HOMEBREW Digest #3929 Wed 01 May 2002

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  Re: HSA Problems - S Alexander's practical suggestions ("Gregor Zellmann")
  re: Alcohol Laws in NC ("Mark Tumarkin")
  Extract Brew Woes ("McCracken, Matthew B")
  RE: Lambic Help ("Steven Parfitt")
  RE: AHA Board ("Scott D. Braker-Abene")
  Re: recirculating cooled beer - yuengling lager (Marc Sedam)
  Used wine barrel ("Jon & Megan Sandlin")
  Re: HSA Problems (alastair)
  Re: cold break removal ("Kurt Schweter")
  An Introduction ("John Dow")
  RE: mash/boil oxidation (Brian Lundeen)
  Force Carbonating Root Beer (jeff storm)
  RE: Lambic Help (MOREY Dan)
  Wort oxidation ("Brian Schar")
  re: Lambic help (Steve Piatz)
  controlling foam? ("Richard Dulany")
  Power Tools ("Larry Bristol")
  Omaha & Chicago Recommendations (eriqjaffe)
  changing the alcohol laws in NC,Hops Restaurants,Neck Ring and/or Infection (Wil)
  Why not?? ("Jason A Koehler")
  My recirculation, chilling, aeration and yeast pitching method (Jeff Renner)
  Pinkus Munster Alt Clone wanted ("Michael R. Brzezowski")
  Re: AHA Board ("Steven Ford")
  Imperial Stout ("David Craft")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 11:09:34 +0200 From: "Gregor Zellmann" <gregor at blinx.de> Subject: Re: HSA Problems - S Alexander's practical suggestions Steve, I don't doubt that HSA occures during "normal homebrewing" and what you explain makes sense to me. You give a few practical suggestions, I would like to know more about: > A few practical suggestions --- > /sulfites in the mash/boil *** Could you please report which sulfites you add to your boil/mash and how much of them? > / CO2 or nitrogen in the mash/boiler headspace. This suggestion obvioulsly *would* minimize contact of O2 and mash/wort, but isn't it a bit expensive to let a lot of CO2 or N2 flow out of your CO2 tank for at least 4 hours? (90 min mashing, 60 min lautering/sparging, 90 min boil - and I didn't count the heat up phase of the wort until it starts boiling) I am afraid, my tank would be empty after one brewday. And a refill costs me 20 USD. How stabil are "cushions" (sp?) of CO2 on mash (stiring) and wort (stiring, evaporation)? > / make a mash/boil 'float' to reduce surface area. Possible while mashing. But doesn't one want a vigourous boil with an evaporation of around 10 % of the wort volume? A "float" on the wort surface would greatly reduce the evaporation rate, no? I hate DMS related, cooked vegetable taste in my beers (and I know what I'm talking about here)! > / use a lid Same as above > / use fresh crushed malt Easy for me > / remove break Pretty easy too Which of the mentioned methods are you using with your brews? friendly regards Gregor Berlin, Germany Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 06:54:57 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: re: Alcohol Laws in NC Bob and Marc, If you get enough emails indicating wide support and sufficient interest, I'd strongly suggest getting Pat to set up an email list on the HBD server - or you can do the same thing on yahoogroups.com This was extremely successful for us in Florida. I had Pat set up a list during our campaign to change the Bottle Laws. I've posted about this on the HBD before, so you're probably aware of the situation. If not, let me know and I'd be glad to talk with you about the specifics. It takes a lot of work and emails to get homebrewers and other beer lovers signed onto the list initially. But once that's done, it can be an extremely successful tool in quickly mobilizing phone & letter campaigns statewide at crucial points in your effort. Getting your views known and putting pressure on the legislators at the right times is huge. We are lucky that we don't have alc % limitations here in Florida, so since removing the bottle size restrictions we have started to see a lot of excellent beers (mostly imports, but also micros) on the shelves that were not previously available. This has made all the hard work getting the law changed seem really worthwhile. As a concerned homebrewer, beer lover, and AHA Board of Advisors member; I'd like to see the AHA in a leadership role in these issues too. Unfortunately, that hasn't been possible. Lobbying, either on the state or federal level, takes a lot of man-hours and can be extremely expensive. The AHA doesn't have enough staff or budget (we won't go there now, but obviously a shortage of cash was the reason for increasing membership cost). The AHA has helped in other states, mainly with support/communications, etc for the local folks who spear-headed the efforts. However, if you can come up with creative ways that the AHA can help out, please let me know. The Zymurgy angle may be a good one. Lobbying is a key function of many trade associations and I'd like the AHA to be more active in this area. Hopefully, we can find ways to do more. Still, for this type of campaign to succeed, it has to be a grassroots effort (and don't forget that barley is a grass!). One of the crucial keys to success is finding a local legislator who is willing to sponsor & fight for the legislation. It's not something that wins them points with the