HOMEBREW Digest #566 Wed 16 January 1991

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		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Homebrew Postings (Drew Lawson)
  less sparge water than is orthodox (R. Bradley)
  Questions (MC2331S)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #565 (January 14, 1991) (Victor Escobedo)
  Primary fermenter options (Bill Thacker)
  Chilled Yeast (Martin A. Lodahl)
  Re: Low OG question (Mike Meyer)
  Re: Bottle rinsing (DRYFO001)
  Specific Gravity Measurement Errors (STEVE FAIRFAX)
  Mead + bees (James Hensley)
  Any Grain Growers out there? (Ultra Network Technologies)
  yeast vs. yeast (Russ Gelinas)
  Re: Yard Glass usage/etiquette (Dan Needham)
  Looking for ale yards (neils)
  Same 'ol things (Mitchell M. Evans)
  Recipe: Scotch Ale (Todd Enders - WD0BCI )
  Extract Barleywine recipie (Nick Thomas)
  Barleywine recipes (CONDOF)
  Barley (John S. Watson - FSC)
  Another New Hampshire Homebrew Club initiative ("Gary Mason - Image ABU - 603-884[DTN264]1503  15-Jan-1991 2048")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 07:28:01 -0500 From: dlawson at grebyn.com (Drew Lawson) Subject: Homebrew Postings Boy, did I mess up that last attempted posting! The beginning (which disappeared somewhere) was that the 'homebrew' related poisonings in the mid-east were from an attempt at a holiday punch containing windshield wiper fluid. The staff from the hospital ship is from the DC area, so we get coverage of their events on the local news. +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ | If you aren't part of the solution, | Drew Lawson | | you are part of the precipitate. | dlawson at grebyn.com | +-------------------------------------------------------------------------+ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 09:47:40 CST From: bradley at dehn.math.nwu.edu (R. Bradley) Subject: less sparge water than is orthodox In HBD #565, Todd Enders shares some thoughts about sources of low extract: > 3. Not sparging enough water. For a five > gallon batch and a relatively thick mash > (1.3 - 1.5 qt/lb), You should have to sparge > around 5-5.5 gal. If you are sparging so > as to collect total runnoff of 5 gal., > you're probably throwing extract away. I disagree. Perhaps it's my lauternig system, but I don't use nearly this much water, and my extract rate is very good: 5.5 gal at 1050 from 8 lb. of UK 2-row in my latest batch. Other recent batches have had similar rates of extraction. This works out to be about 34 points/lb., but then UK malt has a higher pro- portion of starch than US. (Btw, the pros don't necessarily use this pts./lb. system. It involves the erroneous assumption that the proportion of solids in the wort is a linear function of SG. Not true, but an acceptable assumption within, say, the range of 1030-1060 into which almost all of our brews, other than barley wines, fall. English and Canadian brewermasters, at any rate, seem to use percent wt./wt. of extract - see my posting of last September.) I use a Bruheat bucket for my mash, and sparge in the same container. The grain (ground fairly fine) lives in a bag with a mesh bottom and impermeable sides. During the sparge I hoist it up so that the bottom of the bag is 4 inches above the bottom of the bucket. There's a spigot about an inch above the bottom of the bucket. Because gunk collects at the bottom of the bucket during the mash, I drain _all_ of the first runnings out and pass them back through. There's about 2 gallons of them. Then I run 2.5 gallons of water at 77C through. Total collected: 4.5 gallons. No doubt I'm leaving a little behind, but at 34 pts./lb., how much can be left? PS: despite my mania for the metric system, all of theses figures are US gals. Hoppy sparging, Rob (bradley at math.nwu.edu) Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 10:08 CDT From: MC2331S at ACAD.DRAKE.EDU Subject: Questions This is my first time actually posting a message (been reading them for a while, though). First: What is the difference between hard cider and apple wine? We made a batch using Red Star Champangne yeast, so is it wine or cider? Second: Does a nation-wide list of brewpubs exist? Mark Castleman MC2331S at