---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Ancient brew needs help (Ken Schriner)
  micro in MO, Boulevard Brewing Company (Ken Schriner)
  Beer for the Slugs (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Re: bottle washing (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
  Homebrew Digest #566 (January 16, 1991) (Wayne Allen)
  baking bottles (Pete Soper)
  re: Mead + bees (Dick Dunn)
  Re:  Primary fermenter options (John DeCarlo)
  Re: Bottle rinsing (John DeCarlo)
  Home Brewing on Other Networks (John DeCarlo)
  Unsubscribe me please (Denis Anthony)
  Bottle Rinsing (Mike Zentner)
  Bottle Rinsing, Quite Yeast ("Justin A. Aborn")
  feed barley (kevin vang)
  re: Underaged beer at brewpubs (Chris Shenton)
  brew on planes, bacteria infections (durbin)
  Layered Beer (bob)
  The Wholesale Homebrew Club (S94TAYLO)


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[Please do not send me requests for back issues]
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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date:         Wed, 16 Jan 91 07:34:50 CST
From: Ken Schriner <KS06054 at UAFSYSB.UARK.EDU>
Subject:      Ancient brew needs help

The easiest remedy to a flat beer in the keg:  Boost the CO2 pressure for
several days, thereby forcing the beer to carbonate.  Normally, after I
keg a beer (any beer), I raise the CO2 pressure to about 20 lbs for one
week.  Then I lower the pressure to serving level.  I usually lower the
pressure by turning down the regulator and removing homebrew from the keg.
(A nasty job, but someone has to do it :-)  )

For my setup, serving pressure is about 8 lbs.  Of course,
everyone's serving pressure will vary depending on liquid tube size,
lenth of liquid tube, height difference between keg and tap, temperature,
beer type, head size preference, etc.

Using CO2 from the bottle for carbonation instead of priming when kegging
is the easiest way I have found to carbonate beer.  It is also the most
repeatable for me (probably because its the easiest.)

Ken Schriner                           BITNET : ks06054 at uafsysb
220 ADSB, Computing Services         Internet : ks06054 at uafsysb.uark.edu
U of A, Fayetteville, AR   72701                (501) 575-2905

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Date:         Wed, 16 Jan 91 07:46:55 CST
From: Ken Schriner <KS06054 at UAFSYSB.UARK.EDU>
Subject:      micro in MO, Boulevard Brewing Company

I had the pleasure of touring the facilities at Boulevard Brewing Company
over Christmas 1989.  I gleaned the follwing from the tour.

               Boulevard Brewing Company
               PO Box 414881
               2501 Southwest Blvd.
               Kansas City, MO   64108
               (816) 474-7095

The Brewmaster is John McDonald.  John has spent much time in Europe
researching beers and brewing.  He has done a fair amount of apprentice
brewing there also.  His intention is to bring back the type of traditional
style beers brewed in KC before Prohibition.  At the time he produced only
Boulevard Pale Ale, but had plans to produce a Wheat Ale and Bull-E-Porter
during 1990.

Boulevard Pale Ale is a medium bodied, light amber colored ale.  The fresh
flavor characteristics are produced from blending two-row pale malt with a
small amount of roasted carmel malt to give it its rich color.  The sweetness
of the malt blend is nicely balanced with a Cluster hop used for bittering
and Cascade hops used for aromatic qualities.

At the time they were capable of producing 2,000 bbl per year.  They only had
a kegging line and ale was available in 1/2 and 1/4 bbl kegs.  I drank it
first at a Mexican restaurant named Ponads or Ponachs or something like that.
The restuarant was also located on Southwest Blvd (The Boulevard to Kansas
Citians.)  At the time, Pale Ale was not available in bottles.

The Brewery is a 12,000 square foot warehouse on the Boulevard.  Equipment
at the brewery includes a 35 bbl, 50 year old copper brew kettle imported
from a family brewery in Germany.  New stainless steel fermenting tanks
were fabricated in Missouri.

John McDonald was a most gracious host for our tour.  They have a tasting
room very nicely done in oak.  Windows overlook the brewery floor.  We were
treated to as much Pale Ale as I could handle.  I got to steam up my glasses
over a mass of Pale Ale wort in copper brew kettle.  Even got to stir the wort
and bung a keg.  Great fun.

