---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org


***************************************************************
       THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: 

          Northern  Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies
        http://www.northernbrewer.com  1-800-681-2739

    Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site!
********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html *********


Contents:
  descriptions redux ("dave sapsis")
  Fridge Design & Hop Growing Questions (Erika & Nils)
  Kutscher Alt ("Fred Waltman")
  re: SLAMDOWN!/FWonlyH/Re: Sparge Water ("Steve Alexander")
  Free Ferm Chiller and Plastic Conical (Todd Goodman)
  HBD at NHC (mohrstrom)
  Re: Spoiled Results - Argh! ("Greg Smith")
  Dixie Blackened Voodoo: Need a clone recipe (Kelly Grigg)
  Questions on Double Bucket Sparging Systems (long) (Luke Enriquez)
  feed and bleed force carbonation (Rob Dewhirst)
  Stupid beer tricks conical ("Stephen Weiss")
  Darrell's Oatmeal Stout (davidson richard)
  Briess Munich 10 ("Bruce Garner")
  Great Taste sold out ("Bruce Garner")
  adding minerals to the mash ("David Craft")
  San Diego Brewpubs ("Skip Virgilio")


*
* Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! 
* http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping
*
* Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy!
*

Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org

If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!!

To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word
  "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL
  ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!**
IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to
  the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address
  for the automation - that's your job.

HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at
http://hbd.org.

The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright 
  HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK 
  before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content 
  cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit.

More information is available by sending the word "info" to 
req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org.

JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)



----------------------------------------------------------------------


Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 21:43:09 -0700
From: "dave sapsis" <dsapsis at earthlink.net>
Subject: descriptions redux

Pat is, of course, correct.  The broken link context for the Damm comparison
comes from having simply extracted a portion of a narrative, and as
presented is a bit confusing.  After all, what the heck is a "Damm negra"?
Well, its a entirely different dark lager,  one produced by Cerveceria Damm
in
Barcelona (the makers of Estrella, a nice golden lager and  the region's
leading
product).  Interested folks can read the whole two part episode at
http://www.bayareamashers.org/news/index.htm in the December 01 and Jan 02
newsletters.

I'd like to make a couple general points.  One, this type of narrative is
substantially different than the language usage I favor on scoresheets.  The
evaluations are not blind, not designed to give a "score" per se, but more
fashioned to be descriptive of the beer *and* the situation/environment it
was drank in.  They are meant to convey not only the beer experience, but
the total story, complete with emotions and cultural flavor.  While the
descriptive lexicon can be similar in actual competition type circumstances,
I would never make a comment like " too sweet for the mood I am in" on a
scoresheet.   We are working on a piece for the BJCP website which will have
some examples of fine (and possibly not so fine) scoresheets so folks a)
know what is expected to score well; and b) what components are required to
give the brewer a fair and
effective evaluation.

The second point concerns the lexicon itself.  A number of folks have made
the case we need an established list of terms from which to base our
descriptions.  I think that Morton Mielgaard's work largely does that for
the major common flavor elements, and goes a long at cognating the
source of the flavors.  Further, I think that most sharp people out there
already have a huge, untapped set of terms based on a lifetime of eating and
smelling stuff.  If I were to place ground vanilla bean, saffron, flowering
jasmine, black pepper, or ripe cantaloupe under your (blindfolded) nose, I
would hope most of you would be either spot on or close in describing the
aroma.

It is patently true that two people may use different terms to describe the
same sensation.  Partly this may be do to different receptors, and partly to
different ways of cognating and describing things.  A long time ago, Al K
disagreed with my term "toasty" to describe the aromas from worts made with
large percentages of Munich malt.  He had a different term, I cannot
remember what, but it was equally specific and justified.

