HOMEBREW Digest #3890 Fri 15 March 2002

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  re: beer tv special (Robert Marshall)
  2002 Maltose Falcons Mayfaire (Drew Beechum)
  Pre Fermentation Oxidization ("Phil Yates")
  Cap Report pt II ("Drew Avis")
  RE: Beer TV Special ("Hedglin, Nils A")
  propane fittings ("Chuck Dougherty")
  RE: malt sack volume? ("Houseman, David L")
  Breiss Roasted Barley in Stout (Lonzo McLaughlin)
  Grain storage ("Brian Schar")
  Update on Weizen Yeast from Bottle (Andrew Nix)
  Using pH test paper:  How???  plus water chemistry.... (Daniel Chisholm)
  Ashville NC area brewhouses and LHBS (Brad Wright)
  RE: malt sack volume? (Pat Babcock)
  Brew Stands ("Charles R. Stewart")
  zinc gluconate (Dave Kerr)
  Beer Tour of England ("Hedglin, Nils A")
  Entire Butt Porter (Steven S)
  Zymurgy correction ("Steve Alexander")
  Fruity Beer (Caryl Hornberger)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 13 Mar 2002 23:22:43 -0800 (PST) From: Robert Marshall <robertjm1 at yahoo.com> Subject: re: beer tv special Well, I just went to the Alton Brown website ad they have it listed as being on tonight. Glad I didn't bother tuning in! Here's the URL: http://www.altonbrown.com/pages/asseentv.html Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 01:10:07 -0800 (PST) From: Drew Beechum <Drew.Beechum at disney.com> Subject: 2002 Maltose Falcons Mayfaire Fellow Brewers, The Maltose Falcons' Mayfaire returns for the (approximately) 18th year and once again we are one of the qualifying competitions for the Sierra Nevada Homebrewer of the year. This year's guidelines have been updated and are available on our website. Entries may be registered on line or you may use standard bottle labels. All standard competition rules apply. All entries are welcome and all judges are free to join us. - -- Drew Beechum - ----------------------- 2002 Mayfaire Homebrew Competition (AHA and BJCP Sanctioned) Qualifier for Sierra Nevada Homebrewer Of The Year Pre-register and information at http://www.maltosefalcons.com/ Entry Deadline: Entries (3 Bottles) April 1st - April 11th, 2002 Entry Fee: $6.00 per entry, check or money order only, payable to the Maltose Falcons. No Cash will be accepted! Drop or send prepaid entries (3 Bottles) to: 2002 Mayfaire Competition c/o The Home Wine, Beer and Cheese Making Shop 22836 Ventura Blvd. #2 Woodland Hills, CA 91364 OR : 2002 Mayfaire Competition c/o Culver City Home Brewing Supply 4358 1/2 Sepulveda Blvd Culver City, CA 90230 Styles: Please use the 2002 Falcons' Style Guidelines available on our site. Judging: Saturday, April 27, 2002, St Martins Church, Reseda, CA Awards Ceremony: At the Falcons' Mayfaire Festival, Saturday, May 18, Best of Show: "The Bird," a statuette of the Maltose Falcon "Hashell Dammit" First, Second, and Third Place ribbons may be awarded in each beer style Class, Subject to the decisions of the judges. All judges decisions are final. For further information, or entry forms, contact Drew Beechum, Competition Organizer Email: drewbage1847 at yahoo.com Want to Judge? Contact Bruce Brode at bruceb at cpandb.com Want to Steward? (It's easier than judging!) Contact Pam Aitchison (pam at aitchison.org) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:35:27 +1100 From: "Phil Yates" <yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Pre Fermentation Oxidization Okay, where is everybody? The only person to pipe up and give me an answer about the moisture content of bottled CO2 was the devil from the north himself, Mr Graham Sanders. This he did off line. After his public berating he has decided to now live under a rock. At least the crocs aren't likely to find him there. I reckon I should be able to command a fee for being the only person on earth who can shut Graham up. Bit like a bounty hunter. Given my perilous employment situation, I might just start asking money for my talents where once I delighted in offering them for nothing. But enough of this, I have another question. We have argued in here to the death about whether or not HSA existed, or more to the point, whether or not it mattered. I'm sure we all agree that oxidization of our beer post fermentation is a serious no no. But I'm curious about this point: Most of us go out of our way to get as much oxygen as we can into our wort just prior to dumping in our yeast. What happens if we don't dump in our yeast, or not immediately? What happens if we run our wort from the kettle, heavily aerate it and put it in a sealed container free from infection? What happens if we leave it there for a good month before throwing in our yeast? My bet would be that the end product would have serious oxidization flavours. Whilst talking about oxidization flavours, it's interesting to note that the Oxford Dictionary (well at least the one I have) makes mention of "make or become rusty" in its description of the word oxidize. Now I reckon that is a very good description of resulting oxidization flavours in beer. Rusty or metallic. I was waiting for Steve Alexander to produce his new Beer Dictionary to see how he described it, but I reckon the Oxford has taken the wind out of his sails. Comments please? And I'm looking for answers from people who live other than under a rock. I will though accept answers from the guy under the rock if he wants to make comment. Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:30:19 -0500 From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com> Subject: Cap Report pt II Brewers, two months ago I reported on my disastrous CAP brew session (http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/3845.html). Last weekend I kegged the RauchCAP, and last night I poured a glass. And a second! It was not just bearable and non-toxic - it was actually *good*. Only a distant hint of smoke, barely perceceptable, and no kitty litter flavour or aroma to speak of. The grain bill is not typical, but certainly CAP-ish (15% polenta, 10% wheat, 75% two row) and with a definite "corny" character (perhaps it's just the keg). 30 IBUs from Cascade & Ultra. To be honest, it's lighter and more "swill-like" than what I'm used to, but I can get used to it! This beer was brewed with a DCL dried lager yeast: 34/70. It is not listed on the DCL web site, but is listed on the Crosby-Baker site (stuck at the say much, eh? I find it to be very clean, almost watery, no diacetyl, no sulfur. What I'm amazed at is the lack of off-flavours from racking (by accident) into a filthy carboy. 20 grams seems to have been enough to out-ferment the nasties that were certainly there in droves. And with a standard lager fermentation schedule it achieved excellent attenuation (OG 1.055, FG 1.010). A single datapoint, but enough to convince me that 34/70 is worth using again. Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario ~ http://www.strangebrew.ca Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 14:34:38 -0800 From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> Subject: RE: Beer TV Special In HBD #3889 Eric R Lande gets rude & mean in his response: >I watched the Good Eats show tonight (with a couple of Double Bocks) at >9pm Eastern time (which for those of you in trailer parks whom this show >was aimed at coincides with 6pm Pacific time) and it had less than >nothing to do with beer. The title of the show was something like "Chuck >for Chuck" and featured Alton Brown making a pot roast in a trailer >(complete with aluminum foil satalite dish) in a trailer park. Now, >while I have nothing against trailer parks, I had guests over to watch >the beer/brewing episode and, guess what, it never happened. In fact, I >can't even find a show with that name any where on the schedule on the >FoodTv. com web site. Thanks Nils! Let me know when Mickey Mouse is >going to the moon. >Eric Lande >Doylestown, PA Eric, I am quite shocked by the tone of your response. I am barely containing my anger. You may have been joking, but it certainly didn't seem like it. If you were, you need to do a better job at indicating it in the future. I too was disappointed that Good Eats last night was a rerun from Season 4. But, since you looked for the episode on FoodTV.Com, I'm sure you noticed it only shows the Good Eats schedule for less than a week at a time. So, you should have been able to extrapolated that I got my information from some other source since I posted my original message about a month ago. Here's where the information came from: http://www.goodeatsfanpage.com/EpisodeInfo/Season5Info.htm. At the bottom of the page is the information on the beer episode. In the time it took you to write your "response", you could have posted a message on the Good Eats Fan Forum to see if anyone else knew when the episode was going to be aired. Or maybe done a web search & found either the website listed above, or the AltonBrown.Com website where the beer episode is listed in his Season 5 shows (none of the shows have airdates though). The HomeBrew Digest is inappropriate for this type of personal attack. I would have been happy to respond to your issues directly if you had the courtesy to send your message to me only. But instead you decided to not only respond in a mean-spirited message, but post it to a public forum, so I feel obligated to defend myself. It's unfortunate that this ruined your gathering, but at least it gave you the opportunity to get together with friend & drink beer. If you were planning a whole gathering around this episode, you might have wanted to verify when it was going to be on. I apologize to anyone else that my information may have inconvenienced. I have posted messages on various Good Eats sites to determine when the episode will be aired and may post an update if I find out when it is. Thank you, Nils Hedglin Sacramento, CA PS-By the way, as evidenced by these following links, Mickey has already been to the moon. http://www.collectorsconnection.com/images1/mickey28.jpg http://www.art.com/asp/sp.asp?PD=10005358&RFID=463353 