HOMEBREW Digest #3908 Sat 06 April 2002

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  re:Schlitz Porter Recipe ("Wayne Holder")
  Longshot Brown Ale (SpamZapper)
  Beer in Italy (Rosalba e Massimo)
  Re: Grain Mill Questions (john_findlay)
  Clear Wheat Beers ("Peter Fantasia")
  You gotta love Rye Beers . . . ("Dave Galloway")
  Re: Saving Yeast (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com>
  CCF filling (Jim Busch)
  Re: Pilsner plans (Jeff Renner)
  saving yeast (Marc Sedam)
  Grain mills (Mark Kempisty)
  Hazelnut Flavo(u)r ("Charles R. Stewart")
  Re: Saving Yeast ("Doug Hurst")
  Conical chilling ("Steve Heffner")
  CCF Chiller (I/T) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com>
  Hot Pepper Beer ("Colby Fry")
  UK-Homebrew (Arnaud VIEZ)
  Hot Pepper Beer ("Colby Fry")
  Russian Imperial (Russ.Hobaugh)
  Dark DME and 4 lb cans.......... ("David Craft")
  Clear Weizen ("Mike Brennan")
  Re: Clear Wheat Beers ("Michael J. Westcott")
  radiator chilling ("chris eidson")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 4 Apr 2002 21:37:48 -0800 From: "Wayne Holder" <zymie at charter.net> Subject: re:Schlitz Porter Recipe Skot "Iggy" Rat writes: "This beer has not been brewed for a long time. Anybody have any information? Thanks -Skotrat" Sorry Skot, all I have is the kewl "Schlitz Dark" tap handle I scored on Ebay. Wayne Holder AKA Zymie Long Beach CA http://www.zymico.com Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 04 Apr 2002 23:41:47 -0700 From: SpamZapper <SpamZapper at comcast.net> Subject: Longshot Brown Ale Doug & Vicki Parker used the little bottles of coffee flavoring. You can typically find them in the coffee section of about any grocery store. They are about 2 fl oz in size, are plastic, have a red label and red lid (label has gold [I think] trim). I don't remember the brandname. What they are REALLY made for is to add a few drops to a cup of coffee. If memory serves, they couldn't use a brand name because of copyright/trademark/et al issues. In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria. - German Proverb Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 10:09:43 +0200 From: Rosalba e Massimo <rosamax at split.it> Subject: Beer in Italy Hi HBDers! >From: Kevin Elsken <k.elsken at worldnet.att.net> >Subject: Thanks and a few very Random Thoughts... >[...] my connection was at 4:30 pm on Alitalia, on the way to Milan (side question: Italian food is wonderful. Why can't they make a good beer? [...]). We do... but they are a bit hard to find. :-) Apart from a couple of good or acceptable industrial beers (say, for example, Moretti La Rossa) in Italy there are now more than 70 microbreweries (actually, most are brewpubs). Of them, a dozen make good beer, and a handful of them brew excellent beer. Last year we held here in Italy the annual EBCU conference (EBCU is the association of all the European Beer consumer associations, such as CAMRA and others). We toured the people (coming from all over Europe) to visit four micros in NW Italy and they were surprised of the quality of beers. The same beers of these micros have been featured with success at GBBF 2000 and 2001. The best italian brewery is Le Baladin, a brewpub brewing a wide range of belgian- and UK-inspired (but personalized) ales. They bottle 4 or 5 of these ales - actually they are quite specializing in bottle-conditioning - and they are available in a few beer or gourmet shops (two are in Milan) and in an online beershop. Very good beers are also brewed in a brewpub in Milan (good ales) and in another one not far from Milan (best lagers in Italy). Both are strictly brewpubs. At least two other micros in the north of Italy make very good beers - these two are not brewpubs, the beers are available in a few bar and restaurants, shops and in the online beershop. You can find infos and addresses in my site: http://www.maxbeer.org (follow the upper-left link to the english version) BTW, a few of the "older" HBDers may remember that a few years ago I posted a few messages to the list. Maybe it is time for a quick update about homebrewing in Italy... if it is of interest, I can post in the next few days... ciao max Massimo Faraggi, Genova, Italy Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 12:50:03 +0200 From: john_findlay at non.agilent.com Subject: Re: Grain Mill Questions For 'normal' home brewing (is there such a thing?)... 1) Potential for motorisation is helpful but not vital. 