HOMEBREW Digest #3873 Sat 23 February 2002

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  RE: teflon stir bar / traceable thermometer (mark alfaro)
  Re: Dispensing from cornies to a Beer Engine (mark alfaro)
  RE:  Prickly Pear Beer (Bill Tobler)
  siphon (Darrell.Leavitt)
  Corny witha Beer Engine ("Steven Parfitt")
  BJCP style guidelines for Palm Pilot ("Mike Dixon")
  re: indoor cleaning ("Larry Maxwell")
  leftovers ("Jeremy Lenzendorf")
  Re: Dispensing from cornies to a Beer Engine ("Larry Bristol")
  Siphons and Brown Malt (David Brandt)
  Weizen / Weissbier ("R. Schaffer-Neitz")
  teflon stir bar / traceable thermometer ("Smith,Brian H")
  Announce: Reprint of Old Brewing Book (1852) (Glenn Raudins)
  SS Conical Fermetors ("Chris Dodge")
  Beer Stocks ("Tom Viemont")
  Re: Cleaning kegs ... and other stuff (davidson richard)
  re: weizen yeast (Mark Lazzaretto)
  Re: Weizen yeast and "Good Eats!" (Steven S)
  BIBIDI (Richard Foote)
  Refrigerator Fermentation ("John Gubbins")
  BJCP guidelines for Palm (Patrick Twohy)
  Bob's Tricks of the Trade... ;-) ("Bob Sutton")
  Simple Siphon Trick ("Mike Brennan")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 22:08:40 -0800 From: mark alfaro <brdrbru at home.com> Subject: RE: teflon stir bar / traceable thermometer Hi Bill, You can find the stir bar and the NIST traceable thermometer at Cole Parmer. http://www.coleparmer.com/ Regards, Mark Alfaro Chula Vista, CA Bill writes: Greets - I'm looking for a stir bar for my magnetic stirrer, and have had little luck finding one on the web. Also, I'm looking for a NIST traceable thermometer, again, available on the web. Any of you avid bookmarkers know where I can grab these little thingies? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 23:37:13 -0800 From: mark alfaro <brdrbru at home.com> Subject: Re: Dispensing from cornies to a Beer Engine Hi Rob, As far as a CO2 breather for your beer engine set up, Norgren makes just such an item. It replaces the volume of beer drawn with CO2 at atmospheric pressure. Not CAMRA compliant, but I can keep the real ales a lot longer now. I purchased mine at http://www.brewinbeagle.com nayy. I have not drawn beer with my engines any farther than about 4 feet, but I once spoke with a knowledgable lady who told me that she had modified a cornelius keg lid by installing a 1/2" SS draw tube through the lid and extending to the depth of the existing 1/4" draw tube. The tube is welded with enough of the tube sticking through the top of the lid to attach a 1/2" pump inlet hose. Prior to placing the cornie into service, the keg is vented and the lid is replaced with the sanitized, modified lid. This sort of arrangement may help with your long draw requirement. Good Luck! Regards, Mark Alfaro Chula Vista, CA > Rob Wallace writes: > > A quick question for those that may have experience dispensing > from a 5 > gallon Cornelius keg to an authentic beer engine. > I am the recent proud owner of a Homark Beer engine that works > superbly > (great eBay contact!) and am looking for advice as to how to best > dispense > 'traditional' ales from cornies. I would like to set up some form of > CO2 > breather system following natural carbonation so that the hand pumped > ale > characteristics are preserved even if I don't finish the keg in one > night > (!). My bar is on the first floor and the 50^F beer fridge is in the > basement just under the bar - I expect to pull beer from the basement > through a line of about 15 to 20 feet. What diameter beverage hose > might > you suggest? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 06:29:23 -0600 From: Bill Tobler <wctobler at sbcglobal.net> Subject: RE: Prickly Pear Beer Hey Braam, How about a recipe? We have plenty of prickly pears down here in Texas. Thanks, Bill Tobler Lake Jackson, TX (1129.7, 219.9) Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 07:55:46 -0500 From: Darrell.Leavitt at esc.edu Subject: siphon Dave mentions the Fermtech siphon. I have not used this one,but have some experience with the Quoin (PartyPig) siphon, and like it a lot. There is a center plastic tube that you position just above the trub/ yeast, then the siphon is started with either C02 or a hand pump. Seems to work real well for me...and certainly much better than either using ones lips...or filling the siphon hose with water. ...Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:21:40 -0500 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: Corny witha Beer Engine Interesting that you should post this, as I also recently got an engine off e-bay and am in the process of setting it up. I have two cornys of Boddington clone, per the recent Zymurgy article, which have just had their priming sugar added. The standard size hose is 1/2" from what I have found (and what was attached to my engine when I got it. This may be due to the distance from cask to engine in most pubs. I'm going to try some different diameters and lengths to the splice. Due to the pick up tube and barb arrangement on a corny, it will have to use some smaller diameter line till it steps up to the 1/2" hose. One option would be to remove the pickup and poppet valve assembly and make a hose fitting that would be 1/2" all the way. This would probably be the optimum but would require you to lay the keg on it's side. Brewing Beagle has some information and sells beer engines and support items (NAYAYA). They no longe sell 1/2" tubing and recommend WW Grainger (NAYAYA): http://www.brewinbeagle.com/ I am looking into building a special insulated cradle to keep my beer cool. My basement is currently 62F, and will hit 75F in the summer. Too warm for serving temp. My referidgeerator is too cold since I use it for lagering. I'm looking into designing a small peltier cooler for the corny. Ideally it would have a temp sensor to provide feedback to the power supply to control the temp. Anyone done this before? Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:24:04 -0500 From: "Mike Dixon" <mpdixon at ipass.net> Subject: BJCP style guidelines for Palm Pilot For a 60 Kb download of BJCP Styles for Palm Pilot go to http://www.ipass.net/~mpdixon/brew/Education/BeerStyle.PDB You'll need a reader like CSpotRun, but it is formatted for the Palm Screen. Cheers, Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:46:26 -0500 From: "Larry Maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net> Subject: re: indoor cleaning Steve Alexander is pondering cleanability issues. Call me anal, but perhaps the No. 1 design criterion in putting togther my brewery was cleanability, as I brew not just "indoors" but pretty much right in my condo living room. Everything except the fermenters and small items gets cleaned in place. Grain is dumped into a garbage bag from the mash tun, which is supported on a frame and pivots to dump. Hops and break in the kettle are scooped out into the garbage. The system is then cleaned each item and out to the sink drain through a garden hose. I rarely carry anything over to a sink, except small items. I couldn't wash the kettle in the sink even if I wanted to, as it's a hefty 100 L restaurant pot. Yes, there is inevitably some spillage/splashing, but I put a vinyl mat under the whole system when I brew/clean (the system is on casters), and absent some unforeseen disaster it is all I need to do. I take the fermenters (10 G cornies) into the stall shower, rest them in milk crates, and wash them with a hose from the sink. Wish I had a driveway or a backyard or even a dedicated corner of a basement, but no such luck. Someday. This is a pretty extreme solution to the cleaning problem, and probably doesn't help Steve, but I thought it might be of interest. Larry Atlanta P.S. Yes, I am single :-) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 07:53:54 -0600 From: "Jeremy Lenzendorf" <jlenzendorf at progeng.com> Subject: leftovers Hello beer gurus. I've been a longtime lurker and finally have a question worth asking. I have been doing extract brews using established recipes. After ordering ingredients I have some leftovers. I know that creating your own recipe is one of the appeals of homebrewing but I'm not sure how to get started formulating a recipe using the ingredients I have. Here's what I have: Wyeast 1098 - British Ale 1/4oz - Fuggles hops 1oz - Saaz hops 1oz - Yakima Kent Goldings hops 1oz - Norther Brewer hops 1/4-1/2lb Crystal (10L) Malt grains Questions I have: Can I do anything with these, and/or how do I go about formulating a recipe? I have ProMash to help me, but haven't really used it yet. Private emails are fine. Thanks in advance. Jeremy == Jeremy Lenzendorf jlenzendorf at progeng.com Project Engineer Progressive Engineering, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:12:39 -0600 From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> Subject: Re: Dispensing from cornies to a Beer Engine Robert S Wallace <rwallace at iastate.edu> interrogates: >I am the recent proud owner of a Homark Beer engine that works superbly >(great eBay contact!) and am looking for advice as to how to best dispense >'traditional' ales from cornies. ...<snip>... >My bar is on the first floor and the 50^F beer fridge is in the >basement just under the bar - I acquired an Angram beer engine, and faced the same dilemma. (See http://www.doubleluck.com/things/brewery/process/conditioning.html) The problem, of course, is to keep a cask conditioned ale fresh. Traditionally, a cask is stored in a cool cellar and pumped by hand up to the pub. As beer is pumped from the cask, its volume is replaced by ordinary air. But since the cask is normally consumed within a few days, there is not enough time for this exposure to oxygen to show its detrimental affect. I do not have a nice cool cellar, so like you, I use my beer serving fridge, but at least the temperature control problem is solved. I do not (necessarily) expect to consume the entire keg in short order, so I need a way to keep oxygen out of the keg. You cannot simply connect a CO2 