---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  Isolating S. delbrueckii (MIKE LIGAS)
  Isolating S. delbrueckii (MIKE LIGAS)
  Apologies (MIKE LIGAS)
  Isolating S. delbrueckii (MIKE LIGAS)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #684 (July 22, 1991) (Brad Isley)
  Re: Brewing software (John DeCarlo)
  Bottling from kegged beer? (Tom Bower)
  Re: sterilizing your water (krweiss)
  SS vs Al revisited (hersh)
  heat ("KATMAN.WNETS385")
  Ooops!  Ropiness ... (Martin A. Lodahl)
  reCulturing Yeast (Carl West)
  brewery tour ("KATMAN.WNETS385")
  SS/Al covers (Russ Gelinas)
  Stainless Steel Fermenter ("John Cotterill")
  Glassware (adietz)
  Keg pot lids ("MR. DAVID HABERMAN")
  subscription request (GASPAR)
  Area Homebrew Clubs? (814)867-2849" <BLI at PSUVM.PSU.EDU>
  Re: Darryl who?? (Carl Hensler)
  Beer tasting in Boston (adams)
  A lid for SS Boiling Keg (BAUGHMANKR)
  Kegging Question (Warren Kiefer)
  Re: brewing software (David Taylor)
  Re: making malt (Dr. Tanner Andrews)


Send submissions to homebrew%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com
Send requests to homebrew-request%hpfcmi at hplabs.hp.com
[Please do not send me requests for back issues]
Archives are available from netlib at mthvax.cs.miami.edu


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 	Tue, 23 Jul 1991 08:13:00 -0400
From: MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA>
Subject: Isolating S. delbrueckii

>I'm going to miss MeV; Wyeast wants a fortune for their pure S. Delbruckii
My way around this was to purchase Wyeast's Weizenbier yeast (No. 3056 - a
blend of S. cerevisiae and S. delbrueckii) and to plate it out on a Petri dish
containing malt agar. The individual S. cerevisiae and S. delbrueckii colonies
that formed displayed radically different colony morphologies. The S. cerevisiae
colonies were smooth, small and round domes, typical of the majority of S.
cerevisiae colonies on malt agar. The S. delbrueckii colonies grew more rapidly
and spread out flatter, with jagged edges around the colony perimeter. They
looked exactly like the colonies I had obtained many moons ago after plating
the pure M.eV S. delbrueckii strain.

I then picked a well isolated S. delbrueckii colony from the plate and used it
to inoculate a small volume (50 ml) of sterile wort. This was scaled up to a
500 ml culture which I used to make a batch of Weizenbier. The result was a
nice tangy Weizen with plenty of clovelike phenols. :-D

If you culture yeasts on agar plates I recommend this procedure. If not I
recommend looking into home culturing. It's not as complicated as it first
seems. I'd be willing to send pure S. delbrueckii to brewers within reasonable
mailing range (I live in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada). Maybe there are other HD
subscribers/yeast culturers willing to do the same in their local areas.

Return to table of contents


Date: 	Tue, 23 Jul 1991 08:06:00 -0400
From: MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA>
Subject: Isolating S. delbrueckii

>I'm going to miss MeV; Wyeast wants a fortune for their pure S. Delbruckii
>strain, and I'll want to make wheat

My way around this was to purchase Wyeast's Weizenbier yeast (No. 3056 - a
blend of S. cerevisiae and S. delbrueckii) and to plate it out on a Petri dish
containing malt agar. The individual S. cerevisiae and S. delbrueckii colonies
that formed displayed radically different colony morphologies. The S. cerevisiae
colonies were smooth, small and round domes, typical of the majority of S.
cerevisiae colonies on malt agar. The S. delbrueckii colonies grew more rapidly
and spread out flatter, with jagged edges around the colony perimeter. They
looked exactly like the colonies I had obtained many moons ago after plating
the pure M.eV S. delbrueckii strain.

