HOMEBREW Digest #818 Thu 06 February 1992

Digest #817 Digest #819


	FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  re:KVASS (TSAMSEL)
  EXPLODING KEG LINE (Mike Zentner)
  Homebrew Digest ("Maximillian D. Robbins")
  How to Read HBD on your Macintosh, read on! (KIERAN O'CONNOR)
  The Yeast Book (Brian Smithey)
  Coffee (L M Stuntz)
  shipping via UPS (Jeanne Sova ASQNC-TAB-IS 5320)
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #817 (February 05, 1992) (Dan Hahn)
  YASSS (Yet Another Siphon Starting Suggestion) (Douglas DeMers)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #815 (February 03, 1992) (319)395-8220"
  Kvass, BavariaREAD/NEW (radavfs)
  Bleach sanitizing revisited (Bob Jones)
  CO2 milage (korz)
  Re: Kvass, anyone? (korz)
  Re: B.A.B.O. & NA Beer from Micah Millsapw (Richard Stueven)
  Pressure in CO2 Tanks (Mike Fertsch)
  Barlywine Questions (A Nelligan)
  sanitazation (A Nelligan)
  banana esters (Brett Shorten)
  NA Beer - the Schmidling Method (Jean Hunter)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1992 7:03:25 -0500 (EST) From: TSAMSEL at ISDRES.ER.USGS.GOV Subject: re:KVASS I thought kvass (or kumiss) was made of fermented mare's milk. How would one get alcohol from that? Ted Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 09:13:17 -0500 From: zentner at ecn.purdue.edu (Mike Zentner) Subject: EXPLODING KEG LINE This got me to remembering something. I had wondered how long will it be before some frat guys try this trick I saw on an episode of MacGyver. Anyone know what I'm talking about? He made a long tube, put a keg of beer at one end. The keg had a bung on the bottom. He lit a fire at the bottom of the keg, causing the thing to get hot, shoot the bung, then go firing out the other end of the big tube to shoot down a door. I have doubts about this working as fast or as violently as it did on tv, but an interesting experiment I'd think. MIke Zentner zentner at ecn.purdue.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 09:20:18 EST From: "Maximillian D. Robbins" <ROBBINSM%GUVM.bitnet at VTVM2.CC.VT.EDU> Subject: Homebrew Digest Information Systems Can anyone give me a recipe for Chimmay Trappiste ale? Please send a note to me at Robbinsm at guvm.georgetown.edu Thanks in advance. In-Reply-To: note of 02/05/92 03:37 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1992 10:14 EDT From: KIERAN O'CONNOR <OCONNOR%SNYCORVA.bitnet at CUNYVM.CUNY.EDU> Subject: How to Read HBD on your Macintosh, read on! Hi folks, I fellow I met through the 'net has created a HyperCard stack for those who read the HBD and would like to read it on their Mac instead on on their mainframe. A few detailsd as to how this works: 1) You download as many HBD's as you want to your Mac. 2) You run the "Homebrew Browser" and import as many HBD's into the stack 3) You then will be presented with 2 screens, a left one with message headers, and a right one with the messages. 4) You can scroll on either side, but the cool part is that if you scroll through the message headers and click on one in the left window, the right window will pull up the associated message. 5) If you hold down the option key while selecting a message header--you will move to the message, and copy the message to a black card (for replying). 6) If you prefer to look throught a month's worth of HBD's, this will save a ton of time. 7) It's only $5. OK. I'm just the point man on this, I didn't write it, nor am I getting anything out of it--it will be ready within the week, and as soon as I can figure it out, I'll put it into the HBD archives. For now, if you want a copy, send me a message with the message header "I want a brew browser", with your e-mail address included. Ill set up a distribution file, and Ill send you one. Ill also re-post to HBD when I send out. Any questions, e-mail me. Kieran O'Connor oconnor at snycorva.bitnet Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 08:23:37 MST From: smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM (Brian Smithey) Subject: The Yeast Book My latest Wyeast package (dated Jan 7 '92) has a new package design, and on the back it mentions "The Yeast Book" from Wyeast. Has anybody seen this book yet? Didn't Jeff Frane mention a while back that he was working on a book with Dave Logsdon? Jeff, is this the book, and is it finished/available? If anybody has seen this book I'd appreciate seeing a short review or table-of-contents-like report posted here. Thanks, Brian - -- Brian Smithey / Sun Microsystems / Colorado Springs, CO smithey at rmtc.Central.Sun.COM Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 08:54:45 -0800 From: lms at iscnvx.lmsc.lockheed.com (L M Stuntz) Subject: Coffee About adding coffee to stout: For Xmas my wife got me a "Coffee Toddy" - it makes coffee with cold water and claims no boiling means no oil/acid released from the coffee. Basically it's a bucket with a hole in the bottom that you put a cork in from the outside. A filter fits over the hole inside - the filter