FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org *************************************************************** THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Northern Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies http://www.northernbrewer.com 1-800-681-2739 Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* Contents: It's SHMOO was re: yeast and schmoo tips ("Steve Alexander") Re: Exploding Stout (Kent Fletcher) Decoction Mashing ("Caryl Hornberger") RE: Club-only Comps ("Houseman, David L") Killian's Irish Red ("Mac") Saccharification During the Sparge? ("Fred L. Johnson") Re: Adjusting the schmoo (Peter Torgrimson) Mead ???? ("Mark Tumarkin") HERMS/pump query from HBD #3996 (David Towson) CF Chiller Cleaning Help Needed (Rick) german proverb translation? ("Larry Maxwell") Re: yeast and schmoo tips (Jeff Renner) RE: Classic American Pilsner - Latest easy recipe needed ("Dan Gross") Wind shroud ("Dan Gross") Re: Fermenting in your brew pot (Jeff Renner) Re: Classic American Pilsner - Latest easy recipe needed (Jeff Renner) Flooding in Plzen (Petr Otahal)
* * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping * * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! * Send articles for __publication_only__ to post@hbd.org If your e-mail account is being deleted, please unsubscribe first!! To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message with the word "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org FROM THE E-MAIL ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you cannot subscribe to the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not correct your address for the automation - that's your job. HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation is copyright HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by their authors. ASK before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. Digest content cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or profit. More information is available by sending the word "info" to req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen (janitor@hbd.org)
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 00:19:18 -0400 From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net> Subject: It's SHMOO was re: yeast and schmoo tips Paul Kensler ... >I have always read and heard that yeast >were non-sexual organisms that reproduced via >budding?... Most (S.cerevisea) yeast reproduction is asexual, but they can under the *right* conditions reproduce sexually. This feature has been used little in breeding studies for brewing yeast for a lot of technical reasons. Sexual reproduction has been used more extensively as part of selective breeding of bread yeast (also an S.cerevisea). Bottom line is that brewing yeast are not fornicating in the wort (but might on a plate or a surface colony) and W.C. Field's condemnation of water does not apply to beer. >On a related note, I seem to be growing my own schmoo >tip, protruding out the area centered around my navel. The Lil' Abner creature was a SHMOO not a schmoo, and if you've ever seen photomicrographs of the shmoo tip dimensions .... well you have a great future in porn or freak shows. The tip is up to 10 times the cell body length ! -S Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 22:25:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Exploding Stout Chuck Doucette had a small malt bomb go off in his basement. Chuck, I had the same experience with my first stout, also in a bucket. I happened to catch mine second before it spewed, walked in the door from work and saw the lid on that pail had morphed into a DOME!, the grout lines on the tile floor turned black in a six foot radius. So after that I have always used a blow off tube for the first few days of any bigger beers, and use carboys as well. Your stout will probably be fine, DEFINATELY do not throw it out before giving it a chance. Betcha it'll taste great, and you'll enjoy it all the more so the experience. Kent Fletcher brewing in So Cal - --- Request Address Only - No Articles <homebrew-request@hbd.org> wrote: > > > HOMEBREW Digest #4023 Sat 24 August > 2002 > > > FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES > Digest Janitor: janitor@hbd.org > > > *************************************************************** > THIS YEAR'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU > BY: > > Northern Brewer, Ltd. Home Brew Supplies > http://www.northernbrewer.com > 1-800-681-2739 > > Support those who support you! Visit our > sponsor's site! > ********** Also visit > http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* > > > Contents: > stuck ferment? (Randy Ricchi) > Re: re: yeast and schmoo tips ("Pete Calinski") > Club-only Comps ("H. Dowda") > Re: flooding in Pilsen ("Pete Calinski") > Fermentation and Temperature (John Scime) > Yeast reproduction - important clarification (Alan > Meeker) > RE: Czech floods (Paul Shick) > IPA, part 2 ("Adam Wead") > Pilsen ("Bryan Gros") > Re: Fermentation and Temperature (Demonick) > Re: Hops & schedule for Fullers ESB or Redhook ESB > clone (Paul Kalapathy) > Exploding Stout (Chuck Doucette) > Flooding in Pilsen ("Jim") > ESB/Judging again (Bill Wible) > Cellar Temps and Building Materials ("Charley > Burns") > Fullers or Redhook (Scott Perfect) > Re: Fermentation and Temperature (Kent Fletcher) > Re: Steves Treatise on Mashing (Kevin Crouch) > Hop Socks and such... ("Todd") > > > * > * Show your HBD pride! Wear an HBD Badge! > * http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/shopping > * > * Beer is our obsession and we're late for therapy! > * > > Send articles for __publication_only__ to > post@hbd.org > > If your e-mail account is being deleted, please > unsubscribe first!! > > To SUBSCRIBE or UNSUBSCRIBE send an e-mail message > with the word > "subscribe" or "unsubscribe" to request@hbd.org > FROM THE E-MAIL > ACCOUNT YOU WISH TO HAVE SUBSCRIBED OR > UNSUBSCRIBED!!!** > IF YOU HAVE SPAM-PROOFED your e-mail address, you > cannot subscribe to > the digest as we cannot reach you. We will not > correct your address > for the automation - that's your job. > > HAVING TROUBLE posting, subscribing or > unsusubscribing? See the HBD FAQ at > http://hbd.org. > > The HBD is a copyrighted document. The compilation > is copyright > HBD.ORG. Individual postings are copyright by > their authors. ASK > before reproducing and you'll rarely have trouble. > Digest content > cannot be reproduced by any means for sale or > profit. > > More information is available by sending the word > "info" to > req at hbd.org or read the HBD FAQ at http://hbd.org. > > JANITOR on duty: Pat Babcock and Karl Lutzen > (janitor@hbd.org) > > > - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 08:23:47 -0400 > From: Randy Ricchi <randyr at up.net> > Subject: stuck ferment? > > Adam Wead wonders if his fermentation is stuck. > > Adam, how do you know fermentation stopped > completely? Oftentimes > fermentation will be faster in the first two or > three days, then slow > somewhat. That doesn't mean it has stopped > fermenting completely. If > you're judging by airlock activity, it could be you > don't have a great > seal on the lid of your fermentor and now that > fermentation is slower, > the lower volume of CO2 is just leaking through the > lid. I wouldn't mess > around adding additional yeast now, only if you've > let it sit 3 weeks or > so and it is still a long way from being done. The > less mucking around > the better. > Wyeast 1056 is a very forgiving yeast and will > produce a delicious beer > when fermented in the mid 70's as you are. > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 08:48:45 -0400 > From: "Pete Calinski" <pjcalinski at adelphia.net> > Subject: Re: re: yeast and schmoo tips > > Paul Kensler says: > > "p.s. - for anyone unfamiliar with "the schmoo", he > was a cartoon character from Li'l Abner that got his > own show in the 80's. He was a round blobby sort of > creature, was white as a sheet, had a fuzzy > moustache > and could change shapes." > > I remember some other characteristics. A schmoo was > an ideal being. It > would clean house for you, drive the kids where ever > they needed to do, > could turn into money, would set the table, set the > oven, then hop in and > cook itself and come out tasting like chicken. > > Al Capp (I believe that was the author of the Li'l > Abner cartoon strip) was > a political satirist. His daily cartoon strip, in > addition to being quite > funny, had political or social undertones. > > Nobody picked up on the comment in my original post: > > "And I thought schmoo was how you adjusted core > memory." > > At the risk of dating myself, in the days before > computers had memory chips, > they had core memory. It was a magnetic technology > and required that > adjustment of the current through the cores. The > adjuster attached a > oscilloscope current probe to a special loop and > looked at the waveform. > The current was adjusted until it looked like a > schmoo; "round blobby sort > of creature". > > > What does that have to do with brewing? Maybe we > can adjust the shapes of > our schmoos. Nah, why bother. > > > Pete Calinski > East Amherst NY > Near Buffalo NY > > > *********************************************************** > *My goal: > * Go through life and never drink the same beer > twice. > * (As long as it doesn't mean I have to skip a > beer.) > *********************************************************** > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Fri, 23 Aug 2002 06:03:24 -0700 (PDT) > From: "H. Dowda" <hdowda at yahoo.com> > Subject: Club-only Comps > === message truncated === Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 00:46:33 -0500 From: "Caryl Hornberger" <carylmarx at hotmail.com> Subject: Decoction Mashing If higher temps cause tannins to be extracted from grain husks, then what about decoction mashing? Caryl Hornberger Slone Fort Wayne, IN Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 