2) Adjustability is useful, but it doesn't have to be easy or quick as once you've got it set up you'll probably not need to tweak it much at all. 3) Large diameter rollers are better than smaller, but there's a limit to how big you can go in the home-brew environment. 4) The knurl on the rollers should be just enough to drag the grain through. If the knurl is too coarse, the height of the points is so great that the grain gets spiked and cut rather than properly crushed. I get the feeling that some mill manufacturers go for a coarser knurl to compensate for the fact that there is not enough depth of grain in the hopper to help drive the grain through effectively. Hence ... 5) A decent sized(depth!)hopper is good. Small ones are irritating. Your challenge is to compare these suggestions with the available mills and choose the best for your budget. I won't make any recommendations in public! It's a good idea to have a set of automotive feeler guages to measure the gap when you're setting up, but remember that you will detecting the tip-to-tip gap. My mill has a fairly coarse knurl, and you have to set it to a narrower gap (measured by the feelers) than the text-books would normally recommend to get a decent crush/efficiency. I will be replacing it when I've fixed my leaking mash tun and got the rest of the plot going again. Good Luck John Findlay Edinburgh, Scotland. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 07:53:10 -0500 From: "Peter Fantasia" <fantasiapeter at hotmail.com> Subject: Clear Wheat Beers Dennis asks why his wheat beers are clear. Without knowing your mashing schedule it's hard to say but I've found a single step infusion mash to work well with wheat beers. Be careful you're not slipping into the protein rest temp range.Check your thermometer as well. I had one that was 8 degrees off. If you don't do a mash out and you transfer to the kettle at a lower temp than 140 F you can get excessive protein breakdown. Protein rests and extended boils should all be reserved for undermodified malt. Cheers, Pete Fantasia NJ Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 08:15:11 -0500 From: "Dave Galloway" <Galloway at gtcom.net> Subject: You gotta love Rye Beers . . . Greetings to the Collective, All this talk of Rye beers has gotten me going. I LOVE rye beers. Now I just need to find my back up recipe disks. A system crash necessitated re-formatting the hard drive (Side Bar: It never to early to back up essential files, but it helps if you can find the damn backup disks). Summer is upon us and rye makes a wonderful addition to any "light" summer ale. I quantify "light" as any beer with an OG under 1.045 or so. It adds a whole 'nother dimension to the flavor profile of whatever you are crafting. I think it would be outstanding in a big "spiced" Winter Warmer but haven't tried it yet. Life has a funny way of interfering with my brewing schedule. Here is a recipe for a 5 gallon brew. 2 lbs Rye Malt 3 lbs Marris Otter 1 lbs Belgian Munich 1/2 lbs caravienne 1 lbs wheat malt 3 lbs light LME 2 Heaping TBS Irish Moss 1oz East Kent Goldings 2oz Fuggles OG is about 1.050 and the IBU's are ballparked at around 30. Adjust accordingly. Dough in the grains in about three gallons of 155 degree water and mash for an hour or so. Sparge grains w/ another 2 gallons of 170 degree water. Mix in LME and bring to a boil. After the hot break add the EKG. At 30 minutes add 1 oz Fuggles and the Irish Moss. Add the other oz at knockout. Crash cool and pitch Wyeast 1333 stepped up to a 32 oz starter or 1 pkg Danstar "Windsor" or "London" dried yeast stepped up to a 32 oz starter. I'm immensely fond of the entire line of the Safeale yeasts as well. After primary rack to a secondary. Fermentation should take about 2 weeks or so. Bottle or keg in your usual manner. This stuff is awesome in a keg. I have another recipe for a Rye/Wheat beer that is flavored w/ a little chocolate malt. I call it Turbo-Wheat and it makes for my favorite summer quaff . . . Regards, Dave Galloway Coon Bottom Brewery Chattahoochee, FL Rennarian coordinates? We don't need no stinkin' coordinates . . . "Let them call me a rebel and I welcome it, I feel no concern from it; but I should suffer the misery of demons were I to make a whore of my soul." - --Thomas Paine Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 09:01:47 -0500 From: "Barrett, Bob (R.A.)" <rbarrett at ford.com> Subject: Re: Saving Yeast Nils Hedglin asks: Is there a way to save the yeast left over after a batch is done? Nils, I'm sure there are many ways and some may be better than others. I save yeast all the time. In fact more likely than not when I rack from the primary to the 