FORUM ON BEER, HOMEBREWING, AND RELATED ISSUES
		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator


Contents:
  yeast, lock (Jack Schmidling)
  RE: Ball lock vs pin lock.  (Richard Dale)
  Mega Batch - long (Jeff J. Miller)
  Keg parts / cleaning info (Al Richer)
  German recommendations (David Arnold)
  Visiting Sweden and Denmark (PIERCE)
  sterile vs. sanitary ("Brett Lindenbach")
  beechwood (florianb)
  hop plugs (Brian Bliss)
  Sparge water level / Amount of sparge water (Darren Evans-Young)
  Correction to Glass Airlock suppliers list... (Nick Cuccia)
  Re: oregon brewfest (Jeff Frane)


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----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 May 92 21:23 CDT
From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
Subject: yeast, lock


 mailx -s "yeast,lock, homebrew at hpfcmi.fc.hp.com
 
 To: Homebrew Digest
 Fm: Jack Schmidling
 
 >From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
 >Subject: yeast population
 
 
 >> all the extra stages.  I can't believe the yeast cares whether it is in a
 >> gallon of wort or an ounce.
 
 >I don't agreee with this statement.  If you pitch a wyeast packet
 into a 12 oz starter, wait one day, and then pitch to the fermenter,
 it seems to take off faster than just pitching into the fermenter
 directly, plus the extra day.
 
 I was just speaking intuitively and suggested controlled experiments to 
 corroborate the hypothesis.  I don't doubt your experience, I just can not 
 hypothesize a cause and this....
 
 >i.e., If you dilute yeast too much, they seem to slow down more
 than proportionately.
 
 ......isn't very scientific.
 
 Your experience could be the result of:
 
    Temperature variation
    Different Nutrients in starter/wort
    Barometric pressure
    Being correct in your hypothesis
 
 I am not sure why one would want to go directly from petri dish to the wort 
 because for the same amount of effort you can make dozens of slants for 
 future use.
 
 On a slightly different subject, I pure cultured a granule of Red Star 
 Champaign yeast for my dandeline wine and it worked out real well.  It was 
 down to 1.010 ten days ago when I racked it but it is still blurping every 5 
 seconds.
 
 I find it very satisfying to take a cheap dry yeast and turn it into a pure, 
 single cell culture.  It's sort of like the guy who bragged about building 
 his own maltmill for only $12.
 
 If anyone would like a re-run of my simplified yeast culturing article, I 
 will be happy to mail it out.
 
 From: Jacob Galley <gal2 at midway.uchicago.edu>
 
 >> From: arf at ddsw1.mcs.com (Jack Schmidling)
 >> Subject: CLASSIC FERMENTATION LOCK
 >
 > >One sure sign of an old salt at home brewing is the classic glass
 >>fermentation lock.  When I first started wine/beer making, there was 
 >>nothing else available, now they are scarce as hens teeth.
 
 >I think, but don't know, that Semplex of USA in Minneanapolis sells
 glass S-locks for about $5-6. Write me if you need the address, phone
 number or price.
 
 Funny you should mention Semplex.  In the 60's, they were about the only mail 
 order house in the country.  My ancient catalog lists them at at $1.29 ea or 
 3 for $3.25.  You might want to verify the price :)   They also show a fruit 
 crusher for $55 and a fruit press for $31.90.  I have been drooling over the 
 crusher at my local homebrew shop but the $250 is a bit more than I want to 
 spend.
 
 Stand-by for "MALTMILL  SR." it dices, slices, shreds, makes tons of cole 
 slaw and crushes everything from malt to apples:)
 
 >From: "Rad Equipment" <rad_equipment at rad-mac1.ucsf.EDU>
 >Subject: Milwaukee ID's
 
 >OK, I have made arrangements with a sign-maker friend (and occasional 
 Digester) Bill Stender, to make up some unique stickers to identify the 
 Electronic Brewers.
 
