchak at hotmail.com>
Subject: False Bottoms /  B*b Kl**n

   I dropped a few hundred dollars[*] on some new brewing equipment,
including one of those spiffy stainless mash/lauter pots with
welded spigot, thermometer well, etc.  The perforated SS false
bottom that comes with it has just a bit of space between the
edges and the wall of the pot when installed.  Does anybody who
has one of these notice a problem with grain getting underneath
and causing problems during lautering?  Any other tips for using
one of these things before I jump in and use it for the first time
(Monday, brewing a Tripel)?

[*] Somebody asked about mail-order companies: I used Beer, Beer,
and More Beer out in Concord CA. I also like The Grape & Granary
out of Akron OH, Northern Brewer up in St.Paul, and The Brewer's
Coop in Warrenville IL. NAJASCYMMV. I believe in giving good,
honest, knowledgeable businesspeople my hard-earned cash regardless
of where they live.

Steve Alexander wrote:
>A couple weeks back everyone was dumping on a beer writer who was 
>describing
>beers in the sort of fanciful analogy language used in describing wines.  I
>don't know the writer and have no opinion of his descriptive abilities...

   If you did know that writer or were familiar with his body of
work, you'd know people dump on him not for using "fanciful"
language or winespeak, but for the descriptions themselves.  Not
only does he exhibit a grasp of beer styles that's tenuous at best,
his descriptions are frequently self-contradictory and often just
plain goofy.  E.g., he sometimes describes how the taste of a beer
changes "mid-bottle."  What, does he swig it straight from the long-
neck?  (I suspect he's merely experiencing the temperature dependence
of certain flavors, so why not properly attribute the change to
that instead of where it sits in the bottle?  Would be more useful
that way.)
   Writers like Jackson who do seem to have a good understanding of
beer and beer styles use colorful descriptive language-- Jackson in
particular seems to like "black currant" and "treacle"-- without
being "dumped on" like Kl**n.  Fanciful language isn't any more
useful than straightforward descriptors if it doesn't tell a
meaningful story.
   Perhaps someday you, too, will be blessed with the gift of
That Writer's beer-a-day calendar and you'll understand why his
prose is so humorous.

Joel Plutchak
Taking neither beer nor brewing too seriously in East-central Illinois



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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 10:10:29 -0500 
From: "Neitzke, Arnold" <Arnold.Neitzke at fanucrobotics.com>
Subject: RE: Grain Mill Review Article in Zymurgy

> From: Gregg Ferlin <gferlin at yahoo.com>
 
> I recall a reveiw published in Zymurgy in the last 12
> to 18 months on grain mills.  I think it covered 4
> popular mills.  I now can't find the issue amongst my
> collection. Anybody remember it and what issue it was
> in?
> 
> I've already searched the archives, I just want to
> re-read the article before I make my purchase.
> 
> Gregg Ferlin

I just bought the mill from http://www.crankandstein.com since he is new to
the mill market, I doubt it will be in that issue.

The reasons that I bought this mill, was that it only comes with the rollers
and endplates, I had to make the base and hopper and that is exactly what I
wanted.  My other hobby is wood working and slapped together those peices in
a few minutes (from wood I already had).

The mill I got is the 2 roller adjustable and it adjusts at both ends.  What
I was using before, was a homemade mill made with maple rollers.  After a
years use, the wood was dented quit a bit from the grain, I guess I didn't
have very hard maple!  Also I did not have very good adjustability and
grains like wheat, didn't get crushed very well if at all.

Anyway my typical extraction was about 70% using the wood mill and my first
batch with this new mill (gap set to 0.045) yealded 82%!  I am not
affiliated, just a very happy customer.

AJ

PS I have a word document template that lays out the drilling and cuting for
the 5 inch model, if anyone is interested, drop me a email and I'll attach
it and send it to you.


