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	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org


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Contents:
  False Bottoms ("MARTIN AMMON")
  Subject: malta, (Jon Griffin)
  bazooka with herms? ("Ben Dooley")
  Darrell vaser ("Chad Stevens")
  Re: False Bottoms (Dylan Tack)
  Re: Looking for PPG for unusual Adjuncts (Dylan Tack)
  HBD Archeology (was Re: Missing HBD Issues) (Scott Alfter)
  Serial Mash for Maize (stencil)
  Beer Software: BTP Beta (Alexandre Enkerli)


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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 22:08:32 -0500
From: "MARTIN AMMON" <SURFSUPKS at KC.RR.COM>
Subject: False Bottoms

Company for material to make false bottom the one I use is McNichols co.
1-800-237-3820 I purchase 1/16 hole on 1/8 center 18 gauge.  www.mcnichols.com

Swagman




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Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2006 20:13:35 -0700
From: Jon Griffin <jon at jongriffin.com>
Subject: Subject: malta,

I have done quite a bit.
This may help.

http://jongriffin.com/beer/malta


- -- 
Jon Griffin

jongriffin.com
salsablanca.com


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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 00:36:40 -0400
From: "Ben Dooley" <bendooley at gmail.com>
Subject: bazooka with herms?

Hello all,

Wanted to thank everyone again for your help. As I build my herms,
I'll probably have lots of questions. Please bear with me.

Has anyone tried using the bazooka in a herms mashtun? I'm shopping
around for a false bottom for my sankey, and the price of the bazooka
is terribly tempting.

Best,

Ben



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Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2006 23:16:11 -0700
From: "Chad Stevens" <zuvaruvi at cox.net>
Subject: Darrell vaser

>I'm confident that good beer can be made with the >water that Darrell has.

So am I!  I've had many of his beers (one too many on occasion) and was 
delighted with them all.  Of course the company was even more delightful.

Darrell, for lighter brews (helles, pils, koelsch et. al.) I'd just dilute 
your well water with three parts RO water and give that a try.  And the 
sooner you give one of these styles a try the better; Elaine has waited long 
enough!

Good luck!

Chad Stevens
QUAFF
San Diego 



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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 09:06:23 -0500
From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com>
Subject: Re: False Bottoms

> Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 20:26:34 -0700
> From: "Keith Christian" <kchristian at surfside.net>
>
> I would like to know what is the appropriate hole size and spacing
> for a false bottom.

I have a St. Pat's false bottom that I am very happy with.  Here's the
catalog description, which should tell you enough to buy the right
materials:

> 20 Gauge 304 stainless steel, staggered 1/16" holes on 1/8" centers.
> Optimal 25% perforation as used in commercial breweries. Not 36%
> perforation as used by all other homebrew suppliers (3/32 on 5/32
> centers). This false bottom is for St. Pat's Brewpot. It is not the
> false bottom made by Polarware for their 15 gallon brewpot.

 -Dylan




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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 09:44:17 -0500
From: Dylan Tack <dylan at io.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for PPG for unusual Adjuncts

> Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 23:25:25 -0230
> From: "Jason Edwards" <jedwards2 at gmail.com>
>
> (total grain bill was
> 10 lbs 2-row, 2 lbs barley flour and 1/2 lb crystal 80)

Jason then measures a preboil gravity of 1.060 in 30 liters of wort.

It would seem the only explanation is a measurement error somewhere.
Here are the ppg yield values from
http://www.howtobrew.com/section2/chapter12-4-1.html

2-row: 37
medium crystal: 34
barley flour - Let's make the assumption this is the same as flaked
barley, which has a published value.  Both start out with raw barley,
which is then dehulled and mechanically processed.  The flakes have
been heated in the process, but that shouldn't make a big difference.
Perhaps the germ was removed from your flour, which might increase the
yield slightly, but this effect would also be minor.
Flaked barley: 32

So, your efficiency is (forgive the Fortran-ish notation )
60 / ((37*10 + 32*2 + 34*.5) / 8) = 106%.

Yikes.

Even if we assume your barley flour was pure sucrose (46 ppg), that
is still 100.2% efficiency.

So, it seems that either the weight of the grist, or the volume, or the
gravity measurement was wrong.  I would check your hydrometer first.
Here is one way:
http://www.honeycreek.us/hydrocal.htm

 -Dylan




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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 10:35:49 -0700
From: Scott Alfter <scott at alfter.us>
Subject: HBD Archeology (was Re: Missing HBD Issues)

Paul Hethmon wrote:
> Scott and Spencer asked a few days ago about some missing issues from their
> HBD archives. Well, in finally cleaning out my office closet today, I found
> a cdrom of interest:
> 
>    The Beer Homebrewing Guide August 1994
> 
> A friend had given it to me years ago and I'd not even opened the shrink
> wrap until today. Well, I found the HBD archives on it from 1989 thru 1994
> in Windows help file format. The only bad part is that the issues are
> not preserved as issues, they're in there as individual articles. I also
> can't seem to find #154 or #718. I actually found a reference for people
> looking for 718 back in 1991. Anyway, I put it up on one of my webservers:
> 
>    http://frisbee.hethmon.net/homebrew/

