HOMEBREW Digest #4008 Tue 06 August 2002

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  efficiency (leavitdg)
  deactivation of enzymes (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com>
  Sight glass replacement ("Dennis Collins")
  mash hopping (Marc Sedam)
  Last Call for Beer and Sweat 2002! ("Eric Tepe")
  Re: Double Diamond Recipe (Rick)
  American Amber Ale (ShoesBrew3)
  Fw: Brewing in the Middle East ("Livia Gaffield")
  Correction on mash hop question. (Kevin Crouch)
  Re: Potato Beer ("Bill Pierce")
  Re: efficiency ("Phil Yates")
  Fw: Chest freezer problems ("Steve Heffner")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 06:13:54 -0400 (EDT) From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: efficiency Phil < phil.yates at acenet.com.au > discussed efficiency, and other things, ...which causes me to wonder ...my efficiency seems to have gone down, from 72-75% a few months ago, when I'd take 1 hour or more to collect 7 gallons of wort,...to my currently abysmal level of about 62%, while taking 30 minutes to collect 7 gallons... I guess that the obvious is that I am sparging too fast? Equipment is Polarware with Phils sparge arm... Perhaps I should slow down the runoff a bit and increase efficiency...? .Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 12:55:45 +0200 From: "Aikema, J.N. (JohanNico)" <JohanNico.Aikema at akzonobel.com> Subject: deactivation of enzymes Hi, Does anybody know how fast enzymes deactivate? When I want to use the beta-amylase at say 1 hour 63 degr.C (145 F) and not so much alfa amylase and I heat up from 63 degr.C (145 F) to 85 degr. C (185 F) in 5 min., does that mean I used mainly beta amylase and both are ineffective at the time the mash reached 85 degr. C (185 F) ? Or is alfa amylase than stil working during sparging? Greetings from Holland (Europe), Hans Aikema http://www.hopbier.myweb.nl Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:06:34 -0400 From: "Dennis Collins" <dcollins at drain-all.com> Subject: Sight glass replacement Erik writes: "On my triple tier converted keg setup, I have a sight glass on the hot liquor tank. After several batches and due to the excessive heat from the propane burners, the tube is pretty much shot. The tube is made from an FDA approved plastic called "Excelon" (etched in tubing) and it appears to be 1/2" O.D. Anyone know where I can get more of this material? I've searched the web, but all I can find are businesses who either did not respond to my inquiries, or only do wholesale. Or if anyone has a replacement that would work better, input would be appreciated." What I use for sight tubes on my system is called PEX tubing. It's mostly used for potable water in RV's and mobile homes and should be readily available at Home Depot. It is a white, translucent, semi-flexible material that works well for wort, however, plain water is a little hard to see, but I do have it both on my kettle and HLT. It is UV sensitive, so you can't leave it out in the sun when your not brewing. I've had mine for over a year now (about 15 batches) with no ill effects from the heat of the propane cooker. The 1/2" tubing can actually be "screwed" directly into a 3/8" female NPT thread. I chamfered the end of the tube and applied a couple wraps of teflon tape and just screwed it in several turns, no leaks to date. Dennis Collins Knoxville, TN http://sdcollins.home.mindspring.com "In theory, theory and practice are the same, but not in practice." Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 05 Aug 2002 08:29:16 -0400 From: Marc Sedam <marc_sedam at unc.edu> Subject: mash hopping Kevin, Mash hops add very little bitterness to the beer. In Promash I give them the equivalent of a 5 minute addition. A few IBUs at best. - -- Marc Sedam Chapel Hill, NC Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 08:30:09 -0400 From: "Eric Tepe" <erictepe at insightbb.com> Subject: Last Call for Beer and Sweat 2002! Brewing Gurus, Brewing Lurkers, etc, This is the last call for Beer and Sweat 2002! We already have over 40 kegs entered with just under 2 weeks to register. What is Beer and Sweat? It is the nation's only keg competition hosted by the Bloataring Brewing League in Florence Ky (which is just south of Cincinnati, OH). Last year David Faber of SAAZ took Best of Show with his Bavarian Weizen. This years event will be on August 17th at the Ramada Inn in Florence, Ky. You can make reservations at 859-371-4700. Ask for the Beer and Sweat rooms as we get a special rate.I believe it is actually lower than last year! All beer styles, including mead will be judged. As most of you know, Beer and Sweat is a keg only competition and we will accept corny kegs of all sizes, sankey kegs of all sizes, party pigs and mini-kegs. Again, there will be no 2-liters this year. Entry fee is $5 for the 1st entry, $4 for the 2nd entry, $1 for the 3rd entry. Each additional entry over a total of 3 is free. Last year we had a record 131 entries! Boy was it a party! We will accept entries upto midnight EST on Thursday, August 15th at our web site www.hbd.org/bloat. As always there will be a great raffle as well. Last year we raffled off (3) 50lb bags of malt, as well as about 80 other prizes. There is plenty of food near by so no one will have to starve. For your information, Florence, KY if only 12 miles from Cincinnati, 70 miles from Dayton, about 120Mi from Columbus, 130mi form Indy, about 4 hrs south of Cleveland and Toledo, 5 hrs south of Chicago, Pittsburgh, Detroit and Ann Arbor, 80 miles north of Lexington KY, 100 mi N of Louisville KY, 3 hrs N from Evansville IN, and about 4-5 hrs N from Knoxville TN. We look forward to seeing everyone and having a great time! Sincerely, Eric Tepe Beer and Sweat Coordinator Bloatarian Brewing League Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 05:46:26 -0700 (PDT) From: Rick <ale_brewer at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Double Diamond Recipe Frosty, You may want to search for a recipe for Ind Coope Burton Ale. This is the original UK beer which is renamed DD for the US market. I don't have