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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 15:24:00 
From: "Bill Smith" <billsmith11 at hotmail.com>
Subject: MCAB

Joel Plutchak points out that the MCAB pages aren't ever updated. I too am 
put off by this. Last year I thought about going to the MCAB but there just 
weren't any details. I went to the Oregon Brewer's Festival instead.

I thought about going this year but again there simply isn't any 
information. No hotel details, no conference details, no nothing. So I'm 
planning my annual beer vacation in Chicago and attending the Real Ale 
Festival.

I realize that this is a volunteer effort but I have a job and a family and 
I need solid information to plan around. Would you go on a cruise ship if 
the only details were "Leaves Miami the 13th and returns 17th"? That's about 
all the info you get on the MCAB. Show me some solid planning and I will 
support this event.

Perhaps the steering committee needs a shake up, they don't seem to be able 
to see over the dash.

Bill "Billy Beer" Smith




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Date:  7 Feb 2002 10:34:04 EST
From: John Varady <rust1d at usa.net>
Subject: Philadelphia Area - War Of The Worts 7

Here's a quick reminder that the 7th Annual War Of The Worts will be taking
place at the Drafting Room in Springhouse, PA on Feb 23rd. As usual, you can
expect your homebrew to be judged by top notch BJCP judges and when your beer
wins, you can expect a top notch prize and ribbon to match.

Entries are being accepted now! Deadline for entries is Fed 17th, so you still
have plenty of time to ship or deliver your homebrew, but get on it! No time
like the present, right?

Check the website at http://www.keystonehops.org/worts/worts7.htm
for shipping and drop off locations, entry forms, labels, and directions to
the contest. Awards cermony will be held around 4:30, but you are welcome to
come early and enjoy the wonderful beer and food selection at the Drafting
Room.

JUDGES! If you've judged with us in the past, you know we host one of the best
afternoons of judging around and we expect to see you back this year. If you
haven't judged the War before, we'd love to have your pallet as a soldier in
this beery battle of the senses. Please sign up on line at
http://www.keystonehops.org/worts/judgereg.cfm

See you there,

John Varady
Glenside, PA



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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 08:16:16 -0800 (PST)
From: LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com>
Subject: re: splitting 5 gallon batch

In HBD#3859 Ronnie asked about splitting a 5 gal batch to 2 pots.

>Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2002 10:21:03 -0500 (EST)
>From: "Ronnie Anderson" <lerxst at webmages.com>
>Subject: splitting a 5 gallon batch
 

> I live on the second floor in an apartment with a gas stove. It takes
>30 minutes or more to get 3 gallons of wort to a full boil, so buying
>a 30 quart pot and trying to boil 6 gallons of wort on one burner
>will be next to impossible. Since I cannot have propane on the
>balcony, and am not going to lug 6 gallons of water up and down the
>stairs, I was planning on buying another 20 qt pot and splitting the
>wort between the two.
 
I have split 5 gal batches to boil on my electric stove.  My stove
has 2 of the larger heating elements, and can handle 2 pots with 3 gal
each.

>So, is it better to sparge into one big bucket and then split the
>batch between the two pots out of the bucket? Or is sparging directly
>from the tun to the first pot, then switching the hose to the second
>pot after the first one is full, ok?
 
I fill one half way then start the other.  Towards the end, I start heating
both kettles while still collecting in a third pot.  (Could be a plastic
bucket for this purpose).  I use the third pot to top up the other two
kettles.  

I split the hop additions evenly.



>If I go with the second option, there will be a gravity difference
>between the wort in the pots. Won't that make my hop utilization
>different between the two?
 
I guess I may not get the utilization I calculated because the pots don't
have the same gravity.  But, it's all an estimation anyway.
I think I am getting enough bitterness.

BTW, I boil outside on propane in a converted keg kettle when weather allows
it.  That usually means not winter in Minnesota.  I don't want to boil in
my detached garage because I would be steaming the inside of the garage, then
be allowing it to freeze.  I think it would ruin the building.

 - Leo Vitt
Rochester, MN





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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 12:03:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Aaron Robert Lyon <lyona at umich.edu>
Subject: re: Splitting a 5 gallon batch

Ronnie Anderson asked about splitting a 5 gallon all-grain batch...