 Great idea.  I would hate to miss meeting any of the gang for lack of a name 
 tag.  I will be easy to find because I will probably be the only one with a 
 MALTMILL under my arm.  I plan to be there on the evening of the Homebrew 
 Expo and would love to meet you all.  Yes, even you Jeff:)
 
 js
 
 
 p.s.  Just got off the phone with Semplex.  The glass locks are still 
 available.  $5.95 ea or 3 for $16 something.  You can even specify stopper 
 size.  DARN!  There goes my thousand dollars.  I ordered three more.  Phone 
 number for plastic orders is:
 
 
                        (612) 522 0500
 
 js
 
 
 
 

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Date: Wed, 20 May 92 08:35:58 -0400
From: Richard Dale <rsd at silk.udev.cdc.com>
Subject: RE: Ball lock vs pin lock. 

I own both.  I find that the ball lock is much easier to dismantle than the pin
lock.  The ball lock fittings can be easily removed/installed from your kegs
using an ordinary deep socket.  (Some require a 12 pt socket)  It's fast and you
have good control over torque, etc...

There may be a special tool you can get for removing/installing pin-lock fittings
from/on your kegs but I don't own one or know where to order one.  I do it by
working with an open-end wrench through a handle slot,  doing the "turn your
open-end wrench over every 30 degress" technique, with the wrench wedged in
at kind of a funny angle. Not as good.  Maybe I'm doing this wrong, someone tell me.

- --
Richard Dale
rsd at silk.udev.cdc.com
(612) 482-6588

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Date: Wed, 20 May 92 9:13:39 CDT
From: jmiller at anubis.network.com (Jeff J. Miller)
Subject: Mega Batch - long

Sorry this is so long but I'm a wordy person I guess :)

Congrats Warren and welcome to the world of Mega BREW!  I cook in
an old piece of dairy equipment that is a little larger (60 capacity)
so perhaps some of my experiences might help.

>	This is it, my brew buddy and I are ready to take the plunge into
> some larger batches, we have aquired a nice 40-45 gal. stainless steel vat 
> from a nearby dairy, even has a stirring wand in it !!

The stirring wand sounds like a great addition.  The big problem with
large batches is getting all that mass up to temp.  Constant stiring
is a requirement to avoid excessive heat spots (burn wort!).

> We have a nice pump
> to help do the sparge and as of this moment we have four 10 gal. milk cans
> to be used for something ??  We also have a Creole Cook'r and a 100lb. 
> propane tank.

I hope this pot has a spigot on it.  The pump would probably be a hassle
if you had to lift the wort out of the pot but this is just an opinion,
try it and find out.  Seriously, if the pump will work for you it should
make life LOTS easier.  Without the pump you will end up with lots of
intermittent carrying and holding containers.  The milk cans might work
for this but I would bet that 10 gals will be too heavy for you to deal
with over a long brew day.  Perhaps the cans might work for fermenters
that you can siphon out of (put them high when you start ferment so you
don't need to move them later).  When heating your pot, check for hot
spots and be careful of burns.  My pot is insulated with fire brick but
because its been around the block so many times the brick is in a sorry
state and this causes hot spots in odd locations; I have been burned
more then once by these hot spots.

> So I would really like some input from all of you on how 
> much grain, hops and so forth we would need for a batch of this size.
>	As of now we are still doing 5 gal. batches, so we use 1.33 qts.
> of water per lb. of grain, if we use 10 lbs. of grain we mash with approx. 
> 11 qts. and use around 5 gals. of water to sparge with. So if we want to make
> 30 gals. of beer do we just use 6 times as much of everything ??

Yup!  About the only things that won't scale up real weel is hops.  I'm
a hop head and I notice that for a 20 gal brew I hop at about 3/4 the rate
I do for a 5 gal brew.

You may want to watch the thickness of the mash also.  When I mash I
usually use much more water then most so I'm not sure how yours will
scale up.  The important thing is that 60 pounds of malt is a lot!

