HOMEBREW Digest #900 Thu 11 June 1992

Digest #899 Digest #901

		Rob Gardner, Digest Coordinator

  Mildew (gkushmer)
  Evil water jugs;  supplies in Boston area ("Roger Deschner  ")
  Celebrator (Stuart W. Pitner)
  fresh yeast! ("Spencer W. Thomas")
  Re:  Homebrew Digest #884 (May 19, 1992) (pmiller)
  berries and chlorine (steve porter)
  Brewing in Plasitc Water Jugs (GEOFF REEVES)
  Re: Homebrew Digest #899 (June 10, 1992) (Tom Hoff)
  RE: Evil water jugs (Homebrew Digest #899, June 10, 1992) (Darryl Richman)
  dry hopping rates (Sean J. Caron)
  Thumper blues (CCASTELL)
  growth curve ("Brett Lindenbach")

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---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 8:26:45 EDT From: gkushmer at Jade.Tufts.EDU Subject: Mildew Hello everyone, I've a question on airborne nasties: Starting next week, I'm moving into another house. This house has a basement that stays cool all through the summer (or so I've been told by the current occupants) so that I can make ale without needing to worry about heat. BUT (there's always a hitch) the basement floods on occassion meaning that it can be very humid. Because of that, there is an ongoing battle against mildew and mold. My question is - how safe would it be to put a carboy in the basement with an airlock? My initial impression is that the carboy with an airlock would be a sealed environment. However, the mildew and mold spores are everywhere. When I go to bottle/keg or generally open the carboy for readings, don't I risk airborne contamination? Advice/suggestions will be most appreciated! - --gk (gkushmer at jade.tufts.edu) ------------------- | 5,397 miles | | - to - | THE FIRST AMENDMENT states that members of re- | WALL DRUG | ligious groups, no matter how small or unpopular, | | shall have the right to hassle you in airports |WALL, SOUTH DAKOTA | | U.S.A. | -Dave Barry- ------------------- **Sign In Amsterdam** Return to table of contents
Date: 10 June 1992 09:25:00 CDT From: "Roger Deschner " <U52983 at UICVM.UIC.EDU> Subject: Evil water jugs; supplies in Boston area The plastic water jugs are made of PETE, a modern polymer. The problem is not that the beer can do ANYTHING to it - in fact, PETE plastic was designed to resist almost anything you could put into it. The problem is that, in the cleaning process, there will always be microscopic scratches, which will harbor miniscule residues of wort and bacteria, and which can easily infect your SECOND batch made in the jug. The same problem can affect any plastic equipment, especially the plastic tubs (made of softer HDPE plastic) which are common in homebrew starter kits. This is also a reason to periodically replace your plastic hoses. Glass does not scratch like plastic, and is therefore more easily sanitized. You'll just have to put up with its weight, cost, and the possibility of breakage, but these are manageable issues. In the Boston area, I recommend THE MODERN BREWER in Cambridge. Phone number is 1-800-SEND-ALE. (catchy, eh?) Even though I'm in Chicago, I buy from them by mail order. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 10:39:41 EDT From: spitner at tso.uc.EDU (Stuart W. Pitner) Subject: Celebrator Hello fellow brewers! Can anyone out there provide a recipe for Celebrator Dopplebock? (or a facsimile thereof?) Stuart Pitner spitner at tso.uc.edu Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 11:30:31 EDT From: "Spencer W. Thomas" <Spencer.W.Thomas at med.umich.edu> Subject: fresh yeast! This weekend I went to my supplier to buy stuff (including yeast). He had a new shipment of Wyeast just in. I bought a packet of 1007 (German Ale) dated June 3. It was fully puffed within 6 hours of breaking the inner packet! Lag time? What lag time??? =Spencer W. Thomas HSITN, U of Michigan, Ann Arbor, MI 48109 spencer.thomas at med.umich.edu 313-747-2778 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 10:37:27 CDT From: pmiller at mmm.com Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #884 (May 19, 1992) Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 09:59:52 CST From: steve porter <PORTERSC at MAX.CC.UREGINA.CA> Subject: berries