general population or the other legislators - much the contrary. They use up a lot of political capital and favors in such an effort. And it may be a long fight, taking more than one year to be successful. Still, there are legislators with integrity and courage; hopefully you can find one to sponsor your bill. Anyhow, good luck in your efforts Mark Tumarkin Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 05:37:41 -0700 From: "McCracken, Matthew B" <matthew.b.mccracken at intel.com> Subject: Extract Brew Woes Hi All: I'm just starting down the homebrew path and this is my first post, so hello to you all!! I'm sad to say that my first two attempts at extract brewing have gone awry. My first attempt was wrought with trouble, so I wasn't surprised when white, moldlike dots started appearing in my secondary fermentor. In fact, other than a clearly off-flavor from whatever that was, the beer was surprisingly tasty. It's my second attempt that troubles me. I just can't figure out where I went wrong, but I suspect it was in the fermentation. For starters, here's my recipe: 6lbs light DME 1 oz Galena (bittering - 1hr) 1 oz Fuggles (15 minutes) 1 oz Willamette (aroma) Wyeast 1056 "smack" - I made a starter wort 1 day prior to pitching that seemed fine A little Crystal 40 steeped before the boil (30 minutes) (My water was Poland Spring, regular not distilled) I boiled with 3 gallons of water. I used a copper wort chiller to bring the temp down to 72F or so and then combined it with another 3 gallons of 70F preboiled water, aerated it (by pouring back and forth between 2 20qt pots a bunch of times) and then used a 6.5gal glass carboy with airlock to ferment. The fermentation went fantastically and I kept it right at 70F in the dark. I originally planned to do 12-14 days or so in the primary and go right to bottling (my last secondary fermentation nightmare still had me spooked), but the krausen never fell and the yeast never really settled. I let it go 20 days before I finally gave up and bottled. I actually had to break through the "film" made by the krausen to get my siphon in the beer. I primed with cane sugar and the carbonation seemed to work fine, but the beer tastes like fermented grapefruit juice. To say it tastes "estery" would be a major understatement - it tastes like I mixed some grapefruit juice with a little booze, but it's nothing like beer. Any thoughts on what happened? Shouldn't my krausen have settled to the bottom after 20 days? -Matthew McCracken Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 09:03:19 -0400 From: "Steven Parfitt" <the_gimp98 at hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Lambic Help chris eidson Ponders pLambic First a couple of links: http://hbd.org/brewery/library/LmbicJL0696.html http://www.liddil.com/ http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/pvosta/pcrbier1.htm And then the proverbial warning: This stuf takes forever to age properly! Really, don't plan on drinking any of it for at least a year. Better yet 1.5 - 2 years. My first batch is nine months old, and was tasted by a couple of certified judges (BJCP) who agreed that it had potential, but was still too young. It was overly "horsy" and pretty much undrinkable still. I currently have four 5 gallon fermenters aging at different stages, and am not about to give up yet. The purpose of the 1056 is to give a neutral profile to the beer, then let the other beasties in the Lambic Blend take over to develop the pLambic profile. There is however no reason not to use the WLP400. It will give your beer a slight flavor profile of a wit as background to the beer. Ferment on the low temp side if you wish to minimize this. I added can of Oregon Rasberry Puree to one of my batches and it was almost undetectable. I may have added it too early, but the batch was near six months old at the time. I have used unmalted wheat in my batches, and they have come crystal clear after six months. I suspect the beasties in the Lambic Blend are using it for food and eliminating the haze it would throw in a fresh Wit. I think the recomendation is around 5# of fruit for each gallon of beer. This varies with the type of fruit. Strong fruit - less, light flavor fruit - more. With this recipe, you don't need the rice hulls. Raw Wheat is really sticky in a mash unless it is gelatinized by boiling it as a decoction. The original recipe called for raw wheat and this is why the rice hulls. I would suggest a couple of cups of flour as an addition per five gallons (thenkeep the rice hulls). I use Unbromated (unbleached) flour when I can't find the raw wheat. By the way, this is a good time to start preparing your hops for next years pLambic season. Go through your hops and pick out any old low %AA hops you can spare. Put them in a paper bag and store them in a garage, or outside protected from the weather. Let them "breathe" all summer and then bring them back in in the fall. They will be ready for next year. I don't use any pectin enzime, and don't see a reason for it. Clarity is not an issue with Lambic beer. Best wishes on your journey... Steven, -75 XLCH- Ironhead Nano-Brewery http://thegimp.8k.com Johnson City, TN 