HOMEBREW Digest #864 Wed 15 April 1992

Digest #863 Digest #865

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  BREWING, SPENT GRAIN (Jack Schmidling)
  Question for Evening Brewers, Morning Rackers (Dale Veeneman)
  Wyeast Belgian (questions) (TSAMSEL)
  Better Late Than Never? (ZLPAJGN)
  irish moss (wampus)
  extract pale ale recipes (Tony Babinec)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #863 (April 14, 1992) (Daniel Paul Checkman)
  The Beer Game (Tony Babinec)
  Re: Locusts for Brewing in Illinois ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Jack (Ken Johnson)
  Comparitive prices for keg systems. ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  Whoops, double Whoops! ("DRCV06::GRAHAM")
  Priming sugar (Killer head!) (Douglas DeMers)
  re: Stuck ferment? (Mike_Mahler)
  Pale Ale Request... Followup (Steve Davis)
  Cambridge Brewing Co. review (Bruce Mueller)
  grain vs. extract (florianb)
  Stuck ferment? (Sterling Udell)
  Reply to "Stuck Ferment?" (ALTIMARI)
  Simpler mashing system? (Bob Fozard)
  Brew Club E-Mail Contact Service (Stephen Russell)

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 21:23 CDT From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling) Subject: BREWING, SPENT GRAIN To: Homebrew Digest Fm: Jack Schmidling >From: matth at bedford.progress.COM >Subject: Disposing of 10 pounds of spent grain >While putting the garins into the disposal might seem like a bad idea, in *most* places it's not a bad idea. The drain pipe from the sink goes to the same place as the rest of the house, meaning a treatment plant. It's far better for the environment (since that appears to be the issue here) to have it go there than to: Keep in mind that treatment plants are just that. They are an effort at best to remove some of the waste but a good deal still gets through. Furthermore, they are very expensive to operate and you are asking others to pay for your irresponsibility. Finally, in many cities and Chicago in particular, whenever there is a heavy rainfall, the whole system is bipassed and the garbage disposals go directly into the river system. >> 1) Put it in a garbage can > Where it will most likely end up in a landfill where it could take years to decompose. All the landfill does is raise the elevation of the landscape. It does not matter from a pollution point of view if the grain never decomposes if it is in a landfill. >Going through the treatment plant will take days, not years. That's only because it is a compromise. If it goes through the sewer system, some of it WILL end un in the water system. >> 2) Find a friend with a garden. > I like this idea, but 10 pounds is an awful lot when you consider that it should be mixed with other stuff (grass cuttings, peat moss)... You get a fairly large pile. It does not have to be mixed with anything. If simply dumped on a pile, it will disappear within a few months in warm weather. >> 3) Find an empty lot. > I'm going to just pretend this isn't on the list Considering #2 above, this is far more benign than the garbage disposal. >From: Rob Nelson <70206.1316 at compuserve.com> >Seriously, I deeply and sincerely thank those who straightend me out. My spent grains will now be adding dietary fiber to some local hogs. I find it most telling, that you, the admitted villian, took the advice in the proper spirit but the hate mail keeps flooding in from the lurkers. >I soak some fine commercial beer bottles in an ammonia solution, scrape off the label, re-cap the bottle with a generic cap and write a cryptic code on the cap..... I sent a McEwans, an Anchor Steam, a Budweiser and a Sierra Nevada Stout to the AHA nationals this year. I'll see you in the winner's circle. This is quite funny BUT I have often wondered how many people have actually done just that and won. What is to prevent it? js Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 08:38:54 EST From: Dale Veeneman <dev1 at gte.com> Subject: Question for Evening Brewers, Morning Rackers For all you who brew in the evening, then let things settle out overnight before racking in the morning: when do you pitch - in the evening after things are cooled or in the morning after racking? Since the idea is to get the trub away from the fermenting yeast, morning would be better(?); but is evening pitched yeast at a stage after 8-10 hours that the fermentation is harmed by the presence of trub? The wort temperature would be, say, 60 degrees and have approximately 24 hour lag time. Thanks, Dale Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 10:08:34 -0400 (EDT) From: TSAMSEL at ISDRES.ER.USGS.GOV Subject: Wyeast Belgian (questions) Is this a single yeast strain or what? I did a second pitch from my first batch and had a REAL slow start. I also saw very different textures on the surface of the wort. I don't think it's an infection, but it looked like different critters to me. Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 09:31 CDT From: ZLPAJGN%LUCCPUA.bitnet at UICVM.UIC.EDU Subject: Better Late Than Never? Dear Brewers, I suppose it's better to learn a lesson later rather than not at all! The question now is whether or not its's better to have a fermentation start later than not at all - which is the present case with my latest batch of spruce / ginger lager: (From yesterday's post) "... And, herein lies the problem: it's just sitting there! There's been NO activity whatsoever - no kreausen, no bubbles through the lock... All's quiet on the yeastern front, so to speak. Well, almost. This morning (Mon.) there was slooowww activity through the lock, but no Kreausen forming, nor bubbles in the wort." I guess I spoke too soon, 'cuz the fermentation was in full swing by yesterday afternoon! If the lock had a whistle in it, it'd've been whistling Dixie three octaves too high! The kreausen's risen to about 1 1/2 inch, and all seems to be taking off well enough! I guess in this field it's more accurate to say that I've got foam on my face (rather than egg :-) ), but I'll look at this as a learning experience. I suspect that beginners all too often see their yeast as that majic "stuff" which just gets the ball rolling, unaware of, or even neglecting the fact that yeasts are living organisms - maybe even with their own "personalities." At the very least, now I know that each pitching will behave differently; that each wort will brew in a unique way. Maybe THIS is what being a "real homebrewer" is all about? Not worrying, John ps - I hear the the popularity of "high-water" pants has made a recent comeback here in Chicago!! ;-) Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 09:37:15 CST From: wampus <C05705DA at WUVMD.Wustl.Edu> Subject: irish moss I have been playing around with pale ales for a little while; and, there appears to be absolutely no transparency what-so-ever, still tastes good however. I've been adding irish moss; but, it appeares to make no difference. I add the moss ten minutes before the end of the boil. Is there something I'm not doing or doing incorrectly? Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 10:29:05 CDT From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: extract pale ale recipes Steve Davis is looking for pale ale recipes. The first beer I brewed was a pale ale, and every 4 or 5 beers I brewed since then was probably a pale ale! It's a great style. Here are two recipes, assuming that you are an extract brewer and have access to good ingredients. After all, good recipe + good ingredients + good process = good beer! The English Pale Ale will be somewhat in the style of Bass Ale, while the American Pale Ale will be somewhat in the style of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale or Anchor Liberty Ale. English Pale Ale 4.5 pounds unhopped light dry malt extract 0.5 pounds dark crystal malt 0.5 pounds dark brown sugar 1 ounces English Kent Goldings 60 minutes before end of boil 0.5 ounces Fuggles 60 minutes before end of boil 0.5 ounces Fuggles 30 minutes before end of boil 0.5 ounces English Kent Goldings 10 minutes before end of boil 0.5 ounces English Kent Goldings 2 minutes before end of boil dry Whitbred Ale or Munton-Fison ale yeast or "Brewer's Choice" Wyeast "London" or "British" or "Irish" ale 1 teaspoon gypsum or "Burton Salts" added to boil water Notice that the recipe calls for unhopped, light, dry malt extract. Use unhopped extract because you're going to add your own hops. Use light-colored extract because you're going to get some color from the crystal malt. Use dry malt because you can measure it out, unlike syrups. The crystal malt should be "cracked." Your homebrew supply store can do that for you. Steep the crystal malt for 30 minutes in your water at 150 degrees F. Then strain the husks out, bring the water to boil, add the gypsum or salt, and add the dry malt. After the wort has been boiling for 10 minutes, add the first hops and follow the hop schedule indicated above. Hops are English hops. Brown sugar can be added as soon as the boil starts. If you use dry packaged yeast, use the above brands. Others are lousy! Or, if you have access to Wyeast, use any of the above yeasts. If you like the recipe, vary only the yeast, and you get a somewhat different beer next time! Whitbred dry yeast and Wyeast "British" ale are the same yeast. American Pale