I took a look at the 1991 archive.  Between the posts from #717 and the posts
from #719, there was one post without a subject:

> Date: Fri, 6 Sep 91 00:11:42 -0700
> From: bgros at garnet.berkeley.edu
> 
> Someone asked about mail order grains.  I just received a
> catalog (haven't ordered yet) from The Home Brewery, based
> in Ozark, MO with distribution centers in San Bernardino, CA
> and Las Vegas.  They advertise Klages 2-row malt for 0.90/lb.
> Also, 10lbs is $7.50 and 50lbs is $32.  sounds pretty cheap
> to me.  all specialty grains are $1.50/lb or $6.50/5lbs.
> 
> to get a catalog, call 1-800-321-BREW.  Does anyone have
> any experience with these people?  Just for comparison, they
> sell most hop varieties for $1.95 per 2oz pack.  Wyeast is
> $3.75 each.  A wort chiller is $29.95
> 
> Quick question:  when priming a normal 5-gal batch with
> 
> honey, how much should i add?  and what kind of honey?
> i was considering trying it with my wheat beer.
> 
>                               - Bryan Gros

I have half a thought to wrap it in the usual HBD header/footer from the time
and call it #718.

I saw the post about the missing #718...it's the second post in #720.  #155
refers to a couple of posts from #154:

 - From: florianb%tekred.cna.tek.com at RELAY.CS.NET
  about the Reinheitsgebot (subject modified from original)
 - From: John S. Watson <watson at ames.arc.nasa.gov>
  Subject: Rheinheitsgebot [sic]

I went searching for these and came up empty.

  _/_  Scott Alfter
 / v \ Visit the SNAFU website today!
(IIGS( http://snafu.alfter.us/      Top-posting!
 \_^_/ rm -rf /bin/laden            >What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?



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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 16:39:53 -0400
From: stencil <etcs.ret at verizon.net>
Subject: Serial Mash for Maize

 - as distinguished from the parallel sort.  This winter I essayed double
decoction mashing and so far the results are pretty gratifying - good flavors
and aromas, and a yield up around 35 point-gallons per pound frrom Weyermann's
Pilsener.  But the splishing and the splashing doesn't make for soothing
mashing.  Then I thought to make a run on Jeff Renner's Classic American
technique for dealing with corn and rice and made a lager, 9# Pilsener, 3#
Quaker Quick Grits, 4oz Quaker Quick Oats, on Wyeast 2112 - call it Cream
Steam Beer.  Again the yield was good, seven gallons into the fermenter at
1060,   but again there was just too much potwrangling.  I'm in the habit of
clamping  a 3/8" electric drill to the mashtun with a whittled maple propellor
in the chuck, and letting it whir for me;  but with active heating and a dry
pull, there's just too much chance of scorching.  You don't need decoction to
make a passable helles or pils, but near as I can tell there's no substitute
boiling if you want to use corn or rice (or wheat, says Eric Warner), and
there you are, stirring and schlepping porridge when you could be sipping a
homebrew.  
	So, it occurred to me to tinker with the process.  To reduce the investment
risk I cut back on the dimensions, aiming for 5.5gal into the fermenter at
1045 - Cream Steam Lawn Machine - and to a grist of 4.5# Weyermann Pilsener,
3# Quaker Quick Grits, 4oz Quaker Quick Oats, mashed in with 10qt water for 20
min at 122F. Then I drew from the lauter tap all the liquid I could get - 6
quarts of very milky wort - and replaced it with a like volume of boiling
water.   The boiling was a mistake - it should have been 180F - and I rested
at 160F instead of the 145F I wanted.  After 20 min again applied heat and ran
it up to boiling,  where it sat stewing for 45 minutes.  By now the reserved
wort had cooled to 95F, and putting two 2-l PET botttles of ice in the tun
dropped the mash back to 165F.  I piped the wort back into the tun and struck
145F, resting 20 min.  Direct heat again to 155F, and stayed there for 45 min,
until iodine produced only browns, not grays.  No mashout, sparged with 5.5
gallons, for a yield to kettle of  8.5 gallons of 1028 wort.  It's cooling, at
SG 1047,  as I type this.
	It seems to have worked.  I'm not too worried about the extra time at
higher sacch temperatures - better, for me, too sweet than too dry - and best
of all I didn't have to spend all that time standing up cranking on a spoon.

stencil sends


[535.2mi, 86.4deg] AR


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Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 19:22:02 -0400
From: Alexandre Enkerli <enkerli at gmail.com>
Subject: Beer Software: BTP Beta

Brewers,

Beer Tools Pro is doing a public beta of their standalone recipe manager:
http://www.beertools.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=13

Alexandre (Ale-X) in Montreal
http://enkerli.wordpress.com/



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