5:47:38.9 S, 1:17:37.5 E Rennerian "Fools you are... who say you like to learn from your mistakes.... I prefer to learn from the mistakes of others and avoid the cost of my own." Otto von Bismarck Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 05:36:51 -0700 (PDT) From: "Scott D. Braker-Abene" <skotrat at yahoo.com> Subject: RE: AHA Board Pete Calinski writes: "So, how many of the candidates read the HBD? This is a test" I Say: Pete, I read it every day. Sometimes twice. Although, I do not post as often as I have in the past. I feel a great connection to the HBD and the guys who run it. A fews years back the AHA had control of the HBD and pretty much killed it. I was contemplating taking it over when I realized that I could sucker... errr I mean talk Pat Babcock into running it. I knew that Pat (now a BOA member) would ultimately do a better job. There is not a day that goes by that I do not appreciate what Pat & Karl have done with the HBD site and I thank them for that. I am running for the BOA yet again also. Why me you ask? Well... I have asked myself that time and time again. I have been a long time outcast of the AHA and I have spoken against them on many an occasion. I posted their earnings and Charlie's tax returns to the web to make so called "members" aware of where their money was being spent. I have time and time again fought with the AHA on issues regarding what "membership" really is. I have argued against the policies of many of their employees and the way that some of those employees have been treated. I have tried to force change and gather support of others that will force change to an association that often seems 5 years behind the brewing community. I have hosted the BigBrew Chat for the last several years as well as having had my recipe brewed as a BigBrew recipe. Unlike many others I have continued to try to change the way things are done within the AHA on several different levels. I will continue to speak out whether or not I am elected into this secret society of mysterious doings. I do not really believe that the AHA or AOB is a driving force in the brewing world. Yet, I think they should be. I have watched them do little to nothing when it comes to legalization of homebrewing in the few states where homebrewing is still against the law. I would like to see that changed also. I would like to see many things change in the organization. I want to see the AHA become what it is supposedly meant to be: A membership-driven association funded and run by members. I know... I know... Pure craziness right? Every year the BOA elects new members... What do these members do? What do they vote on? Do they simply sit around drinking fine Cognac whilst smoking Cuban cigars all the time wearing powdered wigs and sitting in large over stuffed comfy chairs? I personally want to know. I think that any AHA member that voted (or chose not to vote) should know what these guys do for the betterment of the AHA and brewing in general. About the only time we hear about them is right before elections or the occasional scandal (Remember the psychotic ramblings of the "Dump Gump" posts and such?). Maybe... Just maybe we all can get involved just long enough to make some changes and get things really happening. I may be going out on a limb here but what the hell. If you can't stand me or think that I am still just a pompous ass please do not vote for me. However, if anything in this long drawn out wind bag of a "send this to the NY Times Unibomber like" diatribe even remotely hits a target for you then maybe give me a chance. There are brewers like Phil Sides, Jeff Renner, Steve Jones, Alberta Rager etc. on the ballot. All of them can make a difference and have great support of the local homebrewing community from which they reside. So... If you don't care to vote for a silly wanker like me take the time to vote for some of the others. They deserve it. Maybe more than I ever will. My grandfather once told me that change does not happen on its own... You have to make it happen. Every Zymurgy subscription buyer has the chance to make that "membership" be a real membership and not just a subscription. Take the time to read the candidate statements. There are some great people there. THEN VOTE! http://www.aob.org/AHA/ballot.htm C'ya! -Scott "Skotrat" Abene ===== "It's Mister Mischief with a trick up his sleeve... Roll up on you like Christopher Reeves" -D12 http://www.skotrat.com/skotrat - Skotrats Beer Page http://www.brewrats.org - BrewRats HomeBrew Club Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 10:05:54 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: Re: recirculating cooled beer - yuengling lager I've had a couple of requests for my Yuengling Lager clone. I made a 15 gallon batch, so converting it to 5 gal may be different than just dividing by 3. 