Ale 5 pounds unhopped light dry malt extract 0.5 pounds dark crystal malt 1 ounce Cascade hops 60 minutes before end of boil 0.5 ounces Cascade hops 30 minutes before end of boil 0.5 ounces Cascade hops 10 minutes before end of boil 0.5 - 1 ounces Cascade hops "dry hopped" Wyeast "American" Ale (this is Sierra Nevada's yeast!) "Dry hopping" consists of adding hops not to the boil but after boil and especially after fermentation. When your beer is done fermenting, you must rack it into a second sanitized vessel, preferably a glass carboy for which you have a fermentation lock. The beer and the hops are both added to that second vessel, and the beer is left from 1 to 3 weeks in the vessel. It isn't fermenting, but it's picking up flavors from the hops. If you don't want to do this, then instead of dry-hopping, add that last hop addition 2 minutes until end of boil. When you turn the flame off, let the beer sit with the lid on for 20 minutes before chilling it and racking it into the fermenter. But, I recommend that you try dry hopping sooner or later, as it adds flavor and aroma that is just right for this beer! English Pale Ale also benefits from dry hopping. Happy brewing! Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 10:33:35 -0500 From: Daniel Paul Checkman <dpc47852 at uxa.cso.uiuc.edu> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #863 (April 14, 1992) Back to locust beer: I was talking about the locust trees, not the insects!!!!! Seriously, does anyone know a way to make locust beer or know the source that I was referring to last time. Prethanks, Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 11:19:05 CDT From: tony at spss.com (Tony Babinec) Subject: The Beer Game Are you thinking of opening a brewery? Think again. This is the sobering advice from Professor John Sterman of MIT, who has created the Beer game. The game is designed to illustrate how and why managers invariably go wrong in making decisions in the corporate world. Excerpts follow from a brief mention in the April 1992 OR/MS today: The result of scientific analyses of thousands of real firms by MIT computers, the Beer game mimics the way companies operate based on a simulated example, in this case a beer factory, distributor and retailer. A member of TIMS (The Institute of Management Science), Sterman and the Beer game were featured in the lead story of the Jan. 18, 1992 business section of The Atlanta Journal and Constitution. The game can be played as a board game or on a computer. An analysis of thousands of games indicates that all "players" tend to overreact at approximately the same time, either by ordering too much or too little inventory. "People who run businesses--whether geniuses or morons--tend to make the same kinds of mistakes when faced with similar decisions in similar circumstances. Put another way, of the 85,000-odd firms that went belly-up last year, even a guru like Lee Iacocca probably couldn't have saved very many" "Many businesses, perhaps all, are all but predestined to fail. This is why the average life span of a big corporation is only 40 years, why one-third of 1970's Fortune 500 companies weren't on the list in 1983, and why three times as many companies as go bankrupt just close up because owners don't make enough profits." Quotes are credited to the AJC writer, whose name is listed as Hendrick. Return to table of contents
Date: 14 April 1992 10:27:14 CDT From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Re: Locusts for Brewing in Illinois Here in Illinois, the large swarms of locusts come only once every 17 years, and last year was their year. Although I did not try any myself, I understand they were quite tasty deep fried and served with a light creamy dill sauce - similar to a smaller size softshell crab. Best when accompanied by a nice hoppy pale ale. But *IN* the beer?!?!?!? ;} ;} ;} Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 09:38:23 PDT From: kjohnson at argon.berkeley.edu (Ken Johnson) Subject: Jack Hey Jack. I still can't send email to your address, because I can't find a node that knows your machine. Please send me another copy of that file, because I accidentally erased the old one. Thanks kj Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Apr 92 11:53:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: Comparitive prices for keg systems. Here are some comparative prices for kegging systems I did after my post about St. Patrick's of Texas. All systems include a five gallon Stainless soda keg, (reconditioned unless otherwise noted), a five pound co2 tank, two gauge regulator with check valve and gas line. Liquid line with hand held faucet