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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
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Contents:
  FOY-2004-Response-Rescuing Old Yeast ("Rob Moline")
  DON'T USE UREA! ("Rob Moline")
  FOY-2004-Response-Last One/Yeast Nutrient/Energizer ("Rob Moline")
  Amber malt (Randy Ricchi)
  Recycle bottles and labels ("Steve B")
  Re: Bottles and Labels (Rudi Wehmschulte)
  eBay ID Verify (aw-confirm)


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JANITORs on duty: Pat Babcock (pbabcock at hbd dot org), Jason Henning,
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 23:09:21 -0500
From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com>
Subject: FOY-2004-Response-Rescuing Old Yeast

		FOY-2004-Response-Rescuing Old Yeast

G'day Drs,
About while ago I was bottling a batch of hefeweizen and wanted to
reserve some yeast from it. My method was to rinse about 100mL thick
yeast slurry in cooled boiled water once or twice, removing as much trub
as possible, before leaving it under a 300mL layer of cooled boiled
water and storing in the fridge at 1C. The strain was White Labs Hefeweizen
(WLP300).

I didn't intend on leaving it so long, but today, about 7 months later,
I  made up a 250mL batch of ~1.035 SG wort with some Wyeast nutrient
and pitched it onto the yeast (I poured off the water first). It's in a
small plastic bottle and I am squeezing air in and shaking it to introduce
as
much O2 as possible. It's now fermented out so something is alive.

If I wanted to use this yeast, which I probably don't, what would be
your suggestions as for how to build up a healthy crop of yeast for
pitching?
I'm not yet at the plating and culturing stage, and I realize that this
would be a good method, but what else can I do?

I realize this is probably not anything you'd recommend to the public,
but I'd like to know if in desperate times that there's something you can do
to save very old yeast.
Thanks,
Stuart Grant.

Stuart,
Under your circumstances you did the right thing. You can store yeast
under water for longer period of time. But it is critical, as Dave
pointed out, that you wash your yeast thoroughly and remove all residual
sugars and that you store the yeast as cold as possible without freezing
them.
Once you decide to reuse the yeast again you should build up a starter
culture, like you did, because you will find a higher concentration of
dead cells after extended storage. But with the remaining viable cells
you should be able build a good starter if you pamper your yeast with
oxygen and nutrients (FAN, minerals)
Regards
Forbes & Tobias
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 23:26:29 -0500
From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com>
Subject: DON'T USE UREA!

			DON'T USE UREA!
Folks,
     Don't use urea as a nutrient! Sometime ago I was discussing this with
Jim McClaren of Lallemands European offices, and he advised that this will
result in the creation of compounds which are known carcinogens.
     Frankly, he stated, he couldn't understand how this practice was still
allowed in the US, as it is banned in most of the world. I believe this was
previously posted in HBD.
Cheers!
Gump
"The More I Know About Beer, The More I Realize I Need To Know More About
Beer!"
- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.783 / Virus Database: 529 - Release Date: 10/25/2004



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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2004 23:32:39 -0500
From: "Rob Moline" <jethrogump at mchsi.com>
Subject: FOY-2004-Response-Last One/Yeast Nutrient/Energizer

		FOY-2004-Response-Last One/Yeast Nutrient/Energizer 
More questions re yeast nutrient.
I know I'm always a day late and a dollar short, but I have another
yeast question that perhaps someone else can answer since FOY has ended.
I read on rec.crafts.brewing that "diammonia phosphate and urea" is a
yeast nutrient, and the post also mentioned a "yeast energizer",
speculating that it might just be vitamins.  What is the difference
between a yeast "nutrient" and an "energizer"?
Thanks.
Bill Velek

Bill,
To be honest we have never come across the term "yeast energizer". It is
probably just another name for yeast nutrient. It is most likely to be
DAP or MAP because vitamins rarely have that "energizing" effect on
yeast.
Sorry for that short reply
Forbes & Tobias

- ---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.783 / Virus Database: 529 - Release Date: 10/25/2004



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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2004 08:34:07 -0400
From: Randy Ricchi <rricchi at houghton.k12.mi.us>
Subject: Amber malt

I have no experience with amber malt and would like to use some in a
brown porter.

I was thinking of using just pale ale malt and amber malt (maybe I'd
throw a half pound of crystal in, also).
The amber malt I have is around 46L, and to get the color I want the
grist would have to be at least one third amber malt.

Would such a grist give me an overly roasty character, or just a deep
dark maltiness with some toasted character (which is what I'm looking
for)?




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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2004 08:57:29 -0400
From: "Steve B" <habenero92 at hotmail.com>
Subject: Recycle bottles and labels

If you can find DeGroen's products they have the easiest to remove labels I 
have every found.  The glue is easy to remove with just a finger nail.  
DeGroen's is out of Baltimore if that helps any.  As for attaching labels I 
have heard that milk will work quite well.  Using regular paper, a quick dip 
on the "sticky side" and then onto the bottle. I am too lazy and just use a 
permanent marker on the cap.
S



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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2004 10:45:05 -0500
From: Rudi Wehmschulte <rjwehmschulte at chemdept.chem.ou.edu>
Subject: Re: Bottles and Labels

Tony:

Try to get some bottles of German beer such as Warsteiner, Bitburger or 
some of the Bavarian wheat beers. In my experience, the labels can be 
removed by simple soaking in water for a few hours. I usually soak my 
bottles after rinsing out in a dilute bleach solution for two days. The 
labels are then floating freely in the tub. i don't know why these 
labels can be removed so easily, but I speculate that it has to do with 
the German recycling system. Used bottles are taken back and reused up 
to 50 times or so. This may have led to the use of a label adhesive 
that is easy to remove.

Rudi


Rudi Wehmschulte
Norman, OK



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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2004 3:44:04 +0300
From: <aw-confirm at ebay.com>
Subject: eBay ID Verify

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