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 13:03:58 -0600 From: "Chuck Dougherty" <jdougherty at wlj.com> Subject: propane fittings Greetings all-- My brewing system includes two burners (turkey fryer type), which I have up until now ran from two separate propane tanks using the hose/high-pressure regulator that came with each burner. I would really like to hook both burners up to a single tank, but don't know what fitting(s) I need. I know many of you have crossed this bridge before, and was hoping someone could tell me what I need and where I can buy it. Thanks in advance. Chuck Dougherty Little Rock, AR [694.8, 224.6] Rennerian (Apparent) Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:55:50 -0500 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: malt sack volume? Bill Tobler spent $35.80 for a 13 gal container to hold grain; somewhat less since he bought four. I spent $5.80 for 13 (maybe 15) gallon rubbermaid containers and lids at K-Mart. Each holds a great deal more grain than one 55lb sack; probably at least two. They were on sale but the regular price was not a whole lot more. But then they only had them in green... Do check out K-Mart, Target, Wal-Mart, etc. as these stores seem to have all sorts of useful stuff for brewing that were intended for other things... Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 04:46:42 -0800 (PST) From: Lonzo McLaughlin <lonkelm at yahoo.com> Subject: Breiss Roasted Barley in Stout Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com writes ..... -Briess' "roasted barley" is NOT the grain you want to -use when making a stout... -Briess' roasted barley is indeed heavily roasted, but -if you use a pound of it in a 5 gallon batch you'll -roasty-bitter-acidic beer (this might sound good, but -I didn't care for it - unfortunately I made two -batches of it before I discovered the culprit). Just -off the top of my head, I think Briess' roasted barley -is around 300L, and the "real" roasted barleys are -over 500L. This has been my primary roasted barley for the stouts I've made over the last couple of years. What other roasted barley does this forum recommend? I've too noticed a very acidic taste with this barley. On beers with less amounts in the grain bill it isn't soo bad but with a Dry Stout it can be a taste that is not liked. Please suggest some readily available roasted barleys that make a good dry stout. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:25:06 -0800 From: "Brian Schar" <schar at vimedical.com> Subject: Grain storage At your local pet food store, you can get various sizes of a thing called a Vittles Vault, which comes in a variety of sizes corresponding to big bags of pet food. It's made of heavy plastic & has a wide screw-on lid that seats tightly. I store cat food in one, and have never had a problem with spoilage or insect infestation, even when faced with an ant invasion one year that got into darn near everything else. I would think you could store grain in one of these pretty safely. Brian Schar Menlo Park, CA Rennerian calculator is off-line! Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 17:53:38 -0500 From: Andrew Nix <anix at vt.edu> Subject: Update on Weizen Yeast from Bottle In case anyone is interested, I wanted to post an update to my experiment in stepping up weizen yeast from a bottle. First of all, I got great support from a company called MBI (Manneken-Brussel Imports, Inc) that imports Schneider Weisse, which is the beer I was trying to step the yeast up from. I asked them about whether Schneider used bottom fermenting yeast in the bottle and they researched the info and got the info for me that they use the same top fermenting yeast in the bottle as in the primary. As for the starter. It sat for about 2-3 days without any activity at 60F. I put about a quart of 1.045 wort on it. I left for the weekend and when I returned it had a small layer of krausen. I swirled the bottle and it went ape and a layer of foam and krausen almost 2" thick formed. It's been going pretty strong for the last few days and smells wonderful. I even asked my wife to smell it and tell me what it smelled like. Her response was "It smells like bananas." "Good answer," I said. I am going to take the safe route though and brew a 13 gallon batch of wheat beer using single decoction. I will pitch White Labs Hefe IV on 5 gallons, a buddy is pitching a wit yeast on 5 gallons and I'll pitch the stepped up Schneider Weisse on 3 gallons, in case it turns out bad (I'm a wuss). I'll report the results. Drewmeister Andrew Nix Department of Mechanical Engineering Virginia Tech anix at vt.edu http://www.vt.edu:10021/A/anix Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 10:04:02 -0400 From: Daniel Chisholm <dmc at nbnet.nb.ca> Subject: Using pH test paper: How??? plus water chemistry.... So I finally got some pH test paper, and figured that it might improve my brewing. It seems like I can't figure out how to get a decent reading with the stuff (!). Either that or my water chemsistry is pathological... I have Precision Labs Inc (of West Chester, OH 45069) test strips, part no. 4662, for testing pH range 4.6-6.2. On the label inside the bottle it says "for best results follow closely directions on carton". Problem #1: I only bought the vial of strips, I have not seen the carton it came in. The colour changes from 4.6 to 6.2 are subtle, to say the least. Approximately a light tan at 4.6 to a medium brown at 6.2. To a guy who feels that about sixteen colours is all one really need to get through life with, and thinks that "taupe" is more likely to be a bird or a plane than a colour, well you can probably see my problem.... First question: does pH paper care what temperature the liquid is at? I know that pH meters' half cells are temperature sensitive, and must either be temperature compensated or have the sample at room temperature. Is this the case with the test paper's chemistry also? Second question: my pH seemed to be stubbornly high for last night's brew. Untreated water read off the scale high (not surprising). My mash, made with untreated water, after half an hour also read high off the scale (I think. Or was it 6.2? Could it be 5.8? Certainly not lower than that, but it could be anywhere from 5.8 to more than 6.2). Adding 8 grams of CaCl2 to the mash and stirring valiantly yielded.... no change. Adding 1/4 tsp 10% phosphoric acid yielded.... no change. Adding 1 tsp. 88 % lactic acid yielded.... no change. Mash consisted of 9 kg Canada Malting 2-row, and 20 litres water. This morning the sweet wort measured perhaps 5.5, perhaps 5.5 (I ran out of time last night, and set the wort outside to cool). I sure hope it drops at least one notch after the brew. What is my water chemistry, you ask? Short answer is that I don't have an analysis. Long answer is this: I'm guessing that it is very soft, or at least of zero temporary hardness. I base this on the observation that there is no precipitation of CaCO3 when water is boiled. Secondly, the well that the water comes from is not very deep, and has enormous capacity (>40 gpm). I assume that this means it may be in a sand vein, and perhaps therefore not have had the chance to dissolve many minerals. Until I fork over the $80-$100 it will take to have a proper water analysis done, I won't know for sure. I did do a little stovetop chemistry experiment, in which I boiled a saucepan of tap water plus a "smidge" of powdered gypsum (from some drywall scrap, actually ;-). This seemed to give some precipitation - so I'm guessing I have some carbonate present (I *think* I didn't overdo the gypsum and use more than could be dissolved, but I cannot say for sure) I've become increasingly suspicious that my mash and wort pH might be too high (and so I jumped at the opportunity to buy some pH test strips to use while I wait for a pH meter). My efficiencies seem to consistently be in the 65% area (I think all my procedures are good, yet this seems low compared to what everyone else seems to be able to achieve). And my finishing gravities are almost always a bit higher than they ought to be, especially with lager (Wyeast 2278) yeast (e.g. a CAP from 1051 down to 1022). Figuring that my water is very soft (because of the lack of boiling deposits) I've all along been avoiding brewing a stout or porter until I get a pH meter. Now I figure that my next beer ought to be exactly one of those - maybe they will be able to knock my pH paper readings down in to the range I'm looking for? I have some CaCO3 on hand, so providing that the pH paper is actually working (or I figure out how to use it!!), I should be fine. I tried doing a web search for instructions on using pH paper, and also looked for a web site for Precision Labs. Quite surprisingly, I was unable to turn up anything for either. Thanks for any help that is offered, - -- - Daniel Fredericton, NB Canada Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 07:54:16 -0800 (PST) From: Brad Wright <ten_jed at yahoo.com> Subject: Ashville NC area brewhouses and LHBS Hey folks, Can anyone suggest brewhouses or LHBS to go to in the Ashville, Lake Lure, Boone area? I will be up there and would like to check things out. Please respond offlist. Thanks Brad Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 18:09:28 -0500 (EST) From: Pat Babcock <pbabcock at hbd.org> Subject: RE: malt sack volume? Greetings, Beerlings! Take me to your lager.. Sorry - been focusing on other things lately (like keeping the HBD server up... ;^) I put one bag of grain into approximately two-and-a-half 5 gallon paint pails. Somewhere around 12-13 gallons would seem to be the volume. (If I weren't so damned lazy, I'd go out and weigh a gallon of grain for you. But I am :^) - -- - God bless America! Pat Babcock in SE Michigan pbabcock at hbd.org Home Brew Digest Janitor janitor@hbd.org HBD Web Site http://hbd.org The Home Brew Page http://hbd.org/pbabcock [18, 92.1] Rennerian "The monster's back, isn't it?" - Kim Babcock