ACAD.DRAKE.EDU Stumblin' through the parking lot of that invisible 7-11 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 8:51:55 PST From: Victor Escobedo <victor at sdd.hp.com> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #565 (January 14, 1991) Please cancel me from the distribution list. thanks for your help. victor escobedo hp.sdd Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 12:02:06 EST From: Bill Thacker <hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!cbema!wbt> Subject: Primary fermenter options Okay, I finally got out, bought a beermaking kit, and my brewpartner and I started our first batch (a bitter ale, using two cans of Cooper's hopped bitter extract). We had a few problems, the most notable of which is that his new stove, which has the new-fangled embedded burners (i.e., you don't see a metal coil, you see a solid cast-iron plate) wouldn't get hot enough to boil 3 gallons of wort; but we got around that eventually, and boiled our wort. If you're considering a new cooktop, watch out for this! Things seem to be going fine, so I've a few questions I'd like to ask. First, on primaries. Our kit came with a plastic bucket primary, but Papazian suggests using a glass carboy. His logic (allowing the tannins and other vernicious nasties to blow out the top) makes good sense, and it strikes me as odd that this wouldn't be universally suggested. The obvious question is "is there a good reason to use a plastic bucket for the primary ?" Second, on small batches. It seems to me that brewing small batches could be a handy way to check out wierd brews or minor variations of a single recipe. Does anyone out there do this ? Third, on the law. Papazian, I think, says that homebrew cannot be legally removed from the premises except for a beer-tasting event. Can anyone comment on federal and/or Ohio laws regulating homebrewing of beer ? - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Bill Thacker AT&T Network Systems - Columbus wbt at cbnews.att.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 8:53:11 PST From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM> Subject: Chilled Yeast In HOMEBREW Digest #565, Duane Smith discussed his frozen brew: Several weeks ago we had several days of below freezing temperatures and some of my homebrew, bottled only a week, froze in my refridgerator which was in my garage ... I've tasted the beer and it tastes okay but is poorly carbonated, I mean POORLY. The beer is now aged 4 weeks in the bottle and little to no carbonation. Did the yeast get killed? Is there any way to recarbonate the beer ? Anything else I can Do? Wow. It caught you at the worst possible time. I had something similar happen last year, where a blizzard left my beer & I stranded without heat for several sub-freezing days, but as it was still in the fermentor, I just dosed it with fresh yeast & bottled, after it thawed. The fact that you're not getting any carbonation suggests that the yeast has gone dormant, and probably flocculated out. It may or may not return from the dormancy. If I were in your position, what I'd probably do is: 1) Slowly bring the beer up to room temperature. After a couple of days of that, invert each bottle several times to rouse the yeast. Leave it for another week, then open a bottle to see if anything's happening. If not, ... 2) Open 'em all, and gently decant to a sanitized vessel. Pitch new yeast, and rebottle. Needless to say, the second course is a last resort. Unless it were pretty damn good beer, I'd probably save it for the slugs before I'd go to that much trouble. That must have been the same freeze that destroyed my water system and wort chiller. No fun at all. = Martin A. Lodahl Pac*Bell Minicomputer Operations Support Staff = = malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM Sacramento, CA 916.972.4821 = = If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, = = Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me! 8-) = Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 09:39:26 PST From: meyer at tcville.hac.com (Mike Meyer) Subject: Re: Low OG question In HBD #565, Randy Pals asks about a batch of porter he is fermenting with a blow-off on the primary. He is getting