I then picked a well isolated S. delbrueckii colony from the plate and used it
to inoculate a small volume (50 ml) of sterile wort. This was scaled up to a
500 ml culture which I used to make a batch of Weizenbier. The result was a
nice tangy Weizen with plenty of clovelike phenols. :-D

If you culture yeasts on agar plates I recommend this procedure. If not I
recommend looking into home culturing. It's not as complicated as it first
seems. I'd be willing to send pure S. delbrueckii to brewers within reasonable
mailing range (I live in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada). Maybe there are other HD
subscribers/yeast culturers willing to do the same in their local areas.

Return to table of contents


Date: 	Tue, 23 Jul 1991 08:30:00 -0400
From: MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA>
Subject: Apologies

I've been tring to send an edited letter and the E-mail send/edit keeps
f at *&%ng up. I hope that repeated versions of a garbled letter were not sent and
I apologize if they were.

Return to table of contents


Date: 	Tue, 23 Jul 1991 08:26:00 -0400
From: MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA>
Subject: Isolating S. delbrueckii

 make wheat

Ms
y way around this was to purchase Wyeast's Weizenbier yeast (No. 3056 - a
blend of S. cerevisiae and S. delbrueckii) andcontaining malt agar. The individu
   al S. cerevisiae and S. delbrueckii colonies
that formed displayed radically different colony morphologies. The S. cerevisiae
colonies were smooth, small and round domes, typical of the majority of S.
cerevisiae colonies on malt agar. The S. delbrueckii colonies grew more rapidly
and spread out flatter, with jagged edges around the colony perimeter. They
looked exactly like the colonies I had obtained many moons ago after plating
the pure M.eV S. delbrueckii strain.

I then picked a well isolated S. delbrueckii colony from the plate and used it
to inoculate a small volume (50 ml) of sterile wort. This was scaled up to a
500 ml culture which I used to make a batch of Weizenbier. The result was a
nice tangy Weizen with plenty of clovelike phenols. :-D

If you culture yeasts on agar plates I recommend this procedure. If not I
recommend looking into home culturing. It's not as complicated as it first
seems. I'd be willing to send pure S. delbrueckii to brewers within reasonable
mailing range (I live in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada). Maybe there are other HD
subscribers/yeast culturers willing to do the same in their local areas.


Return to table of contents


Date: Mon, 22 Jul 91 19:36:13 EDT
From: slammer!brad at emory.mathcs.emory.edu (Brad Isley)
Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #684 (July 22, 1991)

> 
> 
> 
> HOMEBREW Digest #684		             Mon 22 July 1991

Yo, anybody home?  Please unsbscribe me.  This is attempt #3.

Thanx!

Return to table of contents


Date: Tuesday, 23 Jul 1991 10:59:39 EDT
From: m14051 at mwvm.mitre.org (John DeCarlo)
Subject: Re: Brewing software

>Date: Thu, 18 Jul 91 07:46:27 -0700
>From: darryl at ism.isc.com (Darryl Richman)

>The Brewer's Worksheet is available from the various archives
>and is an Excel spreadsheet I wrote to do recipe formulation
 [...]
>A brewer over on CompuServe, Art Steinmetz, uploaded a version
>that had been translated to 1-2-3 on the PC (sorry, I don't have
>a copy--would someone be willing to download it and send it over
>to aem?).

Art was kind enough to upload it to my BBS, so I transferred it
to a system at work, uuencoded it, and mailed it to aem.
Hopefully I did my part correctly and the version in 1-2-3 format
will show up at the archives at mthvax.cs.miami.edu.

Internet: jdecarlo at mitre.org
           (or John.DeCarlo at f131.n109.z1.fidonet.org)
Fidonet:  1:109/131

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 8:53:56 PDT
From: Tom Bower <bower at hprnlme1.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Bottling from kegged beer?
Full-Name: Tom Bower

I got my Cornelius keg mostly to bypass the onerous chores associated
with bottling my homebrews, but sometimes I'd like to bottle some of a 
batch anyway -- for transportability.

So, what's the best way to bottle some when you're also kegging?

   1.) Pull off some of the flat brew before kegging.  Prime it with
       corn sugar based on the volume, and bottle.  Assuming I'm only
       going to do a half-dozen bottles or so, what's the best way?
       Some sugar per bottle, or make up a syrup to add to the whole
       bunch?  What's the best proportion on a per-ounce basis?