2ndary I will save the yeast. The procedure I use is to leave just enough fermented beer in the primary after racking to loosen the yeast cake from the bottom of the fermenter. I use carboys as fermenters. Then my brewing partner, aka my wife Kim, takes a new ziploc 1 gal. freezer bag and opens it up so I can dump the liquified slurry from the carboy into the bag. Kim then will get most of the air out of the bag and seal it. We keep the slurry in the fridge until we are ready to make a starter for our next batch. There is even a place on the bag you can use to label the bag so you know what kind of slurry it is and the date you collected it. We use a freezer bag because it is much stronger than the normal ziploc storage bags. We don't want the bag to split open in the fridge. A few things about our procedure. I learned this from a fellow home brewer, Chris Frey, about 3 years ago. Since then I have found that many other home brewers use the same procedure to save yeast. The ziploc bags do not need to be sanitized as they come sanitized from the factory. Just make sure the bag comes out of the box completely sealed . We always make a starter when reusing the saved yeast. Some home brewers do not. In either case we start by taking the bag out of the fridge and let it warm up at least two hours before we're ready to use it. The way we get the slurry out of the ziploc bag is to first sanitize the out side of the bag by submerging the bottom half of the bag in sanitizer (we use Star-San). Also, sanitize a pair of scissors. When you are ready to "let the yeast out of the bag", hold the bag by one of the top corners. This will cause the slurry to collect at one of the bottom corners. Take your sanitized scissors and cut about 1/2 inch off the other bottom corner. Then pour the slurry out of the hole into your starter container or fermenter, however you decide to use it. Like I said there are many ways to save yeast slurry, but this way has worked for us. I have used the slurry after saving it for up to 2 months with no problems. I'm sure there are others that have saved it longer than that. Hope this helps. We make the beer we drink!!! Bob Barrett Ann Arbor, Mi (2.8, 103.6) Rennerian. Ya, he's close. Real close. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, Apr 5 2002 9:15:48 GMT-0500 From: Jim Busch <jim at victorybeer.com> Subject: CCF filling <Now, I know 'FER' a fact that Jim would rather <fill any vessel from the bottom up...so, he yeah, but I chose not to use a pump on the wort cast off stage, instead I use gravity from my brewhouse above the cellar. Second port is easy to clean and also allows me to pump O2 into the tank with a stone (one of these days Ill place it inline...). This also saved some costs of more fittings and valves. BTW, Spunding rules! Jim Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 09:25:42 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Pilsner plans Dave Riedel <RiedelD at pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca> writes from Victoria, Canada >I plan to make a batch of Czech Pils mid-month. I will be >using Beeston's Chariot Pils for the base malt. Does anyone >have any thoughts on a good mash schedule? My initial plan >was to mash in at 104F, pull a decoction, convert it at 158F, >meanwhile raise the main mash to 140F (hold for about 15') >then use the single decoction to raise the temperature from >140F to around 152F for conversion. However, I'm not certain >that decocting is worth the effort. > >Anyone have a good Pils method? You haven't mentioned how your are going to raise your decoction from 104 to 158 for conversion, or the main mash from 104 to 140. Hot water infusion? RIMS? Regardless, you are going to overshoot your 152F target when you add your decoction. If you pull the thickest third of your mash and return it at boiling temp, you will get a rise of about 1/3 the temperature difference. Since the difference between 140 and 212 is 72F, then it would rise ~24F to ~164F. (As high as this is, it is a temperature I have seen reported used in Europe). Since we are assured by the manufacturers that modern malt doesn't require a decoction for conversion, and some of the temperatures (in the 120-135 F range) may actually be detrimental if held for long, I'd say skip it. How about a pseudo-decoction? I got this idea from some of Hubert Hanghofer's (whose participation here is missed) posts, although I can't remember if he actually recommended this exact method. Mash in half your grains and water at somewhere around 146F (for a well attenuated beer like