FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES Digest Janitor: pbabcock at hbd.org *************************************************************** TODAY'S HOME BREW DIGEST BROUGHT TO YOU BY: Sponsor The Home Brew Digest! Visit http://www.hbd.org/sponsorhbd.shtml to learn how Support those who support you! Visit our sponsor's site! ********** Also visit http://hbd.org/hbdsponsors.html ********* DONATE to the Home Brew Digest. Home Brew Digest, Inc. is a 501(c)3 not-for-profit organization under IRS rules (see the FAQ at http://hbd.org for details of this status). Donations can be made by check to Home Brew Digest mailed to: HBD Server Fund PO Box 871309 Canton Township, MI 48187-6309 or by paypal to address serverfund@hbd.org. DONATIONS of $250 or more will be provided with receipts. SPONSORSHIPS of any amount are considered paid advertisement, and may be deductible under IRS rules as a business expense. Please consult with your tax professional, then see http://hbd.org for available sponsorship opportunities. *************************************************************** Contents: Re: Flat Beer Update (Fred L Johnson) Re: false bottom screen (stencil) IPA Help ("D. Clark")
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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 07:34:29 -0400 From: Fred L Johnson <FLJohnson52 at nc.rr.com> Subject: Re: Flat Beer Update Tom Puskar reported to us a month ago that his beer hadn't carbonated after two weeks in the bottle, and many of us responded with tips on how to help his beer along or recommended for him to add some fresh yeast. Now Tom has reported that his beer has finally fully carbonated after six weeks in the bottle. In my opinion, Tom's experience is an example of why adding yeast to the beer at bottling time should be considered rather than depending upon whatever yeast is still in suspension. Because of Tom's report several weeks ago and because of the recent posts on this subject, I recently bottled an ESB and decided to not add any extra yeast to the bottle and to avoid dredging up yeast from cake in the bottom of the fermenter. I bottled this beer straight from the primary fermentor (glass carboy), my standard practice. The beer had undergone fermentation with Wyeast 1968 for 10 days. The batch was fined with gelatin and immediate cooling to 32 degrees F in the primary fermenter and bottled four days later, for a total of 14 days in the fermenter. At bottling, I placed the end of my racking cane only a little above the yeast cake to make sure that I was not filling from the top of the beer where yeast were undoubtedly very sparse. Each bottle was primed with a sucrose solution, capped, and inverted a few times. The bottles have been held at 75-78 degrees F for three week,s and there is only barely detectable carbonation at this time. Even if this beer finally carbonates in six weeks as was Tom's experience, I (and probably Tom) would have preferred to be able to drink our beer considerably sooner by adding yeast to the beer at the time of bottling. I hasten to also state that adding yeast at bottling is not necessary if the beer is still visibly a little hazy with yeast, but my beer is very obvious that I can bottle condition a beer very quickly if I bottle it before the beer fully clears in the fermenter, but there are many cases (like the current one) in which the bottle really needs more yeast. Fred L Johnson Apex, North Carolina, USA Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 11:01:20 -0400 From: stencil <etcs.ret at verizon.net> Subject: Re: false bottom screen On Sun, 11 Oct 2009 23:25:51 -0400, in Homebrew Digest #5614 (October 11, 2009) Ralph Link wrote: >------------------------------ > >[ ... ] Can anyone suggest a source of perforated stainless steel >that I can use for the false bottom. >Thanks in advance. >Ralph > Google [ on line metal ] and the most popular sites are: www.onlinemetals.com www.speedymetals.com www.metalsdepot.com plus many more. gds, stencil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 18:55:25 -0400 From: "D. Clark" <clark at capital.net> Subject: IPA Help Hi List, It has been a long long time since I have posted anything here, but I still read every day when there is something to read, and I enjoy the comments and occasional banter. I have been brewing for quite a few years now, and most of what I brew are wheats and an occasional pale ale. I'm not what I consider a hophead, although I very much enjoy the hop flavor but not a lot of bitterness if that makes any sense. Lately I have had a couple of IPA's (Harpoon and Arrogant Bastard) and I found that I really like them a lot and now I need to brew one to see how it comes out. Here is a listing of the grains and hops that I currently have stored away: 35 lbs wheat malt 35 lbs Pilsen Malt 100lbs Maris Otter 9 lbs Crystal (42-52 ASBC) 5 lbs Vienna 10 lbs Munich 2 oz Super Styrian 7.0 2 oz Cascade 6.3 3.5 oz Willamette 4.6 1 oz Columbus 12.2 1 oz Nugget 13.2 1 oz Cluster 7.7 1 oz Saaz 3.3 1/2 oz Amarillo 8.3 12 -16 oz homegrown Willamette 8 oz homegrown Cascade 2-3 lbs homegrown Nugget I need a recipe for a decent IPA hopefully using what I have on hand, but I'm not far away from my local HB shop and they have a pretty good store of hops and grains. Anybody willing to share a favorite recipe? Thanks gang Dave Clark Eagle Bridge, New York Return to table of contents
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