   2.) Bottle some of the already-carbonated beer straight out of the keg.
       Are there any tricks/gotchas with this?  Does naturally-carbonated
       work as well as CO2-tank-carbonated for bottling?

   3.) Other methods?

Tom Bower, HP RND R&D


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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1991 12:18:35 -0800
From: krweiss at ucdavis.edu
Subject: Re: sterilizing your water

Craig Artley writes:

>It was pain, but the shopkeeper
>said that using fresh tap water could result in unwanted bacterial
>contamination.  Next time I will be inclined to skip that step and relax,
>don't worry, and have a homebrew.  Opinions?

I'd go with relaxation on this... Unless Golden, CO is prone to outbreaks
of dysentary and suchlike water borne ills.

> 
>I also cooled the wort by placing the brewpot in a sink of cold water,
>which worked rather well.  I observed a lot of the protein sediment (trub)
>settling out in the fermenter, so I guess that means I got a good 
>"cold-break", right?  This fellow also recommended using two packets of
>yeast and rehydrating it in a bit of warm, sterilized water before
>pitching.  Are these also good ideas?

Yup, good ideas. Liquid yeast pitched into a starter is probably an even
better idea.

> 
>Craig Artley    cartley at dix.mines.colorado.edu    (303) 273-3557
>Dept. of Geophysics, Colorado School of Mines, Golden, CO  80401


Ken Weiss                                  krweiss at ucdavis.edu
Manager of Instruction
Computing Services                         916/752-5554
U.C. Davis
Davis, CA 95616


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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 15:34:51 EDT
From: hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu
Subject: SS vs Al revisited


OK, my vote. The winner for best method is...

Weight, well actually density. If you have some container big enough to
determine the displacement of the pot, and a scale to weigh it, then you can
determine it's density, and thus easily know whether it's Al or SS.

As for Craig Artley:
	In all the places I've lived in the last fre years I've gotten city
water specs. All of them had bacteria ranges in the level of 1 per 10,000 parts
water (ie real low). Boiling to sterilize is a waste of time. Boiling to remove
volatile chlorines however is worthwhile.

If you have a big enough brewpot (see SS vs Al debates... :-) then you don't
need to pre-boil you're water, just boil all your wort and use a wort chiller.
If you don't well pre-boiling is good, but I'd say far from a mantra.

 - JaH


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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 19:41 GMT
From: "KATMAN.WNETS385" <6790753%356_WEST_58TH_5TH_FL%NEW_YORK_NY%WNET_6790753 at mcimail.com>
Subject: heat



     Date: 23-Jul-91      Time: 03:40 PM       Msg: EXT01586

Hello,
I started my first batch of beer (a brown ale) Sunday July 13. I think I
pitched the yeast a bit early (the wort was not 78 degrees), but it seemed to
be doing just fine. July 18 or 19 I racked it into a second carboy to get it
off the trub (a friend who homebrews says it's too hot to leave it there). It
has not been bubbling much at all since then. The temperature has been over 85
each day since before I racked, and got up to 102 last Saturday. Have my yeast
all died? Will taking a SG reading let me know anything? (I forgot to do an
original SG reading, but the kit had predicted final gravity readings). It also
gave off banana smells. Is this really bad? I thought brown ales were supposed
to be fruity, and I do like bananas... When I racked it it tasted like it had
fermented.

Lee Katman == Thirteen/WNET == New York, NY

=Do not= use REPLY or ANSWERBACK, I can not receive mail in that fashion.
Please send all mail to
INTERNET katman.wnets385%wnet_6790753 at mcimail.com
OR
MCIMAIL EMS: wnet 6790753  MBX: katman.wnets385



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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 10:13:14 PDT
From: Martin A. Lodahl <pbmoss!malodah at PacBell.COM>
Subject: Ooops!  Ropiness ...

