HOMEBREW Digest #5042 Mon 07 August 2006

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  re: eisbier ("steve.alexander")
  a tasty ale (leavitdg)
  Tri Clamp pipe/2.5 gallon Corny kegs ("NS Teddy Winstead, MD, MS")
  pretzels and lye (Jeff Renner)
  What to do with a beer that has lots of fusels? ("Peter A. Ensminger")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 02:00:01 -0400 From: "steve.alexander" <-s at adelphia.net> Subject: re: eisbier Steve Dale-Johnson says ..., > ... few pointers: >1) it will not make a bad beer into a good beer. I completely agree. I once eisbock'ed a too-phenolic rye beer and the result was a really concentrated too-phenolic rye, not good. *IF* done properly it will concentrate the ethanol and the malty flavors, but also concentrates the fusels and any off flavor. The fact is that beer has a rather high fraction of dextrins, and these concentrated dextrins will eventually overwhelm the body of any eisbier/eisbock processes carried to excess. Of course we should distinguish eisbier from eisbock. For eisbier the small (~5%) reduction does not cause great concentration, but it does accomplish some of the same goals as lagering - removal of residual yeast, oxidized polyphenolics and and "polishing" of the flavors. >[...] >Easiest way to do it is to put a little less than a gallon in a clean >plastic gallon milk jug. Freeze solid and invert over a quart mason jar. >Leave the whole setup in the freezer. It will fill slowly and you can empty >the mason jar as you go. NO ! This is wrong and will not make an eisbier. Do NOT freeze solid - ever. If you do, melt and start over. The eisbier/eisbock process involves *slowly* freezing just a fraction of the water in the beer. It is the *slow* partial freezing and separation which allow you to remove mostly water and retain the rest. You want to form almost pure ice crystals. Freezing too fast creates an amorphous 'slush' which traps "good stuff" in the freeze - that is exactly what we don't want. Here is a good test of your eisb' process. Melt the removed 'ice' fraction into a glass and taste it. It should taste like water with a little yeast, phenolic flavor and only the slightest hint of any ethanol. The re-melt should be very pale to clear in color even if the beer is quite dark. If your re-melt is colored or contains other flavors then you are freezing too fast. I've accomplished decent eisbock separation by wrapping a corny keg in bubble wrap (for insulation -> slow cooling) and placing this in a not too cold freezer until ~20% is ice ... then separate & repeat. For eisbier 5% ice is closer to the mark. If you do this right, freeze slowly enough, then the ethanol content of the liquid portion depresses the freezing point enough to prevent freezing solid (or at least making it very slow indeed) and then the process is self-limiting until you drop the freezer temp. >... and oxidation does not seem to be an issue even with the open drip > method NOT my experience !! After a couple clumsy eisbock separations the oxidation aldehyde aroma is clear, concentrated, obnoxious. You should take care to avoid oxidation during the eisb' separation. I would never try the open drip separation as the amount of O2 uptake will be impressive. -S Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 07:18:23 -0400 From: leavitdg at plattsburgh.edu Subject: a tasty ale I have fallen in love with the WLP007- English Dry Ale Yeast, and just recently brewed a batch that has just been chilled and it is very good, so I thought I'd share the recipe. I called this "Bastille Ale" in that it was brewed on 7/14. 1 lb wheat 9.5 lb Golden Promise Pale .25 Caramel 120 L .25 Special Roast 2 stage infusion. 2 hour boil. .75 oz Cascade at first wort .25 oz Cascade at 60 .25 oz Amarillo at 30 .50 oz Amarillo at 15. og was 1.055 fg was 1.010 %abv is 5.8% Just thought I'd share as this tastes wonderful! Happy Brewing! Darrell Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 09:39:11 -0400 From: "NS Teddy Winstead, MD, MS" <ted at winstead.net> Subject: Tri Clamp pipe/2.5 gallon Corny kegs Tried to post this on Sat but it looks like it didn't go through. My apologies if this shows up twice. My first post since HBD #1733. Yikes! Glad the HBD is still going strong, many thanks to our janitor and sponsors. I am amazed at how inexpensive Tri Clamp fittings have become, both from retail outlets (St. Pat's in particular) and Ebay. When I started in this hobby they were sort of the unobtainable holy grail for pipe fittings. Thank the Chinese, I guess. I've been brewing with a RIMS setup for quite some time now (since about 1994). Mine is currently some 1.5 inch NPT nipples with a T at one end and an elbow at the other. I got this idea from Dion Hollenbeck, I think. The