This is the way I used to brew my 5 gal batches before I went to 10 and
got a bigger brewpot (note: the 15 gallon Polarware pot [18" diameter]
covers all four burners on many small, gas stoves) and this is the way my
student club brews now (using my old system).  Anyway, I never just filled
one pot and then the other because, just like you said, I was worried
about differences in hop utilization - I didn't know if it would balance
out in the end (probably not), I wasn't going to risk it.  Basically, I
had to decide on how anal I wanted to be about it and I decided that I
would just switch back and forth for every gallon I pulled from the
sparge.

This worked fine for me and the beers I brewed (mostly) turned out.  Once,
it even saved half my batch when a thermometer broke in one of the pots.
The bucket you suggest isn't a terrible idea, but I like to get some heat
under my wort as quickly as possible.  Besides, the fewer things your beer
touches (even if you are going to boil it), the better.

I hope this helped in some small, insignificant way.

 -A

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Aaron Lyon  -  homebrewer / research assist / Olympic rocket-sled champion
*[4.13, 118] Rennerian*

"Give me a woman who truly loves beer, and I will conquer the world."
	-Kaiser Wilhelm II (1859-1941)
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------





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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 13:04:47 -0500
From: Danny Breidenbach <dbreiden at math.purdue.edu>
Subject: Dough in

What's best, and then what works well enough for 5-gallon batches:
Add grist to water,
add water to grist?

I have to ask myself the same question overtime I mix up some thin-set
or grout ... which has been far too often in the last seven years!

- --Danny in West Lafayette, Indiana



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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 11:32:35 -0700 (MST)
From: "John J. Allison" <john at joss.ucar.edu>
Subject: Reggale and Dredhop Homebrew Competition

13th Annual Reggale and Dredhop Homebrew Competition

Hop Barley and the Alers invite you to enter the 13th Annual Reggale and
Dredhop Homebrew Competition to be held at The Falling Rock Tap House in
Denver, Colorado. The competition will take place on March 30th, 2001,
with judging from 9:00am to 5:00pm and an awards ceremony to follow at
approximately 6:00pm. Entries are to arrive between Monday, March 11th
and 5:00 pm Friday March 22th 2001. The Dredhop is AHA and BJCP sanctioned
and is an MCAB Qualifying Event.

Potential judges, stewards, and other volunteers are
encouraged to immediately contact the competition organizers via
email at dredhop at hopbarley.org. All experience levels are welcome.

Further information, including complete and detailed rules,
mail/drop-off locations, etc is available at the competition website:

http://hopbarley.org/dredhop/

You may also contact the competition director via email:
Bob Kauffman, dredhop at hopbarley.org.

- -- 
John Allison
webmaster at hopbarley.org


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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 18:46:26 
From: "Bret Morrow" <bretmorrow at hotmail.com>
Subject: EZ masher Vs. stainless steel washing machine hose

Greetings all,

I remember reading in HBD about some fellow who uses the SS mesh that wraps 
the water supply hoses for washing machines for their boiling kettle (Jeff 
R.?).  I, however, can't find this in the archives.  I have been havibg 
problems with the EZ masher clogging during draining the boiling vessel.  It 
seems to be more with seeded whole hops (sorry, no knowledge of hop 
pellets).  If some one has used this SS stuff, could you post some details 
and comments?  ..comparison to the Bazooka screen?

Thx

Bret Morrow,
Hamden, CT

(Rennerian-free zone)





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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 17:33:34 -0500 (EST)
From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu
Subject: If you own a pig: read this. If not <page down>

If you own a PartyPig:
DO NOT soak the valve in bleach for too long....If you do then the nozzle
(that apparently has the springy factor that keeps the valve closed, unless
pushed in) may disintegrate.  I am not sure why, but know that it happened to
me.  So, just let the valve mechanism sit in a weak bleach solution for
10-15 minutes...or you will sorry..