In HOMEBREW Digest #682, Richard Stueven asked the not-at-all
Stupid Question (TM):

>In HBD #681, Martin Lodahl wrote:
>
>>It only took about 10 days (and some premature hot weather) to
>>produce decided ropiness, so I pitched the Brettanomyces.
>
>Maybe I'm just slow on the uptake, but what's "rope"?  I've seen the
>term in a number of places, but I've never been able to figure out what
>it means...

Sorry I missed this question the first time I read this Digest
issue.  "Rope" is a really weird effect of certain bacterial
contaminants, where gelatinous filaments are formed, often
accompanied by a sort of oily texture and a lactic acid sourness. 
By almost any standard it's revolting, but it's one of the stages
lambics usually go through.  Some lambics never get beyond it.  In
my present batch, it appeared as if the top 1" or so was utterly
crammed with clear-to-whitish tubifex worms.  Within a couple of
weeks of pitching the Brettanomyces culture, it had cleared up.

>thx...I owe you a homebrew.

I'll look forward to collecting, some day ...

= Martin A. Lodahl   			Pacific*Bell Systems Analyst =
= malodah at pbmoss.Pacbell.COM       Sacramento, CA       916.972.4821 =
= If it's good for ancient Druids, runnin' nekkid through the wuids, =
= Drinkin' strange fermented fluids, it's good enough for me!  8-)   =


Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 15:57:54 EDT
From: eisen at kopf.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Carl West)
Subject: reCulturing Yeast

Mark Castleman asked about saving a successful yeast.

I recently cultured the yeast from a SNPA bottle and have since pitched a batch 
with it (the batch in the T-shirts). Everything smells and looks good. When I rack 
the beer off, I figure on swirling-up and bottling some of the yeast-cake itself 
and sticking it, unprimed, directly into the fridge. I figure that if the yeast 
survived that sort of treatment before it got to me, it can take some more of it. 
So long as it's already dormant it seems it should work. 

That's how I plan to go about it unless someone here can show me that it won't work.


 -Carl `This is all conjecture, I've never done it either' West


P.S. The yeast was cultured *in* the SNPA bottle (after pouring out the beer) by 
adding progressively larger amounts of weak wort, then allowing it to ferment out 
and go dormant. At which point I tasted, flamed and capped it and stuck it in the 
fridge for a couple of weeks. That part seems to have worked.

Return to table of contents


Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 20:12 GMT
From: "KATMAN.WNETS385" <6790753%356_WEST_58TH_5TH_FL%NEW_YORK_NY%WNET_6790753 at mcimail.com>
Subject: brewery tour



     Date: 23-Jul-91      Time: 04:11 PM       Msg: EXT01588

Hello again,
   We went on a tour of New Haven Brewing Company, a local micro. They make Elm
City, Connecticut Ale, Blackwell Stout and Mr. Mike's light (made light by
replacing some barley with wheat and fermenting to only 2.3%). They use local
water and boil it 3-4 hours but add nothing to treat it. (New Haven water has
lots of bacterial problems and they use lots of Chlorine to combat it in the
water supply) They mash, sparge, ferment (at very cold temps) and then filter
(cold filtered). They carbonate in a "bright beer" tank with a stone that lets
them put CO2 back in, then bottle.
   One can't taste the beer there, they are afraid of suits. They used to let
people have up to 2 beers, but got sued twice and lost insurance once (in only
2 years of operation). Suit one was by a City Alderman who hurt his gums on the
crab dip at the opening party. Chris (who gave the tour) couldn't remember the
second suit. The insurance loss was strange. They had a homebrew club coming
in, and were having a small party for the club (a keg and some munchies). A
couple came and wanted a tour (they were not with the club) they were given a
short tour, told about the club coming in, and the couple asked could they stay
for the long tour? They were allowed to stay, and no one kept a real close
watch on them. When the party started, the homebrew club acted responsibly,
talked, ate, drank some beer. The guy with the couple drank himself sick. Turns
out that the woman was a secretary with an insurance company and when NHB
applied for insurance she told her boss "don't give them insurance they got my
boyfriend drunk." Now the brewery is applying for a license as a brewpub as
well as a micro so they can serve beer after their tours.
   Now they are having to fight Molsen. Molsen and Volvo are sponsoring a
Tennis tournament in New Haven and have paid all the local merchants to run
Molsen specials (normally few bars have it, it doesn't sell locally). They are
sponsoring a beer garden and concerts on the Green, etc. NHB has just begun to
advertise more, and are getting drowned out by the big corporation. Support the
little guys, buy local beer!

