---

	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  A First Time for Everything (Mitchell M. Evans)
  Wort Chilling (Ifor Wyn Williams)
  Some questions (Lars Nilsson)
  slimy, foul smelling infections (card)
  Re : Beer Infections (Conn Copas)
  Re : Beer Infections (Conn Copas)
  Centennial Hops (Mike Tavis)
  Colonel John (7 gallon carboys) (Chris Shenton)
  Re: Making Mead (Chris Shenton)
  RE>Homebrew Digest #701 (Au (Rad Equipment)
  help (Russ Gelinas)
  Rice Syrup Solids -- how solid? (Brian D. Moore)
  Boulder Creek Brewing/Cafe (Jueal, Stacey)
  Cider list has gone Digest (I think, hope....) (hersh)
  Brewing salts (CaCl) (ez005142)
  Re: John Bull Extract (korz)
  Re: Wild and crazy yeasts (korz)
  Priming with malt extract (korz)
  Re: gusher (korz)
  Re: Guinness-style taps (korz)
  Thomas Jefferson, Fellow Homebrewer (BAUGHMANKR)
  ice (korz)
  smorgasborge (Chad Epifanio)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 5 Aug 91 06:42:15 PST
From: doc at brewing.cts.com (Mitchell M. Evans)
Subject: A First Time for Everything

Howdy fellow brewmaniacs!

    I had a first...my first BAAAAD batch.  I've been brewing for about
    3 1/2 years now, and was getting a little cocky, so I figure it was
    bound to happen.  Went something like this:

    After about 6 days (which I thought was a short fermentation at the
    time), the fermentation stopped.  S.G. looked pretty good...not  as
    good as hoped, but still acceptable.  Wrong Answer!   I  was making
    some mighty fine glass grenades.  The time came to open  the  first
    one of the batch...

    Glass and beer shot 20 feet across my house, peppering the walls in
    my living room, dining room, and kitchen.  On the way to the walls,
    the glass opened my thumb to the bone.  Yee-hah.  The mess was hor-
    rible, as you might imagine.  I bled like a stuck pig.

    The moral of the story?  If you're in the least bit wary about  how
    your fermentation has progressed...be careful opening the first one
    of the batch!  I just (very cautiously) opened one of my new batch,
    an oatmeal stout, last night.  Perfecto.  My hands were shaking.  I
    am very glad that I open bottles out (away from my body),  and  not
    up toward my face.

    How can I be sure that the bottle I am about to open is not a bomb?
    Any hints would make opening the first bottle of a batch much  less
    traumatic for me, from now on.

						Mitch


=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=
=   ...!crash!brewing!doc		    US MAIL: Mitch Evans	    =
=	     or 				     12373 Calle Albara #5  =
=    doc at brewing.cts.com			     El Cajon, CA  92019    =
=									    =
= "You wouldn't know a good time if it stripped naked, hopped on your face, =
= and started wiggling!" -- C. Stanley                                      =
=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=




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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 10:16:57 BST
From: Ifor Wyn Williams <ifor at computer-science.manchester.ac.uk>
Subject: Wort Chilling

Steve Anthony <steveo at Think.COM> wrote:
> I had then thought that putting the coil of the chiller in my kitchen sink
> and surrounding it with crushed ice water would cool the boiling wort
> appropriately. But will it? Is there a way to figure out what the resultant
> temp of the wort would be? I'd hate to end up with wort that was at 120F
> and risk possible infection waiting for it to cool in the carboy prior to
> pitching. 

I use 10M of 8mm copper tubing (easy to coil by hand and lots of
surface area for the volume) placed in the kitchen sink under running
water at 15C. I syphon the almost boiling wort through and it comes
out at approx. 18C. It takes about 20 mins to do 5 gallons.

I've not done the sums, but I suspect your crushed ice water would
warm up too quickly - there's a lot of heat to be transfered!

Ifor.