Finally, the notion of more complete/complex/definitive descriptions for the
BJCP guidelines is a double edged sword.  IMO,  folks already look at those
guidelines far too rigidly, and tend to use them as an crutch or an excuse
for actually doing the work of independently perceiving and cognating
flavors and aromas.  Unfortunately, many judges simply cannot find their own
way to describe sensations, and appear to fall back on only the commonest of
beer terms whether they are perceived or not.  One would think I had a
corner on the DMS market judging by many of the sheets I get back (how many
of those folks really, truly have done dosing trials with DMS?)

While Klein obviously muddies his descriptions, and MJ often uses the some
terms over and over, I have found Garret Oliver's beer evaluations (found in
All About Beer) to be consistently effective, and lyrical too.  While
recently discussing the All Things Considered piece on beer with a brewer
friend, Oliver's comments were praised as being well delivered.  My comment
back was I always have found him to be very good at describing beers, albeit
coming off as somewhat erudite.  My friend chimes back: "Perfect! for NPR! "

Salud,
- -- dave, sacramento



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:47:28 -0700
From: Erika & Nils <erikanls at pacbell.net>
Subject: Fridge Design & Hop Growing Questions

Hi,
  I've got a side-by-side fridge/freezer combo that I've got a temp control
on for fermenting.  Unfortunately, the freezer portion is too narrow to
anything other than a 3 gal carboy to fit in.  Even with the freezer at the
warmest setting, it still gets cold enough to freeze water.  Does anyone
know what may be in the dividing wall between the fridge & freezer?  I was
thinking of at least drilling some holes at the bottom of the wall, if not
cut a chunk out, to allow the freezer air to help cool the fridge part.

  Also, I'm trying to grow some hops for the 1st time this year.  How much
water do they need each day?  I know it can very quite a bit based on
environment, but a round estimate would be a big help.  I finally set up a
drip system & have it water the hops with 1 gal per day.  I live in
Sacramento, CA where it will soon be getting up over 100 for weeks at a
time, if that helps.

Thanks,
Nils



Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 17 Jun 2002 22:51:01 -0700
From: "Fred Waltman" <fwaltman at attbi.com>
Subject: Kutscher Alt

Byron asks in #3966
> 
> I'm trying to find a recipe for an Alt. that is made in Germany.
> 
> It's Called Kutcher Alt  and made at the Bending Brewery.
> 
 
The Binding Group is the largest brewery group in Germany, owners of
such brands and DAB, Kindl, Kronen and many others. I found this
marketing description of Kutscher Alt:

"A mixture of light and dark barley malt gives it its dark amber color
while the top-fermenting yeast contributes the fresh aromatic scent  and
taste. The beer specialty Kutscher Alt is dark, aromatic and 
 is characterized by weak hop bitterness and a dense, rich head with
good retention. The original gravity is about 11.7% (Plato), with  an
alcohol content of approximately 5.0% alc./vol. "
 
Which doesn't tell us a whole lot. To be honest, I have never had this
beer or even been in a place that sells it (I have seen ads for it). The
pictures in the ads show a Duesseldorf style alt glass, so I would start
with any good alt recipe and tone down the bittering hops and go from
there.

Fred Waltman
Culver City Home Brewing Supply (LA Area)
www.BrewSupply.com  www.LABeer.com www.StickeWarriors.com



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 06:59:40 -0400
From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: re: SLAMDOWN!/FWonlyH/Re: Sparge Water

Mark Tumarkin writes

>The NHC [...]  So
>you're turning into a fight promoter, huh? Well, Steve A is an obvious
>contender, people'll be lining up to take a pop at him.

Think we could turn (verbal only) sparring into an NHC event Mark ?

It's amusing and amazing  that pointing to an obvious misreading or
providing evidence that a particular flavor implies a particular cause
such a personal affront that people can't respond to this issue but must
instead invoke all sorts of off topic arguments and/or descend to slander ?

I'd suggest that reading anything about intelligent discourse from
Socrates' Xenaphon to Robert's 'Rules of Order' would be an eye
opening event for many - but of course the courtship of the Alaskan
Bimbos is on reality TV and who can be bothered to think about
about what they write ?

