HOMEBREW Digest #3956 Thu 06 June 2002

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  FWH in Partial Mash/Brewing Schools (Steve Tighe)
  Best priming for Yorkshire bitter ("B Morey")
  larger batches.. (Darrell_Leavitt/SUNY)
  Wow! ("James Sploonta")
  RE: Running out of Sugar Blues ("Rogers, Mike")
  Beer and Sweat 2002 ("Eric Tepe")
  Bjoern Thegeby and Larger Batch Sparge Water Requirements ("Dan Listermann")
  re:  length of sparge ("Chuck Dougherty")
  Re: Length of sparge? (Demonick)
  Re: What do you drink from? (Jeff Renner)
  beer pins and badges ("Dave Burley")
  Corny Threads Identified (mohrstrom)
  beercollections ("Dave Burley")
  Home RO water filter systems (Art Beall)
  Re: FWH - Needs Clarification (Jeff Renner)
  What do you drink from? ("Gary Smith")
  Recipe for Molsen Porter (djg)
  Re: FWH - Needs Clarification ("DRTEELE")
  Steve is the man! ("Robin Griller")
  RE:  MCAB ("Houseman, David L")
  bottles (ALABREW Homebrewing Supplies)
  RE: flavour extraction (Brian Lundeen)
  Re: SAB buys Miller Brewing (Rick)
  Basic questions from a newbie ("B Noll")
  Beer and America (Roy Roberts)
  Saccharification: 1 step or 2? ("Paul Stutzman")
  Cold Break Removal ("Sweeney, David")
  Widgets ("Joseph S. Gaglio")
  Call for NHC Judges and Stewards (blutick)
  Cheap but good pH meter? ("Gary Smith")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 4 Jun 2002 22:10:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Steve Tighe <steve_tighe at yahoo.com> Subject: FWH in Partial Mash/Brewing Schools Hello everybody, A couple very different questions: 1. In following the recent First Wort Hopping thread, I was wondering how well that would work in a partial mash. The main reason I was questioning it was that it seems that the sparge is a bit shorter with the lower volume; will the hops be in the pre-boiled wort long enough for it to work its magic? Similarly, I've been considering adapting John Palmer's no-sparge suggestions from the recent Brew Your Own (if I can ever find the at #^%# magazine again) to my partial mash. Any reason FWH wouldn't work in that method? 2. The other thing is, following another recent thread, one day I may just decide to open up a brewpub myself. Now, I'm nowhere near ready at this point. For the moment, I'm not prepared to work that hard or give up the steady paycheck. I also know nowhere near enough about brewing to think of doing it professionaly at this point (only been doing it at home for a year plus). I've been thinking that as prep to striking out on my own, I ought to do it right, and get some actual training, then serve a couple years as a working brewer in a successful brewery, so I really understand the process from a commercial viewpoint. Anyhow, I'm here in Northern California, which affords me two realistic options that I can see: UC Davis Extension and the American Brewers' Guild. The ABG has the distinct advantage of being internet based, so I could stick with my job for most of the training, and just focus full-time during the month's apprenticeship. Davis, in contrast, is a full time in-person type deal, but is at least reasonably local (Siebel in Chicago just seems unrealistically far away when I have two options within an hour of home). Do any of y'all know about the ABG and Davis programs? Would the ABG provide a thorough enough education to a) get a job in a good brewerey, and b) learn the art/science/engineering enough to be sufficiently skilled to make quality beer on a small commercial scale? And what, exactly, would all the additional time at Davis provide? Thanks brewers, Steve Tighe Berkeley CA Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 20:50:13 +1000 From: "B Morey" <bernardmorey at optushome.com.au> Subject: Best priming for Yorkshire bitter What's everyone's view on the best priming (or, rather, the most appropriate for the style) for a 1.045 OG North Yorkshire bitter? Hitherto I've primed in the bottle but as I've now got two fermenters bulk priming might be better as there'll be different bottle sizes. The traditional Aussie lager rate -- about 180g per 23l -- would be too fizzy. A local fellow brewing expert suggests 130g. The brewkit manufacturer (Muntons) says 85g. I liked the less gassy UK style when I drank it draught in UK pubs, and the imported cans aren't all that gassy either and are very pleasant (John Smith's has 'Bob' - a widget). Bernard Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 06:58:51 -0400 From: Darrell_Leavitt/SUNY%SUNY at esc.edu Subject: larger batches.. Jeff; this may be obvious,..if so, forgive me, but how long does it take for your sparge (5 gallon versus 10 gallon) and do you make sure that you maintain temps (168-170F?) and do you keep an inch or so of liquor on top of the grainbed? Also do you watch pH? These could all be factors, I believe... ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 07:10:52 -0400 From: "James Sploonta" <biere_god at hotmail.com> Subject: Wow! What is it in my last post that Little Stevie could possibly have read as a personal attack on himw to cause such a response? I do believe, Steve, that before hitting the send button, you should seek some introspection - or, better, professional help - rather than spread your obvious disdain for the common all over the internet. By the way: my hotmail handle was chosen as a bit of fun. Unlike you, I have no delusions regarding my stature in the world of brewing. Please refrain from gracing my inbox, if not the HBD, with any more of your vitreolic prose. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 07:55:17 -0400 From: "Rogers, Mike" <mike.rogers at eds.com> Subject: RE: Running out of Sugar Blues Re: Jeff wrote concerning issues with hitting target gravities on 10 gal batches. Efficiency of the Mash can vary based upon Ingredients and Process, most specifically the grain bill, freshness of grain, and how fine the grain is crushed. Your example is extreme. I highly suggest using a gravity calculator such as one in Beer In Hand or ProMash. I've brewed about 6 10-11 gallon batches since using the automated calculators, and I haven't missed target gravity by more than a point or so... Mike Rogers Cass River Homebrewers www.hbd.org\cassriverhomebrewers Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 09:05:47 -0400 From: "Eric Tepe" <erictepe at insightbb.com> Subject: Beer and Sweat 2002 Collective, Fire up those kettles and get ready because Beer and Sweat 2002 is almost here! What is Beer and Sweat? It is the nation's only keg competition hosted by the Bloataring Brewing League in Florence Ky (which is just south of Cincinnati, OH). Last year David Faber of SAAZ took Best of Show with his Bavarian Weizen. This years event will be on August 17th at the Ramada Inn in Florence, Ky. You can make reservations at 859-371-4700. Ask for the Beer and Sweat rooms as we get a special rate.I believe it is actually lower than last year! All beer styles, including mead will be judged. As most of you know, Beer and Sweat is a keg only competition and we will accept corny kegs of all sizes, sankey kegs of all sizes, party pigs and mini-kegs. Again, there will be no 2-liters this year. Entry fee is $5 for the 1st entry, $4 for the 2nd entry, $1 for the 3rd entry. Each additional entry over a total of 3 is free. Last year we had a record 131 entries! Boy was it a party! We will start excepting entries in July at our web site www.hbd.org/bloat. As always there will be a great raffle as well. Last year we raffled off (3) 50lb bags of malt, as well as about 80 other prizes. There is plenty of food near by so no one will have to starve. For your information, Florence, KY if only 12 miles from Cincinnati, 70 miles from Dayton, about 120Mi from Columbus, 130mi form Indy, about 4 hrs south of Cleveland and Toledo, 5 hrs south of Chicago, Pittsburgh, Detroit and Ann Arbor, 80 miles north of Lexington KY, 100 mi N of Louisville KY, 3 hrs N from Evansville IN, and about 4-5 hrs N from Knoxville TN. We look forward to seeing everyone and having a great time! Sincerely, Eric Tepe Beer and Sweat Coordinator Bloatarian Brewing League Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 09:41:27 -0400 From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com> Subject: Bjoern Thegeby and Larger Batch Sparge Water Requirements <Anybody in Toronto who would like to meet for a beer with a Swedish <homebrewer living in Belgium, during next week (up to June 12)? I could <bring a local sample or two....Answers by e-mail, please <Bjorn Thegeby <Waterloo (No, not that one, the real one) Bjoern happened to be in Cincy the very night the Bloatarian Brewing League had its regular meeting at Mecklenburg Gardens. He put on a great show with some very interesting beers that are not available this side of the pond. Everybody had a great time and I can't recommend meeting with him enough. He is more than welcome here anytime! "Jeff Woods" <woodsj at us.ibm.com> notes that his 10 gallon batches run out of sugar quicker than 5 gallon batches. He seems to see this as a problem. When making a 5 gallon batch, I typically use 5 gallons of sparge water to get the last runnings to about 1.010. For 10 gallon batches, I usually don't need more than 8 gallons and I have to add water to the kettle to make up enough wort for the length of brew. I don't see this as a problem. I believe that the greater grain depth of larger batches brings on an increase in efficiency by exposing the sparger water to more sugar on a per unit volume basis. Jeff's experience shows that using less sparge water did not cause his extraction to suffer since he was shooting for 1.040 gravity and ended up with 1.050. The solution to his "problem" is to reevaluate his efficiency calculations upward. Dan Listermann Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 09:29:44 -0500 From: "Chuck Dougherty" <jdougherty at wlj.com> Subject: re: length of sparge Steve Alexander posts in #3955 that commercial brewers use around 1 gallon of total water per pound of grist, and proposes