HOMEBREW Digest #5406 Fri 29 August 2008

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  Beer color (Fred M. Scheer)
  RA ("A.J deLange")
  Pansy water and what do to about it ("Samuel Bosco")
  MALT Turkey Shoot 2008 (Jack Mowbray)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 11:38:31 +0000 From: fredscheer07 at comcast.net (Fred M. Scheer) Subject: Beer color HI All: Just wanted you to know that A.J. deLange has an extremely good article in the Journal of the ASBC (American Society of Brewing Chemists, pp 143 - 150). He discusses Beer color in very detail, based on measurement of 99 beers. Great Job A.J. Fred M. Scheer Nashville, TN http://www.mbaa.com/emergingIssues/default.htm - -- The information transmitted (including attachments) is covered by the Electronic Communications Privacy Act, 18 U.S.C. 2510-2521, is intended only for the person(s) or entity/entities to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient(s) is prohibited. If you received this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 00:08:39 -0400 From: "A.J deLange" <ajdel at cox.net> Subject: RA In the example in the article (Ca = 225, Mg = 40, Alk = 220) If these are all in ppm as CaCO3 the proper calculation is RA = 220 - (225/3.5 + 40/7) = 150 ppm as CaCO3. Now as 1 milliequivalent per liter corresponds to 50 ppm as CaCO3 one could also express this RA as 150/50 = +3 mEq/L (not -3) but the fact that the digit 3 is involved is suspicious. If the Ca and Mg numbers are "as the ion" (which is doubtless the case as the given numbers as the ion are about right for Dortmund) you would use the formula you quote from me to convert the mg/L as the ion to mEq/L in which case the calculation is RA = 220 - 50(11.25/3.5 + 3.292/7) = 35.8, about what you got. In general the RA formula is RA = Alk - ({Ca}/3.5 + {Mg}/7) where {Ca} and {Mg} can be in units of ppm as CaCO3, mg/L as the ion, grains per gallon or whatever you like but Alk must be in the same units and RA is then in those units as well. So I think you aren't doing anything wrong. I don't have the article to look at but I'm guessing it's a typo. A.J. Return to table of contents
Date: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 10:13:14 -0400 From: "Samuel Bosco" <samuel.bosco at gmail.com> Subject: Pansy water and what do to about it My house water is softened by a Culligan water softener. I know that by itself this water is generally useless for brewing. At the outset of this question I would like to request that no one replies in the vein of "remove the water softener" because that is not going to happen (I do not control the utilities of the house) and I am not ready to move out. As of now, I have been using store bought spring water, which has worked fine but I feel like it is wasteful of both money and my time. Tap water is much cheaper and much more convenient. So as I said before I realize that soft water is essential useless when it comes to brewing, Culligan water systems not only soften the water in the traditional sense of the term but the essential remove all non water components and the way mine is set up it is exchanged with sodium. I do not know the ppm of sodium in the water but I can tell you that it is below perception by taste. Soft water such as mine also has potential to be a "blank canvas" and I can tailor my brewing liquor to whatever style I wish to brew. However I am not yet familiar with brewing water chemistry and I do not know about the intricacies of amending water with salts. As I make the switch to all grain I would like to utilize the water from my tap and really understand my home brewery. My questions are: Are there any salt amendments that give the full suite of important brewing salts? Would the proper addition just Burton salts be enough to support yeast health and brew a good ale or would a cocktail of salts be required? When does one add the salts? Mash? Pre Mash? Boil? Sparge? What are some good texts that can explain this subject (be they zymurgy/byo articles or internet articles or book chapters) As experienced brewers what have you all found that works well? Thnank you, Sam Bosco Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 28 Aug 2008 08:20:37 -0500 (CDT) From: Jack Mowbray <jmowbray at verizon.net> Subject: MALT Turkey Shoot 2008 Maryland Ale and Lager Technicians (MALT) are pleased to announce their 4th Annual Turkey Shoot* Homebrew Competition. This is a BJCP-sanctioned event. In addition to quality feedback on all entries, cash prizes will be awarded for Best of Show as well as for 2nd and 3rd place overall. Ribbons and sponsored prizes will be awarded to individual category winners. The competition will be held Sunday, November 9th at Clipper City Brewing Company in Baltimore, MD. All BJCP beer categories will be accepted. The deadline for entries is November 1st. Additional information, rules, entry forms, and bottle labels may be found at the MALT website: http://www.maltclub.org As in the past, we welcome the participation of BJCP-accredited judges. Anyone who is interested in helping with the judging should contact: Mike McMahon fishandbrew at comcast.net *no live birds will be harmed during this event Return to table of contents
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