15 gallon batch GRIST 11 lbs DWC pilsner malt 3.5lbs light Munich malt 2 lbs yellow corn grits 2lbs white corn grits HOPS 3.5oz Ultra -- first wort hopped 2oz Horizon (15%aa)-- 60 mins YEAST White Labs German Bock Yeast (new!) EDME dry yeast "GOODS" MASH Take 4lbs of pils malt and combine with 4lbs of corn grits. Add 3 gallons of water. Heat to 156F. Hold for 30 mins. Heat to boil. Boil for 20 mins. Add back to main mash REGULAR MASH Heat 7 gal of water to 110F. Hold 10 mins. Add the "goods" mash to the kettle. Hold full mash at 146F for 45 mins. Heat to 156F. Hold for 15 mins. Heat to 170F. Begin sparge. Sparge with 10 gallons of 175F water. Separate wort into two kettles. Collect 12 gallons of wort into one kettle, and 6.5 gallons of wort into the other kettle. Boil for 75 mins, adding hops at 60 mins. Large batch fermented with Bock yeast (true CAP) at 48F. Small batch fermented with EDME yeast (made a nice CACA). Boil. Chill. Ferment. Keg. Drink. It's been only about a month out of the boiler and it is one tasty beer. Very close to my recollections of Yuengling Lager (not Yuengling Premium--YUCK!). If you want to do it just like me, make sure some of the goods get stuck on the bottom of your direct-fired mash tun and scorch into something resembling a pleistocene era stone which still cannot be removed. It adds that certain je nais ce quoi to the beer. <tongue firmly planted in cheek> Marc "Cervesariis feliciter" (Long life to the brewers!) - -- Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 06:55:53 -0700 From: "Jon & Megan Sandlin" <sandlin at bendcable.com> Subject: Used wine barrel I purchased a used wine barrel (red wine) yesterday and instantly filled it with water to keep it from drying out. I plan to use it as a very large beer fermenter. What should I add to the barrel to clean it and store it for an indefinite period of time? Thanks in advance for any help. Jon Sandlin Bend, OR Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 07:14:03 -0700 (PDT) From: alastair <alastair at odin.he.net> Subject: Re: HSA Problems Steve Alexander retorts: > Your mock concern is latent hostility, Larry. I just noted that Alistair > was ignorant of the effects of oxidation. Ignorant? If I am ignorant of the effects of oxidation, then so are all the certified, national and grand master BJCP judges who mistakenly think my beer is any good (even though the didn't know it was mine). You may have missed my point: For those of us who brew beer and then enter it into a forum where objective criticism is given, it becomes apparent that ignoring the potential effects of HAS has no perceivable impact on the beer's quality, even after several months. I do not doubt your extensive knowledge of brewing (mostly from commercial sources from those papers you reference). All I'm saying is, that from practical experience, objective experimentation and critical analysis, HAS is of no concern in a home brewing environment. I'm not saying that my beer will not oxidizes, but the treatment of hot mash and wort would appear (and not purely from my own ignorant point of view) to have little impact on the rate at which it stales. Alastair Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 11:50:38 -0400 From: "Kurt Schweter" <KSchweter at smgfoodlb.com> Subject: Re: cold break removal while not necessary, you will sense ( real or imagined ) a cleaner favor profile - I skip secondary in favor of keg conditioning in my system I counterflow to a 10 gallon cornie then the next morning to my fermenter I probably wouldn't bother if I had to rack from a carboy but, give it a try,make sure you areate very , very well Kurt Schweter Executive Chef Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center And The Aquarium of the Pacific 300 E. Ocean Blvd Long Beach Ca, 90802 Tel: 562 499-7539 Fax: 562 499-7682 kschweter at smgfoodlb.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 16:57:12 +0100 From: "John Dow" <jmd at nelefa.org> Subject: An Introduction I'm one of those "new brewers" Gary Chumney mentioned in his post of 28th April, and just thought I'd pop my head aorund the door and say hello :) I live just outside Edinburgh, in Scotland, and have therefore no problems whatsoever finding yummy beer to drink (which I do (a lot (but not to excess))). Anyway, I was faced with the double quandry of a very large empty (purposeless) garage, and no decent local pub (the good ones being, sadly, a car drive away), so I decided to invest the money I would normally spend on bottles of Orkney Dark Island, Old Peculier, Ossian, Traquair Bear, etc, and invest in some books and equipment to facilitate the production of lovely beery goodness in my very own home. And so here I am - reading everything I can find (including this extremely informative mailing list) and preparing for my first batch. Wish me luck - I'm sure I'll be back with questions. Slainte John Dow Dalkeith, Scotland Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 11:15:42 -0500 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: mash/boil oxidation Steve Alexander writes of limiting oxidation during mash/boil: > > A few practical suggestions --- > /sulfites in the mash/boil *** > / CO2 or nitrogen in the mash/boiler headspace. > / make a mash/boil 'float' to reduce surface area. > / use a lid > / use fresh crushed malt > / remove break These all seem like sensible precautions, and for the most part, are achievable with so little effort that I would wonder why people wouldn't do them (says the guy who currently practices only 3 out of the 6). Some comments and questions come to mind. Not only shall I continue my mash sulfiting practices, I am now going to add a little more into the boil as well. And I might just start playing around with very small sulfite additions post-fermentation. Certainly, given the pH level of beer, using sulfites to provide an ongoing protective level of molecular SO2 similar to what is desired in winemaking would no doubt yield the dreaded sulfite stink that has kept homebrewers away from this chemical for as long as I've been reading the popular literature. But in small quantities, it might do some good. After reading Steve's descriptions of how oxidation manifests itself, there is no doubt in my mind that my beers are showing signs of oxidation as they age. While I do not pick up the cardboard, several of my beers have developed an unpleasant caramel character, and I now realize I need to be taking additional steps to limit oxidation. If I blast the kettle headspace with a blanket of CO2, would the turbulence created by the boil not simply cause this to be displaced or mixed with air from outside the kettle for the majority of the boil? I suppose a lid would help, Dave B has been preaching for years about the improvements he experienced when he started partially covering the kettle. I don't use the lid I have because I find it too difficult to see foam-ups. Perhaps a nice plexiglass lid. The 'float' idea has me curious. I have used a float of blue poly in the mash tun to assist in insulation. Compared to the oxygen introduced when the grains are mixed in, is the amount taken up at the mash/air interface while it is sitting quietly really that significant? How would you fashion a kettle float? Would the wort not foam up around this and leave you with the same problem? Finally, may I suggest we get rid of the acronym HSA, since so many people have such a strong objection to it. Let's call it MBO instead. This should accepting the validity of the science. "See, I knew there was no such thing as HSA, now this MBO thing, well... There's something that's got me lying awake at night..." ;-) Cheers Brian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 10:32:21 -0700 (PDT) From: jeff storm <stormyjeff at rocketmail.com> Subject: Force Carbonating Root Beer I know this is not beer related, but I am making some root beer and need some help on the carbonation. I will keg the root beer and force carbonate it. I have researched but unable to locate the correct PSI to force carbonate. Any suggestions? Private emails are welcome. Thanks Jeff Storm Louisville CO ===== Jeff Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 14:50:38 -0500 From: MOREY Dan <dan.morey at cnh.com> Subject: RE: Lambic Help Chris wrote: <Any suggestions on quantity of fruit? For "assertive" fruits such as raspberries and cherries, use between 1.5 and 2lbs of fruit per gallon of Lambic. Add the fruit to the secondary. < Also, I have a slurry of WLP400 Belgian Wit Ale yeast I was thinking of using it instead of Wyeast 1056 in the primary. Will this be in keeping with style guidlines? Will it make the finished product too phenolic? 3278 Lambic blend includes the necessary yeast to due the initial fermentation. If my memory is correct, there is a Belgian ale strain and a sherry strain along with all the Lambic goodies. I brewed a Lambic this weekend and this blend is all I'm using. Last year some friends and I brewed a Lambic starting fermentation off with 1056. We added the Lambic blend after primary. I thought it left the brew too clean. < Furthermore, the side of the Lindeman's bottle, while somewhat vague, lists one of the ingredients as unmalted wheat which differs from the Clonebrew recipe. Does it matter which one I use? Unmalted wheat is the traditional choice for Lambic. You can use malted wheat if you choose, I suspect it will change the flavor and mouth feel slightly. Wheat should make up at least 30% of the grist, so I would increase the amount you used. < Any recipe tweaks (Szamatulski's recipe follows) or general words of wisdom are greatly appreciated. Here is the recipe for the Kriek I made last weekend: Indian Kriek 6.00 lbs 2-row pale malt 3.00 lbs flaked wheat 0.18 lbs crystal 40L 0.60 oz homegrown Santiam hops from 2001 3278 Lambic blend Adjust water profile for Brussel region Mash Schedule step infusion (1.75 qt/lb grist): 15 minutes at 117 F 15 minutes at 136 F 15 minutes at 149 F 15 minutes at 162 F bring the entire mash to boil for 15 minutes sparge with 200 F water. * It is desirable to have unconverted starches in a Lambic wort. The short mash time, and the boil help achieve this. In addition, some tannins are extracted which are also desirable for this style. At secondary add: 8.00 lbs cherries 4.00 oz oak chips (soak over night then boil then minutes) 1.00 oz vanilla If you are interested, check out BABBLES' website which is hosted by the Homebrew Digest (Thanks!). On our site, we have an article about brewing Belgian ales on the homebrewing page. http://hbd.org/babble/ Cheers and Good Luck, Dan Morey Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 13:34:28 -0700 From: "Brian Schar" <schar at cardica.com> Subject: Wort oxidation Steve, thanks for the long exposition about HSA. I feel like I have a pretty good layman's understanding now, which is no small feat, because I am really, really bad at chemistry. Steve Alexander wrote: <<Bamforth estimates non-enzymatic processes could consume 100ppm of O2 per second (given oxygen) !! It's higher yet in the boil (near 1000ppm/sec). Wort has near zero dissolved oxygen as oxidation uses it instantly. More O2 infuses from air by Henry's Law. 