Read like a butterfly - write like a bee  ;^)


>I want to invite you, Steve, and any other HBDers,  to take part in another
>slamdown, [...]  singlemalt
[...]
>see y'all in Dallas,

My schedule won't permit, but Dallas NHC will have many interesting
events (I'm a SMS &  whisk[e]y fan too).  Should be great.
================================================

I applaud Pete Calinski's suggestion that we think more about hops
flavor/aroma/bitterness - so here are some thoughts as it relates to some
FWH tests.    Hops have considerable amounts of phenolics which largely
remain in the break as the types involved are particularly apt to bind to
protein.  Hops obviously have humulones and lupulones that contribute
bitterness - tho' the lupulones give a harsher and less pleasant bitterness.
Hops contribute considerable esters - particularly the late hop additions
where the esters aren't boiled off.  The esters are responsible for much of
the floral and even fruity aroma character from hops.  Also hops have
numerous oils - mercene, pinene, geraniol and dozens more that I *think* are
most responsible for the flavor, but also some parts of the aroma.  The oils
seem to be the factor that makes the hops so very appetizing, mouth
watering.

I have over the past few months brewed two beer which used FWH
as the only hops addition.   One was a medium gravity APA style and
the other a czech style pils.   Well two CZ pil's really with a little
different hop treatment.

My intention was to try to understand the flavor addition made by
FWH addition by isolating that part of the hopping.  My observation is that
FWH seems to strip both the negative harsh effects of late addition and also
much of the floral estery character but preserves the flavor I associate
with oils.  Also that some of the IBUs are apparently lost from FWH.

The ale I made was generously hopped and tho'it had a quite likable hop
character it was entirely different from an ale with a late hop addition.
I wouldn't be tempted to use FWH alone for most ales.   The ale initially
had a remarkable clear & clean hop flavor, but like many hoppy beers the hop
flavor faded somewhat over the first few weeks. Still good but ...

The two pil's were otherwise identical, but one I made an attempt to form
hop oil epoxides (see Hubert Hanghofer's post on FWH chemistry) by
pretreating the hops with acidified h-peroxide.    This difference in
treatment doesn't seem to have made much difference in the final flavor -
the treated one may have a slightly stronger hops flavor but it's not a
great difference.  No difference in general hop character.

The pils' had a fine clean tho' subdued hop flavor character and  I would
consider using it again.   I don't believe one can achieve the hops flavor
level of a SamAdams Lager with FWH alone, but if your looking for a more
subtle effect FWH alone might achieve it.

Overall I have to say that both beers have lower IBU bitterness than I would
have expected from the AAUs and boil times - perhaps 15% lower.   A hunch is
that some of the IBUs are lost to the break material.

The 'standard' FWH schedule that JeffR described with some hops in the FW
and more late in the boil is probably the right thing for increasing the
flavor/oil contribution compared to the estery floral contribution of the
hops - and to my taste that seems most appropriate for a pils or other beer
that begs for a refined but bold hops flavor.

Flavor/aroma impact of dry hopping is to my taste harsh and out of place in
a lager but appropriate for many ale styles where hops flavor is the primary
feature.  I'm not sure why dry hopping produces such raucous & rough
flavors - perhaps the high ester levels and some phenolics.  That's another
topic tho'.  Can anyone describe that difference ?
======
Martin Brungard writes ...

>pH adjustment for sparge water is used to supposedly reduce tannin leaching
>during the sparge.  I wonder about the merit of the practice when hardness
>minerals are added to the water.

I think Martin's point is that the mineral additions used to control pH
are often ineffective and/or impact yeast or even mash performance - and
that certainly can happen.

I've asked Martin offline how is Kolbach RA defined, and received his answer
at about the same moment I  found that John Palmer's handy brewing book 'How
to Brew' covers it's use & definition.    Basically that RA is the amount of
mash alkalinity in excess of that counteracted by the calcium and
magnesium's precipitation of phytin.

