---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Re: Grains of Paradise ("Ken Taborek")
  re: WL vs Wyeast & others (Andrew Larkin)
  Saflager23/Safale04/Safbrew33 ("Mark Kellums")
  Boil Temperature Seals (Andrew Larkin)
  RE: Brewing as a profession ("Boris")
  OT: Hamfests, not just for hams anymore (Mark Kempisty)
  Saflager ("Houseman, David L")
  Brewing as a Job ("Dan Listermann")
  Saf* yeasts ("Drew Avis")
  Re: Lifting 5 Gal into Chest Freezer (Denny Conn)
  Re: OxyClean (Denny Conn)
  Re: Water results.. (Rama Roberts)
  hop utilization, Designing Great Beers ("dave holt")
  Electric Kettles Scorching (Ronald La Borde)
  magnetic stir bar ("Steve Funk")
  Ayinger yeast (Jeff Renner)
  How Crappy Is Corona? (Jennifer/Nathan Hall)
  RE: Gluing Acrylic (Bob Sheck)


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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 01:01:54 -0500
From: "Ken Taborek" <Ken.Taborek at verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Grains of Paradise

> Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 10:41:55 -0500
> From: David Towson <dtowson at comcast.net>
> Subject: Re: Grains of Paradise
[snipped]

> Thanks to Jeff Renner for answering my query concerning grains of
> paradise.  I have been curious to try this spice ever since I
> learned about
> it while perusing recipes a couple weeks ago.  Where do you get it, Jeff?
>
> Dave in Bel Air, MD


Dave,

I can't speak for where Jeff got his GoP, but being in Bel Air you're not
far from where I bought mine, at Maryland Homebrew (www.mdhb.com).

HTH.

- --
Cheers,
Ken



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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 23:16:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Larkin <aj_larkin at yahoo.com>
Subject: re: WL vs Wyeast & others

What problems have folks had with Wyeast 1968?  Poor attenuation,
or something worse?  They say this is a great yeast to use for
bottle conditioned ales because the beer will clear well in the
bottle and the yeast will stick to the bottom making it easy
to pour.



Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 01:19:27 -0600
From: "Mark Kellums" <infidel at springnet1.com>
Subject: Saflager23/Safale04/Safbrew33

Does anyone have a description of the two SafLager dry yeasts re
flavor & performance ?

 -S

Steve,
I've tried the Saflager 23 in three beers at room temps and found it to make
a very nice ale. IMO it has a soft fruitiness and all three beers turned out
very well. I've used the Safale 04 several times as well. It floccs well, is
unattenuative and  malty. It reminds me of Wyeast 1968. I've used the
Safbrew 33 once in a blonde ale fermented at 78 degrees. At that temp it was
extremely fruity like pineapple/grapefruit but not unpleasant. It took two
months in the fridge for the fruitiness to calm down. As often happens the
last two glasses were fantastic. It floccs very slowly. I'll have to try
this one again at a lower temperature.

Mark Kellums
Decatur Il.



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Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2002 23:22:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Andrew Larkin <aj_larkin at yahoo.com>
Subject: Boil Temperature Seals

Visit page 3181 of the Mcmaster Carr catalog (www.mcmastercarr.com).
It has a table of properties of o-ring materials including compression
set, resistance to cold water, hot water, steam, acids, etc.   For hot
water it looks like teflon, EPDM, and silicone are a good bet.



Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:34:43 +0100
From: "Boris" <deMesones at terra.es>
Subject: RE: Brewing as a profession

Many articles have been written about this issue in the HBD recently but, as
far as I understand, non of the authors have followed the professional
brewing path.

In the Australian homebrewers forum somebody just asked directly:

>Interested in getting some feedback from list members who are
>commercial brewers or considering entering the industry.

I thought maybe it would be good to write what I did to enter the industry
to help others to make and take their own decisions.

I am a Spaniard born in Madrid, I got a MSc in Economics in a Spanish
university and an MBA in an English university. I was working in the city of
London, initially  as a banking systems broker and later as a programmer of
financial software packages. My salary was 6 figures in Euros.

But I did not like my job, it did not fulfil my expectances, it had nothing
special and exciting. In England I discovered the brewpub industry, bought
my first home brewing kit and in a few weeks I built my first full mash
brewery at home.