Lee Katman == Thirteen/WNET == New York, NY

=Do not= use REPLY or ANSWERBACK, I can not receive mail in that fashion.
Please send all mail to
INTERNET katman.wnets385%wnet_6790753 at mcimail.com
OR
MCIMAIL EMS: wnet 6790753  MBX: katman.wnets385



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Date:    Tue, 23 Jul 1991 16:26:59 EDT
From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: SS/Al covers

  I have been contemplating the purchase of a stainless brewpot from
Rapids, Inc.  Expensive at some $90, but I think it may be worth it.  On
the other hand, a s.s. cover for the pot goes for a good chunk of $ too,
somewhere around $20-30, whereas an aluminum cover goes for less than half
of that.  Anyone know if there's any reason *not* to put an Al cover on
a stainless pot?

  Re. boiling all your brew water:  I use municipal water that comes from
a lake.  The water quality is better in the winter than it is in the summer.
That's a subjective statement, (it tastes better in the winter), but it also
makes some qualitative sense.  Summer lake water has a higher and more active
bacteria level, and treatment requires balancing between chlorine and bacteria
levels.  I haven't boiled all my water in the past, and I've produced some
fine beer, but the beer I've made in the summer sometimes "soured" after a while
(months, usually), whereas winter-made beer hasn't soured.  There's a zillion
possible reasons for this other than the water, but it seems to me that if
you've got a way to cool and store the top-off water, it would eliminate a
possible major source of contaminants, especially in the warmer months if
your water supply is like mine.

  Still no response on my question of how much it costs to start up a brewpub
or microbrewery.  Anybody know?

Russ

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 13:47:06 PDT
From: "John Cotterill" <johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp.com>
Subject: Stainless Steel Fermenter
Full-Name: "John Cotterill"

Does anyone know where I can obtain a stainless steel fermenter with a conical
bottom on it (just like the pros!) that holds about 6 gallons??  I had this
great idea that if I cut the bottom off of a Cornelius Keg, and welded a 
stainless funnel on the bottom, I would have just what I need.  The trouble
was that I could not find a funnel large enough.  A custom funnel costs about
$250.  Anyhow, you get the idea of what I'm looking for.  Any suggestions where
to find it??
- --
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
~       John Cotterill  (916) 785-4138          ~
~       Systems Technology Division             ~
~       8010 Foothills Blvd.                    ~
~       Roseville, CA 95678                     ~
~       HPDesk: John (hprpcd) /HP5200/UX        ~
~       Unix to Unix: johnc at hprpcd.rose.hp      ~
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

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Date: 23 Jul 1991   9:30 EDT
From: hplabs!ames!rutgers!bellcore.bellcore.com!hera!afd (adietz)
Subject: Glassware

Where can I find a good selection of bar glassware?  
I need pilsner glasses, pint mugs, and pint glasses.

 -A Dietz
Bellcore, Morristown


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Date: 23 Jul 91 14:29:00 PDT
From: "MR. DAVID HABERMAN" <habermand at afal-edwards.af.mil>
Subject: Keg pot lids

>I am fortunate enough to have a 15 ga. keg ready to be converted
>to boiling kettle, but first I would like to get a good lid
>for it and cut the hole to match.
>
>Can anyone recommend a good lid for this?
>
>	Thanks,
>	Bob C.

Try the lid from a wok.  You should be able to get away with a small lip
around the inside of the keg.  One of my fellow Maltose Falcons (NOT Darryl
Richman!) made a fluid level indicator for his keg out of a toilet bowl float
so that he didn't have to stand on a ladder to check it.  I haven't started
building my 15 gal. setup yet.

I haven't made the index of HB digests for June yet since I am missing some. 
Did anyone get a whole no. 667?  I saw references about Europe.  I am going to
beer heaven (Germany, Belgium, Netherlands, and Denmark) next month.