Kolbach RA = Alkalinity - calcium/3.5 - magnesium/7  (all in
milliequivalents/L)

Kolbach(Kohlbach?)  we are told determined that 3.5 milliequivalent (70ppm
of calcium) per liter or 7milliequivalent (85ppm) of magnesium will
precipitate sufficient phytin [see the Alan Meek/AJ deLange exchange on
phytin/phytase in the archives]  to neutralize 1 milliquivalent of
alkalinity (61ppm of bicarb).

It's a useful concept and worth examining, but it's should also be mentioned
that not all pale malts contain active phytase and not all mashes contain
enough phytin to counteract water alkalinity.  The equation doesn't account
for this, but instead assumes phytin is always available.

My old water source was a notch softer than Martin's and my current very
similar to his and these not-too-hard not-too-alkaline waters it's often
impossible to achieve a good mash pH by mineral addition alone - there isn't
always enough phytin available in the mash and not enough dark malt acidity.
Also the equation doesn't help sparge pH much as the sparge is presumably
low in phytin.

The other problem with mineral additions is that whether you are adding a
chloride salt or a sulfate of the hardness metals you may be affecting the
beer flavor with the excess sulfate or chloride.

Acid additions are a more reliable solution and preferable  unless the
mineral additions are desired (e.g. making burton-like water).

 -S




Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:51:28 -0400
From: Todd Goodman <tgoodman at bonedaddy.net>
Subject: Free Ferm Chiller and Plastic Conical

I've had to pack up my brew stuff temporarily and have a Son of
Fermentation Chiller (purchased the kit and put it together) and the
little 5 gallon plastic conical fermentor available free to anyone who
wants to pick them up.

I'm only getting rid of the Son of Fermentation Chiller because it's
too large to store, and I intend get a chest freezer once I can bring
things out of storage.  It works fine.

Also, if anyone's interested, I have about ten cases of brown crown top
bottles.  Most still have the labels on.

I'm in Westford, MA.

Todd
[630.3, 84 Apparent Rennerian]


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:58:40 -0400
From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com
Subject: HBD at NHC

Well kids, it's time to head for Texas ...

I apologize for the late posting, but I suggest that the HBD denizens in
attendance at the National Homebrewer's Conference gather for the breaking
of bread.  Looking at the schedule, there are several open meals - how
'bout Dinner on Thursday?


Mark in Kalamazoo





Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 09:12:08 -0400
From: "Greg Smith" <barnbrew at ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Spoiled Results - Argh!


<< From: Demonick <demonick at zgi.com>
<<
<< Greg, we need a few more details.  All-grain, partial, or extract brews?
<< Plastic or glass or metal fermenters?  How do you sanitize?  Replaced
your
<< plastic tubing lately?  Do full boils?  How long?  Are you not using a
<< starter with 10 gallon batches?  How many successful batches have you
done?
<< Is your equipment clean?  Meticulous sanitation is only effective on
<< equipment that is clean - no dried gunk - no gurge lurking in the corners
<< or cracks or crevices.  How do you aerate?  When you say O2, do you
really
<< mean a tank of oxygen?

My apologies to Domenick and everyone else that couldn't read my mind.  My
super telepathetic powers were merely pathetic.  I realized after sending
the post that I didn't give enough details.  My post looks like a quick "I
do this and this and this, now help me" email.  I didn't want to post a huge
message, but that doesn't look avoidable.  I've received several replies
with suggestions and I certainly appreciate them.  Here are more details...

For the batches in question, they were extract brews, using some grain as a
"teabag" to start.  I've done 2-stage in glass, and I've used my 12-gallon
stainless conical (the conical produced the last two bad batches, the glass
had two others that were "iffy" at best.  I store my carboys in a bleach
water solution, so they're always ready to rinse and use.  I let my conical
sit overnight in an Iodophor solution for the most recent batch, to make it
"extra" clean.  I take off the conical's valves and clean and boil them
twice - after every batch leaves the conical, and again the day of brewing
the next batch.  And I use a brush to clean the valve holes on the conical.

