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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  Pete's stuck fermentation (Fred L Johnson)
  Re: hopbacking (Fred L Johnson)
  Rice Hulls (Glyn Crossno)
  stuck fermentation (Mark Nesdoly)
  stuck fermentation ("Peter A. Ensminger")
  Woodstock Inn ("Craig S. Cottingham")
  BJCP Annual Report is now available (BJCP Communication Director)
  RE: Lagers made from ale malt [Sec: Unclassified] ("Williams, Rowan")
  Mash Tun Rest ("John Kennedy")


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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 06:34:43 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Pete's stuck fermentation

Pete has a "stuck" fermentation that started at 1.095 and won't go 
below 1.048. He even tried adding a small amount (4 cups) of this stuck 
wort to another yeast slurry without any more fermentation. I would 
probably conclude that this wort is simply not very fermentable, but 
before I did, I would try adding some source of other nutrients to the 
4 cups sitting on some other slurry. Perhaps there is some other growth 
limiting factor that is missing.

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA



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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 06:53:34 -0500
From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com>
Subject: Re: hopbacking

Dave asked about the hop aroma that I got from my split batch of bitter 
in which I hopbacked each half with two different hops and got 
significantly different bitterness levels in the two batches. (Dave 
says he doesn't get very good aroma from hopback additions.)

I must confess that I failed to mention that I also dry hopped each 
half of the split batch, so I can't easily comment on the aroma effect 
of the hopbacking. What makes matters more complicated is that I dry 
hopped the Goldings-hopbacked batch with 1 oz of Fuggles and dryhopped 
the Northdown-hopbacked batch with 1 oz of Northdown, both for 7 days 
in the secondary. The aroma was actually very nice in both beers, but I 
attributed the aroma in these batches primarily to the dry hopping, 
although any aroma differences would certainly be partly due to the 
hopbacking differences.

I know this muddies the water a little regarding the bitterness level 
in these beers, which is my main concern here, but I am assuming that I 
cannot attribute the large difference in bitterness to differences in 
dry hopping. I'd like to hear comments from others on the contribution 
of bitterness from dry hopping if anyone has ever split a batch, dry 
hopping only half the batch? If so, how different was the bitterness in 
those?

Fred L Johnson
Apex, North Carolina, USA



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Date: Sat, 4 Feb 2006 05:54:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Glyn Crossno <graininfuser at yahoo.com>
Subject: Rice Hulls

I used rice hulls a couple of times. I had a bad
experience with rye (I let the mash get to cool). So
for the next rye beer I packed rice hulls around the
slotted manifold. It worked great, but I think getting
and keeping the mash above 150^F was the key. When
empting out the tun the rice hulls at slots were still
white, being a rye stout this was interesting.

Re-use the dry yeast. With my brewing schedule these
days I have been using dry yeast a lot. I re-use it
all the time.

Leave the Saison where it is, warm. It is a slow yeast
anyway.

Glyn
S. Middle TN



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Date: Sat, 04 Feb 2006 11:53:30 -0700
From: Mark Nesdoly <m-nesdoly at shaw.ca>
Subject: stuck fermentation

Pete,

I can relate.  When I first started brewing, I'd always add 1/2 tsp of yeast 
nutrient to every batch.  Then I forgot for a few batches, and the beer 
still turned out great.  So I stopped using yeast nutrient altogether.

Everything was okay until I moved and happened to live close to a maltster - 
Gambrinus in Armstrong, BC (Canada).  The first couple of batches made with 
their malt, I got stuck fermentations.  And I had never had a stuck ferment 
before.  The only difference was the malt.

In desperation, I bought a lot of yeast nutrient, and the directions state 
to use 1/2 tsp per gallon.  So I added 2.5 tsp per carboy (I make 10 gallon 
batches), of course boiled in a little water.  The yeast took off like a 
scalded cat and finished where it should.  Since then, I've taken to adding 
5 tsp of nutrient to the kettle for the last 15 min of the boil.  No stuck 
fermentations since.

Boil up some nutrient and see if that doesn't help.  Of course, swirl the 
yeast back into suspension when you do.