is a half inch thick fiberous thing. You add about a pound of ground coffee to a gallon of cold water and let it sit for a day. Pull the cork out over a container and voila! Liquid instant coffee. This stuff is VERY strong - you add water like 4:1 to make drinkable coffee. I don't know the chemistry behind it but I believe there is less acid in this than regular coffee it doesn't upset my stomach at all. And it tastes smoother - not always what I want in coffee but I would like it in beer. Seems like this would be perfect for adding to a stout. I haven't tried it yet but I'm going to. Larry Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 29 Jan 92 11:20:50 EST From: Jeanne Sova ASQNC-TAB-IS 5320 <jsova at APG-9.APG.ARMY.MIL> Subject: shipping via UPS from John Freeman: Well, I hate to do bring this up again, but how does one ship beer? I just came from my unfriendly local UPS Center where I was told "We don't ship alcohol of any kind". The manager gave me the same story. First, they tried to tell me it was a law. When I pointed out that it wasn't a law, and asked him to show me a written policy, then he said he could refuse my package for any reason. After more BS, he said he was sorry he couldn't help me. I doubt his sincerity. sorry if this has been addressed and finished already, but i'm kinda behind in my reading. i hate it when i don't have time for my fun stuff at work! anyway, i was going to bring this up during the last thread of this, but everyone seemed to answer the questions, but this time i'm really curious. john, could you tell me where it was you were told this, such as which store? my best friend and another really good friend both work in upper level UPS. i asked them what UPS's policy was on shipping beer/alcohol/homebrew. they both assured me UPS would ship it. it is NOT illegal. they said the only thing to worry about would be wrapping it properly to make sure it doesn't break and you might want to send it as a perishable item to prevent spoilage. they were a little concerned that UPS people were refusing to send it. interesting. jeanne Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 12:58:33 -0500 From: danhahn at ecn.purdue.edu (Dan Hahn) Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #817 (February 05, 1992) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 11:03 PST From: dougd at uts.amdahl.com (Douglas DeMers) Subject: YASSS (Yet Another Siphon Starting Suggestion) (Mea culpa! I first sent this to homebrew-request@ hpfcmi.fc.hp.com - hope it doesn't appear twice...) Recently, there have been many interesting and creative :-) as well as practical suggestions for starting siphons, but nobody has mentioned the technique I now use. Now that I have the 1.5(?)" blowoff tube, I no longer need my 3/8" blowoff tube as a blowoff tube. I sanitize the blowoff tube (and tip that used to go into the stopper) the same time I sanitize the rest of the siphon tubing. When I need to start my siphon, I stick the blowoff tube tip inside the end of the siphon hose - also conveniently 3/8" - and suck on the end of the blowoff tube. Once the siphon is started, I clamp off the tube above the blowoff tube coupling and disconnect the two pieces of tubing. Since the "first flow" through the siphon clears the residual chlorine bleach, I would have discarded it anyway. I can use this sample for gravity readings and taste-check. With this method, my mouth never touches the "real" siphon hose. If, perchance, the siphon doesn't start the first time - no big deal. Suck on the end again. I never disconnect the two hoses until I'm sure the siphon is going. It works for me. Your mileage may vary. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1992 14:35 CDT From: "TERRY O'DEA ROCKWELL INTERNATIONAL (319)395-8220" Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #815 (February 03, 1992) info beer-l info ? list beer Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 05 Feb 1992 16:31:23 EST From: radavfs at ube.ub.umd.edu Subject: Kvass, BavariaREAD/NEW >John B writes: That's not quite it. Back some 170 years plus when the brewery was founded, this part of Germany belonged to the Kingdom of Bavaria. They tried to change the name to something more regional in the early 1980's, but the locals were aghast that their beer heritage was being tampered with (that and sales dropped dramatically :-). >I would suggest to any student of German history that they take a >look at a map of Germany in the 18th century to illustrate the strange sprawl >of the hundreds of German states - it really is a mosaic! Thanks for the >info, John! :) Then, Fritz Keinert <keinert at iastate.edu> writes: >A friend of mine of Lithuanian descent told me about a drink they make >there for special occasions, based on fermented rye bread. Some time >later, I checked out a Russian cookbook from the library, and they >also mentioned a drink called "kvass" based on fermented bread. I >assume they were talking about the same thing. The cookbook did not >give any