a German pils) to 153 (for a less attenuated one, like a Czech pils). Then after 20-30 minutes, bring this to a boil. After a suitable period, add enough cold water to bring to a strike temperature and add the rest of your malt to get your second rest temperature, which might be the same as your first or higher, depending on style (as high as 158F for less attenuation). Rest this until conversion is complete, then proceed as usual. This method gives you the possible flavor benefits of decoction (which has been discussed ad nauseam here before) without worrying about steps. There are plenty of excess enzymes in the second half of the malt to convert the starches liberated by the boil of the first half. Jeff - -- ***Please note my new address*** Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 10:27:59 -0500 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: saving yeast Nils, Welcome to the Cheap Brewers of America Club (CBAC). As your President, I have tried many ways to get the total cost per batch down to infinitesimal levels. Yeast can be one of the biggest costs per batch. But don't despair! The CBAC's crack research team has been brewing cheaply for 10 years and our collaboration with the PrimeTabs Yeast Abuse Research Center allows us to offer you help. 1) if you're going to brew within a month of draining off the "sludge" then you simply need to store the yeast in a sanitized container. Dump it in your beer when the wort is ready and you're good to go. 2) If you are not going to brew that quickly, then dump a half pint of yeast sludge in a sanitized quart Ball jar. Add a pint of fresh wort and let it ferment out COMPLETELY. Store in a fridge until you're ready to use the yeast. Dump it directly in your batch if used within two months. 3) If you still haven't brewed with the yeast after two months then you must perform the ritual acts of #2, decant (in the sink or in your mouth) the fermented wort off the yeast sediment, add a quart of fresh wort, shake like hell, and add to your batch when you see fermentation start in the jar. Yeast can be revived this way for upwards of six months. But the original yeast sludge must be stored in a refrigerator for the whole time. Of course in order for any of this to work you must first add the ritual hops to your mash. Sprinkle across the top of your mash while circling the tun counterclockwise and "dropping" PrimeTabs all the while. Your yeast will then understand how serious you are about saving their souls from the evil sewer. Cheerios! - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC "Brewing like one cheap bastard since 1992" Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 10:44:17 -0500 From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com> Subject: Grain mills Jon, FIRE IN THE HOLE! I recently bought a Barley Crusher (http://www.barleycrusher.com/) and after a small modification seems to be working fine. (I have only done one batch with it so far.) The price was right were I wanted it to be. It has a huge hopper and is adjustable on both ends. It may be readily motorized with a drill but are cautioned against a belt and pulley arrangement. It is attached to a board to fit over the typical bottling bucket. It has a huge hopper but unlike the JSP and Valley Mill (the only others I am familiar with) it does not funnel the grain down to a narrow opening above the rollers but lets the full 6 inch or so gap pull grain in. This makes it just a little harder to crank since more grain is going through for every revolution. The JSP and Valley restrict the amount of grain admitted to the rollers and although it does spread out on them, it probably does not go all the way across the gap. Therefore, they crank a little easier. On the other hand you can crush a bit faster with the BC At the bottom corners of the hopper there were relatively large gaps where the pieces come together that allowed uncrushed and partially crushed grain to get by the rollers. Narrowing the gap did not help and I was not impressed with my test crushes. I took some metal duct sealing tape and closed up these gaps putting slivers of tape on the top and bottom such that none of the adhesive was exposed. You only need a wrench, Phillips screwdriver and 30 seconds to take the hopper off. This cured the problem and I got a great crush. So much so that I may open the gap back up to 0.045 (factory default). The batch had 79% efficiency. The BC is adjustable on both ends of the rollers and is a piece of cake. You need a screwdriver to loosen the set screw, but the adjuster knobs have