> Any ideas on how to crush the grain ??  We've got some cleaning to do
> so we probably won't
> try it for another couple of weeks or so. Any suggestions would be greatly
> appreciated !!  I can honestly say I've never REALLY worried about any of 
> the 5 gal. batches before, but I am getting a tad worried about 30 gals. of
> brew, I'm sure once I see and smell 30 gals. of black as night stout, I WILL
> relax :*)

You NEED a motorized grain mill (Jack can probably help).  Some suppliers
will mill for you but if you walk into your average homebrew shop and ask
for 60# of milled grain I doubt that you will get a very good reaction.
A nice kicker is that when you buy this much grain at one time you do
get some nice price breaks.

Something you should think about is how your going to get all that grain
out of the pot (I'm assuming your mashing and boiling in the same pot).
If you need to sparge off the grain and hold the wort until you shovel
the grain out of the pot you are going to need lots of holding vessels
and you will add a significant amount of time to the brew.  Grain bags
are nice but you need a whole lot of them for 60# and I'm not sure how
they would work with the stiring mechanism.  I currently use a stainless
mesh bucket that fits inside the kettle.  When the mash is complete I
lift it out and sparge through it.  This works great but I am still
working on ways to get better efficiency.  Do you have cattle around?
Getting rid of 60# of grain will be an experience.  You can compost
it but you better have a big pile if your going to brew more then
a few times a summer.

Fermenting this much beer is interresting.  If you do this indoors,
watch for excessive CO2.  You may want to open a window at the peek
of fermentation just to air out.  I think fermentation in a single
vessle is the way to go.  I use a barrel but I think a garbage can
would be easier.  Planning is the key; put the fermenter where you
can siphon out of it without moving it.  It is damn difficult to
move 40 gal of beer.  Oh yea, when I first got my cooker I used to
use it as a fermenter also.  It has a lid but it is not an air seal.
This worked great until I got an infection; I don't ferment in it
anymore.

If you don't have one yet, get a kegging system!  I always like to
1/2 a batch in bottles and 1/2 in kegs.  Sure makes bottleing day
go faster.

If you don't have a chiller - get/make one.

Be VERY careful about infection.  Loseing 5 gallons is a bummer but
it really hurts on a big brew.

First batch:  I would suggest starting with an extract batch in the
10 to 20 gallon range.  This will get you used to the amount of water
that your going to be using as well as get you used to some of the
logistics of using this thing.  After doing a brew like this you
will get a better feeling for time frames, hop rates, and all sorts
of things that you never thought of.  After you conquer these problems
then you can add grain and feel like your starting the learning curve
all over.  Get a stick or some other measuring device.  It is very
difficult to look in a large pot and know within even 5 gallons
how much is in there.

>	Yes I can hear it now :
>
>              Me:  How many pounds of Northern Brewer do you have ??
>
>Homebrew Supply :  Do you mean pounds or ounces ??
>
>	      Me:  You heard me right, I mean pounds !!
>
>Homebrew Supply :  Uh, okay, let me check !!
>
>	      Me:  Great, you don't happen to have a pallet of grain !!

Grow your own hops!  If you can get bulk extract/grains from suppliers
your costs will be greatly reduced.  The only thing I can't get cheap
from suppliers is hops.  Since you have allready figured out that your
going to be using pounds instead of ounces, growing your own is about
the only way to brew and keep costs in check.

You might be able to check bakery suppliers for a source of bulk
extract.  If you happen to have a malster around you can sometimes
bring them 5 gallon buckets and some homebrew and get a great deal.
Or... you could join/start a club and supply most of the need for
a true pallet of grain purchase  :)

Good luck!