I am going to replace my tubing anyway, but for the conical, I did not use
the tubing.  I drain sediment off the bottom valve.  The batches went bad
without touching my tubing (which looks as clean as it was new, but I'm
going to replace it anyway).  I use brushes on everything where I can see
"something" to make sure they're clean.

I do a full hour of boiling if not longer.  I'm already dedicating the day
to brewing anyway, so I'm in no rush.  I've never used starters (although
I'm going to buy the set to use them in the future).  For the ten-gallon
batch, I used two yeast vials from WhiteLabs.  Admittedly, they were old, so
I used a fresh Wyeast pitchable tube on the next batch (5-gal.), following
the same procedures.  It wasn't moldy like the 10-gallon batch, but it still
had that spoiled smell.

I use an immersion chiller, which I boil with the wort for at least 15
minutes.  The city water isn't too cold, so I user another immersion chiller
in ice water as a "pre-chiller."  The water flows through the pre-chiller
then the chiller in the wort, and down the drain.  So, I'm not using a CFC.
Actually, I'm intentionally not using a CFC because I try to use things that
are easier to clean to avoid contamination.  I'm not lazy, I just like to
have as little risk as possible and I can't see inside a CFC to ease my mind
that it's clean.

I've been brewing for over 6 years and have made many successful batches.  I
used to brew in upstate NY, with spring water as my water source.  Now I'm
in FL, using city water.  I thought that might be the source, so I've used
bottled spring water from the grocery store for the last two batches - both
of which went bad.  I've added some steps (like the O2, which I'll get to
here shortly) to make a better beer.  Even before the "new steps," a couple
of batches were "iffy" like I said, so that's why I started using O2 and
filtering (although my beer's been spoiled before I even get to
filtering/bottling.)

For aerating, I use an O2 tank with an inline sanitary filter (the sanitary
filter from B3).  I boil the hose and stone for at least 15 minutes before
using (usually 20 minutes).  I put it in for a full minute.

I received a reply from Dennis Waltman, a subscriber, and he asked if I
flame the yeast container lip before dumping it in.  I wash the yeast
container (usually a Wyeast smack pack), then soak it sanitizer before using
it.  However, since Dennis asked that, I've been trying to recall
specifically whether I did that for my last batch or two.  I can't remember,
to be honest.  I don't know if I can't remember because it's such a habit or
because I didn't do it.  It could very well be that I didn't do it.

Well, I hope that gives a few more details and I hope you're still awake.
Thanks for all the replies I've received.  It's made me rethink what I've
been doing to see where the contamination's coming in.  I'm still not sure
where it is yet, but I'm taking a closer look.

 -Greg



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:54:03 -0500
From: Kelly Grigg <kgrigg at diamonddata.com>
Subject: Dixie Blackened Voodoo: Need a clone recipe

Anybody out there got a clone recipe for Dixie Beer's Blackened
Voodoo? I had some again the other day, and thought this would be
fun to make.

I need a recipe for all grain....10 gallon batch.

TIA!!

Kelly
- -- 


- ------------------

Light travels faster than sound. This is why some people appear bright
until you hear them speak.

- ------------------

- -----BEGIN PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK-----
Version: 2.6.3ia
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=/Ovf
- -----END PGP PUBLIC KEY BLOCK-----


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 08:11:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Luke Enriquez <vk3em at yahoo.com>
Subject: Questions on Double Bucket Sparging Systems (long)

I've spent the last two nights searching HBD archives
on this topic, and would like to ask a few more
questions to those with knowledge and experience in
this area. 

Setup (current) - A 25 liter food grade bucket, 
drum tap and electric kettle element mounted in
bottom, false bottom (made from the last 10 cms of
another food grade bucket) with hundreds of 2.5mm
holes(ala ZAPAP but with a heat source). Grain bag
used to line inside of bucket(ala Miller). Entire
setup used for mashing and sparging. Once insulated
with foam, setup loses 0.5 deg cel  at  66 deg cel over 
a 2 hour period. False bottom dead space (3.5 liters).