I was able to get a 10 deg. F. drop in temperature using the wet T-shirt
method.  The upside-down jug is a good idea for refilling the tub with water. 
I used a fan several feet away to help the effect.  Puting the fan too close
causes the shirt to dry up faster than it can wick.

 -
David A. Haberman
Email: habermand at afal-edwards.af.mil
Benny's Bait Shop and Sushi Bar - "Today's Bait is Tomorrow's Plate!"


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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 16:53:33 CDT
From: GASPAR at WUCHEM.wustl.edu
Subject: subscription request


Please enter my subscription to your homebrewing list.  Thank you!

                                                        Peter Gaspar
                                                        Chemistry
                                                        Washington Univ.
                                                        St. Louis, MO
e-mail address: GASPAR at WUCHEM

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Date:    Tue, 23 Jul 91 17:58 EDT
From: "JEFF BRENDLE S:(814)867-2849" <BLI at PSUVM.PSU.EDU>
Subject: Area Homebrew Clubs?

Someone mentioned a trip to the microbrewery in NJ.  I was wondering where the
local homebrew clubs are in the SE and Central PA area (Reading & State College
if that helps.)?  Also...any news on what's tapping at the PA Micro's??  I'd
like to try to "make my rounds" before returning to school in August...anything
really good out there (besides the Beer Fest going on now at Stoudt's up the
road 7mi. in Adamstown)?

 -JeffB.
PennState Homebrewer

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 14:44:23 -0700
From: carl at ism.isc.com (Carl Hensler)
Subject: Re: Darryl who??

>> Just who is Darryl Richman, anyway ?  :-)

Darryl Richman is a Principal Member of the Technical Staff at
Interactive Systems Corporation, where he has worked for about
eight years.  He is an accomplished programmer who started out
hacking compilers, and moved on to Unix drivers and kernel
internals.  He is currently working on advanced user interfaces.

Darryl lives in the Northridge area of the San Fernando valley
with his wife, Heather, four hyperactive mutts, and innumerable
birds, snakes, lizzards, tortoises, etc.

Darryl makes excellent, prize-winning beer, and is a regular
contributor to the Homebrew Digest.

If you want more details of Darryl's life, send me some money and
I'll tell you some really juicy stories about him.  Like the time
I found him and that big red bird ...

Carl Hensler
Interactive Systems Corporation


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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 17:54:32 EDT
From: adams at bostech.com
Subject: Beer tasting in Boston

While listening to the radio this weekend, I heard an
advertisment for a beer tasting, sponsored by WBUR (Boston).
The date is Thursday August 15, and the cost is 30
bucks.  It will run from 6 to 10, and is supposed to
be the largest beer tasting on the East Coast this 
year.  Brewers from every New England state except
Rhode Island will be present.  (I wonder why Hope is not
involved...) Also, several restraunts and snack food 
companies will be offering their wares.
The location is 808 Commonwealth Ave. Boston.

You can order tickets in advance by calling WBUR at 
(617)353-3800 and using your MC / Visa card. They recommend
buying tickets in advance.

EMail me if you're interested; maybe we can get a whole gang
of homebrewers together.

Dave Adams
adams at bostech.com

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 1991 20:34 EST
From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU
Subject: A lid for SS Boiling Keg

>From: Bob.Clark at Eng.Sun.COM (bobc at wings.Eng - Bob Clark)

>I am fortunate enough to have a 15 ga. keg ready to be converted
>to boiling kettle, but first I would like to get a good lid
>for it and cut the hole to match.

>Can anyone recommend a good lid for this?

Yeah.  I use the lid from my Wok.

Kinney Baughman      |      Beer is my business and
                     |      I'm late for work

Darryl Richman?  Did somebody say, Darryl Richman??  :-]


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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 20:34:33 -0400
From: "Alan Mcpherron" <mcph at unix.cis.pitt.edu>

Please add me to your list.  Thanks.