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 12:39:23 MET DST
From: etxsral at hal.ericsson.se (Lars Nilsson)
Subject: Some questions


Here is some questions:

1. What is Corn Sugar ?
   (Sorry for this stupid question but I have never seen this type
    of sugar in Sweden or the U.K. )

2. I noticed that Boot's in the U.K. have two different yeast strains
   Beer Yeast and Genuin Beer Yeast.
   What's the difference betwen them ?
   Is the Genuin yeast a real top-fermenting yeast ?

- -- 
Lars Nilsson        
Communication Engineer
Ericsson Telecom AB , Stockholm - Sweden
Phone: +46 8 719 7308 , Fax: +46 8 645 6076
E-mail: etxsral at hal.ericsson.se

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 08:40:55 EDT 
From: card at apollo.hp.com
Subject: slimy, foul smelling infections

Ken:

I'd bet on the water. Try boiling ~ 3-4 gallons a day or 2 ahead. 
Cool it overnite in the pot and the pour it into the 7 gallon carboy 
and cool to ~40F in a fridge. Also as a precaution, never add unboiled 
water (finings, primer, etc.). When racking to the secondary, add 
boiled and cooled to room temp water to top off. 

/Mal
  

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 14:15:44 bst
From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at loughborough.ac.uk>
Subject: Re : Beer Infections

To Kevin McBride : Sorry for the lack of response, but I suspect that
public discussion of beer infections is almost as taboo as discussion of
personal infections, ie, it is something we have all encountered at one
time or another, but are reluctant to admit. 

When in doubt, suspect your yeast! Just because it is commercially produced
doesn't mean it is good. So my first move would be to change strains.
Alternatively, if you are really attached to that strain, you might like to
try purifying it. The simplest method is to acidify your starter culture
overnight at a pH of 4. That should take care of most bacterial nasties. It
is a standard routine for those who save and propogate yeast cultures. You
could use more advanced lab techniques as described in HD 701. There is a
discussion there of the problems of culturing from Chimay. I have also
found the same with Guinness.

Lastly, an obvious suggestion. Why not try pre-boiling your spring water,
or at least giving it a dash of sodium met the day before brewing ? Also,
if you have the misfortune to encounter again the beginnings of more
spoilage, sodium met treatment at an early enough stage could salvage
something drinkable. In that case, you would need to re-pitch with yeast
the following day.


Regards 

Conn V Copas                                   tel : (0509)263171  ext 4164
Loughborough University of Technology          fax : (0509)610815
Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre            
Leicestershire  LE11 3TU                    e-mail -    
G Britain                         (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut  
                     (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk







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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 14:15:50 bst
From: Conn Copas <C.V.Copas at loughborough.ac.uk>
Subject: Re : Beer Infections

To Kevin McBride : Sorry for the lack of response, but I suspect that
public discussion of beer infections is almost as taboo as discussion of
personal infections, ie, it is something we have all encountered at one
time or another, but are reluctant to admit. 

When in doubt, suspect your yeast! Just because it is commercially produced
doesn't mean it is good. So my first move would be to change strains.
Alternatively, if you are really attached to that strain, you might like to
try purifying it. The simplest method is to acidify your starter culture
overnight at a pH of 4. That should take care of most bacterial nasties. It
is a standard routine for those who save and propogate yeast cultures. You
could use more advanced lab techniques as described in HD 701. There is a
discussion there of the problems of culturing from Chimay. I have also
found the same with Guinness.

Lastly, an obvious suggestion. Why not try pre-boiling your spring water,
or at least giving it a dash of sodium met the day before brewing ? Also,
if you have the misfortune to encounter again the beginnings of more
spoilage, sodium met treatment at an early enough stage could salvage
something drinkable. In that case, you would need to re-pitch with yeast
the following day.