By the way, they have great t-shirts.

Ken Schriner                           BITNET : ks06054 at uafsysb
220 ADSB, Computing Services         Internet : ks06054 at uafsysb.uark.edu
U of A, Fayetteville, AR   72701                (501) 575-2905

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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 91 10:35:11 mst
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Beer for the Slugs

I'd like to suggest an alternative use for undrinkable beer.  I like
to try obscure beers that my local liquor store gets occasionally,
but some of them have been real losers.  I also use this method of
diposal for bottles of Old Style Light and Falstaff that appear in
my refridgerator during parties.  I boil bratwurst in them!  A little
malt flavor, a little hop flavor... not bad.  Also, I certainly don't
like bratwurst enough to sacrifice a Liberty Ale or Twickenham Bitter
(mine).
Al.


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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 91 10:35:24 mst
From: hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!ihlpl!korz (Algis R Korzonas +1 708 979 8583)
Subject: Re: bottle washing

Jim Dryfoos writes:
>I normally clean gunk out of bottles right away so later all I need is really
>to sterilize.

This is the most important thing you can do to make bottling easier.

>Is baking the bottles necessary?

No.

>I feel like since I use bleach I need to painstakingly
>rinse the bottles.

When I used to bottle, I used to soak in bleach solution (1 or 2 tblspns
per gallon of water) and then run hot tap water (160F) through the
bottle via my Jet Bottle Washer for about 10 seconds.  Some brewers
don't even rinse out the bleach solution.

>What about this bottle tree thing?

A bottle tree is like an artificial X-mas tree without the needles.

>Oh yea, is using a dishwasher sufficient?

Some have a "sanitize" cycle -- I've never used one but some brewers
say it works.  Cleaning out the bottles immediately after use is very
important if you use a dishwasher.  One brewer had posted an article
where he put some flower or something in a few test bottles to see
if the dishwasher really cleaned them.  I don't recall his results,
but every dishwasher is different, so you would have to try the test
yourself anyway.

>What should be used as detergent if so?

DON'T use detergent.  A soap film of any kind will kill your head
(well, your beer's head anyway).  In fact, when I go to bars, I
insist they reuse my glass so that the first beer washes most of the
soap film out and the rest of the beers have a much more stable head.

As I've already said, I no longer bottle -- I've found that kegging,
in the long run, is about half the effort (partly from the lack of bottle
washing effort and partly from not needing to decant the beer anymore).

Al.


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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 91 16:15:53 CST
From: wa%cadillac.cad.mcc.com at MCC.COM (Wayne Allen)
Subject: Homebrew Digest #566 (January 16, 1991)

  
Max Newman writes:    
>I am looking for extract based barley wine ale recipes. Does
>anyone out there have a recipe that they would be willing to
>share? maxn at intermec.com

Here's mine, the best beer I've ever brewed (and getting better by the year!)

Marigold Ale:
 10 lbs Munton&Fisson Light un-hopped extract
 2 lbs marigold honey
 4 Oz. Fuggle leaf boil
 1 Oz. Cascade pellets finish
 Munton&Fisson Ale yeast
 champagne yeast (I used red-star 8-)

(It may not seem like enough hops at first glance, but it is...)
Pitch ale yeast first, then after activity has subsided, pitch
champagne yeast. Rack after clearing and let stand a LONG TIME in
secondary - this will continue developing a long time, so you don't
want to bottle too early and get over-carbonated. After bottling, wait
A LONG TIME (> year).

Watch out, you can get addicted to barley wine!

wa



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Date: Wed, 16 Jan 91 19:04:44 EST
From: Pete Soper <soper at maxzilla.encore.com>
Subject: baking bottles