By the way, the Quoiin folks were very courteous when I pointed this out, and 
are replacing the piece for me,....

 ..Darrell
545.7,72.3 Apparent Rennerian


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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 16:06:27 -0700
From: "Paul Gatza" <paul at aob.org>
Subject: AHA Board and Ballot Information

Greetings all. I would like to update everyone on a recent transition in the
AHA Board of Advisors. Steve Casselman has resigned from the AHA Board of
Advisors and Association of Brewers Board of Directors. (The chair
automatically serves on the board of directors, as do two other AHA
advisors.) Steve has been on the AHA Board for many years and I thank him
for his service. Steve participated in the transition of this board from an
appointed board to an elected board and brought the AHA National Homebrewers
Conference to Los Angeles. In addition, Charlie Olchowski will be completing
his term as past chair and will be leaving the board that he has served on
since the 1980s. The other seats are up as the end of the terms of current
advisors. With the departure of Steve and Charlie, June 1, 2002 will mark
the first day that the entirety of the AHA Board of Advisors will be made up
representatives elected by the AHA membership.

There are five open seats for the election. Ballots from AHA members will be
accepted starting in mid-April by web, email, fax or mail. There will be a
section of www.beertown.org devoted to the election with candidate
statements. AHA members will be able to vote for up to five candidates for
the open seats. The candidates includes homebrewers who were nominated by
the membership, board or staff. The candidate slate is comprised of the
following homebrewers:

Scott Abene, Ed Busch, Steve Ford, Steve Jones, David Logsdon, Rob Moline,
Alberta Rager, Jeff Renner, Bob Rescinito and Phil Sides, Jr.

Paul Gatza
Director--American Homebrewers Association
Director--Institute for Brewing Studies
Association of Brewers
736 Pearl St., Boulder, CO, USA 80302
+1.303.447.0816 ext. 122
mailto:paul at aob.org
Join the AHA at http://www.beertown.org/AHA/ahabens.htm



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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 16:24:16 -0700
From: "Paul Gatza" <paul at aob.org>
Subject: New AHA Board Chair

Hi everyone. In my zeal to get the election information out, I neglected an
important part of my post. I would like to welcome David Houseman as the new
Chair of the AHA Board of Advisors and to the AOB Board of Directors. David
is an eastern Pennsylvania homebrewer, BJCP Grandmaster judge, frequent
contributor to the HBD and Techtalk and judge for the Great American Beer
Festival and World Beer Cup. I look forward to continue working directly
with David.

Paul Gatza
Director--American Homebrewers Association
Director--Institute for Brewing Studies
Association of Brewers
736 Pearl St., Boulder, CO, USA 80302
+1.303.447.0816 ext. 122
mailto:paul at aob.org
Join the AHA at http://www.beertown.org/AHA/ahabens.htm



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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 18:24:11 -0600
From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com>
Subject: Re: Shiner Bock Recipe (?)

Darrell Leavitt <Darrell.Leavitt at esc.edu> ponders:

>I recently drove through a good deal of Texas, and was challenged to
>attempt to brew a Shiner Bock.
>Does anyone have a good, all-grain recipefor this brew?

Darrell, I am not sure that even the Spoetzl brewery
(http://www.shiner.com/home.html) actually has a true all-grain recipe
for this brew! <grin>   I do have an extract recipe that makes a very
respectable clone.  Note that the recipe below is also available on my
web site at:
    
http://www.doubleluck.com/things/brewery/recipes/EmpireStrikesBock.html
where you can also download the corresponding ProMash recipe file.  I
will not take credit for this recipe; I got it from DeFalco's Home Beer
and Wine Supply (Houston, TX).  The recipe is available online at:
     http://www.defalcos.com/recipes4.html#TEXAS%20BOCK

- -----------------------------------------------------
Texas (Shiner) Bock --- Recipe for 5 Gallons

4.0#   Old Bavarian Munich Blend malt extract
0.5#   dark liquid malt extract
1.5#   brewery grade corn sweetener
0.5#   lager malt
0.5#   cara-vienne malt
0.5#   crystal malt (55L)

Steep the lager, cara-vienne, crystal malts in about 2 quarts water at
155F for 60 mins.  Collect runnings and rinse with 2 gallons water ay
170F.  [Sounds like a partial mash, doesn't it?  But we are not
particularly concerned with maximizing the yield from a mere 1/2 pound
mash.]  Add the extracts and corn sweetener and bring to a boil (full
volume if possible) for 60 minutes.

