HOMEBREW Digest #3965 Mon 17 June 2002

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  CACA/NACA/CCCA ("Alan McKay")
  Spoiled Results - Argh! ("Greg Smith")
  Re: death of a refrigerator (Kelly Grigg)
  Dead refrigerator (David Towson)
  mash tun design/propane thanks ("Laura Barrowman")
  Crescent City Brewery in New Orleans ("Dave Burley")
  re: methanol ("Steve Alexander")
  re: 2 row ("Steve Alexander")
  Open Fermentation and Battonage ("Martamail Perez")
  propane tank xchg/pressure cookers ("Laura Barrowman")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 09:02:29 -0400 (EDT) From: "Alan McKay" <amckay at neap.net> Subject: CACA/NACA/CCCA jeff renner writes : > Wahl and Henius refer to it by these names in 1902. Ben Jankowski, > in his Brewing Techniques article "Cream Ale - An American Classic," > writes "As to who coined the phrase "cream ale," no evidence points > to any one individual. I believe the phrase was used by various > breweries at the fairs and expositions that occurred in various > cities in the late nineteenth century." The problem with citing this as any kind of authoritative reference should be obvious : the author is already working on the assumption that Cream Ale is a USAmerican invention. Just look at the title of the article. I seem to recall when this article was printed I sent an email to BT with details on the Sleeman claim to the term, and it was all news to them. It goes without saying that if the assumption going into the article was that Cream Ale is a US invention, that they would not have done any research whatsoever outside of the US. Around the time of that article this topic was discussed either here or in r.c.b. - I don't recall which. I seem to recall there may have been a somewhat believable reference in the US which disputed the Sleeman claim, but that was a long time ago and memory fades. Perhaps someone will dig up that reference again, if indeed my memory serves correctly and it did exist. The Sleeman claim at least is well documented in the family brewing tradition. A quick deja search finds the thread in r.c.b here : http://makeashorterlink.com/?M36B22011 Unfortunately that thread does not contain the quasi-plausible reference I was talking about above. So for lack of a better reference, I'd have to say Sleeman gets the prize. cheers, -Alan - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site&#153; Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:46:27 -0400 From: "Greg Smith" <barnbrew at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Spoiled Results - Argh! Fellow Brewers, Lately I've been having some bad luck brewing. I follow procedures that I've followed (successfully) for years, but seem to end up with a funky smelling beer. I have added a few steps in hopes of fixing my problems, but with no results. I have noticed that my last two fermentations started rather slowly (I was out of town for the previous batches). I'm wondering if this led to the wort getting funky before the fermentation actually began. The beer has that sour, funky smell that I know is the result of a bad batch. At first I thought it was the city water, so I even buy spring water from the grocery store now. For my latest batch, I used a brand new yeast (Wyeast pitchable tube), thinking the earlier batches got a yeast that was too old. I'm meticulous with sanitation and I even boil some of my equipment to make sure it's super clean. I aerate the wort with O2 (through a sanitary filter) to give the yeast a head start. Just about the only thing I haven't done for a faster starting fermentation is to prepare a starter the day before brewing (although the yeast starter set is on my shopping list). Am I missing something obvious? This is getting very frustrating. I'm not giving up, but it's been very discouraging lately. I've even been on the verge of buying commercial beer! I had to dump a 10-gallon batch that got a layer of mold on top sometime along the way (I was using a stainless conical, so I couldn't see inside 'til I went to bottle). Dumping it brought a tear to my eye, but I'm sure that drinking it would have done more than that to me. Many thanks for any insight you can provide. Private email is fine, as well as posting replies here in the digest. Thanks, Greg "BarnBrew Brewing Co." Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 11:18:05 -0500 From: Kelly Grigg <kgrigg at diamonddata.com> Subject: Re: death of a refrigerator Howdy!! I'm originally from Arkansas too...the use for the old fridge should be obvious...make a smoker out of it!! The seals are good for holding smoke in...and the metal racks...good for holding sausages and ribs and such... You need to put a hole in the top for smoke to leave...and a firebox outside the fridge...with a pipe to run smoke into the bottom of the fridge. And...good slow smoked food goes GREAT with beer!! You can use this for 'cold' smoking...to do cheeses and stuff. Do some web searching...I'm sure I've seen plans for this out there before... Good Luck!! Kelly ps. What part of AR are you in? I'm currently living in New Orleans. > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 11:48:29 -0500 > From: "Chuck Dougherty" <jdougherty