line to the keg, even if the pressure is dramatically reduced, because all it takes is enough pressure to lift a column of beer from your keg to the beer engine, and your keg will be emptied sooner than you want. (Place mouth under beer engine faucet to prevent waste.) Commercial brew pubs can face the same problem. The secret is a gadget called an "aspirator". [I got my aspirator secondhand, so unfortunately, I cannot give you a source where you can buy one.] Simply splice the aspirator into a CO2 line (it is directional, so be sure to insert it correctly), and use a normal CO2 connection to the input side on your cornie. An aspirator is essentially a "regulator" that supplies gas at ZERO pressure (1 atmosphere). As long as there is no vacuum on the output side, it prevents gas from flowing through. When you pump some beer out of the keg, you form a partial vacuum, and the aspirator allows CO2 to flow through to equalize the pressure back to 1 atmosphere. Viola! Condition the beer in the cask traditionally, use the beer engine to pump a traditional cask conditioned ale, and keep the beer available as long as you want without exposing it to oxygen. > I expect to pull beer from the basement >through a line of about 15 to 20 feet. What diameter beverage hose might >you suggest? The beer engine should should use the same size hose as you use for your other beers that are pushed by CO2 pressure. For that distance, I would advise that you wrap the lines with insulation. Remember that once the lines leave the refrigerator, the beer within is exposed to room temperature, and is subject to spoiling. If you do not drink a beer for a few days, the first pint out may not be as wonderful as expected, so be sure drink a pint or more of each beer you have online every day! (Explain to your wife why you HAVE to do this.) >I have heard/read of using the gas-in side to pull beer from, and the >liquid-out fitting to let air into the keg... <snip>... I cannot imagine what this would accomplish, unless it is simply to reduce sediment. (You can expect the first pint or so that you pull from a keg will contain most of the sediment that you get from doing natural conditioning.) Otherwise, it sounds like a good way to increase the surface area of the beer, and if it is being exposed to oxygen, a good way to ruin it in a hurry. Stand the keg upright like normal. Oh, and don't forget to put some fresh hops in the keg before conditioning! <YUM> Larry Bristol Bellville, TX http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 06:24:05 -0800 From: David Brandt <jdlcr at flash.netdex.com> Subject: Siphons and Brown Malt Dear HBD'rs Here's my 1.5 cents worth on siphoning. I used to just use my mouth but read a few articles on this and stopped. I bought a dirt cheap 100cc (I think) syringe from my brew supply store and when I attach it to the draw tube and pull on its plunger, it draws perfectly every time. I even use it, attached to some tubing, as a beer thief. Also, some recipes call for Brown Malt. I know this can be bought, but is home toasting a pale malt the same? If so, is there a standard temp and time? Thanks, David Brandt Cloverdale, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 09:36:09 -0500 From: "R. Schaffer-Neitz" <rschaff at ptd.net> Subject: Weizen / Weissbier Hi all. The recent discussion on weizen yeasts has brought out my anal retentive side. *Weizen* means "wheat" in German and in beer terms is usually used as a short form of "hefeweizen" which is the wheat beer with yeast (hefe) floating in it brewed in southern germany. *Weissbier* is something completely different. Weiss means "white" in German and weissbier refers to a beer brewed primarily in the Berlin area with an almost soda-like carbonation. This is the beer that phillistine Germans add to lemon-lime soda to make a "radler." There, just needed to get that off my chest. I saw one too many people referring to "weizen" yeast as "weisse" and had to object. Cheers, Bob Schaffer-Neitz Northumberland, PA 375, 102.6 (apparent) Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:57:28 -0600 From: "Smith,Brian H" <bhsmith at bogmil.gylrd.com> Subject: teflon stir bar / traceable thermometer Bill, Try the VWR catalog. We use it a lot here at work. they have a lot of very resonably priced NIST traceable thermometers (the digitals are the best buy IMHO). And mor teflon spin bars than you can shake a stick at. Their web address is www.vwrsp.com . Brian Smith Gaylord Container Corp. Bogalusa, La 504/732-8475 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 10:23:14 -0500 From: Glenn Raudins <glenn at raudins.com> Subject: Announce: Reprint of Old Brewing Book (1852) Some of you are aware of my project to reprint old brewing books for the brewing community. I'd like to announce that the first book will be available soon (mid-April.) The book is "The Complete Practical Brewer", 1852, by M.L. Byrn. Not to be confused with the "Practical Brewer" from the Master Brewers Association, this book is an early American brewing book. It contains period recipes, discussions on process, and a dedicated chapter to the production of porter. The table of contents for the book is posted on my website for those interested. I am only planning to print 500 copies or less. (I am doing this to keep some of the interesting old brewing knowledge circulating, and not to be in the book business.) The book will be a hard cover bound in bonded leather. 