- -- 
Jeff Miller                 Network Systems Corporation
Internetwork Group          7600 Boone Avenue North
jmiller at network.com         Minneapolis MN 55428   (612)424-4888

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Date:         Wed, 20 May 92 09:07:36 MST
From: CITJLF at ARIZVM1.ccit.arizona.edu

I FINALLY RECEIVED THE MARGA MULINO GRAIN MILL AS A WEDDING PRESENT
AND USED IT FOR THE FIRST TIME A FEW WEEKS AGO. I AM QUITE IMPRESSED
BY THE QUALITY OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE MILL AND WITH THE WAY THE
THE GRAIN WAS CRUSHED WITHOUT CREATING ANY FLOUR. MY ONLY PROBLEM
WITH THE UNIT WAS THAT I HAD TO KEEP A FINGER IN THE HOPPER CONSTANTLY
SWIRLING THE GRAINS OR ELSE THE GRAINS WOULD EVENTUALLY SETTLE IN
OVER THE HOLE IN THE BOTTOM OF THE HOPPER AND NOT FEED THROUGH. MAYBE
I NEED TO ENLARGE THE HOLE. ALSO THE HOPPER AND CATCH BASIN ARE VERY
SMALL. IF ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE HAS ANY EXPERIENCE WITH THIS MILL,
EMAIL ME WITH YOUR SOLUTIONS.

BECAUSE THE GRAINS WERE PROPERLY CRUSHED WITHOUT ANY FLOUR( MY CORONA
MILL WOULD ALWAYS GIVE ME LOTS OF FLOUR) MY SPARGING IMPROVED SIGNIF-
ICANTLY BY GIVING ME A HIGHER STARTING SPECIFIC GRAVITY AND FOR ONCE
MY SPARGING RAN CLEAR AFTER ONLY TWO RUN THROUGHS.

I BOUGHT MY MILL FROM TABLE TALK HERE IN TUCSON FOR $69.00. THEIR
PHONE IS 602-293-7139.

ABOUT A MONTH AGO I ORDERED A STARTER KIT FROM THE YEAST CULTURE CO.
I HAVE ALWAYS BEEN AFRAID OF THE COMPLEXITY AND SANITATION REQUIRE-
MENTS OF YEAST CULTURING. WELL FEAR NO MORE! THE PRE-PREPARED KIT
MAKES CULTURING A BREEZE AND I HAVE EVEN CULTURED TWO OF WYEASTS
ALE STRAINS SO THAT I DON'T NEED TO BUY THEM ANYMORE. MY LAST BATCH
OF ALE WAS PITCHED WITH A STARTER THAT WAS CULTURED FROM ONE OF MY
PETRI DISHES. IT TOOK OFF LIKE A BAT OUT OF HELL AND FERMENTED
STEADILY FOR 5 DAYS WITH A HEAD OF YEAST FOAM 8 INCHES THICK. ONLY
A FEW MORE DAYS UNTIL I CAN ENJOY MY FIRST CULTURED FROM SCRATCH
BATCH. THE YEAST CULTURE KIT CO. CAN BE REACHED AT 1-800-742-2110
6 TO 8PM EST.

MAY YOUR BEER ALWAYS GIVE YOU LOTS OF HEAD!

JOHN FRANCISCO CITJLF at ARIZVM1.CCIT.ARIZONA.EDU

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Date: Wed, 20 May 92 10:00:49 EDT
From: richer at ionic.HQ.Ileaf.COM (Al Richer)
Subject: Keg parts / cleaning info




 Greetings!

  have recently stumbled over a complete kegging outfit (for $10. in a flea
market!! 2 kegs, a 2-regulator rig with a 20-pound cylinder, and all the hoses 
and fittings.. drool on, envious rabble...8*)..). 
Unfortunately, neither keg is a standard type, and the gaskets in
both are terminally root-beer contaminated. Has anyone got any suggestions as
to where I might obtain replacemt gaskets? Both have twist-on lids, one in 1
piece, one in two, an inner lid wth an external lock ring, if this helps to
identify them.