'Course any splashing, stirring or air exposure adds in. One study (need more) measures 2/3rd of the O2 uptake occurs during the boil !>> Merely boiling the wort causes 2/3 of the HSA, if I read this correctly. This seems to far overshadow the other causes of aeration (which might be why some of the guys can abuse their mash without having much, if any, flavor problems--that abuse only counts for 1/3 of the problem). Hence your recommendations to manage oxidation in the boil--and I plan to try these. How should a brewer deliver sulfite to the wort in such a way as to combat HSA without causing an off-flavor due to the presence of sulfur compounds? Any suggestions? In particular, do you have a recommended amount of a particular chemical that would be helpful to add? I am eager to try suggestions out on a batch of hefeweizen I plan to brew this weekend or the weekend after. Brian Schar [2040.5, 273.6] Apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 15:38:47 -0500 (CDT) From: Steve Piatz <piatz at cray.com> Subject: re: Lambic help Chris Eidson <eidson at hotmail.com> asks about a lambic recipe. > 4.5# Belgian Pilsner malt > 1.5# Belgian Wheat malt > .5# flaked wheat malt > 1# rice hulls > .5# Gambrinus honey malt > 1.5 oz old Czech Saaz > 1 tsp Irish moss > 1/2 tsp elderberries for color > 1056 American Ale yeast > 1 46oz can Oregon Seedless Raspberry Concentrate > 20 drops pectin enzyme > 3278 Lambic blend yeast The recipe would be OK for the grist but you shouldn't actually need the rice hulls for such a small percentage of wheat. You could go with unmalted wheat instead of the malted version, I generally use dry extract to make my lambics. I would leave out the Irish moss, the beer will have more than ample time to clear. You can also skip the pectic enzyme in a fruit lambic, remember these are beers that take years to finish. For the hops, any aged hop variety is OK. The hops should have no hop aroma. I age mine in a paper bag in the attic of the garage for one or more years to get the appropriate aging. The raspberry amount is way too low. I have had several different batches that used three cans (equivalent to ~10 pounds of fresh fruit) in competitions and they were usually judged as needing more raspberry. More recently I have went to 4 or more cans of puree per 5 gallon batch which seems to have solved that problem according to the scoresheets I have received so far. If you up the raspberry amount you won't need elderberries for color. I have thought about several atypical fruit lambics but hadn't considered elderberries. As for the Wyeast 3278 lambic blend, I have one going but by my standards it is still too young to try. My usual lambics (I do have 9 dedicated lambic fermenters) use a blend of pure cultures of Brett. and Pedio. plus a blended culture derived from numerous commercial lambics such as Boon, De Cam, Hannssens, Cantillon, and others. For the primary fermentation cycle I use whatever yeast I have available, in the end which yeast you use isn't going to make that much difference. - -- Steve Piatz in Mendota Heights, MN Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 16:02:40 -0600 From: "Richard Dulany" <richarddulany at hotmail.com> Subject: controlling foam? Does anyone have any suggestions for controlling excessive foaming during primary fermentation? I pitched a very active starter (White Labs Belgian Abbey Ale) into a high-gravity Abbey-style ale and the foam production has just been unbelievable. The lid popped off my plastic-bucket primary twice yesterday alone even though the airlock was not blocked. Also, is there a way to control excessive foaming when opening bottles of very high-gravity beer? My 2000 Maibock still foams out of the neck of the bottle after it's opened, despite nearly 1 1/2 years in the bottle. Yours in foam, Ricardo Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 17:30:11 -0500 From: "Larry Bristol" <Larry at DoubleLuck.com> Subject: Power Tools Words are powerful tools. But like most things with so much power, they are a two edged sword. When a thought is worded with care, those words contain the power to inform others and perhaps to influence their opinion. When worded carelessly, the thought and the information is most often lost. Perhaps I am mistaken, but it is my considered opinion that the purpose of this digest is to exchange thoughts, opinions, and information about homebrewing with others having a similar interest. Since the knowledge, experience, skills, and special interests of the participants vary widely, it is fundamental in such a medium that the words chosen to express our thoughts