13:02:04 -0400 From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com> Subject: RE: Club-only Comps All judging forms, reports and materials were prepared and placed in envelopes on August 17, the day of the competition and went out with the Monday morning post. The results have been posted on the AHA web site: http://www.beertown.org/AHA/Clubs/clubonly_winners.htm David Houseman Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 13:09:13 -0500 From: "Mac" <D.McHenry at ev1.net> Subject: Killian's Irish Red I'm new to home brewing, on my second batch now. I was wondering if I could make a grain & extract beer that is similar to Killian's Irish Red? If this is possible, does someone have a recipe they would be willing to share? Thanks, Dennis McHenry Houston, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 13:11:51 -0400 From: "Fred L. Johnson" <fljohnson at portbridge.com> Subject: Saccharification During the Sparge? Kevin Crouch postulates that a lot of conversion of starch to sugars is going on during the sparge. He has observed that if he stops sparging for a short "rest" when his run off gravity begins to decrease, the gravity in the run off wort following this "rest" is considerably higher than before the "rest". He has interpreted this to indicate additional gelatinization and solubilization of starch from trapped granules in the grains and the enzymatic conversion of this starch to sugars. Kevin states: >For example, when my extract levels start to >dip during runoff, (If I haven't mashed out) I'll let >my mash rest 15 minutes or so and the runoff has >jumped up dramatically in gravity. Kevin, I believe when you interrupt sparging, you are simply allowing more time for the sugars dissolved in the water that is located within the nooks and crannies of the grains (the stationary phase of this gel filtration system) to diffuse into the water surrounding the grains (the mobile phase of this gel filtration system). This is the principal upon which most recommend sparging slowly rather than rapidly. If one sparges infinitely slowly (by stopping the flow completely), one is allowing infinite time for the dissolved sugars to diffuse out from the stationary phase into the mobile phase. I'm not suggesting that the following is a good way to extract these sugars, but I'd bet if you simply stirred the grain in the lauter tun when the gravity gets low, you would IMMEDIATELY see the rise in gravity. If so, you know it's not due to enzymes converting starches into sugars, it is simply a mixing of the mobile and stationary phases in this gel filtration column chromatography system. Batch sparging, by simply mixing additional sparge water in the grain bed, accomplishes the same thing as slowing/stopping the sparge and waiting for the sugars to diffuse into the water surrounding the grains. - -- Fred L. Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 15:22:11 -0500 From: Peter Torgrimson <petertorgrimson at prodigy.net> Subject: Re: Adjusting the schmoo I apologize for this off-topic post. Pete Calinski writes, "Nobody picked up on the comment in my original post: "And I thought schmoo was how you adjusted core memory." I admit I saw that and just let it pass. I suspect there are a lot of us who remember well those days of core memory. While some may remember them as the "good old days," I do not long for those days. Let's face it, the technology was really primitive then, at least in the hardware area. On the other hand, I see a lot of software now which seems to be suffering from reverse evolution. Many of today's solutions are inferior reinventions of elegant solutions developed decades ago. Of course, there is forward evolution also and there are many great new software solutions. I do like the new languages instead of assembly language. Nevertheless, there is a beauty and utility to assembly language. Although core memory is long gone, I still hear references to "core memory" although it really is semiconductor memory, and the speakers are too young to have been around for core memory and may not even know what the term means. To bring this back to beer, I sense that many long for the robust beers of long ago. My read of this is that today's beer at least the homebrew and craft brews) are probably better beer than much of the commercial beer brewed in previous centuries. My belief is that if something went wrong and the beer had problems, it was sold and drunk anyway. There was a much lower standard of quality than today. Peter Torgrimson Austin, TX Return to table of contents