 One is also missing a pickup tube.I can easily fabricate one from hard copper
tubing, but I'm a little concerned about the long-term effects of copper contact
with an acid medium like beer. Any opinions?

Finally, this rig came with a refrigerated 4-tap dispenser made by Cornelius,
which was used for carbonating and dispensing premixed fountain drinks. Does
anyone have any suggestions as to a good cleaner to pump through the feed lines
to clear them of the old soda residue? They're stainless-steel and wire
reinforced plastic, so it seems like I could get away with running something
fairly strong through them with little fear. I don't want to use chlorine,
though, as I've heard bad things about it in contact with SS.

  I await your opinions with bated breath.

	Email or post would be good for this, as it seems like it would be
	of general interest.

						Until later,

						   ajr

- -- 
_________________________________________________________
 Alan J. Richer              Mail:  richer at hq.ileaf.com
 Interleaf, Inc.             All std. disclaimers apply 			
 9 Hillside Ave.                  Your mileage may vary 



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Date: Wed, 20 May 92 12:38:21 -0400
From: David Arnold <davida at anagram.umd.edu>
Subject: German recommendations

I have a friend going to Germany for three weeks soon, and was
wondering if some of you kind souls would be so kind as to suggest:

    1) What beer(s) to check out,
    2) Interesting pubs, etc. to try

He's going to be in/near Reganburg (Regansburg?), if that helps
some of you.

Also, I'm having him bring back beer for me.  My tastes run from
a good lager to medium ales and bocks.  Can anyone suggest beers he
might try to bring home?

He may also be taking a trip to Amsterdam while he's over there;
any suggestions for him while he's there?

If you post back, please respond via e-mail as well, as I need the
responses soon.

Thanks in advance,
David Arnold

Inet:   davida at syrinx.umd.edu
Bitnet: davida%syrinx.umd.edu at cunyvm
UUCP:   uunet!syrinx.umd.edu!davida
NeXTmail: davida at anagram.umd.edu

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Date: Wed, 20 May 1992 10:17 PDT
From: PIERCE%GONZAGA.BITNET at CORNELLC.cit.cornell.edu
Subject: Visiting Sweden and Denmark

I will be going to Sweden for a few weeks next month and want to make sure
that I don't miss any beer/brewing highlights (if there are any).  I have
done some reading and it doesn't look promising, but if anyone has any
suggestions for places to go in Stockholm or northern Sweden I would love
to hear about them.  We will also be in Copenhagen for a couple of days and
could use some suggestions for there also.

Thanks for the help.

Linda Pierce

***insert standard disclaimer - here - ***

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Date: 20 May 1992 12:39:25 -0600
From: "Brett Lindenbach" <Brett_Lindenbach at qms1.life.uiuc.edu>
Subject: sterile vs. sanitary

                       Subject:                              
Time:12:05 PM
  OFFICE MEMO          sterile vs. sanitary                  
Date:5/20/92
After my last post regarding the importance of scaling up starters, I
received a rash of letters with regards to the following statement:

> most homebrewers do not sterilize, but only sanitize their wort
 through boiling.

For instance, someone wrote:

>I would have said that an hour's boil at something slightly above 100C
would be sufficient to sterilize the wort; it's all the other tools
that
are merely sanitized....

I would like a chance to comment and hopefully clear up any mis-
conceptions out there. The argument begins with semantics: the
definition 
of sterility is the *complete* destruction of all living organisms. 
ie there is no such thing as "partial sterility," it is an
all-or-nothing
thing. Anything less is considered to be sanitized, which can be
measured
in degrees. While sterility may seem like an impossible ideal, it is
a goal that can be reached. The two main factors are temperature and
exposure time. A guy named Bigelow once studied this topic, and came up
with the idea of Thermal Death Time, the shortest period of time
required to kill a known microorganism at a specific time. He then went
about calculating various TDT's. What he found is at 100C (Chip-I don't
know
about you, but my water boils at this temp (although I realize altitude
and
[sugar] will affect this, but usually lowering it)), it takes 788 to
834 minutes (average) to insure destruction of 15 typical thermophiles.
I sure hope nobody boils their wort this long! How do microorganisms do
this? Spores!
Anyways, the long and short of it is that the longer you boil, the
closer
to sterile you approach, but please do not confuse the two. 
Why am I such a stickler? I hope that through brewing, people can
better
appreciate the biology behind it all. Cheers! -BDL

