HOMEBREW Digest #4007 Mon 05 August 2002

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  Re: Chest freezer problems (Kent Fletcher)
  Dump Sparging And Extract Efficiency ("Phil Yates")
  Weldless keg spiggots ("Mike Brennan")
  Re: Vodka (Jeff Renner)
  Re: Walk In Cooler (Dan)
  Re: Some new brewing books ("Stephen Alexander")
  Trip round up, Partitioned Freezer Conversion ("Homebrew42")
  FW: Chest freezer problems ("Angie and Reif Hammond")
  Double Diamond / Recipie Critique Requested (Michael Fross)
  Thanks (David Brandt)
  Re: smoked malt (Dean Fikar)
  Buying Oxygen (David Towson)
  Re: Dump Sparging (Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 2 Aug 2002 21:22:39 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Chest freezer problems Jeff Pursley was having chest pains (chest freezer, that is): > When I examined the chest freezer, I found the walls > around the top of the compartment to be were cold, > with some ice forming in one corner. > The walls around the bottom of the compartment were > warm. Jeff, Most modern chest freezers have both the evaporator and condenser coils under the inner and outer skins. More than likely you have a refrigerant leak, which will cause your exact symptoms. Leaks on these units can be so small as to be nearly impossible to find. Being so small, the leaks can take years to noticeably affect performance. The up side of that is that you can gas 'er up and not worry about it for another few years. A piercing type access valve can be attached to the tubing and refrigerant topped off. Kent Fletcher brewing in So Cal Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 20:17:00 +1000 From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Dump Sparging And Extract Efficiency Thomas Hamann noted that his extraction efficiency actually improved when he went to dump or batch sparging as opposed to more traditional sprinkling type methods. I did mention that I probably got the best extract ever using dump sparging. I should clarify that it was on a par (rather than better). In all the years I have been mashing, I have come to the conclusion that the main three factors determining extract efficiency are your crush, thorough mixing of grain and water in the mash tun and rate of run off. It doesn't seem to matter one hoot what depth of water you like to maintain above your grain during run off. These days, I crush very fine with my Valley Mill. This fine crush certainly encourages flour balling in the mash tun but doughing in helps a lot to minimise this. What balls do occur can easily be broken up with gentle stirring of the mash (or you can attach an egg beater to your electric drill if you live far enough from Steve Alexander that he won't hear it!) One poor obsessive soul here in Oz (and most of us know who that is) claims he crushes his grain to flour and gets 100% extract efficiency using rice hulls to avoid the inevitable stuck mash. I don't go to such extremes but I do usually use a few handfuls of rice hulls as a precaution and never get close to a stuck mash. These days, my extract efficiency is in excess of 90% and that keeps me happy. I get around 280 points per litre gravity where a bit over 300 points would be considered 100%. I'm not really concerned about grain cost but more interested in producing the maximum amount of beer possible given the capacity of my kettle. The wheat beer I have been producing of late is so rapidly consumed by Jill and her girlfriends, I have even taken to high gravity brewing, diluting to the required gravity in the fermenters prior to fermentation. Users of RIMS would wonder why anyone would manually stir their mash. All I can say is that it suits me. A low gas flame below the tun enables temperature control which is good enough for me. Getting back to the point of this post, I'm not suggesting that anyone using a sparge arm should throw it away and adopt dump sparging. What I am saying is that after years of being a "Phil's Sparge Arm" man, or any other sparge arm, I now realise I can dispense with it, with no ill effect. It seems one less procedure I need worry about and as my hot liquor tun has split its sides, I don't have to replace it. The more and longer you brew, the more you learn. Even if others don't agree with your conclusions, we all have to admit it is a fascinating journey. Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 08:56:25 -0500 From: "Mike Brennan" <brewdude at tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Weldless keg spiggots I have never had a desire to weld my spiggot to the keg. It makes it too hard to clean. I favor cutting a hole in the bottom of the keg. I notch out the bottom side of the keg where the ball valve protrudes. The valve is connected to a 4 inch brass tube which has a 90 (male connection) on the end that is inserted into the hole drilled in the keg. I simply put a stainless washer on both the inside and the outside of the keg and crank down on a brass nut to keep it in place. Never had a leak and you can disassemble it to clean. I suspect a lot of brewers have a similar set up. Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 09:29:45 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Vodka LJ Vitt <lvitt4 at yahoo.com> wrote: >I was informed by a visiter from Russia that good vodkas >are made from 100% grain. What grains? I don't know. It's most often rye. There's a pretty good web site about vodka at http://www.ivodka.com/. It lists virtually all brands of vodka available and usually (often?) tells what the the grain bill for each is. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 06:45:09 -0700 (PDT) From: Dan <goldenloafer at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Walk In Cooler Ed Jones asks about fabrication of a walk in cooler. Forrest Duddles, known far and wide as "The FridgeGuy" has built a great one and published details. Here's the link to his article: http://www.klob.org/articles-ColdRoom.htm Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 10:09:04 -0400 From: "Stephen Alexander" <steve-alexander at ieee.org> Subject: Re: Some new brewing books Ray Daniels .. writes >A question on another forum recently prompted me to frame comments on some >recently published brewing books and I thought they might be of interest >here as well. Here goes: >"Brewing Yeast and Fermentation." Chris Boulton and David Quain. (Blackwell >Science, 2001) [...] > My take is that no serious brewing library >should be without this volume. (You can order this on Amazon.com) >"Brewing Yeast Fermentation Performance." Edited by Katherine Smart >(Blackwell Science, 2000). This is a collection of 26 papers [...] > A good buy for the >serious student of brewing. (Also available on Amazon.) I've had both of these volumes for the past 6 months and I can wholeheartedly recommend Boulton & Quain's "Brewing Yeast and Fermentation" (BY&F) as an excellent resource for the brewer with an abnormally technical interest in yeast. It is perhaps as readable and as detailed as M&BS, tho' not as encyclopedic in it's coverage. It is not a textbook and does not begin with the basics but assumes a prior foundation. Fabulous book that finds it's way to my desk regularly. B&Q add some of their own unpublished results and some proprietary work at Bass and draw together information from the most recent research. I am much less enthralled by Katherine Smart's collection of papers. Nothing wrong here, but it is just a collection of papers and you are looking at $150 investment for an odd-lot of details. Don't get me wrong - about 1/3rd of the papers are interesting enough that I've read then right off and another 1/3rd will be read as time permits - but as a practical HBer I really don't care so very much about PCR techniques for detecting lacto's and (the lager yeast article Ray referred to) -70C storage effects on petite mutants. My advise - buy BY&F and borrow a copy of BYFP from a university library. Each is about $150. BAMM.com (Books a Million) usually has a better price than Amazon. -Steve Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 16:46:41 -0400 From: "Homebrew42" <Homebrew42 at hotmail.com> Subject: Trip round up, Partitioned Freezer Conversion Hello all, First I just wanted to say thanks to all for the many suggestions I got from the list regarding local places in Groton CT, and Columbia MD. Both of my trips were rerouted and I ended up immediately leaving for Morgantown WV so I wasn't able to stop anywhere in Columbia, but I am going back so the suggestions will not go to waste. The following week after I went to Groton, I was sent to Skokie IL. I had a lot of good notes on the places I visited but somehow managed to leave them (binder and all) at Gate 7B PIT. All in all my travels were quite nice and made all the better by having an idea of where to get a good meal and draught at the end of the day. While I don't have complete notes I do remember the highlights. I stopped for the night in Frederick and the next day I stopped at Brewer's Alley. It got really good reviews on pubcrawler.com. The beer wasn't all that special but I liked the smoked porter better than the IPA , and it was a nice atmosphere. Food was ok, but the service was a little slow (we _were_ sitting outside). Not sure I would go back right away, but it wasn't a bad experience at all. On the way home I was able to stop at a place in Cumberland. I think it was Tuckers. Small place, the food was a bit pricey, but the IPA was better. In Gorton I was able to make it to the Mohegan (sp?) Sun, but I wasn't really all that impressed with the beer they brewed, but the Casino/Hotel/Mall was really impressive. I was