Date: Sat, 24 Aug 2002 22:29:06 -0400 From: "Mark Tumarkin" <mark_t at ix.netcom.com> Subject: Mead ???? Now, I know it's illegal to distill, and you all know I'd never do something like that. But just thinking hypothetically, if one were to distill a mead, what would you call the product? Mead brandy just doesn't seem right, though I guess it works. Is there a better name for this? Mark Tumarkin Hogtown Brewers Gainesville, FL Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 01:30:41 -0400 From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net> Subject: HERMS/pump query from HBD #3996 I got way behind in my HBD reading again, so this reply to the following query is very late >Is anybody using their immersion chiller as their >HERMS coil? > >Is a 1/15 hp pump to much? I have a variable >transformer to back it down a bit. How hard is to >step mash with direct heat on the mash tun and the >pump? I use a recirculating mash rig from Beer, Beer & More Beer that came with an immersion coil that can be put in the HLT and used with the pump as a heating coil. When I first got the system, I decided to use direct heat under the mash tun instead, and since I have a very effective counterflow cooler, I put the immersion coil in the attic. But after having made several beers using direct heat under the mash tun, I had to admit that, while it worked, it was darned hard to control. The problem was that it was very difficult to throttle the burner down far enough to get just the right amount of heat to hold a fixed temperature once I had achieved it. The flame kept wanting to blow out with the burner running that low. I found that keeping the lid off the mash tun helped by increasing the rate of heat loss (which allowed me to use a bit higher flame), but it was a constant struggle to juggle the flame setting, and I was never able to set it and leave it. So I decided to try the immersion coil, and it works extremely well. In order to keep a constant temperature throughout the mash (avoid cooler mash near the outside of the vessel, where the heat loss is greatest), I keep the pump running all the time. That means the wort is constantly being circulated through the immersion coil. And while it might be possible to carefully control the temperature by playing with the HLT burner, that is really just the same problem shifted to a different vessel. So I built a "bypass loop" out of standard copper tubing fittings bought at a home improvement store. The loop includes a half-inch gate valve that allows me to adjust the amount of flow that bypasses the immersion coil. The loop has only about 18 inches of half-inch tubing in it, and that has much less flow friction than the 47 feet or so of half-inch tubing in the immersion coil, so most of the flow goes through the bypass loop if the valve is wide open. I used a gate valve because it has no need for a rubber washer, and it is easy to adjust. I have found that setting the temperature in the HLT about ten degrees above the desired mash temperature gives a good range of control using the valve, and I can consistently and quickly find a valve setting that gives a very stable mash temperature. To raise the temperature for a step mash, I just close the bypass valve, crank up the HLT burner until the water temperature is ten degrees higher than the next step temperature, then throttle it back to a reasonable "sustainer flame" and use the valve to adjust to the desired setpoint. A ten degree differential works for me, but that will depend on the diameter and length of tubing in the system, so it must be determined by experiment. The bypass loop makes the difference between a tricky adjustment and one that is really very simple. One final comment: Assuming that your pump is of the centrifugal type, I agree completely with the one other response to this query I've seen so far in regard to not using a variable transformer to control the pump. Use the preferred method of a valve on the OUTPUT of the pump to control the flow rate. This will work well for your 1/15 HP pump, even though that size is more than you really need. But don't rely on flow rate control to adjust the temperature of the mash. Adjust the flow so the recirculation is high enough to maintain a constant temperature throughout the mash, but not so high that the vacuum under the false bottom turns it into a piece of "modern artwork". I learned that lesson the hard way. Dave in Bel Air, Maryland Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 08:25:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Rick <ale_brewer at yahoo.com> Subject: CF Chiller Cleaning Help Needed I guess it's time to poll the brewing wizards out there. I just dumped my second batch in a row due to infection, a problem I haven't had in 7 years. I narrowed the problem down to my CF chiller (copper tube inside a garden hose design). I normally pump boiling water through it for sanitation so on my most recent batch, I went an extra step, by running hot caustic through it, then rinsing, then running boiling water for sanitizing. When I finished cooling the latest batch, I ran cold water immediately through it to clean it. When I disconnected the feed line, the backflow pulled out a couple of chunks of spent hops. Black ones. Apparently in a previous brew, my zealousness to get every drop of wort sucked some hops into the line. This confirmed my suspicion, but also puzzled me. How can these nasties