and quick disconnects on all lines. St. Patrick's of Texas, (with reconditioned regulator), $140. Alternative Beverage, $200. Beer & Wine Hobby, $229. Great Fermentations of Marin, (used keg), $183.75. Great Fermentations of Santa Rosa, (New keg, no co2 tank), $155. Henessee Homebrew, (new keg), $250. The Brewery, (5 gal. Beer Ball, plastic), $210. The Homebrewery, $200. The Modern Brewer, (1 gauge reg.), $180. American Brewmaster, $177. Jaspers Homebrew Supply, $182. F.H. Steinbert & Co., (new keg), $202.75. Williams, $249. (Maybe less, it's hard to tell from the catalog.) Well, those are all of the places I could call for free, or nearly so. Looks like there is a great difference between systems, makes it pay to shop around. - Dan Return to table of contents
Date: 14 Apr 92 11:22:00 EDT From: "DRCV06::GRAHAM" <graham%drcv06.decnet at drcvax.af.mil> Subject: Whoops, double Whoops! The correct phone number for St. Patrick's of Texas is 512 832-9045, NOT 532. My apologies, both to you and the poor lady who got some pho ne calls. Now, the second whoops. I said in my post about the very inexpensive kegging system from St. Patrick's that I'm going to get rid of my Grolsch bottles. I have received a flood of responses. I'm so sorry, I'm blind and can't really deal with shipping. Making beer is hard enough! I'll gladly sell them, (cheap) to someone here in New England who can come to pick them up. I already have one New England response, whom I'll make the offer to directly. Other N.E. interests, mail me and if you're the lucky one, (read: if this other gentleperson isn't interested), I'll contact you directly. Sorry for the confusion. Dan Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 10:13 PDT From: dougd at uts.amdahl.com (Douglas DeMers) Subject: Priming sugar (Killer head!) In Homebrew Digest #863, Al (korz at ihlpl.att.com) writes: >Jake asks about a beer which overcarbonates after a while. >There are three common causes for beer to overcarbonate: >1. bottling too soon, >2. infection, and >3. too much priming sugar. I agree. Regarding point #3, you go on to say: > [...] If you are using corn sugar for >priming, you should probably not use more than 1 cup. In my experience, 1 cup of corn sugar to prime a 5 gallon batch is far too much. When I used 1 cup priming sugar I got no gushers but significant amounts of foam. In fact, I routinely had to pour a 12 oz. bottle into a half-gallon glass pitcher which would be foam right to the top. Several minutes later the foam subsides, and the beer can be poured off. As an experiment once, by carefully and slowly pouring the bottle down the side of the glass, I could pour the entire bottle without causing a foam up. I do not like my beer highly carbonated, and resorted to (carefully) stirring the beer with a spoon until the carbonation level dropped to (what I considered) a drinkable level. I've since cut back to 1/2 - 3/4 cup of corn sugar (depending on the style) or (recently) gyle leftover from the start of the batch. After racking into my primary fermenter, I run the "dregs" through a strainer into another container. I let this settle out, and pour the gyle into quart jars which I "can" in a water bath canner. I use 1 - 1 1/2 quarts of the canned gyle in place of corn sugar solution for priming when it comes time to bottle. I've also heard tell that the use of dry yeast also tends to produce overcarbonation, but I have no interest in trying an experiment to find out. - -- Douglas DeMers, | (408-746-8546) | dougd at uts.amdahl.com Amdahl Corporation | | {sun,uunet}!amdahl!dougd [It should be obvious that the opinions above are mine, not Amdahl's.] [ Amdahl makes computers, not beer. ] Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 9:21 EDT From: Mike_Mahler at vos.stratus.com Subject: re: Stuck ferment? >I brewed a pale ale using M&F extra light extract and Whitbread ale >yeast Saturday night and have it in a 7 gallon plastic primary with a >blowoff tube. By last night the ferment appeared to be stuck because >there was no more bubbling in the blowoff. When I opened it this >morning there was about a 1 inch head of krausen (sp?) on top. A few >minutes after closing it, I heard the plastic lid flex and then it >started bubbling away again for a few minutes before stopping. You've got leaks around the edges. I have the same problem and have solved it by putting Saran wrap around the edge before putting the lid on. Works like a charm. Michael Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 15:43:27 GMT-0500 From: sdavis at laforge.ksc.nasa.gov (Steve Davis) Subject: Pale Ale Request... Followup My request for India Pale Ale recipes