show respect for the thoughts and opinions of others, regardless of their level of knowledge, experience, and skill. One may, of course, disagree with the thoughts expressed by another. When disagreement is expressed in a respectful manner, all of the participants benefit. When disagreement is wrapped in words that demean and degrade, the otherwise valid information within is simply lost. Additionally, many individuals (including those who are not the direct target) will be discouraged from future participation in the dialog. Every time this happens, we all lose. I give a great deal of thought to the words I choose to express my thoughts. I hope it shows. As an example in point, this article evolved over a period of some 36 hours. During that time, it was written, edited, reedited, and rethought through many iterations. Why? Because it is important to me that the message be clearly understood; any negative connotation I might unwittingly express will hinder that message. Spending so much time does not mean, of course, that I always get it "right". But I can safely say that every word and phrase is chosen with at least some degree of care. As an amateur linguist, I recognize that words can be used in a many ways. A frugal linguist might use words in a frugal manner. A joyful linguist might use words in a joyful manner. I enjoy using words in a cunning manner, forcing the reader to actually think about what he is reading. A secondary (and cunning) purpose of this paragraph is a subtle(?) expression of an off color joke. Humor is a good way to lighten the mood, but only when it is used in a way that does not belittle the readers. I try very hard to keep my comments positive no matter what. I have always striven to do so in the past, and will continue to do so in future. I invite all participants in this forum to join me in this spirit of mutual respect. There is not one of us that has all of the answers concerning the subject of homebrewing. Larry Bristol Bellville, TX AR=[1093.6,223.2] http://www.doubleluck.com Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 22:31:39 +0000 From: eriqjaffe at att.net Subject: Omaha & Chicago Recommendations I've been lurking for a long time now, but I was hoping to call upon the wisdom of the collective... I'm going to be passing through Omaha, and was wondering if anybody could recommend any brewpubs in the area. After I've passed through Omaha, I will be settling in the Chicago area, and I'd also like recommendations of a HB supply store, preferably in the Northwest Suburbs. My thanks to all... - --Eriq. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 22:30:53 GMT From: Wil at thebeermanstore.com Subject: changing the alcohol laws in NC,Hops Restaurants,Neck Ring and/or Infection >Changing the alcohol laws in NC Marc Sedam.... NEW JERSEY !!!!!!! My Gawd. You aint' from around here are ya? ;-) If you change it in NC then SC may follow. Please, PLEASE make it happen!. The folks in SC have never been exposed to belgian or High gravity beers and my expired belgian yeast collection proves it. >Hops Restaurants... Funny, Here in the Charleston area we have had 4 brew "masters" at the local Hops. Two of them were promoted from waiter/cook/bus boy and all 4 were fired or transferred for ANY spark of originality. Go figure >Neck Ring and/or Infection. I have used One Step for almost every type of sanitation (pump, carboy, bottle) and been very happy, perhaps you are overlooking something. Wil Kolb The Beer Man Plaza at East Cooper 607 B Johnnie Dodds Blvd Mt. Pleasant SC 29464 843-971-0805 Fax 843-971-3084 Wil at thebeermanstore.com www.maltydog.com www.thebeermanstore.com God bless America! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 17:36:09 -0500 From: "Jason A Koehler" <Jason.Koehler at ipaper.com> Subject: Why not?? I just wanted to see if anyone in the group had tried to make a lemon brew? I have successfully made a couple of apple and cran apple ciders which have turned out well. So I thought I would try something new. Before I waste my time on a brew that turns out nasty I thought I would see if this has been done before and if so what happened. As well as any pointers you may have... Thanks in advance!! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 19:33:08 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: My recirculation, chilling, aeration and yeast pitching method Brewers I've been asked privately on on HBD to explain some more details about my method of chilling I mentioned the other day. First, no, the yeast doesn't get filtered out. Now on to details. I use an immersion chiller in an eight gallon batch in a ten gallon boiler. There is a pico-System slotted copper false bottom and a ball valve tap, and I use a magnetic impeller pump. I immerse the chiller about five minutes or so before the end of the boil to sanitize it. At the end of the boil (with whole hops), I typically will add finishing hops, turn off the flame, and allow the hops to settle for three or four minutes. Then I turn on the water (cold well water - 48F in the winter, 53F in the hottest part of the summer). You can watch the dial on the thermometer wind down