  I've been using my oven to sterilize my bottles for a few years.  Digest old 
timers may recall that when this came up, Dick Dunn suggested that this could
be hazardous since the uneven heating could weaken the bottles and cause them
to fail when put under the pressure of carbonation. I decided to keep quiet 
about this until I had collected some data. I guess around two thousand
bottle's worth is enough to report on this with confidence.
  First, Dick is 100% right, that in some cases the bottles will be
permanently weakened; depending upon the amount of headspace in the bottles,
this could pose one heck of a health hazard. However the good news is that 
this weakening does not happen if the oven is started out at a low temperature
and then ramped up a little at a time and the maximum temperature is kept
moderate. I start at 160 and go up one wee skoshin ever few minutes, getting 
to 275-300 after maybe an hour. Based on what I've read it takes quite a while
at this temperature to get guaranteed sterilization. I usually hold around 275 
for a couple hours and then turn the oven off, letting it cool for 24 hours 
prior to bottling; I believe that trying to "force" the cooling of the
bottles would be very risky.
  I forgot a batch of bottles were in my oven once, got hungry the next day
and prepared to cook a pizza. Let's see "preheat oven to 450".  OK, oven 
preheated, open oven door: Darn if there aren't 50 very hot bottles in there.
Over half of those bottles failed during the two weeks after bottling and all 
the rest were discarded to avoid the risk of more failures. I was careful to
minimize the headspace and so when the bottles broke they did so with no
"explosion" whatsoever; they just typically cracked with a "clink" and drained.
With a couple inches of headspace there would have been more drama.
  But aside from this adventure with stupidity I haven't had a bottle failure 
recently; I'm 100% certain no bottles have broken in the past 18 months. I use 
the same pool of bottles over and over and some are pretty light weight, but 
I'm now quite satisfied that using my oven carefully is a way to avoid having
to soak the bottles in sterilant.
  Having said this, I believe that bottles must be *absolutely clean* prior to 
any sanitizing or sterilizing operation. The bottom line for me is making all 
the bottles of a batch of homebrew consistent. Careful mixing of priming sugar 
or extract is about the other 70% of consistency, IMHO. Thinking about the 
discussion of stratification of wort, keep in mind that just pouring your 
priming sugar on to top of the new beer and then bottling *doesn't make it* and 
will result in terrible variations in carbonation levels. 
- -----------------------------------------------------------------------
Pete Soper (soper at encore.com)                           +1 919 481 3730
Encore Computer Corp, 901 Kildaire Farm Rd, bldg D, Cary, NC 27511  USA

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Date: 16 Jan 91 20:55:47 MST (Wed)
From: ico.isc.com!rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn)
Subject: re: Mead + bees

> ...While I was boiling
> the honey, my house was attacked by bees!...
> ...This really struck me as odd that the bees would be
> so attracted to the smell of boiling honey...

Not odd at all.  The bees were seriously offended by your mistreatment of
their elaborate, extensive efforts at creating a wondrous foodstuff (and
meadstuff:-).  They sent emissaries to attempt to inform you of the error
of your ways.

			DON'T BOIL HONEY!

It isn't necessary, and it damages the flavor.

Just heat it gently to sterilize.  In fact, for typical mead proportions,
you can boil the water (and any other ingredients you might need which
actually require a boil, if any), turn off the heat, and add the honey.
The temperature will remain high enough to kill off the baddies without
hurting the honey.
 ---
Dick Dunn    rcd at raven.eklektix.com   -or-   raven!rcd


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Date: Thursday, 17 Jan 1991 07:39:27 EST
From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re:  Primary fermenter options

>From: Bill Thacker <hplabs!hp-lsd.cos.hp.com!cbema!wbt>

>First, on primaries.  Our kit came with a plastic bucket
>primary, but Papazian suggests using a glass carboy.  His logic
>(allowing the tannins and other vernicious nasties to blow out
>the top) makes good sense, and it strikes me as odd that this
>wouldn't be universally suggested.  The obvious question is "is
>there a good reason to use a plastic bucket for the primary ?"

Well, food-grade plastic buckets are cheap and plentiful.  Glass
carboys are more expensive, less plentiful, and subject to
breaking from being dropped, banged against something, or even
temperature shock.  Plus, they are harder to carry when full of
beer.  Also, since you can reach into a plastic bucket, it is
easier to stir in yeast or priming fluid, take samples, clean,
etc.

OTOH, plastic scratches easily, leaving places for bacteria to
grow (note that the sanitizing solution won't get in there to
kill them).  So you may need to change plastic buckets more
often.

Most people I know that use a glass primary use a 6 1/2 or 7
gallon primary and don't use the blowoff method.  The majority
opinion seems to be that blowoff doesn't really reduce the
bitterness of your beer and is capable of causing explosions
should the blowoff tube become clogged.