Regards 

Conn V Copas                                   tel : (0509)263171  ext 4164
Loughborough University of Technology          fax : (0509)610815
Computer-Human Interaction Research Centre            
Leicestershire  LE11 3TU                    e-mail -    
G Britain                         (Janet):C.V.Copas at uk.ac.lut  
                     (Internet):C.V.Copas%lut.ac.uk at nsfnet-relay.ac.uk







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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 09:38:42 edt
From: mtavis at saturn.hyperdesk.com (Mike Tavis)
Subject: Centennial Hops

Has anyone had any experience with Centennial hops?  I picked some up
the other day because I had never tried them.  When I got home and
checked my references on hops (including the Zymurgy Hop issue), I
couldn't find anything on Centennial.  I assume that it is a fairly
new variety?  So what's it like?  Thanks.

- -- Mike

  o o|  Michael Tavis, HyperDesk Corporation
  o o|  Suite 300, 2000 West Park Dr., Westboro, MA  01581
  ---+  E-mail: mike_t at hyperdesk.com        (508) 366-5050


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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 09:41:45 EDT
From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Colonel John (7 gallon carboys)

Colonel John Brewqing Supplies and Equipment
745 Pine Street
Boulder, CO 80302
303-442-2789

As far as I know, he doesn't have a catalog, so call him and see if he's
got the carboys in stock, the price, et al.

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 09:57:18 EDT
From: Chris Shenton <chris at endgame.gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Making Mead

On Tue, 13 Aug, MIKE LIGAS <LIGAS at SSCvax.CIS.McMaster.CA> said:

MIKE> I boil the honey/water mixture for 30 minutes and chill it. After
MIKE> this I usually add various fruits to the cooled solution along with
MIKE> some yeast nutrients and tannin. When adding fruit(s) I always add
MIKE> 1/4 tsp. pottasium metabisulfite per gallon to sterilize the mixture
MIKE> and let it stand (covered) for 24 hours before pitching the yeast.
MIKE> This is how wine musts are sterilized since boiling fruit will set
MIKE> the pectins and cause chill haze problems, as well as ruin the
MIKE> delicate fruit flavours one wishes to enjoy later.

I am somewhat allergic to potasium metabisulfite, as are a number of
asthmatics, I hear.  Some champagnes, labelled ``Contains Sulfites'' have
really set me off, so I would like to avoid using them in my recipes for
mead.

Wouldn't you get the same effect if you boiled/simmered the honey, allowed
fermentation to begin until a high alcohol level was achieved, *then* added
fruit?

To be honest, I did use the sulfite trick for my first batch of mead, and
it hasn't bothered me. Of course, subsequent batches without haven't either!

Am I missing something?  [Where's Cher Feinstein, by the way?]

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Date: 14 Aug 91 08:22:06
From: Rad Equipment <Rad_Equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
Subject: RE>Homebrew Digest #701 (Au

        Reply to:   RE>Homebrew Digest #701 (Augus
In HBD #701 Russ Gelinas says:

>  Steel cut oatmeal needs to be mashed.  Because of the heat and
>  pressure used to make rolled oats, however, they (rolled) do not need
>  to be mashed.

Sorry Russ but this goes against my understanding of the use of oats, etc.  ALL
forms of oats must be mashed.  Any form other than oatmeal must be "cooked"
prior to mashing (just like rice and whole barley) in order to get the starch
into the proper condition.  The action of "rolling" oats (or other grains) to
get "meal" or "flaked" versions does the same work as cooking and they may be
added directly to the mash.  Adding non-mashed oatmeal to a brew only increases
the starch content of the wort which does not ferment out as it never becomes
sugar.  I believe Miller covers this in TCHoHB.

I doubt I have to make this request in this Digest, as I know I hear if I'm off
base, however, Please correct me if I am in error here.

Thanks, RW...