in HBD#863 generated _tons_ of mail; thanks to everyone who responded. Obviously, I'd rather not post all of these to the list... if anyone would like to see the responses, I'd be happy to mail you a copy. Just send me an email, and be sure to include an internet address. Regards, Steve Davis Kennedy Space Center, FL internet: sdavis at laforge.ksc.nasa.gov Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 1992 13:10 PDT From: Bob Jones <BJONES at NOVA.llnl.gov> I'm making a Romulan Ale. Unfortunatly I am forced to use some less than authentic ingredients. It seems the Rihannsu make their drink from a mixture of distilled ale blended with regular ale, the grain base is their version of wheat (grown on ch'Havran) and its blue. My effort is a low hopped wheat wine. The question I have is the blue colour. I have made in the past a blue cream soda using blue food colouring. This tended to cause the drinker to have a blue mouth and also to discolour the lines in my draft system and it left a flavour residue in the lines. Anyone know of a source of blue colour that safe to drink in doesn't exhibit the above mentioned problems. Thanks Micah Millspaw 4/13/92 Return to table of contents
Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 10:01:11 MDT From: malone at Scapa.CS.UWyo.Edu ( Patrick K. Malone ) I just subscribed to this list this weekend. I saw all the talk about mead brewing. I am a novice home brewer who is thinking about trying to brew some mead. Could someone please send me (or post) an easy, detailed mead recipe. Thanks. Patrick K Malone Sys Admin EORI/ISC University of Wyoming malone at tomatin.uwyo.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 13:17:46 PDT From: Bruce Mueller <mueller at sdd.hp.com> Subject: Cambridge Brewing Co. review Well, a couple weeks ago I was in Boston. I'd read the previous reviews of the Cambridge and Commonwealth breweries. I only had time to visit the former. It is located in Kendall Sq., at the corner of Hampshire and Portland, next to a Thai restaurant. I tried the Tall Tale Pale Ale, which was good and fresh, well hopped (at least flavored--I had a cold, couldn't smell anything) and the Amber, which was OK. The food is quite good. I had grilled chicken, with rojo and negro salsas (the former milder), black beans, rice, tomato/cucumber salad and corn- bread. The last was fair--dry. For those who don't live near indigenous Mexican populations (I'm in San Diego), this is GOOD Mexican food. The Back Bay Hilton has a decent beer bar, with many micros in bottles and maybe four on tap. Low key. Adios! Bruce Mueller Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 13:02:46 PDT From: florianb at chip.cna.tek.com Subject: grain vs. extract A few HBD's back, some submitters were discussing all-grain vs. extract brewing and commented on the amount of work involved. I, like many others, started out with extract brewing while renting an apartment in Bend, Oregon. Using extract was very convenient since we had a small kitchen. However, I was continually disappointed with the reproducibility and the lack of variety (not to mention cost) of the brews I produced. For a long time I was hesitant to go "all-grain" since I thought it would be more work and require lots of expensive equipment. I was wrong on both accounts. I started all-grain brewing after sampling some home brew made by my brother-in-law, who had begun home brewing about 15 years ago and has never brewed using extracts. I was so impressed by the flavor of the beer that I determined to go all-grain as soon as possible. I asked my wife for a larger boiler for my birthday, then began assembling the other things I needed based on what my brother-in-law showed me. It is not expensive to go all-grain. It only takes a larger boiler (I use a big porcelain pot), a picnic cooler, some length of 1/2" copper tubing, a smaller pot for stovetop mashing, and that's it. It is not much more time consuming. I start at about 2pm on Sunday, and I'm done by 7 pm on Sunday. Last week, I started a batch of wheat beer at 2 pm and was done by 6 pm. Most of the time during that period was spent standing around waiting. So I played with my kids, worked on the deck, drank coffee, and watched Star Trek. Big deal. If you find that all-grain takes more time for some reasons, then there are ways to reduce other parts of the brewing process. Like start kegging instead of bottling. Use a wort chiller. Make a starter culture so there is little lag time. And the time required in mashing and sparging can itself be reduced. I have written about this before in the HBD. Maybe I should write a book on improved mashing