1.00oz   Tettnanger hops (pellets)      5.6%     full 60 mins
0.25oz   Cascade hops (whole)          5.9%     last 15 mins
0.25oz   Cascade hops (whole)          5.9%     not boiled at all

Add the last bit of Cascades at the end of boil, cover and steep for 15
minutes before cooling.

Lallemand Windsor ale yeast (dry).  Plenty of alternatives are
available (see DeFalco's recipe page).
- -----------------------------------------------------

After my previous posting about how I learned recipe formulation and
all that sort of stuff, I feel challenged to convert this recipe to
all-grain.  It does not start with a basic light unhopped malt extract,
so it is not as simple as all the others I have done.

(1) The first trick is to figure out the equivalent for "Old Bavarian
Munich Blend".  I have it on pretty good authority that this is a 50/50
blend of pale malt and light Munich malt.  So you would use 2.5# each
to get the same impact (although I question whether this will give the
same SRM).  To me, it makes sense to change the lager malt to pale
malt, just to decrease the number of different grains; you could also
change all the pale malt to lager malt, especially if lager yeast was
used.  The original beer is definitely a lager.

(2) The next trick is the equivalent for 0.5# dark malt extract.  This
ought to be little more than some pale malt and some dark crystal.  I
would guess it to be about 0.5# pale malt and 0.125# crystal malt
(might as well use the same 55L stuff that is already listed).

(3) I would leave everything else as is, including the corn sweetener. 
If I just had to change that, I would use an equivalent amount of rice.
 All you want out of this is a gravity boast; an equivalent amount of
pale (or lager) malt would give it more body than the original.

Larry Bristol
Bellville, TX
http://www.doubleluck.com




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Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2002 19:45:54 -0500
From: Al Klein <rukbat at optonline.net>
Subject: New Temperture Controler Chip

On Thu, 7 Feb 2002 00:10:23 -0500, in rec.crafts.brewing you wrote:

Dion Hollenbeck said:

>Sounds much like the Rodney Morris design using a zero crossing chip
>to drive two ICs, 8 resistors and 4 caps and a triac.  Worked for up
>to a 15 amp triac.

Back in 1978, we did a similar controller using a single comparator
and a triac for 10KW control.  Atmel hasn't come up with anything new.
(AFAIK the Hong Kong Space Museum planetarium is still functioning, 24
years later.)
- ---
[Apparent Rennerian 567.7, 95.9] 
Al - rukbat at optonline dot net


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Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2002 20:19:14 -0500
From: "Pat Babcock" <pbabcock at hbd.org>
Subject: AHA BOA

Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager....

On behalf of the AHA Board of Advisors, I would like to offer the following
statement:

"We would like to make AHA members aware that Steve Casselman has resigned
his membership in the AHA Board of Advisors and a new chairman has been
appointed.  The AHA Board of Advisors supports Rob Moline in his role as a
Board of Advisors member and also his performance in the capacity of Board
Secretary.
As a board, we apologize that the personal conflict between these gentlemen
became public before we were able to address it in a more constructive way.
It is Board policy that conversations held via e-mail between board members
shall remain private. This policy was put in place to ensure full candor
between board members without concern for outside influences.  It is further
policy that statements regarding Board actions should be made officially and
by consensus through a Board spokesperson.  This is not incongruent with the
operating procedures of other similar organizations.
Thank you for your patience and understanding in this matter."


- --
 -
Best Regards,

Patrick G. (Pat) Babcock




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