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Date:    Wed, 14 Aug 1991 13:44:59 EDT
From: R_GELINAS at UNHH.UNH.EDU (Russ Gelinas)
Subject: help

  Kevin's got a problem with infection.  Here's my suggestions:  boil *all*
of your water, including the Poland Spring water.  It can't hurt.  Cool your
wort as fast as possible, and keep it covered.  Use all new tubing.  Buy a
new bottle filler.  Use only squeaky-clean bottles.  Soak them overnight in a
bleach solution.  Boil your bottlecaps.  Wash down your whole kitchen.  Keep
drafts away when brewing.  Wear clean clothes when brewing.  Don't weed the
garden while you're waiting for the wort to cool.  An open window on a windy
summer day is an invitation for *things* to come into your clean kitchen.
I guess most of all, think of any and all ways for those *things* to get into
your wort, and eliminate them.
  The worst case would be to just wait until the summer *thing* activity
calms down with the cooler fall weather.  But that would mean months without
homebrew....hmmmm, I wouldn't want to risk that.   Good luck.

Russ G.

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 12:56:38 CDT
From: Brian D. Moore <bemo at spacsun.rice.edu>
Subject: Rice Syrup Solids -- how solid?


     My local HB store had the latest batch of rice syrup solids, so I bought
some (surprise), with the intention of making sake.  It has been malted and
dried, presumably as an adjunct for American-style beers, so I thought I could
find a measure of the gravity per pound per gallon, but i haven't yet.  So, I
put it to those more knowledgable: A pound of RSS in a gallon of water yields
what gravity?  Anyone?
                                                      -- bemo

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Date: 14 Aug 91 18:02 GMT
From: JUEAL.S at AppleLink.Apple.COM (Jueal, Stacey)
Subject: Boulder Creek Brewing/Cafe

Dearest fellow homebrewers,
 
In case you haven't heard (and believe me I *CHECKED* past issues before
posting this for fear of being shot down in flames ;-) )
 
While traveling throught the Santa Cruz mountains here in California, Slug and
I passed through the quite little town of Boulder Creek.  Lo and behold there
on the main drag (Highway 9) was the 'Boulder Creek Brewing Co. & Cafe'.  Much
to our pleasure it was open for business (last time we went through Boulder
Creek they were under construction, approx. 9/90).
 
The beertender, Stacey (great name, huh?), assured us they'd been doing a
booming business since their opening in 10/90.  This was backed up completely
by the fine beers we tasted.  The first, a marzen, was INCREDIBLE!  The second
was a bock and equally incredible.  The final offering was a Red Ale.  We
didn't try this one.  The first two were so incredible that we each had a
second pint of the same beer.
 
As for the food, what a menu.  After reading it over it was easy to tell that
the proprietor knows what goes with good beer.  All I can say is GARLIC FRIES
TO DIE FOR!!!  Incredible burgers, we tried the cheese, bacon and mushrooms and
the cheese and avacado (*VERY* Santa Cruz-ish ;-).
 
Anyway, I heartily reccomend the Boulder Creek Brewing Co. and Cafe to anyone
passing through Boulder Creek.  We enjoyed it so much that we decided it would
be a delightful drive from our home in Mountain View on a lazy Sunday
afternoon.  It could also be paired with a trip to the Bonny Doon Winery in
Bonny Doon!  Anyway, for what its worth, there ya have it...
 
Stacey (the Sweetie of 'Slug & Sweetie')
 

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 15:54:23 EDT
From: hersh at expo.lcs.mit.edu
Subject: Cider list has gone Digest (I think, hope....)


To all of you who felt themselves inundated with e-mail from the Cider list
(be glad you don't subscribe to xpert at expo.lcs.mit.edu)

I have received some scripts from Rob G (your humble HBD coordinator) and 
seem to have successfully got them working (and blew 1/2 a day, but what the
heck it's that or write PEX documentation Ugh...).

So now the Cider list is a 2 times a day (11AM & 6PM EWT....Eastern 
Whatchamacallit Time) in a digest format.

It won't send you empty digests (I hope :-)

After Cider Season is over I can drop it down to once a day, or leave it as is.
Personally I prefer the fast turnaround (and frequent distractions) provided by
the mailing list, but a few people voted with their feet, and I figured that no
one else would mind a digest format since they are used to the HBD.