techniques. Now that's and idea! Quality? Even the reduced-time techniques I use will yield high-quality brew. Maybe I'm prejudiced, but I enjoy my beers better than practically anything I can buy. Many of my friends have said the same thing. Although this may have more to do with kegging than anything else! So if you have been hesitating to go all-grain because you are worried about more work, then you are worring too much! Get bold! Do it! If it doesn't agree with your lifestyle for some reason, you can always go back to extracts. But if you have my experience, you never will. Florian Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 16:50:37 EDT From: sterling at durin.umcs.maine.edu (Sterling Udell) Subject: Stuck ferment? Matt (mb at Princeton.EDU) writes: . . . >morning there was about a 1 inch head of krausen (sp?) on top. A few >minutes after closing it, I heard the plastic lid flex and then it >started bubbling away again for a few minutes before stopping. Could I must confess that I'm interested in this thread as well. I still use plastic primaries, and a number of times recently I've had an obviously active fermentation confound me by blowing _no_ bubbles through the f-lock. Fortunately, when using a secondary as well it makes little difference to me; I just rack it when the krauesen's fallen. I just assumed that I was getting a little leakage at the border of the bucket and lid, but this didn't seem entirely right either, as I could make the f-lock bubble by pressing down in the middle of the lid. In true homebrewer style, though, I relaxed and didn't worry about it. I'm still curious about it, however. Has anyone else seen this before? Specificaly to Matt: Your fermentation probably isn't stuck, especially if you have krauesen. If you're using a secondary, rack when the krauesen goes down as usual. If not, wait'll the foam goes away, take a gravity reading, and gauge bottling time accordingly. String Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 15:38:01 PDT From: ALTIMARI at FOLSM3.intel.com Subject: Reply to "Stuck Ferment?" Matt writes as follows: > Date: Mon, 13 Apr 92 12:23:11 -0400 > From: Matthias Blumrich <mb at Princeton.EDU> > Subject: Stuck ferment? > I brewed a pale ale using M&F extra light extract and Whitbread ale > yeast Saturday night and have it in a 7 gallon plastic primary with a > blowoff tube. By last night the ferment appeared to be stuck because > there was no more bubbling in the blowoff. When I opened it this > morning there was about a 1 inch head of krausen (sp?) on top. A few > minutes after closing it, I heard the plastic lid flex and then it > started bubbling away again for a few minutes before stopping. Could > it be that the pressure flexes the lid and breaks the seal, and the CO2 > is escaping from the sides? Note that there is a lot of pressure > inside because if I just press down lightly anywhere I get bubbles. > Could it be that I didn't aerate it enough? If so, what can I do? Any > help is appreciated. > - Matt - I used to see this when I was using the 7 gallon plastic primary buckets supplied with so many starter kits. What I found was that I did have active fermentation occuring (as evident by the krausen) but that the seal of the top to the fermenter was faulty. I never tried to use a blowoff with these however (I have used blowoff technique exclusively with glass carboys). I always seemed to have problems maintaining a good seal, plastic is also a pain in the wort to clean and sanitize. Anyways, my two cents would to chuck the plastic fermenter and switch to glass carboys using the blowoff method. Just a thought. Steve Altimari (ALTIMARI at FOLSM3.intel.com) - ------------------------------ Return to table of contents
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 92 13:37:19 PDT From: rfozard at slipknot.pyramid.com (Bob Fozard) Subject: Simpler mashing system? I'm interested in simplifying my brewery. I wanna use my sparging bucket to mash in. It's a spigoted 6 gallon plastic bucket with a false bottom (from the bottom of a 5 gallon plastic bucket, with stainless bolts for legs, and a bunch of 3/8" holes drilled in it). I use a hand-made grain bag as an insert, with canvas for the sides and a nylon mesh for the bottom. I made an insulation blanket from a hot water heater blanket. What I would like to do is simply add grains and hot water to this, stir, let rest, and sparge. Also, for a step mash, why not start out with a stiff protein rest, then add boiling water to bring it to conversion temp, rest, and sparge? Or for a decoction, remove portions for boiling then dump them back in. It seems to me that this can easily