(brett_lindenbach.microbiology at qms1.life.uiuc.edu)



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Date: Wed, 20 May 92 13:34:50 CDT
From: gjfix at utamat.uta.edu (George J Fix)

 Subject: Review of Brewers Resource Yeast Kit ( George Fix )

I have long tried to get producers of yeast to come up with an inexpensive,
self-contained, user friendly kit for yeast culturing using the classic
Hansen procedures. Up to now these appeals have fallen on deaf ears. Happily,
a company called Brewers Resource ( phone= 818-887-3282) has just introduced
such a kit. Since this is going to be a highly favorable review, let me state
at the outset that I have no connection with this company nor this product.

The designer of the kit is Dr. Maribeth Raines, a professor of microbiology
at UCLA. She has had a distinguished research career, and this kit clearly
shows that she has a strong affinity for practical yeast work as well.

The kit is self-contained except for a few minor items that can be obtained
from a local drugstore. Brewers are also given a lot of options with respect
to yeast strains. The kit comes with a booklet written by Dr. Raines. It gives
clear, complete, and easy to follow instructions on exactly how the kit is to
be used. In preparing yeast for a batch to test the kit, I did not use any of
my normal equipment ( autoclave, transfer box, etc. ), but instead did the
work exactly as the booklet describes in my kitchen. This batch is now in ruhr
storage. I plan to bottle it in time to bring some to Milwaukee. The yeast
itself has been repitched, and will be repitched a third time this weekend.
I have used every test known to me for checking yeast ( my presentation
in Milwaukee will deal with these procedures ), and in every case the 
yeast came through with flying colors. It would be risky to call any set of
procedures associated with yeast as "foolproof", however this kit comes as
close to this mark as we are likely to get.

Elementary and intermediate are strongly urged to take a shot at yeast 
management using this kit. It is in every sense user friendly. Advanced brewers
will also find much of interest here. Of special interest are Dr. Raines'
nutrient media, and the yeast slants as well.

There are other options in this kit. These include petri dishes
containing special media suitable for culturing yeast from bottle conditioned
beers. All of this media is proprietary, and was developed by Dr. Raines in
her reseach lab with beer yeast in mind. Dr. Raines booklet has a clear and
complete discussion of how culture yeast from bottles, and related topics.

I hesitate to call this kit definitive, but frankly I can not thing of a single
way it could be improved. It has the potential of introducing a new era in
homebrewing, that will affect all brewers, be they working with advanced
equipment or with elementary extract systems.


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Date: Wed, 20 May 92 13:03:37 PDT
From: florianb at chip.cna.tek.com
Subject: beechwood

Yesterday, we get the message from jay marshall:

?The A-B Asst. Brewmeister that came to our brewclub meeting told us
>that the beechwood chips are used to provide more surface area for
>the yeast.  He didn't mention anything about fining.  We are going on

Surface area for the yeast? The yeast are in suspension! And I suppose
that if you ferment in a closed container with cracked corn you will
get mice by spontaneous generation!

Was this guy an assistant brewmeister or an assistant public relations rep? 

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Date: Wed, 20 May 92 17:02:31 CDT
From: bliss at csrd.uiuc.edu (Brian Bliss)
Subject: hop plugs


> I am considering switching from pellets to plugs, and I have a
> couple of questions.
> I have heard that plugs are superior to pellets with regard to
> aromatic qualities, that they are close to whole hops in this
> regard. True or false?
> What is the relative utilization rate of plugs versus pellets?
> I know pellets yield a slightly higher utilization rate than
> whole hops, because they are more resistant to oxidation.
> Where do plugs fit in this picture?