and chlorine Good'day fellow brewers; I have been brewing beer for over a year now and have finally decided to get a bit more adventursome. In some of the Beer guides that I've read there is mention of adding fruit to beer, especially the likes of raspberries, blueberries (here in the great white north we have another berry called saskatoons, very much like a blueberry but tarter), straw- berries, chokecherries etc. So I would ask that anyone having recipes or knowledge of such a method of beer making to send me some information. I will submit a compilation of info and recipes. As I sometimes do not have time to read every issue of HBD personal messages would be appreciated at bitnet: portersc at uregina1 Another question that has had me wondering for some time is sterilization at present I am using the Hydrogen Metabisulphite recommended by the local brewstore. However, I have read of using simple bleach. Has anyone out there done this? If so what strengths of bleach! Rinse after!! I read the discussion a few digests ago on the diff between sterilized and sanitized but I don't believe I saw any mention of the use of bleach. Let me know if I'm wrong. Again please send responses to my personal address. Thanx, Steve Bitnet: portersc at uregina1 Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 10:17:26 -0600 From: 105277 at essdp2.lanl.gov (GEOFF REEVES) Subject: Brewing in Plasitc Water Jugs I guess I can claim to be something of an authority on this subject. I brewed 50 batches of beer this way. The first thing I would say is don't worry about toxicity too much. I'm not dead yet :-) The second thing I would say is don't do it. The big problem is sanitization. In our first 50 batches my brewing partner and I had quite a few contamination problems. Some of this stems from the fact that we had inadaquate knowledge about sanitization. For example we tried to sterilize with sodium metabisulfate which isn't the best thing to use. We also never sterilized the water jugs before using them figuring that they'd only been exposed to pure water. Of course this isn't really true. Sure some of the water was purified by reverse osmosis but some of it was just spring water. Even the purified stuff doesn't guerentee that the jug was clean before the water was put in it. You can probably use these jugs without infection if you treat them with bleach water and don't re-use them but I wouldn't count on it. Glass is much more reliable. Another problem is that the jugs aren't that sturdy. You haven't lived until a full one has rolled off the counter on a warm day and exploded all over your kitchen or laundry room! If you really want to make small batches that will fit in your refridgerator why don't you use 1 gallon apple juice bottles or something? You might even be able to find a 2-3 gallon bottle somewhere. Finally, why are you worried about Mountain View water? I brewed in Menlo Park and the water was pretty good for brewing and great for drinking. Does Mountain View get Santa Clara well water instead of Hech Hechy (sp) reservoir water? See Ya Geoff Reeves Atomic City Ales Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 9:29:46 PDT From: Tom Hoff <hoff at sdd.hp.com> Subject: Re: Homebrew Digest #899 (June 10, 1992) Please delete me from this mailing list. Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 09:49:47 PDT From: Darryl Richman <darrylri at microsoft.com> Subject: RE: Evil water jugs (Homebrew Digest #899, June 10, 1992) tpm%wdl58 at wdl1.wdl.loral.com (Tim P McNerney) writes: > I have had a number of replies to my posting yesterday warning of the > danger of using the plastic water jugs for fermentation. I had heard > these also (which is why I asked about it), but I haven't received > any information more specific than that it was bad. Although I can't tell you specifically about the 2 gallon water bottles you are buying, I can tell you that there is a strongly held prejudice against any form of plastic in the homebrewing world. The things to be aware of: * Many plastics are much more permeable to oxygen than glass * Non-food grade plastics may be made with plasticizers that can be leached out by