One day, I thought -that is the way to go- I quit my job, I sold my house
and sent an application form to the German brewing school in Berlin, VLB. I
was accepted.

Off course, most of the people thought I was crazy, but I knew they were
just slaves of their own jobs and were not brave enough to take a decision
like mine. Internally they would like but externally they found lots of
excuses to convince themselves they were right in not doing anything (no
nothing, as usual).

I spent almost two years in Germany from 1997 until 1999. First I got my
degree, second I worked in two brewpubs in Berlin. One with an east German
brewer and another one with a west German brewer. Very interesting were the
different points of view of both brewers, in relation to brewing and in
relation to society and culture.

After spending, probably the two most interesting years of my life in
Berlin, I came back to Madrid with the idea of setting up my own brewpub.
Initially I thought it would be good to find some investors to help me out
with the capital. I found them, but they had lots of ideas which were not
very similar to mines, and they had no idea and no passion about brewing. I
said no to their demands.

I decided to build myself the brewery for a low cost to avoid any other
people taking decisions in my own business. I attended a stainless steel 5
month welding course and built a 60 liters home brewery. Later I made the
design of a 600 liters brewery and began to build it recently.

Five months ago a businessman, who has a chain of 7 brewpubs around Spain
called me an offered me a job as head brewmaster. I told him -I accept, but
I will still build my own brewery-. He replied  - I do not have any problem
about it, maybe I can help you in the future-

So . I accepted the job, I control the brewing operations of the 7 brewpubs,
train their brewers, taste all the beers, speak with the women of the
specialised press (hei . they are usually all women !), go to radio
stations, go to regional TV. Spend lots of time speaking with would be
potential homebrewers at the brewpubs. I brew what ever I want as long as I
keep the two main brews, a lager and an alt.

I believe it is the best job in the world. The salary is not the same as
before, but who cares, now I am happy and before I was not. Now I have lots
of time to do what I like and before I had not. Now I live at home in Spain
and before I did not.

Somebody wrote in the HBD recently about the worst aspects about
professional brewing, without any positive one, so, I will not write about
them. I just ask you -make a list of the worst aspects of your own job, and
maybe the list could be longer-.

I expect to have my own small brewpub in one year time with an investment of
120.000 Euros. Do not think is impossible, I am almost there! It is a
question of doing yourself almost everything. Maybe somebody will think I
have lots of money. I have not.

If somebody wants information about brewing schools, I publish a web page in
Spanish language at cerveceria.info were you can find at the bottom-left
links to many schools under the title -escuelas de cerveceros-. A small
scale brewing manual is included and you can subscribe for free to a weekly
newsletter as well, both written in Spanish language.

In Spain we have a say - Valor y al toro !
It is used in bullfighting and means more or less - Courage and go for the
bull !

Hope my broken English was understandable. This article goes to the HBD and
Australian forum.

If you come to Madrid . dont forget to drop me an email.

Salud ! y hasta la vista.

Boris de Mesones






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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 07:32:57 -0500
From: Mark Kempisty <kempisty at pav.research.panasonic.com>
Subject: OT: Hamfests, not just for hams anymore

Dave Holt mentions he got his pump at a hamfest.

To the uninitiated a hamfest is an Amateur Radio flea market typically
sponsored by a local Amateur Radio club to help with their finances.
You can find all sorts of goodies but radio and non-radio related.  I
have found one or two items I use for brewing at them.  You can search
the web to see if there are any Amateur Radio clubs in your area or go
to www.arrl.org.

A typical $5 to $10 admission (cheaper than most computer shows) is all
that is asked.  If you have stuff you would like to sell (and it doesn't
have to be radios), you can get a tailgater or an indoor spot at many
locations.

For those in the Philadelphia area, the Warminster Amateur Radio Club
will be holding its annual hamfest on Sunday May 4th , 2003 at the
Middletown Grange Fairgrounds, Wrightstown, PA. It will open at 7 A.M.
(Vendors at 6 A.M.)  More information is available at
http://www.k3dn.org/hamfest.htm.  All are welcome to attend.

If you have ever wanted to become a Amateur Radio operator, it is now
easier than ever.  Morse code is no longer required for the entry level
license and higher level licenses only require 5 words per minute (which
anyone can learn in a week).  The Volunteer Examiner Program means you
do not have to trek to the FCC field office but can take them locally,
even in your home if circumstances require it.