that this is a good upper bound. Some of the no-sparge and batch-sparge proponents claim that the greatest oversparging risk with fly sparging occurs at the top of the grain bed. The theory as I understand it is that the top of the grain bed is more thoroughly rinsed, and thus tannins are leached here first. So I'm wondering--does the 1 gallon limit apply only when one fly sparges, and would there be a higher limit if one were to use a batch-sparging technique where the grain bed is stirred between drainings? I realize that for "standard" batch-sparging techniques the point is largely academic because you generally wouldn't pass the 1-gallon limit anyway, but I have just started experimenting with batch sparging and am interested in determining the outer limits of this technique. Chuck Dougherty Little Rock, Arkansas Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 07:50:10 -0700 From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com> Subject: Re: Length of sparge? From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at interlync.com> >I thought there was a problem with leaching tannins >from husks & creating off flavors from prolonged >exposure to husks to higher temps & water. As long as you maintain mash and sparge pH in the low 5's, say about 5.2, and do not get above 5.5, you'll be fine. If you have soft water add about 1 gram/gallon of gypsum to increase the Ca++ levels by about 60 ppm. This will help buffer your mash pH and kep it in the right range. By the way, that's 1 gram/gallon in your mash and sparge water. For a 5 gallon batch I treat 10 gallons of water, about 3.5 gallons for the mash, and the remaining available for the sparge. Run your sparge at 1-2 quarts per minute. I tend for the high end of that just as a time issue. I'd rather add an extra pound or two of malt and save some time throughout the process. If you are going to run a "fast" sparge a mash out may be advisable to reduce the viscosity. Cheers! Domenick Venezia Venezia & Company, LLC Maker of PrimeTab (206) 782-1152 phone (206) 782-6766 fax Seattle, WA demonick at zgi dot com http://www.primetab.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 10:40:50 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: What do you drink from? UK Brewing Supplies in Lancaster, PA won't do Bernard Morey any good in Oz, but for those of us in the States, this looks like a pretty good deal if you can get a bunch of friends or a HB club together for a case. That's what I did to put together an order of the new Malt Blenders Glass from Scotland. I'm sure you could even get them engraved with a club logo, though perhaps not from this supplier. From their web site at http://www.ukbrewing.com/ (click on "Pub Paraphernalia"): GIVE 'EM A REAL PINT IN A REAL PINT GLASS What better way to serve a pint of ale than in an authentic British pub glass? We now offer imperial pint (20 fl. oz.) and half pint (10 fl. oz) stackable "Nonic" glasses (the ones with the bump) and "Tulip" glasses (the Guinness glass). These come with the official government "weights & measures" stamp for that "air of authenticity". What better to serve your real ale in? British Pub Glasses w/ government stamp 1 pint (case of 48) $63.00 British Pub Glasses w/ government stamp 1/2 pint (case of 72) $82.00 <><><> Shipping is extra, of course. The "Nonic" style (think "no nick," not a rhyme with sonic) are made with that bump or ridge so they can be stacked without nicking or wedging together. It also helps keep your forth or fifth pint from slipping through your fingers. I have some I bought nearly 20 years ago from a restaurant supply in Toronto when they were really rare on this side of the pond. These have a less pronounced bulge and no government stamped "Plimsoll line" - a pint is full right to the brim. I think this was typical of what we found in England 28 years ago. BTW, I bought these after having the first cask conditioned real ale in North America (1985) from a hand pump in a pub in Toronto. The ale was from Wellington County Brewery in Guelph http://www.wellingtonbrewery.ca/ and was inspiring. I have to confess to having been ignorant of real ale when we went to England years before. I don't know if I had real ale or not, but probably not since I no doubt bought the brands I saw advertised on the sides of buses or just asked for a pint of bitter, or maybe ale. Since this was the height of the keg ale push by the big breweries, and profits were higher for keg ale, that's probably what I got. I do remember being unimpressed by English ale at the time. Enough rambling. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:01:05 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: beer pins and badges Brewsters, It's not my thing, but for those collectors of beer memorabilia, pins, badges etc check out: http://www.beercollections.com/BCadorderPinPins.htm Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:03:16 -0400 From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com Subject: Corny Threads Identified Thanks to all who pointed me in the right direction! I checked a tank plug from a Spartanburg Challenger VI with a GO/NO GO thread gauge (NIST-tracable certs on request ...) and found the thread to be a 5/8-18 UNF. This should be commonly available as threaded brass rod. Hack the rod off to the appropriate length, through drill (finish isn't important for the gas side) and tap one end for 1/8 FNPT, use nuts on either side (with maybe a face gasket next to the gas fitting) and you have a spiffy bulkhead fitting for your keg fridge. Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 12:11:57 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: beercollections Brewsters, On further looking, this site I mentioned above( beercollections.com) has lots of beer related stuff including glasses, openers, food, books, etc. I have no affiliation with them, just thought some might be interested.. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 09:06:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Art Beall <arthurbeall at yahoo.com> Subject: Home RO water filter systems Hello, I'm considering purchasing a home RO filter system for brewing. I would be interested in anybodys experience with these systems. I've been buying RO water from a local shop for several years now. About .25/gal. My own water is well water, which has too much iron in it for brewing. The softened water doesnt work well for me either. The local shop is going out of business, so I've been considering the home system. Some of the systems I've been looking at have a DI filter that removes some of the trace chemicals that slip by the RO membrane. UV light is another option for killing bacteria. Also, permeate pumps are available for reducing the back pressure on the membrane and boasting performance(from what the advertisiing says). My idea was to use a few suitable plastic barrels to hold the RO water for brewing. Turn it on the day or two before brewing, and let it fill up. I occasionally brew large 45 gal batches, so I need about 70 gallons or so for that. I was thinking the 50 GPD membrane would work fine. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. ===== Art Beall arthurbeall at yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 12:12:28 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: FWH - Needs Clarification Dan, aka "DRTEELE" <drteele at bellsouth.net>, writes from an undisclosed location: >Jeff gives the clearest, most succinct definition of FWH I have seen >yet. Thanks you for the kind words. >Unfortunately, It is still a little vague in defining the hops in >question, particularly as defined in the standard 3 addition schedule. >Jeff's def merely referred to the FWH hops as being the 'normal late >addition hops'. I'm not sure that I hop in the same fashion as the German brewers in the experiment reported in Brauwelt International. But this is how I do it. Normally (non-FWH), I add bittering hops at the beginning of the boil (typically 60-75 minutes), then what I call flavor hops (since the aroma gets boiled out but flavor remains) for the last 15 minutes, then aroma hops (since, hopefully, most of the aroma remains) at the I begin chilling with an immersion chiller. For FWH, I use this second "aroma" addition in the first wort. I then still use more or less the normal amount of bittering hops (although I do take into consideration that the FWH will contribute some bitterness) and I also still add the normal aroma hops. FWHing makes a big contribution of hop flavor and a bit of aroma, I think. That is what Pete Garafalo was trying to determine at MCAB-1 with his triangle test. So, to recapitulate, I move the entire second addition to FWH and let it go from there. If it seems too bitter, I might reduce the main bittering hops next time, but in general, the additional bitterness from FWH doesn't seem to be a problem. If this still isn't clear, let me know. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 11:33:04 -0500 From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at interlync.com> Subject: What do you drink from? homebrew at hbd.orgBernard Morey asks what do we drink from... The heart. Yes, I get passionate when I drink good brew. It's a soulful experience that is akin to being part of the winning touchdown, catching a trophy Bass, hearing the sound of wind flowing through the Colorado Aspens on a warm summer's day or the return smile from a wanton beauty envisaging connubial passion in the pines with none but yourself. No; a fine beer is not used for simple refreshment on a hot day, it's reserved for those moments when the universe's Shofar has rendered a call to unity. One drinks from the heart, the soul, from our very being. With that conception; I either tip the bottle itself or use a 3 Floyds beer glass. BTW: If you can find 3 Floyds at a tap near you (Greater Chicago area), you are truly blessed. Their Behemoth Barleywine Is my personal favorite & the Rabid Rabbit requires two glasses minimum. de KA1J Gary Gary Smith http://musician.dyndns.org "The only things worthwhile in life are music and cats" - Albert Einstein - Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 13:24:55 -0400 From: djg at ccy.com Subject: Recipe for Molsen Porter > A friend of mine wants me to try to recreate a beer that no longer exists > and that I have never had before. It was a Porter that Molsen Brewery > used > to offer. He is describing it as a light bodied porter that was not very > sweet but had some body and roastiness. Something like a session porter. > I'm > thinking a combination between a brown ale and a brown porter with some > corn > sugar to lighten the body. My plan would be to use a Scottish Ale yeast > to > promote the malty flavors and get the FG down as low as possible. Has > anyone > out there had this beer and/or tried to make it in the past? > > Thanks, > > Daniel J. Gestwick > Senior Search Consultant > Engineering & Operations > Cochran, Cochran & Yale, LLC > 5900 Main Street > Williamsville, NY 14221 > Ph/716-631-1300 > Fax/716-631-1319 > dan at ccy.com > www.ccy.com > > Cochran, Cochran & Yale > "Building companies one career at a time" > > > Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 13:40:29 -0400 From: "DRTEELE" <drteele at bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: FWH - Needs Clarification Jeff, Thanks a bunch. That is just the particular info I was looking for. Now I can adjust most recipes that define 3 hop additions to FWH. In honor of your wisdom and assistance, I will now schedule a session to produce one of your highly esteemed CAP brews. Might as well...... it's time better spent than watching the Cubbies. Dan P.S. - This undisclosed location is sunny (and hot, and humid, and downright miserable for brewing) South Florida. However, West Palm does have a decent brewstore (HBO- NAYYY) and club ( P.B. Draughtsmen). Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:47:35 -0400 From: "Robin Griller" <robin_g at ica.net> Subject: Steve is the man! Hi all, What can be said to someone who actually believes that I believe that all commercial breweries produce bad beer? What can be said to someone who can't tell that I was having a gentle poke at those who admonish us to imitate the megabreweries' techniques, by making the point that if they wanted to brew better beer, many of them would be better off imitating our techniques? What can be said to someone who doesn't realize that what happens in a tightly controlled experiment in highly unnatural conditions may not matter in everyday circumstances? I do apologize for having the temerity to violate the rules of posting to HBD according to Steve Alexander. I am now convinced: in the future, no humour, no fun, no use of brains required for writing or reading. Which is why I will now endeavour to be as ill-mannered as Steve. The only person I've ever noticed having a repeated inability to understand what I or others write is Steve. While he questions my writing skills, which, I am certain, are less than perfect, I wonder why it has never occurred to him to question his reading skills. Oh, to be so self-assured! ciao, Robin Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:48:02 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: MCAB Dave Holt asks about how the MCAB works. Yes, you enter any of the Qualifying events as you would any competition; they are just competitions which also allow you to qualify for the MCAB. If you win first place in any of the Qualifying styles (BJCP style categories 1-20) then you will be invited to enter the MCAB itself for the style(s) that you win. You are welcome to brew a new batch for the MCAB if you wish. In theory all of the beers in the MCAB should be very good beers because they had all won previously. In practice IMHO there is as much variability in the entries at the MCAB as any competition because of beer aging or inconsistencies of the brewers in re-brewing. However, I was fortunate to judge the BOS round at this year's MCAB in Cleveland and it was without doubt the finest BOS round of 20 beers I've ever judged. We didn't get far trying to eliminate obviously non-winners before we got into debates. The honor of winning at the MCAB should not be under estimated. So, enter any of the Qualifying Events just as you normally would and if you win, certainly it's worth entering the MCAB itself. Dave Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 13:59:46 -0500 From: ALABREW Homebrewing Supplies <homebrew at alabrew.com> Subject: bottles I made a post to the BMW motorcycle list and got this e-mail back. I told the sender that I would post it for him on the HBD - please contact him directly at mailto:davep at quik.com davep at davep at quik.com wrote: > I am in Massachusetts, with a 'large number' of > 'long neck' crown cap bottles, available for adoption. > (I was going to use them, then didn't/won't.) > > Can you point me to someone in Mass who might use them? > > (I can 'recycle' them, but would rather see them go > somewhere they can be used.) > > 100 or a bit less, need washing.... 