Problem - Sparge takes a very long time to clear
(about 40 mins of recirculating). This means, 
extra oxidation of hot wort occurs and extra
work. Minimal heat loss occurs (and can be corrected
with heating element). No concerns about stuck sparges
when used properley (see below). No grains or husks in
runoff, just coagulated type material.

Comments found or implied in HBD archives :

1) Use a picnic cooler with slotted manifold

Heaps of info about building these. However, I don't
do large brews, dont want to spend the extra money,
like the temp control facilities of the double bucket
with kettle element and its easy to clean. I'd prefer
to modify my setup to make it work. 

2) Don't use a grain bag.

The grain bag saved me once, when I got a stuck sparge
when I let the grain bed run dry. 

I believe some of my problem is caused by fines
slipping down between the grain bag and bucket wall.
Other people comment that if the grain bag is too
small, it will form an inverse conical shape which is
hopeless for sparging. 

Goal is to eliminate grain bag, at least between the
bucket wall and grain bed. Do I really need it anyway?
Maybe slots instead of holes could eliminate the grain
bag. 

3) Fill the dead space with something to reduce its
volume. The HBD comment was that this definantly
reduces the time for the wort to run clear. No reason
as to why. When I lift the false bottom after a
sparge, a large amount coagulated material is under
their, which is what must be floating out and taking a
long time to clear. 

Could I be creating the coagulated material when I use
the heating element to bring the mass to temp. I
always recirculate when heating, but the element does
get hot. I ensure the element is on in short bursts
only, and have never found signs of burning or
scortching.

Reducing the dead space will also increase extration.

Comments welcome?

4) Use slots, not holes and no grain bag. Seems to
work in picnic coolers. I've got a Dremmel tool
attachment that could put slots in another plastic
false bottom with ease. Is this worth a try? 

5) How clear is clear? There is a definate change from
cloudy to clear with coagulated matter. There is a
long, slow, painful change to crystal clear with no
coagulated matter. At what point do I stop
re-circulating and start collecting?

All interest is welcome.

(and what a great resource those HBD archives are).

Regards
Luke





Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 13:03:06 -0500
From: Rob Dewhirst <rob at hairydogbrewery.com>
Subject: feed and bleed force carbonation

I was working on a home-brew version of the "Zahm and Nagel feed and bleed" 
system described in _An_Analysis...

I tried to find similar systems others had built but can't find them with 
the usual net searches. Perhaps they are called something different?

My main question is one of procedure.  Fix's description is a bit 
short.  Is the low pressure bleed off a constant bleed off or does it occur 
only in the one to two minute 10-12 psi "feeding" sessions?  Also, how does 
one prevent the outflow bleed-off from foaming out badly?  My 0.5 micron SS 
stone foams all beer pretty quickly.

Also, I am a bit skeptical of this procedure that claims to carbonate beer 
fully in a couple of hours.  



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 14:31:14 -0400
From: "Stephen Weiss" <stephen_weiss at emoryhealthcare.org>
Subject: Stupid beer tricks conical

I made my own SS conical with a hopper and top from 
toledometalspinning, I drilled a hole in the bottom with 
a step drill and installed a Zymeco dump valve. 
I made a stand of a wood base with stick on tile 
for easy clean-up, risers of 2*2 wood and another 
piece of wood cut out in a circle with a jig saw 
at the top to hold the conical. I used silicone 
aquarium tubing to make a gasket for the top. 
All told I was in the hole about $120. Looking 
at the ads most conicals have a racking port, but 
this would cost me almost as much as all of the 
above and reqired another hole and all its worries 
(cleaning, leaking, etc) , soooo. I found that my 
racking cane fit snugly inside a nylon NPT to tubing 
connector. A racking time I squirted the valve 
opening with iodophor solution and attached 
the sanitized connector with a 5" piece of racking 
tube in it, from wence ran plastic tubing with a 
pinch valve. I screwed it on, opened the dump 
valve, advanced the racking tube 4" into the 
fermentor and opened the pinch valve. Except 
for a 1/8 inch bit of yeast at the start it ran clear. 
Hope this trick can help some others. 