still affect my finished beer when I've sanitized them multiple times? The flow rate seemed normal, so blockage didn't occur to me. It still seems normal but now I'm concerned about additional chunks that can be in there. Is there any way to physically clean the inside of a copper tube in a CFC? I tried water pressure, and Shop Vac pressure (using both vacuum and blowing methods). I was thinking about using copper house wire and feeding it through but then I got concerned about abrading the inner surfaces. Can anyone recommend a solution, to ease my mind? Rick Seibt Mentor, OH Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 11:38:17 -0400 From: "Larry Maxwell" <larrymax at bellsouth.net> Subject: german proverb translation? I have seen a number of people sign with the german proverb: In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria. Does anyone know how that is written in the original german? I'd prefer confirmation from someone familiar with it in german, rather than an off-the-cuff translation, as translations of an original from one language to another and then back again can sometimes be inaccurate. Thanks. Looking forward to my first Munich Oktoberfest in a few weeks. Larry Atlanta Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 13:16:38 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: yeast and schmoo tips Catching up after a great wedding for our daughter (much homebrewed beer was consumed - report to follow). Paul Kensler <paul_kensler at yahoo.com> wrote: >p.s. - for anyone unfamiliar with "the schmoo", he >was a cartoon character from Li'l Abner that got his >own show in the 80's. When you say he "got his own show," I wonder if you know the history of Li'l Abner, which was not a show (although maybe it was also) but a newspaper comic strip by Al Capp from 1934 to 1977. I read it throughout my youth and am sure Capp's social and political satire helped to form my own social and political views. It also spawned a Broadway musical, which my high school performed in 1963 or so. You can read about the Schmoo, which was a national phenomenon in the late 40s, at http://www.lilabner.com/shmoo.html: "The Shmoo first appeared in the strip in August 1948. According to Shmoo legend, the lovable creature laid eggs, gave milk and died of sheer esctasy when looked at with hunger. The Shmoo loved to be eaten and tasted like any food desired. Anything that delighted people delighted a Shmoo. Fry a Shmoo and it came out chicken. Broil it and it came out steak. Shmoo eyes made terrific suspender buttons. The hide of the Shmoo if cut thin made fine leather and if cut thick made the best lumber. Shmoo whiskers made splendid toothpicks. The Shmoo satisfied all the world's wants. You could never run out of Shmoon (plural of Shmoo) because they multiplied at such an incredible rate. The Shmoo believed that the only way to happiness was to bring happiness to others." Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 15:43:51 -0400 From: "Dan Gross" <degross at starpower.net> Subject: RE: Classic American Pilsner - Latest easy recipe needed William Menzl observes: >I am not all that ready to try decoction either >but someone may make it sound easy enough to convince me otherwise. William, Decoction is not very difficult, it just takes longer than other mash methods. You will be able to achieve your goal of multiple rests using a 5 gallon mash vessel without overflowing since with decoction you don't need to add hot liquor to raise the temp. I mash in a cooler too and use decoction when I have the time. Once you get comfortable with the process it is very enjoyable. Look at it this way, you will remove a portion of the mash and raise it to sachrafication long enough to extract the sugar, then slowly raise the temp until it is boiling. (That's the best part because it smells really good). The boiling hot decoction is then slowly returned to the main mash which raises it's temperature to the next rest. I think many homebrewers get hung up because they don't know how much mash to remove for each decoction. The simple answer is that you won't get it right the first time, or the second time, but by about the fourth or fifth you begin to do it without too much trouble. At the beginning you just use a thermometer to check the temp of the main mash as you add the decoction and stir it back into the mash tun. If you reach the next rest temperature and still have not added all the decoction, just wait a few minutes to let the decoction cool and then put it back into the main mash. And if you don't hit the rest temperature, not much is lost, simply adjust the next decoction to compensate. Things to remember are that the wort will darken significantly with decoction and of course it will take a lot longer to mash. Greg Noonan's book on lager beer has a very thorough description of different decoction mash schedules with suggestions of how much mash to pull with each decoction. Ok, I didn't make it sound simple at all, but it sure