		Alan McPherron		Tel:  (412) 648-7513
		Anthropology Dept.	Fax:  (412) 648-5911
		Univ. Pittsburgh	mcph at unix.cis.pitt.edu   
		Pittsburgh PA 15260	MCPH at PITTUNIX.Bitnet     

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 19:22:40 -0600
From: Warren Kiefer <oopwk at TERRA.OSCS.MONTANA.EDU>
Subject: Kegging Question



	I now have obtained a root beer keg from the local pepsi distributor,
what I'm wondering is what I'll have to do to get this baby in action ??  The
keg has two fittings, each fitting has 3 pegs on it and a valve on the top that
goes in when you push on it (such technical terms !!). Can I go to the local
hardware store and get what I'll need to attach the CO2 and the tapper or will
I have to go back to the distibutor and get the pieces I need ??

	On a side note has anyone had the Sierra Nevada Summerfest Lager yet,
I wasn't real impressed but maybe it's just me. If at first your not happy,
drink it, drink it again !!


- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
|~~~|_     "A mug a day             Warren R. Kiefer    
|ale|_)     keeps the DOC away !"   BITnet: oopwk at mtsunix1
|___|                               INTERnet: oopwk at terra.oscs.montana.edu  
                                    MSU Computing Center
"All opinions are definitely mine"  
_____________________________________________________________________________

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Date: Wed, 24 Jul 91 14:54 EST
From: David Taylor <DAVID at phillip.edu.au>
Subject: Re: brewing software

In HBD#683 Darryl Richman (gooday Darryl!!) writes:

> The Brewer's Worksheet is available from the various archives and is an
> Excel spreadsheet I wrote to do recipe formulation work.

I would like to get my hands on this but can't find it on mthvax at Miami.
Can anyone point me to an archive site FTP'able from Aus. where I may pick
it up? My last few brews have varied from what was intended so feel the need
to tighten up my recipe formulations.

Be careful not to spill any!  David

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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 22:06:54 -0700
From: mason at enuxha.eas.asu.edu (Frank W. Mason)

Greetings!
I am about to attempt my first batch and would like to trouble the experts
for a little advice before I forge blindly ahead.  I have been reading
the Digest (and anything else I can find) for about two months now and
have poured over so much info that it is becoming a bit muddled!  Any advice
would be greatly appreciated.
I purchased a "starter kit" from the best-known local supplier (read only
local supplier) and got everything but a glass carboy (I know...the Digest's
Beginner file recommends one. I guess I just got so caught up in the excitement
of it all I forgot).  Anyway, the supplier suggests I forgo secondary fermen-
tation in the carboy by priming the bottles.  I know I have read opinions
regarding this here before, but forget what the concensus was.  Should I 
take the slightly more complicated route and procure a carboy first, or
is simplicity worth the cost in flavor for the first batch?  I have a hopped
malt extract (IRONMASTER Brown Ale) to keep it simple, but should I also
add some finishing hops or is that getting a bit too esoteric for a first
batch?  Another concern is that I live in the desert.  The days are about
105 degrees right now and keeping the house at 65 degrees for aging the 
bottled brew would raise the per bottle cost beyond reason.  Is 78 - 80 degrees
OK or will it ruin the quality of the beer?

Thanks in advance for any help.  This Digest has been the single greatest
inducement for my interest in homebrewing...thanks to all involved!

Frank


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Date: Tue, 23 Jul 91 7:20:39 EDT
From: Dr. Tanner Andrews <tanner at ki4pv.compu.com>
Subject: Re: making malt

I suspect that it's not practical to make barley malt in the home,
but there are people who would disagree.  One home soda/wine/beer
book advises doing just that thing.

I have made wheat malt, but just a couple of pounds to flavor some
beer.  Buy whole wheat at the health food store, cover it with water
and let it sit in the sun for a couple of days to start sprouting.
Dry in the oven at low temperature, stirring regularly.  Grind and
use in the mash.

Lots of trouble.  Add in oven and labor and it's cheaper to buy it.
- -- 
...!{bikini.cis.ufl.edu allegra uunet!cdin-1}!ki4pv!tanner


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End of HOMEBREW Digest #686, 07/24/91
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