199 pages. I am taking pre-orders for US$25.00 plus shipping. It is expected back from the printers in mid-April. For more information, or information on how to order, see: http://www.raudins.com/BrewBooks/ If you are interested in seeing other brewing and distilling books reprinted, feel free to e-mail me with your recommendations. Note: I was reluctant to post this to HBD because of the concern over people using the HBD to advertise. However, some of the readers encouraged me to do so because they felt a product announcement like this would be welcomed. I personally would like to see the limited supply of books go to HBD readers. Glenn Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 10:31:40 -0500 From: "Chris Dodge" <chrisdodge at hotmail.com> Subject: SS Conical Fermetors I am thinking of making the plunge and buying a SS Conical Fermentor. I have seen several makes and types available and all seem very similar. For those of you that use SS Conicals, which brand or features do you think are the best, which brands models would you recommend and which would you stay away from. Thanks Chris Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 09:34:00 -0600 From: "Tom Viemont" <t_viemont at hotmail.com> Subject: Beer Stocks Hey Nils, Red Hook trades on the NASDAQ under HOOK. Boston Beer trades under SAM. Didn't Warren Buffett say the first rule of investing is to buy what you know? Happy trading! Tom - ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2002 08:09:50 -0800 From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> Subject: Beer Stock Hi, I'm kind of interested in buying some stock in a brewery. I know Pyramid has a public offering, what other breweries offer stock? Thanks - ------------------------------ Best regards, Tom Viemont Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 08:34:27 -0800 (PST) From: davidson richard <ooh_rick at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Cleaning kegs ... and other stuff While reading about some of the ideas for cleaning Sankes, carboys, and such in confined quarters, I thought of something I might try in my garage. I have a large plastic sink that I wash my fermenter and carboys in, but take my sanke outside. I'm now toying with the idea of building a "cradle" that my carboys and keg will fit into. Something with a V shape on four legs to keep the round object in place. The hind legs taller to create an angle for easy drainage. The whole thing could sit tall enough to drain right into the sink. I could set it right next to the sink, scrub, rinse with a hose, etc. I could probably even get a small garden sprayer filled with iodophor to reach in the carboys and spray the insides for sanitation. Let it set a few minutes and rinse. Sound doable? Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 09:03:19 -0800 (PST) From: Mark Lazzaretto <lazyz28 at yahoo.com> Subject: re: weizen yeast Joel asks about using White Labs WLP380 Weizen IV, which supposedly gives lower banana and higher clove/phenols? You're in luck. Last summer I brewed 10 gallons of my traditional summer hefe. I used WLP380 in 5 gallons and WLP300 in the other 5 gallons. In checking my notes, the 380 had a much less noticible banana nose, and the clove was more noticible than with the 300. They were both excellent, but the 380 was more to my liking due to the banana. I don't know if this helps, but I liked the 300 better with a slice of lemon than the 380, maybe due to the already higher citrus taste in the 380. Let me know if you have specific questions and I'll check my notes and email you with answers. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 12:18:46 -0500 (EST) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Re: Weizen yeast and "Good Eats!" I used the WhiteLabs #4 a bit back. Pretty good overall, I would argue about the clove character coming through. The two batches i made with it were pretty well balanced. If anything the clove was a bit more pronounced but not overly so at least in my recipe with my technique/temps. Steven St.Laurent ::: steven at 403forbidden.net ::: 403forbidden.net [580.2, 181.4] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 12:32:37 -0500 From: Richard Foote <rfoote at mindspring.com> Subject: BIBIDI >BIBIDI ! > Brew It Bottle It Drink It > Carlos Benitez - Green Monster Brewing > Bainbridge, PA, U.S.A. I much prefer KIKIDI. Kraft It Keg It Drink It It's so much easier and a hit with Elton too! Rick Foote Whistle Pig Brewing Murrayville, GA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 11:23:26 -0700 