- -- Mark 



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Date: Sun, 05 Feb 2006 02:05:00 -0500
From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com>
Subject: stuck fermentation

In the previous HBD, http://www.hbd.org/hbd/archive/4943.html#4943-10,
Pete Calinski noted the high terminal gravity (~1.048) of his
barleywine. He notes that he added 3 lbs of Laaglander dark DME in the boil.

My understanding is that Laaglander dry malt extracts are high in
dextrins, so 3 lbs was too much. You probably won't be able to ferment
to a lower gravity unless you break down the dextrins to fermentable sugars.

How to do that?

You might try to add some amylase (from a homebrew store), which can
break down large dextrins to fermentable sugars and 'limit dextrins'.
Then add some more yeast after a few days. I believe that homebrew
amylase is a mixture of alpha and beta amylase, but I'm not sure of its
source (plant? fungal? microbial?) or its temperature sensitivity.

Alternatively, you might try to add some wall-paper stripper to your
beer, and then some yeast. Wall paper stripper is high in amylase and
works well at room temperature. Of course, then you would have a true
'specialty beer' (BJCP category #23).

Cheerio!
Peter A. Ensminger
Syracuse, NY





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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 12:28:29 -0600
From: "Craig S. Cottingham" <craig.cottingham at gmail.com>
Subject: Woodstock Inn

We're planning a vacation to New England this summer, and stumbled  
across the website for the Woodstock Inn in North Woodstock, NH. It's  
a B&B style inn that allows children -- which in itself is unusual --  
and has an on-premise brewpub. Naturally, my ears perked up when my  
wife told me that. :-)

Has anyone reading been to the Woodstock Inn? Is it worth visiting,  
or are we better off looking elsewhere?

- --
Craig S. Cottingham
craig.cottingham at gmail.com
Olathe, KS ([621, 251.1] Apparent Rennerian)
OpenPGP fingerprint: 0x7977F79C



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Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2006 14:46:29 -0500
From: BJCP Communication Director <communication_director at bjcp.org>
Subject: BJCP Annual Report is now available

The BJCP Annual Report can be found on the website at
http://www.bjcp.org/annual2005.html


Ed Westemeier
BJCP Communication Director
communication_director [at] bjcp.org





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Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:52:12 +1100 
From: "Williams, Rowan" <Rowan.Williams at ag.gov.au>
Subject: RE: Lagers made from ale malt [Sec: Unclassified]

Hi Steve / A.J. - Many thanks for the quick and, as usual,  informative
reply!

Apologies for the scant info on my other grains in my original post -  I
have some melanoidin, munich and caramunich in the pantry.  I note your
comments on the different flavour characteristics, but since I'm relatively
new to brewing lagers, I'll use pale ale malt as the base and get some
practice making the pseudo lager so that when I do get a bag or two of pils
malt, I'll have had practice especially in relation to making lager yeast
starters and fermenting in the fridge.

>From what I've read, it appears to be the case that successful lagers are
made with patience (eg extended fermentation durations) and whilst there's
always an important role for temperature to play in the mash, there exists
an arguably more important role for temperature control and yeast management
during fermentation and ongoing storage / lagering....

The UK pale ale malt is 6 EBC so it shouldn't make too dark a lager when I
couple it with some Carapils and Hallertau MF pellets and a decent sized
Wyeast 2124 starter...

Cheers,
 
Rowan Williams 
Canberra Brewers Club 
[9588.6, 261.5] AR (statute miles)
 
P.S. Steve - I replied directly but my email response was bounced.  Methinks
Micro$oft's interpretation of the relevant RFC doesn't include email
addresses with your syntax! ;-)

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Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 09:46:22 +1000
From: "John Kennedy" <johnk at readybake.com.au>
Subject: Mash Tun Rest

 Hi guys,

I have been trying to find out information about a mash rest at 72C (162F),
this rest is after the 65.5C (150F)rest and conversion, it's suppose to be
good for head retention.?, I can't find any think about in the brewing
books, and I was wondering if any one knows any think about it.

Thanks in advance if you are able to help. 

Regards John Kennedy 





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