Hops plugs are compressed enough that they have a longer shelf life
than loose leaf hops, presumably on par with pellets.  They have
not undergone the processing that pellets have (does this processing
affect the aromatic quality of pellets?), and therefore are on par
with loose leaf hops as far as boiling time/utilization goes
(hop pellets break up more easily, and do not require as long of a
boil as leaf hops to extract the same amount of flavor/bitterness).

Break up the plugs before you add them to the boil.  They will not clog
your strainer when you try to remove them, nor will they leave a bunch
of gunk in the wort, an advantage over pellets.  In short, they have all
the advantages of loose leaf hops (and the disadvantage of a longer boiling
time, but you should always boil at least an hour anyway), but with the
shelf life of pellets.

They are also conveniently pressed into 1/2 oz. plugs (at least those
I could find were) for easy measurment.  I highly recommend them.
Unfortunately, I can't find them anymore.

bb


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Date:         Wed, 20 May 92 18:25:10 CDT
From: Darren Evans-Young <DARREN at ua1vm.ua.edu>
Subject:      Sparge water level / Amount of sparge water

First, a thanks to all those who responded to my queries.

Sparge water level:

The consensus on sparge water level is 1-2" above the grain bed
to "float" the bed and keep it from settling/compacting and the
water from channeling.  I use a Listermann sparger (and love it).

Amount of sparge water:

When I started all-grain, I went by Millers recommendation of 1.33 qts/lb.
Then I started reading about various brewers using only 1 qt/lb to keep
from diluting the enzymes.  I now use 1 qt/lb.  I was rounding to the
nearest gallon in my previous post when I said I would use 4 gallons for
15 lbs of grain. I would use 15 qts for 15 lbs for mashing.

In general:

My last all-grain batch, I used a thick mash of 1 qt/lb.  My pH after
doughing in the grains was still 4.6-4.8. This time I didnt NOT add CaCO3
to adjust the pH since it didnt have much affect anyway. I thought it might
actually interfere with conversion.  I also sparged a LOT slower...a little
above a trickle.  Took about an hour to sparge 8 lbs of grain with 5 gallons
of water keeping the water level 1-2" above the grain bed. The result?
My efficiency went from a consistent 75% to 82-83%!!!  I was shooting for
a gravity of 1.044 (which I could consistently achieve), but instead got
a final OG 1.053.  Main points: RUN YOUR SPARGES SLOW!!! I think this was
the main enhancement of my procedures. Still pondering the pH adjustment.
But, hey, if it ain't broke, don't fix it!

Darren

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Date: Wed, 20 May 92 23:22:56 -0700
From: Nick Cuccia <cuccia at eris.berkeley.edu>
Subject: Correction to Glass Airlock suppliers list...

It was pointed out to me that the phone number that I gave for Barleymalt and
Vine was shy a digit.  The phone number for B&V is:

	+1 800 666 7026

Enjoying an Aass Bock after an Aass Bockwards kind of day,
- --Nick

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Date: Tue, 19 May 92 11:22:07 PDT
From: gummitch at techbook.com (Jeff Frane)
Subject: Re: oregon brewfest

> 
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I read your post in the homebrew digest directing volunteers to someone named
> Doug.  I can't get the email adress you gave to work.  Are there any
> alternate spellings for us folks on arpa?
> 
> -Steve
> 
> sp2q at andrew.cmu.edu
> 
Just talked to Doug Henderson on the telephone (a wonderful device) and
got his corrected address:

doug at techbook.com

Contact him about the Oregon Brewers' Festival, if you're interested in
volunteering.

- --Jeff Frane



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End of HOMEBREW Digest #886, 05/21/92