I switched from plastic to glass after the first year.  I think
glass is better, but still miss the ability to take samples by
simply dipping in a sanitized measuring tube.  I do use a plastic
bucket for mixing in the priming liquid before bottling.

>Second, on small batches.  It seems to me that brewing small
>batches could be a handy way to check out wierd brews or minor
>variations of a single recipe.  Does anyone out there do this ?

It makes a lot of sense.  However, I am so lazy that I figure I
might as well make 5 gallons each time, getting more beer that
way if it turns out good.  Also, if you use a secondary
fermenter, it helps to have it full to the top to avoid contact
with too much air and the resulting oxidation.  Still, I have
seriously considered buying a 3 gallon glass carboy for the very
purpose of making small batches (or maybe two for splitting a 6
gallon batch and testing different yeasts or somesuch).

>Third, on the law.  Papazian, I think, says that homebrew cannot
>be legally removed from the premises except for a beer-tasting
>event.  Can anyone comment on federal and/or Ohio laws
>regulating homebrewing of beer ?

I can't comment knowledgably on Ohio laws.  However, having read
the federal laws on homebrewing, there is nothing in there
restricting transportation of your homebrew.  I know in Virginia
that there are laws restricting the amount of alcohol you can
legally transmit across state lines (primarily designed to limit
people going to cheaper neighboring states and stocking up).  We
can legally take our homebrew anywhere we want that doesn't
restrict the presence of alcoholic beverages.

Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
Usenet:    at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo
Fidonet:  1:109/131

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Date: Thursday, 17 Jan 1991 07:40:02 EST
From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Bottle rinsing

>From: DRYFO001%DUKEMC.BITNET at ncsuvm.ncsu.edu

>I am curious about feedback on the above topic of rinsing
>bottles. I find this the worst part of the whole process.

>Oh yea, is using a dishwasher sufficient?  What should
>be used as detergent if so?

*I* find it sufficient to sanitize my bottles using the
dishwasher.  I set it to rinse and heat dry (skip the wash
cycle).  The steam from the heat dry should sanitize all the
bottles.

I also try to keep all bottles clean by rinsing after use and
occasionally tossing them into the dishwasher with other dishes.
You want to be careful not to leave any soap residue on your
bottles, though.

Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
Usenet:    at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo
Fidonet:  1:109/131

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Date: Thursday, 17 Jan 1991 07:40:50 EST
From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Home Brewing on Other Networks

>From: doc at brewing.cts.com (Mitchell M. Evans)

>        I have a request for information from a few other folks
>on a local Homebrew Echo out here in San Diego on Fidonet.

For those of you who use systems connected to Fidonet, there is a
*national* Home Brewing echo called ZYMURGY, which is available
from the backbone.

I can be reached at 1:109/131 for any more details.

Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
Usenet:    at ... at !uunet!hadron!blkcat!109!131!John_Decarlo
Fidonet:  1:109/131

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 91 13:19:01 GMT
From: Denis Anthony <esrmm at cu.warwick.ac.uk>
Subject: Unsubscribe me please


Return to table of contents


Date: Thu, 17 Jan 91 08:38:23 -0500
From: zentner at ecn.purdue.edu (Mike Zentner)
Subject: Bottle Rinsing

Norm Hardy writes:
>(1) Rinse real good after using, drain upside-down.
>(2) ...  I soak the bottles in a bleach bath (2% or so) for a 
     couple of hours.  This removes the layers of film that accumulate.
>(3) Upon rinsing with the bottle jet sprayer and hanging on a 
     bottle tree,
>    I usually go the extra mile and bake the bottles at 300f for 60 minutes.

and James Dryfoos writes:
> I am curious about feedback on the above topic of rinsing bottles.
> I find this the worst part of the whole process.
> I normally clean gunk out of bottles right away so later all I need is really
> to sterilize.  I use the above method of soaking in a bleach solution.
> This and the process of then rinsing is a drag (I also use a bottle washer).
> Are there better ways?  Is baking the bottles necessary?  I have not
> heard this before.  I feel like since I use bleach I need to painstakingly
> rinse the bottles.  Is something like bbrite a better alternative?
> Any advice would help.  What about this bottle tree thing?  I usually
> just shake out the bottle.  It is usually still wet when I fill it with

I too think that rinsing is a pain.  That's why I don't do it.  I
just rinse after use, soak in something like 3 tbsp bleach / 6 gal
water for a half hour, drain the bottles and put them back in the
case.  Then, I put paper towels in the lid of the case (over the tops
of the bottles) and invert the case overnight.  I have now done
this for at least 5 batches and have not had any carbonation 
problems or infections.  It is really a quite painless process,
but certainly not as thorough as you could be if you wanted to
be.