Take care & 73,
Mark Kempisty N3GNW & Homebrewer
President
Warminster Amateur Radio Club
www.k3dn.org





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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:47:58 -0500
From: "Houseman, David L" <David.Houseman at unisys.com>
Subject: Saflager

Steve asks "Does anyone have a description of the two SafLager dry yeasts re
flavor & performance?"

I do have experience with Saflager S-23.  I haven't tried the other.  From
my expience this is a very clean yeast.  At lager fermentation temperatures
(45-50oF) it produced a clean, maltly result.  I use this in a number of
lager styles, last with CAPs.  I have also used this yeast at ale
temperatures (65oF) with good results as well.  The resulting cream ale was
slightly fruity but with no off flavors.  I made essentially a CAP wort and
fermented 10 gallons at 65oF.  Five gallons used Saflager S-23 while the
other 5 gallons used Safale.  Both were kegged and lagered at 34oF.  Both
resulted in very drinkable beers.  The Saflager yielded a cream ale that was
more commercial cream ale-like with a cleaner flavor and aroma while the
Safale was indeed more ale-like with more esters.  Neither had phenolics or
excess diacetyl.  Although I fined both with gelatin, there was still a
slight chill haze.  While I like and have used both White Labs and Wyeast
products, with our local store closing, it's more convenient to keep dry
yeast on hand for that spur-of-the-moment brewing.  I recommend Saflager as
an alternative to the liquid yeasts, but experiment on which styles it
yields the best results for you.

Dave Houseman



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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:56:42 -0500
From: "Dan Listermann" <dan at listermann.com>
Subject: Brewing as a Job

 "greg man" <dropthebeer at hotmail.com> writes:


<I agree that it is a risky business to start especially a brewpub because
<first you have to have a successful restaurant, an that's hard to start as
<well.

I have come to question this bit of conventional wisdom.  Restaurants have a
horrible failure rate.  The bet with a brewpub is that the beer will
increase traffic enough to increase the odds of survival while paying for
the brewhouse.  It is my belief that restaurant biz is too fickle for this
strategy to work reliably.  Starting a restaurant is a huge undertaking and
operating it is still another.  I believe that the corner bar that brews its
own beer has a good future, especially an established bar.  Bars generally
have a better survival rate than restaurants if the urge to be hyper trendy
is resisted.  Go to your neighborhood bar and think "how would this place do
if the bartender brewed the beer and it only cost about $20 a keg to
produce?"

Dan Listermann

Check out our E-tail site at www.listermann.com

Free shipping for orders greater than $35
and East of the Mighty Miss.






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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 10:34:15 -0500
From: "Drew Avis" <andrew_avis at hotmail.com>
Subject: Saf* yeasts

Steve Alexander asks:
> Does anyone have a description of the two SafLager dry yeasts re flavor &
performance ?

I've been using the DCL dried yeasts ever since Paddock Wood started
carrying them (1.5 years ago?), and the guys in the local club have become
addicted to the stuff (almost as much as they're addicted to beer...) There
are three lager strains we've tried: S-23, S-189 and S34/70, as well as
K-97, T-58, S-33, and (of course) S-04.

S-04 first: this is a fabulous ale yeast, very vigorous, highly flocculent.
When I first used it I compared it to WY1968 on RCB, due to how quickly it
drops out, and the nice malty beer it produces.  Several other brewers have
tried it and consider it closer to a London strain (WY1028).

S-23: a fairly neutral, forgiving lager yeast, though I've found it's a bit
fruity, especially at higher gravities.

S-189: an excellent lager strain, perhaps comparable to the Munich lager
strain. A local guy uses it at higher temps (60-65) with good results.  Much
less fruity than S-23.  Ferments well at 48F

S-34/70: my favourite of the three lagers, excellent for lighter lagers,
CAPs, etc, anything where you want the hops to stand out.  It produces a
very balanced, delicate beer. The DCL site says this is the Weihenstephan
34/70 strain, which would be WY2206.  Ferments well at 46-48F.

These three need to be pitched big.  I know DCL makes the S-04 and S-23 in
11gr packs.  PW re-packs the 34/70 and S-189 in 20 gr packs, which seems
like a more reasonable amount for 5 gal batches.