be used for any type of mash. Anybody else doing things similar, perhaps you picnic cooler guys? I've thought about building a copper-tubing-in-picnic-cooler setup, but I get good results with this bucket, and I wouldn't have to build anything to use it as described. Do you see any problems with this? - -- rfozard at pyramid.com Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 15 Apr 92 2:20:15 EDT From: srussell at msc.cornell.edu (Stephen Russell) Subject: Brew Club E-Mail Contact Service Folks, A handful of requests in recent days makes me think it's time to repost this. I have compiled a list of e-mail contacts to homebrew clubs in the US and Canada. The purposes of the list are to (a) promote interclub activities and (b) membership recruitment, using a very rapid form of communication. So far, I have more than 100 people listed as contacts representing 69 clubs, and I've made more than 35 referrals in the past two months to people seeking information. If you are willing to be listed on this database, please send me e-mail. Include the name of your club, it's approximate location, and your full name and preferred e-mail address(es). (Wisconsin, Pittsburgh, Memphis, Kansas City, Sonoma...are you out there?) If you would like information on a particular club or clubs or just have some general questions, please feel free to drop me a line. I am happy to make referrals; that is the purpose of this list. Thanks, STEVE list of clubs with contacts as of 4/14/92 will follows.... (in alphabetical order by state/province, pretty much :-) Birmingham Brewmasters (AL) Madison Sobriety Club (AL) Tucson Homebrewers Association (AZ) Barley Bandits (Orange County, CA) Hoppy Campers (Modesto/Stanislaus County, CA) The Draught Board (East Bay, CA) Maltose Falcons Home Brewing Society (San Fernando Valley, CA) Gold Country Brewers Association (Sacramento, CA) San Andreas Malts (San Francisco, CA) Brewing Students of Harvey Mudd College (Claremont, CA) Santa Clara Valley Brewers Association (CA) The High Desert TRUBle Makers (Edwards AFB/Lancaster/Palmdale, CA) Worts of Wisdom (South Bay, CA) Deep Wort Brew Club (Colorado Springs, CO) Hop, Barley and the Alers (Boulder, CO) Mash Tongues (Fort Collins, CO) The Unfermentables (Denver, CO) Beer Brewers of Central Connecticut (Middletown-based) Underground Brewers of Connecticut (Fairfield and New Haven counties) Brewers United for Real Potables (Washington Metro Area) North Florida Brewers League (Tallahassee, FL) Brew-52s (Athens, GA) Covert Hops Society (Atlanta, GA) Heartland Homebrew Club (Grinnell, IA) Ida-Quaffers (Boise, ID) Abnormal Brewers (Association of Bloomington/Normal Brewers, IL) Chicago Beer Society Headhunters' Homebrew Club (Sugar Grove, IL near Fermi Ntl Accelerator Lab) Trubadours (Springfield, MA and vicinity) Boston Wort Processors Chesapeake Real Ale Brewers (MD) Ann Arbor Brewer's Guild (MI) Keweenaw Real Ale Enthusiasts United for Serious Experimentation in Naturally- Effervescent Refreshment Science (KRAEUSENERS) (Houghton, MI) Minnesota Brewers Association (Minneapolis/St. Paul metro area) Minnesota TimberWorts (Rochester, MN) St. Louis Brews Fish n'Brew's (Newfoundland and Labrador) Brew Free or Die! (Merrimack, NH) Bellhops (Bellcore -- Piscataway, NJ) Mid-Atlantic Sudsers and Hoppers (MASH) (New Jersey) Los Alamos Hill Hoppers (NM) Amateur Brewers of Central New York (Syracuse, NY) Homebrewers' Emergency Club (Columbia Univ. CS Department, NYC) Ithaca Brewers' Union (Ithaca, NY) New York City Homebrewers Guild Homebrewers of Staten Island (NY) Sultans of Swig (Buffalo, NY) Upstate New York Homebrewers Association (Rochester, NY) The Prairie Homebrewing Companions (Fargo, ND/Moorhead, MN) Bloatarian Brewing League (Cincinnati and Northern Kentucky) Dayton Regional Amateur Fermentation Technologists (DRAFT) (Dayton, OH) Society of Northeast Ohio Brewers (Cleveland Area) Canadian Amateur Brewers Association (Dundas, ON) Ontario: Ottawa Camra Heart of the Valley Homebrewers (Corvallis, OR) Oregon Brew Crew (Portland, OR) Homebrewers of Philadelphia and Suburbs (HOPS) Happy Valley Homebrewers (State College, PA) Palmetto State Brewers (Columbia, SC) Berry Brewers (Saskatoon, SK) SCA Brewers Guild (Bryan, TX) Malthoppers (College Station, TX) The Foam Rangers (Houston, TX) Mashtronauts (Clear Lake, TX, south of Houston/Johnson Space Center) North Texas Homebrewers Association (Dallas and northern Texas) The Back Door Brewers (Charlottesville, VA) James River Homebrewers (Richmond, VA) Brews Brothers (Seattle, WA) Society of Oshkosh Brewers (SOB's) (Oshkosh, WI) Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #864, 04/15/92