lower-than-expected OG, and wants to know: >Is it possible that >I didn't "stir" the carboy enough after putting the wort in and >filling with water, i.e. could the liquid have been dense at the bottom >and less so at the top where I sampled? I've had this same problem with measuring OG when using a closed primary. There seems to be a lot of stratification between the cold water you put in the primary to prevent thermal shock, and the hot or warm wort, and it is very difficult to mix the layers once you are in the carboy, as you can't fit a spoon in to stir, and there isn't enough headroom to effectively shake. For this reason, I've stopped using the blow-off altogether, mainly because I have yet to discern even the slightest difference in final beer quality anyway. One note: I haven't tried this since my brewing partner bought a wort chiller, which I suspect would solve the problem handily. Curiously, I have had no oxidation problems in the beers I did with a closed fermentation, and I didn't siphon the hot wort into the carboy. My suggestions to you, Randy are to 1) Don't worry. Your suspicion is correct about the densities not being mixed properly. 2) Try cooling your wort more before adding to the carboy. 3) It looks like you added the wort first, and topped off with water. Try putting in water first, adding some wort, mixing thoroughly, adding more water and wort, mixing again, etc. Better yet, mix some of the wort and water before adding to the carboy. 4) Have a vigorous yeast starter ready (at least 2 packets of dry yeast pre-started for at least a few hours in some wort). You will be exposing your wort to a lot of air by doing all of this mixing and shaking, so you want a quick start on fermentation. Hope this helps, Mike Meyer meyer at tcville.HAC.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 11:19 EDT From: DRYFO001%DUKEMC.BITNET at ncsuvm.ncsu.edu Subject: Re: Bottle rinsing Received: and processed by DEMPO version 4.6 To: DEMPO!INTERNET::HOMEBREW%HPFCMR at HPLABS.HPL.HP.COM From: DRYFO001 "DRYFOOS, JAMES D " Received by DEMPO: Mon Jan 14 11:17:50 1991 From: MEDINF::JIM "James D. Dryfoos" 19 91 11:15:12.99 To: DEMPO!INTERNET::HOMEBREW%HPFCMR at HPLABS.HPL.HP.COM CC: Subj: RE: Bottle rinsing - ----------------------------------------------------------------- >Date: Thu, 10 Jan 91 19:30:00 PST >From: polstra!norm at uunet.UU.NET (Norm Hardy) >Subject: Rinsing Bottles > >Not yet owning a dishwasher, my method for cleaning bottles has stabalized >into the following steps: > >(1) Rinse real good after using, drain upside-down. >(2) Since our present sink (until the wife puts in the smaller one to > make room for the dishwasher) is large enough for 52 bottles (12 oz) > or 40 bottles (17 oz), I soak the bottles in a bleach bath (2% or so) > for a couple of hours. This removes the layers of film that accumulate. >(3) Upon rinsing with the bottle jet sprayer and hanging on a bottle tree, > I usually go the extra mile and bake the bottles at 300f for 60 minutes. > Cool down takes awhile so I usually do the baking late at night or > early in the day. Very few broken bottles, by the way. > >Oh, I remove all labels and foil before any of this. A large 10 gallon >plastic bucket outside does the job holding the liquid and bottles. > >Norm Hardy Hi. My name is James Dryfoos and I live in Durham North Carolina. I joined to list recently and up to now have just observerd. From the content of the digest I feel like a beginner -- although I have made simple homebrew for several years. I am curious about feedback on the above topic of rinsing bottles. I find this the worst part of the whole process. I normally clean gunk out of bottles right away so later all I need is really to sterilize. I use the above method of soaking in a bleach solution. This and the process of then rinsing is a drag (I also use a bottle washer). Are there better ways? Is baking the bottles necessary? I have not heard this before. I feel like since I use bleach I need to painstakingly rinse the bottles. Is something like bbrite a better alternative? Any advice would help. What about this bottle tree thing? I usually just shake out the bottle. It is usually still wet when I fill it with my primo