I recently tried Alan McKay's koelschy made w/ K-97, and it was fabulous.
This is a very clean, very slightly fruity ale yeast, perhaps best compared
with WY1007.  The T-58 is spicy (clovey, a bit of banana, though not much) -
I've used it to make hefeweisen, and tasted a couple of very nice wits made
with it by other brewers.  Not sure what WY this would compare to, as I've
only used 3944, and it's similar but not the same.

Finally, S-33 - I've never used it, but it's not getting great reviews
around here.  It seems to have a slightly funky flavour, and takes forever
to flocculate.

So there you go, Steve, and I guess my answer to your "Which do you prefer,
Wyeast or White Labs" question would be: neither!  I prefer DCL.

Cheers!
Drew Avis, Merrickville, Ontario ~ http://www.strangebrew.ca


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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:49:40 -0800
From: Denny Conn <denny at projectoneaudio.com>
Subject: Re: Lifting 5 Gal into Chest Freezer

Victor,

I recently picked up a WortWizard (www.wortwizard.com) to move my wort from 
the kettle to the fermenter.  It's a water powered venturi pump system.  It 
has a 4 ft. head, so it should be able to do what you need.  I've been 
extremely pleased with mine, and found the manufactures, Island Brewing 
Products, to be quick, helpful, and friendly.  Best of all, it's only 
$23.95...a lot less than the pump I was thinking of buying!  Check out the 
website and email them if you have any questions.

         ------------->Denny Conn

At 12:40 AM 12/18/02 -0500, you wrote:


>Date:  Tue, 17 Dec 2002 07:45:29 -0700
>From: Victor.E.Franklin at bankofamerica.com
>Subject:  Lifting 5 Gal into Chest Freezer
>
>
>
>I have been considering getting a chest freezer to do my fermenting/
>laagering in (Phoenix is hot in the summer), but I started thinking; How the
>heck am I gonna lift 5 gallons of wort into a chest freezer? (bad
>shoulders).
>Should I use one of the pumps that has been mentioned in earlier posts?  I
>can't really think of any other way...
>
>
>Victor Franklin




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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 08:53:02 -0800
From: Denny Conn <denny at projectoneaudio.com>
Subject: Re: OxyClean

Well, Joe, there's not much to it...you add a couple scoops of Oxyclean to 
your carboy, fill it with warm water, wait a little while, and it's 
clean.  I've been using Oxyclean to clean carboys and kegs for the last 
couple years..works great and it's fairly inexpensive.

         ------------------>Denny Conn

At 12:40 AM 12/18/02 -0500, you wrote:

>------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 17 Dec 2002 12:19:08 -0500
>From: "Joe Stump" <joestump at adelphia.net>
>Subject: OxyClean
>
>Does anyone have any information on cleaning carboys and such with OxyClean?
>
>
>




Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 11:49:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Rama Roberts <rama at retro.eng.sun.com>
Subject: Re: Water results..

>These are the water test results I just found while rummaging around in the
>files here at the homestead.. are these of any use to me? Anything pop out
>as being undesirable or outright "bad" that I should take care of, from a
>beer making standpoint?
>
>PH: 7.78
>Turbidity: 1.7
>Chlorine Residual: ND
>
>Nitrite N: <.05
>Nitrate N: .42
>Iron: .05
>Manganese: ND
>Sulfate: 5
>Sodium: 13
>Hardness: 44
>Chloride 2

Assuming those numbers are measured as PPM,  I think you're low on some 
critical ions. I'll defer to the resident water chemists like AJ, but I'd start 
with adding some Calcium Sulfate (gypsum) to bump up the calcium and sulfate. 

Check out the sections on water reports and brewing water adjustment on John 
Palmer's site:
http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter15-1.html

- --rama



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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:57:18 -0700
From: "dave holt" <brewdave at hotmail.com>
Subject: hop utilization, Designing Great Beers

I've have greatly increased my brewing library in the quest of beer 
education.  Thanks to those here for the recommendations.

I've been reading Ray Daniel's book "Designing Great Beer" lately.  A warm 
up before I tackle textbooks like DeClerck.  Anyway, IMHO an enjoyable book.

In Chapter 9, Hops and Hops Bitterness, there is a statement that needs 
expanded a little bit for me.  Pg 78 talks about there are a number of 
factors that can affect hop utilization that are related to kettle boil.  
The statement is; "...because water boils at a lower temperature at higher 
elevation, altitude must be considered if you are brewing above 3000 feet or 
so."