details. >Does anybody know more about this? Only that this drink is immensely popular in the summertime in Russia! I visited Moscow in the summer of 1984, and was surprised to see people lined up at (sometimes horse-drawn) tank-cars, similar to those used to transport water on farms. The cars said KBAC (i.e. Kvass in Cyrillic) and I didn't find out until later what it was - it is indeed some sort of fermented bread drink. One person tried it and was underwhelmed. I'll have to wait until I get back there...:) Best, Volker Stewart RADAVFS at UBE.UB.UMD.EDU Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1992 15:33 PDT From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov> Subject: Bleach sanitizing revisited After a private email conversation with George Fix concerning my bleach sanitizing concentrations I made another call to my contact at Clorox. The microbiologist there reconfirmed that 50-200ppm of chlorine was the best concentration for sanitizing. The key word here is "CHLORINE". She said contact time on the order of a few minutes was adequate for a good kill if the vessel was cleaned first with a good detergent. My original post on bleach concentrations was based on using the stock bleach solution and then diluting to the working concentrations. No one ever said if the recommended concentrations were stock bleach or the free available chlorine in the bleach. When one takes the standard stock bleach solution which is 25000ppm chlorine and then dilutes it in 5 gals of water to obtain the proper concentration for sanitizing, the quantities are quite different from my original post. The new values look like this... Bleach Chlorine in Residue in final added 5 gal of water beer _____ _____________ _____________ 2T 40ppm .01ppm 1/2C 160ppm .04ppm 5 oz 200ppm .05ppm 1C 320ppm .08ppm The above residues were calculated based on 1t of sanitizing solution being diluted with 5 gals of beer. The dilution factor is 3855. The figures look even better now. So 1/2C or 5 oz. of stock bleach solution seems about right to me for sanitizing in 5 gals. of water. 2T or 1 oz. of bleach in 1 gal of water will give 200ppm chlorine. I also ask about dumping these concentrations into septic tanks and she didn't seem to think it would be a problem. Bob Jones Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 17:54 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: CO2 milage I use a 20# CO2 tank and 5gallon Cornelius Kegs (soda). The last two tanks of CO2 lasted me about 8 batches each -- but I may have had a leak. I use a LOT of CO2 for non-dispensing and about half those batches were primed and naturally carbonated, half force carbonated. When I say a LOT of CO2 for non-dispensing, I mean: forcing sanitizing solution out of the keg, forcing out rinse water and/or rinse industrial beer (several of the batches), purging kegs of air before siphoning into them, etc. I suspected a leak and tightened everything down again (I have a 4-product setup -- LOTS of fittings, hoses, clamps, etc.). After that, I checked all the possible leak locations with a little dishwashing liquid in water -- no leaks. Too bad I did not check before tightening. I think Ken's approximation of 60 kegs for a 5 lb tank may be high, though. It depends on how much of a leak I had -- I hope Ken's right. Al. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 18:19 CST From: korz at ihlpl.att.com Subject: Re: Kvass, anyone? Fritz writes: >A friend of mine of Lithuanian descent told me about a drink they make >there for special occasions, based on fermented rye bread. Some time >later, I checked out a Russian cookbook from the library, and they >also mentioned a drink called "kvass" based on fermented bread. There are two Lithuanian drinks that I know of, but I'm not sure about whether they are both fermented or not. I've been meaning to ask my grandmother about this, but keep putting it off. One is called "gira," which I know is made from rye bread, but I don't know if it is fermented -- my grandmother used to give us kids some, but if it sat around longer it... hmmm? Another is called "pieninis," which is (I believe) made from milk (pienas == milk)! I know pieninis is fermented. I've got to get these recipes -- if they are truly brews, how could a homebrewer of 100% Lithuanian descent let their family recipes be lost?! Al (Algis). Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 17:29:01 PST From: Richard.Stueven at Corp.Sun.COM (Richard Stueven) Subject: Re: B.A.B.O. & NA Beer from Micah Millsapw Micah Millspaw writes: > I would like to metion that the Bay area brewoff on January >25th went nicely. There were over 150 entries. there also were some >great prizes,ribbons ,cash,hops etc. The judges ( myself included) >were provided with some great food and beer after the event. In all >it was a lot of fun. Micah is too modest. He neglects to mention that he won one of those great prizes himself, as did another (in)famous HBD contributor, CR Saikley. I wish I could remember their categories...maybe they'll enlighten us? gak Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 4 Feb 92 15:06 EST From: Mike Fertsch <FERTSCH at adc1.adc.ray.com> Subject: Pressure in CO2 Tanks Key Key makes some calculations about keg pressure, and extrapolates to amount of gas in the tank: >My 5lb tank has gone from 800PSIg to 760PSIg. It is grossly >unfair to say that each keg cost 20PSI but using that as another outside >approximation shows the tank's good for 35-40 kegs The problem with these calculations is that CO2 tanks are filled with liquid CO2, not gas. The gauge simply measures the pressure of the gas above the liquid, not the quanity of CO2 in the tank. As gas is compressed, it reaches a point where the the gas starts condensing into a liquid. As more an more gas is put in the tank, the pressure stays the same, but more liquid 'gas' collects. The gauge measures the pressure where the gas condenses, which is a function of temperature. The gauge is a good measure of tank temperature, rather than the quantity of gas. As a tank is emptied, the pressure stays the same until all the liquid CO2 evaporates, then the pressure drops quickly. Mike Fertsch reply to mikef at synchro.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 09:13:22 EST From: anelliga at hamlet.Prime.COM (A Nelligan) Subject: Barlywine Questions In answer to Greg's Barlywine issue: We also made concocted a barleywine out of TCJOHB. Our recipe looked something like this: 2 cans Munton & Fison Light Malt Extract 2 lbs Munton a& Fison light dried malt extract 1/4 lb domino light brown sugar 3 1/2 ox fuggles hops another 1/2 oz fuggles for finishing 2 pkg Munton & Fison ale yeast. We did a single stage fermentation, so I can't answer your question about how long to age in secondary. We gave the finishing hops 10 minutes. As far as conditioning in bottles-- well, it's been 14 months now and it keeps getting better. At 2 months it was OK, but cloudy enough that we thought we should have used gypsum. It was also VERY sweet, but also very hoppy and quite smooth. By 9 months it was clear, but quite heavy and we thought maybe less sugar. Last week it had gotten considerably drier and VERY clear. It's really good now, so I don't know if it'll last long enough for me to give you an update later. Good luck, Ann Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 5 Feb 92 08:59:09 EST From: anelliga at hamlet.Prime.COM (A Nelligan) Subject: sanitazation Hi Volker-- I'm new to the digest too, so if this has been disucssed I missed it just as you did. So I'll dive right in. I use B-Brite to sanitize my bottles. I mix it up by the gallon and use and re-use and re-use it. All that siphoning back into the storage bottles is a handy way to sanitize hoses. So far I haven't had any problems. I also use tap water to rinse. I live in greater Boston and have Quabbin Reservoir water-I have no idea of the bacterial content of the water but I've had no problems with that either. Ann Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 6 Feb 92 16:52:15 EST From: Brett Shorten <s05bas at wampyr.cc.uow.edu.au> Subject: banana esters I noted with interest the brief recent thread on banana aromas during fermentation, as I recently experienced the same thing with a batch of brown ale (extract) fermented with Wyeast 1098 London ale yeast. It seems as though high fermentation temperatures (75-80f) were probably the cause in this case. What the recent thread did not seem to indicate, however, is what effect this is likely to have on the taste of my ale. I am not even sure whether it is likely to be positive or negative. Could someone enlighten me on this point, please? Return to table of contents
Date: Thu, 06 Feb 92 00:56:49 EST From: Jean Hunter <MS3Y at CORNELLA.cit.cornell.edu> Subject: NA Beer - the Schmidling Method Jack and I have been corresponding off-net about NA beer; he now has my mailing address but has suggested that I repeat his experiment with a 1-gal batch and analyze my own samples rather than analyzing his samples. On the digest, on the subject of my lab analyzing his samples, he writes: > However, upon further consideration, it seems not only a waste of energy > but hardly in the true "scientific tradition". After all, what is to > prevent me from re-bottling a can each, of Old Style and Kingsbury? Nothing, Jack, except that in a scientific collaboration like the one I proposed, one of the traditions is that I trust you and you trust me. As a professional researcher and research mentor, I take scientific integrity very seriously, and I can't <g> or RDW when the joke is about the possibility of anybody's research fraud taking place in my lab. Now if Jack doesn't trust the HPLC, that is perfectly understandable, and we should definitely run the Old Style and Kingsbury's as experimental controls along with some Schmidling Method NA Beer. Thanks also to other HBD'ers for helpful comments via e-mail. Cheers - Jean Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #818, 02/06/92