HOMEBREW Digest #4470 Sat 07 February 2004


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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  Filtration ("melanchthon")
  Plastic and bleach (Jeremy Hansen)
  Re: McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale (Jeff Renner)
  Another Washing Motor Question (rickdude02)
  Circumcision of Dip Tubes (rickdude02)
  Re: dip tube circumcision (Jeff Renner)
  March beer recipes? (Patrick-Gabriel Clarke)
  Dip Tube Circumcision ("Steve Dale-Johnson")
  Re: Aluminum or Steel co2 Tank ("Dave and Joan King")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 08:04:18 -0500 From: "melanchthon" <rhayader at bellsouth.net> Subject: Filtration I have recently purchased a simple under-the-counter style canister filter with a 5 micron floss tube. I used it for the first time on a spruce tip beer while moving it from the secondary to the keg. My first question is concerning the degree of filtration. How much is enough? How much is too much? I think this one seems to be adequate but should I be looking to get down to 2 or 1? I'm pretty sure I'd need a lot more pressure to push the beer through a .1 or .5 and I think that would filter out too much of the "good stuff." Now the second question. I sanitized the floss tube by soaking in an iodophor solution and then draining shortly before use. To store, I shot some water through to rinse after use and keep the floss tube in a tall jar of iodophor in my beer fridge to keep any nasties out. This is how I intend to reuse the filter rather than toss it, even though they're only $3.50 each. Does this seem like adequate precaution to fight infections? By the way, at 5 microns, my CO2 cylinder and very mild pressure is enough to push the beer out of the carboys, through the filter and into the keg. I was very pleased with the simplicity and procedural workings of my "system." Chris Hart D u n g s h o v e l e r s o n ' s G a t e B r e w e r y (for some reason, the mail program rejects my brewery's name!) 1000 NW 51st Terrace Gainesville, FL 32605 (352) 339-0324 rhayader at bellsouth.net Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 08:20:34 -0600 From: Jeremy Hansen <cfjh at eiu.edu> Subject: Plastic and bleach Hi gang. I am a rank amateur, just finished with my first couple of good batches of all-grain. Previously, I had a problem with an awful chemical taste and smell. After a little research, I learned what bleach can do if used for too long to sanitize a plastic fermentor. I am fairly sure (based on my meager experience and googling skills) that this was a phenol problem. I switched to Iodophor and a new fermentor, and everything is fine. My question is whether the previous fermentor is permanently ruined, or can I start using it again without worrying about this apparent phenol problem? Jeremy Hansen Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:31:06 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale Ted Grudzinski <tgrudzin at yahoo.com> wrote >According to your recipe and yeast choice, the numbers >don't match. <snip> > >According to the numbers I calculated, (by hand)the >two liquid Irish type yeast put the FG right about >1.011. Is 1.105 [sic] Correct? I plan to make the beer >anyway, as I still judge by taste, not hydrometer, but >I was curious about your 1.015 numbers. Does the >flaked barley add unfermentables that will keep the >numbers high? It is not a science, but the relatively high mash temperature I specified should make for more unfermentables. As I wrote in the original post: >Mash 154F/68C 60 minutes for a somewhat higher FG than usual. It usually works for me. The flaked barley is more for mouthfeel and creaminess, or at least that's my story and I'm sticking to it. Jeff >Jeff, >According to your recipe and yeast choice, the numbers >don't match. > >"McGinty's Irish-American Red Ale >5.25 gallons at 1.044/ FG 1.015 >Irish Ale yeast or any ale yeast (I prefer more >flavorful yeasts than >1056)." > >According to the numbers I calculated, (by hand)the >two liquid Irish type yeast put the FG right about >1.011. Is 1.105 Correct? I plan to make the beer >anyway, as I still judge by taste, not hydrometer, but >I was curious about your 1.015 numbers. Does the >flaked barley add unfermentables that will keep the >numbers high? > >Ted > > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online. >http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:42:59 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net Subject: Another Washing Motor Question I have been very interested to see what kind of responses come back on the wiringquestion for the washing machine motor because I have one, too. And my intention is to rig it up to a grain mill as well. But my question is about gear ratios. First, do I even need to worry about it? It just seemed to me that even on the low speed, it might be too fast for the grain mill. Secondly, (and I suppose I could just work the math out myself, but it's soooooo much easier asking this panel of experts) is there a rule of thumb about speed reduction vis a vis wheel size? Thanks for all help! Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:44:35 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: rickdude02 at earthlink.net Subject: Circumcision of Dip Tubes I think this is a cruel practice and must be ended!!! Seriously, I've never cut my dip tubes because I clarify the beer in secondary, rack to the keg, and force carbonate. >From that point, the keg never moves. (Ideally it never moves, but sometimes I have to shift kegs around in the fridge...) Because I don't condition in the keg, my sediment is limited. There is some, to be sure, but after the first glass (I let the keg sit for a couple of days after force carbonating and the sediment seems to drop over that time), it runs clear for the rest of the time. Jostling *may* produce another cloudy glass, but that's it. And I like to think that I get almost every drop out of my kegs. Rick Theiner LOGIC, Inc. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:39:58 -0500 From: Jeff Renner <jeffrenner at comcast.net> Subject: Re: dip tube circumcision Steve Bruns <sdbruns at telus.net> writes from Penticton, BC (that's British Columbia in Canada for you overseas types who don't know NA geography): >I've read somewhere that one should cut about 1" off of the "out" dip >tube in a Corny to help avoid dispensing the sediment as it settles out >in the keg. Good idea or no? I've never done it. Seems like a waste of a good tube and good beer as you won't be able to empty the keg. The first pint or two is cloudy but as long as I don't disturb the keg, the rest are clean until the end. If you keg clear beer and force carbonate it, there will be very little sediment. Or, once you have pulled off the cloudy pint or two, you can rack to a clean keg. As various brewers including me have posted here before, you can fill the receiving keg with water and blow it out with CO2, completely purging it. Then rack either by siphoning with a jumper between the gas in fittings or rack with CO2 pressure. Jeff - -- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, JeffRenner at comcast.net "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 11:20:03 -0800 From: Patrick-Gabriel Clarke <hbd.to.theq at xoxy.net> Subject: March beer recipes? 1st post here after lurking and (hopefully) learning for a while. FWIW, even the way-over-my-head content is enjoyable, although sometimes the sheer amount of information/posts overwhelms a bit.. On to my question: We just saw a new (to us) bottle-conditioned offering from New Belgium Brewing in our grocery store yesterday - a "Biere De Mars" ale. From the very attractive label - "...After gazing at its cloudy, yet glowing orange hue, prepare yourself for a celestial collaboration of oats, wheat, barley malt and lemon verbena, all of which is set into orbit by unidentified flying yeast strains." So New Belgium Brewing has a sense of humor as well as tasty beer! I don't really taste the lemon verbena (this may not be a very bad thing), nor have I ever tasted the "March ale" style before - but I really like it. Seems like it might be a good session style, and I've been meaning to brew up a keg of something or other for a birthday party in March, but have been delayed by the lack of inspiration - until (perhaps) now! Does anyone have a good extract/sp. grains recipe for a March Beer they could share? Doesn't have to be a clone (at least as long as the New Belgian version is reasonably representative of the style!) Also, is this a style that might be reasonably ready in 4-6 weeks (kegged and force carbonated)? TIA! Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 13:33:53 -0800 From: "Steve Dale-Johnson" <sdalejohnson at hotmail.com> Subject: Dip Tube Circumcision Steve Bruns, who lives way up here in God's Country, is wondering whether or not his dip tube needs to be kosher. I'd suggest not. I have done this to about half of my corny kegs, and aside from leaving the better part of a pint of beer at the bottom, they don't seem to take any less time to run clear at the start. IIRC, I think it was Jeff who also mentioned to me off-list that it's better to get more of the settled yeast out of the beer at the start, so leaving it long might be better. Steve Dale-Johnson Brewing at 1918 miles, 298 degrees Rennerian Delta (Vancouver), BC, Canada. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 19:52:25 -0500 From: "Dave and Joan King" <dking3 at stny.rr.com> Subject: Re: Aluminum or Steel co2 Tank It probably depends upon what state or country you're in, but here in NY state of the good old USA, we have to get our CO2 tanks pressure tested every few years, so trading tanks is the only practical method, otherwise, you have to periodically get your tank pressure tested and certified to be safe. Trading them means you can get some rather ratty looking tanks, but they're supposed to be safe, and that's what counts. It costs me about $8 to 12 for my 10 lb tank (depending on who I go to), with care it lasts a year, and I hear it's about the same cost for a 5 lb refill & trade, so I suggest 10 lb tanks. FWIW Dave King (BIER), [396.1, 89.1] apparent Rennerian Return to table of contents
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