HOMEBREW Digest #3993 Fri 19 July 2002

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  Re: how high are your nipples? (Kent Fletcher)
  Water filter lifetime (EdgeAle)
  Brew Shops in Gainsville FL? (Denis Bekaert)
  re: New Data Point (John Bowerman)
  Point / Counterpoint on the AHA (John Bowerman)
  agave (Darrell_Leavitt/SUNY)
  rice hulls and mash hopping, Brussells hotels ("Czerpak, Pete")
  Traquair House Ale (Julio Canseco)
  Re: Brewing with Soft Wheat (Jeff Renner)
  Acetobacter $# at &%- Or - crying in my (lack of)  beer ("Hache, Marc")
  Re: High FG in Strong Lager (Jeff Renner)
  Rookie question (Marc Tiar)
  Save a Few Bucks on Your AHA Membership (mohrstrom)
  RE: Yes, it's about Sean and the AHA (sorry) (Brian Lundeen)
  high FG lager (Marc Sedam)
  how much CO2 is produced (Alan McKay)
  HBD mailing list vs. forums (Jake Isaacs)
  PNW Trip Tips (mwb)
  Liquor to Grist Ratio? (MOREY Dan)
  counter pressure bottle filler ("Mauricio Wagner")
  Geo. Fix Maibock attenuation (Jeff & Ellen)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 21:52:42 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: how high are your nipples? Alan McKay asked: >I have a 45 litre / 11 US gallon SS pot that I want >to get a coupling (OK, not a nipple but the subject >line was better that way ;-)) welded into. But I'm >not sure how high off the bottom of the pot to put it. >Is there a rule of thumb? This is for fitting a ball->valve on the outside, and I also want to fit some >kind of manifold to the inside. Alan, I'm assuming this is for a mash/lauter tun. The correct height will be dependent on the height of your false bottom/manifold. I would obtain or make the flase bottom/manifold first and dry-fit it by placing it in the pot with the outlet tubing/piping attached, and mark the location on the inside wall of the pot. Measure down and then transfer the location to the outside wall for drilling. You want to have the coupling on a vertical surface, not at the radius from side to bottom. This will allow the false bottom/mainifold to be as low as possible, maximizing the amount of recoverable wort. Kent Fletcher brewing in So Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 01:08:40 EDT From: EdgeAle at cs.com Subject: Water filter lifetime HBD, If I have a water filter that says ... Filter capacity: 600 gals Filter Life: 6 months Should I really replace it after 6 months even though I havn't run anything close to 600 gals through it? Does the filter somehow degrade with time requiring the replacement or is the company just trying to get my money? Thanks, Dana Edgell - ------------------------------------------ Edge Ale Brewery, Oceanside CA http://ourworld.cs.com/EdgeAle Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 17 Jul 2002 22:35:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Denis Bekaert <Denis-B at rocketmail.com> Subject: Brew Shops in Gainsville FL? I'm going to set my son up to begin brewing next week when we go for a visit next week in Gainsville, Florida. While I have ordered an extended brewing set up for him, I want to introduce him to some local brew shop folks that will be there for him when we have gone back home to Tennessee....so, the question is, are there any brew shops in Gainsville? I remember than Mark Tumarken(sp?) posts from Gainsville, so perhaps he'd be the one to answer. Once my son is brewing, I'll raid his beer when I visit rather than the other way around! Sneaky, huh? Denis in Beechgrove, Tennessee where moonshine is our history but homebrewing is our passion Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 00:41:40 -0700 From: John Bowerman <bowerman at cvc.net> Subject: re: New Data Point Having once run out of beer in North Pole (Alaska), I can unequivocally say that the sound heard by all sounded very close to "Shhhtttt!" Does that count? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 00:59:21 -0700 From: John Bowerman <bowerman at cvc.net> Subject: Point / Counterpoint on the AHA Paul Kensler wrote in HBD #3992 > With all the witty banter flying around regarding the > "quit the AHA" thread, I'm dying for someone to come > back with "Jane, you ignorant slut". Thankyou, Paul. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 06:27:52 -0400 From: Darrell_Leavitt/SUNY%SUNY at esc.edu Subject: agave Paul, I made a Blue Agave Mead a year or so ago that was a real hit...just 10 lb clover honey and 3lb agave , using champagne yeast... It came out at about 8%... ..Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 08:04:13 -0400 From: "Czerpak, Pete" <Pete.Czerpak at siigroup.com> Subject: rice hulls and mash hopping, Brussells hotels Back in HBD#3986, Paul Shick from Ohio mentions some flow problems with heating and recirculation with his first two mash hopped beers. Are you a RIMser Paul? Unfortunately I have not used rice in any of my mashes including those with 25%+ malted rye contents. I have however done about 6 or 8 mash hopped brews though. All my mash hopped brewed are batched sparged in a 10 gallon Gott cooler using a single temp infusion. I usually add my mash hops (usually about 1 oz to 12 to 14 lbs of grain, although I did mash hop a bitter with maybe 1 oz in 8 lbs of grain) after I mash in by sprinkling them on the surface of the mash and then stirring them in. When I open the Gott to later begin runoff afterconversion the mash smells really nicely of hops. I have not experienced any slower runoffs than normal (10 to 15 minutes) and the runoff seems to clear much quicker than normal. I do like the mash hop flavor added to some brews although I am not entirely certain whether I like the flavor generated by the 4 Cs of American hops (cascade, cent, chin, colum). How did your use of rice hulls improve your runoff rates with regards to recirc and heating? Let us know as it helps to "spread the mashhop gospel" per Marc Sedam. Also, do you add your mash hops similarly to how I do it? Another question, I'll be in Belgium in mid August to do the usual HBD Belgium lambic tours. Can anybody recommend some reasonable costing hotel recommendations for someone not on business expense? Thanks, Pete Czerpak albany, NY Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 08:31:22 -0700 From: Julio Canseco <jcanseco at arches.uga.edu> Subject: Traquair House Ale Greetings! Just got back from a trip to Scotland,.... so many pubs, so little time..beautiful country... Among the highlights of our trip was a visit to Traquair House and its brewery. Now my quest is to try and emulate their House Ale. I have saved bits of past postings regarding this Ale. As far as I know, It is a Scotch Ale, 7.2% abv (strong ale?), EKG hops, H. Baird malt and black malt. Also caramelization is obtained by boiling the first gallon of a five gal batch, down to a quart and adding this caramelized wort back at the end of the regular boil. Will probably use Wyeast Scottish Ale. Ray Daniels also talks about Traquair House Ale in his book: Designing Great Beers, Chapter on Scotish Ales. I have Charley Burns' recipe for Deer Valley Scotch Ale (similar) but this one is for 10.5% alcohol, a bit too high. Any guidance, help, notes, recipes will be greately appreciated. Also, I have tried to subscribe to the UK hb digest but the request keeps bouncing back. Is it still alive? Anyone has the correct request-address? I used the one from the internet. TIA julio in athens, georgia Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 09:39:45 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Brewing with Soft Wheat "John Misrahi" <lmoukhin at sprint.ca> writes: >The other day i found something in the bulk food store that set off my >'brewing radar'. It was labelled 'soft wheat' and just appears to be some >kind of unmalted wheat kernels (nibblets?). I tasted a few, they seem fine, >and yes, softer than malted wheat. (I've brewed before with malted and >flaked wheat, but never this stuff). Those are just raw wheat kernels, also called wheat berries. They are great for making Belgian wit beer. Wheat is categorized by several criteria. You have mentioned one - hard or soft. As a rule, hard wheats have stronger, more elastic proteins (gluten), which makes them good for bread because the dough will hold CO2 bubbles and allow it to rise well.. Soft wheat proteins are weaker and less elastic, making them poor for bread but good for pastries, cookies, biscuits, pie crusts, etc. where you want tenderness. Because hard wheats are generally fertilized with more nitrogen than soft wheats, they are normally higher in protein than soft wheat (typically 11-14% vs. 9-11%). Lower levels of weaker protein means that soft wheat is generally better for brewing. It's easier to mill, too. Wheat is also classified by when it is sown. Spring wheat is sowed in the spring and harvested in late summer. Winter wheat is sown in autumn and harvested mid-summer (just about now in Michigan). Hard winter wheat is what has made Kansas and neighboring states famous for their wheat. Spring wheat is grown mostly in the northern plains states and the prairie provinces. Spring wheat is, so far as I know, all hard wheat, and its protein is even stronger than hard winter wheat. The best bread flours are milled from spring wheat, but winter wheat can do fine as well. The third classification of wheat is by its bran color - red or white. Red wheat is the most common in North American and probably the wild ancestral color. Because bran pigments are genetically tied to tannins and phenolics in the bran, white wheat is milder flavored - often described as sweeter or less bitter. If you are making white (refined) flour, this doesn't matter, but for whole wheat flour, it does. Shredded wheat cereal is an example of a soft, white winter wheat product. In the last few years, hard, white winter wheats with good bread baking qualities have been grown in the US for whole wheat flour. King Arthur makes an excellent white whole wheat flour. I eat whole wheat bread from it all the time and it is much milder, as well as lighter in color, than bread from red wheat. Much of the rest of the world prefers white wheat since they eat it as whole meal. Many years ago the US sent red wheat to a famine struck region (I think it was India), where it was considered an insult. Red wheat was for animals. Most North American soft white winter wheat is grown in NY and Michigan and neighboring states, SE Ontario and BC. I grew it for several years with a farmer friend back in the 80s and malted it in small batches. I believe wheat is made from soft wheat, and you can get wheat malt that is specified as white wheat malt. >So the question is, how should i go >about brewing with it? I have had lots of advice and have these suggestions > >1) Cook it for 30 min (un milled), add to mash >2) mill, cook for 30 min, add to mash >3) don't cook. Just mill, then add to mash > >Which is the right one? You thought I'd never get to this, I'll bet. I've just illustrated why my kids say I can never give the simple answer. Can't stop being a teacher even though it's been 25 years since I've been in the classroom. #1 won't work too well because the enzymes won't be able to get to the starches inside the wheat kernel, and any sugars produces would tend to stay in there. #2 will work fine, but is unnecessary. #3 is simplest and works fine because the wheat starch will gelatinize at mash temperatures. Just mill it coarsely. I use a Corona mill, but may try my newly acquired MaltMill. I will be making my famous ginger wit beer http://hbd.org/brewery/cm3/recs/09_85.html on Monday for our daughter's wedding next month (I've already made a CAP, a Vienna mild lager and a porter). I will use 45% coarsely milled soft white winter Michigan wheat, 5% rolled oats, and 50% six-row malt. Have fun brewing with it. Jeff PS - Oh, forgot to mention, there will be a quiz later. - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 10:21:05 -0400 From: "Hache, Marc" <HacheM at PIOS.COM> Subject: Acetobacter $# at &%- Or - crying in my (lack of) beer My last 3, yes 3 batches, have been ruined by acetobacter to varying degrees. I am struggling to figure out where the heck the infection is coming from. My cleaning and sanitation routines have not changed. It seems to start in the primary fermenter (plastic) as on the first two batches I could smell it. As I looked back on the brew process for these two batches I thought I knew where the infection might have happened. This third one though, everything went as planned. When tasting the wort after primary fermentation there was an ever so slight vinegar taste. I had hoped that I mistasted but alas no. The wort is left in the primary no longer than 1 1/2 weeks. Here's what I do: Equipment is cleaned immediately after brewing using hot water and dish soap, scrub with a nylon scrubby until clean. Just before brewing the next batch I rerinse with hot water prior to sterilization. I sterilize using Iodophor (25ppm), mixing up a few litres and swishing for 1-2 minutes per: http://www.bayareamashers.org/iodophor.htm (does anyone else do this?). Anything that can't be immersed is sprayed. Keg is cleaned using TSP and rinsed with hot water, I clean the tubes with a .22 caliber rifle barrel cleaner to ensure no gunk. I can think of three possibilities: 1) The swishing process is not effective enough and I need to immerse 2) The iodophor concentrate has lost it's effectiveness. It is 4 or 5 years old but is still a very dark color and has been kept away from sunlight and tightly capped. Is there any way to tell? 3) I have hidden gunk somewhere in the system I did do one thing different on this third batch, after adding the yeast (liquid wyeast, I think #1056) I poured between two sterilized containers to aerate. Can't remember the exact temperature of the wort but it was less than 27C (80F) Any suggestion, thoughts, comments, commiseration ? A very thirsty Marc in Winnipeg. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 10:17:39 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: High FG in Strong Lager Steve Jones <stjones at eastman.com> writes from Johnson City, TN >I brewed the Fix Maibock at BigBrew, with an OG of 1.071. > >My mash schedule was a protein rest for 15 minutes at 130F, a 45 minute rest >at 140F, then a 15 minute rest at 158F before mashing out, which was all >within his recommended mash schedule. >Now after 10 weeks, the gravity is only down to 1.026. I suspect that the >140F rest was too low, and that the beta amylase wasn't active enough at >that temp. I think that you are right. I don't have a solution for fixing it other than to drink it, but I used to brew lagers at this schedule and also ended up with similarly high FGs. Then when MCAB2 had a tour of the Anheuser-Busch pilot brewery and I had a chance to pick the brain of the A/B brewer, I switched the 140 rest to 145-146 (with or without a previous rest), which I think was the A/B rest, and have consistently gotten far better attenuation. I rest 30-45 minutes at 145-146 and 158-160 each. George originally recommended 40C/60C/70C or 50C/60C/70C rests based on old German record, I believe, but I think that part of this is the simple mnemonic simplicity of the numbers. My experience has led me away from this. Wish George was around to discuss this. Wonder if he got high attenuation with his schedule. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 07:47:41 -0700 From: Marc Tiar <marc at tiar.reno.nv.us> Subject: Rookie question But I'm not really a rookie. Just need to check in with everyone on this one since my lager skills are rusty and unused so might need some tuning up. I brewed an extract Mai Bock of my own design on Saturday - 8lbs DME, .5 lb 10L crystal, some hops, etc. Nothing too fancy. Pitched a smack pack of Wyeast Munich Lager yeast after chilling with a copper chiller, and put it in the fridge (in a cornie keg) at about 48 degrees F. I aerated my usual way - the activity of pouring from kettle to cornie, plus vigorous topping off. Very frothy. It still sits with no visible signs of fermentation. The yeast was manufactured back in April, and I was hesitant to buy it, but really needed it and didn't have time for a starter, etc....the usual excuses. I smacked it about 28 hours before pitching and it was inflated as fully as I've ever seen them get, so I didn't really have any fear at the time. Now I'm a little worried that there's nothing going on in there. Any thoughts? Repitch? Too cold too soon? Everything is OK? I don't remember a lager taking this long to show fermentation activity, but I've never had a fridge before and just relied on winter temps to take care of this. Thanks to all. Marc Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 11:51:57 -0400 From: mohrstrom at humphrey-products.com Subject: Save a Few Bucks on Your AHA Membership "Beer Phantom" - Scare up your friendly (well, some of them are...) neighborhood AHA Liaison, and they will help you save five bucks on your membership (and the price of a stamp!) If you care to disclose your location (Skull Cave Brewery?), I can help you find a Liaison near you. Mark in Kalamazoo Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 11:00:02 -0500 From: Brian Lundeen <BLundeen at rrc.mb.ca> Subject: RE: Yes, it's about Sean and the AHA (sorry) Paul Kensler writes: > With all the witty banter flying around regarding the > "quit the AHA" thread, I'm dying for someone to come > back with "Jane, you ignorant slut". > Paul, you ignorant, misguided slut! Sean had already called Mark blind, stupid, ignorant, fat, retarded, and in private, a coward and a jackoff. Near as I can figure, this probably exhausted Sean's vocabulary. Now you've gone and given him another word to use. What were you thinking? ;-) Here are my thoughts on this issue, Sean. As Bill Wible points out, it is debatable whether the AHA should have suggested you approach businesses on their behalf. However, to extend that to the level of abuse you hurled at the AHA, and to malign the many members who see the benefits of this organization as rhetoric-swallowing simpletons was entirely uncalled for. I did not find anything the least bit constructive or credible in your rants. You call the AHA organization bloated, without offering any sort of proof of this claim other than your own "experience" with associations. You claim 7 months of brewing experience has caused you to outgrow Zymurgy (and I must credit Jim Bermingham for one of the funniest posts in a long time on that topic). See the difference there, Sean? Jim's post was funny, yours was just laughable. And in all your ranting, you offered no suggestions as to the kind of services that