Mike Zentner   zentner at ecn.purdue.edu

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Date:     Thu, 17 Jan 91 9:55:55 EST
From: "Justin A. Aborn" <jaborn at BBN.COM>
Subject:  Bottle Rinsing, Quite Yeast

I have noticed some concerns about bottle cleaning and yeast that
does not really get going.  I thought I would contribute some
clinical evidence.

Bottle Washing
==============
I have brewed about eight extract batches in my brewing career
and I have yet to produce a spoiled bottle.  I rinse the bottles
after I pour myself a cool, refreshing, homebrew and put them in
the dish drainer upside down.  This keeps mold nuggets from
forming in the bottom.

10 minutes before I bottle I thoroughly rinse the bottles with a
bottle washer using the hottest water I can come up with.  I then
stick them on a bottle dryer I made out of a 2x4 and 1/4" dowels.
(The bottle dryer gets sponged off with a bleach solution before
the bottle washing.)

This bottle cleaning procedure is apparently completely
sufficient.  Like I said, out of about 450 bottles produced I
have yet to get a bad one.  Make your homebrewing as easy as
possible.


Slow Starting Yeast
===================
At the moment, I am fermenting my first batch that uses liquid
yeast.  Apparently liquid yeast is not as robust as the dried
stuff.  This batch took *much* longer to get going that *any* of
the dried yeast batches.  I brewed on a Wednesday night (late),
pitched at Thursday lunch, and it was not until Saturday night
that it really started to bubble.  The dried yeast batches
usually got going in less than 24 hours.  

I am in the secondary fermenter now.  All looks good.  All is
right.

Justin
Brewer and Patriot

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Date:         Thu, 17 Jan 91 10:41:03 CST
From: kevin vang <MN033302 at VM1.NoDak.EDU>
Subject:      feed barley

In HBD 566 Jeff Miller mentions that he malted his own barley, and was
unhappy with the results, and goes on to say that he purchased his barley
from a feed store.  Well, there's the problem right there. If you watch the
ag. commodities reports on the news, you'll notice that they quote separate
prices for feed barley and malting barley, and the price is substantially
lower for feed barley.  The difference between the two is that by definition,
feed barley is anything which isn't quite good enough to be used as malting
barley.  For example, if a farmer is out combining his malting barley and is
suddenly hit by a major rainstorm, he suddenly has a crop of feed barley.

If you want to find a better class of grain, don't go to the feed store.  Try
your local grain elevator around August or September.  Of course, that's no
problem here in the Land of the Amber Waves of Grain (North Dakota, in my case)
but it may be more complicated in other parts of the country.

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 91 11:58:15 EST
From: Chris Shenton <chris at asylum.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: re: Underaged beer at brewpubs

>>>>> On Wed, 09 Jan 91 12:16:24 EST, "Andy Wilcox" <andy at eng.ufl.edu> said:

Andy> ico.isc.com!rcd at raven.eklektix.com (Dick Dunn) writes:
	>I'll go a little further out on the limb and say that there is no
	>such thing as a "young" or "raw" taste for beer (unless you choose
	>to equate "young" and "fresh":-).

Andy> However, I can tell you this is *exactly* what I did for the first
Andy> couple years of my brewing.  Only after going back and tasting
Andy> budmilob did I notice that a certain type of flavor was missing.  I
Andy> now equate this flavor with "freshness".  


I was intrigued by the initial argument that the only reason to age beer
was to cover up some defects in the beer -- made some sense. But then how
does that justify the German lagering tradition?