No further explanation is given.

I'm familiar with Arrhenius Equation and the relationship between 
temperature and rate of reaction.  I'm guessing that at higher altitude, the 
lower boiling temp means slower isomerization of the alpha acids.  Which in 
turn means, a longer boil is needed to achieve the same IBUs as compared to 
altitudes below 3000 ft.  Is this a reasonable assumption?

The next question is how much should I adjust the boil time if this is 
correct.  I guess I could crunch numbers through Arrhenius Equation for 212 
F and the boiling temp at altitude and come up with an 'adjustment factor' 
for boiling time.

If Ray Daniels is still around, I would like to hear his thoughts on this 
and/or point me to some references.

Why this is of interest to me, is that I brew at approx. 1000 ft elevation 
in the Phoenix area and at 7800 ft in Northern Arizona.  Never thought about 
hop utilization being affected by altitude before reading this book.

Dave Holt
Chandler, AZ
Forest Lakes, AZ




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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 14:25:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Ronald La Borde <pivoron at yahoo.com>
Subject: Electric Kettles Scorching

Several people have been asking about using the high
density 4500 watt elements in the kettle.  The concern
seems to be about scorching.

I can tell you that there is no need to worry - fear
not! With the 4500 watt element on 240 volts, there is
no scorching with even the cheapest high density water
heater type element.  I am using a PWM controller to
tame the boil once it starts.  Without the controller,
the wort literally trys to jump out of the kettle!

I have brewed Pilsners, Wheat beers, and such with
absolutelly no scorching.  The secret here is that the
element is IN THE WORT all the time.  With the RIMS
element in a small chamber type of heating equipment,
here scorching is a real problem because wort flow
through the heating chamber must continue at all times
 - this requires that you do not ever have a stuck mash
with the element powered on.  Does this sound somewhat
problematic?

One tip, after each brewing session, clean the element
in place using TSP, BKF, or something with a plastic
scrubby.  Wort will leave some deposits on the element
and if not cleaned after several brew sessions, a
coating will build up and insulate the element from
the wort and can actually cause the element to self
destruct.  How do I know this? I will leave it as an
exercise for the imaginative thinkers.  ;>))

Happy Brewing


=====
Ron
Ronald J. La Borde -- Metairie, LA
New Orleans is the suburb of Metairie, LA
www.hbd.org/rlaborde



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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 15:23:13 -0800
From: "Steve Funk" <stevefunk at hotmail.com>
Subject: magnetic stir bar

Hello hbd group-
I use a 10-gal beverage cooler for my HLT/HERM system that is equipped with 
a heating element.  The cooler sits on a 12"x12" magnetic stir plate.  I 
have been using a Teflon coated lab stir bar but it doesn't swirl the column 
of water very well.  I tried looking for a larger stir bar (mine is 2"L x 
3/8" dia) and cannot find one outside of the high-priced scientific supply 
houses.  Does anyone know where I can find a large stir bar for a decent 
price?  I have a veterinarian large animal magnet that is about 3" long and 
1/2" in dia but it is not Teflon coated.  It appears to be made of a metal 
alloy that doesn't really rust (had it in the garage for a long time).  Do 
any metallurgist types in hbd-land know if using this magnet in my HLT would 
cause any metal leaching or other problems?  Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Steve Funk
Brewing in the beautiful Columbia River Gorge
[1887.2, 290.3] Apparent Rennerian
Does this seem correct?




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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:25:51 -0500
From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net>
Subject: Ayinger yeast

[This didn't go through the first time, so I'm reposting it.  Hope it 
doesn't appear twice, but the digest haven't been full, so I guess it 
doesn't really matter.  --J]

Brewers

As many of you know, after something like ten years of supplying 
slants and yeast culturing equipment, Dan McConnell has shut down his 
Yeast Culture Kit Co.  Among other consequences, this makes the 
Ayinger lager yeast unavailable commercially.

When I heard this, I planned to see if Chris White of WhiteLabs might 
be interested in carrying it, but Marc Sedam beat me to the punch. 
It was scheduled to be a Platinum Series yeast for September/October, 
2003 with the name of WLP833 Bock Yeast.