So once more (Sorry to eat your bandwidth...)

To get on the list please do the following:
1) Send Mail to cider-request@ expo.lcs.mit.edu
2) Put the word Subscribe on the subject line

To submit to the list:
1) Send mail to cider at expo.lcs.mit.edu


etc, etc, etc....

 - Jay


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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 13:04:30 -0700
From: ez005142 at pollux.ucdavis.edu
Subject: Brewing salts (CaCl)


Howdy,

My terminal has no editor functions so please excuse the typo's.

I wrote in last week asking about obtaining CaCl.  Thanks to all out
there to told me where I could get the stuff.  Since no one responded
to the article yesterday about the ineffectiveness of CaCl fotr
removing carbonate and bicarboneate, I thought I'd demonstrate my
limited knowledge of chemistry, and perhaps embarass the hell out of
my self in the process.

In any case, here's my perception of how CaCl would remove carbonate
and bicarbonate without any ill effects.  I've got c;lost (close) to
700 ppm of carbonate in my water, and only about 75 ppm of Calcium.
In order to remove all that carbonate my idea was to first boil the
water.  This would convert the carbonate (I mean bicarbonate) into
carbonate.  Whil boiling I would add a sufficient about of CaCl.  The
Calcium would go into solution as an ion, in the presence of carbonate
\would precipitate out calcium carbontate.  Meanwhile, the cholirne
ion that is also dissolved in the water would become volatlile and
evaporeate into Cl2 in the air.  So I would have precipitated out all the
bicarbonate in my water with the calcium, and the clhlorine ions would
evaporate harmelessly into the air.  Problem solvesd, and not b (no bad)
tatste imparted on my water.

Please correct me if I am wrong about the above chemistry (but don't
correct my typo's please!).  Miller talks about similar reactions using
Calcium sulfate, but I don't want to add all that sulfate to my water
which already has too much to being with (begin with).

The final alternative is to buy bottled water.  What a drag!

Thanks to all you who have a better knowledge of the chemical world
than I do--I'm ust a simple biologist.  Hey, better living through chemisty
right?

Adios.

Chris Swingley		csswingley at ucdavis.edu
Institute ogf Ecology
University of California, Davis

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 10:34 CDT
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: Re: John Bull Extract

I used John Bull Dark Unhopped for a recent stout (sorry, I don't
have the recipe here, at work).  It tastes great, but on the boulder
(BORDER!) between a porter and a stout -- i.e. a little bit too
much "roasted, unmalted barley bite" for a stout.  I don't recall
how much roasted barley (if any) I added.  Nonetheless, I can recommend
John Bull Dark Unhopped malt extract.

Al.
korz at ihlpl.att.com

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 10:52 CDT
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: Re: Wild and crazy yeasts

Tom writes:
>	I was looking at some bottles of Lindeman's Belgian beer(Peche)
>and noticed that they had some sediment at the bottom of these
>bottles.  Does this sediment contain "wild yeast" and if so has 
>anyboby tried culturing these yeast?

Well, yes the sediment is yeast, but there's a great deal more to making
a Lambic than simply culturing the dregs of a bottle of Lambic.  There
are no less than three types of bacteria and three types of yeast that
conspire to make Lambic.  If you simply cultured the dregs, you would
get part of the flavor, but not all of it.  Get Jean-Xavier Guinard's
book "Lambic" from the AHA Classic Beer Series, if you are really serious
about making a pseudo-Lambic.  Call the AHA at (303)447-0816 to order.

Al.
korz at ihlpl.att.com

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 10:59 CDT
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: Priming with malt extract

Since corn sugar is 100% fermentable and dry malt extract is not,
you need to use more dry malt extract than you would corn sugar
when priming.  I use 20% more (by weight) dry malt extract than
corn sugar (based on what a recipe might say).
Al.

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 11:02 CDT
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: Re: gusher

Nils asks:
>Oh yeah, any idea why a beer would gush when opened warm but not when
>it's been chilled?

