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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  steam RIMS/mash heating systems ... ("Steve Alexander")
  polarware false bottom (Alan McKay)
  Good Eats ("David Houseman")
  Fw: Beer line calcs ("Kevin Jones")
  RE:  Basic Stamp used for RIMS (hollen)
  re: Good Eats (Rama Roberts)
  Re: Welded coupling problem (Cameron LiDestri)
  Good Eats Brewing Recipe ("Hedglin, Nils A")
  Re: Welded coupling problem (Kent Fletcher)
  RE: mash/lauter tun ("Dan Gross")


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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 05:33:54 -0400
From: "Steve Alexander" <steve-alexander at worldnet.att.net>
Subject: steam RIMS/mash heating systems ...

After several recent posts on steam RIMS (whatever that means
 - just what is recirulating here - why RIMS) I think a few points
need clarification.  I'm pulling together ideas for an article on this
topic at the moment so this is already in my headlights.

One advantage of non-direct fired (NDF) systems is generally that
they are free of scorched wort concerns, but there are different dangers.
Submerged heating element systems provide electrical shock dangers
and the steam systems - especially the superheated steam systems -
introduce dangers of a steam leak (can cause severe burns) and the
worst case scenario is a steam vessel explosion.   I'd strongly advise
against amateur built pressurized steam systems.

Someone suggested heated oil as a medium in a jacketed vessel.  A
liquid heat transfer media with a BP above 212F/100C (like some oils)
are probably a lot safer than pressurized steam system, but obviously
dealing with these is a PITA and requires hi-temp pumps. 

 -S






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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 06:56:34 -0400
From: Alan McKay <amckay at neap.net>
Subject: polarware false bottom


Well, I don't have a polarware, but today I am going to install
the Zymie weld-b-gone into my alu pot, and I'll be making a manifold
exactly like the one in my mashtun which you can see here :
http://www.bodensatz.com/gallery/MashTun

I've used a gooseneck for years with tremendous success :
http://www.bodensatz.com/staticpages/index.php?page=20020429190941604
But now that I'll have a spigot in the pot I'm going to the
manifold.  Though they are basically the same thing.

cheers,
 -Alan

- -- 
http://www.bodensatz.com/
The Beer Site (tm)


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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 07:47:30 -0400
From: "David Houseman" <housemanfam at earthlink.net>
Subject: Good Eats

Wednesday night Alton Brown did a half hour program on homebrewing on the
Food Network, a national program.  While there were a number of technical
errors in the script (probably written by someone who doesn't know brewing
or homebrewing), in general this was a very good first introduction to
homebrewing for the general population.   Hopefully this will get the
attention of many non-homebrewers and we'll see an uplift in the hobby over
the next few months, particularly into the holiday season.  Worth reviewing
if it's on again.

David Houseman



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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:17:08 -0500
From: "Kevin Jones" <mrkjones at mindspring.com>
Subject: Fw: Beer line calcs


You know, one of the things I love about homebrewing (I call it personal
brewing) is that there is something in it for everyone.  Some brewers get
excited about extract efficiency, others about gadgets, some about making
the perfect clone beer.  You guys know what I mean.  Me, I'm a results guy.
I have fun making it, but the bottom line is having a great beer to enjoy.

I built my keggerator from a single door frig.  I now sports four taps
including a alumasc faucet (they said that one would never work without
nitrogen.  Pours just like a Guinness).  Before I started building it, I
read all I could find about line length, I.D.'s and pressure drops, vertical
lift variables, faucet types.  I got beer glasses half full of foam.  I
ordered 50' of 5/16 ID hose, cut it into four lengths of beer line and
connected them from my four corney kegs to the faucets.  I then trimmed the
lengths over time (good ole trial and error) until I liked the results.
Don't ask me how long each beer line is now...I don't care.  I enjoy four of
my favorite beers with just the right head (personal judgment).

I do have plans to move to another house, build my ultimate brewery in the
basement and run beer lines to several strategic places, like the back deck
near the hot tub, kitchen, and wet bar next to the pool table, etc.  I'm
thinking about how to keep the beers lines refrigerated but I'm not worried
about how long they will be.

Drink Better Beer!
Kevin Jones



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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 10:59:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: hollen at woodsprite.com
Subject: RE:  Basic Stamp used for RIMS


on 10/10/2002 Kent Fletcher said:

KF> 4. RIMS heating elements can be found at Home Depot or
KF> any well stocked plumbing supply house.

Have you actually found low density elements at Home Depot or any other
plumbing supply or are you just "supposing"???  In my experience, the only
elements available to "the home owner" at a retail outlet of any sort are
HIGH WATT DENSITY.  These elements are typically 1500 watts in an element
with a length of about 10 inches folded.  This gives a watt density of:

	surface area = cross sectional circumference * full length
	CSC =  diameter * pi
	CSC = 3/8" * 3.14.....
	CSC = 1.17809
	surface area = 1.17809 * 20 (length unfolded)
	SA = 23.5619 square inches
	watt density = watts / sq. in.
	WD = 1500 / 23.5619
	WD = 63.66 watts per square inch

While a properly sized element like Mark Alfaro mentions, a 240V 6000 watt
element run on 120V produces the same 1500 watts, but is 88" long when
completely stretched out, the cross sectional diameter remains the same
as the tubes are the same diameter, but the watt density equation changes:

        CSC = 1.17809
        surface area = 1.17809 * 88 (length unfolded)
        SA = 103.67192 square inches
        WD = 1500 / 103.67192
        WD = 14.468 watts per square inch