From: "John Gubbins" <n0vse at idcomm.com> Subject: Refrigerator Fermentation I all out there in Beer Land. Home brewing reminds me of Ham radio. Folks are always experimenting in both hobbies. Perhaps that is why building your own radios is called homebrewing. But I digress before even getting started. There was a thread running through HBD a month or so ago about letting the natural yeasts and bacteria that are out there ferment a batch of beer. This made me curious so I tried it. Last Saturday I brewed a batch of English style Brown ale with some maple syrup in it. It looks good. It is fermenting normally in the carboy. But I poured my hydrometer sample into a bowl and put the bowl on top of the refrigerator. I thought since I brew fairly regularly that the house would be full of yeast. Nothing happened but evaporation for almost a week. I kept adding water to this experimental wort. I noticed a vinegar smell a couple of days ago and this morning there is a nice kreusen on top and it smells like bread. Some yeast made it into this stuff. Now I'm not going to try and drink this. I just was curious to see what would happen. I might be missing out on something though. It might be good! John Gubbins Littleton, Colorado, apparent Rennerian 1117,265.5 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 13:10:55 -0800 From: Patrick Twohy <patrick at twohy.net> Subject: BJCP guidelines for Palm Carlos asked for the BCJP guidelines in a format to add to his palm organizer. ... (http://www.hbd.org/hbd/archive/3871.html#3871-10) I created such a thing a year or so ago when I was boning up to take the BJCP exam. I posted it at PalmGear (NAYYY), where it's available for free. It also contains a tool that lets you judge beers based on the guidelines and record each judging session. This nasty URL will take you to it, or you can go to Palmgear.com and search for "BJCP". http://www.palmgear.com/software/showsoftware.cfm ?sid=11982820011015161814&prodID=13985 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 17:11:00 -0500 From: "Bob Sutton" <Bob at homebrew.com> Subject: Bob's Tricks of the Trade... ;-) Re: siphoning... Ralph discovered those colored rubber caps for carboys with the 2 openings on top... and then blew out a lung starting the siphon... just kiddin'. As Dennis Miller once said... the oral habits are the hardest to break. Instead of blowing, use your aquarium pump - generally most units will deliver sufficient pressure to lift the beer 12-15 inches. Once the siphon flow begins, disconnect the pump, and let the room air enter the carboy as it drains. If you're worried about contamination, use a sterilizing-grade filter downstream from the pump. If you're concerned about oxidation, some use CO2 - not me. I'm more concerned about blasting my carboy (and me ) to bits. I simply don't trust my pressure regulator to reliably control at such low pressure. This could be a problem with an aquarium pump as well - particularly if yours was built to SeaWorld specs. A safer, simpler approach I've adopted is to affix my racking cane at the outlet end of the siphon tubing. I just fill the tubing with iodophor solution until I'm ready to siphon, then I drain out about 12 inches worth of tubing - so that the inlet tubing doesn't dump iodophor solution into the carboy. Once I insert the inlet tubing below the carboy's surface, I divert the racking cane into a drain pot until the slug of cleaning solution is gone, then I insert the racking cane into my keg (or carboy), and let 'er rip. This is simply too easy... Re: carboy carriers... I stumbled into this trick when I found out how difficult it was to lower and raise a full carboy into a chest freezer... When I bought my boil pot, it came with one of those perforated metal baskets used for lobster boils, turkey frying etc.. Much to my surprise my carboys actually fit INSIDE the basket. Although I can't fully use the basket's swing handle, the perforations along with the upper basket lip provide a good grip and lifting surface - and the basket protects the carboy from the inevitable bumps that happen while I transport it... try it... you'll like it... Cheers from the SC foothills... Bob Fruit Fly Brewhaus Yesterdays' Technology Today Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2002 19:09:06 -0600 From: "Mike Brennan" <brewdude at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Simple Siphon Trick This was mention in BYO magazine and is very simple but effective. Simply sanitize a spare air lock along with your siphon hose, the "s" shaped ones work best. Insert the bottom end into your hose and suck on the airlock rather than the hose itself. This will get the beer flowing and then simply remove the airlock once the liquid gets halfway down the hose. Its a two hand operation, one to hold the hose and the other to hold the airlock. In two tries you will be an expert. I do wash and sanitize my hands before doing it. Return to table of contents
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