More CO2 dissolves in the beer when it's cold.  When it's warm, much of
the CO2 comes out of solution: GUSH!
Al.

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 12:13 CDT
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: Re: Guinness-style taps

They are available from Foxx 1-800-821-2254.  They also have Bass taps
also (which I understand are an obscure tap as well).
Al.

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 1991 17:16 EDT
From: BAUGHMANKR at CONRAD.APPSTATE.EDU
Subject: Thomas Jefferson, Fellow Homebrewer

Gary Varner, an old graduate school buddy, sent me this the other
day.  Thought I'd share it with the Digest.
- ------------- 
Today as I looked (for wholly unrelated reasons) through a copy of
_Thomas_Jefferson's_Farmbook_ (a facsimile of Jefferson's records
plus excerpts from many letters) I ran across some letters he
wrote regarding homebrewing.  They illustrate some of the eternal
verities of the malted beverage. 
 
 
1) You can never have too many good bottles on hand.
 
      "I am now engaged in brewing a year's supply of malt strong
      beer, which however I have no chance of saving but by
      a supply of quart jugs from you.  I recieved [sic] (I think)
      10 1/2 dozen and must ask the favor of 4 gross more [=576]
      for which Mr. Gibson will pay your bill."  (letter to
      Richard Randolph, written at Monticello, March 20, 1814)
 
 
2) Not everybody's a hophead. 
 
      "Our brewing of the last autumn is generally good, altho'
      not as much as that of the preceding year, the batch we are
      now using is excellent.  That which Peter Hemings did for
      Mr. Bankhead was good, and the brewing of corn which he did
      here after your departure would have been good, but that he
      spoiled it by over-hopping.  A little more experience
      however will make him a good brewer.  My absence in Bedford
      in the spring prevented our preparing some malt then, which
      I now regret."  (letter to Joseph Miller, written at
      Monticello, June 26, 1815)
 
 
3) Some people disagree with the German beer purity law.
 
      "During the revolutionary war, the brewers on James river
      used Indian corn almost exclusively of all other.  In
      my family brewing I have used wheat also as we do not raise
      barley." (letter to Joseph Coppinger, written at Monticello,
      April 25, 1815)
 
- ---------------

Kinney Baughman                    |  Beer is my business and
baughmankr at conrad.appstate.edu     |  I'm late for work.

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 12:47 CDT
From: korz at ihlpl.att.com
Subject: ice

With all due respect to Bill's calculations, I brew empirically.
Before I built my immersion chiller, I used to make 2 gallon
boils and add 1 gallon of partially frozen pre-boiled water
and two gallons of pre-boiled water from the fridge at about
40F.  After all that, my wort was at about 75F, at which time
I could safely splash it into the carboy and pitch.
Al.

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Date: Wed, 14 Aug 91 22:00:22 PDT
From: chad at mpl.UCSD.EDU (Chad Epifanio)
Subject: smorgasborge

No, I really don't care if the subject heading is spelled wrong.

Well, I certainly got a plethera of responces to the thermometer incident.  Yes, it was mercury.  Never fear, I was outside at the time.  Only a little bit got on my sandwich.  The rest splashed into the pool.

Putting that foolishness aside, I recall someone asking about hopped extracts awhile back.  Nobody posted the summary from Zymurgy, special hop issue '90.  So, for those of you who have no access to Zymurgy, here's a treat...