is fun. Dan Gross Olney, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 16:28:19 -0400 From: "Dan Gross" <degross at starpower.net> Subject: Wind shroud I have searched on HBD archives for any information about making a wind shroud for an outdoor cooker. So far no success and I wonder if anyone has suggestions about how to best construct a shroud for an outdoor cooker. I wonder if it is necessary to put holes in it to allow air to pass through and avoid gas buildup in case the flame goes out. I brew outside with a propane cooker that I bought at a homebrew store and boil in a 10 gallon pot. Of course the wind plays havoc with the flame causing the boil to ebb and flow. I have considered using a big piece of aluminum or sheet metal drilled full of holes that can be wrapped around the cooker to block the wind. Is there a better solution? thanks, Dan Gross Olney, Md Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 20:33:53 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Fermenting in your brew pot "Kenneth Peters" <kpeters6 at cox.net> asks: >I have a question for Jeff -when you say you ferment ales >in a ten gallon stock pot, is this the same kettle that you boiled it in? Do >you boil, cool, aerate and ferment without moving the liquor? Do you remove >the trub from the kettle? If so, when? Sounds like a labor saver to me and as >clumsy as I am, the fewer wort transfers the better. No, not in the boiler. I have a three vessel system, and I heat the sparge water in the HLT, then transfer it to an orange Igloo-type cooler, thus freeing it for double duty as a fermenter. I rack the chilled wort into this. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 20:48:26 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <JeffRenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: Classic American Pilsner - Latest easy recipe needed William Menzl <menzl at concentric.net> wrote from 100 miles north of [0,0] that he needs "Classic American Pilsner - Latest easy recipe": >I am looking to see if anyone has a >successful recipe with a similar grain bill (7lbs 6 row and 1.75 lbs flaked >maize) but with rests that can be done with infusion and still fit in my 5 >gallon Gott. I have thought about trying to do the four rest mash on my >Cajun cooker burner but I am not sure how easy it would be to control the >temperature on it without stirring it so much that I risk HSA. No sweat. Just mash in your grains to 146-148F for a more attenuated beer, or 153-155F for a less attenuated one (my preference is for the former) and let it sit for an hour. I have abandoned multiple rests except for the jump that adding the cereal mash gives me, plus a mashout. With flaked maize and no cereal mash, a single step works just fine. Just proceed as you would for any other mash and it should work fine. Do try to use fresh flakes as stale ones may break up and have been reported to give a slow sparge. besides, they can get rancid. Please report back on your results. this is a great brew! Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 26 Aug 2002 12:50:47 +1000 From: Petr Otahal <potahal at utas.edu.au> Subject: Flooding in Plzen This is a press release from the Plzensky Prazdroj website: <http://www.prazdroj.cz/>www.prazdroj.cz ************************************************** Damage Has Been Minimised Successfully Michal Kacena, 20.08.2002 Negotiations with the AIG insurance company are running, loss is being specified The definite level of loss incurred by Plzensky Prazdroj, a.s. as a consequence of the flood has not been determined as yet. The estimations are being specified through negotiations with experts from the insurance company. The loss may be ascribed to the short time interruption of production in the Pilsen plant, to the damage to parts of buildings and equipment close to the Radbuza river and to distribution stoppages. Distribution was affected by difficulties in transport that occurred in the flooded regions and by damage to equipment leased to outlets. As part of the international SABMiller group, the company has a coverage of all the described risks provided by the AIG international insurance company. Besides the first-class service given to the brewery in Pilsen and to the department of sales and distribution, this brings another benefit - no claims from domestic insurance companies already burdened enough. Experts appreciate that the loss in the brewery has been reduced considerably thanks to quality emergency plans and their strict observance. Most of the contributed to the minimisation of loss: colleagues from the Radegast brewery helped by applying their experience from a flood in Moravia in 1997. Owing to that, first dehydrators and generators were sent to Pilsen while water was still on the rise. Michal Kacena Corporate Affairs Manager Plzensky Prazdroj, a. s. ************************************************** Cheers Petr Otahal Tas. Aust. Return to table of contents
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