8)>> - -- Kim and Sun Ae Thomson ALABREW Homebrewing Supplies 8916a Parkway East Birmingham, AL 35206 (205) 833-1716 http://www.alabrew.com mailto: homebrew at alabrew.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 15:12:30 -0500 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: flavour extraction Steve Alexander writes: > Louis Bonham > wrote quite a > bit about no-sparge beers that used around 1.5qt/lb total > water(see HBD archives). These beers are quite good, but > I've a hunch (after some tests) that the first batch sparge > also includes important flavor components to approximately > 2.5-3 qt/lb. Above 3qt/lb or so, IMO you are diluting some > positive flavor components and adding greater amounts of > negative ones. My brewing these days puts me much closer to the 1.5 qt/lb figure than the 3 qt/lb. I have worked under the assumption that the more malt you use, the more flavour compounds (not necessarily sugars) can be delivered into your wort. Clearly, for any desired volume and original gravity, the only way to use more malt is to reduce efficiency of sugar collection. Is this a correct assumption? Is flavour extraction separate from the process of leeching out sugars into the surrounding liquid, or do they go hand in hand? IOW, which will give me the most and the best flavour? Using more malt with low efficiency, and making up the volume with plain water; or using less malt with more contact time with sparging liquid, keeping in mind the 3 qt/lb upper limit? Furthermore, do the flavour compounds extracted change as the density of the surrounding liquid drops, thereby creating a more complex flavour profile through sparging than you would get in no-sparge? So many questions, so little time to experiment. Cheers Brian Lundeen Brewing at [314,829] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 13:26:51 -0700 (PDT) From: Rick <ale_brewer at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: SAB buys Miller Brewing In HBD#3953, Jeff Renner wrote: "It may be better for Miller to be a part of a brewing conglomerate rather than a company that makes everything from macaroni and cheese to cigarettes, but it pains me to see any US company go overseas." Jeff, I agree whole-heartedly. But I also see a bright side that others may not. SAB owns Pilsner Urquell. They want to grow it's market share worldwide. With the Miller distribution network in their pocket, I'm hoping we'll see more PU showing up in bars/restaurants than it would otherwise, especially in draught form. One can hope, can't one? Rick Seibt Mentor, OH ale_brewer at yahoo.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 15:57:22 -0500 From: "B Noll" <bnoll123 at hotmail.com> Subject: Basic questions from a newbie Greetings from someone trying to make it in the HB world. A quick history--my first experience with homebrewing came when my wife purchased a MR. BEER mini-keg system. <The crowd gasps> Needless to say, this set-up made a liquid that would lose in a double-blind taste test with river water. After three awful attempts using their instructions, I found Palmer's on-line book about homebrewing. This I hoped would get me on the path to good beer. I am currently waiting on a batch following his instructions, but tailored to a smaller 2-gallon amount. Anyway, with advance apologies to John Asdit and his google suggestions, my question is this: I have purchased a 22-quart aluminum stock pot that I wanted to use as a brew kettle for bigger batches. I decided to boil 2 gallons of water on our electric range as an experiment. It took about 25 minutes to get a weak boil that read 210 deg Fahrenheit on a candy thermometer. I also put the thermometer on the range and got a 275 deg reading. After getting the weak boil I noticed that the inside bottom of the pot was blackened in the shape of the heat coil. Is this all normal? I've read in other posts that electric ranges are insufficient for larger (5 + gallons) and am wondering if this applies to 2-3 gallon sizes. I took a sample of the water and it seemed clear (Is it a good or bad idea to drink the water for test purposes?) Could I use the camper's type portable propane ranges with any better results? The pot was purchased from Target and can easily be returned if anyone has a better suggestion. In defense of such a simple question, I saw no mention in Palmer's book prohibiting the use of electric ranges. Thanks in advance for any suggestions!! Brad In Columbia, MO "Only you can brew beer this good!" - --Mr. Beer "Yeah, right!" - --Me Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:23:07 -0700 (PDT) From: Roy Roberts <psilosome at yahoo.com> Subject: Beer and America American Heritage has published an interesting article on the history of beer in the US (David Craft mentioned this in digest #3946 - I just want to add that the article is available online): http://www.americanheritage.com/AMHER/2002/03/beer.shtml Roy Roberts NYC Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 14:39:38 -0700 From: "Paul Stutzman" <Paul.Stutzman at airborne.com> Subject: Saccharification: 1 step or 2? Greetings, I've noticed that some brewers use 2 rests in the Saccharification range - one rest in the mid to high 140's (F), and another in the high 150's. Most recently I read about this technique when brewing a CAP. Is this method only used when cereal is added to the mash? Is there any benefit to employing a similar mash schedule when brewing all malt beers? Thanks, Paul Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 17:20:55 -0500 From: "Sweeney, David" <David at studentlife.tamu.edu> Subject: Cold Break Removal There was an interesting article in this month's english edition of Brauwelt (2/02). The title of the article was,"Cold break removal from cold wort - yes or no?" by H. Kessler. The article used multiple panels of professional and non-professional tasters in blind tests of identical recipes with and without cold break reduction (removal). The cold break was removed from half the batches during fermenting and starting phases of production. The recipe was a Meister Pils using 90% Scarlett variety barley, well to very well modified (<10.2% protein), brewed at Privat-Brauerei Schmucker. There were many findings in the article, but the one that struck me as the most interesting to home brewers was the following quote: "An additional effect was noted in later tastings of beers in fresh condition after 4 to 6 weeks and after two months. Beers without cold break reduction had superior taste stability compared to beers with cold break reduction. This trend was confirmed by the results of tasting evaluation of slightly aged beer after four to six months..." The blind tasting panels marked little to no difference in freshly tasted beer, but noted superior taste stability in the non-reduced beers over time. This would seem to indicate that cold break left in the fermenter may have a beneficial effect on the long-term taste stability of our beers. The question then becomes, do we lose the benefit of cold break if we transfer to a "secondary" fermenter? Point to remember: Since homebrewers usually "remove" their cold break through transfer to a "secondary" fermenter or carboy, it doesn't necessarily follow that this study would support any negative effect by doing this because in the experiment, they reduced the cold break very early in the fermentation cycle, rather than after what we would term the "primary" fermentation. Food for thought. David Sweeney Texas Aggie Brew Club (TABC) Millican, Texas david at studentlife.tamu.edu [1067.2 mi, 219.8 deg] (Apparent) Rennerian Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Jun 2002 19:26:21 -0400 From: "Joseph S. Gaglio" <jgaglio at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Widgets Read all about it at: http://www.howstuffworks.com/question446.htm There are also some interesting links there. Wassail, joe - -- Yours in truth, Joseph S. Gaglio MHS http://members.tripod.com/~The_Holeyman/TheHoleymansHome.html "They counted on being able to punish them into being better, on being able to inspire them into being better, on being able to educate them into being better. And after ten thousand years of trying to improve people, without a trace of success -- they wouldn't dream of turning their attention elsewhere." Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 22:39:06 -0500 From: blutick at juno.com Subject: Call for NHC Judges and Stewards There's a pretty good home brew competition coming to Texas this month and we'd love to have you there. Its the second round of the AHA National Homebrew Competition, of course, and I'm serving as judge coordinator. I'm taking early registrations of judges and stewards so I don't get bogged down with paperwork at the event and miss all the fun! We'll do the judging in two sessions. The first session takes place Thursday, June 20, starting at 1:30 PM. The second session takes place Friday, June 21, starting at 8:30 AM. If you plan to attend and wish to steward or judge this competition, please send a message to blutick at juno.com and let me know which sessions you'll be available for, whether you want to judge or steward, your category preferences and dislikes, and your BJCP ranking (if you are ranked). I'll do the best I can to see that you get a category that you like. Jim Layton Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Jun 2002 23:03:18 -0500 From: "Gary Smith" <mandolinist at interlync.com> Subject: Cheap but good pH meter? Hi, I'm thinking I should get a pH meter. I was given a portable one but it's pretty beat up & the probe looks like there's a layer on it. I can't trust it so I never use it. Is there a cheap but good one that I might look for? I suppose auto temperature compensation is a good thing for it to have. I'm pretty clueless in this department. Thanks, Gary Gary Smith http://musician.dyndns.org Most of us know how to say nothing--few of us know when. Return to table of contents
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