really fast. In less than a minute it's down to 190 or so, when I turn on the pump to recirculate (I've opened the tap earlier to fill the chamber with boiling wort - again to sanitize it). I return the wort to the top of the kettle to minimize stratification. It probably takes about ten minutes to get below 80F, at which point I begin to splash the wort to aerate and loosen the hose fitting from the outlet tap to suck in a stream of bubbles. These are beaten into tiny bubbles by the pump impeller, which I figure maximizes O2 dissolving. I continue until I get to the temperature I want to ferment at, 65-68F for ales and 48-50F for lagers. Those last 15 degrees to 48-50F take some time for lagers. All of this pretty much filters out the hot break and perhaps some of the cold break, but not all of it, I am sure, as I have hazy wort after it chills (it was virtually clear at boiling temperature. The hop bed acts as a filter. Now here's the part that seems to get the questions - I pitch the well suspended yeast right in the chilled wort in the boiler as I continue recirculating and aerating. With both ales and lagers I pitch at around 70F, but I reach fermentation temperature within minutes for ales and tens of minutes for lagers, so they aren't warm for long. I saw Dan McConnell do this some years ago when we brewed together (although he only splashed to get aeration - cracking the hose fitting is my idea). I asked him if we weren't going to filter out the yeast on the hops bed and he assured me we wouldn't. And we didn't, and I don't. Evidently it's too small to be filtered out. If I have time, I will continue this recirculation with aeration for up to an hour while I clean up and do whatever. During this time, I occasinally have to play the stream of wort across the meringue that has built up to knock it down. Then I continue to draw in the stream of bubbles while I pump the wort into the fermenter. I believe that AJ DeLange reported that in wort pitched with normal pitching levels of yeast, he saw (using a dissolved oxygen meter and an airstone with pure O2)) the DO levels go from saturation to zero in twelve minutes. Those yeast are hungry for oxygen! I figure that I must be getting one or two generations of yeast budding during this happy hour, and they probably have really healthy cell membranes full of ergosterols or unsaturated fatty acids or just exactly what it is that Alan Meeker was telling us about at MCAB, so they are in a position to reproduce another six times or so after I turn off the bubbling. Now I don't get terribly short lag times with this method, but that isn't necessarily bad. I think the yeast is busy reproducing for a while before they get down to fermentation and producing kraeusen. BTW, while I try to pitch large amounts of yeast, I have had good luck pitching a only fresh tube of White Labs yeast into eight gallons of wort and have had healthy ferments. That is actually somewhat below ideal pitching levels. The yeast from the bottom of the primary is virtually pure and clear of trub. If I've left anything unclear, let me know and I'll try to further explain. Jeff - -- ***Please note my new address*** Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 20:44:33 -0400 From: "Michael R. Brzezowski" <mrb at dedham.k12.me.us> Subject: Pinkus Munster Alt Clone wanted I have found my new favorite beer. It is the Pinkus Munster Alt. I am hoping to find an extract/extract-grain recipe to clone this beer as close as I can. I don't know much about the Alt's so I really don't know if it is close to the original German style, or what. Can anyone help? This is going to be my last batch for a long time, so I am hoping to make it a great one (I am moving to St. Kitts in August so my wife can go to Ross University Vet school. It will be too hot to brew without a fridge and we are going to be too poor for a second fridge). Thanks...Mike Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 19:59:28 -0500 From: "Steven Ford" <spare at kc.rr.com> Subject: Re: AHA Board Responding to Pete Calinski's post of Monday April 29 -- while I have only posted to the digest once or twice, I do read the HTML version on a regular basis as a way to keep abreast of issues particular to this forum and the homebrewing community. The candidates statements are available on-line at http://beertown.org/AHA/ballot.htm . I hope you take the time to visit the site and vote Thanks, Steve Ford Overland Park, KS Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 22:58:17 -0400 From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net> Subject: Imperial Stout Greetings, I am formulating a recipe for Imperial Stout using Promash. The recipe is mostly extract, with a good bit of that being Dark DME. The guiedlines call for an SRM of 20-40. In researching other recipes they all seem to come in at 50+ for color. Any thoughts on this? I am thinking that at this dark color you would not notice the difference between a 40 and 60 anyway........... Regards, David B. Craft Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery Greensboro, NC Return to table of contents
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