ethanol, and besides what these may do to you after years of imbibing, they can taste pretty bad. * Plastic scratches easily, and those scratches can harbor infectious organisms. It may therefore, be difficult to santize with contact sanitizers like iodophor, b-brite and bleach. Ignore the AHA statistic that indicates that glass is over represented and plastic is under represented in the winners circle. Although true, this does not necessarily mean anything about the qualities of glass and plastic. I use a food grade trash can for my primary and 5 gallon plastic water bottles (made from polycarbonate, which is safe from attack by ethanol, although it is somewhat oxygen permeable) for secondaries. I sanitize with boiling water, which doesn't need direct contact to work (the heat will get the little suckers), and doesn't need any kind of a rinse afterwards, either. Glass is a good way to go, and I do use it for starters (although I just acquired a plastic baby bottle that I can pour boiling wort into and allow to cool). But it can be dangerous to handle in wet and slippery environments, and the chemicals used to sanitize can be difficult to remove without compromising the sanitization. My advice is to choose a method that fits in with what you want to do and then work to eliminate any problems that occur in your environment. Good luck, and good brewing, --Darryl Richman Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 17:12:47 EDT From: Sean J. Caron <CARONS at TBOSCH.dnet.ge.com> Subject: dry hopping rates Ok, you dry-hoppers (YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE): I'm bitting the dry-hop bullet. Sign me up, i want that awesome dry-hopped aroma. I ordered the ingredients for my latest batch and ordered a package of Hersbrucker compressed hop plugs. I brewed up my batch last night as follows: 6lb Laaglander extra-pale DME 1lb corn sugar .5oz fuggles pellets a=4.0 (begging of boil) .5oz Willemette leaf a=4.2 ( at 20 minutes) .5oz " " " ( at 40 minutes) #1056 - American Ale OG = 1.060 The boil was a full 6 gallons (in my shiny new 10gal ss brewkettle! ;-), yeilding 5 gallons after the boil. It's merrily fermenting away in the primary now. So how much of the Hersbrucker (a = 2.6) do i throw in the secondary? Is there some rule-of-thumb for amount of malt (SG?), amount of bittering hops, and amount and/or alpha of the dryhop being used? Or is it as simple as just throw in 1oz at transfer to secondary? thanks! sean Return to table of contents
Date: Wed, 10 Jun 92 13:19 From: sherpa2!CCASTELL.ELDEC%mailsrv2 at sunup.West.Sun.COM (CCASTELL) Subject: Thumper blues In partial reponse to Russ Gelinas' question: The 1989 CAMRA Good Beer Guide states that "Old Thumper" has an original gravity of 1058 and describes it as a "well-hopped strong bitter". (These one line descriptions leave a lot to the imagination!) Return to table of contents
Date: 10 Jun 1992 17:56:46 -0600 From: "Brett Lindenbach" <Brett_Lindenbach at qms1.life.uiuc.edu> Subject: growth curve Subject: Time:5:55 PM OFFICE MEMO growth curve Date:6/10/92 John Cotterill asks: >Whenever I use Wyeast, I prepare a 12oz starter. Timing when to pitch a >starter has always been a mystery to me. The general recommendation is >to pitch at high krauesen. The trouble is determining when high krauesen >occurs. With my starters, I am lucky to get 1/8 inch of foam on top, and >that is a best case! What sort of krauesen do you get, and at what point >do you pitch the starter? John, the idea behind this is that you want to pitch when the yeast are most active. Here's a quicky on how yeast (and other microorganisms) grow (usually): (monospace) # | | --------- C | +++ E | ++ L | + L | + S | + | ++ |===== ---------------------------- TIME = lag phase + log phase - stationary phase High krausen will occur during mid- to late-log phase, evidenced by the healthy head. During this period, the yeast is gorging on all that nice sugar, and dividing rapidly. Consequently, it will be able to take over the wort very quickly. Thus, the yeast will be happy, and risk of infection minimized. Happy brewing! :BDL Return to table of contents
End of HOMEBREW Digest #900, 06/11/92