NAME		           DRY/SYRUP PKG.SIZE HBU/CAN HBU/LB
===============================================================================

EDME LTD.
Superbrew Gold Bitter		s	4	12	3
   "        "   Lager		s	4	8.5	2.1
   "      Stong Ale		s	4	12	3
Dogbolter			s	4	9	2.25
Arkells Bitter			s	4	15	3.75
   "    Lager			s	4	15	3.75
Superbrew Light			s	3.3	9	2.7
  "       Dark			s	3.3	9	2.7
  "       Pale Lager		s	3.3	7.5	2.3
  "       English Bitter	s	3.3	9	2.7
  "       Stout			s	4	9	2.25
Brewcraft Trad. Bitter		s	4	15	3.75
Brewcraft Pilsner Lager		s	4	11	2.75

PAINE'S PLC.
John Bull Hopped Light		s	3.3	9	2.7
John Bull Hopped Amber		s	3.3	10	3
John Bull Master Class Bitter	s	4	18	4.6
John Bull Master Class LAger	s	4	13.5	3.4
John Bull American Beer		s	4	4.5	1.4
John Bull American Lite		s	4	5.3	1.6

BREWING PRODUCTS LTD.
Ironmaster LAger		s	4	6	1.5
  "	Stout			s	4	10	2.5
  "	Pilsener		s	4	8	2
  "	Bitter			s	4	12	3
  " 	Brown Ale 		s	4	6-7	1.5-1.75
  "	Pale Ale		s	4	7	1.75
  "	Belgian Dark		s	4	10	2.5
  "	Canadian Ale		s	4	10	2.5
  "	Belgian Light		s	4	9	2.25
  "	Export Bitter		s	4	10	2.5
Telfords Nut Brown Ale		s	3.3	8	2.4
  "	Pilsner			s	3.3	8	2.4
  "	Stout			s	3.3	12	3.6
  "	Porter			s	3.3	7	2.1
  "	Wheat Beer		s	3.3	9	2.7
  "	LAger				3.3	9	2.7
  "	Export Ale			3.3	8.5	2.5
  "	Trad. Ale			3.3	10	3
  "	Extra Pale Ale			3.3	7	2.1


GLENBREW LTD
Light Hopped			s	3.3	8.5	2.6
Amber Hopped			s	3.3	11	3.3
Dark Hopped			s	3.3	8.5	2.6
Pilsner				s	3.3	7	2.1
Scotch Bitter			s	3.3	11	3.3
Scottish Lager			s	3.3	11	3.3
80/-Ale; Heavy			s	3.3	8.5	2.6
70/-Ale; SPecial		s	3.3	7	2.1
Brewmart Imp. Danish Pilsner	s	3.3	11	3.3
"	"     Dutch Lager	s	3.3	9	2.7
"	"     Spec. Pilsner 	s	3,3	12	3.6
"	"     Australian	s	3.3	8.5	2.6
"	"     Dry		s	3.3	9	2.7

SPECIALTY PRODUCTS INTERNATIONAL LTD.
Light				s	3.1	7.5	2.3
Amber				s	3.1	7.5	2.3
Dark				s	3.1	7.5	2.3
Pilsner				s	3.1	7.5	2.3
Octoberfest			s	3.1	7.5	2.3
BOck				s	3.1	7.5	2.3

MUNTON & FISON PLC
Hopped light			s	3.3	7.5	2.3
Hopped Amber			s	3.3	12.5	3.8
Hopped Dark			s	3.3	12.5	3.8
Old Ale				s	3.3	12.5	3.8
LAger				s	3.3	7.5	2.3
Premium				s	3.3	12.5	3.8
Stout				s	3.3	13.75	4.2
American Light			s	3.3	5.75	1.7
Pilsner				s	3.3	7.5	2.3
Canadian Ale			s	3.3	7.5	2.3
Spraymalt Hopped Light		d		n/a	2.3
  "	   "	  Amber		d		n/a	3.5

TOM CAXTON, LTD
Super System Bitter		s	3.3	8	2.4
 "	"    LAger		s	3.3	8	2.4
  "	"    Yorkshire		s	3.3	11	3.3
  "	"    Pilsner		s	3.3	9	2.7
  "	"    Export		s	3.3	11	2.4
Standard Bitter			s	3.3	11	2.4
  "	 Lager			s	3.3	8.5	2.6

Whew!!  Please excuse this if some one else has already posted something like this in the past.


End of HOMEBREW Digest #702, 08/15/91
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