Steve
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE:

This message may contain legally confidential and privileged information
and is intended only for the named recipient(s).  No one else is 
authorized to read, disseminate, distribute, copy, or otherwise disclose
the contents of this message.  If you have received this message in 
error, please notify the sender immediately by e-mail or telephone and 
delete the message in its entirety. Thank you.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
<<<<GWIASIG 0.06c>>>>


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 13:27:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: davidson richard <ooh_rick at yahoo.com>
Subject: Darrell's Oatmeal Stout

On 18 June, Darrell shared the results and particulars
of his outstanding Oatmeal Stout, but he was not
bragging, mind you.  ;-)

I'm curious, though, if that mash temp was really
165F, or a typo?  Doesn't seem like you'd get that
much attenuation with a mash that hot.  

Another queston; have you brewed this with only the
Irish yeast?  Do you think it was the combination that
made all the difference?  

My wife and I being stout lovers, I definately plan to
give this one a whirl.  I like the idea of adding the
roasted barley right before the sparge, too.  I'm
looking forward to the outcome.

Cheers,
Rick



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 17:08:19 -0500
From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com>
Subject: Briess Munich 10

North Country Malt Supply's cross reference chart says that Briess Munich 10
is equivalent to Weyermann's Munich II. I have some Weyermann's Munich Dark
which does not show up in North Country's cross reference chart. Is
Weyermann's Munich Dark another name for Weyermann's Munich II?

Weyermann's Munich I and Briess's Bonlander are their lightest Munich malts

Bruce Garner
Madison, WI



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 17:14:20 -0500
From: "Bruce Garner" <bpgarner at mailbag.com>
Subject: Great Taste sold out

I want to inform all that the Great Taste of the Midwest sold out last week
two months before the event, August 10th. 2003 tickets go on sale next May
1st. The Taste is always held the second Saturday in August.

Bruce Garner
Madison, WI



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 19:20:31 -0400
From: "David Craft" <chsyhkr at bellsouth.net>
Subject: adding minerals to the mash

Greetings,

One easy way to add calcium is to buy calcium (calcium carbonate usually)
supplement tablets from the drug store. They dissolve easily and you know
exactly the quantity you are adding.  We have very hard water, so I have to
add minerals to every batch.  For ales usually a teaspoon or two (sometimes
more) of gypsum, depending on how much hop bitternes I am shooting for.
For lagers, usually just 1 or 2 tablet of calcium, either 600 or 1200
milligrams.  It seems to work for me and makes life easier...........

Enjoying my CACA (not to be confused with bird poop) as we speak.

David B. Craft
Battleground Brewers Homebrew Club
Crow Hill Brewery and Meadery
Greensboro, NC



Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 18 Jun 2002 17:07:48 -0700
From: "Skip Virgilio" <skip at alesmith.com>
Subject: San Diego Brewpubs

Marc,

There are over 20 breweries in San Diego, but unfortunately only two in the
downtown area. They are Rock Bottom and Karl Strauss. The ferry to Coronado
Island will get you to the Coronado Brewing Company. I suggest you take the
Coaster (train) up the coast to Pizza Port in Solana Beach and then press on
to Pizza Port in Carlsbad. Both are close to Coaster depots and both have
excellent beer. Not too far from Solana Beach is Oggie's (beer is better
than the name), formerly Stuft Pizza and Brewing Co. in Del Mar. You would
probably have to taxi from Pizza Port, Solana to Oggie's and back. There are
many others to try, but unfortunately, it is difficult or expensive to get
around San Diego county without a car. In the bars look for AleSmith, Alpine
Beer Co., Ballast Point, Gem of the Sea and Stone products. The two best tap
houses representing local beers are Liar's Club in Mission Beach and
O'Brien's in Kearny Mesa.

Enjoy your stay!

Skip Virgilio
AleSmith Brewing Co.



Return to table of contents

---