the "average homebrewer" (for whom you seem to have appointed yourself official spokesperson) would benefit from. A couple of years ago I started a homebrew club up here. A rather ungrateful lot, I might add, I mean I started the darn thing, and have served on the executive for two years, and the buggers STILL charge me dues! But I digress. As a result of that, I made the acquaintance of Gary Glass, who has proven to be a very helpful correspondent in that time. This year, in my capacity as President of the Amateur Winemakers of Canada, I asked Gary for some brew prizes for our upcoming national competition. No problem, Gary arranged to have some nice AHA clothing and books sent out to me, which we will use to reward out national brew champ and best beer entry brewer. And you know what? I'm not even a member of the AHA, and our competition isn't even an AHA sanctioned event. As far as I can tell, these are just good people doing good things for brewers. Many respected voices in this forum support them, and it's time I did likewise. I am going to join the AHA (in spite of the fact that they can't spell Canadian ;-)) and encourage my fellow howling savages (as Jack Schmidling christened us in another forum) to do likewise. Thank you, Sean, for motivating me to do the right thing. Yes, I'm sure your Really Big Brain(tm) will shred the logic of my posting; and you can call me blind, stupid and ignorant (just don't call me late for happy hour). At least I'll feel like I'm being part of the solution, whereas you, sir, are most certainly part of the problem. IMHO. Cheers Brian Lundeen Joining the AHA at [314,829] aka Winnipeg Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 12:11:20 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: high FG lager Steve Jones has an issue with high FG in the Fix maibock. Adding amylase enzyme to your lager is a good idea to drop the FG. It would be even easier to grind up a Beano tablet and add it to the fermenter. But I would also warm the fermenter to room temperature before adding the enzyme, since it may not work at lagering temps. Consider it a diacetyl rest. You may also just not want to drop it any more. The problem with adding enzymes to the fermenter is that you'll likely go from too sweet to too dry. It wouldn't shock me to have your maibock drop to an FG of 1.012 or something--too high for the style IMHO. Maybe you could add the enzyme to half of the batch and blend them back in the keg? - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 13:57:11 -0400 From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net> Subject: how much CO2 is produced Jens the Alt/Koelsch/Pils Braumeister at www.braulotse.de tells me : als Richtwert kannst du bei ca. 12 % Stammwuerze und einem "normalen" Endvergaerungsgrad ( um die 80% Vs ) von ca. 3,5 kg CO2 pro Hektoliter ausgehen. My loose translation : As a rule of thumb if you start with an (OG) of 12% (I'll let someone do the actual conversion to OG but 12 degrees is about 1.045 - 1.050 IIRC) and a normal fermentation with about 80% attenuation, you get about 3.5 kg CO2 per hectoliter. You can tour Jens' brewery on my site at : http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php ?page=20020430221423680 (join the above 2 lines into 1) and you can see his CO2 reclamation unit, among other things cheers, -Alan - -- http://www.bodensatz.com/ The Beer Site Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 15:20:05 -0400 From: Jake Isaacs <rjisaa0 at uky.edu> Subject: HBD mailing list vs. forums Just wondering what reasons you folks have for using this mailing list vs. the forums (hbd.org/forums). I check both regularly, but get a lot more use out of the forums (especially since trolling has been virtually eliminated). The forums get you more viewpoints much faster. Plus you can just stop reading a thread when it's no longer interesting to you (personally I can't stand wading through this AHA defense vs. pointless bitching thread just to get other useful info). I'm certainly not suggesting anyone stop using this mailing list, just thought some might not be aware of the other resource. Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 13:30:59 -0700 (PDT) From: mwb at brewer.net Subject: PNW Trip Tips Returned last Saturday from a trip home to visit family and friends in Oregon, and thought I'd pass along a few tidbits of what was out there for the brewing masses. We were gone for two weeks so I had plenty of time to hit a few "stops" along the way: Portland Brewing Company (http://www.portlandbrew.com): We hit the NW 31st location twice - it was a favorite in the past when I lived out there. Not the typical burger & fries pub grub - try the Dungeness Crab dip for a fun treat. Drank the Woodstock IPA, Oregon Honey Beer, and their summer Weizenbier. The IPA is not the typical PNW C-hopped IPA, and is oak aged. Quite nice. I also have to recommend their Weizenbier - full of good clove / banana flavors but not heavy on the palate. BridgePort Brewing (http://www.bridgeportbrew.com): Went to the old brewhouse location on 13th, where you can get great pizzas and the fine BridgePort ales. Their IPA is a great beer - and they serve it on draft and handpull. The cask version is excellent. On a nice evening you can sit outside on the old loading dock. Mt. Hood Brewing (http://www.mthoodbrewing.com): Good pizzas and decent beers. Kinda pricey compared to most of the Portland pubs, but if you're going skiing on Mt. Hood this pub is just off US 26 and is a good stop. McMenamins (http://www.mcmenamins.com): Many locations, and many different beers. We went to the Greenway Pub by our old apartment. Hammerhead Pale Ale has been a favorite of mine for a long time and still is. Rogue Brewing (http://www.rogue.com): Good pubgrub and the amazing beers from John Maier. Brutal Bitter is outstanding on tap as is Old Crustacean. A real surprise to me was the Kell's Irish Lager. A great session beer for those who are not into the highly hopped beers they serve. You can also play blackjack / video poker (legal too - the games are regulated by the Oregon Lotto commission) in the Card room at the location on Bay Blvd. The best part though is the Rogue "Bed & Beer". For $80-$120 you can rent a fully furnished 1 or 2 bedroom apt right above the pub, get two free logo pints and 2 22 oz bottles of Rogue beers. The apts are quite nice - the only downer is the view is not great. Also don't forget the brewery itself just across the Yaquina Bay bridge where they have a tasting room and another restaurant. M. George Glen Carbon, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 15:47:14 -0500 From: MOREY Dan <dan.morey at cnh.com> Subject: Liquor to Grist Ratio? Just interested in the latest thoughts on water to grist ratio. Usually I use 1.33 quarts per pound of grain. This is the ratio that David Miller recommended in his first book. Recently I recall reading that many commercial brewers use between 1.5 to 2 quarts per pound of grain. Recently I have began to change my ratio based upon the style of beer. For Lambics and Wits, I have been using about 1.75 qt/lb and for stouts closer to 1 qt/lb. But for most beers I am around the 1.33 qt/lb ratio. For the most part, I haven't noticed any significant differences with thinner mashes. I definitely believe there are advantages to a thinner mash for Lambics because of the unique mash schedules. Thicker mashes have seem to be less efficient (less extract) and they drop in temperature faster due to less thermal mass. Hopefully others will be interested in this discussion. Cheers, Dan Morey Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 18:27:10 -0300 From: "Mauricio Wagner" <mwagner at alean.com.ar> Subject: counter pressure bottle filler Hi folks!! I'm writting from Argentina and trying to build a counter pressure bottle filler. I would like to receive some help from experienced users in order to choose the best design. On the net I found a couple of schematics and I would like to know wich one to use (Pitchard's or... ?) or to receive info about web sites were I can find more schematics. Privates messages are welcomed, pictures, photo, drawings, etc.... Best Regards, Mauricio Wagner Buenos Aires - Argentina Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 18 Jul 2002 21:38:20 -0400 From: Jeff & Ellen <JeffNGladish at ij.net> Subject: Geo. Fix Maibock attenuation Steve Jones wrote that his Maibock stopped at 1.026 after ten weeks and wondered if the 140 mash rest was too low. I brewed the same beer on Big Brew Day (May 4), used a slightly higher rest at 144 for 45 minutes (as well as rests at 105, 136, and 158). Three decoctions on a very hot Florida day almost did me in, but the beer turned out great. Fermented with 2124 Bohemian Lager yeast at 48F for 3 weeks, then 38F for a week, then kegged at 1.017 (from an OG of 1.071). It has been my experience that the amount of yeast has more to do with the attenuation than any other factor. I made sure I built up a large culture for this batch. In the past when I've had trouble with attenuation I've had good results with adding enzymes to the fermenter. You may want to raise the temp back up to the upper 40s or even higher to reawaken the yeast. Jeff Gladish, Tampa, Fl. Return to table of contents
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