at wlj.com> > Subject: death of a refrigerator <snip> > > Also, it occurs to me that while the compressor on the refrigerator may > be dead, I still have a perfectly good metal box. Does anybody have any > creative ideas for how to use a dead refrigerator for something beer > related? At worst it seems I now have a two-compartment, mouse-proof > storage bin. > > Chuck Dougherty > Little Rock, Arkansas > - ------------------ Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright until you hear them speak. - ------------------ - -----BEGIN PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK----- Version: 2.6.3ia mQEIAj0A9s8AAAEH0QGFBm+w6xNOhyQdjJTdeY2tZISjAj80aOWYKV9CbmkMdQ5W mG/EE5d7wc1q1kqlurlr3gb6UHgIFBohUjfv1UrRMV0NqcXyGOSoWuLW9S7juDtg Rfbe3wYia1Pi3YwAbDwWYBV9i5Jk6LhB+FIul8gDc+XKsk8baw2jO1opPYzJzgP1 Hxi2ms/YDpWBNA2a+SPvW1lYHKWxh/iu69TN3pzhhbMR4CNJuhO8AEzfT9k5CoQu D/j8FhC89gh2U4sn5Gn4g+23G+Uk8wesHdWk10jk+hHaTxnRZK7JPS7XVzr4Gvzv ndKduNGSUM1K0TPg5AGQm8dO2F8TtWvdAAUTtBZrZ3JpZ2dAZGlhbW9uZGRhdGEu Y29tiQEQAgUQPQD2z8dO2F8TtWvdAQFP9QfRARTDay1BvBDkVk4Xx2Hebji2YeMq qIzQZDJfkLwoO1mcCJjIEUuGqHtCgKEYS6QbZQrSyTW1hl35p/4yp7pjskzAqxuh FsB+QwQeG3ScDqcKC2jggdGb/ROtBBJ+HMFen5ZNB4mlVvOMpQ88QPJh3m+SLNud jTtpAQ7pvcrZTIoTl4ltqgKOAKw80LxO2Ow5aOCRb+kpgJtTVzbO7FR9lS6VNPY2 yaqCEBu2UMMltB7XTScGP/NPCIC3YKdSzU4aelabeIYuUqgHPuHOB+QDL96hjJWz M6o9LQJrNtE33UMLwYGCT7exLd1mrR+wDYORkrV1wmCAkSkr1qQ= =/Ovf - -----END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK----- Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 15:50:27 -0400 From: David Towson <spamsink at comcast.net> Subject: Dead refrigerator In HBD 3964, Chuck Dougherty writes about a dead refrigerator. If this machine is of the frost-free type, I suggest you check the timer that controls the automatic defrosting. These timers have contacts that switch quite a bit of current. They carry the compressor current during the "normal" part of the cycle, and the defrost heater current during the "defrost" cycle. Over time, the contacts get very "chewed up" (burned and pitted). This can cause either of two failure modes: (1) the contacts weld together, making the thing stick in one mode forever, or (2) they get so pitted that they no longer make contact at all. If the contacts weld in the "defrost" position, then the box actually gets warm instead of cold because the heater keeps running until it either burns out or trips an over-temperature thermostat. In the latter case, the over-temperature thermostat eventually welds due to excessive cycling, and then the heater keeps running until it burns out anyway. The sum and substance of this story is that your compressor may not be bad; it just may not be getting any electricity. If you find the timer to be the cause, I strongly recommend that you replace it, rather than try to file/resurface the contacts, as you'll never be able to really repair the timer, and replacing defrost heaters can be very costly and difficult depending on the design of the box. I am speaking from bitter experience here. Dave in Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 15 Jun 2002 18:31:25 -0400 From: "Laura Barrowman" <llbarrowman at hotmail.com> Subject: mash tun design/propane thanks Thanks to all who helped me figure out how to tell if my propane was leaking. I recall putting my bicycle inner tubes under water to look for leaks, when I was ~10. Too many dead brain cells to remember back that far. I have been building a new mash tun with much design help from HBD'er Bob Scheck. Smashing fella! He's off an vacation so I would like to ask the collective how high up I should put the false bottom. I have it on 2" legs which seems a little excessive, as I only have 8" of usable height. How low can I go? Should my false bottom be really level? Or just sort of? The bottom of my mash tun slopes to a drain in the center. BTW, my mash tun is a SS rectangular insulated box, ~18x20x12" deep. There are a row of holes ~8" from the bottom. The box was used with a chill plate for serving sodas many years ago. Thanks all, Laura in NC Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 08:25:57 -0400 From: "Dave Burley" <Dave_Burley at charter.net> Subject: Crescent City Brewery in New Orleans Brewsters: I haven't been to the Big Easy for a few years, but have fond memories of the brews from the Crescent City Brewery/Brewpub. They were my pick from many brewpubs I visited in a swing along the East coast and through the South/Southeastern US with a British buddy. My recollection is that they were the only ones ( or least one of the few) who did not use the hopelessly tasteless ( and the ruin of many a brewpub, IMHO) 1056 yeast. Hope they are still there diagonally across the street from the Cafe du Monde. I particularly liked the German style lagers from a Weihanstefan trained brewer, but all the beers I tasted were excellent. Keep on Brewin' Dave Burley. Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 11:03:33 -0400 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: methanol JohanNico from Holland asks ... >Steve Alexander, <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> wrote in HBD 3960 about >the tiny amounts of methanol in beer "Some carbohydrates, pectins in >particular, have attached methyl groups". >Steve, what about the amylopectins ? (80 % of the starch in malt). The word pectin comes from a Greek root meaning 'coagulate'. Pectins coagulate fruit juices when making jellies and pies, and amylopectins from grain flour are used to thicken sauces as in a roux. Both polysaccharides perform this thickening by trapping water molecules with ionic bonds among their branched forms. Otherwise the chemistry is quite dissimilar. Pectin is a linear chain-like polymer with a primarily galacturonic base (like galactose but with a carboxyl group off the ring) connected with 1-4 links and many very short side branches which usually include other minor sugar bases(arabinose, xylose...). The main chain also includes about 10% rhamnose. Anyway some of the carboxyl groups of the main chain are esterified with methyl groups and .... free methanol results from it's fermentation. Amylopectin is much simpler - glucose bases are connected with 1-4 links and about 4% of these also branch with a 1-6 link. 4% is a very high figure so amylopectin is highly branched. The terminal non-reducing ends often have attached phosphates. No methyl groups in amylopectin. Tiny amounts of pectin-like carbohydrates appear in barley cell walls. The methanol that appears in grain based beverages may also have it's origins in methyl groups from barley stem material. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 11:29:44 -0400 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: re: 2 row Darrell Leavitt notes.... > I just spoke to Bryan Bechard, NorthCountry Malt Supply yesterday, and he >pointed out that the diastatic power >of some 2 row is not as high as some others...and that, for instance, using >Maris Otter (Fawcetts) might not be as >good for brews that are higher in adjuncts (corn/rice) ...that one should >either use 2 row that has more enzymes, or >use 6 row... > > I don't ordinarily consult the malt spec sheets much before planning a >brew...but think that I should... I think you are missing a major point. Pale-ale malts are referred to as "high kilned" malts because they undergo a kilning at 60-95C and sometimes a kilnoff at around 110C, whereas lager malts and US made base malts are kilned at only 55-70C. The result is that PA malts have a darker color, a toasty flavor and far less diastatic power, particularly less beta-amylase. It's common for PA malts to have only 50-60% as much diastatic power as a lager or US base malts and this makes PA malt a poor choice when converting a lot of starch adjunct. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 14 Jun 2002 05:10:46 -0400 (EDT) From: "Martamail Perez" <martamail at excite.com> Subject: Open Fermentation and Battonage Hi! It's my first time brewing mead and i've been suggested to use an unusual proceed (at least, I haven't read it anywere on net) and I would like to know what do you think about it, in general terms it's like that: for fermentation i've been suggested to use an oak barrel filled at 9/10 parts (so, leaving a 1/10 part empty) and put the cap on it (or an air lock). When S.G falls 30 points you've to extract an small amount of fermenting must to a jug and then incorporate it again to the barrel. When S.G falls another 30 points, add the activeur. After that, i've been suggested to make a "battonage" every week for 30 seconds: beating the must with a kind of stick to move the sediment and evite autolysys... After the fermentation, add new sulfites (3 or 4 grs./1 hectolitre.). More Battonages every 2 weeks during 3 months and, after that 3 egg white for each 255 lts. and a last battonage 5 days before new moon. Add vinoflow. When in new moon, change to a smaller barrel full at all. Aging. As you can see, racking are replaced by battonage (they say that it's effective against autolysys and off-tastes!!) and must just remains on the same barrel till the end of fermentation. If anyone has tried or think it can be used, please reply. Thank you very much Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 16 Jun 2002 14:59:50 -0400 From: "Laura Barrowman" <llbarrowman at hotmail.com> Subject: propane tank xchg/pressure cookers I wish I could recall who told me to exchange my old propane tanks at Wal-Mart. It was only $12.96 for a full tank with the new overfill device. I couldn't believe they took my four old rusty, out-dated tanks, but they did. Thank you for the recommendation! I have a question about pressure cookers/canners. I have a 16 qt. canner that I have been using for ~5 years. It has always had a bumped out bottom. Lately I have been having problems with it running out of water before I'm done processing, no matter how much I put in. Could my cajun cooker be putting a bit too much heat on the poor devil? I thought it might be my gasket but as I was snooping around online, I found info saying that if your cooker doesn't have a flat bottom it has been damaged and isn't safe to use. My mother gave it to me & I'm guessing she got it used. I am thinking of just replacing the whole unit. Anyone have a great source for a new one? Thanks all, Laura in NC Return to table of contents
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