brew. Oh yea, is using a dishwasher sufficient? What should be used as detergent if so? Thanks. Jim Dryfoos :-) *=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=* * James Dryfoos -- Medical Informatics - Duke University Medical Center * * * * VMS Systems Programmer -- P*stmaster - Duke Electronic Medical Post Office * * DRYFO001 at DUKEMC.BITNET -- Personal BITnet Address * * DRYFO001 at DUKEMC.MC.DUKE.EDU -- Personal INTERnet Address * * DMPM at DUKEMC.BITNET -- Duke Medical P*stmaster BITnet address * * DMPM at DUKEMC.MC.DUKE.EDU - Duke Medical P*stmaster INTERnet address * * MEDINF::JIM or 3073::JIM -- Concert Net DECnet Address * * Box 2914 D.U.M.C. Durham, NC 27710 USA, EARTH--(919) 684-6421/fax 684-8675 * * * * My PLAN is to get through this day!!!!!! * *=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=*=* Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 13:40 EST From: STEVE FAIRFAX <FAIRFAX at ALCVAX.PFC.MIT.EDU> Subject: Specific Gravity Measurement Errors A comment to those people concerned about low extraction efficiencies: As an extract-adjunct brewer, I don't usually have to concern myself with good sparging technique and the like. Recently I brewed my first attempt at a barleywine and learned a lesson about the measurement of specific gravity. I formulated a recipe that should have given an initial gravity of about 1.080. Just before pitching the yeast I siphoned a sample and measure a gravity of only 1.060! I took some more samples with the same result, and double-checked my calculations. I pitched the yeast and puzzled about it for a few days. I spoke with Jeff Casey about my experience and he suggested that there might be a density gradient in the wort, with heavier readings at the bottom. I went home and took samples from the top and bottom of the fermentation vessel. The readings differed by more than 20 points. The average was less than 1.040, so there is indeed a significant gradient. (My initial samples were taken from near the center of the primary, after a settling and cooling period of 2 hours.) The gradient effect is almost certainly more pronounced in a high-gravity wort like barleywine, but it is clearly a factor even in dilute liquor if one wants to make measurements with an accuracy of 2 or 3 points. A good stirring prior to sampling will reduce the gradient error. I will now take my initial samples immediate after aerating the wort. Between temperature corrections, density gradients, errors in the calibration of the instrument, and errors in reading the instrument, I suspect that it is difficult to measure specific gravity with an absolute accuracy of better than plus or minus 2 or 3 points. Relative measurements (such as the difference between starting and finishing gravities) will be more accurate, but I wouldn't be concerned about differences of 5 points when comparing with someone else's results. Steve Fairfax Fairfax at Alcvax.PFC.MIT.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 10:55:31 -0800 From: jpaul at lccsd.sd.locus.com (James Hensley) Subject: Mead + bees Just brewed my first batch of mead (Barkshack gingermead) yesterday (Sun.), and racked and pitched this morning. Beautifully clear and sparkling. Something happened, however that struck me as rather odd. While I was boiling the honey, my house was attacked by bees! Found several in my garage, got them out, closed it up, went inside, and found several more there! Had to do 'em in. They were coming in the vent for the fan above the stove. Turned on the fan and had no more problems. This really struck me as odd that the bees would be so attracted to the smell of boiling honey. Used six pounds of Cucamonga and about four pounds of homemade. Oh well, learn something every batch, I guess. Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 15:23:56 CST From: ultra1 at poplar.cray.com (Ultra Network Technologies) Subject: Any Grain Growers out there? So with all this talk about growing hops, I was wondering if anyone out there has tried to grow and use there own grain? I started the hop thing last year and I was highly pleased with the results. This spring I hope to extend my scratch brewing urges by growing enough grain for a single batch. I have somewhat successfully malted barley but I believe that I started with a bad choice of barley for beer. Everything generally worked but the taste was a lot stronger then I had hoped. Unfortunately I will be using barley seed from the same source and I fear that I might get similar results should I actually succeed in having it grow. So.... Has anybody tried this successfully? Does anybody have any ideas on what I might do to reduce errors? Finally, does anybody know of a better source for barley then my source (local feed store supplys me now - the barley is actually meant for birds and livestock to eat). Thanks for any help. - -- Jeff Miller ultra1 at cray.com (612) 333-7838 Ultra Office Ultra Network Technologies jmiller at ultra.com Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 1991 16:41:19 EST From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas) Subject: yeast vs. yeast I cultured some yeast (Wyeast German Ale) from an early batch. The culturing seemed to go well, nice krausen, etc. (LOTS of yeast nutrient seemed to be the trick). Anyway, I pitched this into a fresh batch and waited. Nothing. After 24 hours I pitched in some dry yeast, which caught within 6 hours and is doing just fine. So, what happened to the first batch of yeast? The only thing I can think of is that I shocked it (I spaced out and tossed it in when the wort was about 60 degF. The yeast was sitting at closer to 70 degF). If there's still some of the original yeast alive, what happens to those creatures when another strain starts up? Does the first strain get killed off, or can they both keep going? The reason I'm wondering is that the ferment is taking longer than what usually happens with this (more or less) standard batch. Russ Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 16:36:34 pst From: Dan Needham <dann at hpsadlb.hp.com> Subject: Re: Yard Glass usage/etiquette Full-Name: Dan Needham The yard-long glasses that I have used had a long tapered part and a round reservoir at the bottom. While drinking you must rotate the glass around its major axis when you get to the fluid in the bulbous reservoir or the beer in the bulb will come rushing into your face. You essentially use centrifugal force to overcome gravity. This prevents the contents of the reservoir emptying at once after air starts entering the bulb. Be aware that these glasses hold about three beers! Return to table of contents
Date: Mon Jan 14 13:22:28 1991 From: microsoft!neils at uunet.UU.NET Subject: Looking for ale yards Does anyone know of a good source of ale yards? I saw them once in a bar and they looked pretty cool. neil Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 18:37:05 PST From: doc at brewing.cts.com (Mitchell M. Evans) Subject: Same 'ol things Howdy again! After messing with losing my account at the end of another school year, I set up my own news and email feed at my house. I'll never miss another HBD! ;) I have a request for information from a few other folks on a local Homebrew Echo out here in San Diego on Fidonet. If any *KIND* soul out there could email me some mail order houses that are *RELIABLE* and have good merchandise, I would be eternally grateful. Those of you in the San Diego area who attend the QUAFF meetings... I have a nice Oatmeal Stout that may be ready for the meeting on Wednesday. For those of you who aren't...has anyone considered a "beer exchange" via the net? It costs a few bucks to send a beer across the globe. I wouldn't mind trading with someone...might lend a bit of excitement to the trip to the 'ol mailbox. "Look Honey! It's not a VISA BILL...it's a bottle of homebrew!" ;) ;) ;) Mitch =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= = PATH: ...!crash!brewing!doc US MAIL: Mitchell M. Evans = = 12373 Calle Albara #5 = = EL Cajon, CA 92019 = = Relax! Have a homebrew! -- C. Pappazian = =-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 14 Jan 91 21:42:51 -0600 From: Todd Enders - WD0BCI <enders at plains.NoDak.edu> Subject: Recipe: Scotch Ale This is the first try at formulating my own recipe. It turned out quite nice, malty with just a touch of hops. If you want a change from highly hopped brews, but still want something substantial, you