after I emerged from my yeast lab Saturday Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 09:11:56 -0500 From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com> Subject: Brew Stands On Wed, 13 Mar 2002, Bjorn of Waterloo (Bjoern.Thegeby at cec.eu.int)inquired about brew stand dimensions: >> I am in the process of designing a brew stand, but am in short supply of engineering friends. I have decided to go for a 2 1/2 tier system with liquor tank low, mash tun on top, draining into a kettle at the "mezzanine" level. If you did not get that, it is the general design of the bigger "Beer, Beer and more Beer" systems. I have seen a number of systems on the web, but they seldom give rack profile dimensions. My gut feeling would be to go with square profiles for the risers and "L" profiles for the horizontals framing the vessels (to keep them in place). The bottom horizontal frame would be either square or rectangular, with two fixed feet and two vertically adjustable. The maximum width/length per vessel would be 22 inches. I would like the system to be as light as possible, while capable of carrying a load of 25 gallons+grain + weight of vessel. Am I total off track here, and if not, what size profiles can I get away with?>> Bjorn - While combing local scrapyards and drawing up elaborate plans for a three tiered system myself, I stumbled into a rolling restaurant rack (see http://www.costco.com/frameset.asp?trg=product%2Easp&catid=114&subid=858&hie rid=1090&prdid=10002618&log= - you may have to paste the link back together). This turned out to be cheaper, easier, and probably better than the units I was getting ready to build. First, the unit is rated for 600 lb., more than enough for your 25 gal. batches. The rack is also re-configurable and can be re-arranged according to your needs. It's also easy to run tubing and wiring along the racks. Also, since it is stored in the house, it is much more acceptable to SWMBO as it is chrome plated and can be wheeled out of sight. I can also organize most of my brew gear on it with plastic storage boxes to keep things tidy. Finally, the wheels allow me to roll the whole unit out the back door for fair-weather brewing. You can see it in use at http://Charles.TheStewarts.com. Chip Stewart Gaithersburg, Maryland, USA Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com Pursuant to United States Code, Title 47, Chapter 5, Subchapter II, Section 227, any and all unsolicited commercial e-mail (spam) sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee of US$500.00. The sending or forwarding of such e-mail constitutes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:22:39 -0800 (PST) From: Dave Kerr <dave_kerr2001 at yahoo.com> Subject: zinc gluconate Wouldn't chucking a couple of pennies into the kettle serve the same purpose while preventing boilovers as well? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 08:51:57 -0800 From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com> Subject: Beer Tour of England Hi all, In case anyone's interested, there's a beer tour of England on May 9-19. You can get the information at: http://www.beertrips.com/trips/london_york2002.html. It sounds like a fun trip & I've already got one good review of a previous trip from a HBD member. Thanks, Nils Hedglin Sacramento, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 20:19:21 -0500 (EST) From: Steven S <steven at 403forbidden.net> Subject: Entire Butt Porter I picked up a bottle of Entire Butt Porter the other day to try (along with Catillion Lambic!) and not only does it have the grains used on the side (14 of em!) but also is bottle conditioned. There is a substantial yeast sediment at the bottom. I like the characteristics of this porter and would like to harvest the yeast. Is the yeast in the bottle the same yeast used for primary fermentation? _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Steven St.Laurent 403forbidden.net steven at 403forbidden.net [580.2, 181.4] Rennerian _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 19:17:58 -0500 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: Zymurgy correction Somehow the two figures referenced in my recent Zymurgy article "Boiling Your Mash into a Decoction" (March/April 2002, pp42) did not appear - tho' a mutant cross of the two did. The correct figures can be found at: http://steve-alexander.home.att.net/ . Apologies for any confusion. -Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 14 Mar 2002 21:40:34 -0500 From: Caryl Hornberger <chornberger10 at comcast.net> Subject: Fruity Beer Anyone ever try adding cherry flavored "Juicy Juice" concentrate ( 100% Juice of Apple, Grape, Cherry ) to their beer to give it a cherry flavor? I did and now my beer smells like bad rot. I didn't boil the juice first, but I did sterilize the outside lip of the can before pouring it in. Caryl Hornberger I just love wasting a full day's work..... Return to table of contents
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