never able to make it to Willimantic as much as I tried. However, while eating at S&P Oysters (???) (good food) I also had Cottrell from the area which was really good. Then in Chicago, I had some Honker (???) IPA (Can you tell I like them?) from Goose Island. I also stopped in to the local Rock Bottom as it came recommended for an easy in and out of the city and a nice "jumping off point." I liked the beer and the food was really good IMHO. I was even able to bring a growler home with me. One of the more interesting brews from Rock Bottom was their Bourbon Stout. I couldn't drink more than one but I really enjoyed the one I did have. I didn't sample them all but I liked the Brown and the Red was ok too. anyway enough of me rambling thanks again to all for the great suggestions. Since I have been away, I have fallen behind as usual in reading the hbd. however, I seem to remember a couple of posts to either here or rcb with a request for a link to a partitioned freezer conversion site. I had the link and didn't remember seeing it anywhere recently (but I was just skimming a lot of it) so I thought I would post it again HTH. http://www.oregonbrewcrew.com/freezer/freezer.html Have fun brewing, Bill Lucas State College, PA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 16:54:32 -0400 From: "Angie and Reif Hammond" <arhammond at attbi.com> Subject: FW: Chest freezer problems This is an offline discussion I have had relative to the life of chest freezers used as beer coolers. I was wondering what the collective's thoughts and experiences were in this area? Thanks, Reif Hammond Durham, NH - --------------------------------------- Reif, Thanks for your response and feedback! I've heard they have a lifespan of about 4-5 years before you start having problems -- I'm wondering whether warranty would cover something like that, particularly if the unit is still in it's original structure without any holes, etc. drilled into it. Absolutely, feel free to add my e-mail and your response to HBD. Thanks again for the feedback and I'll keep my eyes posted to see what others have to say. Prost! Karl - ------------------------------------------ Karl, I ran it for about 3 or 4 years that way. I bought it used - it had been stored in a garage for several years. In discussing with the repairman, he said the way to make a freezer last the longest was to run it on its coldest setting. I am now wondering the wisdom of buying a replacement freezer. I may build a cold room instead. I would like to post your question and my response to HBD to see if I can get a discussion going on this. Is it okay with you? Reif - ------------------------------------------ Hi, I saw your post on hbd.org and was wondering how long you ran your chest freezer at higher than freezing temps. before your internal cooling lines started to rust. I've heard others talking about how the coolant lines are steel and running your freezer at higher temps causes condensation to form and rust these out prematurely. Any comments? Thanks! Karl Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 3 Aug 2002 17:18:44 -0500 From: Michael Fross <michael at fross.org> Subject: Double Diamond / Recipie Critique Requested Hello all, I've got into my head an attempt to brew a pale ale sorta like DD. I found a recipe in Clone Beers (page 91), but have modified it quite a bit (I don't know what Amber malt is (it's not crystal) and I'm not putting corn sugar in the wort), but it is close. I guess if it doesn't come out to be a DD clone that wouldn't bother me too much, but I do want a very taste Pale Ale (it's for a friends wedding, so it's important to me). Anyway, enough rambling. Please let me know what you think: Frosty - ---------------------------------------- ProMash Recipe Printout Recipe : Blue Bucket Pale Ale BJCP Style and Style Guidelines - ------------------------------- 04-C Bitter & English Pale Ale, Strong Bitter/English Pale Ale Min OG: 1.046 Max OG: 1.065 Min IBU: 30 Max IBU: 65 Min Clr: 6 Max Clr: 14 Color in SRM, Lovibond Recipe Specifics - ---------------- Batch Size (GAL): 5.00 Wort Size (GAL): 5.00 Total Extract (LBS): 7.25 Anticipated OG: 1.062 Plato: 15.31 Anticipated SRM: 15.9 Anticipated IBU: 35.3 Wort Boil Time: 60 Minutes Pre-Boil Amounts - ---------------- Evaporation Rate: 15.00 Percent Per Hour Pre-Boil Wort Size: 5.88 Gal Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.053 SG 13.11 Plato Grain/Extract/Sugar % Amount Name Origin Potential SRM - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 86.2 6.25 lbs. Light Dry Malt Extract 1.046 7 6.0 0.44 lbs. Crystal 40L America 1.034 40 5.2 0.38 lbs. Toasted Malt(2-row) America 1.033 30 2.6 0.19 lbs. Chocolate Wheat America 1.030 450 Potential represented as SG per pound per gallon. Hops Amount Name Form Alpha HBU Time - ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1.00 oz. Goldings - E.K. Pellet 5.70 5.7 60 min. 0.75 oz. Goldings - E.K. Pellet 5.70 4.3 15 min. 0.50 oz. Styrian Goldings Pellet 4.00 2.0 1 min. 0.50 oz. Fuggle Pellet 5.40 2.7 1 min. 0.50 oz. Goldings - E.K. Pellet 5.70 2.8 Dry Hop Extras Amount Name Type Time - -------------------------------------------------------------------------- 0.10 Oz Irish Moss Fining 15 Min.