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Date: Thu, 17 Jan 91 14:34:47 EST
From: durbin%cuavax.dnet at netcon.cua.edu
Subject: brew on planes, bacteria infections

I just got back from Germany with my case of fresh German beer, half
Schneider Weiss(hefe-weizen) and half Andechs doppelbock. Originally
I packed the case up real good in a baox and was going to check it in,
but when I went they asked about it and I told them what was in it and
they said no way( no glass, cans are okay). So I had a back up plan and
put the bottles in my carry on bag, gave the plastic case to my dad and
checked in my carry on stuff. Other than that no problems or hassles.
So you shouldn't have any trouble on domestic flights as long as you
carry on your brew. Also I noticed that German weizen beer bought in the
states doesn't taste as good as in Germany, I think mainly because its 
not as fresh. The head on american bought weizen dissipates more quickly
after pouring.Speaking of weizen beers, the bavarian dialect for weizen
is weiss, so weiss beer in Bavaria is different than elsewhere in Germany,
thus causing a bit of confusion to visitors who like weizen beer.
 I bottled the week before I left, and came home to a couple of cases of 
homebrew. One bottle I opened gushed foam( not like a real gusher) when I 
opened it, but all the others I've drunk have been ok. I was thinking that
bottle might have had a bacterial infection, any ideas?

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Date: Thu Jan 17 16:03:30 1991
From: semantic!bob at uunet.UU.NET
Subject: Layered Beer

In HBD 566, Mike Meyer writes:

> I've had this same problem with measuring OG when using a closed primary. 
> There seems to be a lot of stratification between the cold water you put
> in the primary to prevent thermal shock, and the hot or warm wort, and
> it is very difficult to mix the layers once you are in the carboy, as
> you can't fit a spoon in to stir, and there isn't enough headroom to 
> effectively shake.

Here is an easy solution to your problems:

     Take a sterile turkey baster, stick it in the hole of your
carboy, suck up some beer, and then squirt it back in with some
vigor, then repeat many times.  This will accomplish several
things: 1) It will mix up your different 'layers' of beer; 2) It
will create an even temperature through out the carboy; 3) It will
aerate your beer; 4) It will allow you to easily extract some beer
for your hydrometer readings; 5) It will allow you to mix in your
yeast rather then letting it all settle on the bottom.

This is what I do, It works great!  But remember to leave enough
head space for the foam you produce, otherwise it oozes over the
sides.  My baster is a cheap one and squirts a little beer out of
the sides every time I squeeze it.  So this is the messiest part
of my brewing processes, but it gives me an excuse to wash the
kitchen floor. (Albeit with beer :-)

Happy squirting,

- -- Robert A. Gorman (Bob)        bob at rsi.com           Watertown MA US --
- -- Relational Semantics, Inc.    uunet!semantic!bob    +1 617 926 0979 --
++ Basted beer is better beer


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Date:     Thu, 17 Jan 91 17:03 EST
From: <S94TAYLO%USUHSB.BITNET at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU>
Subject:  The Wholesale Homebrew Club

I should have just posted this info here in the first place:

        The Wholesale Homebrew Club
        5760 Bird Road
        Miami, FL  33155

        (305) 667-4266

Here are a few prices, all are typical, both in size and price.

1) M & F Malt Syrup 6-3.3 lb. cans-Unhopped $29.84
                                   Hopped   $32.49
2) M & F Dry Malt 55 lb. barrel   -Unhopped $89.64
                                   Hopped   $94.30
3) Hop Pellets by the pound                 $ 5.25
4) Leaf Hops by the pound                   $ 5.25
5) Specialty Malts-5 lb.                    $ 4.10
6) Corn Sugar-50 lb.                        $20.13
7) Crown Caps-printed overruns-70 gross!!   $32.78
8) Wyeast liquid culture-six pack           $15.90


All prices don't include postage, but is very reasonable, considering
the size of these orders.  Membership fee is $25, minimum order is $100.
Great idea for clubs.  Remember, if you live in the Washington, D.C. area,
call me before you sign up, I want to share this thing (i.e., I want to
defer part of the cost of the membership!)

By the way, I would like to see more recipes, or just ideas about recipes,
posted on the newsletter.  If you all are nice, I'll tell you my recipe for
Cranberry Beer (actually, I'll post it anyway soon).  Pucker up!

rdwhah,
Al Taylor
Uniformed Services University
School of Medicine

Now let's raise a glass of our best homebrew to our men and women fighting
and dying in the Persian Gulf.

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End of HOMEBREW Digest #567, 01/18/91
*************************************
-------

---