might want to try this. But be forewarned, you may not be able to drink just one! :-) My Own Scotch Ale (5 US gal.) 6# Klages 2-row Malt 1# Munich Malt (10L) 1# Dextrine (Cara-pils) malt 8oz. Crystal Malt (80L) 4oz. Black Patent Malt 1C Dark Molasses .75oz. 6.2% alpha East Kent Goldings Wyeast #1028 London Ale yeast 2/3C Corn sugar (priming) Mash in: 2 gal. water at 138F Mash pH: 5.2 (adjust with Calcium Carbonate) Protein rest: 30 mins at 131F Conversion rest: 30 mins at 158F Mash out: 5 mins at 168F Sparge: 5 gal. water at 165F Boil: 90 mins Hops: 1 addition, 30 mins from end of boil OG: 1.055 FG: 1.015 Pitched 12/24/90. Racked to secondary: 12/26/90. Bottled 12/31/90. This has to be one of the smoothest batches I ever brewed. It is really smooth even after only 2 weeks in the bottle. The rather intense malt flavor and low hopping rate make this a refreshing change of pace from my steady production of IPA's. =============================================================================== Todd Enders - WD0BCI ARPA: enders at plains.nodak.edu Computer Center UUCP: ...!uunet!plains!enders Minot State University or: ...!hplabs!hp-lsd!plains!enders Minot, ND 58701 Bitnet: enders at plains "The present would be full of all possible futures, if the past had not already projected a pattern upon it" - Andre' Gide =============================================================================== Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 91 09:46:17 PST From: nt at Eng.Sun.COM (Nick Thomas) Subject: Extract Barleywine recipie I heard a call for extract-based barleywine. I made a batch of this about a year ago. It was so good that I've got two batches of it running in tandem. I'm really pleased with it, it's got a nice balanced flavor. Boil for 1 hour: 12 lb Fermentatin Settlement bulk light malt extract .5 lb honey 1 lb British Dry light malt extract 1.5 lb corn sugar 2 oz Chinook hops (13.2% alpha) 2 oz Cascade hops (5.5% alpha) In last 30 minutes add 2 t Irish moss Boil for another 30 minutes: 2 oz fuggles 2 t sparkeloid Pitch *Champagne* yeast when cool. I bottled after 7 months and it was *wonderful.* -nick Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 91 15:47 PST From: <CONDOF%CLARGRAD.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: Barleywine recipes Max Newman writes: >I am looking for extract based barley wine ale recipes. Does >anyone out there have a recipe that they would be willing to >share? maxn at intermec.com Byron Burch's recipe from "Brewing Quality Beers": For 5 gals.: 8 # light DME 3 # crystal malt 1.5 # Munich malt 1.5 oz. chocolate malt 8 oz. 100% dextrin powder 2 oz. Eroica (boiling hops) (22 AAU) 3 oz. Cascade (dry hop) Charlie Papazian's recipe (from TCJOHB tables): for 5 gals.: 8 to 10 # light DME 1 # crystal malt 3 to 4 oz. Fuggles (boiling hops) (15 to 20 AAU) 0.5 oz. Fuggles (dry hop) My current attempt: For *>>> 2 <<<* gallons: 5 # Alexander's pale malt extract syrup (=0.5 gal. of the stuff) 1 # crystal malt, steeped and twice sparged 11 AAU Nugget hops (boiling) 0.5 oz. Cluster (finishing hops) 0.5 oz. Cluster (dry hop) === Fred Condo. Pro-Humanist BBS: 818/339-4704, 300/1200/2400 bps Internet: fredc at pro-humanist.cts.com Bitnet: condof at clargrad UUCP: crash!pro-humanist!fredc [add ' at nosc.mil' for ARPA] matter: PO Box 2843, Covina, CA 91722 America Online: FredJC Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 91 16:13:37 -0800 From: John S. Watson - FSC <watson at pioneer.arc.nasa.gov> Subject: Barley My parents have about 40 acres of walnuts, and this year they planted barley between the trees as somekind of soil improvement/fertilizing thing. At some point in time they will plow it under. My thought was, if the barley plants were to produce, and I were to harvest it ... is there anything I could use it for in my homebrewing? I figure malting it might be to difficult, but maybe I could roast it. Any other ideas? John S. Watson, Civil Servant from Hell ARPA: watson at ames.arc.nasa.gov UUCP: ...!ames!watson Homebrew Naked! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 15 Jan 91 18:31:07 PST From: "Gary Mason - Image ABU - 603-884[DTN264]1503 15-Jan-1991 2048" <mason at habs11.enet.dec.com> Subject: Another New Hampshire Homebrew Club initiative Hi - Here is another initiative to start a Homebrew Club in NH. Anyone within striking distance is welcome to apply. Please send the attached form to John at the enclosed address. John started with the Zymurgy distribution list for NH. He doesn't have net access, so I am posting this for him. Thanks, and sorry for the bandwidth if you are too far away to care. Cheers...Gary - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ATTENTION HOMEBREWERS! The winter issue of Zymurgy magazine features a brief article concerning the 1991 A.H.A. Convention to be held in Manchester, N.H. Shouldn't our state be represented by at least one homebrew club? If you are willing to spare just a few hours each month, we can make this happen. I know that this can be a sacrifice, after all in a few hours you could make or bottle a batch of your finest homebrew! Anyone that is interested is invited to an open "Brew" house. It will be held on Saturday, February 16, 1991. It will be held from 1:00 to 5:00 p.m. (In case of a snowstorm, it will be held on Sunday, February 17, 1991. Call if there is any doubt.) Please bring along a few of your favorite beers, and start thinking about an appropriate club name. Please find enclosed an information/response sheet for you to fill out and return A.S.A.P. If you need extra copies to hand out to homebrewers that you know that do not subscribe to Zymurgy, feel free to photocopy what you need! I know that some of you may have to come from far away, but please make every effort to come --- or at least respond. Let's try to make this a terrific homebrew club --- something that we can all share and enjoy as well as be proud of. Thank you for your time. John P. Welch - -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- (PLEASE PRINT OR TYPE) NAME:_______________________________________________________________________ ADDRESS:____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ TOWN:_____________________________________________ ZIP:____________ PHONE NO.________________________ (OPTIONAL) OCCUPATION:________________________ EMPLOYER:______________________________ NUMBER OF YEARS BREWING:__________ PREFERRED BEER STYLE:_____________ TYPE OF BREWING: MASH_________ MASH/EXTRACT_________ EXTRACT ONLY _________ HOW OFTEN SHOULD MEETINGS BE HELD?__________________________________________ HOW MUCH SHOULD DUES BE?____________________________________________________ CAN YOU HOST A MEETING IN YOUR HOME?________________________________________ DO YOU HAVE A SUGGESTION FOR A CLUB NAME?___________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________________ YES, I AM INTERESTED IN STARTING A HOMEBREW CLUB - AND WILL ATTEND!_________ YES, I AM INTERESTED IN STARTING A HOMEBREW CLUB - AND WILL NOT ATTEND!_____ NO, I AM NOT INTERESTED IN STARTING A HOMEBREW CLUB!________________________ PLEASE RETURN THIS FORM AS SOON AS POSSIBLE TO: JOHN P. WELCH 418 NADINE RD. PEMBROKE, N.H. 03275 ATTENTION:HC2 (TEL.NO. 485-8381) - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DIRECTIONS Pembroke is located on Route 3. (From the South) Go North for 11.1 mi. from the intersection of Rt. 3/28 and 93 or 9.4 mi. from the intersection of Rt. 3/28 and 28A or 8.6 mi. from the intersection of Rt. 3/28 and 28B or 2.8 mi. from the intersection of Rt. 3 and 28 or .5 mi. from Kimball's Country Store located on Rt. 3, on the right. Take this left, Donna Drive. Go to the bottom of Donna Drive. It ends and intersects Nadine Road. Turn Right. It is the second house on the left. There is a mailbox directly in front of the house with my name and address on it. (From the North) Go South for 3.9 mi. from the intersection of Rt. 3 and 93 or 1.5 mi. from the intersection of Rt. 3 and 106 or .5 mi. from the Plasauwa Country Club (sign) located on Rt. 3, on the right. Take this right, Donna Drive. Turn Right. It is the second house on the left. There is a mailbox directly in front of the house with my name and address on it. If you get lost, the telephone number is 485-8381. Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #566, 01/16/91 ************************************* -------
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