just the right amount of tension so there is little if any backlash when you tight the set screw. The knobs are indexed to show you 0.045 but you need feeler gauges to see where you are otherwise. Since I already have a set, that is not a problem. Attaching a drill to the BC is easy and the drive shaft was designed with that in mind. No adapters are needed. Its going to take a couple of additional batches for me to get a better feel for the BC but overall I think it will match the JSP and Valley in terms of crush quality. I want to bring it over to a co-worker who has a JSP and compare the knurling on the rollers. I am also toying with the idea of making a restrictor plate like the JSP to limit the rate that the grain hits the rollers. I don't know if this will affect crush quality. I'll try to remember to let you know. - -- Take care, Mark Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 10:43:52 -0500 From: "Charles R. Stewart" <Charles at TheStewarts.com> Subject: Hazelnut Flavo(u)r Why not just add some Frangelico hazelnut liqueur, either pre-fermentation or in the glass as you pour? Chip Stewart Charles at TheStewarts.com http://Charles.TheStewarts.com Pursuant to United States Code, Title 47, chapter 5, Subchapter II, Section 227, any and all unsolicited commercial e-mail (spam) sent to this address is subject to a download and archival fee of US$500.00. The sending or forwarding of such e-mail constitutes acceptance of these terms. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 10:32:47 -0600 From: "Doug Hurst" <DougH at theshowdept.com> Subject: Re: Saving Yeast Nils, You can save yeast from a previous batch. Check out the instructions for Yeast Washing at Wyeast's website: http://www.wyeastlab.com/hbrew/hbyewash.htm They claim you can store your yeast for up to one month in the refrigerator. I'd bet it would last a while longer, though it might get sluggish. Doug Hurst Chicago, IL [215, 264.5] Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 6 Apr 2002 11:15:58 -0600 From: "Steve Heffner" <potatopotato at earthlink.net> Subject: Conical chilling Hey now, I'm building a chamber to control temps for fermenting / lagering. I built a styrofoam box large enough to hold a conical or a couple of cornies with a plywood floor to spread the weight. I am going to pipe in cold air from an old frig (that one of my neighbors graciously donated to the cause) via flexible dryer hoses, running through the sides of the frig and chamber. The supply hose will have a muffin fan pulling into the chamber, and the return hose will have a flap valve to stop flow when the fan is off. Then I'll have another fan inside the chamber to circulate the cool air. These are brushless computer fans, and they are small, like an inch or two, and only cost a few bucks from the American Science Center. The small size will slow the cooling rate so that the thermostat that drives the fans can react before freezing the chamber. The thermostat will regulate chamber temp., and I'll adjust for the dT from chamber to wort as the fermentation progresses by observing the fermenter dial thermometer. I won't have to deal with coolant, pumps, leaks or chilling coils this way. Also, I can stack two chambers high, and on either side of the frig, for a number of kegs and temperatures. The flex hoses will allow me to move the frig and chambers independently if required. The frig will remain around 32 deg F for crash cooling. And I'll have to plumb the airlock to the outside, of course. That's the plan, anyways. Steve Heffner West End Brewery La Grange, IL [210.6, 262.3] Rn, apparently 58 FLH / SYF Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 12:32:53 -0500 From: "Jones, Steve (I/T) - Eastman" <stjones at eastman.com> Subject: CCF Chiller Since folks are still tossing out ideas on how to chill conicals, I thought I'd give my idea. It is a similar concept to Son of Fermentation Chiller, but uses a freezer to supply the cold air instead of jugs of ice, and incorporates a stand covered by an insulated box. I use this concept to chill my current fermentation chamber, which is 4 x 4 x 1 1/2 ft, and I can get it down to 30F even in the summer. One thing that I've found is critical to the design is to prevent any air exchange when the fan is off. Take a look if you're interested: http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew/ccf_chiller.htm Steve Jones Johnson City, TN [421.8 mi, 168.5 deg] Apparent Rennerian http://users.chartertn.net/franklinbrew Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 13:09:19 -0500 From: "Colby Fry" <colbyfry at pa.net> Subject: Hot Pepper Beer I was wondering if anyone has any suggestions for a hot pepper beer. This could be in the form of recipe's, best types of peppers, grains that compliment the heat from the peppers etc. Is this a worthwhile project or am I just getting carried away?Thank you. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2002 21:23:48 +0200 From: Arnaud VIEZ <arnaud at viez.net> Subject: UK-Homebrew Is there any HBD readers who s_ubscribed to the uk-homebrew digest? I just can't s_ubscribe, I always get the same return message : <uk-homebrew-request@ rhbnc.ac.uk>: host smtp1.rhbnc.ac.uk[] said: 550 Unknown local user 'uk-homebrew-request' Is there a problem with this list? Thank you in advance if you can tell me how to s_ubscribe. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 15:11:32 -0500 From: "Colby Fry" <colbyfry at pa.net> Subject: Hot Pepper Beer Another issue I was wondering about. Do I put the peppers in the bottle/keg or do I add to secondary or both? If I put in bottle will it screw up the yeast and make the beer hazy? All grain recipe? Thanks in advance! Colby Fry Orrstown, Pa Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 16:19:02 -0400 From: Russ.Hobaugh at erm.com Subject: Russian Imperial I just brewed my first Russian Imperial stout, and have some questions for the collective. This started at 1.092 and was finished in less than 3 days(I pitched it on the cake of a dry irish stout using Wyeast 1084.). I used my lagering fridge to keep the temp in the upper 60's. My questions are: how long should a leave it in the secondary? And should I add fresh yeast at bottling or will there be enough yeast left to do the job? TIA Russ Hobaugh Goob' Dog Brewery, Birdsboro PA Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 17:19:41 -0500 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Dark DME and 4 lb cans.......... Greetings, I have come across some homebrew supplies that I need to get rid of. I have lots of cans of LME in light, amber, and dark. As well as some DME Dark. I haven't used this stuff in a while. I was trying to put together some kits and offer them to local club members. Would 4 lb cans of Light and Amber DME, with say about 1 lb of 60 L Crystal in a grain bag make a nice Fest beer or Special Bitter, with appropriate hops and yeast? Also what is the best use of Dark DME, a bock or stout? How much, half of the fermentables? I appreciate any responses. Regards, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 19:55:03 -0600 From: "Mike Brennan" <brewdude at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Clear Weizen I too have had problems with clear weizens, with as much as 70% wheat malt. I believe the yeast has something to do with it. While the Wheinstephan Wyeast 3068 is a great banana/clove producer, when it poops out it completely falls out of solution. Can it be that it drags some of the proteins and haze particles with it? I can't see how that would happen. There is an old saying, when you get fed lemons make lemonade. I have learned to accept it, and now just enter the beer as a krystal wheat when it happens. Judges will usually give you bonus credit for getting it so clear, they are mystified and think you spent some energy and money filtering. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2002 19:27:22 -0700 From: "Michael J. Westcott" <mikew at sedona.net> Subject: Re: Clear Wheat Beers I've brewed many wheat beers (Bavarian weizens) and often have relatively clear beers with a lengthy (>10 days)secondary fermentation. Did you do secondary fermentations on these beers? Most of my weizens go from primary(10-12 days) straight to the bottle, and are primed with first runnings from the mashtun as speise and lager yeast. A lengthy secondary will produce a very clear weizen if done at 40-45 F. The one I'm drinking now spent 5 days in the secondary at 45F for cold conditioning and the haze is right on when compared to commercial examples, even though Irish moss was used. Hope some of this helps, Mike. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 06 Apr 2002 03:03:24 From: "chris eidson" <eidsonc at hotmail.com> Subject: radiator chilling Lonzo McLaughlin considers using an auto radiator for chilling . . . Coincidentally, my wife relayed to me a story just yesterday of one of her patients who happens to be in renal failure from lead poisoning secondary to using a car radiator to brew moonshine. Scary stuff. Chris Eidson Birmingham, AL Return to table of contents
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