problem with this setup is that the heating element goes in the T then into the pipe nipple. I also have the wort inflow into the top of the T. This is a fairly common setup if you look at online brewery pics. The problem with this setup is that little bits of grain and some occassional scorched wort get stuck in the end of the T near the base of the element. Over time this will build up and give off flavors and maybe occasionally dump sour bits into your new beer. In fact, the problem with RIMS in general is that the heating element chamber is tough to clean out and dry out even if you recirc cleaning solution after your brew session and attempt to purge it with air or gas. I've been thinking about rebuilding the chamber out of tri-clamp/tri-clover fittings to make cleaning and disassembly less of a chore, but I cannot locate a straight piece of tri-clamp pipe. IE the T and elbow are easy to get, but I cannot find a 12" or so long piece of straight pipe with tri-clamp fittings on either end. I know I could buy two ferrules and a straight pipe section and have something welded up, but I'd have to find a welder in my area, etc., etc. Time is a premium for me, so I'd rather get one pre-made. Does anyone have a source for such a thing? While I'm posting, does anyone have a source for a used 2.5 gallon (or 2 gal or 3 gal) corny keg? I know there are new ones available, but the best price I can find is just shy of a hundred bucks which seems steep. Teddy Former fanatical homebrewer, now merely a zealot. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 11:05:14 -0400 From: Jeff Renner <jsrenner at umich.edu> Subject: pretzels and lye Brewers I am reposting this as while I was on vacation, I had access only to webmail (and that for only three days of the two weeks), and it insisted on exceeding the 80 character line length required by HBD. It took me all of this past week to wade through the 400+ emails I had upon my return. Of course, the fact that we had house guests this past week and that my elderly mother fell and broke her elbow, necessitating several doctor visits, didn't help. So here is the reposting. The last paragraph was the reason I posted. Now to catch up on the other discussion groups I try to read. Jeff "Grant Stott" <gstott at iprimus.com.au> writes from Victoria Australia > Jeff Renner if you are reading this thanks again for > posting your Pretzel recipe way back. > Cheers from the Berkshire Mts of western Massachusetts, where we are visiting friends before heading to the North Shore (north of Boston, that is, in Rockport) for a week+. Wish we were there now, as the official temperature is 97.5F/36.4C, and there is no A/C in their delightful old house. And to think that before global warming, people used to come up to the Berkshires to escape city heat! (Did you all feel a kind of lurching in the homebrew coordinates as [0,0] moved about 600 miles east?) You are most welcome for the recipe, Grant. Glad you can make it a family project. I have a CAP lagering back home that should be ready when I get back, and I think I will make pretzels as they go so well with that beer. BTW, if anyone read the recipe in Zymurgy back then, don't worry about finding food grade lye. That was a precaution taken by the editor. I just use pure lye (NaOH) in the form of Red Devil drain cleaner. A chemistry prof friend assures me that the method used to prepare NaOH (hydrolysis of NaCl) results in a pure and safe form. Cheers Jeff - --- Jeff Renner in Ann Arbor, Michigan USA, jsrenner at umich.edu "One never knows, do one?" Fats Waller, American Musician, 1904-1943 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 14:13:18 -0400 From: "Peter A. Ensminger" <ensmingr at twcny.rr.com> Subject: What to do with a beer that has lots of fusels? Greetings, I recently made a braggot (11 lbs of malt, 7 lbs of honey; OG ~ 1.107). Unfortunately, I ended up with a 5-gal keg of brew that seems to have lots of higher alcohols, possibly because of a recent heat wave. (BTW, my taste buds are BJCP-trained.) What should I do with this brew? I've got three ideas below, but would also be interested in your opinions. 1) Add a bunch of herbs and/or spices to cover up the bad taste of the higher alcohols. 2) Add charred wood staves to the keg to "soak up" the higher alcohols. The logic is that higher alcohols (which are more non-polar than ethanol) will be preferentially absorbed to the charcoal. 3) Restart the fermentation by adding more honey and yeast. The logic is that this will esterify existing fusels. See the discussion in: http://hbd.org/hbd/archive/4459.html#4459-9 and #4459-10 Cheers! Peter A. Ensminger Syracuse, NY Apparent Rennerian: [394, 79.9] Return to table of contents
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