A watt density figure of around 15 is what one should strive for.  If you
need more heat capacity, do not make the mistake of increasing the watt
density, increase the amount of surface area of the heater WITHOUT
increasing or decreasing the watt density.  If your upward boost rate is
not fast enough get a second element and put it in series with the first.
You don't even need to put it on a temperature controller.  Just plug it
in to the wall directly during boost, and then when you get to the
setpoint, unplug it.  Your original element controlled by whatever your
temperature controller is, will take over and maintain the setpoint.  Be
aware that when you unplug the secondary element the return wort temp will
drop by a couple of degrees, but your original element will take care of
that in short order.  Later on, if you so desire, you can add to the
amperage capacity of your controller (usually by adding an additional SSR)
and have both elements automatically controlled.  But by manually
switching the second element on and off, you can get the extra heat
capacity with very little modification to your system.  I am currently
using this method.  My original Morris style home-built controller handles
a 5000 watt element, and the auxilary elements are two 6000 watt elements.
Works like a charm.  I am, of course, setting this up eventually with a
PID controller and two SSRs.  The original controller and element will be
relegated to my "small batch system" while the two new elements and the
PID will be on my large mashtun that can handle about 30 lbs. of grain.

dion

- --
Dion Hollenbeck  Email:  hollen at woodsprite.com
Home Page:       http://www.woodsprite.com
Brewing Page:    http://hbd.org/hollen



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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:02:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rama Roberts <rama at eng.sun.com>
Subject: re: Good Eats

I watched the Good Eats episode ("Amber Waves") also, and was a little
disappointed at first, but then realized I couldn't do any better in 30
minutes. I don't know if I would recommend that to a newbie brewer without
a few caveats though, for the same reasons you mentioned. Sanitizing in
bleach is sketchy, using 1/2 lb. speciality grain for an extract batch is
minimal, using an "ale" yeast to brew an ale with no mention of the style,
etc. I caught that "dry hopping" mistake too. 
On the flip side, I thought he did an excellent job covering the need for
sanitation (althought wearing latex gloves while bottling is a bit
paranoid.) 

Alton Brown also has a cook book of sorts, which is really good. Instead
of throwing a bunch of recipes out with no mention of 'how' or 'why',
Brown takes it from the opposite direction. He explains the basic
procedures like searing, boiling, baking, etc and when and why to use each
of them, so you can go off on your own as a cook rather than being slave
to a recipe. Details from amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1584790830

- --rama 



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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 09:08:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Cameron LiDestri <clidestri at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Welded coupling problem


> Date: Thu, 10 Oct 2002 09:48:46 -0400
> From: "Michael Hackney" <mhackney at micromationsciences.com>
> Subject: Welded coupling problem
> 

> but I can't attach anything to the coupling from the inside because
> the
> hole on the inside of the keg wall is too small.
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to enlarge (ream) the
> opening
> of the hole from the inside of the keg without messing up the
> threads
> on the coupling?  I thought there might be some type of reaming
> tool that I
> could use to enlarge it, but it would have to be tough enough to
> penetrate
> SS.  How about a large countersink bit on a short profile drill?

How about a Dremel with a cutoff wheel to trim off little
cresent-moons from the keg? Or maybe a grinding attachment to nibble
it back without hitting the threads? The small size of the tool might
be the solution.


=====
 -Cam



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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 11:19:59 -0700
From: "Hedglin, Nils A" <nils.a.hedglin at intel.com>
Subject: Good Eats Brewing Recipe

> Hi all,
>   In case you're interested, here's a link to recipe from the 
> Good Eats show this week.
> 
> http://www.foodtv.com/foodtv/recipe/0,6255,23949,00.html
> 
> Warning, it's pretty scary in some areas.
> 
> Nils Hedglin
> Sacramento, CA
> [1978.7, 275.3] Apparent Rennerian


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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 16:09:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kent Fletcher <fletcherhomebrew at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Welded coupling problem

Michael Hackney has a 'Hacked' keg:
 
> I have a keg that was partially converted; Here's
> what I mean by that.
> I handed a keg and two 1/2" stainless couplings to a
> welder
> to have them welded on to the keg.  The only problem
> is that when he made
> the hole in the kegs sidewall where the couplings
> would be attached,
> he made it smaller in diameter then the coupling. 
> So now I can attach
> things (i.e., pipe nipples, thermometers ....) to
> the outside of the keg,
> but I can't attach anything to the coupling from the
> inside because the
> hole on the inside of the keg wall is too small.
> 
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to
> enlarge (ream) the opening
> of the hole from the inside of the keg without
> messing up the threads
> on the coupling?  I thought there might be some type
> of reaming tool that I
> could use to enlarge it, but it would have to be
> tough enough to penetrate
> SS.  How about a large countersink bit on a short
> profile drill?
> 
> Thanks
> Michael Hackney

I think a countersink might work, the key is to keep
the speed fairly slow and use cutting fluid.  Other
options would be a Unibit or "bullet shaped" mounted
abrasive in a die grinder.  Hope that helps.

Kent Fletcher
Brewing in So Cal



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Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2002 21:43:59 -0400
From: "Dan Gross" <degross at starpower.net>
Subject: RE: mash/lauter tun

Brian asks how much grain a 10gallon Gott cooler will hold.

I have mashed 21 lbs in this cooler without any problems.

Dan Gross
Olney, Md



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