There has been quite a discussion about this on HBD and Oz 
CraftBrewing.  Some people were lamenting the loss of this great 
yeast, others thought that no one would recognize it without the 
Ayinger name, and I received a number of emails to see if I could 
help folks get slants (I can't - I'm not a yeast rancher).

I emailed Chris White telling him of our discussions and encouraging 
him to consider renaming the yeast.  I got a better answer than I had 
expected:

At 6:48 PM -0800 12/18/02, Chris White wrote:
>Jeff,
>
>We are going to make a change and have WLP833 available all year, and make
>WLP920 a platinum strain, instead of year round.   We are going to have to
>reprint some things, but after seeing the interest in this strain, I think
>we should make it available.  We won't be able to have it by Jan1, but
>hopefully by the middle of January.  We are currently doing some lab work
>and trials with it.  I think due to time we will need to keep the German
>Bock name, but if you have a better suggestion that doesn't include the
>brewery or town, I'd be interested.  Thanks for your input,
>
>Chris

How about this, boys and girls?  The power of the consumer!  It will 
be available year 'round!  Now it's up to us to keep it in the 
lineup.  If people us it, they'll recognize its great quality and 
versatility.

I have sent Chris some name suggestions, and he says he welcomes 
other suggestions from you all.  Post them here and cc me and I'll 
forward them to him.

As I wrote to Chris, I really like this strain.  It is very balanced, 
emphasizing neither malt nor hops.  Because of this, it is perhaps 
not suited to north German dry Pilsners, but I have been very happy 
with it for all other lagers I've used it for, including Helles, 
Fest/Marzen, Bock (naturally), all-malt Pilsners and Classic American 
Pilsners (where I get a crisp, hoppy profile and 80% AA, but the malt 
still comes through).  It has achieved cult status in Australia and 
North America, and I think it has users in UK, South Africa and 
Scandinavia as well.

A name should, it seems to me, be distinctly German but 
understandable, and should not imply a certain style of beer.  If it 
could somehow imply its origin, that would be a plus.  I had thought 
there was more than one brewery in Aying, but I now think there is 
only Ayinger.  So references to Aying are clearly out.

I have a few thoughts just off the top of my head - South Bavarian 
(too much like Old Bavarian?), Kellerbier (unfiltered "cellar" beer), 
Fassbier (draft beer), Altbairisch (I think that only means Old 
Bavarian, but it is the name of an Ayinger product), Gasthof, 
Gasthaus, Biergarten, Alpenlager, Oberbayern (Upper Bavaria, the part 
of Bavaria that Ayinger is in the heart of).

One more thing - there is, as far as I know, no supplier of yeast 
slants now.  I asked Chris if he was interested in going into that 
business.  he asked me if that many people bought yeast on slants.  I 
don't know.  You all tell him.

Cheers

Jeff
- -- 
Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net
"One never knows, do one?"  Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943


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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 20:31:36 -0500
From: Jennifer/Nathan Hall <hallzoo at comcast.net>
Subject: How Crappy Is Corona?

I've been all grain for five years now, but just recently bought my own bulk
grain and a corona mill. Runoff rates and clarity seem the same in my system
(gravity operated) as when I used to get my grain milled at the brew shop (A
Valley Mill). I'm building a RIMS and was wondering if the corona milled grain
will cause the bed to compact beyond the capacity of the standard 1/25 HP
centrifugal pump. I know someday I'll be purchasing a proper mill, but for now
all available hobby funds are going to RIMS construction. Thanks!




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Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2002 22:22:37 -0500
From: Bob Sheck <bobsheck at earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: Gluing Acrylic

Kevin McDonough asked about bonding acrylic:

There are several ways to glue acrylic plastic together. This
seems like one of the better ways- as it actually fuses acrylic
together. It should be as food-safe as the acrylic after
it dries <All volatiles have evaporated into your work-space>.

http://www.pimprig.com/sections.php?op=viewarticle&artid=71

Another site is:

http://www.tapplastics.com/plastics/plasticsinfo/adhesives.html

which describes the glue-up process.

After reading the Material Safety Datasheets, I think I would be
looking for another option for a lid. Of course you want to see all the
action going on in there, it's so exciting to watch those enzymes
doing their thang~

Bob Sheck // DEA - Down East Alers - Greenville, NC
bsheck at earthlink.net // [583.2,140.6] Apparent Rennerian
Home Brewing since 1993 //  bobsheck at earthlink.net //



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