(boil) Yeast - ----- WYeast 1099 Whitbread Ale Water Profile - ------------- Profile: Woodridge, Illinois Profile known for: Calcium(Ca): 35.2 ppm Magnesium(Mg): 11.4 ppm Sodium(Na): 7.0 ppm Sulfate(SO4): 26.1 ppm Chloride(Cl): 12.0 ppm biCarbonate(HCO3): 0.0 ppm pH: 7.67 Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 03 Aug 2002 18:13:37 -0700 From: David Brandt <jdlcr at flash.netdex.com> Subject: Thanks I just wanted to send a thank you for all the advice from the HBD collective concerning summer cooling schemes for my fermenter. The practical knowledge from those who fancy certain methods was extremely helpful. Sincerely, David Brandt Cloverdale, CA Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 17:07:03 -0700 From: Dean Fikar <dfikar at swbell.net> Subject: Re: smoked malt >smoked malt (Bryan Gros) > >Interested in smoking my own malt. > >I plan to spread a couple pounds of malt on a screen and smoke in the webber. >Any suggestions as to how long to smoke? > >Do I prepare the malt (probably munich) in any way? > >Do I just smoke, malt, and then crush and mash? > >Thanks. > Bryan, Sorry for the tardy reply, I've been out of town for the last 3 weeks. By all means smoke your own malt. My personal preference is to use oak but I've had good success with pecan and apple woods as well. There are many ways to accomplish the smoking procedure. The following works for me: I soak the malt in filtered water for about 5 minutes then smoke it in a dedicated smoker for anywhere from 1 to 3 hrs. I try not let the temperature get much above 150F or so. Some say to let the smoked malt age for a few days or weeks but I usually smoke my malt the night before I brew, let it dry out some on the smoker overnight, then crush & brew the next morning. Hope this helps. Good luck! - --------------------------------------------- Dean Fikar - Ft. Worth, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 04 Aug 2002 19:02:11 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: Buying Oxygen A while back, there was some discussion of alternate sources of pure Oxygen for use in beermaking, and it was pointed out that one can buy refill tanks for Bernzomatic torches at Home Depot for about half the price charged by Liquid Bread. It was also pointed out that this gas is produced to a 99.5 percent purity spec, which is no less strict than that for medical Oxygen. Here is a tip for purchasing these refills. Since the cylinders contain only gas (no liquid), the actual weight of the contents (1.4 ounces) is so small compared with the weight of the cylinder (almost 1.5 pounds) that there's just no way to tell by feel whether a tank is full or empty. And it would take a very accurate scale to tell the difference - not the sort of thing you'd want to carry to the store, even if you had one. A good portable tester would be a pressure gauge, but then you'd need a special left-handed-thread adapter to connect it to the cylinder. So until I can come up with something better, I'm going to bring along the pressure regulator that screws onto the Oxygen bottle. I've noted that when I remove the regulator from a full cylinder, the resealing of the ball-check valve in the top makes a good "pop", and the loudness depends on how much pressure is in the tank. It's crude, but better than nothing. The first cylinder I bought turned out to be completely empty, and I had to go back and exchange it. A simple "pop test" would have saved me a trip. Dave in Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 09:50:11 +1000 (EST) From: Scott Morgan - Sun On-Line Telesales Representative <Scott.Morgan at Sun.COM> Subject: Re: Dump Sparging Phil Yates wrote: >Hey, I always >wanted to try my hand at dump sparging. Sorry Dan Listermann, looks like I >won't be needing the sparge arm on this occasion. And what was the end >result? Probably the best extraction I have ever got out of my grain. I'm >now a dedicated dump sparger and whilst I loved my sparge arm, I won't be >using it again. Hey Phil, I am wondering if this is due to your elevated locale. You have a lower boiling point and am wondering what this does for efficency?? Should I try mashing on my apartment roof?? Bit difficult to get the tun up there, but maybe worth a shot. Could be a bugger with wind for the boil as well.... But there nothing like a bit of Danger in your brewing! Scotty Return to table of contents
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