it with me now, but I'd be surprised if "Brew Your Own Real Ale at Home" doesn't have a recipe for it. Rick Seibt Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 09:05:15 EDT From: ShoesBrew3 at aol.com Subject: American Amber Ale Im looking for any info on this particular style. Im having a hard time getting any in-depth info besides the usual-HBD, AHA, BJCP. The way I understand, this is basically a APA with a deeper color and a maltier profiler. Anything would be appreciated. Erik Lakewood Brewers Guild www.techno-inc.com/lbg/ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 16:46:23 +0200 From: "Livia Gaffield" <swissliv at freesurf.ch> Subject: Fw: Brewing in the Middle East - -----Original Message----- From: Gaffield, Ray Sent: Montag, 5. August 2002 08:12 To: 'post@hbd.org' Subject: Brewing in the Middle East Subject: Brewing in the Middle East Bob in Washington D.C. Asked : >Anybody have experience using a US burner with european-style propane tanks? Bob, I brought a US burner to Europe. Since there was a flexible hose between the burner and the tank, I was able to cut the tank fitting off of the hose and replace it with European fitting for the propane tank. This took a trip to the hardware store and a lot of hand -waving but it got the job done. I find that people are very willingly to help when you mention ( or somehow convey with your hands ) that you make beer at home. The Euro tank will have metric thread which most likely will not be compatible with the set up on your US burner. Good luck. Ray Gaffield Visit our website at http://www.ubswarburg.com This message contains confidential information and is intended only for the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. Please notify the sender immediately by e-mail if you have received this e-mail by mistake and delete this e-mail from your system. E-mail transmission cannot be guaranteed to be secure or error-free as information could be intercepted, corrupted, lost, destroyed, arrive late or incomplete, or contain viruses. The sender therefore does not accept liability for any errors or omissions in the contents of this message which arise as a result of e-mail transmission. If verification is required please request a hard-copy version. This message is provided for informational purposes and should not be construed as a solicitation or offer to buy or sell any securities or related financial instruments. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 07:47:52 -0700 (PDT) From: Kevin Crouch <kcrouching at yahoo.com> Subject: Correction on mash hop question. My post the other day on mash hop recipe tweaking was poorly worded. As Marc Sedam pointed out, mash hops add little bitterness to the beer. I didn't mean to make it sound as though they would contribute bitterness on par with a first wort hopping schedule. To achieve this, I would have to have far more time and far fewer wits than I don't have now. Kevin Crouch Vancouver, WA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 11:28:17 -0500 From: "Bill Pierce" <BillPierce at aol.com> Subject: Re: Potato Beer The recent discussion of potato beer made me remember a homebrewer by the name of John Dennehy who brewed an annual St. Patrick's Day beer he called Dennehy's Irish Potato Stout. It used five pounds (for 5 gallons) of boiled potatoes in the mash. I believe he assumed an extract potential of about 1.008 (potatoes have a high percentage of water). As Jeff Renner notes, potatoes do not need to be boiled in order to gelatinize the starches. One source I found indicated a gelatinization temperature of 60-65 C (140-149 F): http://www.ojaiorganics.com/pdb/specsheet.asp?which=176 This would not be a problem at typical mash temperatures. However, there is the issue of mashing raw potatoes, which makes boiling them convenient. I suppose one could use a food processor as an alternative. Brew on! - -- Bill Pierce Cellar Door Homebrewery Highwood, IL Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 6 Aug 2002 10:40:51 +1000 From: "Phil Yates" <phil.yates at acenet.com.au> Subject: Re: efficiency Darrell writes: >Perhaps I should slow down the runoff a bit and increase efficiency...? Hi Darrell I would say your drop in efficiency is definitely due to your increased run off rate. I am assuming no other parameters have changed. Some things just can't be rushed. Try tasting the spent grain in your lauter tun after run off has finished. I'll bet it still tastes a bit sugary. Some commercial breweries use a mash filter which simply crushes all the grain in the mash and extracts pretty much 100%. It is done to save time. Not likely to be seen in a homebrew set up unless you have a lot of money. Cheers Phil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 5 Aug 2002 20:36:02 -0500 From: "Steve Heffner" <potatopotato at earthlink.net> Subject: Fw: Chest freezer problems Jeff from OK wrote: <Help, my beer fridge is overflowing! <We have had temperatures near 100 and humidity around 60%. <The freezer is in the garage. <I noticed recently that the chest freezer was not cooling well. <It wouldn't cool below 60 degrees. I had an old Philco fridge from the 30s or 40s that I used for a decade for kegs in my basement. Then I moved and the fridge ended up in the garage. Two years later, I had the same problem, my beer was 60 deg., and also the fridge kept running. I discovered that the compressor had rotted out at the seam and the freon escaped. I blamed it on warm humid air pouring into a cold garage whenever the big door was opened, causing condensation on the compressor, and its 60 year old paint must've developed some cracks. Here around Chicago it's in the 90s and very humid in the summertime. Needless to say, my new '50s Westinghouse is not going in the garage. Maybe you can you can use the box for a lagering chamber? Hook it up to your chest freezer with some flexible duct and a computer fan with a controller. Good luck with your overflowing problems. If only I was in Oklahoma.... Steve Heffner La Grange, IL Return to table of contents
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